Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Nose no limits

Total Reviews: 39

Kalemat by Arabian Oud

Soft syrupy sweet woodsy base with a bitter green, balsamic herbsy top. And apple skins / hookah pipe? Very eclectic. Top and bottom are chalk and cheese, and donít play nicely - like a freshly baked flapjack with crushed fresh basil leaves on it. Itís just a bit odd...
25th March, 2019

Floriental by Comme des GarÁons

This is a bit of a car crash - light pot pouri florals with a harsh vetiver and a resinous, balsamy undertone. I donít get any sandalwood or plum, which might have helped smooth things out, but more than likely would have clashed even more and made it worse.

Just too many juxtaposed strong elements that conflict rather compliment each other.
11th March, 2019

Apsu by Ulrich Lang

Unripe melon and tabouleh - all very green and fresh, and balanced between sweet and savoury. Limited projection but comes with the territory.
06th March, 2019
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Jubilation XXV by Amouage

Iím not sure Iíve fully understood this one yet. Itís certainly a warm complex fragrance - incense, honey and florals (and for once the incense is nicely balanced and not shouting over everything else). All in all very pleasant, but it doesnít blow my socks off like some Ďmasterpiecesí. One to keep working on...

Update: iím glad I persevered with this - itís wonderfully complex - notes subtly emerge and drift away, and each time I wear this I get something new and interesting. For me, itís not a Ďgoing outí fragrance, thatís a number 1 in any particular situation - in an evening itís unlikely to attract or get the attention it deserves. Itís more of a Ďlong-term-relationship fragranceí where projecting an image or grabbing attention isnít important, and itís more about the enjoying the company of something with different moods - complex, subtle and nuanced.

If most other fragrances are an evening in the club or st a black-tie dinner, or a day by the sea or in the citrus grove etc etc, this one is more like an affair with an older man/woman. It operates on a different timescale and a different experience-level.
05th March, 2019 (last edited: 16th March, 2019)

Framboise Noire by Shay & Blue

Interesting. Like a fruitier Jubilation xxv. A big oud opening but then goes lighter and even a bit soapy. Less complex than the Amouage and Iím not sure if thatís a good thing - musky ouds are a bit all in or not at all. Definitely pleasant - just a bit in no-manís-land.
05th March, 2019

Vťtiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne

A bright fresh vetiver with a faint hint of plum. Simple. Clean. Interesting. Original. A perfect office grab and go.
05th March, 2019

Plum Japonais by Tom Ford

Absolute perfection. A warm sophisticated mulled-plum. Well balanced with other notes - not too sweet. Just spicy enough to be interesting but not Christmassy. The florals a brightness and complexity too. I thought it might be too feminine but itís not at all. Itís similar to Tom Ford Extreme but with the booze, woods and spices dialled down, and the plum dialled up. The best plum fragrance Iíve smelled by far.
05th March, 2019

Eau de Citron Noir by HermŤs

A nice fresh lemon peel/rind. To me it doesnít smell like cleaning spray and itís not overly sweet or synthetic. I agree with other reviewers that itís very linear with no smokey depth or the tea I was really hoping for. It probably works well in summer but for me Sel Marin takes that spot every time - itís just more interesting, like smelling fresh citrus but at the end of a jetty with the sea spray below and the breeze making all the notes more etherial, coming and going in different combinations. It wins every time.
05th March, 2019

Lost by Miller Harris

I was hoping for a zesty earl grey tea, with a faint after-taste of blackcurrant bitter-sweetness - something refreshing but not icy cold - something clean but interesting. Citrus meets sweet meets bitter meets tart all in a slightly watery drinkable way but with just enough musk to stop it being a wash out.

Itís actually like a mild rose hand soap. The rest of the notes seem to be lost somewhere in the city.
04th March, 2019

Gold Leather by Atelier Cologne

Incense and not much else for about 8 hours. When it finally calms down it actually turns into a nice warm skin scent of plum schapps, something like turmeric (but soapy clean, not dry and dusty) plus a light leather. Actually very pleasant but no projection by this stage. And earlier on itís too much of an incense-thug for practical use.
03rd March, 2019

Hwyl by Aesop

Oh what a shame - with a name like Ďhwylí it promised so much but in the end it was a Ďhwylí disappointment (sorry - 'real'!)

The opening is amazing - a mysterious and brooding fug of smokey earth with a bit of conifer (so far so good).

But all thatís quickly over powered by a minty medicinal vibe somewhere between stale chewing gum and Covonia cough expectorant, and the subtle conifer becomes an overpowering pine note, as if some pine-needles are stuck to some chewing gum on the bottom of someoneís shoe, and are being ground down and intensified as the person walks home from the drugstore.

Iím upset to be so down on this one - nothing particularly Ďstirringí about it at all - other than Ďstirringí together a bathroom cabinet of cough sweets, toothpaste and radix pine shower gel. Why couldnít they have just stuck with the opening...?
01st March, 2019

Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford

Another magical melange of woods, spices, florals and citruses from Tom Ford! Wonderfully softly spoken, humble and ever so slightly sweet, but with complexity and richness underneath.

Itís such a shame itís also another one that gives up after an hour or so.
01st March, 2019

Musc Impťrial by Atelier Cologne

A creamy lemony clary sage musk. More coconut-milk than fig. Definitely leans a bit feminine for my tastes. No blackcurrant. Was hoping for something a little cleaner and fruiter (without taking it too far into Ďmure et muskí territory) - shouldnít have been surprised with a name like musc imperial though.
01st March, 2019
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Tacit by Aesop

A fresh clean vetiver with a hint slight bitterness of crushed basil leaves. A quirky take on vetiver and a more interesting alternative to TF Grey Vetiver.
01st March, 2019

Tom Ford Extreme by Tom Ford

This is at another level. The long note listing doesnít really do it justice - to my nose, none of the individual notes are that indiscernable but together they create a complex fragrance with a character of its own - ever so slightly dark-fruity, with a faint tinge of peaty-whisky, but also clean and classy. Itís warm and cosy but smart at the same time. The performance isnít great (itís actually terrible!) - the scent lasts on the skin a couple of hours but has no projection after the first hour or so (and no sillage to speak of at all). Itís a real shame because the scent itself is in a class of its own.
16th February, 2019 (last edited: 18th February, 2019)

Blasted Heath by Penhaligon's

Not much about this is Ďblastedí - lightning didnít strike on this heath once, let alone twice. Thereís no smokiness, no burnt woods, no ionised air/high voltage electricity smell, no charred peat etc.. Itís just a diluted mossy-sage green fragrance thatís very wearable and inoffensive, but not particularly interesting or unique either. I definitely get similarities with Floris 1962 but with less mint.
13th February, 2019

Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Wow! This is not for the mild-mannered or straight-laced. Itís a different kind of lace altogether. The opening is bold and direct, unbuttoned, unzipped, unclipped, intense and physical. The vanilla, when it finally emerges, is sweet and gentle, caressing and soft. You almost get your breath back. But the musk keeps drawing you in, time and time again, and each time you breathe it in a little deeper, get a little closer, touch a little longer... itís still there in the morning, almost like a rich toffee fragrance, much more rounded, subtle and intimate, but thereís still only one thing on your mind...
08th February, 2019

L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo

Cold sparkling water with mint leaves, fruit peel (yuzu?) a clean wet wood like reeds or bamboo (?). No real depth or development but clean and refreshing.
08th February, 2019

Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive by Zara

Rich warm vanilla that lasts for ages. Not much tobacco and pretty linear - experimenting with layering it with other fragrances to give it a bit more depth / interest. Amazing value and very wearable.
08th February, 2019

BibliothŤque by Byredo

Sweets and not much else? Even a few hours later I just get feminine peach body spray. Was hoping for so much more...
08th February, 2019

Layton by Parfums de Marly

Very green and bitter. Patchouli and cardamom pod skins. Fruit pith without the fruitiness. Bond number 9 New Harlem with less coffee? Unpleasant.
08th February, 2019

Vťtiver Extraordinaire by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Fresh orange peel on a wooden chopping board - zesty but delicate. Ends up in no-mans land with cool clean vetiver pulling one way and warm woods the other. It doesnít quite have the Ďcold water sink-washí feel of grey vetiver/original vetiver/muegler cologne; and doesnít have the full warm woods richness of Comme des GarÁons or Líoccitaneís Cade. Plus Iím not the biggest fan of orange fragrances. Probably needs a particular type of day to make this work - when you need slightly warm, slightly fresh (or canít make up your mind).
08th February, 2019

Herod by Parfums de Marly

This is a gorgeous woodsy vanilla. The tobacco is less full-on than Tobacco Vanille - TV is a rich spicy vanilla pipe tobacco but Herod is at another level in terms of interest and complexity with the floral notes. Plus, the tobacco is less old-man-ish and intense, and more subtle. Herod is expensive but itís an outstanding winter scent - itís interesting enough to wear several days in a row, but not so over powering you get overwhelmed and sick of it. Definitely one of my all time favourites and a top ten.
27th January, 2019 (last edited: 22nd February, 2019)

Mťchant Loup by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Reading the notes I thought this was going to be a really eccentric fragrance of sweet honey, nuts and radix, that was either going to be a smash-hit of inspiration or really awful. Itís actually neither. It opens quite softly, with a delicate fusion of honey with a hint of licorice, cedar and the faintest hint of pine straw. Thereís also something ever so slightly soapy which gives the fragrance a much Ďcleanerí vibe than I expected - itís definitely a forest in the morning after a cold night, with the sun just starting to warm things up and tease out all the different smells all at the same time. Itís more of an ambiance. There are no strong individual notes, no collisions of big flavours. Thereís nothing particularly animalic. In short, I think the ďbig bad wolfĒ must have been out the day they collected the notes for this fragrance.

Itís actually quite pleasant and almost fougere-like. As it dries down, itís got the same green+yellow+brown vibe but instead of ďcleanĒ it becomes ever so slightly warmer and more mellow, like a sort of heavily diluted Cuir Pleine Fleur without the leather. Thereís still no wolf to be found.

Itís difficult to know what this fragrance is for or when to wear it. I like it and itís intriguing enough that Iím going to try it again, perhaps with a heavier application to see if I can get more out of it and maybe it will show s different side to itself in a different season. Weíll see...
27th January, 2019

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Thereís a great Katie Puckrik review of this likening it to a circus and, wow - it really does smells of leather and circus animals! I donít get much sweetness, toffee or woods - just large musky animals with a slightly fecal, stale litter-tray / sawdust twist. To me itís less ďbig-topĒ and more like the cages out the back. Itís incredible how evocative it is (and for some reason I do keep wanting to smell it again) but itís not a pleasant or particularly wearable fragrance.
27th January, 2019

Sel Marin by Heeley

This is my number one fragrance for high-heat summer when anything even slightly sweet becomes cloying and sickly. I remember respraying on a packed train home in the height of last summer (to hide the fug of a carriage-full of hot sweaty people) and was immediately taken to the end of a jetty surrounded by a salty breeze, sea spray and the faintest twist of citrus-y fresh seaweed. Like a breath of fresh sea air!
27th January, 2019

Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by Heeley

One of my favourite leather fragrances, but a Ďgreen/yellowí floral leather rather than a dark animal-y leather. I definitely get a leather thatís got a clean fresh hay scent, with grass and something that smells a bit like daisies. For me this is very much a daytime scent, for less warm summer or autumn days, and perhaps even for when itís raining and you want to remind yourself of a summer late-afternoon in a field, relaxing in the last of the sun, in a fleece-lined brown leather jacket. Itís more niche than versatile but a lovely fragrance to have for the occasions you want to use it.
27th January, 2019

Eau des Baux by L'Occitane

A nice woody vanilla scent but it has an ever so slight taint of something thatís almost diesel-like. The same smell is in their Líoccitan fragragrance but there itís better masked by the lavender and burnt woods (though itís still noticeable). In Eau des Baux itís more obtrusive which is a shame - in the genre of vanilla fragrances, the woodyness of EdB gives it an edge against simpler vanilla fragrances (such as Eau Duelle) and it would otherwise be a reasonably priced alternative to more expensive masterpieces like Tobacco Vanille and Herod. As it is, Zaraís Rich Warm and Addictive does this job nicely (though has less tobacco and doesnít have quite the same depth of spices once you get more familiar with both).
27th January, 2019

L'Occitan by L'Occitane

I was gifted the shower gel version of this and bought the fragrance off the back of it. The fragrance is a little sharper but is still clean and inoffensive, and is now a staple in the collection. The burnt woods gives it a depth that makes it more than just a generic lavender, without it becoming too dirty. I find it works well in Spring and Autumn when heavy winter fragrances are too much and summer scents lack depth. All in all itís one of those clean office-safe scents thatís versatile enough to use without too much thought, but not quite a mass-market hype-train scent that everyone wears.
27th January, 2019 (last edited: 26th January, 2019)

Costa Azzurra by Tom Ford

Like the sun sparkling off one of the Italian lakes, with the faintest smell of mountain herbs in the background. Itís classy and gentle enough for the office and summer weekends, and works for evenings too (moonlight reflecting off the Italian lakes). Itís such a subtle fragrance that sings different notes in different situations - refreshing during the day and slightly sweeter at night. Itís versatile but stands out from the designer crowd like a million dollars. As a spring/summer all-rounder Iíve not found anything that beats it. Shame itís apparently discontinued now, so Iím stocking up!
26th January, 2019 (last edited: 03rd February, 2019)