Reviews by Bo Darville

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    Bo Darville
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    Showing 1 to 30 of 46.
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    B*Men by Thierry Mugler

    Though amiable and respectable, B*Men fails to excite me. I don't find it particularly memorable - the only reason I ever reach for my bottle is to re-familiarize myself with its aroma. Unlike my favorites, it's a fragrance that is not strong enough in any one area to leave any sort of indelible impression (and, consequently, too average to provide a reason to continue using it). It really is a lot like a song without a resonant hook - kind of like Tommy Tutone's "Jenny" without the "8-6-7-5-3-0-9." In fact, the only thing Thierry Mugler could use as a hook was, "Hey, it's not A*Men." That is, "It's not the best fragrance I have ever made; in fact, it's the opposite - the Anti-A*Men!"

    OK, I'm being a bit harsh. Truth be told, B*Men ain't bad. It's pleasant and smells nice - a posse of torch-carrying townsfolk isn't gonna hunt you down and tar and feather you. Again, though, there is nothing here that creates a lasting memory. Is it the fruit/rhubarb? Is it the woodiness? Is it the amber or vetiver? Are any of these particularly outstanding? Meh. Much like listening to any Bob Dylan song, you dutifully persist through all the monotonous mumbling, waiting for something to click so you can sing along...but it never happens.

    9th December, 2009.

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    VIP by Usher

    This generally smells like some cheap, run-of-the-mill, reconstituted leather product, that is to say a leather product that is predominantly or entirely not leather (e.g., "Pleather" bags, my Gimp suit). I guess I shouldn't be shocked.

    The spice notes were notably difficult to take - I don't know whether the culprit was the nutmeg or the saffron, but this stuff had me sneezing like no other. This is the first fragrance I've tried that almost completely closed the opening in my throat - I literally thought I was going to asphyxiate to death. I had to scrub this one off.

    The icing on the cake is the absurd bottle. It looks like something Jaye Davidson's character in Stargate would use as a hip flask.

    7th December, 2009. (Last Edited: 17th July, 2010.)

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    Stetson by Stetson

    I almost feel guilty for giving this one a Thumbs Down. I've long been under the self-induced impression that Stetson is one of the great buys in all of perfumery. The problem is, prior to my recent purchase, the last time I had worn this was literally way back in elementary school. As I try it now, twenty years and scores of fragrance experiences later, I find that I cannot tolerate its intense soapiness once the citrus top notes flash off - this is serious Dial Gold territory, and for me it's difficult to tolerate. The soapiness does later abate, leaving you with an amber skin scent that is pleasant but ultimately somewhat tiresome.

    In the end, were I in the mood for a good, affordable amber scent, I'd probably just buy Obsession for Men (also available at your local Wal-Mart). Sure, it's more expensive, but are you breaking the bank in upgrading? To put it another way, would you really choose the used Kia over the new one, especially when the new Kia is, like, the greatest Kia ever made and still inexpensive? Really?

    7th December, 2009. (Last Edited: 17th July, 2010.)

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    Scent 79 for Men by Jil Sander

    I really, really liked Scent 79 upon acquiring a decant and testing it, but I quickly grew bored with it and now rarely seek it out. While certainly an improvement, Scent 79 is clearly a signpost along the evolutionary road that began with designer scents like Cool Water - that is, it's a fresh woody/floral fragrance deepened in this case by incense and a hint of leather. I'm sure it's composed of finer ingredients than CW and its ilk (as evidenced by its elevated price), but it's not interesting enough to move me. As others have noted, it's also a very quiet scent, especially once the astringency of the opening dies down. Still, it's pleasant enough - a solid neutral.

    Since the previous reviewers did such a bang-up job of describing the scent's progression, I will end with a silly haiku in lieu of proper exposition:

    After the rains came:
    Kinky monks into leather
    Picking violets.

    3rd December, 2009.

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    Domenico Caraceni 1913 by Domenico Caraceni

    This is a fantastic fragrance, full of carefully restrained exuberance ("rational exuberance"?) and bespoke sophistication. I'm an amateur at this, but to me the fragrance seems fairly linear, the only major evolution being the eventual exhaustion of the neroli top notes after an hour or so. Everything else - namely, the rose (or rose + geranium?), cypress, and pipe tobacco - seems present right from jump street.

    Some have essentially described this fragrance as being gothic chic (e.g., the Dracula comments). While I cannot whole-heartedly disagree with that, I think that this characterization may nevertheless alienate some potential users who would actually quite enjoy 1913. In my view, this fragrance is conservative and mature, yet decadent in a "Behind Closed Doors" sort of way (big ups to Charlie Rich, LOL). I could imagine an eccentric, clean-cut, WASP-ish intellectual (Tom Wolfe, George Will, MYSELF) wearing something like this. If I had to sum up the experience of wearing this in one word, that word would be, "satisfying."

    I've tried a few rose-based higher-end frags including Tauer's Incense Rosé (very nice, but somewhat astringent with shades of CdG Avignon) and C&S No. 88 (likeable but comparatively lifeless, truly Dracula-esque), in addition to one or two designer offerings like Aramis 900 (actually very nice but inferior to 1913), but Domenico Caraceni's creation is my favorite as of right now. I do have misgivings (low sillage and moderate longevity), but I'm so enamored with the aroma that I'm more than willing to ignore them...

    3rd December, 2009. (Last Edited: 19th June, 2010.)

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    Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

    Jazz boasts a traditional yet very deftly executed opening highlighted by a little lavender and a lot of bergamot with a hint of mossy cinnamon underneath - it's spicy, bright, and musty at the same time. As the citrus and lavender diminish, this becomes more of a cinnamon-centric, woody/leathery/mossy scent. Overall, it is a rather unique and distinguished release from a house that deservedly stands out among the designer crowd.

    Having said all that, I probably wouldn't reach for this often mainly due to a personal olfactory association which I happily (or unhappily, since bad associations are generally not good) see I am not alone in suffering. As Big Scooter notes below, this has the potential to remind some people (well, maybe just us - others mention a link with some foreign delicacy called "fish and chips") of old metal railings, or perhaps typical coatings used on said metals - you know, the way your hand smells after you've grasped or slid your hand along one of them while waiting in a line, etc. I suppose it's due to the citrus/cinnamon/moss interplay, but I don't know.

    I wouldn't think less of anyone who gives this a thumbs up. I almost did so myself in spite of my reservations. Maybe I'll have to revisit it later...

    2nd December, 2009.

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    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    I was actually slightly repulsed by Kouros when I first tried it somewhat extemporaneously at Ulta or some similar brick and mortar outlet. It wasn't that I thought it to be fecal or urinous, as several others have indicated. I simply felt that, at least in the initial stages, it was too reminiscent of that institutional deodorizer aroma that I associate with public restrooms and the like - this is surely the genesis of Kouros' popular equation with all things "potty." After consequently dismissing it as interesting but totally unwearable, I was lucky (or charming) enough to coax a few random samples of Creed fragrances from a willing Neiman Marcus associate. Among these samples was Orange Spice which, although different from Kouros, struck me as similar enough to be considered as a possible (and likely) inspiration for it.

    As I came to know and like (but not love) OS, I felt the need to revisit the Big K. Truth be told, despite my serious initial misgivings the Kouros memory had remained stamped on my cerebral cortex, tempting me like a siren's call to give it another try. My positive experience with OS just cemented my determination - I swore to ignore any pre-existing associations, trudge bravely through the chaotic top notes, and at least see how it developed (none of which I had managed to do before). I think it helps to think of the Big K as General Patton. He didn't care what you thought or what your personal story was - he demanded subservience, loyalty, and patience. If you gave him that, he worked magic; if you didn't, he probably publicly embarrassed you and left you for dead in North Africa...or something. Kouros is literally no different. Literally.

    Although the initial complex, aldehydic blast featuring bergamot and coriander is powerful, if one persists he will be treated to one of the greatest second acts that I have had the pleasure of experiencing, an incense-y drydown that is floral, mossy, and spicy, featuring honeyed amber goodness and loads of civet (real or synthetic - who cares?). Sillage and longevity are phenomenal. You may find yourself thinking, "It's nice, but it's too much," but then the compliments start pouring in. On top of that, despite its age and apparent reputation, this is a fragrance that I never smell among the populace, probably because the top notes are too discordant to resonate with the short attention span of the average consumer.

    My bottom line: I don't care if you take my advice and give Kouros a fair shake. Worldwide sales of the juice are so good that I should always be able to find a bottle somewhere. It's relative obscurity and apparent lack of popularity with the masses (at least in the U.S.) means that I will be the greatest-smelling person in the greatest country in the world for the rest of my life. I can live with that.

    1st December, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by Heeley

    I think this may be the quintessential "rich Corinthian leather" scent, or at the very least a perfect example of what that would smell like if it actually existed. As others have noted, the violet/mimosa combo is front and center; the leather is present but expertly muted until the heart, wherein floral dominancy gives way to brisk yet supple leatheriness. Somerville Metro Man adeptly and accurately describes this evolution below. Longevity and projection seem appropriate and acceptable to me, although I do frequently find myself applying a refresher later in the day (love those floral notes).

    Based on my own experience with Heeley's other offerings, I'd be hard pressed to think of another house that is as undeservedly underrated and under-discussed. Those folks who (for some odd reason that I cannot fathom) mourn the passing of Helmut Lang Cuiron should really give this a shot. Not only is Cuir Pleine Fleur easier to find and consequently less expensive (a relative statement - Heeley is not "cheap"), it is also more profound, longer lasting, and (wait for it) more leathery than Lang's overrated, somewhat hollow release. In other words, it's a huge improvement.

    30th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Bulgari Aqua pour Homme Marine by Bulgari

    I can't believe this is actually worse than the original.

    Even though I found it offensive (think wet trash bags), I thought Bulgari Aqua was at the very least creative and envelope-pushing. Aqua Marine just seems like a tired retread of so many other aquatics.

    Be smart and pass on this one.

    30th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Bulgari Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

    Although there are aquatics that I like (CSP Aqua Motu) or even love (Heeley Sel Marin), I can't say that I'm much of a fan of the genre. Most seem to be designed to appeal to the lowest common denominator and ultimately come off as pleasant yet uninspiring, essentially eliminating as customers those wanting more from such scents. I suspect many enterprising perfumers within the aquatic realm take this under consideration when composing their take on the theme; a common approach seems to be the inclusion or amplification of normally unpleasant elements, marine or otherwise.

    The normally unpleasant element that Jacques Cavallier has apparently chosen to exploit is trash, specifically wet, sun-baked, half-degraded polyethylene trash bags. Sure, there's citric and grassy notes present here as well, but in the end this fragrance is all about trash to me. This reaction has proven consistent over the course of multiple wearings.

    Obviously, I cannot recommend this to anyone. As many positive reviewers have noted, this is an original, atypical scent; this alone, however, does not make it "good." While I respect the risk-taking involved in releasing a fragrance that should come with a drawstring and directions to the nearest dumpster, I feel that I can rest easy in the knowledge that there is one fewer fragrance I have to constantly assess and re-assess in order to ascertain my true opinion.

    30th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Marc Jacobs for Men by Marc Jacobs

    I am admittedly not a big fig fan, although I do find Philosykos' interpretation pleasant and charming, if underwhelming. This, on the other hand, I find to be a heavy and cloying mess that quickly unnerves me before completely disappearing two hours later. If I found it even remotely enjoyable relative to pricier fig offerings, I would grade it on a curve, but I don't...and I can't.

    If I really needed a fig scent, I would probably still buy Philosykos even though it sells at a premium - I think the higher quality may be worth the extra expenditure. I think that in order to buy Marc Jacobs you would have to be a hopeless fig addict in dire need of a quick, inexpensive fix.

    23rd November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Laguna Homme by Salvador Dali

    Laguna Homme is an über-synthetic tonka/vanilla bomb accompanied by the same type of sour, sweaty citrus notes found in Dali's revolting Le Roy Soleil Homme. There is also an overarching waxy or plastic element at play here (maybe the synthetic florals) that I find totally irritating. The overall effect is not unlike that of a cheap, unlit vanilla candle.

    Those who say this is a good choice for summer have obviously not worn it in high temperature / high humidity climates, wherein this juice visually radiates like the malodorous vapor from Pepé Le Pew.

    23rd November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

    My experience with Terre d'Hermès has been inconsistent. I thoroughly enjoyed my initial experiment with a small decant I picked up at Sephora. I would describe the fragrance as I experienced it then as a lightly peppered wood and citrus blend that dries down to an earthy vetiver accord before finally petering out with a very noticeable (and delectable) sweet and smoky benzoin aroma that lasted until the next morning.

    My opinion of this juice was so resoundingly positive that I soon bought a 4oz bottle online. My experience with this bottle has been vastly different from that described above. On most wearings, the pepper now seems supercharged and borderline suffocating if even slightly overapplied. I also get very little woodiness; it is essentially an even drier citrus, vetiver, and pepper scent with little development. The sweet benzoin scent on the back end is completely missing, as well.

    I should note that this was the scent that started me upon my now year-long fragrance obsession, so my nose and tastes may have changed a little with frequent sampling. It is also possible that the bottle I purchased online is old, defective, or even (gasp) fake. Although it doesn't live up to my expectations, it is still clinically interesting and enjoyable enough when worn in extreme moderation to warrant a lukewarm "positive" rating - it is after all one of my most complimented scents. I'll just have to pick up another sample to test against the bottle that I currently own...

    22nd November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Aramis 900 by Aramis

    Based on my experience, this must have been the fragrance of choice for Southern Baptist deacons, pastors, and the churches themselves in the 1980's. I would even go so far as to say that this fragrance (or maybe this "style" of fragrance) is the Protestant counterpart to the incense-y Catholic vibe of Avignon or Cardinal. While I had smelled it very often during my adolescence, I never knew what it was until I recently tried Aramis 900 for the first time. While it is a restrained and mature fragrance, I must say I am nevertheless greatly impressed by it.

    I consider Aramis 900 to be a predominantly floral scent (rose, or perhaps the illusion thereof) heavily supported by moss and patchouli. There is a very slight woodiness running through the composition, as well. Whatever citric elements exist are exhausted within the opening couple of minutes and are inconsequential. I would neither describe this as herbal (where are the herbs here?) nor as medicinal (far too smooth for that), unlike other commentators.

    Since I am a huge fan of masculine florals, I am understandably wowed by this. One or two people have remarked that this is a perfect fragrance for cool, rainy (read: gloomy) weather thanks to its inherent mossiness, and I totally agree - it is fast becoming my go-to frag for that situation. Sillage is subtle, but if you like this genre of fragrance, my guess is that this shortcoming is unimportant. I feel that longevity, on the other hand, is superb.

    Kudos to Aramis for this fragrance - I think it may be their best.

    22nd November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

    Allure Homme Sport opens like a (slightly) refined version of the loathsome Acqua di Gio and dries down to a tonka/amber/musk accord that, while pleasing, is reminiscent of the far (and I mean FAR) superior Geir. I'll stick with the latter.

    20th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 16th January, 2010.)

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    Givenchy Play Intense by Givenchy

    Although I wasn't too impressed with Givenchy Play, I'd have to say it's definitely better than this flanker. Like the original, Intense has an unnecessarily heavy citric opening. I wouldn't consider it airy or diffusive as some have indicated - it basically coats my throat and sinuses. The pepper exacerbates this effect and adds to the discomfort.

    Within an hour, the note that some have identified as tar or coffee emerges and melds with the now diminished citrus. Personally, this stage is more reminiscent of slightly syrupy cardboard and foregoes any positive association that I have with the gourmand. It's rather like the aroma of grade school book bindings that you suspect have had gallons of Mountain Dew accidentally spilled on them over the years.

    I also find this too be LESS intense than the original, which I feel has greater longevity and sillage. I suspect the name is a byproduct of marketing (i.e., suggesting a frag is more concentrated or wilder than the original is more fruitful than saying it is simply a variation on a theme) and not truth in advertising. I simply don't feel there's anything enjoyable or relevant about this fragrance.

    18th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Givenchy Play by Givenchy

    Although this has more redeeming qualities than the somewhat disconcerting Intense flanker, I have to ultimately give it a thumbs down. This is essentially a linear fragrance dominated by a heavy citrus/vetiver/patchouli combo that coats my throat and sinuses. Despite my physical discomfort when wearing this, I feel that I probably smell quite good (in a nondescript way) to others. I suppose this just isn't my style.

    18th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Aramis by Aramis

    In the Seinfeld episode entitled "The Switch," Jerry bemoans his inability to embrace the "Orgy Guy" lifestyle. He opines:

    "Don't you know what it means to become an orgy guy? It changes everything. I'd have to dress different. I'd have to act different. I'd have to grow a mustache and get all kinds of robes and lotions, and I'd need a new bedspread and new curtains. I'd have to get thick carpeting and weirdo lighting. I'd have to get new friends. I'd have to get orgy friends...No, I'm not ready for it."

    One could easily ad to this list of stereotypes, "I'd have to start wearing Aramis." I mean, I love anachronistic, dated macho frags as much as the next guy, but this is a little too "Weekend in the Hills with Roman and Jack," even for me. Or perhaps too "Three's Company with Special Guest Star Tom Selleck." Maybe even too "Burt Reynolds in Cosmo." I could go on and on.

    I always arrive at the conclusion that Aramis essentially smells like heating oil or something similarly petroleum-like. Interestingly enough, I do recall reading that U.S.-based airlines were secretly hedging jet fuel costs by stockpiling tankers of Aramis...but you didn't hear that from me.

    17th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Vetiver by Guerlain

    Guerlain Vetiver is one of the few fragrances I know that is not only versatile enough to achieve all-weather, 365-day workhorse status but also enjoyable enough to consistently engage me both intellectually and emotionally. When nothing else fits, this is inevitably what I will reach for, and I honestly never tire of it. On the whole, I find it uplifting and confident, an unpretentious powerhouse scent more attributable to kingmakers than to the kings they crown.

    GV opens with a fairly unique citrus accord that is succulent yet spicy (coriander). As the scent evolves, the "wet earth" aroma of vetiver, cedar, and tobacco dominates and is heavily accented by pepper. While this final stage is literally "dirt-y," I would certainly not describe it as fecal (unlike one or two commentators before me - yikes, bad samples?). Unlike others, I would also not characterize GV as "soapy," not that "soapy" is a bad thing. Maybe I am one of the lucky ones blessed with skin that loves this juice...

    15th November, 2009. (Last Edited: 2nd February, 2010.)

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    Quasar by J del Pozo

    Count me in with the negative camp. As noted by others, this smells like a seashore strewn with decomposing bananas and newspapers. Thankfully, it is so discrete and short-lived that no one really notices.

    Oh, well. To each his own.

    3rd November, 2009.

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    Love and Luck for Men by Ed Hardy [Christian Audigier]

    Well, it's a light and fresh fragrance like SMW, but that's where the comparison ends. Actually, I think it bears much more resemblance to GIT than SMW.

    To me, SMW is all about black currant, tea, and ink. Even though I grow quickly tired of it during most wearings, there's something funky, unsettling, and "off" about it that makes me keep trying it. On the other hand, Love and Luck is a fairly straightforward citrus verbena-type scent with violet. It really is the epitome of the "aquatic Cool Water style scent" that so many people claim to hate these days.

    Were I in the mood for something like this, I'd probably reach for GIT. This is just a little too generic and safe to get excited about one way or the other.

    1st November, 2009.

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    Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules

    This is certainly better than Escentric 02, but I would nevertheless not waste my money on buying a bottle. It's fairly simple (pepper, SOUR lime, and cedar) and linear on my skin, with levels of longevity and sillage that I cannot quite qualify. It unfortunately happens to be one of the few fragrances that seems to consistently afflict me with anosmia.

    I had originally tested this with summer usage in mind, but Escentric 01 tends to go slightly awry on my skin when mixed with the slightest amount of sweat. Wearing this in the fall is more enjoyable, if slightly anachronistic.

    In summary, this is not a bad fragrance, but it does lack the sophistication and complexity needed to justify its roughly $135/3.5 oz price tag. Were I in the mood for a better fragrance that seeks to pique similar emotions, I'd probably reach for Gigli Man (on the inexpensive side) or PG Hyperessence Matale (on the pricey side), not that any of those are compositionally or aromatically similar.

    31st October, 2009.

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    Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

    Unfortunately, I have yet to find anything by Gucci that I can truly love. Nobile is as close as I've come, but I think my feelings for that fragrance are more akin to fond yet clinically detached respect rather than actual emotional engagement.

    In the case of Gucci PH, while I can appreciate the "idea" behind the fragrance (traditional powerhouse masculinity), I can't really appreciate the execution. Upon application, I am greeted with a fat cumin-like note that really doesn't compute when considering the listed notes. I have to admit this opening was completely surprising and certainly very Declaration-esque, although Declaration's cumin note is dirtier and perhaps by consequence more interesting, edgy, and enjoyable.

    After thirty minutes or so, the "cumin" has completely exhausted, leaving behind a fairly unassuming accord dominated by cedar (of the pencil shavings variety) but also containing a trace of incense. Longevity is above average, but I find sillage to be quite discrete. ("Your mileage may vary.")

    All told, Gucci's development and presence underwhelm; this is not the unique masculine powerhouse that I expected. It's certainly not groundbreaking, but I'll admit it's not terrible either. Neutral.

    30th October, 2009.

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    Escentric 02 by Escentric Molecules

    This fragrance is so prosaic and soulless that I am not moved to conjure the necessary exposition to describe it. It's only apparent functions are to showcase the use of ambroxan as an ambergris substitute and, by doing so, to extend an olive branch to the eco-terrorists at Greenpeace by symbolically atoning for all the "harm" done to whales by harvesting their precious, naturally expelled, sun-and-sea-seasoned vomit. (inhales)

    Minimal sillage. Minimal longevity. Minimal impact.



    29th October, 2009.

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    Tobacco Mucho by Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan

    ORIGINAL REVIEW:

    I was very much looking forward to experiencing Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan's take on tobacco after having been so impressed with her Embruns d'Ambre. Like the latter, Tobacco Mucho 1) is a light and linear affair and 2) apparently contains no tobacco.

    Honestly, this fragrance irritated me not because it is poorly made (it isn't, I suppose, but what do I know?) or because it stinks (it certainly doesn't) or because it's overpriced (though it is), but instead because it's at best uninspired and at worst dishonest. Doesn't the name imply that there's "a lot" of tobacco in this? I mean, it's named "Tobacco Mucho," not "Tobacco Poco" or "Tobacco Nada."

    Did I mention that I cannot detect any tobacco in this?

    Anyway, as I allowed the fragrance to process on my skin, I realized that I had experienced a very similar accord in another much more hyped fragrance: Escentric 01. Seriously, replace the lime note in Escentric 01 with lemon and voilà, you have Tobacco Mucho. This should be renamed Limón y Cedro Mucho or, better yet, simply Limón y Cedro, because there's not a lot of anything in this.

    EDIT:

    Well, I must not have been paying close enough attention the first time I wore this. There is tobacco in this...it's just the kind of tobacco note I'm not used to: a very clean and light American Spirit in a pouch kind of tobacco (almost tea-like). The tobacco still doesn't last beyond thirty minutes, though, and what you're left with are wood notes with lemon. Even though I regret originally being so bullheadedly dismissive, I don't really care for this. Tobacco Poco, it is.

    29th October, 2009. (Last Edited: 31st October, 2009.)

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    Gendarme by Gendarme

    I recently used a restroom at Nordstrom that had quite obviously been deodorized with Gendarme...and that's the end of my anecdote. No further exposition is required.

    Gendarme is successful only in that it manages to duplicate the fragrance of The Cheapest Hand Soap Known to Man. No, I'm not talking about Dial hand soap or even generic hand soap from such purveyors as Rite Aid, CVS, et al - I'm talking about hand soap you buy at places with the word "Dollar" in the title.

    If you want a fragrance that is similarly soapy yet refined, I would recommend you try Domenico Caraceni's Ivy League.

    22nd July, 2009.

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    Sandflowers by Montale

    Although I am guilty of it myself, I normally scoff when a reviewer (or multiple reviewers) claims that a certain fragrance smells "exactly like" something else (e.g., GIT and CW). Take my word for it, though - this is virtually indistinguishable from CSP's Aqua Motu. Even though I like Aqua Motu, I would never agree to pay a 400% markup to experience the same scent rebottled by a more "prestigious" house. What's more, I am under the impression that Aqua Motu preceded Sandflowers, thus making Sandflowers not only laughably expensive but also (*gasp*) unoriginal.

    Thumbs down.

    7th July, 2009. (Last Edited: 1st November, 2009.)

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    Idole de Lubin by Lubin

    I'll admit that I wasn't especially overwhelmed by this juice when I tried it last winter. Although I certainly found this boozy, syrupy, (very) slightly citrus concoction compelling and likeable, it seemed to lack the OOMPH! factor that would compel me to purchase a bottle.

    My opinion of Idole changed when I wore it on the first day of summer (here in South Carolina - about 95 deg. F / 70% humidity). I had originally balked at the notion of wearing this brew under such conditions (for reasons I can’t quite pinpoint), but I have to say that it resulted in an almost perfect fragrance experience.

    Although I wasn’t exactly doing manual labor while wearing it, Idole seemed to meld very well with and be accentuated by what perspiration did occur when I was outdoors. The fragrance never “turned” like many that are actually marketed as summer frags. The heat made what originally struck me as a too subtle fragrance into one that had presence without being obnoxious (obviously, don’t go dousing yourself with it, though). I’m sure this is a little tricky considering Idole's inherent warmth.

    Seriously, if you’re not going to wear a fragrance touting rum absolute, sugar cane, and doum palm as key components during the summertime, when are you going to wear it?

    25th June, 2009.

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    Artisan by John Varvatos

    Artisan is a far less challenging version of L'Eau D'Issey, which I loathe with an intensity usually reserved for Satan, rush-hour traffic, fat-free [insert foodstuff here], and Democrats. Please accept my apology if you like or happen to be any of these people or things.

    I'm not going to describe the aroma - that is very ably done in the reviews preceding mine. What I will say is that this would make a fabulous air freshener. Wearing it is like walking through the dew-like mist which lingers for 5 seconds or so after room fumigation with any citrus/floral Glade product.

    Unfortunately, this simply isn't my cup o' tea. However, I do think that for a person who likes this type of scent, it would be fully optimized in the dog days of summer. So, give it a shot if only for that reason - just don't expect to be bowled over.

    8th June, 2009.

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    Bahiana by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Everyone else pretty much nails the description of this scent (even the "syrupy," "fruit salad," "weird buttered popcorn" note, which turned out to be my favorite aspect!), so I won't bother. What I will say is that, although this certainly smells nice, I'm just not blown away by it; it doesn't come close to emotionally engaging me. I suppose my main misgiving is that it's simply too subtle and wispy. Of course, wearing this in 90% humidity on a summer day will help. Even so, I won't be getting too worked up over a frag that is so narrow in its applicability.

    FWIW, while I tend not to care about masculine/feminine scent labels, I am admittedly sensitive to unabashed femininity in frags. No problems here - Bahiana is definitely 1000% unisex.

    27th April, 2009. (Last Edited: 28th January, 2010.)

    Showing 1 to 30 of 46.

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