Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Leo

Total Reviews: 20

Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier

Rather awful and unimaginative stuff with a heady/fake lily of the valley midnote, as attractive as enamel varnish.
14th February, 2006

GF Ferré Lui / Him by Gianfranco Ferré

A vibrant, musky, masculine scent. The notes are perfectly balanced. It's fresh on top and warm on its drydown. Classy, somewhat traditional, a 3-season scent which is probably too woody for summer.
11th February, 2006

Just Cavalli Him by Roberto Cavalli

I dislike cardamom but here it's well compounded. This frag is a bit of a letdown only in its base. The top notes are however fresh and invigorating.
11th February, 2006
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Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain

The best of the Guerlains for men. All the rest is either too silly (Habit Rouge), stiff (Derby), pompous (Heritage), outlandish (Coriolan) or plain boring (L'Instant). Lots of civet which soon evaporates into a very balanced and unusual accord. Not for the too young.
27th January, 2006

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka

I like the Fraicheur version better but this is good in its drydown, which compensates for the sugary excess of the top. Licorice candy is the key note here. The spray version has a very well engineered vaporizer which makes for proper applying.
27th January, 2006

Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne by Helmut Lang

I wear the After Shave. Smells just like Mennen Skin Bracer, which is fine with me.
27th January, 2006

Innocent by Thierry Mugler

Just like Angel for a tiny bit, then it bisects and, while keeping a somewhat spicy tobaccoish base, not unlike D&G pour Homme's, starts speaking the tongue of synthetic food flavors - namely, fake apple and fake raspberry (very much like car deodorizer...). This has to be the epitome of the post-gourmet fragrance, in that it pushes the 'real' edible thing one further level away: it evokes an imitation of a real thing.
08th September, 2005

Nu Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

Nu is a mixture between cyphrée and oriental, in the Opium sense: top notes are florals with wood and incense straight away, then the wood becomes acrid and the mid level is what the 'unisex' feel is about: Nu re-reads the mid-Seventies Halston fragrances for men. Then the incense resurfaces and the base is pure Opium sillage with just a hint of darkness. I liked it a lot!
07th July, 2005

Time Uomo by Krizia

Great classic scent walking the line between many concepts. Time Uomo is some sort of balanced mixture between an oriental and a floral (mainly jasmine). It's not too floral to be mistaken for a woman's fragrance, though, nor does it feel at all 'heady'! Time Uomo is in no way excessive with vanilla, nor does it bear a heavy carriage of spices or a dominant spice note. What to compare it to? Maybe a kind of Patou pour Homme with less amber and even more 'joie de vivre'!
17th December, 2004

Blu by Bulgari

Nice white flower concoction with a pleasing ambery drydown, like a modern, warmer re-reading of Diorissimo.
14th December, 2004

Versace Man by Versace

Menthol/camphor ouverture. A Hugo Boss Dark Blue with better developing power. Drydown is tobacco, in the Dreamer's mold. Very masculine and in your face. Lasts for AGES.
20th November, 2004

Cavalli Man by Roberto Cavalli

A citrus which starts in powdered-down lemony/soapy notes and soon trascends its ouverture and works itself into a classier, more subtle version of everybody's favorite French air freshener: Eau d'Orange Vert. Cavalli fashion embodies the spirit of a nouveau-riche/nouveau-niche/nouveau-cliched Italy entranced by the glamour of throwaway star-kitschdom. But this fragrance is a grower and a good reminder that, as far as style is concerned, what matters is not the 'spirit of the times' by which the creator is supposedly inspired, but the actual creatures. Or, the artisans on the payroll.
20th November, 2004

Eau de Cartier Concentrée by Cartier

It starts off great, with a good, fresh lemon note and lots of body. No artificial feeling. The core is however herbal, with a sharp thyme/marjoram/origanum note, soon giving in to (almost) the very same base in Pasha. This fragrance has more balance, however, and the herbal note stays on the background all through the drydown. I like the top notes very much, but I didn't like Pasha much, and this is not my cup of tea. (After one hour or so, you get a woodsy drydown exactly like Kenzo Air's, btw)
20th November, 2004
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V/S for Men by Versace

Warm lemon/bergamot topnotes. Veers towards coriander and cardamom - the same rather awful note in CK Crave. Soon as you start to have enough of it, it turns into a sublime cedarwood/sandal combination. The drydown is tonka. Very layered scent, pleasant, and extremely long lasting.
20th November, 2004

Visit by Azzaro

A well-balanced and high-profile scent, but stay away if you don't like nutmeg. The fragrance is a refined cyphre. I like this one much, much better than other recent Azzaro stuff - Chrome, Vetiver and Cedrat (the latter residing at the bottom of the Azzaro line).

In about 30 minutes, Visit will remind you of a discontinued woman's fragrance by Patou, L'Eau de Patou - possibly the most masculine-smelling woman's scent ever. Give it some more time and it will settle on a typical nutmeg/cedar drydown, playing like a very subtle variation on Bulgari pour Homme Extreme. Visit is a bit muskier and darker, but not THAT much.
20th November, 2004

Hugo Dark Blue by Hugo Boss

Terrible, like some kind of stripped down Basala on steroids. You are greeted by some menthol molecules perfectly suitable to a toothpaste, then the stuff goes berserk and it's another case of the Air Salonpas syndrome: camphor galore. Good, if you got lumbago.
20th November, 2004

Envy for Men by Gucci

Very pleasant oriental in an Eighties groove. It starts out in the same ambery way Perry Ellis for Men (original) would, then it evolves into a drydown very, very akin to Obsession's. Envy is more powdery though, maybe a bit more refined and complex, with a balancing bitterness to its core.
20th November, 2004

Versace Essence Ethereal by Versace

A woman's floral which smells simply awful at the start, just like your average floor-washing liquid. No joke. Then something happens and the drydown starts acquiring a Guerlain veneer - aldehydes plus wood and resins, just like Chamade. Not just as good though. Another incredibly long lasting fragrance.
20th November, 2004

Rush 2 by Gucci

This is a woman's floral. I guess it is just the right choice for those who like their florals to be unobtrusive and disengaged. The market target should be Acqua di Gio's, but in this case we have a top notch combination, and after the quasi-artificial lily of the valley ouverture you end up with a pleasant, fresh rose, reminiscent of the long-forgotten Dimensione Uomo by Ciccarelli (incidentally, a man's cologne).
20th November, 2004

Baldessarini by Baldessarini

This is an ambery cyphre, and there's nothing really new about its (very pleasant) overture: once again a fragrance strongly reminiscent of the original Perry Ellis for Men. So, it feels like Gucci Envy for a bit, then it takes an abrupt turn towards fruity aldehydic: first it's pure Babe, then the raspberry and the peach come to the surface and the whole stuff starts smelling a little bit too artificial for my taste. But not TOO much, and somehow I suspect this one is a grower.
31st August, 2004 (last edited: 20th November, 2004)