Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by manicboy

Showing all 35 reviews

Miracle Homme L'Aquatonic by Lancôme

Perhaps this is Lancome's finest modern men's scent. Don't be fooled by the Aqua title into thinking this is a marine/aquatic scent. It is not. It does smell like a fougere though it is not. More on that later. What it is an ode to green peppers, grass, refined wood and touch of spice. A ripe, freshly cut green pepper dominants the opening. Anybody who's sliced open a pepper will know the aroma. There's a touch of grass(vetiver) which combined with the green pepper produces a "fern" like smell to my nose. But this is no fougere. Perhaps the perfumers having a bit of fun with "fern" but wearing this does pep up one's spirits. The base comes fairly quickly which is dominated by gaiacwood & cedar. The gaiacwood here is rich yet never too strong. The woody notes blend wonderfully with the fresh green notes to make this close to a masterpiece. Perfect for summer/spring days in the sun. I tend to overspray on this one as it's a bit weak on my skin, but otherwise, I wholeheartedly recommend this scent to those who want a fresh, summery scent without the usual cliches and baggage of most men's fragrances.
22 September 2008

Roberto Cavalli Black by Roberto Cavalli

This one flew underneath everybody's radar. I don't think it was ever released in the US. Anyway, I did manage to get a bottle for a good price, and I'm glad I did. If you tried other "black" scents, forget those pretenders to the throne of darkness and give this one a try. First of all, this bottle is cool! A strikingly dark black/purple hue illuminates a snake crawling around the bottle. In a different light, the bottle turns green. But how does it smell? Like a modern take on a club scent that is balanced and nuanced. The opening reveals a bamboo and spice mix that is very inviting. Tickles the nose a bit. Gentle yet very elegant. Towards the midnotes, the white pepper and geranium take this to a different dimension. There's a subtle lavender note in here that's hard to detect but it's there if you "look" for it. Slowly the sweet wood and musk notes take over for a finale. You'd think with white pepper, lavender and musk, this would be an in-your-face fragrance, but I'm here to say that the perfumer did an excellent job blending these notes that it remains present but not "too" present. I'd also go so far to say that the vibe here is towards a dark, gothic glow. I can see some parallels to Armani's Black Code, but this one is more interesting because of the different transitions it takes, especially in the midnotes. Nothing groundbreaking here but a superb scent when all is said and done.
27 August 2008

Paco Rabanne pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

On paper, this scent seems like a spice bomb waiting to go off. Yes, the opening is a herbaceous warhead loaded with lavender aimed straight for the nose. They could use this as smelling salts if needed. Inexplicably it settles down in a honey-tobacco brew of clove and geranium. Finishes off in a 70's motif to oak moss & musk. Dated yes, but man, this stuff this smells good without apology. For daring men of all ages. Use it wisely!
27 August 2008

L'Oranger Neroli by L'Occitane

Do you want to fall in love again? Well, let's start with saying that hands down the best Neroli scent if not one of the best scents ever! Nothing comes close. What is Neroli anyway? After doing some research, it's the flower on the orange blossom tree. I once heard that it takes over 100 neroli flowers to create this juice. Whether that's true or not is immaterial. The scent opens with a tremendous green leaf and floral note. Leads you into a lush, fragrant grove somewhere in the countryside in Provence or Tuscany. Never has a fragrance transported me to another place such as this. Rose gardens pale in comparison to the majestic beauty of this. Next, the intoxicating Neroli takes over in the heart. Now this is where it gets confusing. Is Neroli supposed to be this floral? I don't know but I've fallen in love. Truly, an anti-depressant if there ever was one. Joy to the nth degree, smiling like a sunny Saturday afternoon in the summertime. Perfection at the tip of your nose. Lasts for hours on end, senses satiated at last. Walks off in batch of vanilla/tonka but still the neroli/floral lingers like a pleasant memory. It should be noted that it's an EdP, and it lives up to its name, lasting for ages upon ages. And I must add, it is quite possibly the finest scent you will sniff in your lifetime. Be glad you did because this one is utterly and incomprehensively discontinued. Must all beauty be destroyed??? Beg, borrow and steal for this. It's worth it!!!!!
15 August 2008

Helmut Lang Men by Helmut Lang

So this is what happens when you mix baby oil and baby powder. Perfect scent for a baby but for a mature man? I don't think so.
29 July 2008

Richard James by Richard James

A smoother Gucci Envy for Men? A toned-down Burberry Brit for Men? If there is such a thing, this is it. Subtle, suave and utterly intriguing. They throw everything but the kitchen sink in this one and you expect disaster. Quite the opposite. To my nose, four notes dominate and captivate: ginger, rose, suede & sandalwood. A very green Ginger starts the show. Soft and elegant, done well here not unlike Burberry Brit for Men. Slowly morphs into a floral rose that's so subtle you can miss it if you're not careful. Rounds out into dusty and powdery suede/sandalwood finale. Regarding the powder, this is so well crafted you don't mind being done & dusted. Just leave the wig at home! Great in the cold but can work in the warmer temps. Perfect in a suit at the office. Feels British in a Michael Caine sort of way.
09 July 2008

Envy for Men by Gucci

A modern masculine classic if there ever was one. Takes the best aspects of Brut & Old Spice and takes it to the next stratosphere so that Dad can wear something new. One of the most versatile men's scents too. Perfect for the office or a night on the town. With a tie or an open button-down shirt, it's doesn't matter. Envy handles it all so superbly. Starts out with a spicy accord that's really hard to pinpoint one note though the coriander & pepper make their presence known. Glides into a heart of ginger and carnation that give it both a sweet and piney aura. Also, I'm reminded of those great 70's scents that used carnation & pine. This is also where it takes it beats loudly, never too sweet or too piney either. Casually saunters out of the room in a breeze of vetiver, sandalwood & vanilla. Timeless and ageless. Uplifting and bright, romantic and cordial. Thumbs through the roof on this one.
24 June 2008

M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

I never knew what Agarwood smelled like until I got this. Groundbreaking to use in modern designer scent. Didn't pay off for YSL as it went straight to the bargain bins. Anyway, the opening notes say that Bergamot, Mandarin & Rosemary. I detect none of them. It's as if it goes straight to the heart of Agarwood. Smells a bit like Listerine of days gone by. Bracing and hard to accept at first. Has a burnt quality as well. The Vetiver gives it a very earthy and tuberous-root feel. Somebody mentioned that there's mandrake root in here and I believe it. After about 30 minutes, it starts an ominous brown glow of musk & amber. Captivating, intriguing & smooth. Lasts for ages too. I will add that this scent is suitable only for Autumn & Winter nights.
26 May 2008

Opium pour Homme Eau d'Orient by Yves Saint Laurent

This review is for the 2007 version.

Finally, we reach the Orient. Created for Spring/Summer wearing, Orient is perhaps the most different from the other two. For its opening, the blackcurrant is replaced with grapefruit that adds a brighter hue that blends really well with the edgy star anise. Like the EdT, pepper and ginger are here but with added nutmeg which rounds off some of the orientalness found in the EdT. Now, the final stage is where Orient really stands out from the other two. Instead of vanilla, the base relies on a heady mix of vetiver and sandlewood with a dash of amber. It's dry, then sweet, then woody, then dry, then sweet, then woody all over again. Very distinct from the other two. I find the Orient works perfect in the heat unlike the other two which may have something to do with its lack of vanilla. Further, it is the most versatile of the 3 varieties as I could see wearing this in the colder months as well.
23 May 2008

Opium pour Homme Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening is a dark fruit hue that brings to mind prunes and raisins. It's says it blackcurrant but the blackcurrant I've come across never smelled this good. It's next phase enters into a deep vanilla/amber accord. Never overtly sweet or cloying, the accord lasts ages on end. Compared to the other two, the vanilla here is more rounded and smooth. There's also a lack of spice (pepper and star anise) that really stands the EdP apart from the other two. Definitely the most refined of the lot, it would be hard to wear this in any occasion other than a formal night out.
23 May 2008

Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Like the EdP's opening salvo, the EdT has a dark fruit hue too but it's sharpened up with star anise bringing out the blackcurrant more so. There's a dish that I like at the local Tapas joint that serves a stuffed prune with mint cream filling that reminds me of the EdT. In it's next phase, the black pepper and ginger bring the orientalness to the foreground. Each is excellently blended never tilting the balance too much over the edge. Finally, the vanilla/amber accord finishes off much like the EdP but with a lighter and slightly woody finale. Lighter and spicier than the EdP and more versatile for wearing too though I have trouble with this one in the heat.
23 May 2008

Black Pepper by Molton Brown

I reckon that BP is the only fragrance where the body wash outsells the EdT. And for good reason. The elements that make the body wash so good are here in the EdT but not much more. And that’s the problem. The body wash is a jolt of sharp black pepper and rolling ginger. Stimulating? Yes! Memorable 30 minutes after a shower? No. But back to the fragrance, yes, there’s black pepper and ginger which hold your attention for 30 minutes like the body wash. But after that, the boredom sets in. It doesn’t evolve like advertised. Coriander & cumin? Nope. Violet Leaf & Slovenian Oak Moss? Nope. Either these notes are so muted by the ginger & pepper or they are simply not there. There are much better frags out there of this lineage (Joop! Roccoco & Gucci PH come to mind). Save your money for these guys. And get the body wash already!
19 May 2008

Boss Bottled by Hugo Boss

Thumbs up but barely. The opening is a synthetic blast of apple & bergamot. Smells somewhat overworked & overdone but it gets better. Suprise, clove and cinnamon come to rescue this sad-sack opening. Though the clove/cinnamon are not as epic & grand like Obsession for Men, this accord makes me forget the weak opening. Vanilla & tonka round this out with a touch of wood though it's hard to get a grip on what kind of wood as it's kind of blurry. Still, quite a safe bet for Dieter to wear to his first day at Siemens. Nice but it's Boss so lower thy expectations and proceed cautiously.
12 May 2008

CK In 2U Him by Calvin Klein

If you will indulge me a few moments, I'd like to profess my love for CKIN2U for Him. I know it's detested here, but I must digress from the negative tide and say it's got depth, originality & quality. It's fizzy citrus opening is balanced and original. As it warms, the soft and slightly powdery cocoa/pimento accord develops. This stage is where I fell in love. Is it a gourmand or an oriental? Or both? I don't know, but it smells like an fine dessert (maybe cannoli?) waiting to be eaten. This accord fades into a light woody with a touch of white musk finale. The longevity is good and the bottle is unique and easy to handle. I haven't been this enthralled with CK since Obsession for Men came out which is not to say it's a masterpiece like Obsession. It does however, have more going for it than 95% of frags released last year. And yes, I detest the "techo-sexual", "young boy on the prowl" marketing campaign. In the end, this one succeeds.
02 May 2008

Eau des Baux by L'Occitane

Finally, a scent made for a Templar Knight! When you’re battling with the forces of darkness, it pays to smell good. Seriously, this scent is phenomenal. It’s quite unlike anything that’s ever come before it. It opens with the a mysterious spicy glow of Cardamom & Pink Peppercorn. Almost fruity but never quite there. Next, the incense rises with the Cyprus like a vapor from a cistern waving in a cleric’s hand. The vanilla/tonka sweeten the base at the end to give the Templar a lesson from the orient. Will last long enough for the battle and on through the night. I am forever swept under its majestic glow.
02 May 2008

Présence by Mont Blanc

At first whiff, I was unable to detect notes that I was unfamilar with but I liked it. Then the minty, smooth notes started to develop, and I started to love it. t's a fresh, casual scent best suited for spring & summer. Reminds me Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male without the vanilla notes. Good alternative to aquatic scents.
18 April 2008

Diesel Zero Plus by Diesel

Imagine if you will a red balloon covered in talcum powder. It explodes and out bursts an airy mix of cinnamon, crushed anise & cloves. This is what Luten's Rousse wants to be. Too good to be relegated to the drugstore. Next time you're picking up aspirin & Q-Tips, do us a favor and pick up some 0+.
21 November 2007

Cuiron Pour Homme by Helmut Lang

Let me first say that this is not your father's leather scent. Nor is it your mother's. And it's not "English" or "Spanish". Cuiron exists without distinction or comparison. It can only be categorized as the best leather ever created, up there with the finest scents ever known to man. Happiness would be a window-less, poorly ventilated room with only a bottle of Cuiron to keep you company.

The scent opens with a dark plum and pepper that is neither fruity or sharp. Gradually, the leather starts to grab hold, like a leather glove on a cold day. Leather here is manly yet never overpowering. More of a new leather jacket smell than a worn one. But in reality, that jacket never smelled this good. Musk slowly creeps into the picture to finish off this potion. When it ends, don't be surprised to find yourself reaching for another spritz. This stuff is addictive. Don't say I didn't warn you!
21 November 2007

H.M. by Hanae Mori

According to legend, Mr. Mori was hungry and asked for his assistant to bring him an ice cream sundae. His assistant brought this back (EdP) instead. Yes, it is an ode to the ice cream sundae complete with cherries, vanilla, and chocolate. Now, on paper, you'd think this would come off as some dimestore teenage girl fragrance. However, the perfumer has done a masterful job in mixing the ingrediants particularly the chocolate which is very subtle. Probably the creamiest fragrance out there. Lasts long past dinner time so you'll have something to nibble on before bed.
20 November 2007

Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Want to smell like a man? Not just any man, but one that evokes class, sophistication, intrigue, and sensuality. So difficult to answer. Fortunately, YSL via Tom Ford, asked this question and came up with the answer. The opening wafts in like a cool breeze across a hot asphalt. It's sweet (Bergamot) with some spice tones (Rosemary & Star Anise) thrown in to balance the sweetness. Grows heavier and deeper as the Clove and Lavender add that French barbershop vibe to the mix. Tries to escape out the back door in a delicious blaze of Patchouli & Wood (Gaiac) with a hint of Vetiver. Warm, inviting, and sensual. Turns men like Gomer Pyle into Alan Delon types. This is how I imagine what Serge Gainsbourg would smell like in his prime. Jane Birkin would've came back had Rive Gauche been around. It doesn't get any better than this, guys.
31 July 2007

Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein

Why did I ever do to deserve this divine gift in a honey-jar? Yes, it looks like honey but oddly enough, it does not have any honey notes in it. But the honey theme is carried out in it's refined and mellow sweetness. Soft as a feather, comforting like a pillow, the opening invites you fill your nose with mandarin and bergamot. Slowly, but surely, the cloves/spices appear to lead it in another direction. And for the finale, the vanilla, amber and musk add the warmth and sweetness. Lasts all day and into the night. Perfect for every season, never cloying, always right for any occasion. The perfect Oriental? Even Ghengis Khan would bow down to Obsession.
18 July 2007

Zino Davidoff by Davidoff

In a dream, it was Autumn and I was walking on moist leaves in a graveyard. It was night where the cool, crisp air hangs heavy in the moonlight. I came upon an open grave. Roses and white lilies were strewn near the tombstone. I knelt down to peer into the abyss and saw nothing but darkness. I noticed that the leather on my boots was wet with mud and earth. A wave of melancholy overtook me, and I looked up to read the name on the tombstone. It was mine...
30 June 2007

Séxual pour Homme by Michel Germain

I've admired this one for quite some time but never took the plunge until I saw a gift set on sale for $40. I've always laughed to myself about the name - Sexual? That's asking for trouble. It does take aim for the loins, but the question is whose loins is it going after? This is the one your mother warned you about.

This potion has an intoxicating opening. Heavy, deep and spicy. But not too spicy. I've yet to find the scent pyramid for this bad boy but Germain's website says it contains basil, sage and sandlewood in that order. All "Indian", as in Eastern Indian. Could this be the start of a new genre? Forget Oriental, this is Indian! I also detect tobacco, musk, and tonka bean. Whether they're from India is anyone's guess.

As the scent progresses, the spices stick around a long time before it turns slightly sweet and woody. Some have compared this to D&G Homme's drydown which I can see but Séxual's tobacco is more in the background.

Now back to those "aphrodisiac" qualities. I wore it out on a Saturday night with the girlfriend thinking if this doesn't light her fire, then what will? As the night progressed, her reaction was muted indifference. However, my reaction was of sensual bliss, and I could not stop smelling myself! Then it struck me, this potion does possess aphrodisiacs. Too bad it's you instead of those around you that fall under its spell.
23 March 2007

Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier

First of all, I should probably post this review in the women's discussion board. As a spokesman for all Metrosexual males everywhere, this juice isn't for us. Not even close. It's a ladies perfume at best and ice cream topping at worst. As a fan of really sweet concoctions such as Joop! Homme, Opium and even JPG #1; JPG #2 raises the "candy bar" even higher. This stuff will actually put pounds on you.

The drama starts off with a rather annoying & cloying bubblegum vapor. And when I say bubblegum, I'm talking Bubblicious. Grape to be exact. I haven't smelled this stuff since middle school. I believe that's the Amber talking. This bubblegum note lasts a rather long time as it's a EdP. And it's very feminine. I had to look under my shirt to make sure I didn't have breasts!

Once the bubblegum gets swallowed up by your skin, the vanilla takes over. Now I love the vanilla in JPG #1, but here is rather boring and staid. Smells exactly like the vanilla candles I picked up at Target for $5. I detect Tonka here too, but again it doesn't do much for me. I read there's some Musk in here, but I can't detect any. Musk would've added some dimension and depth to this juice, but it's pretty much two "annoying & cloying" notes: bubblegum and candles. I don't chew bubblegum anymore and I've got plenty of candles. Next!
06 September 2006

Tangerine Vert by Miller Harris

This stuff is good. Really good. I don't care for fruit based scents, but the deep tangerine notes sweep you off your feet. Turns slightly sweet & green on the drydown. Has good longevity too. One of Miller's best!
27 July 2006

Bulgari Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

Captures the salty sea scent better than any frag I've come across. Imagine the beach, not just any beach, but a beach off the coast of some Meditarean seaport where ships are pulling in their latest catch. Maybe Italy, maybe Greece. A slim, tall and dark-skinned woman saunters by in a white bikini with a cursive smile pursed on her lips and says in her best foreign voice, "You smell like heaven. What are you wearing?" You reply, "I'm not wearing anything, it's the sea you smell." She sighs and says, "They should bottle that and sell it like hotcakes." Then and only then will you understand Aqua de Bulgari pour Homme.
24 June 2006

Royal Delight by Creed

Kind of smells like Scotch tape! But that's not all that bad. More feminine than I like. May will give it another shot later.
03 May 2006

Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

In my opinion, the greatest unisex scent ever made. CK One has nothing on this. It's not too feminine and certainly not too masculine. Everybody I know loves this stuff as it just screams freshness and cleanliness. The opening blast is a heady mix of green soap and grass. Kind of like a really good bar of soap if that makes any sense. The drydown evolves into a sweet and comforting glow of white musk and petit grain with a hint of orange. Bottle comes with both a splash applicator and an atomizer so you choose how to apply it. My only complaint is I wish it lasted longer. All in all, the great scent for spring & summer.
04 April 2006

Nightflight by Joop!

This is one of the first scents I ever bought. What initially attracted me was the flacon. It's meant to resemble a starry night. Elegant, regal, intriguing, inviting. And that's just the bottle! Now the juice inside. Opens with dark citrusey notes of pineapple & lemon. Very fresh opening. Refreshing to say the least. Slowly develops into a flowery scent. I read somewhere it has essence of night flowers in it. As the name suggests, it's mainly for nighttime use, and it will keep you refreshed all night. It's particularly good in the Spring/Summer. Fantastic scent to say the least.
31 March 2006

Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

First, let me say this scent is not for everyone. It can be defined as an aquired taste. I gave my father some of this for his birthday, and he had to give it back to me. At first whiff, I'm sure the first response will be, “It smells like a pencil sharpener from grade school!” This was my first response too. But once you overcome the initial shock, give it a few hours to settle in. Yes, the initial blast is peppery and woody. Some would say pungent. Did I mention it's woody? However, once things settle down, the ambery, leathery, and sweet notes start to appear. And that's when it hits you that this juice is fantastic. Good for nighttime and going out. Would never wear while the sun is still out. Lasts until dawn.
31 March 2006

Dior Homme by Christian Dior

In my opinion, one of the finest scents I've ever smelled. Very complex and subtle. Opens with a powdery burst of sweet and slightly smoky spices which I believe is Iris, Cocoa and Cardamom. Reminds me slightly of caramel too. Akin to walking into an exotic bakery. Slowly dries down to a sugary, leather note. Lasts all day. Bottle and atomizer are fantastic too. Bottle has some great straight lines and atomizer includes a metal tube that flows down through the flacon. Brilliant and unique!
30 March 2006

Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

Probably one of the finest frags I own. Everyone I know loves it. Complex and unique -like me! I would describe it like an unlit cigarette in a walk-in humidor with lemons strewn on the ground. Drydown is phenomenal.
08 February 2006

Brit for Men by Burberry

Very sweet, somewhat feminine. Suprised Burberry puts this juice out given their conservative fashions (plaid?). I would describe it like a Gingerbread house built with a Tonka bean floor, roses for the ceiling and baby powder for the air conditioning.
08 February 2006

Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

Suprised nobody's mentioned it, but this is clearly Gaultier's version of a French Vanilla scent. Not very original but... it's rather good though. And well executed too. A female friend used to wear French Vanilla by Dana and when I sampled this at Ulta, that's what it reminded me of. When I first bought it, I couldn't figure out how to open the tin can so I got out the can opener! The scent is pure unalterated vanilla. The sweetness is almost overpowering if applied too much. But just a little bit will lead you to vanilla heaven. The vanilla note pretty much kills the other notes but so what. Cedar? Amber? Cumin? Don't think so. It would be interesting if they would tone down the vanilla note and let the other notes perk up for a follow-up scent. Instead we have the awful Gaultier 2!
19 January 2006

Starwalker by Mont Blanc

I would describe it as "sweet with a spicy edge." Similar to Armani Black Code but more refined. One of the best scents of the year despite the poor name. Another quality release from the one of the best fragrance houses IMHO. When will Mont Blanc get the credit they deserve?
28 December 2005
 
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