Reviews by VanAllan

    VanAllan's avatar
    VanAllan
    Romania Romania

    Showing 1 to 30 of 34.
    rating


    L'Eau du Navigateur by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    My first 'niche' fragrance and one of the few scents in my collection that blew me away instantly. After reading all I could find about it and decided for another blind buy, I couldn't believe at first wearing it is a fragrance created in 1979 !...it has so many notes I usualy appreciate in a man's fragrance: bitter roasted coffee, spices, leather, dry florals, incense, tobacco - everything packed harmoniously and delivering a stunning and intriguing oriental scent.
    When I wear this, I imagine myself on a chill morning in a torn leather jacket on the upper deck of an old sail, drinking coffee from a tin can and enjoying the smell of Eastern spices coming from under the deck. In this regard, for me, L'Eau du Navigateur is more than a fragrance...it's a marvelous adventure of senses.
    My humble ranking 9.5/10. Highly reccomended.

    06th November, 2014

    rating


    Eau Sauvage Parfum by Christian Dior

    Another marvelous fragrance from Dior.
    I think it's important to keep in mind that is not an 'intense' version of the traditional Eau Sauvage. This one is pretty much different and, imo, the main difference here is the masterfully simplicity of combining three wonderful masculine notes (bergamot, myrrh and vetiver). The result: a balsamic, exotic, sweet-citrusy masterpiece and, in my opinion, the reason of the success of this release.

    More oriental and a little bit darker than its Extreme predecesor, with a wonderful myrrh note, very well combined in the whole of the composition, surrounded by a zesty citrus top and an earthy vetiver base. It lasts 6-10 hrs on skin, with a noticeable presence in the first 2 hrs, a versatile and compelling creation. My personal rank 9/10.

    06th November, 2014

    rating


    Eau Sauvage Extrême (new / Intense) by Christian Dior

    A (somehow) modernized version of the classic Eau Sauvage, for sure aimed to younger people, as it presents sweeter and fruitier top notes with smooth lavender and patchouli mixed in, followed by aromatic-spicy notes (basil, coriander, rosemary) combined with some musty-green aldehydes, mellow jasmine and a creamy sandalwood that lead the way to the longlasting base where it loses some of the fruity-aromatic accord in favour of woody-honeyed notes (oakmoss, cedar, patchouli, smoky amber).
    On my skin it has a wonderful evolution, similar (to a certain extent and adequate proportions) with Guerlain Homme Intense, Hermes Voyage EDP and Chanel Allure Blanche.
    Great projection/sillage in the first 1-2 hrs. then close to skin, lasting on me up to 6-8 hrs. Overall a solid quality fragrance from Dior at a fair price.
    My personal ranking 8.8/10

    05th September, 2014

    rating


    Derby by Guerlain

    A woody-flowery-chypre masterpiece from the former times which managed to retain the glory of this genre: artemisia, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli and sandalwood are the most evident to my nose, all packed in a natural efortless blending to entertain your nostrils and reminds you how real men's fragrances used to be. Guerlain is one of my preffered houses and its releases never failed me. My humble rank 8/10

    31st July, 2014

    rating


    Signature pour Homme by S.T. Dupont

    Got a small (30ml) bottle a week before Christmas, due to its good price and the reviews read all over.
    An elegant oriental fragrance that features (on my skin) mostly its flowery spicy-balsamic-ambery notes, in this order. Less vanilic/flowery than Jaipur PH and more spicy-ambery than Jacomo for Men. Heliotrope, birch, incense and benzoin are also present but more in the background, giving to the whole a nice sweet-balsamic support. Pretty linear development from the spicy semi-aromatic top to the creamy-ambery drydown, good for close encounters and cold weather on special occasions. My rank 7.7/10

    04th April, 2014

    rating


    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    An iconic fragrance and a reference in the scent world, which I used to hate when I was a student (when a lot of foreign students wore it way too loud making it unbearable for most of us).
    I tried it again couple of weeks ago and it caught me because on one hand my nose has 'matured' meanwhile along with my increasing collection and on the other hand this reformulated version is (fortunately) more bearable for me, so when I got the chance I bought it happily.
    Coriander, sage, bergamot with a touch of honey sweetness is what I get from the start, followed quickly by a mellowing flowery combo of geranium, patchouli and carnation, with the top aromatic-sweetness still in background. In the next 2 hrs the scent matures in its leathery-animalic-musky base, very mature and compelling.
    A great 'barbershop' style frag for me which I really like it a lot and even if it's kinda 'weak' now (for other collectors who used to treasure its vintage version's power) it suits me well and so others noses around me. My rank 8/10 - a keeper in my everyday wardrobe.

    04th April, 2014

    rating


    212 Men On Ice (2010) by Carolina Herrera

    Great

    Simply marvelous! The touch of black pepper over the violet, sensual licorice and smooth musky woods make this discontinued flanker better than original in my book and turns an everyday fragrance into a sexy nighttime beast.
    I was very happy to put my hands on a full unopened bottle of this beauty, great longevity, silage and I see it entering proudly in my top 20.

    12th July, 2013

    rating


    Must de Cartier Pour Homme by Cartier

    One of the reasons I didn't tried before this beauty is Must de Cartier pour Femme which my wife got as present and we both hated it, until it 'walked' away to her sister.
    Yesterday I've come across in local Sephora over a lost-on-the-rack tester of this (along with only one very expensive bottle) and gave it a try...Ohh my!... what an alluring and elegant smell!. Smooth cinnamon over an oily barbershop vibe (I think anise, olive leaf, cinnamon and ginger are masterfully blended in top-middle notes) lending to a not-so-sweet woody-oriental base ('dirty' Cartier's signature patchouli & musk, some tonka, little vetiver and a wonderful creamy sandalwood) which I liked so much.
    Rather average projection but pretty long-lasting and one of the best classic orientals in my book.
    Needless to say I hunted for few hours one of the last bottles online, which will be a staple in my wardrobe. My rank 8.6/10.

    28th March, 2013

    rating


    Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

    A beautiful strange fragrance and even though very typical of aromatic-fougere type.
    I bought this 2 weeks ago and eager to try it I sprayed 3 shots and was hitted instantly by a dark cloud of grey amber, violet leaf, patchouli & musk that almost choked my senses. It's like a dirty oily concrete perimeter that surrounds a violet & patchouli garden under a spring rain and I just Love it !.
    The spray mechanism is very effective so I would say a max. 3-4 sprays in a normal day to get the whole feeling experience. Ambery, fougere, wet, musky, aromatic, dark, long-lasting...it has them all !.
    My personal rank 8.8/10. Nice job Francis Kurkdjian !

    28th March, 2013

    rating


    L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

    Received weeks ago this beauty in mail...after a long staying in my want list and shopping for others just because they are discontinued and harder to find, I decided to finally add this Guerlain masterpiece in my collection.
    A modern and also fastidious fragrance for gentlemen, suitable almost all year round (well, maybe except warm days of summer), beautifully evolving on skin and keeping you constantly amazed. It has all the way that 'guerlinade' signature, that sensual 'je-ne-sais-quoi' which makes wonders on your and others nostrils.
    This creation has everything I could demand from a fragrance: complex evolution from bitter-citrus top going through smooth flowers ending into sweet-cocoa-like-woody drydown, wow factor from ladies, is long lasting, has good projection, elegance and modernism.
    My humble rank 9.5/10.

    21st December, 2012

    rating


    Voyage d'Hermes Parfum by Hermès

    Better in my book than many similar mentioned fragrances, especialy EDT edition and Cartier Essence.
    Strong bitter-fresh-spicy combo at top (coriander-plenty, make me think of Eau de Cartier Concentree, pepper and some bitter fresh notes from juniper), stayed on my skin more than 1 hr., until the green flowery middle notes take the stage (beautiful rose-remember in some aspects Burberry Brit, aromatic tea-like the one in Gucci II) putting some of the spices in background, but still going strong.
    After 3-4 hrs, the base kicks in and the ambery-woody notes melt the whole in an elegant aura that remains on skin a long time, asking to be sniffed more and more. Unisex?!...who cares? My rank 9/10.
    I love it by now and thinking at the moment when I will own and enjoy it, I only can say: "The best is yet to come" :)

    08th November, 2012

    rating


    A*Men: Les Parfums de Cuir / Pure Leather by Thierry Mugler

    Sitting in front of my computer 1hr. after testing this with a generous shot on my wrist. I was very curious to try this as I'm not a fan of original A*Men, but I just love B*Men and TOF.
    I simply cannot classify this so called 'leather' edition as Leather, because what I get from it is a sweet-milky-suede poured on top of a smoother A*Men, that intensifies on my skin the caramel and patchouli notes. Very oriental-gourmand I guess...
    I also think this flanker is the closest related to original, so for now I'll pass. In MY book, is still a step behind B*Men and TOF.
    I keep the generous sample SA offered me, who knows, maybe some colder day will do better justice for this. 7.8/10 for now.

    08th November, 2012

    rating


    Insensé by Givenchy

    A must have, imo, for every serious collector...one of the latest remaining kings of flower-aromatic kingdom. Strong, bitter citruses floating around a smooth aromatic flowers field, finding peace in a deep forest, that radiate confidence and serenity in the same time.
    It's somehow funny and surprising for me to discover that the more I try new fragrances the less I care about them and always return to the Golden Age frags, when perfumery was more an art than pure chemistry strongly marketed.
    My humble rank 8.0/10. This is Not for the 1 Million/Fuel for life fans though...

    31st July, 2012

    rating


    Versace l'Homme by Versace

    A hidden gem and one of the mature fragrances that deserve a bigger price that those few bucks is sold for.I didn't care too much for it few years go when I tried it but now the things have changed...
    I have a 1.7 oz of the recent formulation and I like it pretty much for what it is: bitter-lemony-alcohol opening that morphs in about 10 minutes into a wonderful fougere-musky-sweet-leathery combination of notes.
    Strong sillage, very good longevity (one squirt on my arm lasted more that 8 hrs.), complex development.
    I'm glad I rediscovered this because I think that sense of smell as the sense of taste is evolving if you train it enough. My humble rank 8.5/10.

    31st July, 2012

    rating


    Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada

    Prada Man is one of my favourite after shave applying fragrances when I dress up a clean shirt for work or even casually after a long shower in a sunny Sunday morning. Clean, luxury soapy, little herbal, complex development and long-lasting, it makes me feel relaxed, clean and confident.
    Personally I have no issues with its so called feminine side because it delivers fully a soapiness -freshness that I expect from it and that's enough for me.
    Worth mentioning that after testing about 10-15 'new' fragrances I bought relatively cheap a big splash bottle and I use a few drops over a neutral moisturizing cream that make miracles on my skin: projection is very good and the overall feeling is fantastic. I just love it. My rank 8.5/10.

    31st July, 2012

    rating


    A*Men Sunessence Orage D'Ete / Summer Storm by Thierry Mugler

    This beauty came in my mail 2 months ago after a blind buy based only on reviews found online and recommendations from other users. Taking into account the fact that I don't like A*Men, I can say that I really love this limited edition, as it has very little in common with original.

    A sharp & tonic opening, perceived as fruity & little sweet, very appropiate for spring sunny days, followed by a spicy patchouli, smooth coffee & some woods combination, very very good indeed.

    As a limited edition I couldn't be more happy that I didn't miss it (like I did with others wanted limited flankers) and I can throughly recommend it to those who think original A*Men is too much for them.

    Longevity is not an issue by itself...personally there are many times I don't want a fragrance to stay with me all day and get tired of it, so I would say about 4-5 hrs, with a noticeable presence in the first two. My rank 8/10. A truly nice surprise...

    31st July, 2012

    rating


    Quorum Silver by Antonio Puig

    As an Azzaro Visit's lover and wearer for some years by now, the notes melted in this Puig creation have strike me as something lovable from the very first sniff.
    Lavender, ginger & pepper are making a good start for this beauty, followed almost instantly by a big cedar note, together with some sweet-smoky nutmeg which stayed on me almost unchanged for at least good 3-4 hrs.
    Make no mistake, cedar is the main actor here so if you don't like cedar, you should probably stay away from this. As for myself, I enjoyed every minute of its development on my skin and I can say that in some parts I like it even more than Visit.
    Dry-down is at a 5-6 hrs distance form top notes with its beautiful sweet and not-cloying notes of guaiac-wood, amber and of course a lot of cedar...
    An underrated fragrance and a very good value for the money. My humble rank: 8/10. Bravo Puig ! Hola to Barcelona!.

    29th February, 2012

    rating


    Miracle Homme by Lancôme

    It starts woody-fresh-spicy with a noticeable red-pepper & oakmoss presence, enveloped by a slight bitter coffee aroma.
    After 30 min. it become sweeter and here is for me the miracle: adding the cedar/coffee/rosewood it turns into a wonderful combination, a spicy-powdery one, never encountered before. Stays like this for the next 3-4 hrs, adding at drydown a slight guaiacwood-vetiver waft.
    I mostly perceived it more like a spicy-oriental type that has a great combination of notes and I could easily climb it in my top 5 fragrances for cold weather. Discontinued & wonderful.

    10th February, 2012

    rating


    Présence by Montblanc

    I got a sharp-sweet opening with a lot of ginger & cinnamon thrown there. In the next 10-15 minutes it already combines the middle notes where the adding association of apple (zesty-fruity), sage (herbal spicy) and heliotrope produces an effect at least sickly-weird on my skin...
    Not a truly oriental, neither a fresh-spicy one, it just seems to react different on other people's skin (aren't they all do that ?).
    Unfortunatelly, this doesn't suit me at all, so I'll give it a 7/10 for weirdness (which, btw. sometimes it work for me also !).

    30th January, 2012

    rating


    Touch for Men by Burberry

    Revisiting this fragrance as it stayed from long time in my want list: another good example of the fact that over the years the sense of smell, if you train it properly, will grow with your experience. As a result I don't want it anymore cause now it's reminding me of other things I have or disliked.
    Starts bitter-aromatic with very clear accords of violet leaf, artemisia and some petitgrain combined with black pepper and that's where my enthusiasm finished...after that it becomes bitter-sweet-musky and annoying with a lot of tonkabean, nutmeg & cedar reminding me - as others reviewers stated - of Armand Basi Homme (better-I have it), YSL Body Kouros (much better-I want it) and what I didn't stand in JPG Le Male.
    This recent descovered redundancy made me wonder what I've liked from Burberry Touch in the first place and the answer is simple: I remebered as pleasant only the first 10 minutes (not enough). I'm glad I tested it again and didn't buy it from impulse since I discovered better fragrances (Armand Basi Homme, YSL Body Kouros). My rank 7/10.

    30th January, 2012

    rating


    Rush for Men by Gucci

    This is one of the few discontinued fragrances that I was looking very hard to find, reading so many reviews about how good it is (was).
    So there it is....a nice tester bottle quarter full sitting below the desk in a small perfumery shop. Raving to try it, I've put a super large spritz on my wrist and wait the result:
    In the first minute I was overwhelmed by the spicy-dry smell coming most probably from lavender-cypress-juniper combination, that after only a few minutes evolved in a smooth, soft & little incensy sandalwood-cedar accord.
    Here it became very very similar to Azzaro Visit, one of my most preferred, only that Rush is less intense and sweet (fresher).
    Until I left the shopping area 30 minutes later, the fragrance reached its drydown with more santal and some patchouli/musk traces, in a faint smell.
    What can I say in conclusion: overall I liked it, being a dry spicy-woody frag, but unfortunatelly the longevity was really poor and sillage barelly detectable after 10 minutes.
    In a way I'm glad I didn't pay an arm & a leg for it blindly when I had the chance. I love Visit and I'm sure it has much more longevity & sillage than Rush, which, as other reviewers said, could be an option released in a more intense version.

    30th January, 2012

    rating


    cK One Shock for Him by Calvin Klein

    After the forgettable CKIn2U series, this new flanker of Ck One grabbed my attention today and I must admit this is very good: sweet citruses with a touch of lavender and some pepper hits you right from the beginning.
    What follows in the next 2-3 hrs is an oriental spicy accord, very nice in fact, with patchouli, tobacco and little basil stated here, still fruity-spicy in background.
    Dry down is woody-ambery, completing the whole in a sweet and pleasant way. A nice surprise and a certain future buying to take into consideration. My rank 7.7/10.

    12th January, 2012 (Last Edited: 18th January, 2014)

    rating


    Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera

    Fruity-citrus opening, but not the normal take on citruses start like in other fresh fragrances - this one feels very special cause of watermelon which appears clear and nice surrounded by a slight bitter fruity feeling. Addictive indeed, as other user mentioned.

    On my skin, this initial feeling stayed more than 2 hours, slowly merging into a spicy & little sweet middle that combined with the fruity notes remained from opening create a beautiful and relaxing aura.

    The base is very similar to Carolina Herrera for Men and 212 Men base notes, almost like a combination of best notes from each one.

    A hit in my nostrils guide, above average sillage and longevity and definitely a must have for me. My humble rank 8.8/10.

    14th December, 2011

    rating


    Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

    One of the 90's classic in my book: strong & aromatic, oily, musky, pretty masculine without a doubt. Maybe a close definition of what woody-floral-musk types used to be.
    The combination of notes is stunning, I also get that gasoline starting feel but shortly after it reveals in his beauty and complexity, giving you a "debonair" feeling of mature gentleman.
    Two of my old good friends use it as their signature so I stayed away from it too long...now it's my turn :)
    Climbed easily in my top 10 even if I don't have that brunet skin type best suited for this juice.
    It stays with me all day long (with 4-5 sprays), evolving, intriguing me, making me confident.
    My humble rank 8.8/10.

    14th December, 2011

    rating


    Antaeus by Chanel

    Tested finally for real, meaning two good shots on both of my wrists. The result: I felt myself surrounded by a manly, leathery, dry, bitter-dark vale with a touch of the 80's glory.
    All the notes seems, after a while, perfectly blended together, for short time some of them like patchouli, thyme, coriander, or oakmoss rising their head to make noticed their presence in the wonderful whole, masterfully wrapped in a gorgeous french labdanum & rose aura.
    I almost was off put by the initial burst, but I was patient and rewarded after: the middle and the base were heavenly for me, ones of the best I experienced in a men's fragrance until now !.
    In my 'love' and 'wanted' list. My humble rank 9/10.

    14th December, 2011

    rating


    Joop! Homme by Joop!

    An original fragrance till today and one of the unique smells that survived these years.

    Unfortunately, I really loved the first 5 minutes (citric and orange flower, very nice) and pretty hated the forward development. Sweet flowers, sticky, with an overall cherry feeling, surrounded by a synthetic cinnamon-vanilla-patchouli combo, indeed too much for me.

    It has its own merits and I can see this pleasing others, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't suit me.
    My rank 7/10 (for originality and sillage).

    14th December, 2011

    rating


    La Nuit de L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    One of my recent favorites (I like it even more than Le Parfum version) and one of the most beloved fragrance in our days among recent releases (none btw never impressed me too much: check The One Gentleman, John Richmond, Azzaro Decibel... etc.).
    A romantic/sweet/sexy/...you name it!...take on the original (also very good) which plays more with sweet spicy notes like cardamom or coumarin and woody aromatic notes like cedarwood and vetiver, giving you a smooth exotic aura that surrounds you and make you feel modern, sexy and cool, ready to enjoy what the night has to offer you.
    Good longevity and most important good projection (at least on my skin): I enjoyed every minute of the 7-8 hrs, with strong sillage in the first 2-3 hrs.
    Definitely a must have for me. My humble rank 8.7/10.

    14th December, 2011

    rating


    Brit for Men by Burberry

    A powdery decent woody fragrance that starts off directly with a blast of sweet fruity spiciness (ginger, bergamot & nutmeg) and almost instantly the rose(wood) come along together with cedar and tonka-bean. On my skin it remained softly/sweet/woody/powdery for the next 5-6 hrs. Not bad at all.
    For a few moments I clearly smelled a Davidoff Zino softer clone, without the macho allure and 80's style of the last.
    I love Zino, it's one of my signature scents and Burberry Brit it's just a young, fresher shadow of it, so normally I shouldn't feel drawn to, but there is something "je ne sais quoi" with Brit that keeps me wanting more..."you want to feel young, free and careless again, isn't it?" should someone to whisper...
    Anyway, a "will buy at a good deal" fragrance for me and a deserving rank of 8.5/10 for this young style smelling bottle.

    14th December, 2011

    rating


    Kenzo Pour Homme Boisée / Woody by Kenzo

    I mostly consider it as a very fresh-aromatic-vetiver fragrance with spicy additions of black pepper at middle and soft cedarwood at dry down.
    Mu first thought after I tried it on my skin was like a combination of the smooth vetiver of Lalique Encre Noir's drydown with the spicy pepper of Burberry The Beat and some strong mint/basil fresh feeling thrown in it.
    I love Kenzo Jungle and hated Kenzo Tokyo, while Kenzo Air left me flat, but this one is the best creation of japanese house with the magic genius touch of Oliver Polge, of course!. My rank 8.5/10. Good stuff.

    14th December, 2011

    rating


    Obsession Night for Men by Calvin Klein

    I didn't like at all original Obsession so that's probably why I didn't try this Night version until this autumn.
    An interesting, modern & gentle fragrance that starts off with a sweat pear/cardamom blast and a dash of bitter-herbal feel (grapefruit/artemisia) that dives slowly in the next 20-30min. in an oriental combination of woody-spicy notes...nutmeg, vanilla and patchouli all reported present here...very nice, perfect for a night out in the summer-fall or a cold rainy day.
    Good longevity (5-8 hrs.), average projection.
    Glad I didn't pass by it. My rank 8.5/10.

    14th December, 2011

    Showing 1 to 30 of 34.




Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000