Extraordinarily disappointed with this vetiver. Many of the Malle's I've tried seem to possess these unpalatable melange of notes, with one (or two, or three, or four...) notes always "off" and this one is no exception.
No need to really describe transitions as others have already done so, and it's mostly vetiver, but I find either the pink pepper (which I usually like), cloves, or musk in complete disharmony with its eponymous note. It comes across as anything but refreshing, almost rancidly sour, in fact, like smelling something that's turned...
Every time I wear this one I hope to find something I missed or to have it open up differently, but each time I'm left with the same reaction.
01st April, 2015 (last edited: 02nd April, 2015)
One of the more aptly titled fragrances, as it is indeed a heritage to the house of Guerlain. Heritage is essentially the quintessential "Guerlainade" accord. No more, no less. It's enjoyable in its own right, a bit too tame perhaps, and not as compelling as other classic Guerlains, but it's charming and incredibly easy to wear.
The first hour of this scent smells like a margarita or whiskey sour, but without the tequila or whiskey. Really bright, acidic tanginess that pervades for about an hour or so and even stays well into the chalky, dry fougere stage that creeps in with the moss, cloves, and patchouli. I liked these stages quite a bit, but I have trouble thinking not only that they would work together, but also when I'd want to wear Christopher Street just based on that drastic shift; I'm not sure what occasion or season I'd be inclined to wear it. It is a smooth transition, albeit too disparate for my taste perhaps.
There was also an odd note thrown in during these stages. I'm assuming related to the ad copy it has some relation to the "subversive metal tones", but something smells off. Like an odd body odor, but it's not cumin. I can't quite pin it down. Fortunately it's difficult to pick up unless you really bury your nose to find it.
I think it's a pleasant scent, and novel, but the main problem I have with this scent is that the dry down isn't nearly as interesting as the opening and middle stages. After maybe four hours I was left with a generic white musk, which was a bit disappointing.
28th January, 2015 (last edited: 29th January, 2015)
Cuir Cannage works more with the raw leather style of Knize Ten mixed with fruity, floral top notes. It has that Dior style of leather, just cleaned up with the floral aspects here. The base was underwhelming and powdery though. Not a bad option at all if you are looking for a an accessible, formal leather fragrance, but for me, I prefer a bit more excitement added to the leather.
Ambra Mediterranea is an enormous smell. I cannot imagine putting on more than one spray, as one spray on me alone lasted nearly two days on my skin. What is perhaps the strength, but also ultimately the downfall for me, of this fragrance is the overwhelming Benzoin accord. It has the ability to harmonize the amber, and other resinous notes, which by the way, the amber is fantastic here; but it also became too dominant, suffocating and claustrophobic for me. On my skin, it also developed a pronounced sweet gourmand feel, particularly of chocolate and vanilla, which I was not fond of.
It's a peculiar balance in this scent. It's immensely thick, rich, and sweet, but also dry and piquant. Towards the end of it, Duchaufour's always-wonderful incense touch is present, but sadly underrepresented in this one.
This immediately opens rather powdery, but don't be afraid because this isn't the overall effect of Onda. The development of Onda is subtle, but it's there -- this isn't a linear fragrance.
Onda is an extremely dry, austere, and tenebrous smell. Yet it is also comes off as refined and civil, and has a frigid aura throughout; a great scent to pull out on a cold, dreary, wet day. An extremely difficult composition to define and categorize, which makes it all the more ambitious.
There is a leathery vibe throughout, but it never really asserts itself as a leather fragrance on my skin. The vetiver is present, but behaves unlike most vetiver you'll approach in perfumes. This is a dusty, dry scent that has only the faintest amount of sweetness from the ginger, honey and spices. Almost has a grape/wine vibe in some whiffs.
Smelling it throughout the day, it's apparent that Kern has executed the salty "smell of skin" effect magnificently here, as if she has elaborated on what you know as the smell of flesh without making it vulgar. Wearing Onda can feel like a dreary experience, but it diverts the gloominess by reminding the wearer that an actual person is wearing it -- you're constantly reminded of the humanness of it; the smell of your own skin.