Perfume Reviews

Reviews by lunarpanic

Total Reviews: 17

Omnia by Bulgari

Very underrated and underexposed, exhibits the grace that seems to typify Bulgari scents. Whereas Bulgari's jewellery is so often so gaudy, their fragrances are so restrained and poised. Sweet without being at all cloying and spicy but not gratingly so. Apparently gourmand in composition yet not the sickly sugary kind of thing that the word "gourmand" often refers to. Yes, as others have pointed out, very easily unisex, and I find the sillage quite good. I bought it for my mother and sprayed some on her wrist, I'm sure I didn't get any on myself but I kept getting whiffs of it all day. Downright charming.
25th January, 2007

Antidote by Viktor & Rolf

Nothin' new here. Familiar fruit-tingles opening that dies a quick death, becoming pretty much nothing in seconds. Could not detect any spice whatsoever - no complexity here, despite the crowded pyramid. Maybe all those notes just cancel each other out?
02nd November, 2006

Bulgari pour Homme Soir by Bulgari

A very common comment at this site: how great the original Bvlgari pour Homme is, and how much greater it would be if it were stronger and had better longevity. So what do Bvlgari do? They put out a weaker, blander version with even less staying power. I don't get it. What's worse is, local department stores are stocking this and no longer stocking the original. And it gets worse still - I was just informed that the same stores are no longer stocking Bvlgari Black or Blv Notte. Yet they continue with the boring, bland Blv. I guess it's just further evidence that bland sells.
13th October, 2006
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Allure Homme by Chanel

By no means unpleasant smelling, and the projection is quite good, however I've always had trouble reconciling the dominant citrus (which lasts throughout) with the milky oriental aspect. In fact it can become cloying. But what worries me most about this, is that I get this feeling, that in a few years time it will inevitably be regarded as "just another one of those scents from that era" (as Drakkar Noir is to the early to mid 80s, Joop! to the 90s etc.) It doesn't distinguish itself sufficiently, for me, from the fresh and fruity trend of the mid to late nineties (that still hasn't gone away) even if it's not as bland as many in that group. It definitely has that "I've smelt this elsewhere" syndrome. In my opinion, Chanel (and Polge) has produced far superior, more stately offerings in Égoïste and Antaeus. And while the latter, a chypre/leather is certainly not an alternative option to Allure, for a far more distinguished, classical oriental, Égoïste is the ticket.
12th October, 2006

Boss in Motion by Hugo Boss

I don't get vanilla or powder, just harsh, sharp chemical fumes reminiscent of cheap shower gel marketed at men and used in gyms. Citric bleach. Gag.
14th September, 2006

Blu pour Homme by Bulgari

Boring. Just boring. I don't get spice, just a sweet, yet bland powder. Such a disappointment from Bvlgari. Go with Blv Notte, far far superior, and not related in any way other than by name.
04th September, 2006

Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier

Oh God, why? Where I'm from, there's a certain demographic that frequent hideous clubs with sleazy DJs who still use strobe lights, sirens and whistles as part of their routine, and play the kind of music you'd expect to hear at a 90s discount hair salon chain, and the preferred drink is pre-mixed bourbon and cola. And they all like to drown themselves in either Le Mâle or Joop! Homme. Well, with this you get the best (worst) of both worlds. I can't think of much worse to be honest, but in fairness, maybe it's just a rite of passage some of us have to go through...
30th August, 2006

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

It's all in the drydown. It does smell a lot like Un Jardin sur le Nil in its beginnings - but for that matter it smells characteristically Hermès – something is shared by all Hermès perfumes, not just the Ellena compositions – for example, I’m distinctly reminded of Équipage and Eau de Merveilles for some reason, even though they’re quite distinct. I’m also reminded a little of L’Artisan’s Passage d’Enfer – they all seem to express that satisfying clash of dusty, even musty, earthiness on the one hand and outdoor, zesty summer freshness on the other. Maybe it’s the cedar…

What sets Terre apart from most other “fresh” or summer fragrances is its longevity and its projection, which is really quite remarkable. I was standing at least a metre or so away from a friend when I was wearing this, she thought our other friend who was standing much closer was wearing it. Her exact words: “You smell like a summer breeze”. You can’t really get a better endorsement than that, can you?
24th August, 2006

VIP Room by VIP Room

Got a sample of this along with Dzing! and something about both of them reminds me of Bvlgari Black, particularly VIP Room. I prefer Black to both, but all have their merits. VIP Room is quite synthetic compared to the other two, and it's missing the smoke of Black (as well as the tea and vanilla notes - well there may be a little vanilla, it's hard to decide), but the rubber is still there, though not as nicely done. But still, it could serve as a Black for juniors, a little bit trashy, bit in a fun way.
20th June, 2006

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I agree this is a little redolent of Bvlgari Black, with it's smoky-rubber beginnings, though it sort of evolves into something more woodsy. It recalls the soft, sweetish spices of bakehouse goods (something sort of close to nutmeg or mace, or perhaps even cassia or cinnamon maybe?) without smelling specifically like any of those, nor at all gourmand. Dzing!, Black and VIP Room all seem to hover around the same theme, though I put Black way ahead of the other two, it's still the most original and chic, and the rubber is stronger. Next Dzing!, then VIP - not as good as Black, but safe and sound.
20th June, 2006

M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

I'm starting to wonder whether everyone's love affair with this (and Rive Gauche pH, for that matter) is just an extension of the world's love affair with Tom Ford? There is something medicinal about it, and it's heady (dizzying) without being particularly rich or deep. Mothballs?
20th June, 2006

Tumulte pour Homme by Christian Lacroix

My opinion of this has softened a little, I sort of admire it for what it wants to be (I'm a big fan of incense notes), but I do find it a bit too aggressive and grating. If you like the idea behind it but are after something less harsh, try 10 Corso Como or Kyoto by CdG. But yes, the bottle is very pretty.
14th June, 2006 (last edited: 20th September, 2006)

Scent Intense by Costume National

Hibiscus is listed in the pyramid for Scent Intense (and a few other scents), which I find puzzling, because I've never known hibiscus to have a fragrance. Perhaps it's some obscure variety I've not encountered. Anyhow, Scent Intense does begin with a floral/tea accord, as has been abundantly pointed out here. I do get some jasmine in there, I think. The base is a rich, dry and to my nose, somewhat salty amber. Red is the colour that comes to mind, for some reason. An earlier review mentions "olive tapenade", which I must admit I kind of relate to. When I first sniffed Scent Intense, I kept thinking of rich, tomatoe pasta sauce. That said, there is nothing about this fragrance that can in any way be called "gourmand".

I do find some of reviewers' observations surprising - I do not, for instance, get a hint of vanilla (thankfully) out of Scent Intense, nor would I describe it as particularly musky. I don't quite understand how one reviewer describes it as "uninteresting" yet refers to it as having "fascinating traits" in the next sentence. Most puzzling of all, those comments that Scent Intense wears close to the skin, and has poor longevity. I find quite the opposite.
05th June, 2006 (last edited: 20th June, 2008)
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Black by Bulgari

One of the most chic and ultra-modern things out there, it's perfectly balanced, simultaneously animal, vegetable, mineral. Sexy yet serious, fun yet dignified and mature without being the least bit fusty or old-fashioned - probably the only truly unisex scent I've encountered - as opposed to many others which are really more androgynous than unisex - in that a woman could wear this and still smell completely feminine, and a man completely masculine, if that makes sense.
05th June, 2006

Dior Homme by Christian Dior

I keep changing my mind about this, I really want to like it, and sometimes, fleetingly, I do, but overall there's something gluey and headache inducing about it. I don't find it particularly warm and certainly not rich. It's dizzying, the way florals can be, and after a while it makes me feel as though I've been inhaling floral scented washing powder. Perhaps it's one I might come to like smelling on others, rather than on myself (though I've not come across anyone wearing it yet).
09th March, 2006 (last edited: 14th September, 2006)

Bulgari pour Homme by Bulgari

This is not, to me, the most beautiful smelling fragrance, yet it is perfect, and surpasses all others. Why? Because it's my favourite to wear. While others may smell appealing (take Joop! PH for example, THE love-hate fragrance of all time) it's just not human to smell like that. After 5 minutes it's like a stain on the skin. But Bvlgari PH never feels anything but just right.
09th March, 2006

A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

Everybody knows that different fragrances smell differently from person to person. But there is another factor I don't think is commented upon as often, but it's exemplified by A*men. And that's that some fragrances, though quite beautiful smelling, just aren't the kind of odour you want to carry around with you. I wore this when it first arrived, for a few years. I really do love the smell, but unfortunately, it doesn't cope well on my skin (ends up smelling like burnt cake or something) but more importantly, even at it's best, I just don't want to smell like that - not for more than 5 minutes anyway. Maybe it's something to do with its gourmand nature - after all there are many foods that smell gorgeous - for example, whose mouth doesn't water at the smell of roast lamb? - but would you really want to spray that behind your ears? Nevertheless, it is a revelation, I want to give it thumbs up, but I'm afraid I can't.
09th March, 2006