Perfume Reviews

Reviews by kumquat

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Total Reviews: 88

Adjatay Cuir Narcotique by The Different Company

Exquisite! Tuberose, ylang ylang and the heliotrope is the bomb! Of course, there's tonka, styrax and musk here, too. It's all there, but skillfully blended. Sweet, ambery tuberose is the overall effect with whiffs of heliotrope. I don't really get the leather all that much but it's still enjoyable. A heady, bossy floral. Underneath, a faint soapiness, possibly that will lead to leather in future.
This conjures up thoughts of a brilliant spring garden, sprinkled with light and white flowers.
28th June, 2017

Rodin by Rodin Olio Lusso

This has the effect of deeply indolic jasmine. I don't pick out the notes individually as they are so skillfully blended. A joy to wear, excellent silage. I dread paying for it though as it is very dear. Dries to a sensual skin scent.
23rd June, 2017

Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules

This has been around for a long time. Who knows why? I sprayed a good amount on and got...NOTHING. Where was it? All these imaginary notes. There's simply not an iota of truth to any of it. If you want woods get 'Heeley Cardinal'. 'Escentric One' is a dud.
07th June, 2017
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Bracken Woman by Amouage

Lily and chamomile very faint. The silage is minimal although the synthetic berry accord struggles to the front. For a half a minute I was reminded of 'Cabotine' but this just has no body. It's too weak to defend itself. I could be wrong. All I have is a 1ml sample. Possibly if this were sprayed and liberally applied, there would be an overall greenish, almost elfin effect. It's hard to say. I have to push my nose directly to my skin to get this. I'm afraid I can't recommend, especially at this price.
06th June, 2017

Gold II by AJ Arabia

Mary Poppins said it - "Perfectly perfect in every way". The saffron is ambery sweet and lightly floral. The orange and orange blossom meld in the mid notes. Rose is there, too and amber mixed with cedar flanked by vanilla round out the composition in high style. Sometimes vanilla is too sweet but here it just warms the components. Delicate, golden and sweet but woody. This is a heady pleasure. Why, oh why is it soooo $$$$? Still, I feel I must have this. The citrus of Eau de Merveillies is missing but the comparison is apt. The longevity and wafting power is superior, however and that is the attraction. I feel like a spoiled princess in this scent. It is going on my to buy list.
06th June, 2017

The Fragrance Journals : 1962 by Floris

Hypnotic green spearmint, bergamot and something called 'green mandarin'. I normally love mandarin and here the effect with green accents is no exception. Overall, a lime feel is created. Cypress underneath anchors it beautifully.
31st May, 2017

Soulle Ámbar by Floris

Amber, jasmine, musk with bergamot up front. This is the strongest one yet. So many of the other Floris offerings fade away so fast, this one has legs! Very sweet and spicy, overall. A winner.
31st May, 2017

Monogram Collection : Bohea Bohème by Mona di Orio

A sophisticated, smoky, woodsy affair. Any florals are overpowered by the bensoin and the smoky notes of juniper, oak wood, fir balsam sandalwood and cardamom. It doesn't smell like tea to me but there is a pleasant herbal effect. The notes are certainly high quality and well-blended. I decided this just wasn't unique enough for a full bottle, though. Generic smoke and spice. Nice silage.
31st December, 2016

White Flowers by Creed

I suddenly realized which perfume is the soul sister of this- it is the crisp green apple of 'D&G Light Blue'. And the sharp clean Jasmine with the white musk. I'm surprised at the lackluster reviews for this one. I first fell for 'Jardin D'Amalfi' but this one has moved into first place. I just love the sharp green violet leaf here. Such tang and spark. The surprise here is that for a white floral, this is fresh, not cloying. A real springtime treat. I get good silage and longevity, too. 2-3 hours.
29th September, 2016

Miyako by Auphorie

I get a strange mentholated peach accord. Not my favorite. I am reminded of a fresh band aid. There is a plastic note I can't shake. The Osmanthus does come forward after a few minutes but it is mixed with peach. This is just nothing like I want to smell. I guess the plastic note is a deal-breaker for me.
10th July, 2016

Regal Secret by Auphorie

This is a typical blackcurrant scent with whiffs of heliotrope. I definitely get the musk, too and ambergris. This is a charming, if somewhat predictable scent. Fading fast, unfortunately although it's very pleasant and fresh on the dry down. I can't say that I especially noticed any pineapple.
10th July, 2016 (last edited: 09th July, 2016)

Eternal Voyage by Auphorie

An oil-based perfume that takes some time to dry. Prominently featuring Labdanum, rose and sandalwood. A sweet/woody oriental that is at once comforting and enervating. Just one spray was quite strong so it appears to have good silage and lasting capabilities. A winner in my estimation. I perceive the animalic notes more as myrrh rather than civit and castoreum. It feels more rounded than animalic to me.
09th July, 2016

Mughetto by Santa Maria Novella

A first rate Lily of the valley that comes on strong and holds its intense, fresh green snap for a good long time. There's probably some Jasmine here as I'm a fan. It just smells clean and fresh. Very realistic. Its only flaw is the linear structure. It doesn't change. Still delightful if you crave LOV.
07th July, 2016
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Djedi by Guerlain

Notes- bergamot, aldehyde, lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, orris, vetiver, civet, musk, oakmoss, amber , Black amber

This review is for the 1996 reissue. While it has been criticized for its lack of civit, I have added a drop of civit / 5 ml of juice (parfum) with excellent results. It is chiefly a sweet hay scent. The civit brings forward the vetiver and adds a leathery, earthy creaminess. Meanwhile the floral undertones weave a subtle web throughout. This is heady, amber with a leather finish. After it has mellowed there is a cement note that pervades. Cool and stony, almost yeasty, like baking bread in an ancient stone kitchen.

Deep, dark and haunting. The rose and Vetiver cling for hours. Overall, a golden sensation, like autumn.
06th June, 2016

Oxiana by Profumum

A most intriguing scent due to the intense myrrh note. I'm reminded of "golden, magical mushrooms". Musky and earthy, this one has the scent of the forest floor and the fairies that flit among the flowers. I wish more people would try this and weigh in with their opinion. I, personally enjoy this dusky, off-beat scent very much but you must try it for yourself. It's all about the myrrh.
25th April, 2016

Beyond Paradise by Estée Lauder

Plastic and potentially poisonous paradox. The main notes that grab at the throat appear to be the artificial orchid and honeysuckle, both of which are deal-breakers for me as they are rarely appealing in a scent. Here they are used in a heavy-handed way in combination with many other artificial-smelling notes. The grapefruit note is especially sour. "Eden Mist Accord"? I shudder to think what chemical concoction that represents. All in all; a dizzying swirl of sweet and sour.

LT doesn't state whether he tested the EDT or the supposedly superior EDP. One can only surmise it was the EDP because the glowing review in 'The Guide' makes no sense otherwise. Why the company has discontinued the EDP and now only offers the inferior EDT is another mystery. Although, apparently the EDP is out there on the Internet. This one (EDT) was a scrubber for me. It's the sort of perfume that gives perfume a bad reputation. Whatever you do, don't wear it to dinner. An appetite killer.
13th April, 2016

Aleksandr by Arquiste

Neroli leading into fresh, greenish leather. Cozy and great for the gentleman.
22nd March, 2016

Divin'enfant by Etat Libre d'Orange

Sweet Amber and musk. To be honest, I mistook the orange blossom for heliotrope. There is a sweetness in the opening that mimics heliotrope. Then it settles down to a soft amber. Not amazing but not unlikable.
22nd March, 2016

Les Indes Galantes by MDCI

Although there is no amber listed, that is the overall effect of this satisfying scent. Fairly linear, it begins in the almond range but moves into benzoin/Labdanum territory where it stays and gives a steady, if orangey impression of amber. This is laced with sweet spices also which puts it in the oriental category. Rich and sultry.
22nd March, 2016

Black III by AJ Arabia

A respectable green chypre that has a distinctive 'barbershop aspect'. It comes on strong and minty but mossy, then the vanilla comes in. I'm enjoying this for its green/woodiness and I think I'd enjoy it on a man. It's just a little too masculine for me, however. It's the sandalwood here that I'm picking up on, I realized. This is a very good sandalwood but that's what gives it that barbershop effect.
21st March, 2016 (last edited: 20th March, 2016)

Black I by AJ Arabia

I liked this quite a lot. Must have been the cedar and whatever spices- possibly Labdanum are there. My only concern was a distinct lack of throw. I could only smell it by putting my nose directly on the sample area. Otherwise, a very pleasant, even sassy, spicy scent. And very expensive for such little silage (in a parfum, yet).
20th March, 2016

Orientalissimo / Attar Maulana by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

This heady oriental floral features rose, jasmine, tuberose, castoreum, styrax, leather and vanilla. The tuberose is prominent and sweet underscored by the animalic castoreum and the amber/woody styrax. The layers of rose and jasmine are woven throughout adding a depth to the "oriental" effect. While this is listed as unisex, it definitely leans floral and feminine unless you have a tolerance for rich, sweet flowery scents, this may not be your thing. It must be the "attar" that makes this scent especially powerful compared to many other of these Profumo offerings which tend to have gentle, close-to-the-skin silage. This one is tenacious and bossy, so be prepared.
29th January, 2016

Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly Hills

Everything but the kitchen sink (florals). The kicker being massive ylang-ylang and gardenia heightened with sandalwood and vanilla, also overloaded. Big hair and shoulder pads are a must. Famous for making small spaces intolerable. Perfumes like this give perfume a bad reputation.
22nd October, 2015

Iris 39 by Le Labo

A pleasantly "dusty" Iris that has an enveloping effect. The opening is somewhat dry and sharp, sort of aldehydic. If you have the oil version this is not evident- just creamy Iris, musk and violet. All in all, an iris of top quality. Subtle, regal- not to be missed.
23rd September, 2015

1872 for Women by Clive Christian

At first there is a strong soapy scent mixed with what smells like vetiver, though none is listed.
Per The Perfumed Court, here are CC 1872's notes: bergamot, tangerine, lemon, pineapple jasmine, lily of the valley, rose de mai, jasmine, orchid, cedarwood, sandalwood and patchouli.

Sourness pervades, followed 30 min later by a distinct whiff of Rose de Mai. This is the highlight of the all too brief perfume. After an hour I couldn't smell anything at all, save for a smidgen of pineapple.
18th September, 2015

Jil Sander No. 4 by Jil Sander

A dark, sweet, amber oriental floral. It opens with powerful sweet blast of tuberose. Within 20-30 minutes the scent gains depth as rose and Jasmine step up. This is a glorious old-style big-shoulder pad scent from the 1990's. A great example of its kind and still very pleasant, not nasty. Well-blended.
15th September, 2015

Vol d'Hirondelle by LM Parfums

Light, lovely lemon. So this is what Hesperide is all about! I also get the Jasmine, mandarine, vetiver and musk. This is so light but snappy and crisp. Really almost a 'solar' quality, if that makes sense. I am reminded of Hermes- Eau de Merveilles. This has real potential as a keeper. I think a bigger spray might be required as silage is light.
09th September, 2015

Montforte 2 by Mazzolari

Light, fresh, sparkling and feminine floral. The orange and Jasmine combine perfectly to create a tangy, slightly sweet aura. Not powdery. I'm surprised there are no aldehydes listed as the effect is effervescent. Reccomended.
04th September, 2015

Noir de Noir by Tom Ford

Notes: saffron, truffle, crocus, rose, patchouli, tree moss, oud, vanilla. While this scent goes through a strident, awkward stage to start (saffron?) it shortly mellows to a woody rose that is hard to beat. The vanilla is so soft here and is beautifully blended with the patchouli that it gives an almost gourmand sensation with spices. Really charming. Good silage.
16th July, 2015

Madame Carven by Carven

Dark, earthy, old-school chypre. This must have castoreum and oak moss a plenty. It is not for the faint of heart. It does have that big-shoulder-pad vibe. A 'bosomy' floral with chutzpah, leather and that glorious old-fashioned glow.
12th June, 2015