Reviews by Oproust

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    Oproust
    United States United States

    Showing 31 to 60 of 83.
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    Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal

    I can't get past the root beer accord of Myrrhe Ardente. I confess, I'm a Coke Classic kind of guy, but I do enjoy a nice cold A & W once in a while. I was surprised to find the root beer descriptions of other reviewers to be more than just tongue in cheek pokes at MA. Myrrhe Ardente is smokey, resinous, spicy and yes, oriental. But in the end, there is not enough development. I grow tired of MA. I'm waiting for more but I just end up with a nose full of root beer bubbles. I'll give this one a neutral. Not bad, but it doesn't hold my interest.

    23rd December, 2011 (Last Edited: 24th December, 2011)

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    Eau des Baux by L'Occitane

    Eau des Baux is a woody, incense, oriental fragrance that is sweet but not quite gourmand to my nose. Up front, it reminds me of a dark castle, abandoned but filled with the smell of 1,000 years; burnt candles, incense, dry wood, echoes of a forgotten mythology. Soon Eau des Baux takes an abrupt turn, becoming a sweet vanilla dream that has more in common with a spice shop than a castle. When we reach the base, the mythology is long gone, but the attractiveness of this fragrance isn't. If you enjoy sweet fragrances with a hint of mystery in the prelude, this one is worth a try. Very nice.

    22nd December, 2011

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    l'eau de parfum #3 green, green, green and green by Miller et Bertaux

    Greenx4 opens with a bright verbena note layered with various "green" notes. A floral note emerges shortly into the progression, and at this point, I detect a resemblance to Chanel Eau de Cologne, one of the best eau de colognes available. Greenx4 begins to fade after about one hour, settling into a light musk base. As Greenx4 settles into the base, woody notes appear. At this time, the scent is so close to the skin that it is difficult to detect the emerging notes. As its name suggests, Greenx4 stays green. It reminds me of a stroll through the historic streets of Charleston, South Carolina during the spring; gardens, jasmine, beautiful architecture. I enjoy Greenx4, but I wish it had more staying power. Nice but fleeting, somewhat like a spur of the moment spring vacation.

    22nd December, 2011

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    Derby by Guerlain

    I'm not a huge leather fan, with the exception of leather bound books. I approached Derby with tenuous trepidation. So much has been said about Derby starting with the Turin "best of" lists. This review is of the reissued version. My first and last impression of Derby is leather, peppermint, and pepper. I also get a tobacco vibe, although it is not listed as a note. The mid notes soften the opening which is a bit too strong for my nose. Aromatics and florals push through in the mid notes, in conjunction with a distinct pepper note. Patchouli and oakmoss anchor the base. Aramis comes to mind when I wear Derby, not as a similar scent, but as a state of mind. Derby intrigues me with it's complexity and debonair demeanor. Derby is a gentleman's fragrance to be worn with confidence and distinction. Now, please excuse me while I Derby up and retire to my library where "Remembrance of Things Past" awaits me, in all its complex, leather bound glory.

    Updated on April 29th, 2014

    21st December, 2011 (Last Edited: 29th April, 2014)

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    New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

    New Haarlem is a superb woody oriental fragrance designed by the esteemed Maurice Roucel. Roucel also created the wonderful Rochas Man. I do not consider these two fragrances to be clones. New Haarlem is all about coffee, dark rich coffee exquisitely paired with a lavender-maple syrup accord and a cedarwood note that is a very effective bridge between the primary accords, while simultaneously providing a sturdy base for the entire structure. Rochas Man is centered on a lavender-chocolate accord, with a faint coffee sidekick. I agree with others that as the dry down occurs, New Haarlem more closely resembles Rochas Man. However, in the end, the the rich coffee note and how it gracefully interweaves with the vanilla note is what makes New Haarlem work so well. New Haarlem is a relatively complex scent, certainly more so than Rochas Man. I can't think of a more delicious gourmand than New Haarlem, although I'm open to suggestions, as I know they are legion.

    20th December, 2011

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    Ungaro III by Ungaro

    Ungaro III is a fresh aromatic fougere that opens with a citrus-lavender-vodka blend that evokes a nose-stinging gasoline vibe. As Ungaro III develops, a wood note peaks through the opening. At first sniff, I'm ready to dismiss Ungaro III. However, as the mid notes emerge, I find Ungaro III more attractive. The floral heart presents a beautiful rose note that is what Ungaro III is all about. The dry down is patchouli, oakmoss and plenty of vetiver. I enjoy Ungaro III, but the opening is shaky. It literally makes my nose sting. I love fougere fragrances, but Ungaro III is not at the top of my list. I prefer Tsar, Azzaro, and Jazz among others. Ungaro III isn't bad. I don't feel the whole gothic vibe, just a nice rose scent that is wearable but unremarkable.

    18th December, 2011

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    Fougère Royale by Houbigant

    Fougere Royale burst forth in 1882 and became the progenitor of the entire fougere family that flourishes to this day. Azzaro, Jicky, Paco Rabanne, and A Taste of Heaven are among the countless offspring of Fougere Royale. Fougere Royale opens with a zesty blend of citrus, lavender and chamomile. The chamomile note is distinct and outstanding. The mid notes take on a floral-herbal accord, with geranium prominent. The base notes are classic fougere, oakmoss and tonka bean. Patchouli and herbs hold down the base. Fougere Royale is a fresh, spicy, woody fragrance that I admire. However, I don't reach for it often, as there are many of its children lurking in the ferns, each holding a special piece of my heart. It is for these that my wrist yearns.

    18th December, 2011

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    Esencia Loewe by Loewe

    Loewe Escencia is a crisp, dry chypre that lives in the same neighborhood as Polo green, Polo Crest and similar scents. Escencia opens with a bracing lavender, citrus and artemisia accord that is one of my favorite chypre openings, though nowhere near Chanel pour Monsieur which is the finest on the planet. Escencia is a very attractive scent for those who enjoy Polo green and similar fragrances. The pine note in Esencia is just right. No pine cleaning products here. The mossy, leather dry down lasts for hours. The potency of Escencia mellows over time, like a forest tucking in for the evening. Esencia inhabits my kind of neighborhood: chypre, green, pine...maybe a Prius or two humming by.

    17th December, 2011 (Last Edited: 19th December, 2011)

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    Thé Vert / Green Tea by L'Occitane

    Outstanding summer fragrance. Reminds me a bit of Eau Sauvage up top. Notes are green tea, bitter orange, jasmine, cedar and thyme. The opening is a citrus, green tea and jasmine blend that oozes summer. As The Vert develops, a beautiful jasmine note takes center stage well into the mid notes, eventually dropping back behind the green tea centerpiece of this fragrance. The dry down is very nice, less floral and a hint of herbs. I don't detect any cedar, even though it is listed in the notes. The Vert is an outstanding unisex fragrance. Longevity is average. Recommended for summer wear.

    17th December, 2011

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    Worth pour Homme by Worth

    Worth pour Homme is the well-behaved and mannered kid brother of Paco Rabanne pour Homme. Both fragrances are aromatic fougeres. Worth has the classic lavender, coumarin (tonka), oakmoss fougere structure. Like its older brother, Worth pH has a soapy texture which subsides but never really disappears. Lavender and citrus are dominant in the opening, although rosemary plays a key role in Worth's development. The mid notes are green and floral. There is a distinct 1980's vibe to Worth, which I love, but others may not. I 've had people tell me it smells like an old man. I don't share that view. The dry down is leather, tonka and oakmoss. I get a sweet, dry, light musky sensation during the dry down. Worth holds its cards to its chest. It is not a sillage monster or an in your face projector. If you enjoy Paco Rabanne and similar fragrances you will lkely enjoy Worth. I prefer Worth to Paco Rabanne. Worth just feels more versatile, and well, younger.

    17th December, 2011

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    Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

    I've been on a sweet tobacco binge lately and Tobacco Vanille does not help me break this fixation. TV is a simple but great tobacco scent. Simple and to the point. Nothing real complicated or complex here. The opening is strong tobacco, cigar-like. TV is different than Pure Havane which is a smooth, cherry tobacco. Shortly into its progression, TV takes on a tobacco-tonka-spicy accord that helps restrain the tobacco from going too far for my nose to enjoy. When the vanilla and cacao drydown takes hold, I know this is a fragrance I can fall in love with. TV is a gourmand with a spicy tobacco disposition that won't leave you alone in a swirling blue haze of smoke. It may leave you in a blue haze with a stranger's snout planted firmly in your neck. No, that is not a vampire sniffing your neck, it's someone you really want to know.

    16th December, 2011 (Last Edited: 17th December, 2011)

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    Antaeus by Chanel

    Antaeus, the reigning god of chypre, introduces himself with a strong myrtle note accompanied by citrus and herbal accords. I find this opening attractive, if somewhat overpowering. Myrtle is not a note I smell frequently, but I do like its overall presentation in Antaeus. The mid notes of Antaeus are herbs and florals. The basenotes are where the gradual, magical transformation occurs. The beast is unleashed with a good dose of castoreum. Patchouli and oakmoss bring a dry warmth to Antaeus. The beeswax and labdanum accord is unique and provides enough sweetness to prevent Antaeus from becoming desolate and arid. Antaeus is a rich, warm, spicy, leathery and woody powerhouse that projects testosterone more than any of its listed notes. Wearing Antaeus makes you want to run for higher office, manage a hedge fund, or chop down a tree. Yes, its that kind of fragrance.

    14th December, 2011

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    M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

    Yes! Yes! Yes! M7, the rich oriental seducer! When I first started indulging my interest in fragrances, I stumbled upon a tester of M7. My nose did not know what to make of it, except that I found it intensely attractive. The citrus-rosemary opening spills into the agarwood and vetiver mid notes as M7 takes on a heavy, cherry accord before the woody notes ever so deftly move into the forefront. Some may find this medicinal and off-putting. However, in the case of M7, it's best to take your medicine and feel the well-being as it oozes through your pores and into your mind. M7 is a scent that isn't easily forgotten, for better or for worse. This is an unabashedly sexy, masculine fragrance that has so much to offer, if only you'll take your medicine.

    13th December, 2011

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    Jubilation XXV by Amouage

    I imagine the Three Wise Men wearing Jubilation XXV. This opulent fragrance is a superb oriental. The opening is a blend of blackberry and honey followed closely by frankincense. Wood notes soon emerge followed by myrrh and patchouli. The transitions between notes work surpisingly well for such a complex fragrance. I don't experience any screechy moments with Jubilation XXV. The drydown is a wonderful blend of patchouli-incense accord (prominent), opoponax, cedar and a hint of oud. However, there are more notes there than I can identify. This fragrance is one of the most complex, beautifully structured orientals I know. Very high-quality materials, masterful execution. My favorite of the Amouage line.

    13th December, 2011

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    Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone

    Jo Malone's Lime, Basil and Mandarin has a beautiful, bracing, citrus opening with a very pronunced lime note swimming just ahead of the mandarin orange and bergamot notes. This opening lasts about one-half hour before slipping behind the basil that bursts through the citrus accord and welcomes all who are near to the emerging herb garden. While I'm not a huge fan of basil, I find LBM's basil note to be acceptable. It its what the name says. The mid notes in LBM remind me somewhat of the mid notes in Polo Modern Reserve, a fragrance that is light years away from LBM in character and temperament. The emergence of patchouli really sells LBM. The basil becomes restrained which helps avoid a complete herbal takeover. I can easily see LBM in my summer rotation. A perfect fit for trips to my favorite Thai restaurant.

    11th December, 2011 (Last Edited: 12th December, 2011)

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    Rochas Man by Rochas

    Rochas Man, the woody oriental creation of Maurice Roucel, is a delicious gourmand that starts with a strong lavender note accompanied by green leaves and citrus. The lavender is long lasting until the coffee, vanilla and amber mid notes emerge, forming an oh so smooth and silky accord that tells you you've landed firmly in gourmand land. The mid notes also include a smattering of floral notes and a surprising milky accord. Rochas Man is basically a lavender, chocolate and vanillla fragrance. It is not dark coffee bitter like its fraternal twin New Haarlem, also of Roucel's making. Rochas Man is one of the better gourmands available and is relatively inexpensive. I find it to be a comforting scent, perfect to spray on after a long day at the office or after your favorite football team gets trounced by a lesser opponent. I enjoy gourmand fragrances and Rochas Man is near the top of my list. It really isn't prone to being trounced by its opponents, related or otherwise.

    10th December, 2011 (Last Edited: 20th December, 2011)

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    Giorgio for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills

    Giorgio Beverly Hills for Men is a powerhouse floral chypre that opens with a loud, orange and aldehydic blast. The opening might scare some folks away, since the sonic boom that Giorgio unleashes has been known to induce clenches. But stand fast and tall and this 1980's classic blossoms into a very pleasant fragrance. The more I wear Giorgio, the more I enjoy it. As it develops, Giorgio transitions from a heavily floral fragrance to one that is rich with patchouli and more florals, before peaking with a sweet oakmoss accord, consisting of (in addition to oakmoss), honey, vanilla and amber. The dry down is incredible, hands down the best part of the fragrance. Giorgio lasts forever on my skin and the sillage is exceptional (or unfortunate depending on your point of view). This type of fragrance is so out of the mainstream now that you may never smell another person wearing it. What a pity. Giorgio is a beautiful, masculine that deserves more than a home in the TJ Maxx bargain bin. I store mine on a launch pad, always ready to take this puppy for a ride, full throttle up.

    10th December, 2011 (Last Edited: 11th December, 2011)

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    Lanvin L'Homme by Lanvin

    Lanvin L'Homme does not agree with my nose. After a promising citrus opening, things go south. There is a sour note that emerges that I find unattractive. Lanvin L'Homme is not a bad fragrance. I can see why other reviewers enjoy it. The notes are promising, but the promise is not kept. This is not the type of fragrance I'm naturally drawn to. I'll skip this peppery, watery offering and place it in the neutral jar.

    10th December, 2011

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    Dunhill for Men by Dunhill

    Dunhill for Men is a fresh aromatic that has a wonderful blend of citrus, lavender, rose, carnation and leather, with a few other notes dancing around. My initial impression upon applying DfM was, "That smells like English Leather." I aksed a co-worker what she thought it smelled like and she said, "English Leather." Dunhlill is a decidedly superior fragrance, but I can't deny the likeness, at least up top. Dunhill's top notes start with a crisp lemon, lavender and herbal combination that is slightly soapy. The rose note in the mid notes combines with the citrus and lavender to create an Acqua di Parma Colonia-like accord. Although the two fragrances are from different spokes on the Fragrance Wheel, I do detect some similarities in the mid notes, mainly citrus and rose. The Dunhill drydown is predominantly leather to my nose, with a touch of vetiver. I don't get much tonka or cedar. Longevity isn't bad
    for an eau de cologne, approximately 6 hours on my skin, more on fabric. Dunhlill has a distinguished feel, similar in character and effect to Chanel Pour Monsieur and Eau Sauvage, but different in composition. Dunhill is perfect for formal occassions. It is dignified and commands respect, as does the person who wears it. This is a classic masculine act. Despite the Great Depression, 1934 gave us a winner in Dunhill for Men.

    09th December, 2011 (Last Edited: 24th December, 2011)

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    A*Men Pure Coffee by Thierry Mugler

    Pure Coffee is my least favorite of the A*Men progeny. Now don't get me wrong, that doesn't mean I wouldn't go fishing with the man. I like Pure Coffee but not enough. Where Pure Malt is a nostril burning streak of Kentucky and Pure Havane is a smooth cherry tobacco marvel and daddy A*Men is anything he wants to be, Pure Coffee is a bitter coffee concoction reminiscent of New Harrlem, but lacking in stamina. I love the strong coffee opening but wish it would last longer before diving into a skin scent with coffee (toned down to a whisper), patchouli, musk and a touch of vetiver and cedar. I might be willing to change my rating from neutral to thumbs up but it is totally dependent on how our long-planned fishing trip to Lake Superior goes. Largest fish gets to choose the final rating. I'm guessing I will be tricked into a thumbs up. Now where are my whiskey and cigars?

    UPDATE: After a candid conversation with Mr. A*Men Pure Coffee, I've decided to give him a thumbs up. Longevity is my greatest concern with this flanker, but the opening is wonderful and I can always reapply or apply on fabric.

    09th December, 2011 (Last Edited: 11th December, 2011)

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    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    Kouros comes at you like a self-inflicted sucker punch. A barrage of florals and citrus dominate the opening and extend into the mid notes. The key self-defense tactic here relates to application. One spray is all I can take. My problem with Kouros in the past was over-application. I found it unwearble. Then I took the Paco Rabanne application approach (light on the trigger and about a foot from my wrist) and the world of Kouros became inhabitable. Kouros has similarites to Paco Rabanne pour Homme, Azzaro pour Homme and Worth pour Homme. These classics live in the same fougere galaxy and at times their orbits intersect. The openings are similar but Kouros sweetens over time into a honey, musky, amber, oakmoss base with a dash of patchouli, civet, vanilla and incense, which in combination, create a magnificent dry down. Kouros is one of the best fragrances on the face of the earth, or on any other inhabited planet for that matter.

    07th December, 2011

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    Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Superb! Sheldrake has a way with these kinds of things. Chergui is a wonderful oriental filled with spices, florals, honey, hay and tobacco. A strong floral note combined with a sweet (honey) hay accord present themselves in the top notes. The opening is my least favorite part of Chergui's development. Just too much floral. I find the opening to be decidely feminine. However, as the florals lighten and the myrrh and incense emerge during the mid notes phase of Chergui's progression, the unisex nature of Chergui is established. By the time the honey, tobacco and leather base notes emerge, I perceive a distinct masculine aura around this fragrance. In the end, Chergui is a wonderful, long-lasting fragrance that is recommended for anyone who wants to smell sweet and spicy and damn near irresistible.

    07th December, 2011

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    L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme Extreme by Guerlain

    Where L'Intstant de Guerlain Pour Homme edt is the earnest junior executive, L' Instant Extreme is the poet, intense, smokey, deep in thought and presentation. In many ways Extreme and the edt are different fragrances. Yes, the basic template is there, but the edt can't match the intricate richness of Extreme's many layers. The opening citrus, anise and floral notes quickly take on the patchouli note in the mid stage of Extreme's progression. The cedar note makes an early entry and follows through into the base which is a rich, deep cacao with some lingering floral notes. Extreme is somewhat difficult to pin down. It is a gourmand scent that is too complex up front to fit snuggly into that category. I believe the cedar plays an important role in holding back a full gourmand exposition. I find Extreme to be a complex gourmand that won't raise your blood sugar and will carry your interest through the masterful unfolding of this exquisite fragrance. Highly recommended for junior executives and poets alike.

    07th December, 2011

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    A*Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler

    Thierry Mugler is fast becoming one of my favorite designer houses. Only a few months ago they were an afterthought. Then came my introduction to A*Men Pure Havane, followed by A*Men and culminating with Pure Malt. Where Pure Havane is cherry tobacco, Pure Malt is whiskey that burned my eyes when I first applied it. But then again, isn't a good whiskey supposed to be an eye burner? Pure Malt opens with a very strong whiskey and fruit accord. The A*Men signature vibe is clearly present as the malt note strengthens during the mid notes. Pure Malt grows sweeter over time, but the whiskey refuses to completey fade away. The dry down is goregeous, the tears have stopped flowing and I can settle in and smile. Pure Malt is an excellent fragrance, especially if you are into the whole Thierry Mugler A*Men flanker thing. I'm on board. Flanker up.

    06th December, 2011

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    Sycomore (new) by Chanel

    Sycomore has forced me to rethink my natural aversion to vetiver. I don't mind vetiver as a fixative, but not as the dominant note in a fragrance. The earthy, vegetal nature of vetiver is attractive in the same way that the smell of freshly plowed earth is, almost a spiritual olfactory experience that sustains us, and thereby, attracts us. That being said, I have no desire to rub top soil on my wrist and walk around all day. No worries with Sycomore. Sycomore is a silky smooth fragrance with a citrusy, smokey, floral (aldehydes) opening that blends quickly with the vetiver note that IS Sycomore. Sycomore develops into an inky, woody, tobacco fragrance with the vetiver note leading the team on to victory. Sycomore has excellent longevity and is not a feminine fragrance, but rather a unisex scent with a strong masculine lean. Definitely one of the best vetiver fragrances available. Nice work Polge and Sheldrake, you've created a champion.

    06th December, 2011

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    Bulgari Black by Bulgari

    Bvlgari Black looks like a hockey puck and smells like rubber, sweet rubber. Black is one of the most interesting fragrances I've ever worn. I don't know which notes bring the rubber accord to life, but it really doesn't matter. I really like this fragrance. Black is not an every day scent for me, but it is something I wear during the fall and winter months. The rubber accord lasts through the entire progression of Black. Vanilla is dominant in the base, but the rubber accord tones it down, avoiding a cloyingly sweet mess. We often speak of frangrances as works of art. With Black, I really believe it. An ingenious, creative masterpiece.

    04th December, 2011 (Last Edited: 17th May, 2012)

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    Jules by Christian Dior

    When I wore Jules for the first time, two fragrances came to mind: Devin and a more reserved Kouros. Jules starts very green with a strong galbanum opening. The pepper note is very noticeable as well, although it required a few wears before I could pick it out of the galbanum laden top note. The more I wear Jules, the more I think it is a lighter Devin with a touch of Kouros. Jules has a brighter floral accord at the top than I find in Devin. Devin has a deeper, richer, greener character. After a few hours Jules dries down into a pleasant dry wood and leather base, though the galbanum is still very noticeable. I find Jules to be the more refined scent when compared to Devin. I enjoy both and I expect that many people who enjoy one of these fragrances will enjoy the other.

    04th December, 2011

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    New York by Nicolaï

    I've read so much about New York that I couldn't resist a full bottle purchase. After a few wears, the orange/amber accord established itself as one that I don't respond to. PdN New York reminds me of an orange Bois du Portugal, which I dislike. With the exception of the brisk citrus/cloves top notes, I just do not enjoy this fragrance. I'll give it a few more tries before abandoning it entirely and heading to Jersey.

    04th December, 2011

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    Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Fille en Aiguilles opens with a dark, rich burst of frankincense and spices. FeA is somewhat similar to Fou D' Absinthe in the opening, but I smell more pine in FD'A right out of the bottle. The balsam fir note in FeA also appears shortly after application but becomes less noticeable after about ten minutes. Overall, I find FeA to be outstanding. It reminds me of time spent hiking through the Northwoods of my youth, before heading back to the cabin when it is fully decked out for Christmas, fire blazing in the wood stove. I get a winter holiday vibe with Fille en Aiguilles.

    I find FeA to be more masculine than feminine. I just don't smell the "Girl in the Needles" in this fragrance. osMoz also suggests that Fille en Aiguilles means "Girl in High Heels". Again, I don't "get" the pun, but I don't think Serge Lutens is really aiming for a "serious" name. What they have achieved with Fille en Aiguilles is a rich, resinous oriental that creates a sense of place, a place that I don't mind hanging around in for a day or two every once in a while.

    03rd December, 2011

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    Invasion Barbare / SB by MDCI

    The Invasion begins with a strong blend of citrus and violet. The grapefruit is very noticeable in the top notes. I usually am not a huge fan of grapefruit in fragrances, but this one works. At first this opening did trigger a sneeze reflex, just as other reviewers have suggested. Soon the lavender and cardmom notes make their respective appearances. During this stage of the Invasion, a powdery malted milk-like accord develops. This actually smells much better than it sounds. I like to think of it as gourmet malted milk. The spicy, woodsy, musky base eventually falls into place and holds the line for hours. I find Invasion Barbare to be a very pleasant masculine fragrance that unfolds beautifully into what I can only describe as an oriental fougere with some woody oriental undertones. A hybrid? Perhaps. A classic? Absolutely.

    03rd December, 2011

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