Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Zgb

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Sun Men by Jil Sander

I agree with some comments here, being fresh yet warm and somehow balsamic like sun tan lotions. I can easily picture summer on the beach but also a city or a town on Croatian coast during hot days, evenings too. Has this floral touch to it that pushes it towards feminine side. I think it can easily pass as an unisex fragrance, albeit a certain masculine note can't be denied.

Originality 6/10
Scent 7/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 7/10
____________________
28/40 = 70%
06th August, 2015

Fan di Fendi pour Homme by Fendi

I can't believe I forgot to write a review about that one. I did write one though, on the Croatian counterpart of Fragrantica, 13.06.2013. so I'll basically rewrite it here in English, however not in a complete detail.

So, Fendi huh? A bit retro in the initial wave, very spicy and in style quite close between Burberry London (minus boozy, port wine feel) and Moschino Forever. More emphasys on Moschino Forever.

Spices and leather notes are rather neatly combined and that makes Fendi smell quite refined. Can't say exactly when to wear it. It has some depth and weight so it can be worn during colder days, yet again it so uninvasive and sort of light at the same time so it's very wearable during warm periods. Warm and thick, however also gentle and mild, but not weak. Very urban, both formal and casual.

Too bad it's discontinued so soon along with flankers.

Originality 5/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 7/10
28th July, 2015

Paco by Paco Rabanne

Rather good. Unisex? There are more feminine fragrances out there, marketed as frags for guys. Paco is not bad at all. I can sense some quality here, however also it's quite contemporary, that is congruent with time when it was made. By that I'm not insinuating it's old fashioned. There's character here, it's not bland. Fresh but also not light, there's heaviness here. Green, sweet but in a subtle manner, with emphasized citrus notes. Smooth, not sharp.
Not unique but definitely it is distinctive.

Originality 5/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 9/10
Projection 8/10
___________________
30/40 = 75%
26th July, 2015
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Acqua di Giò Profumo by Giorgio Armani

Being realistic, it has quality and zero originality. Put between the original version and Essenza version from 2012. which is a nice upgrade of the original, Profumo is quite redundant I'm afraid.

Not to be to harsh in judgment, Profumo is rather deep and intense, yet rather decent/dignified and "serious". I strongly believe that it can gain more love and attention after a while which is quite a bonus. I'm saying this because at first I was very reserved about it, now I can see this certain distinctivness in it, albeit mostly retaining the character and style of the original.

So in the end is it really redundant? Only if you already own the original or Essenza or both. If you owned those before, but no more, Profumo is your next best pal.

Originality 4/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 7/10
__________________

27/40=67,5%
10th July, 2015

L'Homme Idéal Cologne by Guerlain

Not quite inovative, but not all that bad altogether. It has this weird vibe, like an idea of Dior Homme Sport or Dior Homme Cologne and Chanel Allure Edition Blanche, however yet, Guerlain Ideal Cologne is neither of the mentioned. The fact that it is not original remains, though.

Quality is here, and Ideal Cologne is quite mainstream but that didn't go the wrong way, the way it happened to other houses, for instance Gucci with its Guilty line and some other.

Overall, Guerlain Ideal Cologne is a good fragrance. Not excellent, not original, not exquisite or special, but simply good or "mainstream done well" if you like it.

Originality 4/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection 7/10
Scent 7/10
10th July, 2015

Kouros Silver by Yves Saint Laurent

Bad. Very bad. Saying it's an utter rubbish wouldn't be too harsh.

This an YSL fragrance? Worse yet, a counterpart to original Kouros and Body Kouros? I can't even begin to accept this.

Very disappointing. Reminds me a bit of YSL L'Homme EDP, but a bit more dirty. L'Homme EDP was also disappointing but nowhere near as Kouros Silver is. Such a shame for YSL.

Originality 0/10
Scent 1/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 8/10
10th June, 2015

Déclaration by Cartier

Well, well, well what do we have here? Terre d'Hermes before Terre d'Hermes and a damn good one, just as much as Terre. Declaration is maybe even more thick than Terre d'Hermes, dare I say. Exquisite for sunny days, be they warm or cold. For the office, formal meetings and occasions, I'd think twice about wearing it for a date, well at least first 3 dates.

Overall - excellent!

Originality 8/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 9/10
Projection 8/10
10th June, 2015

Ultra Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

Objectively: pumped up one in instance, in its core in a way. Strictly looking, or sniffing, with a cold, reasonable head - a worthy successor.

Subjectively: way too sweet, sweeter than the original, toned to a bit darker colour not just of the bottle, but scent also in a way. Overall quite redundant when put side by side with the original.

Good idea and good performance however wrong time. There is still the original and the original still smells damn good. There are also a lot of, for better or worse, copies of the original under different brands and names - by this I don't mean fakes but simply other fragrances.

If you have the original, at least try Ultra Male, I doubt it'll impress you to a level that you'd buy a full bottle. If you had the original Le Male and still would like to again, try Ultra Male for it is Le Male with a twist.

There is one very good light spot that forces me to rate this fragrance positively - the dry down. Dry down is that awesome to me, at least on my skin, that I'd actually buy it and wear it just because of it.

Originality 0/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 9/10
Projection 9/10
04th June, 2015

A*Men Ultra Zest by Thierry Mugler

I'm rating it positive for a very thin margin. I figured, what the heck, I rated A*Men Pure Leather positive on the similar terms, why not Ultra Zest then.

Ultra indeed, but Zest? Too strong, too potent and too much not fresh for the summer. It is way similar to Pure Malt. Is Ultra Zest the same as Pure Malt? NO! BUT, very similar in style yes.

Orange box, orange bottle - representing all the summer glory and does it actually succeed? Subjectively - NO, maybe yes for others. Objectively - NO.

Is there all the orange and tangerine here? Well actually there is. How then it reminds of Pure Malt? It simply does.
This scent will give its most, ironically, in winter and not in summer. Especially not in hot summer days. In the end, the only fresh scent from the Pure line is Pure Shot/Energy whatever you might think of it.

I was expecting this fragrance to be dense, sweet and maybe even overbearing and it happened. What I wished Ultra Zest to be? Fresh in a certain unique fashion, but not in a Pure Shot/Energy way. So I got what I expected and not what I was hoping for.

Do not be fooled by the colour of the box and the bottle. It isn't fresh, it's marketed as such. It is a strong oriental that'll give a lot in winter and maybe during summer nights when applied sparingly. If you're not the fan of the line or a collector, you might find Ultra Zest an interesting blend and like it. If you like the line, its idea and are a collector, you might be a bit disappointed by Ultra Zest, like me.

Overall conclusion is - it is not a bad fragrance and it'll most definitely get you compliments. It is very potent, with great longevity and projection.

So, reading my review someone might say I should've rated it neutral at best, and I mean at best. Well, I'm rating it positive regardless. I think the more time will pass, the more crowd will give it some more or less merit and myself will get to appreciate it more in time, also be glad that as a collector of the line it stands with the rest of A*Men flankers.

Originality: 4/10
Fragrance: 8/10
Longevity: 9/10
Projection: 8/10
03rd June, 2015

Cool Water Deep by Davidoff

09.06.2010. tried it casually and wrote a short review on Croatian counterpart of Fragrantica. Although I no longer remember it clearly, I do remember some things. First of all I remember a certain sharpness, however not rough on the edges. It didn't really remind me of the original Cool Water, but it was in that style range, also character. Not a bad scent, in fact from personal experience such scents work really well with the environment, especially when it comes to the female gender. CW Deep is not a great creation, nothing revolutionary, it is deep in the sea of not just flankers but other similar fragrances from other houses, but by the name of reason or some higher entity - CW Deep does work, gets the job done whatever you might think or feel about it. (worn/tried 1st. time 09. june 2010.)
02nd May, 2015

Coromandel by Chanel

I tried this 09.12.2013. accidentally. I met with a friend who was "moving" a girl, oops - a woman to be precise, a complicated story so I won't go into details, and he met her that day, he got hooked for the scent so she gave him 2/3 spent bottle. Anyway, I met him and I noticed he's fiddling with something in his pocket, he took it out and I just had to spray it on in the middle of the street.

Coromandel may be marketed as a fragrance for women, but it could have been for men, or unisex at best and it still wouldn't matter as this fragrance is such a lovely creation, not very versatile though, that anyone who has the taste for style and knows how to wear it, be it a he or she, will pull it off successfully.

Now how does it smell? Think Thierry Mugler Angel and A*Men. The idea, the DNA string of it is definitely there. Chocolate, woods, spices well mixed together, refined. Coromandel is smouldering, embracing, but also firm and strong in character. Earthy, spicy, eatable, neither dark or light. A wonderful creation not for everyday wear unless you have an occasion every day. Coromandel is truly a magnificent perfume force to be reckoned with.

(worn/tried 1st. time 09. dec. 2013.)
02nd May, 2015

Boss Bottled Intense by Hugo Boss

So, the reason I'm rating this thumb up is that it's a good juice. Why I'd rate neutral or maybe even thumb down? It's the same juice like the EDT, only a little deeper colour of juice in the bottle.

But before we go all bash-bash on it, Boss Bottled Intense IS a bit more dense and refined than the EDT, at least to a bit more experienced nose. Albeit myself being somewhat experienced after years of sniffing and collecting, the difference is not that big between the EDT and Intense version that I would buy the Intense version.

Intense version is quite more soft and more woody than the original version, however not louder or more potent. In fact I dare say that the old 1998. EDT projects more although it doesn't outlast the Intense version.

All in all, great but same juice with just a little twist. I think that there'll be people who'll find something quite more in this than me. As for myself, already owning the original EDT version, I see no need to complement it with the Intense version, but would buy this one after finishing the bottle of the 1st version.

Originality 0/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 9/10
Projection 7/10
12th April, 2015 (last edited: 16th April, 2015)

Azzaro Club Men by Azzaro

Ha! Classic to a degree that it couldn't be more! Think Denim Black, Azzaro Silver Black, Emporio Armani Lui. There is a bit of tea-ish hint derived from Bvlgari PH Soir. It is a bit synthetic but what isn't these days anyway.

Nothing original, nothing ingenious but I have to give it some credit though. Barely worn, even less talked about, or even mentioned. It's quite a bit of a retro type of scent, very versatile, relatively potent but not invasive. If people would give it a chance, it'd be noticed quite a bit, however still wouldn't be talked off - well at least not a lot. I just can't bash it. I'll give a thumb up regardless it'll probably never end up as part of my collection - but then again one never knows.
31st March, 2015
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Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme Intenso by Dolce & Gabbana

Elements of the original are present, but Intenso is sweetened and less sharp. Bitterness of the original echoes out, however subdued by a light sheet of artificial sweeteners. Soapy like the original too, but no so loud or powerful.

Intenso is a bit more contemporary approach to the original and does not lose the old principle of manliness, but tries to tone it down and make it more contemporary.

Further on, albeit more contemporary, it is still not a scent for a younger crowd even though the fragrance contains elements of new lines of old houses, for instance Gucci Guilty line and so on.

Creator wanted to make Intenso a bit more dark than the original and in a strange way that is truly achieved. Regardless of that, except for the cool bottle and name which makes it a success from the instance of marketing, Intenso is from the instance of how it actually radiates as a scent, when compared to the original, completely lacking in character and an overall idea.

In essence, what is in fact Intesno Pour Homme? Less sharp, sweetened and toned down original.

I can't exactly, even though it seems I bashed it, give it thumb down rating due to the fact I find it to be sort of very pleasant despite all obvious flaws. I'll rate it neutral.

Originality 3/10
Scent 6/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection 6/10
18th March, 2015 (last edited: 27th March, 2015)

Moschino Forever Sailing by Moschino

A great surprise to me. Indeed it's your regular freshie in the sea of many alike, in this case tad bit similar to Bvlgari Aqua Marine, yet character of its own. Mint note here is almost invasive, very strong, but to me it's also incredibly pleasant and refined - I bet most people won't agree with me with the word refined, though. So mint it is, what else? Patchouli gives it some structure but is a bit lost in that screaming mint note. If you like fresh, and I mean really fresh, this is for you. I know it is for me. (tried/worn 07.09.2013.)
28th January, 2015

Moschino Forever by Moschino

Not bad at all. In first instance there's an impression we're dealing with more contemporary version of Moschino "Uomo?", and there's a hint of an echo of Burberry London.

After 20 min. or so, Forever starts to move away from "Uomo?" and get a bit more distinct character. Distant echo of Burberry London still pertains. Albeit lacking in originality it is a good fragrance. I'd say it's a good office, daily wear scent. Can be casual or formal, not a sporty scent, though. Return of invest - it's excellent due to the fact it's cheap, so you get more quality than you payed for. (worn/tried 20.01.2012.)

Originality 5/10
Fragrance 7/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 7/10
28th January, 2015

Fan di Fendi pour Homme Assoluto by Fendi

I completely agree with "Gucci Pour Homme I" reborn statement. It absolutely is, but then again not that quite so. Style is definitely shared, character not. Fan di Fendi lacks some things that GPH I makes such a gem that it is, well was unfortunately. That doesn't make Fan di Fendi PH Assoluto less worthy or less good, but rather just a bit different. However, can one take Fan di Fendi pour Homme Assoluto as a reminder of GPH I? Absolutely!
Hardly it'll be on my wishlist as I already have GPH I and Dirty English - a sharper, however more airy and boozy counterpart, but had I not owned any of the former mentioned, I wouldn't have any doubts or second thoughts regarding Fan di Fendi pour Homme Assoluto - I'd own it from the moment I've tried it.
05th January, 2015

SexMagic by House of Matriarch

So, what is Sexmagic? Subjective - motor oil, smell of tyres, an open car engine etc. That can be sexy I guess if it's your thing. Not my thing though, however I must say that this is an ingenious work, if not a masterpiece.

Niche, of course, great quality, refined, abundant, peculiar and with a strong character, too strong at that. Not for the softer kind of people, or at least not for those who are not so hardcore. Who could wear this I wonder? You know those bikers who wear helmets that look like German Wehrmacht military ones from the WWII? That profile of people.

So, is it bad? No, not bad, very unusual and to me it's headache inducing. I'd wear it to offend and to spite people. Hardly one could seduce a woman wearing this, or seduce anyone for that matter.

I'll rate it neutral due to the fact it is very, very peculiar and unique, different and "off", otherwise I'd rate it thumbs down.
30th December, 2014

Wild by Dsquared2

Doesn't deliver what it claims.

Bottle and the name are cool though, neat trick at it. Not a complete failure, or better said, wouldn't have been had it not have the wrong marketing. I mean, seriously - Wild? Where's "Wild"? In the initial wave it's quite undefined, but as it settles it quickly starts to remind me of Bvlgari Extreme, however much weaker and toned down. Dsquared Wild reminds a bit also of Armani Mania which was ruined by reformulation, thus potentially stronger.

Subjectively - nice try, but the bottle and the name give the false impression

Objectively - nothing to see/smell here, move along

Scent - 7/10
Originality 0/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection 6/10

Summary 20/40

22nd December, 2014

Jimmy Choo Man by Jimmy Choo

Smelled it all before. Nothing original. In the spirit of Gucci Guilty line, Just Cavalli Him line, new Trussardi Uomo and Mont Blanc Legend. Cold, fresh and sweetened water, characterless and bland, however inoffensive.

Originality 0/10
Smell 4,5/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 7/10
22nd December, 2014

Dior Homme Parfum by Christian Dior

A good quality work, but quite unoriginal and redundant when compared with the original and intense version. Sweetness of the former version is subsided in the EDP, accent being more expressed with the leather and iris, not any more or less refined than in the former versions. Albeit an EDP, you won't get a monster projection from it, or more longevity.

Understandable that people will it like EDP, but subjectively I'd say more from love towards the house and the line, than the fragrance itself. If compared to what YSL did with its L'Homme EDP, Dior Homme EDP turns out to be an astonishing work, but only from that particular instance in my opinion. Turns out that Dior Homme EDP is a marketing trick, however that of a good quality product which makes it all a bit less tragic.

Yeah, I bashed it a bit and don't really have the heart to make a negative review so I'll rate it neutral on the matter of a principal. Basically they made the same fragrance, changed the bottle a bit and also called it "EDP". I mean come on, really? I sure do like it, but already owning the original EDT from which I get all the performance I need, like and appreciate, I sure AM NOT falling for this trick.

Originality 0/10
Scent 8/10
Longevity 8/10
Projection 7/10
03rd December, 2014

A*Men Pure Coffee by Thierry Mugler

Many will say that it's too similar to the original A*Men. I say the DNA of the original is here, but far from it that they're the same. Pure Coffee completely has a character of its own.

I was expecting far thicker scent and it turned out it's more airy. I feel that coffee note here, it's quite profound to me and also there's an echo of dark chocolate in this fragrance. Patchouli is forever present and vetiver sort of subtly freshens the coffee note and makes it more pronounced in a strange fashion.

Pure Coffee is not a projection monster like the original and some of the other flankers. That doesn't mean that Pure Coffee is weak. Although you won't fill the room with it, people standing next you will most definitely feel it.

In my opinion, Pure Coffee is more elegant. It doesn't project that wildly, but also it is elegant by the way it smells. It's more refined original without the tar and excessive sweetness.

So, Pure Coffee is in fact not all that original, I'll agree to that, but it's definitely worth to have it in a collection if you like the original or the entire line. To me personally, it's the most elegant of all the flankers released thus far.
19th November, 2014

A*Men Pure Wood by Thierry Mugler

It'd be difficult to argue if it could have been better. I can't say if that's really oak I'm smelling, however most definitely I do smell a strong wood accord. Burning wood, to be precise.

I dare say this is a bit different take on Pure Leather, that is, A*Men without the tar note and strong burning wood note. Pure Wood is definitely nothing revolutionary, but quite appealing. It follows that typical form and norm of an A*Men flanker. All in all in sense of smell it definitely delivers. It doesn't follow the path that some flankers followed after Pure Malt and that'd be Pure Havane and The Taste Of A Fragrance. Pure Wood doesn't contain cherry, fruity vibe. Unlike the former mentioned, Pure Wood is definitely creamy, burning wood, caramel like.

Fragrance itself, if you like the line and the whole idea of it, is exquisite. If you never got hooked on this line of frags then it'll be just another flanker to you. Pure Wood lasts quite long, however it's projection is rather limited. Regardless of it's obvious flaws, it is a fragrance incredibly suitable for cold days in winter. I don't know why, but I myself do not see it at all as a night time fragrance.

So, what is with Pure Wood as a flanker in general in terms of its destiny? Well, you can most easily see that in terms of flankers - Pure Malt and Pure Havane stole the game. Period. Flankers that ensued later on, even though they're not bad - The Taste Of A Fragrance, Pure Leather, Pure Shot/Energy and now Pure Wood - just don't stand a chance in general public. Pure Malt and Pure Havane will always be among the top worn, top spoken of, mentioned, recommended or reviewed.

Summary: if you collect them, you'll most likely love Pure Wood. If you're casual about this line of frags, it'll be just ok to you. I myself am a bit biased and really do appreciate Pure Wood. It is sort of a different take on Pure Leather that never got the hype, maybe deservingly so, but also I somehow see this coming to Pure Wood as well but undeservingly. I myself was not and am not too crazy about Pure Leather, still I like the fact I own it.

Although Pure Wood is not the finest example of craftsmanship or a masterpiece, it is a very fine fragrance, quite refined even due to the fact it does have this dose of syntheticity in it. I'm getting the impression people want it to fail, thus they see it as a failure. I strongly say and claim it is not. It is quite a worthy fragrance to have, especially if one collects this line of fragrances.

Originality - 4/10
Scent - 8/10
Longevity - 8/10
Sillage - 6/10
13th November, 2014

Héritage by Guerlain

Rich, refined, velvet like fragrance!

Heritage must have been a muse for V&R Antidote which is a bit more spicy and harsher.
Heritage is a very complex fragrance with notes being so well blended together that one can't exclude any particular note in it. Citruses, wood, flowers, musk - it's all there and yet you can't say are they. It's that good. Fragrance for the aristocracy I dare say as it is so formal, dignifying and regal smelling.

Heritage isn't easily obtainable these days it'd seem, but weirdly enough, liking it as I do, I'm not surprised that it's production might be limited or even discontinued. If I'd own it, I can't imagine for what occasion I'd wear it and how would people perceive this fragrance on me. I just don't see it on me, a part of me, my style etc., however to call it an ingenious classic for formal wear, I'll grant it that much and put it on top 10 of that type of a fragrance any time.

(worn first time 02.06.2014.)
03rd October, 2014

Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

It's been quite a while since I've tried it and worn for couple of times. Completely forgot to write a review, shame on me indeed. What a lovely fragrance, hard to obtain for reasons unknown to me, and a double shame for that.

In spirit of Azzaro Pour Homme and maybe even Cerruti 1881. In spirit and style, yes, but with it's own character. Very refined fragrance, well balanced and more in tune with the time, 21. century. However longevity and projection seem to be a bit of an issue here. In fact, Rive Gauche can make love Azzaro Pour Homme even more. Difference is there, but the style says it all. Creamy, refined and elegant is the shortest description of YSL RG.

(tried for the first time 30.05.2014.)
02nd October, 2014

Cool Water Night Dive by Davidoff

Unoriginal in a unique way.

I myself am surprised how much I actually like this fragrance. Successfully emulates the depth of a sea, not too cold, not too warm. Invasive in it's syntheticity but only from up close. As the energy of it is dissipated in the air, it shows its simple magnificence creating the aura of bitterness, because of the dominant note of sage. Musk and woody notes balance it nicely, amber is quite potent more or less.
22nd September, 2014

Bulgari Man in Black by Bulgari

This fragrance is not original whatsoever, albeit it is quite nice and I dare say also quite refined. This is a hybrid of Gucci PH II with a little touch of Spicebomb. It is nice to know that somebody got an idea, since GPH II is discontinued, to blend the spirit of that fragrance into this one, and successfully at that. It is not synthetic, it has a tea note, it is also spicy and smoky at the same time. I'd say it's a pretty good fragrance. Albeit not a masterpiece or even less original, however regardless of that, a very, very fine work.
18th September, 2014

L'Homme Idéal by Guerlain

I approve. I can't believe that noone has actually noticed that L'Homme Ideal is an unoriginal fragrance, but from an instance that it is a copy of Pure Malt and Pure Havane. A good quality copy at that. So, why all the negative reviews I wonder? Almost everyone loves Pure Malt and Pure Havane. If you people would bother to side test them with L'Homme Ideal, you'd get it. I do not approve the fact that they've made a copy, however they've made a good fragrance non the less.
18th September, 2014

Nuit d'Issey by Issey Miyake

I don't know where exactly to start, but I'll try. There is this hybrid thing about Nuit, between Encre Noir vetiver not being dominant, quite inhibited and so Nuit is warmer. Strong echo of woody notes, very dry. There's also an echo here of La Luna Rossa/Prada Man and maybe even an echo of Azzaro Night Time. Nuit also somehow slightly touches the gourmand character and the suddenly runs away from it, thus confusing the wearer and maybe surroundings too.

Incense is strong, the echoes of the mentioned fragrances remain, but are no longer dominant, albeit enough to be noticed. The most dominant fling in this fragrance is dry wood that is almost like just about to start burning

This is not a fragrance I would've expected from this house. It was a surprise though, that they even make something named Nuit, then they actually make it the way they make it and there's surprise again.

No disappointment, no lamentations and yet no thrills either. Nuit is like a strange book that one needs to read over and over trying to figure it out. After a while one does not want to read it anymore as each passage is remembered, only contemplation which tries to lead to understanding remains. For how long and how persistent, depends upon the individual.

In dubio pro reo, that's why I'll rate it positive.
29th August, 2014

Bulgari Man Extreme by Bulgari

Fresh, green, soapy fragrance. Nothing extreme about it. Bottle is nice but that's about it. Spring, sunny day, for the office type of a fragrance. If it'd be a bit stronger, ironic since it is "extreme" version, I think I might say a bit more and also in a more positive tone. Neutral.
29th August, 2014