Reviews by rogalal

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    rogalal
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    Oud by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    A decent mix of patchouli and saffron with berries and rose giving background sweetness, while iso e super gives gentle wafts of smoke. Given time, the saffron backs down, letting an interesting oak that's both sawdusty and ashy come in and play up against the sweet patchouli. Hours later, I'm left with a chypre-ish mix of patchouli and mossy galbanum with residual ashy wood that's probably the best part of the day.

    I don't want to give a negative review of a name, but it's worth pointing out that I would have considerably more respect for this if it had been sold as an interesting patchouli rose woody perfume instead of as a fake oud with a jacked-up price. In the end, this perfume is decent but trodding territory already covered elsewhere, though the transition from saffron patchouli to a chypre base is still clever and well-done enough to merit a thumbs-up, dumb trendy name and horrible price or not...

    02nd December, 2014

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    Blue Escapade 24 by Krigler

    Blue Escapade is, in theory, the vetiver of the Krigler line. The vetiver is strong on top, flanked by touches of pine and something vaguely mentholated, like some combination of eucalyptus and mint, with a big slug of spicy cumin underneath. Given time, the cumin becomes the star of the show. It's sweaty and strong and likely to turn away quite a few people, though the combination of vetiver and cumin and forest smells, with hints of rum and boozy fig in the background, is quite well done and will likely appeal to fans of Declaration and other artsty woody cumin scents. The base is a perfectly rendered oak tree smell, dirty and smelling of bark, with the lingering pinches of cumin to give it a bit of forest raunch and keep it from smelling like a wine barrel.

    In the end, I'm just not a cumin fan, but the combination of the cumin and vetiver and forest smells and boozy fig is excellently put together, and the oak in the base is pretty much perfect, so Blue Escapade really does deserve a thumbs up.

    29th November, 2014

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    Tory Burch by Tory Burch

    An enormous portion of perfume consumers seem to fall into a specific category: Women who want a perfume that smells like every other perfume, but sold by whatever luxury brand she wishes she could afford this year, replacing an almost identical perfume in her wardrobe made by whatever brand she wished she could afford last year. I don't mean that to sound cynical - it's just how the industry works.

    Tory Burch is clearly hoping to be this holiday's aspirational winner, scoring big with a cool bottle, but not bringing much to the table for the educated collector, just that same mix of 90's peach, strawberry shampoo, fake-selling rose, overplayed pink pepper, and tired vanilla that every girl at the office and the bar after work smells like.

    26th November, 2014

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    Lalique (new) by Lalique

    There's an old drag queen phrase: She's trying too hard but not hard enough. It means that, unless you're going to really work hard and be good at something, it's better to not try than to be unimaginative or dull.

    That's what I kept thinking when I wore Lalique. It's a soapy, sparkling aldehyde that wants to smell classy, but it's built on a structure of cheap-smelling fruity floral cliches (that over-used peach, that cheap-shampoo strawberry, dull fake rose, and cheap clove meant to simulate carnation). It's not Sophia Loren in a ball gown, it's Katy Perry in a prom dress.

    That being said, it's not awful. It just isn't trying quite hard enough. But that bottle is gorgeous, though...

    26th November, 2014

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    Perfectly Marvelous by Diana Vreeland

    I've really been enjoying Perfectly Marvelous because it manages to be simultaneously weird, luxurious, beautiful, and hauntingly ugly.

    Ostensibly, it's a mix of jasmine and sandalwood, but the sandalwood is that super-rich buttery kind that Serge Lutens uses and the jasmine is expensive-smelling and almost ridiculously indolic, calling to mind A La Nuit. There's a fairly upfront tobacco smell that's drier than usual, giving the illusion of warm dry hay, while cherry and vanilla hum in the background.

    It's quite difficult to put into words what Perfectly Marvelous actually smells like. It creates a unique synergy, a completely bewildering smell that comes from the mix of indoles, hay, and butter. I find it compelling, but I wouldn't be surprised if many people find it gross or uncomfortably weird. In a way that's sort of literal and very metaphorical, it's the smell of rotting flowers, but the buttery hay brings illusions of both countryside and glamour. This may be my pick for the best new scent of 2014, though I suspect that I may end up being one of its only supporters...

    26th November, 2014

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    Juniper Sling by Penhaligon's

    It's not that there's anything wrong with Juniper Sling. What it does, I like. Despite the crowded notes list, I smell mostly clary sage, with a hint of pine from the juniper berry, a bit of salt to give the illusion of fizziness, and some iso e super smoke. It just sort of hangs around smelling unremarkably herbal and green, eventually ending up as a minimalist version of a chypre base, mostly galbanum and the lingering herbs.

    But it's just kind of dull. It wears very thin (though it has plenty of lasting power) and, in my opinion, veers from "minimalist" into "dull". I think it could be argued that Juniper Sling was inspired by Terre d'Hermes, particularly its combination of iso e super and herbs, but while TdH is compelling in its weirdness, Sling keeps things safe, possibly to its detriment. Meh.

    21st November, 2014

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    Batucada by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    OK, so Batucada is a fairly dumb tropical fruity floral, but I don't hate it nearly as much as my fellow reviewers. After a quick shot of sparkly fruit punch (mostly peach, strawberry, and pineapple, to my nose), it settles down to a cumin-inflected skin smell mixed with hints of salt air and rum, while the pineapple lasts into the drydown.

    Honestly, I've had the best luck with Batucada in cold weather, which brings out a slightly indolic coconutty ylang that I could be called a neutered tribute to Black Orchid, but provides a good foil for the pineapple/rum combo.

    21st November, 2014

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    Black Flower Mexican Vanilla by Dame Perfumery

    Maybe it's the crisp fall weather, but Black Flower has quietly won me over. It's primarily a fairly tame but animalic civet musk paired with tobacco-ish tonka and ethyl maltol vanilla, so it is reminiscent of the drydown of Shalimar, but with hazelnut and burnt caramel undertones. Given time, as the animalics fade, it takes on a sweet, lightly powdery amber feel that makes for a fitting drydown.

    It's worth noting that ethyl maltol is the "cheap" marshmallowy vanilla made famous by Pink Sugar (and an ingredient that almost always elicits a bad review from me), but the musk, tonka, and other elements here are combined so perfectly that Black Flower never feels silly or immature. Instead, it rides a fine line between sultry and comforting.

    As far as indie perfumes go, this is a fantastic first work, polished and professional. I look forward to smelling whatever else Dame Perfumery comes up with.

    19th November, 2014

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    China White by Nasomatto

    I've had an enjoyable time getting to know China White. At first, I found it confounding, but it eventually fell into place.

    At its core, it's got all the trappings of a classic powdery amber - vanilla combining with incense and sandalwood, sweet but more perfumey than edible. Top that with an unexpected cinnamon apple combo and an abstract chemical undertone along the lines of nail polish remover mixed with absinth, and you have a decent idea of how China White smells.

    As gross as this could have turned out, it deftly remains sweet but not edible, rooted in history but ultimately modern, and artsy but still approachable. It's strong and, being composed heavily of concentrated basenotes (it's an extrait), it lasts pretty much forever.

    14th November, 2014

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    Iris Tubereuse by Creed

    A decent heady floral. It's a fairly loud tuberose tempered with orange blossom and tiny touches of iris and cheesy gardenia and a slight aldehydic sparkle early on. It's sweet but not edible and owes a debt of gratitude to Giorgio Beverly Hills (that's not a put-down - I like Giorgio's sweet, rich mix of tuberose and orange blossom).

    It's a decent perfume, but doesn't smell particularly expensive (this doesn't smell like really rich real iris, for example), and it dries down to that unbelievable stupid salty musk woman-shampooing-her-hair-in-a-hot-shower smell, so I'm forced to downvote Iris Gardenia to a neutral vote...

    06th October, 2014

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    Light My Fire by By Kilian

    I have to admit - I was getting a little scared for By Killian. Their Asian collection (except for the decent sandalwood one) was boring, and that girls-night-in-Vegas collection was straight-up wannabe-mainstream silliness. Thankfully, their decidedly masculine Addictive State Of Mind collection demonstrates their original creativity.

    The big star of Light My Fire is a huge hay/tobacco/coumarin note, like a mix of blond woods and almond soaked in booze. It sits on top of a very dark supporting structure, a complex mix of patchouli, fruit, violets, and subtle aldehydes that smells like black cherry soda (do they still make black cherry soda?) at first and ends up as a very inky dark plum that's more gothic than edible.

    Light My Fire will likely appeal to fans of ostensibly masculine tobacco-forward scents like Chergui and Reflection Man. The background elements clearly demonstrate a Feminite du Bois inspiration, but the perfume as a whole is original and unique enough to not feel like a copy or a rip-off.

    Though this isn't really my style, I think it deserves a thumbs up for quality and creativity.

    03rd October, 2014

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    Intoxicated by By Kilian

    A nice coffee gourmand. Intoxicated is built on a backbone of that sweet condensed milk smell made famous by Angel. The coffee is mostly notable in the topnotes, flanked by pie spices (mace, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc.) and rendered vaguely boozy by some kind of sharp green herb that hints at absinthe or a mojito.

    Over the day, the smell is a long slow transformation into green herbs (maybe rosemary?) over that sweet condensed milk smell.

    Realistically, comparisons to Angel and A*Men Pure Coffee are unavoidable and apt, but Intoxicated doesn't have the loud patchouli creme brulee of its predecessors, and doesn't wallow in its lavender like A*Men. I like it (I've always thought that A*Men could do with some subtraction, as opposed to the never-ending additions Mugler seems to love), though I expect most reviews to complain about price and lack of originality.

    27th September, 2014

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    Chêne by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    It has honestly taken me a long time to fall for Chêne. I usually like wood scents, but Chêne has a weird sweetness and not-so-subtle funk that never really spoke to me until recently. Perhaps I just needed to wear it on a particularly nice day, but now I’m enjoying it.

    So what does it smell like? Oak, mostly. There’s a standard oak note in niche perfumes (especially the Duchoufour L’Artisans) that’s almost exaggeratedly dry and very dusty – this isn’t that. Instead, it’s more like moist tree bark. There are undertones of maple syrup, moss, and fresh earth, with a fairly strong leathery sweaty note in there as well. There’s a hard-to-place red sweetness (maybe berries or cedar) that hints at red wine, though Chêne smells to me more like a grove of trees than a winery.

    Nice.

    24th September, 2014

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    Sa Majesté la Rose by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    On a good day, Sa Majesté la Rose is probably the best rose perfume I've smelled. It's like burying your nose in some sort of fantastic, hyper-realistic mega-rose, replete with a very natural-smelling piquant sheen and undertones of peach, honey, and cassis. Absolutely nothing about Sa Majesté smells artificial or cheap, including the quiet honeyed sandalwood drydown.

    That being said, all the best divas can be temperamental, and I've had days where Sa Majesté smells like someone peed on a beautiful rose perfume. For that reason, I haven't splurged on a bottle, though I would absolutely suggest giving it a sniff to see how it works on you.

    23rd September, 2014

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    Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Meh. Imagine a really stereotypical fruity floral - cassis and fake rose and other fake flowers over pink pepper. Now, imagine a fabric softener or dryer sheet that mostly smells like fabric softener, but lightly scented with that fruity floral smell. Then, add some fake-smelling citrus. There. That's Aqua Universalis.

    It's a more nuanced smell than you usually get from laundry detergent and such (if he had kept this as a scent for his detergent and scented bubbles, it would have been fine), but it seriously lacks panache as a fine perfume.

    21st June, 2014

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    Plum by Mary Greenwell

    Plum's topnotes are clearly meant to appeal to fairly mainstream luxury perfume shoppers. It's got that cassis smell that perfumers love to say is plum or just about any other red fruit, mixed with rose and violets and bubblegummy jasmine. There's mint in there as well, probably in an attempt to balance the silly fruitiness (though it ends up smelling like Florabotanica). If I'm making this sound intriguing, it isn't. This smells like any other dumb but expensive fruity floral that comes and goes at Neiman Marcus.

    Thankfully, only the topnotes are dumbed down, and things get much better given a little time. A rather large tuberose note comes in eventually and pulls everything together, acting as a luxurious backbone to the mint and flowers, while the fruit dies away. A dry tobacco leaf/tonka smell comes in later and leads into the base, where a surprising vetiver takes over.

    I just don't know what to say at this point. Everything except the stupid plum is great. It's rich and concentrated, clever and unique, and keeps its balance during what could have been difficult transitions. And yet it's clearly and obviously dumbed down to the point that many serious perfumistas would likely write this off after a quick sniff on paper. Maybe it's a good fit for the Florabotanica fanatics, or for people who aren't as closed-minded as me when it comes to fruity florals...

    20th June, 2014

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    Bel Respiro by Chanel

    It smells to me like Bel Respiro is Chanel's entry in the "aquatic floral" genre, typified by mixes of melon and lily. As a genre, these are usually fairly simple and often quite similar, but Bel Respiro breaks the mold by adding in a lot of intricacy. For a start, there's citrus on top, as well as a pinch of tomato leaf for added green. It's a bit peppery, and the florals are much more nuanced that the simple lily mixes that usually characterize this style.

    There's also a strong chemical component to the smell - both an undertone of fabric softener musks and a thick "watery" sheen that's almost the star of the scent. As such, Bel Respiro isn't very literal - it's an abstract expression of a shaded pond surrounded by flowers, or maybe an Elizabethan garden on a hot morning just after its been watered and everything is dripping wet. Not that it smells like these in a specific scientific sense, but more in a theoretical sense.

    All in all, I think Bel Respiro is an intelligent, artful perfume, very much deserving of a thumbs up, just for its artistic and symbolic complexity, but I'm not really a fan of melon and I don't particularly enjoy smelling like weird "limpid watery" chemicals, so it's not really the perfume for me.

    20th June, 2014

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    Lalique pour Homme by Lalique

    When I fist started collecting scents years ago, I used to go to the mens counter somewhere, spray everything I could get my hands on, and then take all the sprayed strips home with me. On the train ride home, my bag would smell like an epic, dizzying pool of masculine ingredients. That's what Lalique Homme reminds me of: an impossibly complex mix of everything masculine.

    It strikes me as kind of amber, but there's a lavender fougere in there, as well as what seems to be a full chypre structure, in addition to citrus and just about any masculine herb you can imagine. Imagine layering a classic "oriental" like Coromandel with an 80's powerhouse AND a metallic lavender like Polo AND an herbal citrus cologne, but all with a sweetness that's clearly inspired by Le Male. It's as heady and confounding as it sounds, but the amazing part is that they somehow make it work. Through genius, hard work, or sheer luck, all the disparate elements not only get along, but manage to bring out each others nuances, resulting in a thick slab of manliness.

    So why the neutral rating? I just don't like it that much, personally. It's sweeter than I'd like, and the lavender has a metallic sheen that's just not my style. So, ultimately, it's not for me, but I respect it.

    14th June, 2014

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    Velvet Rope by Apothia

    Weird mentholated eucalyptus that smells quite a bit like Carmex lip balm mixed with hyper-sweet fake fruit over a pink pepper/patchouli/marshmallow base. It really clashes badly for an hour or two before settling into something that smells like a mix of original "plain" chapstick and cherry chapstick.

    I see what this is trying for - attempting to use the minty woods to lend depth to a sweet fruity floral, but the end result smells like a mess to me. That being said, Velvet Rope has a quirky "manic pixie" quality (like a cute weird girl in a movie) that I could imagine would be appealing to some. But alas, not me...

    14th June, 2014

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    Wonderstruck by Taylor Swift

    Having heard that Wonderstruck is one of the best celebuscents out there, I've hesitantly given it a try. I can see the appeal - it's based on a rather traditional attar of rose, sandalwood, and patchouli. It's even got a simulated oud humming very very quietly in the background. Unfortunately, it's dumbed WAY down with a ton of fake red berries on top, and a big slug of pink pepper, so it's very much a mall fruitchouli. The fruit and patchouli focus is so pedestrian that it's really hard to give this anything but a thumbs-down, but the subtle darkness and the lack of marshmallow histrionics is enough to lift this to a neutral.

    That being said, unless the local Walmart is literally your only possible source of perfumery, there are many options that equal or better this.

    12th June, 2014

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    Oud 27 by Le Labo

    It's been stated before but bears repeating that Oud 27 was one of the first few niche oud scents to show up outside of Montale. At the time, its leathery saffron and upfront birch tar earned it a reputation as quite animalic, but now that we've all smelled dozens more of these, including truly animalic stinkers like Al Aoud and Bond's Harrods Swarkovsy Oud, Oud 27 feels quite tame by comparison, more like something CDG would do than the smell of a true fecal oud.

    That being said, I still think Oud 27 is great. The rubbery oud plays against traditional sandalwood and a pinch of rose for sweetness, while smoky saffron lends strong leathery support. Over time, the birch tar picks up the heavy lifting, while the smoky woods settle into a slow burn. There's no barnyard stink or any of the moldy band-aid smells that typify real oud - this is an oud for fashionophiles at Barneys, not locals at a Cambodian bazaar. It's quite beautiful, though in a very dark way, but if you're looking for the huge stinker promised in the early reviews, you may be disappointed.

    10th June, 2014

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    Fleur de Liane by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I suppose it's almost a niche cliche by now: The melon/lily "aquatic" floral. Fleur de Liane is/was L'Artisan's try at the genre. Honestly, it's better than most, but I'm not sure that's high praise.

    The big attraction is a juicy, realistic cantaloup on top, flanked with salt and pepper, lilies, some cucumber and maybe some aloe vera, and some of that green-smelling "aquatic" chemical that was so popular in the 90's. It loses the cantaloup and gains some soapiness over time.

    At least for me personally, I lost the ability to take these scents seriously after Purell hand sanitizer became ubiquitous and the smell of that "aquatic" chemical mixed with fake cucumber fell from the realms of high perfumery and became the smell of cheap sanitary cleaning. As far as the genre goes, that clever cantaloup places Fleur de Liane close to the top of the heap, but I still prefer Hermes Un Jardin Apres La Mousson, which takes the same basic building blocks but drenches them in enough black pepper to keep it from smelling like hand cleaner.

    10th June, 2014

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    Joséphine by Rancé 1795

    I don't know the name of the chemical, but there's that ingredient in older perfumes that smells like gross 80's pump hairspray - that sickly liquid plastic smell. Josephine features this pretty heavily, which mostly serves to take a mediocre honeyed rose floral and make it smell terribly cheap. There's other stuff going on, like a touch of peach and some of that fake strawberry that shows up in cheaper rose perfumes. There's a clever pinch of woody hawthorn which temporarily gives all that plasticky cheap fruity rose a subtle undertone of warm cherry blossom, which is enough to raise this review from a thumbs-down to a neutral, but really, that plastic mixing with the weird honey note under all that cheap-smelling fake rose and fruit is just a hot mess.

    At least older perfumes that use that hairspray note usually fade down to a passable chypre, but Josephine ends up with a pink pepper/patchouli drydown that's decidedly "mall". If you like the type of older perfumes that this is supposed to be a tribute to, I'd suggest hunting them down as opposed to wasting energy on Josephine, which is actually fairly expensive.

    10th June, 2014

    rating


    Gendarme V by Gendarme

    Ostensibly, this smells like soap. But it's got orange blossom and a touch of neroli dancing on top of a white soap smell, so it's quite floral - it reminds me of gold Dial soap, a smell that I really enjoy, hence the thumbs up.

    This floral soap takes place on top of a warm-body-in-a-shower smell that's weirdly salty. Honestly, this shower body trick has become a bit of a cliche nowadays, but V deserves some sort of credit for jumping the bandwagon early.

    As much as I'm unimpressed by the body smell, it works as a clever foil for the soap smell, and I REALLY like that soap smell...

    09th June, 2014

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    Neroli 36 by Le Labo

    An interesting orange blossom perfume, indolic and painted green with neroli in the beginning. It's quite salty, which is a bit of a modern touch. It eventually dries down to a neroli/orange blossom mix over sweet soap, a mixture that reminds me of Giorgio Beverly Hills, though the salt and a hard-to-describe sort of roughness sets apart Neroli 36 from Giorgio's loud but perfectly coiffed perfumeyness. As the flowers slowly fade, that salty hot soapy body smell comes in, bringing Neroli 36 into Fire Island territory until the florals dissipate altogether, leaving a weird salty soap base.

    All in all, Neroli 36 does some interesting things. I generally don't feel completely comfortable in heady florals, but it's actually all that salt and the kitschy hot-body-in-the-shower novelty smell that have dropped this from a thumbs up to a neutral. It's good, but not for me.

    28th May, 2014

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    Vetiver by Santa Maria Novella

    I haven't even come close to smelling the dozens of SMN perfumes, but the one's I find locally, as well as many of their signature soaps, body, and home products share a certain "Santa Maria Novella" signature smell. It's a sort of herbal potpourri smell drowned in soapy powder.

    To me, this is the "x factor" that separates SMN's Vetiver from so many others. The vetiver itself is solid and strong, bitter and pungent, but the soapy powdery potpourri smell rounds off the rough edges, leaving it more "perfumey" than many vetivers. There's also a fairly forward geranium, as well as mossy green galbanum making things a bit old-smelling and fusty. The other element that stands out is a weird nutty, woody, nutmeg smell that somehow combines with the SMN signature soap to smell very abstract - kind of like a big slab of nutty woody bread laced with coffee sitting there with the vetiver, greens, and soapy smells.

    It's a very complex smell, much more so than most vetivers. For fans of mossy, powdery, old-fashioned scents that are still masculine, SMN Vetiver could be grail material. Personally, I find it intellectually stimulating, but ultimately too garnished. I like vetivers because they have an exciting rawness - SMN Vetiver is too loaded down and smoothed over to be exciting.

    17th May, 2014

    rating


    Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford

    I find vetiver, as a smell, very jagged - The olfactory equivalent of those long blades of grass that are sharp enough to cut skin, especially if you rub them the wrong way. Some of my favorite vetivers (like Guerlain) leave the smell rough and pointy. Others try to soften it with musks, burying it in soap until it can't hurt anybody.

    Grey Vetiver chooses a third option, which is what make it stand out. It's beachy. There's a ton of salt on top, as well as that herbs-on-a-salty-breeze Acqua di Gio effect. There's also a pinch of that 90's "marine" note, which I usually hate, but is used so carefully here that it actually works. It wouldn't surprise me if Grey Vetiver has an extremely high concentration of calone.

    If I'm making Grey Vetiver sound cheap or dumb, it's very much not. It's got the requisite lemon facets and nutmeg in the drydown, but the inherent roughness of the vetiver is perfectly smoothed by the beachy air smells. Definitely a thumbs up.

    17th May, 2014

    rating


    Sunday Cologne / Fantastic Man by Byredo

    Citrus and woods, kind of like cedar, but not in a literal way. There's also a kitchen cabinet full of cooking spices - high-pitched pepper and ginger, as well as woody anise, with just a hint of animalic cumin for depth. Surrounding this, there's a pool of familiar chemical smells, most notably that green synthetic "marine" smell, as well as that ubiquitous metallic rubbing alcohol "woody amber", all wrapped up in a heady dose of iso e super smoke.

    Given time, a leathery birch tar comes in, smartening up the base and keeping this from devolving into a stupid aquatic.

    As for the Terre d'Hermes comparison, it's fairly apt, though TDH is abstract (there's not much of anything in it that smells like a "thing" - it smells more like a concept or and idea than a pile of ingredients) while Fantastic Man is grounded in recognizable spices and smells, so it has a different sort of appeal.

    All in all, I quite enjoy the interplay of wood and smoke and spices, but that metal smell just irks me to the point where I can't give this a thumbs up.

    13th May, 2014

    rating


    Bois d'Arménie by Guerlain

    A pleasant, sweet, powdery amber. On me, the focus of the scent is that interplay when benzoin meets vanilla and incense, creating a polite amber smell. The incense is deepened with dusty sandalwood and what smells like oak and just a touch of green in the background from a pinch of opoponax, but the vanilla is that marshmallowy-sweet ethyl maltol, so Bois d'Armenie is much sweeter than your average amber. That being said, the high dose of benzoin makes sure everything stays powdery and fluffy-soft.

    All in all, I prefer my ambers rough and smoky as opposed to sweet and fluffy, so Bois d'Armenie has yet to win me over, but it's a well made perfume. Just not for me.

    11th May, 2014

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    Géranium pour Monsieur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    The first few times I tried Geranium Pour Monsieur, I just didn't like the mint. Coming back to it a couple of years later, the mint doesn't bother me - what once seemed like a tremendous mistake now feels integrated and thought-out.

    To my nose, Geranium Pour Monsieur basically takes all the facets of natural rose geranium and exaggerates them, so it's got more minty brightness, more flowery nuances, more licorice undertones, and more leafy greens. It's kind of like someone colored in a picture in a coloring book using the right colors, but much brighter versions of the right colors, so the whole thing has a weird sort of exaggerated vibration to it that makes it surreal.

    In the end, I sort of like Geranium Pour Monsieur now, yet somehow, hours in, I just stop caring, and this is something that seems to happen with all the geranium scents I've tried. I love geranium as a supporting actor (I love the dark heft it give to Encre Noir or the deep green it lends to Guerlain's Vetiver), but I tend to tire of it in a starring role.

    10th May, 2014

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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000