I previously dismissed this as a lighter No.19 with less galbanum and I didn't give it a chance. However I recently spritzed the heck out of it in a Chanel boutique and I got something very, very different from what I perceived. I walked over to my friend with my huge cloud of Bel Respiro hovering above me, and he said, who's wearing Dune? It immediately dawned upon me, this really does smell like Dune but a greener, less oriental version. I have to try it again as it really did capture my heart.
This has completely inspired me to write a review and judging by my number of reviews, that's saying a lot. This has risen to the top of my list of favorites of L'artisan (which is probably my favorite house currently). The magic in FdL lies in its ethereal nature. It is very quite with minimal sillage but above average longevity. I also find that it blooms with sweat and causes a carnal aura that is both addictive and seductive. It starts out pale and watery with wonderfully ripe fruity notes of guava, melon and what smells like avocado. However at the same time, I find to be very floral with white floral notes of magnolia and tuberose. But don't tuberose fool you here; it is extremely subdued and only has a line in the entire play. As the topnotes burn off, the florals are intensified along with soft green notes of what I can only describe as, a humid forest that is both damp but cool with its later spring air. The drydown reveals a somewhat mineral facet to the scent, but also reveals the murky, mossy (somewhat) forest floor. During the entire duration of Fleur de Liane, there is a watery, dewy composition that connects the fruity, floral and mossy aspects together. FdL does not have a rough edge at all; it is extremely smooth and well blended. I find Ophelia by Heeley to be in the same vein, but with more indolic white floral notes. Judging by my wardrobe, you will see I am not a fan of aquatic florals. Well this one has stolen my heart...
Musc Koublai Khan with more cumin, vegetal musk and rose, less castoreum and civet, and a generous dashing of fizzy saffron.
An herbal amber that doesn't come off as sweet as some of the other reviewers say it is. I get a slightly animalic feel probably due to the labdanum.
Jasmine loaded with indoles and an animalic base similiar to Joy parfum. I find it to be quite sharp and assertive. Sillage and longevity are insane. I prefer Lutens other jasmine, Sarassins, to A la Nuit's jasmine orgy.
Smells like suntan lotion...blech!!!!
A nice blend of agarwood, sandalwood (primarilly), and tiny bit of rose thrown in. The sandalwood isn't as "furniture-y" as Tam Dao, but smoother. Turin says that it used to be a huge agarwood affair and now has changed drastically. Mine is the reformulated version, and it's still damn good, albeit I've never smelled the older one.