 | Tahitian Gardenia by PacificaSmells like summer! This is a fun, sunny, lightly green & mostly "white flowers" fragrance. I enjoy it more that I thought I would as white flowers tend to bore me. Tahitian Gardenia never gets too prim or soapy, and is not sweet. It does have a very brief green-sap gardenia presence at the opening with some very light citrus - probably bergamot, maybe a dash of petitgrain, but it mostly burns down do a nice, linear, neutral jasmine - green - soft orange blossom thing with just a bit of LOTV. The drydown gets a bit of that generic fragrance musk, but overall it keeps its summery white flowers aroma for a long time. It is very similar to the Badgley Mischka Fleurs de Nuit and also the Calypso Christianne Celle Chevrefuille, both of which have a little more presence and complexity. The price is pretty unbeatable at $26 a bottle or less - a cheap and fun splurge. The solid perfume and body butter smell good too. 15th June, 2010. |
| | Rose Barbare by GuerlainRose Barbare is simply gorgeous. You can sense the nod to Guerlain's Nahema, but in a modern format with a dark velvet cloak of patchouli and mossy accords to coddle the honey-rose. It is definitely unisex. The Guerlain connection is obvious and respectable. B-u-u-u-u-t I smell something more close in style, wear, and overall smell to this dark rose: a VERY close association to the sadly discontinued L'Arte di Gucci. Yes, if you love L'Arte and lament is passing, or even if you have never smelled it/owned it and wished you had, Rose Barbare is your best option and it is glorious in it's own right. I am fortunate to have about 1 oz of L'Arte di Gucci edt and it is breathtakingly gorgeous. Rose Barbare instantly reminds me of the luscious, wet, "round", intense rose, and the sensual warm honey-patchouli base. The patchouli is completely similar, as are the use of other "dark" notes. There are occasional breaths of sweetness from Rose Barbare that are not in L'AdG, but they are absolutely sisters separated at birth. Rose Barbare wears very smooth, very radiant, very consistently with lots of beautiful velvety rose, lots of smooth patchouli and moss notes, all seemlessly blended. It is warm and sensuous, and almost as three dimensional as Nahema. But one look of Rose Barbare in the mirror shows L'Arte di Gucci's ghost staring right back. Try Rose Barbare-- it is a beautifully done, sensuous dark rose, but its clear resemblance to L'Arte di Gucci should be acknowledged. 9th April, 2010. |
| | Mariella Burani by Mariella BuraniI started wearing MB many years ago when it first came out and when I was living in Portland OR. The fragrance always makes me think of beautiful sunny PAC NW summers... MB is supremely wearable, sunny, happy "classic" style aldehyde floral with a wonderfully warm base. I do smell the connection to No 5 which does indeed seem uptight in comparison. And I love No 5 in perfume form, and also No 5 eau Premier. MB is kissing cousins to the relatively sunny and more floral No 5 eau Premier. MB is like No 5 took a villa in Italy for the summer, broke out the sundress, forgot the sunscreen, and ran around barefoot in an ancient garden. 6th April, 2010. |
| | Une Zeste de Rose by Les Parfums de RosineUZdR is a sparkling rose & citrus scent. A little bit on the sweet side, but mostly effervescent and fun. The opening starts with a burst of lemon citrus, and eventually the lemon moves away to a calm background note - maybe a little sugary at this point as limoncello is sugary. The rose is present throughout the development - a soft light sweet rose - and is thoroughly delightful. A tea accord is definitely present in the middle of development and sticks around for the most part well into the drydown. The lasting power is about medium 2-3 hours, and it has light sillage. It is a joy to reapply, and it is one of those fragrances (as with an eau de cologne) when you can apply liberally and still enjoy - you won't bowl anyone over with Zeste de Rose. Just delightful. It is nice to wear a light citrus-floral that doesn't descend into the usual bag of tricks - no aromachem-musk drydown here. 2nd April, 2010. |
| | Ninféo Mio by Annick GoutalNinfeo Mio is everything I've ever looked for in a cologne/fougere or even a "green" floral, and I just adore green florals. It is another classic, naturalistic, understated masterpiece from Annick Goutal. It is just breathtaking, and I was all prepared to hate it since I normally think boxwood smells like cat pee, and it is present, but the entire composition is so well balanced and tempered, that the boxwood accord only plays one part in a symphony of naturalistic garden-like notes and accords. 30th March, 2010. |
| | Timbuktu by L'Artisan ParfumeurSmells to me a little bit of the creamy depth of Habanita (but no smoke), and a little bit of the sunny cheer of Jardin sur le Nil (but no citrus)... Vetiver always jumps right out at me, so Timbuktu is mostly very green vetiver to me with a nice dash of florals and woods to keep it from being boring. It is both sheer and deep at the same time with all the warmth brought on with the well balanced woods and incense. The vetiver is wonderfully done - the entire fragrance really lasts for many hours with medium warm sillage. The development gets a bit linear at the end, but still great. I think this could be worn all year round, and absolutely unisex. It smells fantastic! 6th January, 2010. (Last Edited: 26th March, 2010.) |
| | Coromandel by ChanelI am very impressed with the overall quality, structure and beauty of Coromandel. It is just stunning. I can see other's comparison to the original Prada for women, though Coromandel is much ligher on its toes and is a much softer, more elegant composition. The richness of the spices and patchouli is just simply perfection. Coromandel is dry and dusty, and yet warm and spicy at the same time. It never gets clausterphobic as other major patchouli fragrances. Definitely unisex, very classy and stunning, elegant yet cozy. It keeps good company with other major patchouli orientals such as Frederic Malle's Noir Epices, and indeed, the sheer shimmering frankincense and liquory body reminds me very much of Amouage Lyric for Women. It smells completely different, but it gives me the same vast, warm, aromatic and expansive feeling I get when I wear Tauer's L'Air du Desert Marocain. Definitely my favorite of all the Les Exclusifs. Definitely worth testing for patchouli lovers. 16th December, 2009. (Last Edited: 26th March, 2010.) |
| | Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic MalleNoir Epices is spectacularly gorgeous. I rank it now waa-ay up on my list of HG's with Nahema, Lyric Woman, vintage Magie Noire, Mitsouko parfum, etc.... Noir Epices is simply elegant, sophisticated, rich, incredibly well done fragrance. It opens for me with very rich aldehydes, geranium, and honeyed rose notes. I don't get much of the orange... but then an amazing aroma of dense, rich spices -- especially the nutmeg and cinnamon -- partners up with the rose, buttery sandalwood, and patchouli drydown. It is amazing stuff. Definitely unisex. Noir Epices is tremendous for cool weather especially. Anyone who has enjoyed something like Chanel's Coco or even Rose en Noir by Miller Harris should try Noir Epices. 3rd November, 2009. |
| | Mitsouko by GuerlainMitsouko is stunning. I won't bother repeating what everyone else has already said. Please do yourself a favor and don't even bother to test the edt version which is kind of screechy and hard to take. Go right for the edp or the parfum extrait if you want to smell the most stunning, timeless, complex and yet simple fragrance that was ever created. It is soft, sophisticated, elegant and somehow natural - like soft leather and shimmering golden leaves in the fall. It took a while for me to go head over heels for Mitsouko, but it was worth the wait. I made the mistake of testing the edt first. Once I smelled the edp on my skin I was a goner. 22nd September, 2009. |
| | Amazone (original) by HermèsAmazone is really classy stuff! It smells like Givenchy III, Chanel No 19, Chanel Pour Monsieur, Lancome's Climat, Guerlain's Chamade and PdN's Temps d'Une Fete all got together, decided to combine the best of all their parts, and this is the fantastic result: Green, smooth, utterly impeccable, classy floral/green-chypre. Amazone is absolutely unisex and one of those anytime, anyplace go-to "white shirt" fragrances. I especially like the earthy, almost smokey oakmoss and vetiver that grounds it more than its more ethereal & floral cousins. It has a late summer "meadow & dried leaves" accord that is fantastic. A must-try for green chypre lovers. 7th August, 2009. |
| | Theorema by FendiTheorema is the most chic, sophisticated, almost restrained and yet sensual oriental. It is a gorgeous composition of orange, vanilla, spices and woods. I primarily get the rich and warm woods on my skin paired with the lighter and slightly sweet orange-vanilla accord. The opening is lush and warm, and the dry down is very sensual and stays close to the skin. Theorema is a very confident, intelligent oriental, absolutely wonderful stuff that is just as fitting to the board room as an elegant black tie affair. It speaks to the person wearing it very much. I say "person" as I think that a man could easily wear Theorema too - it is so well blended, classy and warm. There is nothing showy about Theorema - it is very self-possessed. There is nothing silly about this composition. Find it where you can and wear it with lots of pleasure. Anyone who enjoys the boisterous Badgley Mischka, the exuberant Mauboussin, the sensual orange of Fath de Fath, the woody-vanilla Organza Indecence, or the extreme drydown of the sensual DK Chaos would enjoy Theorema from top to bottom. 7th August, 2009. |
| | Tea Rose by Perfumer's WorkshopThe original rose fragrance to end all rose fragrances! Who didn't wear this in the 80s? It still holds its own as a respectable, very affordable, and very tenacious rose soliflore. It is one of the very few decent and fresh rose florals that can stand up to miserably hot and humid weather. Tea Rose has impressive staying power, and smells of a garden fresh hybrid tea rose with nice green notes. Tea Rose does not dry down to an annoying sweet or musk base as so many other rose blends do. There are no discernable spices or woods. It is just rose rose rose, and very linear. Tea Rose has massive sillage, so only a wee bit is necessary, and it lasts forever. One $13 bottle of this would last you the rest of your life! A classic fragrance bargain and a must try for major rose lovers. 3rd July, 2009. |
| | Mauboussin by MauboussinA tremendously pleasant vanilla-fruit oriental that is light as gossamer but with a rich warm woodsy spicy base that never becomes cloying or too simple. Very very well done - more interesting than Givenchy Organza Indecence, and leagues lighter than the relatively heavy yet pleasant Badgley Mischka. If you enjoy rich vanillas but find even well done vanillas too boring and want something lighter than Badgley Mischka this one deserves serious attention. It is just a joy to wear, and could be worn all year round because of it's sheer nature. An excellent all around oriental. 3rd July, 2009. |
 | Quel Amour! by Annick GoutalI don't want to totally pan this fragrance because I'm sure it smells great on some people. But for me it had too much of a sweet "red fruit" fragrance like strong pomegranates, and unfortunately rather than being zesty, just smelled like nice air freshener. You can tell though that they used nice quality source materials. This must be delightful for some people, and I dare say even a good masculine for the right guy who could pull it off due to the unisex soap accord. I strongly advise to test first. 3rd July, 2009. |
 | Nuits Enchantées by Laura MercierThis smelled horrible to me - a sour mish-mash of coffee and spice cabinet. It could be that I am anosmic to a sweet musk (the vanilla musk?) in it that would smooth it out. I definitely recommend testing this one. 23rd June, 2009. |
| | Bulgari Black by BulgariIf I had never seen the bottle or read the marketing for this fragrance, this is what I would say about it: Black is L'Heure Bleue lacking the florals and moody romanticism, but with an obstinant, self-assured voice....BB reminds me very much of my favorite parts of L'Heure Bleue without all the tricky stuff that sometimes makes it hard to wear. I think that Black is definitely unisex and is a well done powdery tea fragrance with a sweet powdery amber and vanilla drydown. I smell something a little like anise in there too. And rather than tar or rubber, what I smell is like a dry spice that is heated up to the point of being on fire - just before it starts to burn - actually the smell of something just about to burn. I think that makes it a little sexy underneath all the simplicity of notes. It is not as aggressive as the marketing and packaging would have you imagine. 10th June, 2009. |
| | Love's Baby Soft by Love'sLove's Baby Soft is fun, simple, pretty and a big bargain. Anyone who doesn't see the beauty in this one has no sense of humor...When I was 10, LBS set me on the path to all my favorite powders that are leagues more sophisticated. LBS is great for what it is. 27th May, 2009. |
| | Cristalle Eau Verte by ChanelCristalle eau Verte is an intensely soapy green floral that only magnifies it's presence with time. It is not as sophisticated as I would have expected from Chanel, and not as brilliant a re-working as the No 5 eau Premier. Cristalle eau Verte is not pleasant to wear - maybe it's just not for me. I'd take the original Cristalle (even with it's swampy leather drydown) over eau Verte any day because the original Cristalle has tons of personality and character, especially in the magnificent opening. Just skip it altogether and stock up on the original Cristalle or buy some vintage Chanel No 19 or Parfums de Nicolai Temps d'Une Fete instead. 26th May, 2009. |
| | Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat by GuerlainThis fragrance flattened out on me very quickly after an initial burst of bracing bergamot and citrus - it reminds me very much of Annick Goutal's Les Nuites d'Hadrien which I also had trouble wearing. The cedar is tricky on me. I recommend testing this one first.... 26th May, 2009. |
| | Le Maroc pour Elle by TauerI completely agree with Caltha's review - total headshop. Though for me it is not so unbearable -- it is rich and deep with an excellent jasmine in the middle. The rich heady jasmine reminds me very much of the jasmine in Annick Goutal's Songes even though in all other respects the fragrance is completely different. This fragrance is very well done for what it is and deserves to be tested - and it is nothing like L'Air which is breathtaking. Maroc has a place, like many, in my overall fragrance wardrobe as something I would wear once in a while for a particular mood. It has a lot of atmosphere and personality. Whereas the "heashop incense" is a thinner, cheaper version of exotic places, Maroc has a rich, deep, full aspect of all the roses, spices, jasmine, patchouli, etc., that makes me imagine I've just arrived at some old, closed up spice shop in Tunisia. I mostly smell dried roses, jasmine, and dark patchouli in the manner as Bal a Versailles but without the civet and other skanky notes. The jasmine in the heart notes is particularly beautiful, and the patchouli is dark in the dry down, but very pleasant compared to the cleaned up version of patchouli finding its way into many current fragrances. I give this a thumbs up though because it is well done for all of what otherwise is imitated in cheaper hippie products. It needs to be worn with confidence, and I say for a man who thinks he can wear Mitsouko, Voleur de Roses, Nahema, etc, go for it - a judiciously applied amount would be great on a man. 25th May, 2009. |
| | mb02 by Biehl Parfumkunstwerkemb02 is a lovely, if not fleeting, floral that smells very much like equal parts Apres L'Ondee and YSL Paris, with a nice dash of crushed pepper. Definitely worth exploring. 13rd May, 2009. |
| | hb01 by Biehl Parfumkunstwerkehb01 opens with gorgeous floral accords, but is hindered by something a bit sour and "day old" in the middle and base notes, which must be cumin because sometimes I think it smells like leftover Mexican food. The dry down morphs the fragrance into something that smells like a men's fragrance...but still with that persistent sour note. 13rd May, 2009. |
| | eo01 by Biehl Parfumkunstwerkeeo01 is a soft, lovely comfort scent that smells a lot like nutmeg and rice pudding. It is very pretty while it lasts, which isn't long. 13rd May, 2009. (Last Edited: 14th October, 2009.) |
| | Absolu by RochasA nice, well done light spices and sweet vanilla fragrance...like other nice, well done light spices and sweet vanilla fragrances. 13rd May, 2009. |
| | 24, Faubourg by HermèsThis fragrance is magnificent, but not always easier to wear. The structure is opulent, rich, and very sophisticated -- a less is more approach is good. The opening florals are very dense and almost make you want to run away from it, but the drydown is magnificent, rich, warm and ambery. It is absolutely worth the wait, and it lasts forever. I highly recommend everyone test this at least once to know what a stunning composition it is. And while it doesn't smell anything alike these others, it is of the same dense, classic orientals as Boucheron Femme, Coco Chanel, and the original Salvador Dali fragrance. 13rd May, 2009. |
| | Neroli by Laura MercierThis is a very nice and pretty orange blossom fragrance - light, a wee bit sweet, with a hint of fresh flowers and limoncello like accords, with a light vanilla base. A very nice floral orange blossom for the price point. Not as rich as something like Dilmun and not as traditional and soapy as Nocturnes. A modern feminine orange blossom that is very enjoyable to wear, and does indeed smell like fresh orange blossoms without any actual madarin or orange juice accords to deepen it. It's a real mood lifter too. I highly recommend it for those seeking orange blossoms that don't veer into the direction of colognes. 12nd May, 2009. |
| | Donna Karan Essence: Labdanum by Donna KaranVery rich and dry with just a hint of "aged wood" to it. It maintains a dry raspy quality and performs beautifully with excellent sillage and drydown. It is a bit linear, as one expects from an essence that may be blended. However, woods always do well with development on the skin, and that can vary from person to person. It does well on its own, and would make an outstanding masculine - it's absolutely unisex. I recommend testing first. 12nd May, 2009. |
| | Wild Lavender / Inglese by Lorenzo VilloresiWild Lavender is an excellent, naturalistic lavender. It has good lasting strength. It falls more into the bracing category than the comforting category (in which Annick Goutal's eau de Lavande is more appropriate). It is indeed a bit wild - you can almost smell the fresh wind whipped air when you put it on. But it is not harsh or difficult to wear. A must try for lavender lovers. 12nd May, 2009. |
| | Iris Poudre by Editions de Parfums Frederic MalleThe opening of Iris Poudre is one of the most beautiful fragrance openings ever - the powdery iris is just magnificent. However, after a bit there is an abrupt switch to the vanillic middle and base notes, which become less impressive, and a bit "cool" in tone. It is by no means awful, and is still a very beautiful fragrance, but the drydown leaves me a little disenchanted. Iris Poudre is like a gorgeous woman who looks amazing and comes on with huge amounts of charm, only to turn out to actually be kind of regular once you get to know her. I still think it is one of the better examples of this style and is a very worthwhile addition to anyone's fragrance wardrobe. 12nd May, 2009. |
| | Fath de Fath by Jacques FathA very pretty, rich, warm vanilla with some spices and orange notes. If you can still find it, I recommend it for warm vanilla and spice lovers. It is nothing extraordinary, but it seems very modern considering when it was originally developed. 12nd May, 2009. |
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