I have the pure parfum of Azzaro and I used to also have Azzaro edp. I'm very found of it. Azzaro Couture original was composed in 1975 by Maurice Thiboud (according to Grain de Musc). The demonstration bottle I used to have listed the following notes: "Principaux Composants": rose, tuberose, gardenia, jacinthe, jasmin, ylang ylang, iris, vetiver, sandal, coriander, peche, ambre gris, musc, civette.
To my nose Azzaro smells like an old school floral chypre-, or perhaps fruity chypre so I'm sure it also contains at least a few more chypre elements like oakmoss and and a little mote of patchouli. The complex blend is difficult to break down into individual notes but it has a very balanced content of both floral and animalistic notes firmly grounded with moss and woods.
The pure perfume is darker but also smoother than the edp. The peach inside is more pronounced and it doesn't have the freshness that usually comes with the peach, but the delicious silky sweetness (like in Mitsouko extrait) slightly spiced with coriander. The perfume is even more animalistic from the high content of civet. While the edp is brightened by aldehydes and has some amount of powdery iris which creates a noticable trail, the perfume has rarely any aldehydes and the amount of powdery notes are low so the perfume stays much closer to the skin.
I read somewhere that this beautiful creation was Loris Azzaros signature, so I guess it might work very well as an unisex perfume.
23rd July, 2014 (last edited: 24th July, 2014)
I was surprised to see how low Nuit Indiennes was rated here, and so few positive reviews? I have the EdP and I find it magical, but I haven't tried the Edt so I can't speak for that one. Nuits Indiennes EdP is one of few bottles in my collection I will buy again if ever dare to finish these precious drops.
The top begins with a polite puff of aldehydes followed by fruity notes of mandarine and peach. Then the flowers joins the composition adding beautiful notes of lilac, heliotrope, jasmine, Ylang Ylang and rose. The basenotes are woody and sweet from vanilla, benzoin and tonka. Civet adds an animalistic note to the composition, in quite a good dose. It's a warm, sweet, cozy and animalistic fragrance best used in the colder season.
Nuit Indiennes is a well balanced, multi layered sweet and woody floriental with enhanced basenotes and a civet bite. Beeing a floriental, it's not at all spicy but the sandalwood and cedar brings beautiful notes to the composition. I'll give it a 5/5.
Omar Sharif pour Femme is a very dark floral, almost an oriental, that feels very unisex. A tad of sweetness that reminds me of dark honey dwells in its heart surrounded by a potent jasmine and rose. Perhaps it is the rosewood that creates that dark masculine note that paralells the flowers and a green narcissus note.
This fragrance is very rare and hard to find. I consider it a masterpiece.
Notes: Released: 1990. Concept: Floral. Headnotes: Bergamot oil, Fruit Notes, Green Note, Orange Blossom, Rosewood. - Middlenotes: Jasmin, Narcissus, Orris, Rose, Tuberose, Ylang-Ylang. - Basenotes/Drydown: Amber, Musk, Sandal.
Nose: Francoise Caron.
10th March, 2012 (last edited: 14th March, 2012)