Fragrance Reviews by Apicius

I would describe this scent as woody-minty-spicy. With lots of woods (cedar and sandalwood)

Although mint is not listed; it is somehow a little astringent (menthol? eucalypthus?). I do not smell any flowers.

If you like woody perfumes, you might give it a try. I think it's OK but not a must have at least for me.

No, the novel Querelle by Jean Genet is not about masochistic lust, homosexual rape, blackmail and murder as one reviewer has stated. It is about the aesthetical transition of these aspects into holiness!
It is known that Jean Genet once had been falsly accused of theft as a child. Based on this trauma, he identified himself with what his contemporaries would consider the evil. In his work, he tried to describe the beauty of this with almost religious addiction.

The perfume Querelle has captured exactly this attitude. Yes, it is masculine in a way that it could make one imagine a sweaty sailors body at work. But then, there is also something very "catholic", like clouds of burning incense, myrrh and other narcotizing secret ingredients
wafting through the temple of some esoteric cult, dedicated to transfer the worshippers into religous extasy (though, it is not a churchlike incense like in Messe de Minuit). This contradiction is definetely what makes this fragrance be a thrill.

I wonder what was first: the perfume that required an apropriate name or the concept of a perfume named Querelle?

This vetiver starts just as any citrusy take on vetiver, but soon some woody notes emerge. There is a kind of bitter incensy note in all Tauer perfumes (which I do not like in particular) that also plays a part in here. So, it is definately Tauer.

The Lily of the valley stays in the background but attenuates the rather harsh and grassy vetiver note.

I am always curious about vetivers that contain other aspects such as floral notes as a counterpart. But I have to admit, this one does not impress me much.

I could not find a pyramid on the internet, so I rely on my own nose.

Millesimé is a citrus scent. Some citrus (lemon, maybe lime) is put together with berries, maybe blackcurrant which gives it a touch of candies. Below, there is something that seems to be a coffee note.

Although this melange sounds horrible it works! The berry note makes the citrus more interesting, and the coffee provides some substance. It is a bit along the line of Aqua di Parma scents, but coffee instead of coniferous notes makes a remarkable difference.

Longevity is not great but OK. Develops quite linear. I use it as an office scent.

I tested it without knowing the notes as given by odysseum, and I got a somewhat different impression on my skin.

The top notes instantly reminded me of homemade fruit in rum, then a more distinct note of dried plum, but without beeing sweet. The plum note during the drydown. Finally, a leathery note takes over.

It is neither overly sweet nor opulent, but definately gourmand. I do not know what provides this, but there is also something in it that has a cooling effect like menthol (but there is no menthol smell in it).

Definately nothing I would like to wear very often, but maybe occasionally. The only dried fruit gourmand scent I like so far.

A light herbal green scent with a twist towards classic cologne style fragrances like Guerlains' Eau Imperiale or Penhaligons' Castile (especially it the citrusy topnote) - but so much more up to date!

What I do not like about it is its is availablility in a rather ugly and impractical 6 oz.(!) aluminium bottle. I will probably have to pass it to my heirs.

This fragrance is difficult to use. It can be overapplied very easily. The point is that the scent does not appear very strong to the person who wears it but to everyone else around. It must somehow anaesthetise the olfaction.

I think it was introduced obviously before the use of synthetics became common in the perfume industry, at least it gives me the impression that it is still all natural. Extremely good, especially considered that low price!

They offer a wide range of products in that line and for a more discreet scent, even the pre-shave is sufficient.

Hmm. This was definately a beautiful scent when it was introduced and for years after. But I think nowadays there is obviously a cheap synthetic copy of this scent in certain germicides that are used in public lavatories. What a pity! I think it is not wearable any longer.

No, this is much over the top. Lime and oud are so far away from each other that it is probably not possible to bring them together. And this combination of sour and bitter lime with oud is really nauseating. Turns more bearable when the lime gets weaker during the drydown, but still very harsh and unpleasant.

For me, this is the worst of Montale's ouds together with Red Aoud. Strange to find adorable scents like Steam Aoud or BA next to this horrible stuff in the same line!

In a "flowers for men" perfume series, I would expect floral notes being opposed by some other notes rather than being accompanied by them. XPEC Original (tuberose against thyme and a dark ambratic base), Touregh (rose against nutmeg and pepper), Black Tie (rose against saffron) are very interestant examples for that style. However, Mr.Morris takes a different approach.

Here, the rose is embedded in a not too dark base of amber, musk, patchouly, sandalwood and oakmoss typical for Neil Morris fragrances. As the scent develops, the rose steps back even further. Though it is still there one would not necessarily identify it.

For me, this rose scent is very laid-back. Perfect for a lazy day off.

I do not like fig scents, but I like vetivers. Here, the vetiver is perfectly balanced by the fig, resulting in a somewhat odd, but elegant and IMO quite unique fragrance. It is definetely not a clone of Guerlain's or any other straightforward vetiver. Instead, it is an attempt to reduce the harshness of genuine vetyver. Although the approach is different, I would put in in a row with Annick Goutals' Vetyver, Montales' Red Vetyver Terre d'Hermes and maybe Kenzoair. Very well done!

My impression I get from this scent:

Imagine a Frankfurt kitchen (designed in 1926 for people with low income) in a 1926 bauhaus style building. A warm evening sun shines throught the window, illuminating a bakelite bowl on the kitchen table filled with apples, bananas, apricots and plums. You approach the kitchen table. You notice the scent of the overripe fruits as you rouse all the hidden fruit flies.

Try if you like dried fruit scents.

I have tested more than half of the collection of Neil Morris Fragrances by now, but Fetish is by far the best and one of my top 5 favourite fragrances.

Actually, it is quite difficult to describe for me, maybe because the ingredients seem to blend together without having one distinctably standing out, or maybe just because of my lack of experience.

Fetish is extremely sweet, like marzipan, but there is also an earthiness/bitterness in it that I find particulary attractive. Especially with this effect I see a certain similarity to Dior Homme - only by style, not by ingredients.

It is definately too distinct for office wear. So, I would recommend it rather for weekend or spare time. If you consider testing Neil Morris fragrances, do not forget to give this a try!

Aqua di Selva is an elegant classic green fragrance resembling strongly the scent of coniferous woods.

Am elderly friend of mine told me that it was very popular in Germany during the 1950's. Gay men used this fragrance as a kind of code. When this became widely known, the sales quantities dropped immediately and AdS almost vanished from the marked for decades.

Strange and somehow gourmand!

At first, I smell liquorice, maybe some fennel and ...funghi porcini! Then only porcini. Except for a hint of lavender, I do not smell any of the ingredients listed above, maybe beacause they are very well integrated so nothing stands out.

Well done, but I think you definately have to grow into this scent to find it wearable. Thumbs up for its originality!

XPEC describe this scent as "the green pastoral freshness of English meadows in early summer"

Indeed, it is a fresh, grassy floral bouquet of sunflower, furze, daisy and dandelion! Remarkably, it is not the overwhelming sweet and heavy style that so many floral perfumes share, but a totally different approach.
It reminds me a bit of L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme, but it is more natural.

XPEC is not very well known, so this is an insider's tip for spring and early summer.

Although marketed as a lady's perfume, the topnotes strongly resemble the scent of Trussardi Uomo. However, after a few minutes the musk takes over and provides a more conventional style.

Like so many others, this is a deceiver. If you test it, do not buy on first sniff, but give it some time to develop

Not bad! Spices and pepper give this perfume a hot, ardent and firm approach. Very straightforward. No florals but somehow fruity topnote. Starting sweet and becoming dust-dry after a while.

I agree with Sir Slarty that you can detect a patchouly note after a while.

Not my cup of tea. Although I like myrrh, I do not like it the way it is handled here. The florals and mainly lots of white musk overwhelm any myrrh.

Especially the opening reminds me of the smell of hairspray. After a few minutes, a very soapy musk takes control over the scent.

A green coniferous forest plus lots of mint, this is a refreshing experience. Unusual, but good!

A very delicious coffee note combined with patchouly - far too much patchouly.

Since I tend to get headaches from (natural) patchouly oil, sadly, I am not able to use this.

This is Gucci pour Homme minus the topnote, released years before.

Since the topnote of GpH is somewhat concealing what comes out later, I prefer to use this straightforward original.

A very distinct fresh acquatic, wearable both in summer and winter and perfect for a night out at a club.

Once - wearing this fragrance - I drove through an empty, frosty winter landscape in eastern germany when I noticed a buzzard or red kite right next to the country road. He had just put his fangs into a rabbit and was now defending his prey against the road traffic. He kept sitting there on his prey for days.

This fragrance is neither mellow nor overly light, instead it can provide you with a firm grip like a raptors'.

Typical green old gents' cologne, but very well done.

A true niche fragrance, somewhat eccentric, definetely non-standard, non-floral, dry and also vanillic due to the use of tonka bean.

There is an amount of bitterness and darkness in it that is irritating or even appalling. One cannot expect to love it on first sniff!

It is definetely not a gourmand scent, yet it gives me the impression of very dark cocoa, still ardent(e) from being freshly roasted.

Annick Goutal encourage their customers to experiment with layering their fragrances. Since Myrrhe Ardente is very distinct and also IMO does not development much during the drydown, I think it could be a good basis for such experiments. I suppose it layers quite well with some aquatic or green scents just to give it a counterpoint. Maybe Aventure by Il Profumo or a fig scent such as Philosykos or even Annick Goutal's Vetiver? Let's see...

Ingredients listed on Annick Goutal's Website:

Myrrh essence, tonka bean and benzoin, myrrh resin, guaiacum wood and vetiver, absolute essence of beeswax.

A vanilla scent. Dry and ethereal instead of sweet and mellow.
I really would like to give it a thumbs up but...
... after a few days I got an allergic skin reaction, probably due to the "Pure Air Transparent Molecule".

Beware!

I disagree with Joe_Frances that this was too feminine for a guy just because there is some rose in it. The heavy flowery (and maybe femine) note of yellow rose is balanced with a decent portion of nutmeg on a woody background. Anyway - who cares?

Yellow rose and nutmeg - for me these are the outstanding ingredients here - strange but intriguing!

It is easier to get this scent than to let this scent get you. I had tested it three or four times at the perfume shop before finally buying it. At first I thought it was quite nice. Then it appeared to me as a toned down version of Montale's Black Aoud and therefore unnessessary. Still I wanted to smell it the next time. I did not like the bitterness of the nutmeg. Then again I wanted to test it because it was so exceptional.

Finally it occured to me that I had become familiar with this fragrance and simply felt at home with it.

Longevity is OK and the scent develops rather linear. Aoud is not listed as ingredient but there is some subtle similarity, maybe due to the other woody components

L'homme sage is a black and white scent.

During all stages of development, the different notes of this perfume change constantly its character from pitch dark to an almost metallic white brightness - and back.

If you apply it to the skin, the darker aspects will prevail in the end. But if applied to a shirt, the brighter notes will remain after the drydown.

Black or white? It might attract those who cannot decide which side they are on.

Currently, I decide almost every day to wear it.

Private number for men is a discontinued 1990's scent, but still can be found in some online shops, now for a low price..

Back in the 90's a good friend of mine used to wear it and somehow it has kept on my mind since then. I have always remembered this scent as something extrordinary smooth, hardly comparable with any other scent I had known.

After I purchased it a few weeks ago and tested it on my skin my opinion about it now is ambivalent. I like the mild, slightly floral heart- and basenotes (musk, smooth gardenia?). Unfortunately, in the topnote, I smell one component that is quite disgusting, like too much nutmeg. However, this vanishes after half an hour, and then you have a very beautiful sunny day scent on your skin.

Since it brings back some memories for me, I am glad about my purchase, but I think it deserves a neutral rating.