Everything but the kitchen sink (florals). The kicker being massive ylang-ylang and gardenia heightened with sandalwood and vanilla, also overloaded. Big hair and shoulder pads are a must. Famous for making small spaces intolerable. Perfumes like this give perfume a bad reputation.
A pleasantly "dusty" Iris that has an enveloping effect. The opening is somewhat dry and sharp, sort of aldehydic. If you have the oil version this is not evident- just creamy Iris, musk and violet. All in all, an iris of top quality. Subtle, regal- not to be missed.
At first there is a strong soapy scent mixed with what smells like vetiver, though none is listed.
Per The Perfumed Court, here are CC 1872's notes: bergamot, tangerine, lemon, pineapple jasmine, lily of the valley, rose de mai, jasmine, orchid, cedarwood, sandalwood and patchouli.
Sourness pervades, followed 30 min later by a distinct whiff of Rose de Mai. This is the highlight of the all too brief perfume. After an hour I couldn't smell anything at all, save for a smidgen of pineapple.
A dark, sweet, amber oriental floral. It opens with powerful sweet blast of tuberose. Within 20-30 minutes the scent gains depth as rose and Jasmine step up. This is a glorious old-style big-shoulder pad scent from the 1990's. A great example of its kind and still very pleasant, not nasty. Well-blended.
Light, lovely lemon. So this is what Hesperide is all about! I also get the Jasmine, mandarine, vetiver and musk. This is so light but snappy and crisp. Really almost a 'solar' quality, if that makes sense. I am reminded of Hermes- Eau de Merveilles. This has real potential as a keeper. I think a bigger spray might be required as silage is light.
Light, fresh, sparkling and feminine floral. The orange and Jasmine combine perfectly to create a tangy, slightly sweet aura. Not powdery. I'm surprised there are no aldehydes listed as the effect is effervescent. Reccomended.
Notes: saffron, truffle, crocus, rose, patchouli, tree moss, oud, vanilla. While this scent goes through a strident, awkward stage to start (saffron?) it shortly mellows to a woody rose that is hard to beat. The vanilla is so soft here and is beautifully blended with the patchouli that it gives an almost gourmand sensation with spices. Really charming. Good silage.
Dark, earthy, old-school chypre. This must have castoreum and oak moss a plenty. It is not for the faint of heart. It does have that big-shoulder-pad vibe. A 'bosomy' floral with chutzpah, leather and that glorious old-fashioned glow.
The version I have is mainly galbanum and Lilly-of-the-valley. A spicy, green chypre. You just don't find these anymore. Light and spring-like even though it is tenacious and has great silage for an EDT.
A great traditional fresh 'cologne' for those who possibly are disappointed in the re-formulation of 'Acqua di Colonia Asoluta'. I very much like the bergamot and Sicilian Lemon combination here. Tangy, tart and dry Vetiver. Great for a man in summer. What's not to like?
I must preface this review with a caveat; there are two versions of this juice. An American import and one made in France for sale only in Europe. I first sampled the American version in New York around 2006. It smelled like a strong amber and dead flowers. Then a year or so later, I discovered that only potable alcohol was used in European perfume- due to antiquated laws reaching back to Prohibition Era. US imports use cheaper, harsher denatured alcohol.This may sometimes affect the smell of the perfume. I got the idea to order 'French CanCan' based solely on the notes. I felt that it might be better than the sample I had had in New York.
I was not disappointed! The French version is a creamy and rich floral in which each note seems to jump forward. Amber and sandalwood support rose, violet, Lily-of-the-valley and jasmine- and all nearly simultaneously. I used to think there was heliotrope here but it's not listed. This is just a glorious floral that's not too sweet. It's dignified, yet joyful. The oak moss is still lovely, too even with every body breathing down their necks- this is still a chypre. As you can tell, I'm a fan of the Parisian juice- parfum. I guess the overall effect is spicy- carnation like, but it's more violet and jasmine, too. And rose- don't forget the rose! I feel dizzy.
30th June, 2014 (last edited: 13th October, 2015)
Warm, woody spicy at first. I admit, I don't know laudanum from olibanum. This smells quite linear to me. Sadly, within an hour it turns to Play Dough on me. I guess I can live without it although it starts out nice enough.
A light, yet insistent rendition of lilac. I am reminded of Parure without the headiness. This is like a quiet veil. As beautiful and similar to any lilac I have yet to try. Just about perfect. Airy, possibly powdery but not baby powder, this is the real deal. A true soliflore of distinction. Even slightly green and citrus which prevents it from being too sweet to my nose. Sadly, this is discontinued and rare as hen's teeth. Rich and delightful as the name implies.
Charming jasmine and mimosa come forward tempered by the green Mandarine and lemon opening. Fresh, white floral- dignified but playful. I usually don't care for mimosa but here it takes it up a notch to a slightly edgier space. Without it, it would be a little too creamy and predictable. This is definitely sweet, but not powdery. Tangy and vanilla musk keep the whole composition precise and spring-like.
A sensuous, boozy tapestry. Great silage and tenacity. Overall woody (cedar) and gourmand vanilla dominate although the violet and peach are cleverly blended to add a juicy, fruity aspect. This gets under the skin and in the sinuses like no other scent I know. Notes are; violet, peach, plum, rose, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, musk, Atlas cedarwood, and vanilla. It is available from Les Salons du Palais Royal. Woods and vodka- what more can I say?
I'm surprised there are few mentions of the heliotrope here. I get a strong wave at the start and amber as well. This feels like a safer version of L'Heure Bleue. Which could come in handy since LHB can get a bit intense for the uninitiated and is difficult to wear when you're out and about. There is definitely vanilla, too. The mandarine I'll take on faith, since I can't pick it out. But over the course of the fragrance the heliotrope and amber amplify and combine in a symphonic orgy. It is a joy!
Well-made and elegant, this one is just not my style. Possibly the cassia note is the deal-breaker. There is an overall powdery accord (rose and ylang-ylang) that just overwhelms me. This is way too "perfumey" for me. I need something less frilly, more tweedy. Bring back 'Sous les Vent'!
Green, rich and mossy chypre. Why this one has remained under the radar is anybody's guess. I adore mine!
Rose (absolue) stronger, evidently, plus pepper, Aoud and a powerful blast of patchouli, isn't sitting well with me. It has an oddly camphourous effect overall. I wonder if this is better suited for male chemistry. It just isn't working with mine and I keep getting soapy wafts along with peppery roses. A headache and a scrubber.
Contrary to popular belief, there is no civit in this perfume. There is a sweetened leather with orange up top. Very creamy and dark. You can definitely get tuberose along with amber here. I find it comforting and luxurious. Too bad Turin only tested on paper strips. This one needs to warm up and meld with the human skin. Glad I bought a back-up.
Smooth, vanillic, golden; this is my holy grail amber. I searched through countless ambers and found it. I have an old, vintage bottle which is very intense and superb. Just beautiful.
This is a stunner. Too good, so of course, it is discontinued. The cassis or black currant is prominent as is the lemon-tinged geranium. A rosy glow is cast overall. Bright and uplifting, I'm so happy I have a bottle of this classic in my wardrobe. A floral for those who don't like sweet, gooey florals. This one is greener, more tangy.
I believe this was the first in the 'Ma' Patou series. It seemed to me it should be his finest effort and so, though I could find no information on it, I bought it blind. I was not disappointed. (This is for the re issued parfum from the 1980's) It seems to be a tangerine or mandarine based chypre. The notes are lost to history. I detect bergamot, jasmine, labdanum, Oppoanax, Vetiver, oak moss, musk, vanilla, styrax, citrus notes; either mandarine or tangerine, carnation. The overall effect is a creamy and golden chypre with a musky vanilla finish. Elegant, warm and sassy.
This is the same as 'Eleanora Dusé'. It is a cool, candied blue-violet scent. So exquisite, it will make you cry. This is in the same style as 'Aprés L'Ondée'. The Iris is the floral type, not the root. The cedar gives it a slightly sweet woody tone. Heartbreaking! It is light in silage, but fun to reapply.
Floral, grassy sandalwood. Has a soapy warm, golden appeal. Chypre-like. Unisex. So fresh and Spring-friendly. It makes you think of Spring or feel like you are sitting out on the patio. Lasts a long time and mellows nicely, too.
I loved this cool, violet scent so much I was heart-broken when I found it was a Special Limited Edition. Not to worry. They have re-issued it and are calling it 'Violette a Sydney'. I bought some and am quite sure it is the same juice. I have only been able, so far, to locate it on the Tonatto website, though. Sadly, as it is quite expensive. It is a glorious, blue-violet, though. Highly recommended.
A juicy, dark tuberose. Not to be missed. Now, sadly discontinued. The parfum is definitely the way to go. If florals are not your thing, you won't dig this, but if you like an old-school, bosomy grown-up, out on the town, furs and high heels glamour scent, then, Hubba Hubba! This will make your heart race.
Harsh, grass-like substance. It must be the juniper that is dominant here. I really don't enjoy this in the least. A scrubber!
This is a delightful surprise. Maybe it's the violet leaf accord, but I'm instantly drawn in and held by a soft, fruity leather. I don't have a distinct memory of the notes, but I found it charming, like playing outside in the wet grass of the summer nights.
I find this to be a fairly successful rendering of Lilly-of-the-valley. It is pleasantly sweet and green to my nose. It reminds me of springtime and great silage for such a delicate scent. Rather remarkable.