Fragrance Reviews by Inselaffe

A blue collar fougere that remains efficient despite its limitations. The brash alcoholic beginning is swiftly superceded by a bright aromatic episode, that is moderately long lasting. This linear fragrance is primitive stuff, but it does have a naive charm that justifies its popularity.Not a thumbs up, but very close.

A brisk, tart and moderately pleasing summer stroll that lacks an engaging dry down in the vain of Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte.No smooth and opulent phase here, just a continuation of the opening. If you truly enjoy a fragrance of this nature, you would be better served by plumping for the Hermes equivalent. It's cheaper, more involving, and less linear.

An easy to access time capsule that has the added bonus of actually being quite wearable. The musk and amber presence are pretty restrained, and beyond the lightly citric opening it, this barely evolves,and remains pretty close to the skin. I don't see this being more than a seventies curio, and I remain doubtful that this would be one to reach for on a regular basis.

As I now give the appearance of being quite grown up, I decided to upgrade my old splash After Shave bottle to a nice gleaming EDT version, complete with atomizer. I really do not find Tabac in any form that overpowering, even the EDT merely adds a slight boost to an already acceptable manly bouquet. The opening few hours provide the powdery assurance that an aromatic fougere with this pedigree should do. It can hold its own with fragrances such as Worth Pour Homme, Paco Rabanne and Quorum, all of which share that powdery freshness so sought after in products of this type.

Where I think Tabac steals a slight march on its competitors is in the dry down, the last few hours are delightful. A slightly baked, sweet and woody twilight period is more than I could have wished for. The only slight disappointment that I had was in the longevity, even in EDT form, five hours was all I could coax out of it. However,I do love the way it promises you very little, and then delivers a lot.

Top notes are aldehydes, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are narcissus, lilac, orris root, hiacynth, cloves, ylang-ylang, rose and narcissus; base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, violet, oakmoss, vetiver and incense.

It does seem that the best ideas in life are the simplest. Je Reviens seems to confirm this theory, with its simple concept of creating an aldehydic, floral accord then providing the momentum to maintain it through to the end. The additional notes merely bolster what has already been achieved, and if anything, this gets richer and smoother with every passing hour. I am lead to believe by people who have been using this for decades that this is significantly inferior to the version sold until the late sixties, and if that is true, I can only imagine what a wonderful treasure that vintage fragrance must be,

Quite why this should have survived when so many similar products have fallen by the wayside over the years is beyond me. It is not that I dislike it, it is just that there is so little to embrace or marvel in, it feels like such a contrivance. The sharp, oily opening is harsh and unsympathetic, but it does set the tone for the remainder of its life. The synthetic nature of the dry down, with its ersatz tobacco and spice accord is uninspiring and bland. One of the few fragrances that would probably benefit from future legislative reformulation.

There are very few fragrances that I loathe more than the original,but Summer Edition does at least sprinkle some glitter onto the Eternity name. Its a rather cliched take on a summer fragrance, with its fresh lime and bergamot opening leading to a lightly warmed middle and base. Its longevity is predictably poor, and it has very little to say beyond the pleasant opening.

I recently reviewed the occasionally excellent Bulgari Por Homme Soir, but its habit of allowing the excellent accords it produced to disappear intermittently diminished my regard for its overall quality. Bulgari Pour Homme on the other hand, has no such issue. There was a delightfully parched feel to the opening, and it never left my skin, even towards its expiry some six hours later. There is a brief freshness in the top notes, but it is not zesty, or distracting enough to deviate the fragrance from the simple woody, and lightly spiced accord that is its backbone. It has a reasonable longevity, contained sillage,and the potential for effortless formal wear.

It would be an absurdity to part with the requisite finds to purchase this, when ones only real joy would be the delightfully brief grapefuit note present in the opening twenty minutes. It is seriously hampered by the brevity issue, and it is almost impossible to imagine why such a short lived product should see the light of day. The dry down, such as it is, is such pale imitation of the opening, that it is impossible not to feel cheated by Hermes for raising our hopes.

There really isn't a great deal to Only the Brave, and what there is, is pretty ordinary. An unsatisfying, vaguely citrus opening gives this a poor start from which it never truly recovers. It hastens to a cedar and amber dry down that won't remain in anyones memory for very long. Whereas "Fuel For Life" is vivacious, bouncy and lots of fun, this is dour and miserable.

An unoriginal, but reasonably well executed cream puff fragrance that seems intent on being inoffensive in every way it can. There is very little development,, although it does improve beyond the confectionary top notes. Once in its stride, its a polite fruit candy and soft wood excusion lasting about 4 hours. Not really worth wasting too much time over.

A substandard, short-lived fruit and vanilla pudding. This adds absolutely nothing to the genre of modern fragrant confection that is so popular in malls the world over. It is basically a fruit opening, with a creamy wood base. Bare skin would be preferrable to this.

Ferrari Red, or the stuff that Ferrari use to clean their windows. This is pretty harsh stuff, an indefinable component within the opening causes my senses a great deal of distress. It remains throughout the middle and base notes, and lends the whole production an abrasive texture. Either the alleged ingredients are in very short supply, or the components themselves are of very low quality. The bottom line is that this is a very harsh, unsympathetic and unpleasant fragrance,

Much as I enjoy subtle fragrances, this one drifted in and out of my consciousness too often for me to get a handle on it. A very pleasing opening, represented mainly by a rosemary and violet accord, is probably the highlight of my experience with Man. I was hard pushed to find anything interesting in the middle and base notes, a primitive woody blend in the closing hours is simply not good enough.

Although it is not a difficult task, I actually prefer this to the original. A brief,tart, yet fruity opening is quickly replaced with a smoked spice accord that lingers for several hours. This middle phase is quite long lived, but it does usher in a rather disappointing phase towards the end, that lacks the simple pleasures of the previous phases. The dry down is a little too meek and lacks the warmth and interest that the heart notes have. All in all, not a bad effort, but not quite worthy of a bottle purchase.

I have a sneaking suspicion that this in fact water straight out of the Amazon. Brown and almost completely odourless, it is even more anonymous than the dreadful Adventure. Ephemeral traces of sandalwood and vague fruits are not really the stuff of legend. Davidoff have produced an almost odourless fragrance with minimal longevity. They have called it a limited edition merely to raise our spirits.

At least by producing such ordinary stuff like Echo, Davidoff are making Zino and Cool Water look like masterpieces. The fruity and aquatic pretensions are evident from the first inhalation, but it recedes quickly into a procession of faux modern accords that resemble the air one might find inside a new training shoe sole, or a tennis ball. Echo is quite long lived, with a moderate presence, but the fragance itself is an exercise in banality.

Heavily sugared, fruit and vanilla flan. The opening is more reminiscent of strawberries than blood oranges, an interesting start, but a little excessive. The subsequent phase is nicely worked out, the fruit still present when the smoother components join the fray. Praline, tonka bean and vanilla ensure a standard smooth finish, to a pretty ordinary product. An interesting concept, but excessively sweet for my palate.

Every time I thought I had Soir worked out, it shifted to a new phase. Rather than allow me to enjoy some new accord or variation, it proceeded with haste to something new. There is much to enjoy here, but as a whole, I was left mildly irritated and disappointed.There is a delightfully dry accord discernable after a few hours,that thankfully does linger long enough to enjoy. The twist of papyrus and tea lends a sweet yet discreet air to BPH Soir, an obvious candidate for office wear.

A sumptuous slide through a beautiful fragrant creation. It pulls of the very skillful trick of maintaining a number of diverse accords in prominance for the entirety of its existence. One senses wood, flora and soft fruits in a finely balanced production that keeps giving until the end. There is so much going on here, and all of it interesting and expertly done. I will reach for this when the evening demands something smooth and refined.

This is far too vague and inexpressive to gain much interest from me. If you could bottle pretension, it would look a lot like 888. The faux exotic ingredients are a good indicator that this is going to be all smoke and mirrors. A dull, uninspiring opening is followed by an identikit floral dry down, with few surprises or pleasures. Clean, predictable, and very boring.

Juicy fruit, followed by monotonous wood and vanilla accord. There are legions of fragrances of this type in malls all over the world, and I can find little that makes this stand out. The opening is heavy, and unwieldy, leading to a rather messy blend of random ingredients. The elements in the base seem indiscernable to me, though a light shroud of coffee remains till the conclusion. This was a very feeble attempt indeed.

An unimaginably turgid and vapid fragrance. The opening is an anaemic broth,suffused with low grade synthetic ingredients. Weekend then breathlessy hurries to its conclusion inside a few hours, as if aware of its own pointlessness. Recent productions from Burberry such as Brit and London suggest that they are capable of excellent work, but Weekend is a miserable failure.

This is yet another product that has virtually nothing to commend it beyond the top notes. A moderately pleasing, fruit laden opening is all you will get for your money, the remainder of Essential is anything but. As I pound on the door, desperately looking for the heart and base notes, Essential hides behind the sofa pretending to be out. This kind of fragrance is irritating, a waste of time and money.

For a mere 60 seconds after application I sensed the spirit of Dunhill Edition spiralling through my nasal passages. Regrettably, I remember little of the experience thereafter, the moist chemically enhanced soup that I had so lovingly applied, evaporated almost completely inside a couple of hours.There is little in the heart and base notes to warrant any deep analysis, other than to say that it is almost totally devoid of charm and identity. This is not remotely worthy of the Dunhill name.

I doubt that any man would be even remotely sexy using this. It has a strong resemblance to Lanvin Arpege, providing the wearer with that elongated wet cardboard accord. It starts badly and goes nowhere. If only the fragrance was as interesting as the bottle that holds it.

A deeply unpleasant experience, saved only by a brief phase close to the end that was smooth, mildly spiced, and what I had hoped for from the beginning. I could have sworn that I sensed the presence of cassis in the opening, it provided an oily hemp like accord that was quite wretched. I would have preferred to have the presence of the sandalwood earlier in this experience, as it would have lent the whole fragrance a much more reassuring seam on which to build. As it is, this is something bizarre and chaotic.

L'Occitane have produced a number of excellent products over the years, but this is not one of them.Its an anise dominated fragrance with little enhancement from the supporting cast. The result is a reasonably long lived, dry and hollow accord that lacks the charm and beauty to be of sufficient interest. Eau de Badian is not exactly unpleasant, but when that is the best one can say, it is hardly going to be a thumbs up.

A decidedly underwhelming fragrance that seemed very unsure what it is trying to achieve. The demented ginger based accord in the opening completely killed my interest in Nomad. The heart notes did become more enjoyable, but given what had gone before, it was not difficult. A poor concept and execution.

This is a lime fragrance without the sharp zest.It is a more restrained and nicely formulated variant on the the citrus theme. The opening is still a lush,green and refreshing experience, but it feels more like a proper cologne than some lime based curio. It dries down into a light woody citrus, with a delicate floral garnish, and it is very deftly done. Sadly, as is the way with many fragrances of this type, its brevity is its one big flaw. The delightful accords, so lovingly created, dwindle inside about four hours. Nevertheless, for the pleasure it gave me, I still give it a thumbs up.

The title "Very Irresistable" is a clear sign that Givenchy have a strong sense of irony. Very Irritating, or Very Irrelevant might have been a a more pertinent title for something so non-descript. A fusion of vague coffee and mint notes that fails to evolve is the entree, main course and dessert in this pointless McFragrance.

An astonishingly potent and saccherine fragrance that is one of the easiest to discern in any crowd. It's about as subtle as a rugby club stag party, and lacks any intricacy, nuance or finesse. This Hiroshima grade candied cinnamon is quite something to behold, and it dominates to a degree that makes Joop Homme a hostile piece of apparatus to engage. Use this fragrance as Ground Zero, and quickly realise that anything else is an improvement.

A real case of good cop bad cop. The first hour of Police is insufferable, an accord based on the back seat smell of a taxicab on a Friday night. It is harsh, bilious and fetid. To my surprise, it mellows very quickly into gentle,floral and wood composite that is actually quite pleasant. This may well be a very cheap buy at the moment, but it wouldn't be bottle-worthy even if it were free.

It was during a marathon Calvin Klein testing session that I finally found something to remove the "Bulldog licking urine from a nettle" expression that I had adopted. Crave is simplistic, almost unwearable in 90% of circumstances, and yet it makes me smile. It has a deranged melon note that reminds me of a drunken, socially handicapped friend I used to have, hard to live with, but crazy and entertaining.

A badly composed fig-centric fragrance that withers quickly,leaving a thin floral residue to bore and annoy its victims. Despite an enterpising opening that is both fresh and envigorating, it's a false dawn. Too quickly it burns itself out, with nothing noteworthy to distinguish it from a legion of other mediocre products

A beautifully crafted fragrance that remains the stand out mens production under the Chanel banner. From the bitter-sweet opening to the edgy dry middle notes, the experience is an excellent balance of well formulated accords. The base is stunning, providing a potency and longevity that is all that one would hope for in a fragrance of this class.

As much as I like Allure Homme, its siblings have never really endeared themselves to me. Edition Blanche begins with a rather disfigured lemon accord that is both cheap smelling and ill judged. The hollow middle notes are a little more interesting, with a snort of ginger to titillate the palate in the wood themed heart of this fragrance. The base has the the old Allure chassis, but with the veitiver much more prominent in this version. There were phases where I actually began ro warm to Blanche, but this is one fragrance that will probably never get that second date.

Any chance that there was a decent fragance in here trying to get out is extinguished by the synthetic garnish with which it is served. There are moments when I think that it has escaped its chemical shackles, but they never last for long. This is something that could have been designed by commitee, as it lacks the creative charm required to make this lovable. This is green, synthetic and monotonous.

A wet and juicy opening that feels excessively sweet, is followed by a much more wearable phase. It dries down into a smooth, wood and vanilla paste that avoids being too cloying. Eminantly usable in all but the warmest weathers, and one of the better offerings from this underachieving company.

There are slightly more things to like than dislike about Boss Bottled, but I am never going to be a great fan. The slightly synthetic, sweetened opening is adequate if a little unengaging. The saving grace is the base, providing a fragrant version of woody elements to savour.On balance, this is a satisfactory attempt by Boss, just not quite worthy of that cigar.

Clear evidence if any was needed that Hugo Boss have completely lost the plot. This represents a sequence of impotent notes strung together to achieve the complexity and nuance of a public convenience soap. At no stage does X & Y have the courage to afford the wearer anything to be proud of, or indeed anything noteworthy to discern whatsoever. It disappeared from my skin with some haste, perhaps out of shame for being so mediocre.

A routine mall testing experience, that begins with the application via a bottle based on a staple gun. The reason this has slipped under the critical radar is that it is simply unworthy of criticism, good or bad. In essence, this is a fragrance with a twiddly synthetic opening, followed by an amber by numbers drydown.

A simple a to b floral, with few surprises along the way.The opening is briefly entertaining, with a slightly contrived and synthetic orange and neroli accord. There is minimal evolution in the subsequent phases, ensuring that ones time with this fragrance is quickly forgotten. This is yet another disappointment from the Prada house.

A virtually unwearable fragrance for the first hour, with only a minimal improvement thereafter. An extremely tart, chemical melange greets the wearer, best described as molten plastic garnished with freshly secreted bile. As the intensity recedes it does begin to resemble something usable, but there is nothing on earth that would induce me to try this again.

An uninteresting, unengaging piece of synthetic perfumery. The notes would suggest that this had great potential, but at no stage is there anything to arouse ones interest. It starts brashly with a hostile green accord, then quickly plummets into woody insignificance.

Another dominant player in the aromatic fougere category, and it holds its own against its peers. Worth, Paco Rabanne, Cerutti 1881 and Quorum all share this slightly powdery existence that is simple in construction, yet masculine and clean simultaneously. In line with a previous reviewer, I find Rive Gauche a more sophisticated alternative and more likely to stimulate my interest in the long term. I keep coming back to aromatic fougeres, potent yet restrained, they remind me of simpler times and give me precisely what I want from a masculine fragrance.

A clean and distinctive fragrance that evolves with some aplomb into a hollow, floral accord imbued with the dryness of wood. The opening phase is perhaps a little tart and harsh, but it is a brief, tolerable episode in an otherwise enjoyable experience. This is light and simple in its construction, but it does bestow a certain youth and optimism to the proceedings. This tried very hard to please me, and ultimately it succeeded.

This is certainly preferable to Homme and Homme Intense, but I still see no reason to justify a full bottle purchase in this range of products. Its single note is fresh and pleasing, but after a few hours this becomes a tedious bore. No doubt including the "Sport" in the title will ensure a rich seam of sales in the under 30s demographic, but in terms of creativity, this is instantly forgettable.

The original was a heavy-handed piece of confection, but with Intense, Dior have still decided to dumb down something that was pretty stupid to start with. A rather despondent iris and vanilla accord is magnified into something crude, cloying and unfathomable. There are countless fragrances that use vanilla and iris far more creatively that Dior have with Intense.

A rather indistinct fragrance that meanders to its conclusion a little too hastily. A nice squelchy, fresh opening leads into the obligatory fragrant dead end. The middle notes sound like they are having a great time in there, but they didn't take the trouble to invite me. I wanted this to really intoxicate me, but either D & G felt I wasn't ready for the real thing, or this really is just a wisp of smoke pretending to be something special. Either way, its not really worth the effort getting to know this.

A shade too sweet and crude for my taste, but it is not the worst entrant in its class. I quite enjoyed the rather faux exotic opening, it was not exactly life changing, but it was laudably different and stimulating. The shroud of cloying sucrose descends within an hour, and the whole thing seems a little unbalanced and heavy. That said, on a warm day, in informal surroundings it might just find its place. Its longevity and sillage are impressive, despite my misgivings about the product itself.

Apart from the very wearable "Land", I have found little under the Lacoste unbrella worthy of bottle purchase. Challenge slips in under the mall radar with its fruit flavoured opening and its oh so modern bottle and colourings. It reminds very much of 1 Million by Paco Rabanne, but tethered and tame. Like so many modern mall offerings, it is top note heavy. Beyond the pleasantly fresh opening is a bleak landscape of trite and uninspiring accords, each as forgettable as the next. Personally, I think the product would have been more accurately named as "Challenged".

If this fragrance were an item of apparel, it would be a navy blue cashmere blazer. It oozes class, has longevity, and is masculine to the core. It should be the staple in everyones wardrobe, and should only be overlooked on the very hottest of days. I have used this in the office, socially and even on dates.This is in the stratosphere with a very tiny group of fragrnces.

A one note wonder, and a pretty harsh one at that. If you are going to produce a fragrance with one dominant accord, it should be one that is beguiling and alluring. Sadly, Seringa produces a sharp, astringent note from the outset that lacks subtlety and nuance. It collapsed on me after a few hours, depositing a vague, whisper of sweet powder for me to mutter at for the remaining hours of its life. This was at the back of the queue when Floris were having their better ideas.

One of the few abject failures in the Floris line. There are a lot of "fresh" ingredients in the top part of the pyramid, but what should have been a citric pleasure-fest, ends up being a prolonged note of synthetic lemon. Beyond this clumsy, and somewhat lazy opening, is a vista of indecipherable bland notes that dribble away with some haste. It can only be hoped that Floris will see the error of their ways, and leave Cefiro out on the mountain to die. A very pronounced thumbs down.

Another entry in the Baldessarini catalogue of mediocrity. I really don't get Del Mar, and in fairness I didn't try that hard. If I have to invest a lot of energy understanding a fragrance, it is has failed. It seems like a random collection of discordant notes vying for domination of this execrable dung heap.

A fault ridden production that takes an eternity to become even vaguely wearable. The opening is a deeply offensive wall of saccharine booze that is neither subtle, refined or pleasant to experience. There is no evolution whatsoever, it just weakens, and with some alacrity. This is the fragrant equivalent of Rap music, very tedious, and utterly meaningless.

Once you have looked beyond the Creed-like creative marketing of their history, this is a straight up and down traditional cologne. Compared to some of the Titans in this class of fragrance like Jean Marie Farina and Acqua di Parma Colonia, this lacks the depth, longevity and the requisite class to warrant anything beyond a shrug and a a dismissive "meh!" As long as I own the aforementioned classics, I see no possible reason to purchase something so clearly inferior

A great deal of affordable shape-shifting fun, that provides a perfect antidote to the modern anodyne mall offering one encounters on a daily basis. It pulls off the great trick in the opening of being both cool and warm simultaneously.The sensation is akin to having an allergic reaction but without the desire to abrade the surface of the skin. There is a beautiful sweet accord in the opening that is a fructose and pepper fusion. While this continues to evolve, it slowly and assuredly sheds its sweetness to become edgier, spicier and throughly entertaining. In its latter stages, it has great fun with the leather, adding a very masculine dimension to an already enjoyable melange. With decent sillage and longevity, this discontinued little diamond should be experienced before it disappears off the radar completely. .

A dirty, herbal, and slightly demented fragrance that one wants to either embrace or hurl at various stages of its evolution. The opening is the olfactory equivalent of the first minutes in "Saving Private Ryan", with a nasal carnage almost unparalelled in modern perfumery. Thankfully, this assault of rosemary and lavender is brief, but it certainly leaves its mark on the wearer. Once it has been suitably tethered, it becomes a much more civilized entity, the balance is better, and there is no dominance from any one single ingredient. A slightly sour sweetness is afforded some attention in the middle and base notes, and I sense that it is the juniper causing this interesting twist in the proceedings. It is very difficult to rate Bleu, but I have to say that it caught my attention from outset, and it never released its grip. For having the cajones to be different, and providing such entertainment, I give it a thumbs up.

An unsatisfying experience that concludes with a distant shouting match between the rose and ylang ylang. The opening is dry as I expected, but it becomes tart and a touch jarring once the descent into the middle notes begins. The balance of ingredients and concentrations seems wrong, but its biggest failing is that it is simply too dull to hold ones interest.

A slight, moderately entertaining fragrance that fades quickly from the memory. There is little to criticize other than its brevity, but it lacks the sure-footed conviction required to make its mark. With its subtlety, it might be well suited to warmer climes, but why wear it at all. A decidely average fragrance that dribbles away all too rapidly

A meek and timid offering, redolent of long forgotten flower pressings. The insipid and unsatifying citric opening is dispensed with quickly, and the fragrance moves with similar haste through a badly assembled collection of poor quality floral ingredients. One is only thankful that this tedious experience is at least a brief one. This is not awful, just pointless

An enjoyable romp through the Penhaligon's condiment rack. The diverse yet subtle array of sensuary phases within Malabah ensure that one is continually delighted and surprised in equal measure. The opening is lightly citric, with its simple lemon and tea accord offering a brief, yet cleansing experience. With its spiced core and lightly sweetened base, there is a fluidity and confidence that remain enchanting until the end. This is unquestionably a unisex fragrance, and a damn fine one at that.

A light floral fragrance perfectly suitable for warmer occasions, or on those days when you have no wish to stand out. There is minimal evolution beyond the top notes, minimal sillage,and the longevity is on the brief side of adequate. One could easily make a case for its unisex classification were it not so difficult to imagine anyone making a full bottle purchase. In general terms,this is a very average fragrance, but by Penhaligon's standards its pretty poor.

An eminently wearable citrus fragrance that outperforms its rather modest price tag. It shares a similar opening with Versace Blue Jeans,but thankfully avoids the same vanilla drydown. The light,crisp accord present on application is maintained throughout the lifespan of the fragrance.This might be one to reach for on warm days when simplicity is the goal.

Welcome to the muscle car of mens fragrances. There are dozens of scents that are more subtle and sophisticated than Polo, but very few that will have the impact. The journey through the pyramid is not an exotic one, but with the big pines and and the general green theme, this is a joy. Fresh smell, sillage, and awesome longevity, not for the heavy applicators.

A moderately pleasing production from Cartier, delicate, subtle and simple in purpose. The opening is an exercise in muted sweetness, with a slightly extroverted violet taking the plaudits, and remaining the focus of attention for the hour or so until the middle notes join the throng. Once the violet has receded, the delicacy of other floral tones are discernable, and at this stage, the fragrance feels gossamer light, and very contained. The drydown is slightly arid and edgy, with a rough lavender presence injecting a little charm and warmth into the proceedings. Eau de Cartier seems fragile and timid, perhaps fatally so, for it never quite has the charisma to pull off the general feeling of meekness. Sillage and longevity are both in short supply, making the concentree version the better choice if you are dead set on making a purchase..

This is a rather unsatisfactory product that introduced itself to me with a liquid Haribo opening. The last time I was assailled by such a dense sucrose salvo was when I tested Paco Rabanne One Million, and if anything this was even more unwieldy. The citrus elements in the opening seem to be completely overpowered, and for the first hour this feels clumsy and lumpen. The only wearable phase occurs some two hours in, when the rather thuggish elements have receded, and a far more entertaining blend of ingredients are permitted to shine through. A dry, spiced tobacco accord has its brief moment in the sun, then evaporates all too quickly leaving one disappointed on almost every level.

A well made, and expertly balanced fragrance, that ticked a lot of the requisite boxes for a winning formula. However, despite its many virtues, wearing Beyond Paradise was never a terribly engaging experience,and found it lacking in soul and character. In some ways, it was overly polished and a touch contrived. The opening did manage to provide a sweet and fruit laden accord that never became cloying or excessive, and this basic character remained for the duration of the fragrance. The subtle freshness provided by the floral presence in the middle notes ensured that the working phase felt soft and and reserved, which added a slight nuance on the original theme. I really wanted things to kick on and for Beyond Paradise to thrill and delight me, but it petered out, and nothing in the base notes could save it from a rather drab end. There is no doubt that this is an interesting product, but I find it hard to get passionate about it.

The mint seam prevalent in many Cartier fragrances is a again a principle feature within Roadster. However, it is less dominant and slightly softer in nature here, and it harmonizes well with the other ingredients to provide a very sombre, controlled fragrance, that is an exercise in refined subtlety. The slightly tart opening is a well balanced affair, never overpowering, and allowing the citrus notes to restrain the normally dominant spearmint. Beyond the opening, Roadster gets into its stride with a smooth transition through a greener middle stage that never betrays its opening sense of freshness. The dry down has one of the better vanilla strains that I have encountered, and in its latter stages it has abandoned any semblance of mint. It allows the simple charms of a soft vanilla and fragrant wood accord to bring matters to a conclusion. A decent fragrance with respectable longevity and a nicely contained sillage.

This fragrance is all about the opening. I say that because there simply is little else to enjoy. There are plenty of products out there that suffer the problem of brevity, but one makes allowances, especially when those brief hours are spent in the company of something glorious. Vera Wang for Men is satisfying and alluring for half an hour, then it recedes into a state where even adequacy is but a distant memory. A fresh, green and vibrant opening burns brightly, then its majesty is all but extinguished. The subsequent phases may be subtle, but I expected something inspiring and warm from the middle notes. The nutmeg, leather and anise are wasted, and the expected edgy accord is virtually non-existant.One is left with a dry,wood base, that adds nothing of note, to something already struggling to please. Deeply disappointing

I wouldn't have minded if there was indeed something extreme about this fragrance, but then again calling it "so so" might not have done their sales much good. I have had issues with Tom Ford fragrances before, and usually my irritation stems from the rather clumsy and muddled way that they compose their products. When one considers that constituent ingredients such as Haitian vetiver, rum, incense,leather and amber are present, the expectation for some exotic blend are very high indeed. The opening was rich, spicy and intoxicating, and my hopes of something edgy in the vain of Aramis Havana and Cuba by Czech & Speake were growing. Sadly, the promising start fades all too quickly in intensity and evolution. Beyond the opening half an hour the thin residue that one is left to consume is vague and much too timid. I can discern something interesting occuring on my skin, but it is a mere whisper of what it should have been. Had it been extreme, bold or indeed long lived, I would have adored this, but it ended up annoying me. This fragrance was an interesting concept but badly executed.

A glorious olfactory expedition to simpler times, when the only criteria for a fragrance was to smell masculine, and to smell sensational. The opening is exactly what you want from a hairy chested cologne, it is a robust blend of citrus ingredients entwined with the acerbity of rosemary. This initial phase is in fact quite long lived, and it is several hours before the middle notes become more prevalent. The slightly bitter carnation notes augment the original edge provided by the rosemary in the opening, and together with a bold neroli presence, Jean Marie Farina becomes rich,edgy and fresh. To maintain the slightly astringent seam that exists from application to expiry, the rose in the base adds a final,dry, masculine phase, that is a fitting denouement. I have always worn this on slightly cooler days, and consequently its longevity is markedly improved. I can easily extract seven to eight hours from my morning application, and its consistency and contained sillage are remarkable.

A simple and unsullied fragrance, that despite its brevity, provides a version of vetiver that is clean and crisp. There is a cogent argument for picking R&Gs version of vetiver ahead of more famous and popular brands. Where many vetivers contain additional notes to enhance the sense of earthiness, this version simply maintains its one glorious note. None of the additional ingredients shove the vetiver from the spotlight, they merely add a light distraction to the proceedings, never intruding, just harmonizing. Everything about this is gossamer light, from the citrus opening, to the floral and cedar notes later on. If you are a fan of vetivers, and you like your fragrances to be uncomplicated and subtle, this may very well be the one for you.

One hour after application, my nose was hunting forlornly around my wrist attempting to find a trace of Extreme. There was a brief period in the opening that caught my attention, with its slightly acidic sweetness prompting an outbreak of optimism for future joys ahead. Sadly, it was not meant to be. The brief spiced phase beyond the opening is its last hurrah, and in a short time one is left naked and scentless. Scarcely have I been more disappointed by a fragrance. At least give me something to work with.

The opening is similar to Gucci Pour Homme II, with the strong presence of bergamot and violet. Whereas Gucci is restrained, muted and well balanced, this has a slightly tart, hostile feel that prevents one embracing it wholeheartedly. I sense a great deal of the juniper, lavender and violet, but less of the more edgy ingredients that would have given this much more character and depth. There is minimal improvement throughout its lifespan, and the arrival of the warmer base notes provides little relief from the overall sense of harshness. This is not a complete disaster, but it fails on so many levels.

An excessively synthetic fragrance that feels oily and contains a slightly demonic version of violet. This is very linear, and has vitually no discernable evolution beyond the first half an hour. I had wanted this to be much greener, earthy and natural, but it remained viscous, with a strong pepper presence to garnish the already dominating violet. In conclusion,it lacked style, substance and balance. It simply did not work for me

A slightly synthetic concoction that mellows into something polite, charming and inoffensive. The slightly oily opening is rich with a deep citrus presence, but no notes dominate, there is merely insinuation. As the floral elements become discernable, so Blue Jeans begins to evolve into something more wearable. The middles notes are light and subtle enough to maintain a degree of interest in its continued evolution. Each phase prior to drydown is brisk and the presence of the base notes is evident within the hour. Fortunately, it is a few hours in,that one can begin to enjoy this fragrance. The arid and hollow nature of the drydown lends a faint, woody tone to the underlying sense of vanilla that remains until its conclusion. It is undoubtedly a better fragrance than its price or reputation would suggest. This is a simple warm weather scent available for a modest outlay, and it really is pretty good

Quorum falls comfortably into a category of powder dry fougeres with Worth Pour Homme, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and Cerrutti 1881. It can easily hold its own in this company, and one could argue, and indeed cogently, that it has even more to offer than the other three. The opening can best be described as clumsy and simplistic, but it gives the fragrance an early momentum that it never loses. Any freshness in those opening moments is strangled by a bestial presence that bitch slaps the wearer into gaining its attention. This slightly hostile opening is brief and it quickly slides into its stride providing a dry aromatic base that supports Quorum for hours. The middles notes are deeply aromatic and designed to drive everything forward upon a typical fougere base. It has prodigious sillage and longevity, typical of fragrances of this period, but it never felt as though it would overpower me, it just about kept on the right side of acceptable. This is not one for the purists, and it will never gain the accolade "masterpiece", but Antonio Puig has created something very noteworthy and eminently wearble.

For me, the Blu Mediterraneo line has been an unmitigated failure. Despite valiant attempts to inject fresh and original concepts into the Acqua di Parma brand, one has to back them up with products that fulfill their brief. Mirto is subtle in construction and it takes a decidedly cautious approach to the opening, its take on the citrus accord was excessively muted and lacking in bite. The introduction of the floral heart notes do little to enliven matters, and one is left with the feeling that this was cobbled together, a result of some random experiment in blending ingredients. Looking at the pyramid, the architecture should have provided something fresh, engaging and enchanting, but instead one is subjected to something bland, trite and mediocre. The only saving grace was that it suffered from the same brevity issue as all the other Mediterraneo fragrances.

A slightly disappointing attempt to harmonize a collection of inspiring ingredients. Whilst I enjoy the slightly bittersweet edge that fig fragrances often convey, there has to be depth and at least a little potency. Sadly, it errs too much on the side of caution, and fails to maximise the tantalizing accords it produces. Figue Amere probably has a lot to say for itself, but it simply cannot get the message across.

A decidedly nondescript opening that evokes the delightful tones of wet cardboard. The prospect of top notes including violet and mandarin had promised a piquant blend to stir the senses, instead one is on the express route through mediocrity. One can only surmise that the quality of the ingredients is to blame here, rather than an imbalance.A briefly appealing period when the wood notes appear creates an accord of sweet hollowness that gives the illusion that Touch may indeed be a slow burner. Sadly, this very endearing phase quickly evaporates once the base notes join the throng. What should have been a slightly sweet, earthy dry down, becomes a timid almost indiscernible residue. A hugely disappointing product.

One can only applaud YSL for producing a way to market the smell of waste material expulsion. At least that is the impression one is left with having had to endure the opening, which lasts an inordinately long time. On my skin it took some two hours before there was even a minimal diminishment in the absurdity of the opening. The ingredients in the top notes appear to have been contrived solely to cause a jarring discord, a means of getting your attention from the outset. You may like or dislike Kouros, but you simply cannot ignore it.

The dry down is a much more engaging affair, in particular fusing the edginess of the Geranium and Cinnamon. The jarring notes within the top note ensemble remain well into the middle notes, but they retain only a faint echo within the dry down, allowing Kouros to evolve into something of great interest, a delicate balance of right and wrong.

The base notes supply the earthy impetus to drive the fragrance along, ensuring that its dynamism and sillage remain undiminished. The reliable ingredients in the base are oft used fragrant stalwarts, supplying the finish to many fine products, and this follows suit with few surprises.

Kouros delighted and appalled me in equal measure, and I knew within those opening hours that it would be impossible to compensate for the revulsion the top and middle notes supplied. All in all, this is an unforgettable fragrance that likes to be the centre of attention. I just could not get past the egregious opening.

One of the best offerings from this house, and significantly different to anything else that they have produced thus far. The balance of ingredients in the opening is expertly done, the very spicy blend of cardammon,cinnamon and mace produce an accord so smooth and edgy that one fears that this might be a one note wonder. Thankfully, this is merely the taste of further treasures to come. Added to this opening are the sweet, yet restrained rose and jasmine notes which elevate and augment the fragrance in a seemless and effortless manner. The drydown phase is perhaps the most accomplished,with the slowly fading top and middle notes, elevated by the presence of incense and woods. Finally one is afforded the luxurious splendour of the late introduction of vanilla and tonka bean. This really is a very special creation, and I will look forward to its company on many cool days in the future.

Despite being labelled a feminine fragrance, there is little doubt in my mind that this can easily be worn by either sex. The opening few minutes are perhaps the only indicator of it being a feminine scent, with the dense floral accord providing a rich and exotic beginning. Despite its name, the Iris content is never dominant, it merely remains as a constant throughout the lifespan of the fragrance, and its presence gives it a wonderfully natural impetus. The drydown is simply sublime, a light, powdered finish, garnished with high grade vanilla. It has a subtle and suprisingly long existence on my skin, maintaining the delightful blend of light accords that it worked so effortlessly to achieve. This would be ideal for clement days in Spring and Autumn, when the heat is less of a factor. Along with Colonia, Acqua di Parma have produced another meisterwerk with Iris Nobile.

A brief and pointless addition to the Acqua di Parma stable. It is entirely different to Colonia or Assoluta, but sadly not in a positive way. Whereas Colonia has a distinct character, a clearly defined reason for being, Intensa is vague, muddled and instantly forgettable. The opening has a distant echo of citrus freshness which is anything but satisfactory. Barely has one had the opportunity to snort in derision at the pathetic opening when one is already transported into the middle and base. Neither phase will grasp your attention for long, the middle providing an impotent floral seam, and the base offering you an unsatisfactory blend of woods. The whole experience was concluded in about 4 hours, and it remains a tedious experience despite its brevity.

An eminently wearable fusion of fresh, crisp top note components with warmer edgier elements. The opening seems dominated by the presence of the Bergamot, which combined with Basil creates a tightened, astringent yet surpisingly pleasant accord. The real delights occur further into the Santos experience, when some real masculine staples enter the fray. The warmth from the woods married to the the condiment components in the middle notes creates an attitude of strength and success. This may not be the best in the Cartier showroom, but it more than holds its own.

Essence begins in the spirit of Déclaration, but has a much smoother, slightly less pugnacious attitude. The fresh, crisp opening has been polished expertly to afford it a level of refinement hard to find in modern perfumery. Having been captivated by the initial treasures, one is led into a labyrinthine drydown of nuanced complexity and exquisite edginess. The hollow qualities of the vetiver add an extra dimension to an already outstanding medley of luxurious accords. Rarely have I found a fragrance so able to continue giving until its expiry.

This is yet another occasion where I would classify something by this house as being unisex rather than feminine. It feels very linear on my skin, the only evolution is a subtle change of gear from the sweetly floral genesis to a floral citrus blend that is slightly tart, but subtle enough to be refreshing and crisp. The longevity is relatively poor, and I can really only imagine a hot weather use for this, when you just want an ephemeral pick-me-up post shower.

A delightfully understated, yet charming blend of floral whimsy and oriental edginess. One of the better balanced creations from Miller Harris, it has the potential for unisex categorization. Nothing seems to dominate, and this allows the ingredients to weave a very warm and subtle accord that affords the wearer the opportunity to use this on any occasion.

An excellent evolving and involving Oriental fragrance. The initial fresh Spearmint in the opening recedes briskly, allowing the warmth from the middle notes to take centre stage. This phase is peppery,woody, but still retains traces of the Spearmint from the opening. The edginess of the drydown evolves further,becoming spicier and warmer. This is a very well composed fragrance, and certainly worth a look.

"You know, when I use vanilla, I make Crème caramel, whereas Jacques Guerlain creates Shalimar." These humble words from Ernest Beaux, the creator of Chanel No.5, sum up what is a delightful olfactory experience for the layman using this excellent fragrance. There is less of a floral presence than I had anticipated, and the sweetness is powdery and beautifully subtle. The interplay between the basic components works very well, and it projects a finely balanced accord that is both refined and elegant. It is very easy to see why this is a benchmark fragrance.

This is an extremely likeable fragrance, very eager to please in the opening stages, and has an exquisite drydown. There is a very fresh seam running through the opening, courtesy of an excellent balance of mint and lavender. The drydown has a hollow timber quality, with slight herbaceous traces still discernable. This is a very well formulated Oriental that delights from application to expiry.

Yet another Creed where it is all about the opening. It starts wonderfully, with the freshness of the Bergamot entwined with the tartness of the citrus and Mandarin, but the balance goes awry thereafter. With the presence of Sandalwood, Heart of Cedar, Vetiver and Musk, the heartbeat of Himalaya should have been intoxicating, sadly the balance appears off, and it dribbles away to a rather mediocre drydown and finish.

A Creed fragrance by numbers, and it has the rich, slightly oily texture so typical of this marque, The slightly herbal and berried opening is smooth and highly pleasant, but on me, it simply fades too quickly. The latter stages of SMW have a bitter edge which I find quite particularly disagreeable. There is insufficient quality here to warrant the expense of time or money.

Of all the many lime titled fragrances, this is by far my favourite. The lime does indeed form an integral part of proceedings, but it recedes gradually allowing the much lighter elements to form a sweet,crisp and understated accord that is delightfully refreshing. Despite being an EDC, and being essentially a post shave freshener, its longevity is more than acceptable. This well worth considering when the temperature soars, and you need something subtle and classy.

A nicely constructed aquatic style fragrance that is only marred by a lack of longevity. The opening feels a little messy, but the general balance of the ingredients is good. I enjoyed the drydown enormously, all the staples in the base provide warmth and freshness in abundance. The sillage is contained, but the main issue is the longevity, giving me just four to five hours. 1805 is really on the cusp of neutral and good, but I have a feeling this one will grow on me.

A rather sickly fruit punch, that simply never dies. Like eating too much chocolate, this has the capacity for extreme nausea. The dominant accord is reminiscent of blackcurrant cordial,and being so very linear, its monotony is mind numbing. Sadly, the longevity is immense, lasting well into the wee hours. Why such unwieldy concoctions find there way onto the market place is beyond me

A slightly austere, but deeply satisfying example of masculine cleanliness.The opening is astringent, strident and delightfully crisp. The presence of Lavender and Rosemary lend a distinct edge to this stage, a necessarily bold statement that sets the tone for the whole experience. It softens gradually durings its lifespan and after a couple of hours this is something to cherish. In its design, this fragrance is a classic fougere, but its real quality lies in the simplicity of the execution. There are powdery characteristics on my skin akin to Paco Rabanne and Cerutti 1881, but in my view neither of these two have quite the finish an understated class of Worth Pour Homme. The sillage is on the exroverted side of contained, and the longevity is substantial, the morning application lasting some eight hours on a cool Spring day.

A rather anaemic attempt at a quintessential masculine fragrance. The modest ingredient list could have been a virtue, but instead it seemed underwhelming in its delivery. A very satisfactory opening of juicy citrus tones were entwined with the edginess of the Geranium. Things never really evolved from here, and this rather linear production failed to have the depth and balance to maintain interest for very long. The sillage is on the bolder side of contained, and the longevity is adequate, managing about five hours on a cool Spring day.

This has a gloriously juicy and rich opening, which unsurprisingly for fragrances of this type, lasted about an hour. Akin to Paco Rabanne One Million, but better formulated and less pugnacious. If it had managed to maintain some of the spirit of the opening I would have been delighted. As it was, three hours in , and my wrist was conspicuously devoid of any evidence that anything had been applied there. This is all head, and no shoulders.

A pleasing, leafy green fragrance, that never quite scales the heights it wants to. The strong green opening recedes very quickly into a dry, musky presence akin to Paco Rabanne. Being such a linear construction, it never allows itself to develop beyond its bright opening, and seems keen stay out of the limelight. It simply lacks the depth and the audacity to hold its own anymore.

A briefly beautiful, but ultimately disappointing attempt at an aquatic style fragrance. I enjoyed the top notes enormously, it is awash with sweet, crisp notes you yearn for when sampling something new. They linger a surprising long time, but when they are finally engulfed by the hollow fusion of Geranium and Cedarwood, the magic has gone. A couple of hours in, and this has become a monotonous bore. I am tempted to give this a thumbs up for the top notes alone, but sadly the rest of the experience negates any initial pleasures I derived.

A pleasant if unexciting addition to the Klein stable. The opening is slightly sweet and playful, giving the brief illusion that this will be delightfully subtle and light. Sadly, after an interesting beginning, this drifts into the middle notes without the addition of anything worthy of note. The restraint of the Vanilla in the base ensures that there is no cloying sweetness in the drydown, but the base lacks the necessary boldness of some potent ingredients to give it the necessary depth. I see little connection with the original Obsession, which although not to my taste, certainly had some originality. Obsession Night seems pointless to me.

An inoffensive wisp of wood smoke and vetiver. This begins meekly with a dry nutty edge, but there is little to enjoy, no nuanced notes tantalizing the palate, just more of the same. This has negligible sillage, below average longevity, and has almost nothing to say.

In a world of anodyne, digitally remixed fragrances, this old analogue construction has stood the test of time. On application there is the fear that this will be more of a sense of spillage than sillage, but the fears are unfounded. This feels much more contained on drydown, indeed it even feels as though it has been applied using a powder. It is not a sophisticated construction, nor will it conjure up any great olfactory surpises, but this has gravitas in abundance.

A delightfully edgy Chypre, that is balanced and well formulated. This manages to harmonize a number of contrasting notes perfectly. There are citrus, floral and earthy tones all vying for dominance, yet they are held in check for the entire lifespan of the fragrance. The diversity of the ingredients lends this a rich herbal quality that is both beguiling and masculine.

An clumsily constructed sugarfest, that offers the whole spectrum of confection from toasted vanilla, to cheap vanilla. Initially my wrist felt as if a vat of caramel had been dispensed on my arm, and this incredibly dense wall of all things sweet took hours to recede. It both astonishes and saddens me that this unwieldy, cloying mess should be lauded so often.

On application, one is instantly hurled onto a wet and juice soaked mattress, from which there is no escape for at least an hour. It does refrain from dominating entirely, but to be enveloped in this warm and potent oriental shroud takes some adjustment. The drydown is a much smoother and comfortable affair,and I was left with a dry chocolate accord that eased its way through to expiry. This is not a fragrance I would choose to use, but it was certainly a memorable ride.

An occasionally enjoyable blend of textures, that has most of its highlights in the first phase of wear. The opening is well balanced, and provides a fresh and animated phase that feels almost floral in construction.It was an interesting notion to have the creamy vanilla seam in the middle notes, but I am not entirely sure that this works.The drydown lacks impetus, and has little personality of its own to make this phase truly noteworthy. This fragrance doesn't quite pull off what it tried to achieve, but I enjoyed the attempt.

A pretentious, synthetic assortment of bum notes fused together for no particular purpose. It was vitually impossible to detect anything on my wrist for the first twenty minutes, and only a vague chemical residue was discernable thereafter. It would be an exercise in futility to try and identify any of the notes as there is simply no shape or direction to this whatsoever. It is clear from the surfeit of ingredients listed that this was an attempt to overload the senses and create something avante garde, but the reality is that everything gets cancelled out, leaving the wearer to enjoy a thin insipid residue.

A rather industrial and deliberately jarring assembly of components. The dominant feature of the opening is mint, and this appears to have been designed to sharpen the bum notes that one is exposed to for the first hour. This is fragrance by numbers, and these simply do not add up. The top notes are deliberatley mismatched, the middle notes designed to sweeten the mess, and the base includes all the usual suspects for a mainstream sweetened cliche.

One of the better Blu Mediterraneo entries, but still handicapped by the longevity issue. The citrus elements seem rich and textured, never feeling contrived or unbalanced. A very natural feeling fragrance that perhaps has to pay the price of brevity for its undoubted organic charms. As a clement weather mood elevator this is a definite success.

A rather synthetic and cloying opening recedes swiftly into a warm and somewhat engaging drydown. There are similarities in tone to Miller Harris Noix du Tubereuese, but more muted and with less finesse.The slight almond paste sweetness ensures this remains wearable, but its contrived and cosmetic personality jars continually. One can only detect a suggestion of vetiver in the top notes, but as an ingredient, it is superfluous. A sweet and synthetic bore.

The base elements of Cedarwood and Sandalwood seem to dominate from the outset, providing a dry accord with an air of expired medication. A formulaic and linear fragrance, this winds inexorably towards an uninspiring conclusion without deviation or inspiration

For the four hours that VIW existed, I was intoxicated by its seraphic melody of tropical notes. The opening fusion of citrus and coconut sets the tone for its entire lifespan, and the only evolution involves the citrus gaining the ascendancy after the first hour. As a warm weather fragrance, this is almost peerless, but there are obvious caveats. Given its price and brevity, this remains a luxury item, an indulgence. Nevertheless, for its sheer joie de vivre, I lovingly applaud it.

An overtly sweet,citrus and Amber fusion that will delight only those with the sweetest of teeth. The opening gave a strong sense of fruit flavoured sherbet, with the acidity increasing quite markedly in the first half an hour. Although the drydown is a muted version of this, I could never escape the feeling of confection that remained for the remainder of its existence. The Amber won out in the final stages, but the fat lady had sung quite some time before that.

A slightly sweet,Victorian hankerchief dampener, that beyond its somewhat powdery cosmetic opening, is an amiable accompaniment to a formal occasion. One would imagine that this will have limited appeal, given its rather antiquated and feminine characteristics, but once it has settled into its stride, it does become quite engaging. The opening feels oily and citric, but this is quickly dispersed by the unpleasant sense of some cosmetic additive. The heart of Royal Water is florally sweet, but never becoming cloying or overbearing. Not quite a thumbs up, but close.

A totally misguided attempt to produce a heavily masculine fragrance. The imbalance was immediately evident from the first moments of its existance, bullying my senses for the best part of two hours. The presence of ginger and tobacco in these quantities created the illusion of being doused in leather tanning fluid which continued well into the drydown. If you were to gargle with the contents of a spittoon, you would get close to the pleasure of using this fragrance.

A bargain basement,creamy fougere, that is pleasant to have around. The opening is clumsily alcoholic, but it swiftly recedes to provide a linear fragrance that appears to have a simple task in life, to remain smooth and sweet without becoming cloying. In that simple task it succeeds. This is an interesting take on an Amber based fragrance, remaining cool and dry on the skin, yet providing a warm engaging sillage. All things considered, including its modest purchase price now that it has been discontinued, this isn't half bad.

With a little more substance, this could have been an absolute winner. I wanted this to shove the leather gag into my mouth, to have the swagger and boldness to douse me in its juices, but it wore vinyl and read me poetry. Not so much a Safari, as a trip to the zoo.

The presence of some very edgy ingredients creates a stimulating, yet remarkably smooth formal fragrance. At no stage does it simply rest on its laurels, this wants your attention, but does it in such a subtle way. There is little in the opening to suggest that anything of great significance will emerge, but this is simply Edition doing a sound check before a truly wonderful performance. Everything about this is done without fuss, but with some wonderful intricate work going on here.

A supremely well balance fragrance, that is undoubtedly a candidate for unisex classification. The very early stages are camped firmly in the pink end of the spectrum, the rose in the top notes still has a little too much to say. An hour in, and I am beginning to get exposure to my own private dancer, and I can apprecuate what all the fuss was about. The balance in the drydown is astonishingly accomplished, and nothing seems to be dominating and leading this astray. Mitsouko is the olfactory equivalent of the Everly brothers, smooth and beautifully harmonized.

For the first time I am using a fragrance that I simply cannot detect myself. Others around me have vouched for a warm, slightly sweet, and deeply pleasant sillage. Why my nose has chosen to filter out the prominent notes within Arpege, I cannot imagine, but I would be pleased if this new quality control would continue with other noxious fragrances. This is an inoffensive and personable oriental, that has the main virtue of being value for money.

As expected, the opening was extremely heady, with Mimosa particularly dominant. My fears that this would remain firmly in the feminine camp were unfounded, as became clear once the dense floral weave was sweetened, and embraced by the Amber. The resulting warm, almond like accord, is truly worthy of the entrance fee alone. Although there was minimal evolution post top notes, there didn't need to be. Once in it's stride this was languid, smooth and a delightfully engaging.

A fragrance by numbers that only briefly tweaked my interest. The balance in the drydown seemed poor, and none of the constituent parts really stood out, or indeed provided the stimulus for a noteworthy accord. The freshness in the top notes went straight into fairly bland, monotonous middle and base notes. This is by no means unpleasant, but it lacked an edge, and a personality of its own.

The opening was an astonishing grenade attack of fresh oranges, and instantly suggested that this might be bottle worthy, and a staple in any summer wardrobe. Sadly, the achilles heel of most AdP fragrances was even more in evidence here, and this wonderful opening fanfare was curtailed all too quickly. Within
an hour the enitire construction collapsed into insipidity. I doubt that I have encountered a fragrance that descended from hero to zero with such alacrity.

As this fragrance would require an expedition to locate anything conclusive to smell, the name Adventurer seems apposite indeed.Although I have dry skin,to have something disappear almost completely within an hour is breathtakingly inadequate.The brief accords that I could discern were a motley collection of feeble ingredients that conspired to achieve mediocrity.

Despite the the often alluded to comparisons with Green Irish Tweed, they are about as similar as a Newton's Principia and Winnie the Pooh. The richness and depth that exists within GIT is sadly lacking in Cool Water, its rather one dimensional structure is a pale imitation, That said, it is a pleasant uncomplicated bottle to reach for when temperatures are up and you have run out of your better stuff.

A very ordinary offering, that never at any time escaped the realms of the humdrum. A brief flicker of pleasure was induced by the introduction of the Grapefruit accord, but even this was fleeting and insufficient to rescue the whole experience. The drydown brought to mind the scent of magazine samples long since discarded in a doctor's waiting room. This had inadequate longevity, sillage and quality to be even vaguely worthy of bottle purchase.

A bouncy, citric mattress, infused with a deeply smoky haze. An effortless transportation into a sandalwood wonderland, it continues to delight unabated until it's untimely demise deep into the shadows of the evening. A perfect accompaniment to a linen suit and Panama hat, the lemon groves are calling me.

A delightfully earthy chypre, with an opening that played my palate like a Zither. This was no segue into a clouded and fussy drydown, merely a triumphant and bombastic fanfare for the future pleasures ahead. I found the pace of Equipage to be wonderfully languid, providing ample time to enjoy each new accord. A compelling casserole of diverse components, each working towards the goal of producing a vibrant peppery chypre. Longevity and sillage are not prodigious, but adequate, and in keeping with this refined masterpiece,

This is a prime candidate for layering. Working in unison with the other Grafton products available from T&H, this would work wonderfully. The citric top notes begin to burn off very quickly, providing a dry almost Rive Gauche feel. The warm and herbaceous middle notes provide a distinct warmth and ease that propel this effortlessly into the pantheon of excellent barbershop fragrances.

Robust, yet rich lemon opening, that has sufficient sweetness to allow a pleasant and amiable descent into the drydown. The big cedar heart begins to pump, initially in unison with the citrus notes, then finally dominating the whole affair. A well balanced blend of diverse ingredients that succeeds in holding your attention for the majority of it's lifespan. Good longevity and sillage ensures that it gets a thumbs up from me

A heavy, brooding and intoxicating blend, that although being linear, had tremendous longevity on my arid skin. I would consider this a contender for unisex classification, given it's rather rich and intense texture, and I could easily imagine using this in small dosages. This blood soaked floral salvo fired my imagination and finally made me embrace the rose. Nice work C&S

A delightful and discreet chypre, that provides a considerable impact without ever becoming obtrusive. An apparently simple construction, one can detect the pivotal influence of the rose, which provides the fulcrum on which this entire fragrance balances so beautifully. Having been formulated during a time where longevity was a necessity, this ticks every box that you can possibly put before it.

Despite a bright, sweet and fresh opening, this descends into a creative vacuum all too quickly. There is woeful longevity, minimal sillage, and one is hard pressed to make a case for spending any time with this at all. A meaningless exercise in marketing and mediocre perfumery.

In the novel Catch 22 by Joseph Heller, there exists a character called Dunbar whose life is spent cultivating boredom in order to prolong life. Dunbar would have adored Infusion d'Homme. By creating this incessantly jarring and soapy Iris accord is a sort of olfactory sadism I could have done without. Ones initial appraisal of the ingredients concludes that this is quite an interesting cast list, but somehow Prada have managed to mangle them into this fragrant Frankenstein. When encountering this, run fast and run far

The top notes of Lemon, Lime and Mandarin combined with Bergamot create a very slight citric opening which feels too meek for comfort. It reminds me of Nivea Shaving Balm in the early stages, which for a fragrance of this pedigree is highly disappointing. However, the drydown is far more refined and closer to what I had hoped for from the outset. The base of Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Galbanum, Musk and Amber are olfactory stalwarts which ensure that Quercus finishes very well. If the opening had been more enterprising I would have loved this, as it is, this is an unbalanced let down.

One of the more interesting stations on the Miller Harris Line. A very robust fusion of clove and tobacco is sweetened for the opening, which is an astonishing waft-fest. Feuilles de Tabac has the corpse of YSL Kouros buried beneath the floorboards, and periodically I could detect it's aroma creeping through during the drydown. This is a multi-faceted composite of rugged ingredients, that begins to harmonize in the later stages. I will give this a thumbs up for it's strident personality and inducing me to sniff my wrist almost constantly for hours.

How kind of Christian Dior to launch something that smells exactly like all the magazine samples I have tried over the years. That subtle blend of printing paper and chemicals is quite a feat. Perhaps there is a demographic of fragrance loving printers that would really dig this. This is simply too bland to be anything, even calling it nondescript is endowing it with more virtue than it deserves.

I must say, it is a pleasant surprise to find something in a mall that is even vaguely wearable. A bouncy,eager to please, fructose fusion that would ideally be suited for casual use. In an ocean of Cream Puff fragrances, this is one to enjoy and not take too seriously. The bottle is another matter, if I was rating that, it would not be so much a thumbs down as a Heimlich Manoeuvre . Staggeringly awful. However, for the contents, a thumbs up and a cheery wink.

How I wish that I could find the male equivalent of White Linen, but encountering this in any circumstance is a delight. The aldehyde and citric accord in the opening lends an incredibly taut feel to the early bars of this fragrance. The wonderfully energetic mid notes evoke scenes of Edwardian ablutions in sumptuous Manor House settings, with crisp starched clothes laid out for the day ahead. This is an olfactory sorbet, cleansing the palate, then providing new, fresh tones for your own edification. A masterpiece.

It must have been a glorious time when all perfumes where as rich and refined as this. The Hyacinth and Jasmine medley provides a delightful introduction and the promise of fabulous riches to come. The Jasmine remains as the thread into the drydown and it meanders along picking up extra depth from the garden with Lily and Galbanum. The earthy base provides the solid backdrop required to complete a fabulous production, and give it excellent longevity and a consistent sillage. Bravo Floris

A very feminine, fruit laden floral, that is almost impossibly cheerful in its early stages. This only briefly attained the neutrality that would have made it possible for me to carry this off, and sadly this period was in the twilight of its power, shortly before evaporation. That said, there is much to enjoy, not least the inexorably optimistic and uplifting aura that this possessed in the early hours. This is most definitely a feminine fragrance that would be a tremendous fillip when applied early in the morning.

An excellent formal fragrance, that evolves beautifully from the application onwards. A sharp astringent opening with a feint citric and clove blend that continues to tighten into the drydown. A fabulous Cedarwood and Sandalwood medley awaits the wearer from the third hour onward, and it continues to develop until its demise several hours later. Decent longevity, and sillage, I found this to be a delightfully balanced formal fragrance.

A decent and efficient entry from YSL, with a slightly acerbic opening and an earthy stage pre-drydown. This reminded slightly of Diesel Plus Plus of some years ago, and I could easily apply this on a day when I don't want to think to hard about the selection process. A warm spicy drydown makes this a useful choice for clement days in Spring and Autumn.

An adequate modern day fragrance, that just kept its nostrils above the water level of mediocrity. The opening swept in a Germaline and oranges blend that was thankfully short-lived. An hour later it had softened into something more pleasant and amiable, but there was still very little to find remarkable in something so powdery and vague. Certainly not the worst of its type, but I can imagine only purchasing this at gunpoint.

There may be Magnetic Wood in the mid notes, but there is very little else that will attract you in this sugar-fest from Givenchy. Given the architecture of the top notes, I had expected something a little fragrant and exotic, but one is merely subjected to a series of diabetic episodes that result in the relentless frontier of vanilla in the drydown. Very, very ordinary.

The genesis of this is magnificent and promises wonderful treasures ahead, but sadly it becomes muted and timorous all too quickly. A splendid Neroli and Citrus opening makes way for an earthier base, briefly reminiscent of Allure. They both have the Cedarwood and Vetiver accord that I enjoy. I will consider this for my summer wardrobe, when it's brevity will be less of an issue. While Pour Monsieur is in full bloom, it is sublime.

A delightfully crisp and elegant production that sadly neglected to hang around very long. Very rich and floral from the opening it does settle quickly into something polished and masculine. The Patchouli and Vetiver give this a glorious, if brief drydown. I wore this in cold weather, and it lasted as long as a suicidal Mayfly. Had I been able to gain some quality time with it, no doubt I would have given this two thumbs up. Based solely on it's quality, it is superb and worthy of the name "Gentleman".

An example of modern day creative poverty from Christian Dior. Lacking in originality, it aspires only to co-exist with its host, never once daring to harmonize or become engaging in anyway. From its application to expiry, I found this to be meek and timorous in a way that baffled and irritated me. Too bland to even warrant a thumbs down.

A tepid,aquatic creation that had minimal sillage and longevity. It did succeed in being anonymous and inoffensive, but that appears to be the raison d'etre of all fragrances of this type. Despite a fresh and warm opening, one yearned for some real substance somewhere in the ingredients to elevate this above the ordinary. This set itself low standards, which it failed to achieve.

Opiates by nature are highly addictive, but this was an exception.An excessive number of components were vying for control from the outset, and the sense of imbalance remained through the drydown. It would be unjust to suggest that Opium was completely unwearable, but it seemed jarring to co-exist with it..This was rich, floral and doused in a blizzard of booze. The top and middle notes produced a cacophony that I will happily never have to endure again.

As much as I find the original Fahrenheit unwearable these days, it was at least something very different when it was released. I would have had more respect for F32 if it had tried to be different and failed. This was a lazy attempt by Dior. Quite what connection there is meant to be with the original Fahrenheit is beyond me, F32 has far more in common with the legions of modern Amber based fragrances that occupy shopping malls all over the world. Despite a fresh sweet opening courtesy of the Orange Blossom, this quickly becomes saccharine and contrived. Move along gentlemen, there really is nothing to see

This is very similar in tone to Guerlain Vetitver, but very linear, muted and lacking the raw personality. It has excellent longevity, but is less green than I had hoped for, allowing the tobacco extract to divert attention away during the drydown. There is very little change in tone from the initial application to it's expiry many hours later. There are more interesting and edgy Vetivers out there to explore, and consequently, this one need not occupy anyones attention for too long. It is a shame Lubin played it so safe.

An uninteresting cedarwood based fragrance, in a mildly interesting package. This is a lazy production, offering little in the way of creativity or ingenuity. It would seem that the majority of the budget for development went into the rather kitsch bottle. A rich, slightly sweet, floral opening,leads into a vast expanse of cedarwood. This fails to evolve or indeed hold your interest beyond the first hour. This might be called "He Wood", but I wouldn't.

A crisp, leafy opening lends a fresh impetus to this rich blend of natural components. As the Green Nettle recedes, a sweet yet muted blend of Jasmine and Lavender unite to add considerable depth to the drydown. This is a decent addition to the Dunhill stable, and a welcome, if only partial return to form. As a designer fragrance, it performs very well against its peers and consequently deserves its thumbs up

A slightly oily orange melody from Creed, that pleased and disappointed in equal amounts. Whilst I was titillated by the subtlety of the ingredients, it's blend of sweetness and acerbity, it also displayed a hesitancy that grew wearisome. At a time when I should have been basking in the glories of a Mediterranean orchard, I was left with little more that the scent of my own bare skin. The brevity of Neroli Sauvage, even by Creed standards, is hugely disappointing.

An excellent, clean and fairly formal formulation from YSL. I have a penchant for formal, even stiff fragrances, and this certainly falls into both categories. There is little fanfare or desire to be the center of attention, just a superb balance of components contriving to produce something sombre and professional. The drydown evokes scenes of well mannered ablutions and traditional barber shop treatments. I have no hesitation in augmenting my formal wardrobe with this delightful production.

A pleasant, inoffensive offering from Gucci, which might find favour among those that seek something sweet and woody. The opening is more frusctose than sucrose, with a Pink Grapefruit type sweetness which in no way ever becomes sentimental or cloying. A slightly dried timber note from the Papyrus wood, augments the fading nectar from the opening, to provide a warm, affable fragrance. One to reach for when you don't want to stand out from the crowd, but still smell alluring.

This is an odd creation from Miller Harris, a fusion of interesting ingredients that struggle to find the balance required to give this a real identity. The opening is a robust affair, offering a brief herbal episode infused with citric character.Drying down, the blend becomes a little unbalanced and none of the elements make a strong enough impression to please. I did find solace in the forest floor earthiness that developed from the Vetiver presence, and it did finally begin to live up to it's name. Sadly, it never pleased me on sufficient levels to warrant a thumbs up.

There is a suggestion of Blenheim Bouquet about the opening, with a strong sense of honey dominating the early exchanges. For such a simple construction, this has plenty of depth to enjoy, and all from such a small application. It would have been easy to get the balance of Haute Concentrate wrong, but it works remarkably well. On the one hand I am sad that this classic is often overlooked, but then again, it does mean it can be purchased at a reasonable price. This ticks all my boxes for quality, sillage, longevity and value for money. Bravo

The introduction is a harsh composite of lavender and mint, reminiscent of a pharmaceutical treatment. None of the phases really engaged me, and it takes several hours before O&C becomes even vaguely wearable. This is similar in intensity to Issey Miyake Bleu, but not quite as unpleasant. O&C is my least favourite member of the esteemed Czech & Speake family.

Despite reviewing my old notes, I simply can never remember how TDH smells. Consequently, every time I revisit it, it both surprises and delights me. On the trampoline of top notes, it is the pepper that bounces the highest, and grabs all the attention. Thankfully things settle fairly quickly, and the candied orange and pot-pourri accord that this fragrance is famed for steers the drydown into a dirty but warm base. I liked this a lot, firstly because it evolves continually until it's expiration, and secondly, it is edgy and full of character,

This is about as simple as a fragrance can get. Lime anyone? I use this in high temperatures, or straight after a hot bath , and it is freshness personified. It's brevity suggests that it will have limited use amongst mainstream users, but at what it sets out to do, it is very good.

There are obvious comparisons with Green Irish Tweed and Cool Water, but JF seems a slightly sweeter and muted blend. There is no brash opening, and all the phases, slide in seamlessly.Normally, I would take a Deer Rifle to anything with this much Amber in it, but the balance of components in JF is excellent. Floris have a habit of doing things without fuss and fanfare, this is a prime example. Top notch.

The opening had all the subtlety of an embittered Rottweiler. It was very boozy, floral and creaking with leather.It had been a very long time since I tried this, and I was shocked at the projection and longevity from such a small amount. The drydown takes some time to arrive and I can only assume that the presence of Myrtle and Clove oils has given this the depth and power that it provides. In sensible doses, this is very wearable, but I think I have seriously outgrown this.

It would be a superfluous gesture to describe the constituent parts of Eau Sauvage, as so many reviewers have already alluded to it's structure already. This was my first fragrance, given to me as a gift on my fourteenth birthday, and along with YSL Pour Homme, remains a staple to this day. I would suggested that Eau Sauvage is never just tested, but experienced for several days at a time. It should be allowed to beguile you with it's warmth, it's sensibility, and above all, its beauty.On application there is both a physical and an emotional response to this fragile and intoxicating fragrance. On warm and sunny days, this will love you , remind you of all the better days, and be glad you are alive.

A rather nondescript entrance is quickly followed by a very charming hollow accord, which sits rather precariously on my rather dessicated skin. The muted timber quality of the drydown is exceedingly pleasant, and this phase becomes very dry indeed. It lacks the urgent freshness that the opening had promised, so this would be ideal for cooler autumn days. It is very contained, has minimal sillage, but is robust enough to keep one's interest. A compelling journey through all it's stages, and a cheap ticket to boot.

A low flying fragrance supported by occasional gusts of wind. The opening took me through to a room already occupied by hundreds of its peers. The top notes, although interesting, were still a little too sickly for my somewhat diabetic palate. The drydown is more amenable, leaving the wearer with a large piece of Vanilla Brioche to nibble at. It is too cloying in the drydown and there is an overwhelming feeling that the balance of ingredients is poor. This is better than most fragrances of this type, but it will wow very few.

This is another fascinating series of olfactory episodes, courtesy of the alchemists from Jermyn Street. The opening was very unpleasant, but only for the briefest of periods. I detected a urine type edge in the first few moments, but thankfully this disappeared quite quickly. The herbal middle notes of Coriander and Sage never dominate each other, and combine wonderfully with the Grapefruit residue in the top notes. The dry down is baked, dry,and fresh, but in a very understated way. This is a nicely balanced medley of notes, and it has an originality that should be applauded.

This is a beautifully subtle production from Floris, and I thoroughly enjoyed the whole journey from application ,to it's termination some ten hours later.Normally I bemoan a fragrance that has little or no evolution, but when the opening is as refined as this, I will make an exception.The drydown had the blended sharpness of the rose and ylang ylang to ensure that this never strayed into the sentimental. My initial feeling was that this might be a little stiff and formal for varied use, but I think when something has this much class, you can wear it anywhere.

The opening seems excessively harsh for my palate, and the initial impression reminds me of honey,lemon and menthol.In contrast, the drydown is crisp, vibrant and very well mannered. My problem remains the opening few hours which were unpleasant enough to negate any pleasures that the drydown provided. There is insufficient here to warrant either a purchase or indeed a thumbs up.

This is a sweeter, more muted production than the original Colonia, and it felt very contained from application to drydown. It has a meeker, less obtrusive personality than it's older brother, and it seems to try very hard not to offend in anyway. The original has a swagger and ebullience that is sadly lacking here, I would find it difficult recommend a purchase of this while they Aqua Di Parma produce something so much better.

I would like to think that here on Basenotes we have moved beyond the standard of review that states,"The chics go mad for it". For men squatting on their haunches grooming each other, this might be a pertinent evaluation, but I am more interested in this based on it's own merits. The genesis of this fragrance is very fresh and herbal, almost as pungent as the drydown in the Bleu version. The brevity of the opening is a godsend, and the descent into the drydown is a very pleasant oceanic experience. Sadly, the whole production is transported with haste into a thin synthetic dimension which is where it peters out all to quickly. This really is something of a Curate's Egg, but with the bad parts too annoying for me to forgive them.

One could never accuse Czech & Speake of producing dull and nondescipt fragrances, but as yet, I have not found one that I have bonded with immediately. Frankincense & Myrhh is probably the most accessible of their range, and I especially enjoyed the freshness of the opening. The citrus components seemed to be there as facilitators, rather than as dominant parts in their own right. Consequently, the Sage and Basil gave me a particularly dry and fresh introduction, which blended well with the slightly sweeter middle notes. Longevity is not great, and I struggled to get beyond five hours with my morning application. The drydown is sweet, baked and extremely masculine.This may not be as exotic as other C&S fragrances, but it is my contention that this is probably the most usable. I enjoyed this stimulating medley of diverse components enormously.

The tart opening is a little misleading as it burns off quite quickly,leaving a muted citrus residue to collide with the Thyme and Vetiver in the middle and base notes. Any exposure to warmth induces a significant increase in intensity, and in the heat of the summer, this will be a glorious production. It shares a similar architecture to Eau Sauvage,but is even more simplistic in construction. YSL PH has decent longevity in comparison, and it strikes a perfect balance between boldness and subtlety that is a joy to behold. The Thyme and Vetiver drydown has a warm hollowness to it that I simply will not tire of. This is exquisite.

Sadly, this falls into the category of so many modern fragrances I have tried recently. An interesting and fresh opening promises an invigorating and progressive journey, but the whole structure collapses in a few hours. There is a place for light, slight fragrances that enliven a summer evening, but this is too trite and fragile to have any meaningful usage. There undoubtedly similarities between this and Burberry Brit, but the latter is a better balance of ingredients, has greater longevity and is worthy of purchase.

This has a whisky type quality about it that I simply do not care for. It is a rather clumsy attempt at creating a sophisticated fragrance, and it simply fails to deliver on any level. I could have lived with the rather boozy notes had they evolved into something smoother,and had in any way finished well. Wearing this was absolutely no fun at all.

This glorious fragrance is served up to you as a citric punch, that induces the tendency for multiple wrist sniffing. It dries down seamlessly into a warm Sandalwood base that compliments the freshness of the opening. If one could bottle the essence of a "Gentleman", then I can imagine that it would be similar to this. Well mannered, urbane and discreet, I will be happy to take this out in the evenings as well as in the boardroom.

It would be difficult to find a fragrance that polarizes opinion in the way that AdG does. Having tried this with an open mind, and being as objective as possible,it is clear that it does not deserve it's place at either end of the critical spectrum. It is a decent, if unsophisticated aqua fragrance, that seems to have been damned for it's ubiquity. Personally, I take a different view, and am appreciative of it's place at the top of the charts. This makes it so much easier for those of us who favour something else to be elevated above the humdrum.

Despite my rather diabetic palate, I actually found this to be pretty good. It is undoubtedly a little too sweet for me to embrace this wholeheartedly, but this a well polished ride to the base notes. This appears to have quite a spartan arcitecture, and I think it benefits from this simplicity. Fewer moving parts means less to go wrong. The single ingredient in the mid notes gives it a great deal of stability, and the Olive Flower is an interesting choice. This is a solid package to take to a smart casual gathering.

In line with many other Basenoters, G.I.T was my first taste of the Creed brand, and it was very different to anything I had sampled before. Now that I have tried many other top flight fragrances, I feel able to give an objective opinion of this now legendary brew. One of the early phases reminded me greatly of Aqua de Parma Colonia, but softened and muted in comparison. It works well as a fresh, green cocktail, and it is undeniably a beautiful creation, but a few small doubts remain about it's subtlety. For such a rich blend, I find this quite one dimensional and lacking in peripheral charm. This a special fragrance, marred only by it's ubiquity amongst the uninitiated, but I expected a little more progression than I got. However, this may be my problem, and not Creed's

This takes the same course as London, but it is a little sweeter, and is perhaps a little too eager to please. It dries down into a wearable and durable construction, and it is certainly one of the better modern offerings.Reviews for fragrances such as this are quite difficult as the product under discussion is so lacking in personality. This is safe, pleasant an inoffensive. Personally, I need a little more from something I will spend my waking hours with. I can easily visualise the sort of demographic this was designed for, and I do not think I am in that mix. It is efficient in what it is designed to do, but I cannot see this wowing many people under the age of thirty.

Even if you were to use an Electron Microscope, you still would not be able to locate my interest in this bland concoction. The top notes are bearable, fresh and full of promise of future treasures. Sadly, it was a quick descent into what one can only describe as Deep Heat meets vanilla. In fairness, the drydown is a muted version of this, but it is a trite piece of chemistry that is on offer here.

This falls very distinctly into the category of a modern fragrance, it has the typical vanilla drydown, but it is one of the few that I can comfortably stomach. The one thing that makes it stand out for me is that it is very well balanced, almost the best I have encountered. The sillage is prodigious, and it lasts an eternity. The previous reviewer alluded to the fact that this would be a good office staple, and I have to resoundly concur. This has little complexity, minimal evolution, but judging this on quality,longevity and value, this gains a thumbs up from me.

As much as it pains me to be a dissenting voice in amongst so many esteemed reviewers, I absolutely loathed Citron Citron. The opening few minutes gave me Bratwurst and black pepper, which made me wonder whether this fragrance should not be called "Imbiss". As I write this some hours later, I cannot get beyond the pepper sensation, with only a soupcon of citrus to sweeten the pill. With the numerous citric ingredients, I am surprised how lacking in freshness this is. This is an ill conceived blend with no redeeming features.

A piece of fragrant minimalism from Creed. I detect that there is a lot going on here, but my nose is simply to unwieldy to pick them up. It has the obligatory Creed rich finish, but I can see little to commend parting with the vast quantity of pennies required to purchase this.

At the beginning of my love for fragrances, I assumed that I would only appreciate something that I would enjoy wearing, but I now know that there is a category that can be evaluated objectively for the complex and aesthetically pleasing structures that they are. C&S Neroli is one of the fragrances that I can view this way. The citrus opening of neroli and orange reaches an impressive intensity without the sense that it has been achieved by chemical means,and it is worth trying this scent just for this brief experience alone. I found the subsequent introduction of Ylang Ylang more difficult to live with, but taking a wider view of this, it is a product that demands and ultimately gains your respect. I regard this as a niche item in almost every way, but on the occasions where I want to smell as interesting as my conversation, this is one to embrace.

Oh mama! This encounter was more than a compensation for the legions of saccharin mediocrity that I have had to endure recently. Whereas Guerlain Veitiver takes the scenic route from application to dry down, Original Vetiver takes the express route, and it is utterly delightful. There is a eucalyptus type hollowness on application, but it is muted and a little sweet. There is no sucker punch from the vetiver, it merely remains when other components have faded away. For such a rich composition, this achieves it's goals without fuss or fanfare. Every phase of this fragrance is an utter joy.

This had a rather unpleasant genesis on my parchmentesque skin,There was an obnoxious blend of Fruit Gums and body odour, but in fairness,this only lasted a brief time. When it dries down, it settles into a very languid stride, which is reminiscent of one the stages of Terre D'Hermes.It has longevity, decent sillage, and it is as smooth as a freshly buttered banister. Beautiful

This tries very hard not to stand out, and in that it succeeds wonderfully. The opening is fresh and lively with a strong citrus accord, but barely evolves at all when it dries down. I could easily achieve similar levels of complexity using a high street shower gel. Pretty bland and uninspiring

Not even nibbling Prozac from the crests of a Supermodel's buttocks would be as pleasurable as using this wonderful fragrance. Mesmerizing, melodic and divine, and surprisingly,all this from a designer fragrance, Simply stunning.

This is a well made piece of confectionary from YSL. It immersed me in a buttered popcorn cloud that took some hours to become even vaguely muted, This sort of sweetness sits uncomfortably with me, as I am neither young enough nor effeminate enough to wear this with confidence. It should however be lauded for it's beautiful balance of ingredients. It has an obtrusive sillage, and never felt as though it would overpower either myself or the company I was in. Small pulses of fragrance orbited my body consistently for the whole day. It is for this impressive chemical architecture that I believe it is a thumbs up. I don't like it's face, but it has a body to die for.

Being shackled to Cuba for the first few minutes was deeply unpleasant. It was industrial and terrible artificial. However, within the hour it had mutated into something a little more worthwhile. Having recently tried No. 88 from C & S I was familiar with acidity of the Rose, but I am not convinced that it really works as part of the constituent parts of a man's fragrance. It is now the end of the day and I can confirm it has a very acceptable longevity. I can live with this, but whether this would ever lead to more than friendship, I am not sure.

This was very fresh and intoxicating when first applied, but the dry down really is pretty tame. It could possibly be useful for a pick-me-up, or for a casual gathering where you want that "out of the shower" smell. Minimal sillage and longevity. Hard to imagine purchasing this

I have never been assailed by Geraniums before, but the ones in the opening gave me quite a kicking. This starts off as a fearsome fragrance. Once you have lived with it for a while it settles into something very cultured and masculine. This is not for the nervy or timid as the sillage is prodigous. I have entered this into my weekly rotation, for the days when I am feeling bold and confident. One could consider this one of those scents that requires more than one try before you get it. It is well worth the effort.

This is a fine example of a Creed "Fresh" fragrance. For two or three hours this is a glorious experience as you allow your body heat to pulse warm gusts of citrus and bergamot. Sadly the joy is ephemeral, and after this brief period it settles down into something vague and bland. Still, the brightest star often burns the briefest.

Very sharp opening wash redolent of citrus and violets. The dry down has an unpleasant spike which reminds me of curry powder. A deeply disappointing blend of ill matched ingredients.

This is a good offering from Creed, but not a great one. It is warm,fragrant and earthy, but it does not excite me enough to warrant the necessary outlay to own this. The Rosemary and Lavender combination ensure that there is a little bite behind the sweet accord. I tried this in the middle of winter, and I can well imagine this repsonding well to warmer weather. I did like the fact that you get to the midldle notes very quickly, which could be a distinct advantage on certain occasions. I will only pay Creed prices for something outstanding, so i doubt I will ever own this.

I certainly admire this, but I cannot quite imagine how I would wear it. No opening application has ever drawn a "wow " from me, but this succeeded. It is astonishingly floral and almost unbearable, but it goes from zero to hero very quickly. In an hour it had settled into a fragrance still bordering on the feminine, but just staying this side of acceptable. I don't really have the personality to pull this one off, but perhaps this is one I will have to come back to when my taste evolves. This is unusual, but has great longevity.

As a citrus fan, I found this disappointing. The top notes remind me of harsh industrial cleaning fluid, and it never really recovers from this inauspicious opening. I was left with a one dimensional citrus spike that left me regretting it's application. Eau Sauvage and Acqua Di Parma do this type of fragrance so much better.

Sometimes you just want something simple that does exactly what it says on the tin. This is just such a product.After a rather soapy opening, it dried down swiftly and left me feeling clean and fragrant. The longevity was pretty good, and it retained it's class for the remainder of the day.

Going into the test somewhat blind, I had guessed that the introduction would be my old friend the Violet. In fact I had made the acquaintance of Clary Sage, which was new to me. On close inspection it has the initial femininity of Violet, but Clary Sage has a a lot more depth to it and in my opinion is very masculine. When we get to the dry down combination of Patchouli and Sandalwood we are entering into familiar territory. The dry down is still imbued with the Sage, and I could live with the result day in day out. It is a classy blend of herbs and Patchouli which will stay with me.

It is difficult to pick a favourite fragrance of all time as often it depends on your frame of mind or under what circumstances you are using one, but I think I will find it almost impossible to find something to top Bois du Portugal. I would suggest that you live with this for a while before you pass complete judgement. It actually acts on me as a pick-me-up. I feel better just by using it on a regular basis. This is a rich varied scent, weaving a heady tapestry into the opening accord, before settling into the eponymous woody tones. These evolve through the entire day, becoming somewhat sweeter towards the evening. This is perfect for 3 seasons of the year, summer wear would not be suggested for this fragrant behemoth.

The opening reminded me very much of Christmas in Germany, with the combination of pine needles and cinammon biscuits. It is quite a heady opening, and not something that I would have cared to take around with me all day. Thankfully it does settle down into something very warm and seductive, although it took a good two hours to get there. This was on the cusp of Thumbs up/Neutral, but I will be generous as it does improve with time. I have to say that I loathe the bottle, appearances are important to me, and aesthetically it does not please me on sufficient levels.

Purchasing this was a rather uncomfortable experience. I was at the front of quite a queue, and when I asked for XS from the shelf, I half expected it to be given to me in a brown paper bag. I am not normally prone to purchasing fragrances on the cheap side, but I felt it was worth revisiting an old friend. The opening is a big bergamot hello, and I wanted to look in the box for the droopy moustache,medallion and Barry White CD that would so perfectly accompany this big "Ta-da". Thankfully, the middle notes took control of this chaotic opening, and the effect is quite glorious. For me,the sense of Juniper is the key to this fragrance, it has the strength and the character to define this. I have had no hesitation in adding this to my wardrobe.It may be cheap, but it certainly comes with a wonderful personality. Longevity is not great, but I have the After Shave version, so it is bound to be a little on the weak side.

My opening guess with the top note was that it might be oranges, but iced mango was a new one for me. It is the dominant note in the opening aria, and once it dies, so does the whole fragrance, The middle notes are muted and unobtrusive, but this seems like a scent with a lack of identity. This is nothing new and does not represent value for money.

The blueprint for a modern cologne appears to be to ensure that the dry down must have that distinctive vanilla edge to it. This is no exception, and I was disappointed to end up smelling as if I had applied Dunhill London or some other cheap confection. Having said that, it does do the confection with a degree of class, and it is kept out of the middle range of fragrances merely by the fact that there is some richness in there, with several layers to this struggling to subdue the vanilla, but with little success. A gallant try by Penhaligon's to appeal to the younger market, but I feel they better served developing their range of conservative fragrances.

A warm an amiable fragrance, that delighted me on every level. The opening salvo was a mixture of wood and leather, but thus moved on with some alacrity. The dry down evoked a sense of cloves and cinammon, and I found this an engaging blend that enchanted for the rest of the day. This is not a spectacular scent, but it could stride into my daily rotation with some confidence. I can see this working best in the months either side of summer when the temperatures are in the middle range

Fresh Pine and Citrus on the opening wash. Dries down quickly. There is an edge to it and wants to be noticed. A professional would wear this.If it were a garment, it would be a fine shirt with french cuffs and expensive cuff-links.It is a tad oily at first, but it still feels classy. It has a potential for entering my office rotation or for the better social gatherings. Softens and sweetens slightly on dry down, and is very amiable.

It is perhaps best to get straight to the point and state that this is a sickly concoction. From the sherbet explosion in the opening wash to the sucrose vanilla dry down, this has nothing to commend it. The only person I can see this appealing to would be a childrens television presenter, or perhaps a clown. My only application for this would be to attract the ants in the summer.

I often bemoan the fact that a fragrance has little longevity, but in this case I would be thankful for it to disappear instantly. What saddens me more is that this should come from the esteemed house of Dunhill

The opening is awash with wet pine,flora and citrus but it recedes exceptionally quickly.I agree with the previous reviewer who noted the similarities with Bulgari, but in my opinion this has a little more depth and sophistication. It will not blow you are away, but it settles into a fine summer fragrance. It is nowhere near the top of my favourites list, but I could easily live with this.

I am not normally impressed by a fragrance that sounds like a battery, or indeed one whose bottle looks like a nerdy thermos flask, but it was refreshing,light and floral nonetheless. Despite not really reacting with my rather dry skin very well, it does smell quite sophisticated. My only complaint really is the marketing and the rather disappointing lack of evolution in the dry down phase. It never really goes anywhere, and fades into blandness quite swiftly. I can see Kenzo selling this by the shed-load at Christmas, but I cannot see any reason why anyone would go out and purchase this and use it regularly. A triumph of marketing of substance.

An air freshener for the soul. This is an adorable fragrance from the first sighting of the bottle to the brisk dry down that follows. In a few seconds I was transported to a woody glade surrounded by nymphs and elves gamboling playfully in the morning dew.....sorry.

Seriously, this is simply beautiful, a sublime creation that belongs in everyones collection. Wearing this in the summer will lift your spirits and freshen your outlook in an instant.It has decent sillage, longevity and is very sophisticated. I cannot commend this highly enough.

It is obvious from the initial inhalation that this fragrance has some pedigree. Once the top notes have dissipated, I was left with a blend of cherry menthol and floor wax, albeit expensive floor wax. Although not altogether unpleasant I was not amazed by it. It has an obvious quality about it, giving the impression the wearer was trying just a little too hard. Applications and uses might be for a formal occasion where such an obtrusive fragrance might be in keeping with the rest of the ensemble, but I can see scant use for it elsewhere.

My first impressions of this were "Oh good god no". An utterly acrid and insipid brew bordering on the repellent. The initial blast reminded me of aniseed and cloves but it dries down leaving a dull spike similar to a generic high street shower gel. I can imagine someone with leather wristbands wearing this to an Elbow concert. It has no class, and no redeeming features whatsoever.

I wanted this to run across the street and embrace me, but all I got was a polite little wave. Sadly it has not got the class to get away with being so discreet. The opening waft of Violets promised much, but they disappeared to leave me with Fahrenheit light.

It is not terrible, and I can imagine it being used as a muted autumnal daily, or an evening freshener if your better stuff is running low, but it really is not as good as it thinks it is.

Give this as a gift to your friends, and you will know you will always smell better than the recipient.

I am an ardent admirer of the menswear that Canali produce, so I tested this with high expectations. Sadly,it never quite scaled the heights that I had hoped. The top note is warm and pleasant, but it quickly sits back and admires it's work. If it had kicked on and produced a warm and vibrant fragrance I would have been satisfied, but it seems as if Canali have taken the safe route. This is so similar to a mass of fragrances on the market, it scarcely warrants a place in the shops. If they had marketed it under the name "6/10" it would have been kinder to the potential buyer. The whole package from box, bottle and fragrance is boring. It is inoffensive enough, but you would not want to get stuck in a lift with it.

I really tried to like this, but it is just a little too coy for my taste. The top note promised much, but faded almost instantly into the kind of fragrance I can get from a deodorant. There may be a place for this after an evening shower and a late night assignation somewhere in the summer, but it lacks the cajones to make this worthy of regular use.

My first encounter with this legendary fragrance was not a pleasant one. I had built my hopes so high, and was looking for a long term relationship with Acqua di Parma, but I found it almost impossible to imagine using this on a daily basis in any situation. It's appeal is very narrow indeed,and it's top note and dry down are very harsh. However, it was not until I realised that it was not the cologne that was at fault, it was me, I was not good enough for it. It was necessary for me to raise my game and only engage it when I was groomed to the level for which it was designed.

This is a benchmark fragrance, and it's use is very limited. Given it's severe nature, it lends itself to a severe ensemble. Wearing it with a tuxedo or with a bespoke suit when you are groomed to the hilt is an amazing experience. It not only elevates ones self esteem, it augments the groomed effect to a level of enlightment. This is a specialist cologne, and almost untouchable at the job it was designed to do.