Fragrance Reviews
Fragrance Reviews by manicboy
Showing all 63 reviews
Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent
Like the EdP's opening salvo, the EdT has a dark fruit hue too but it's sharpened up with star anise bringing out the blackcurrant more so. There's a dish that I like at the local Tapas joint that serves a stuffed prune with mint cream filling that reminds me of the EdT. In it's next phase, the black pepper and ginger bring the orientalness to the foreground. Each is excellently blended never tilting the balance too much over the edge. Finally, the vanilla/amber accord finishes off much like the EdP but with a lighter and slightly woody finale. Lighter and spicier than the EdP and more versatile for wearing too though I have trouble with this one in the heat.
12 July 2009
Terre d'Hermès by Hermès
The scent that made Jean-Claude Ellena a household name. Well, not really, but it definitely padded his 401k. When I first tried this on paper, I was unimpressed with the tart-citrus notes that came off “sticky”. Fast forward a year, I was at an international art show on a sunny yet cool spring saturday afternoon. Passing a booth of art dealers from London, I caught a whiff of TdH. This time it was glorious, classy and captivating. I need to get this, I thought. And so I did.
Breaking down the elements of the TdH, it opens with tart orange-grapefruit notes. On paper, it gets sticky but on skin, it's a orchard of low-hanging oranges and grapefruit near your nose. The citric tartness fades into a spritely accord of pink-peppercorn and bergamot. Now some people detect patchouli and the infamous “flint” notes but I can not. The pink peppercorn dominates here to great effect. The basenotes are a medley of light-sparkling cedar, amber and vetiver. The sweetness from the amber is very prevalent but never tips the balance to the sweet side. The vetiver adds the “Terre” to the brew that brings it back to Earth. I find the vetiver and amber similar to that in B*Men. Excellent longevity and sillage. In my mind, Ellena's finest moment. Not quite a masterpiece but a superb scent for those sunny spring/summer days that you wish would never end.
Breaking down the elements of the TdH, it opens with tart orange-grapefruit notes. On paper, it gets sticky but on skin, it's a orchard of low-hanging oranges and grapefruit near your nose. The citric tartness fades into a spritely accord of pink-peppercorn and bergamot. Now some people detect patchouli and the infamous “flint” notes but I can not. The pink peppercorn dominates here to great effect. The basenotes are a medley of light-sparkling cedar, amber and vetiver. The sweetness from the amber is very prevalent but never tips the balance to the sweet side. The vetiver adds the “Terre” to the brew that brings it back to Earth. I find the vetiver and amber similar to that in B*Men. Excellent longevity and sillage. In my mind, Ellena's finest moment. Not quite a masterpiece but a superb scent for those sunny spring/summer days that you wish would never end.
08 July 2009
Antidote by Viktor & Rolf
Watered down Gucci Envy for Men. Get the real thing for full effect.
02 July 2009
Héritage by Guerlain
Guerlain's response to Chanel's Egoiste? I have to think so, but is it better? More on that later. I must admit that I have a really hard time picking out notes here beyond the Bergamot, the Vanilla and a subtle-rose note. I can not for the life of me detect Lavender, Lemon, Patchouli or Cedar. The structure here is simple and classic Guerlain - nuanced use of Vanilla and Bergamot. There's a subtle spicy-rose note (rosewood?) that reminds me of a toned-down Zino, and I wish this note was more prominent and stronger. The vanilla/tonka base is quite good though and never overpowering as Guerlain are the masters of vanilla. That said, I feel that Heritage lacks character. Yes, it makes a lot of good moves and looks good while doing it, but it never goes in for the kill. In the end, I will continue to reach for Egoiste over Heritage when I want a stately and majestic fragrance. However, I give Heritage thumbs up for its overall quality, particularly the bergamot and vanilla. If you’re looking for a masterpiece or a scent with character, keep looking. Heritage is good but not great.
02 June 2009
Oscar de la Renta pour Lui by Oscar de la Renta
Be advised that Pour Lui has been reformulated. The new version pales in comparison to the older-vintage version so much so that the new version is unwearable. The opening is pure watered-down cola. Even the drydown is thin and feeble. Yes, it’s true - Lui’s manhood has been severed.
Now let’s talk about the vintage version which still can be scored for a good price if you know where to look. The opening is quite unique in that it smells great but you are unsure as to what you are smelling. Aldehydes? I believe so. There’s a pleasant green-pine note that pops up from time to time. The midnotes of carnation and patchouli shift this beast into overdrive as the sillage gets stronger and bolder. One also gets a faint breeze of cinnamon and incense. Ends with a big oak mossy finish that would put most 70’s scents to shame. This is truly a great scent and deserves better treatment from Oscar. Shame.
Now let’s talk about the vintage version which still can be scored for a good price if you know where to look. The opening is quite unique in that it smells great but you are unsure as to what you are smelling. Aldehydes? I believe so. There’s a pleasant green-pine note that pops up from time to time. The midnotes of carnation and patchouli shift this beast into overdrive as the sillage gets stronger and bolder. One also gets a faint breeze of cinnamon and incense. Ends with a big oak mossy finish that would put most 70’s scents to shame. This is truly a great scent and deserves better treatment from Oscar. Shame.
29 May 2009
Michael for Men by Michael Kors
I wish I could smell one. Like Burberry London, fantastic on paper but gone in minutes on my skin. Over spraying does not help. A very lively but brief encounter with tobacco, cognac and plum. Just when I'm ready to fall in love, she's gone. Your mileage may vary so try before you buy.
18 May 2009
Tam Dao by Diptyque
Rather simple and linear affair of creamy sandalwood. I don't get much movement out this one, but it sit well. Smells natural and good. Can't say I reach for it very often, but it's a nice alternative to incense-based frags when you're in the mood for incense but don't want the church that goes with it.
18 May 2009
Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche
3 words - lewd, crude and rude. This is the best I can do to describe DN. Yes, it's an strong, aromatic fougere from the 80's. Unfortunately, it's just not good or interesting enough in the face of its competition - Paco Rabanne PH and Azzaro PH. The opening blast is not unlike Paco's opening. However, instead of nice balance between the lavender and herbs/spice, the spice overtakes and eats the lavender for breakfast. Smells cheap and not unlike a locker-room of sweaty boys trying to cover their body odour with Right Guard. The drydown veers more towards Azzaro PH's direction and again, it fails miserably as the oak moss and patchouli are very crude and a bit too weak. Why would anybody bother with DN when there's Paco and Azzaro?
18 May 2009
Rochas Lui by Rochas
I don’t wear this one often but, my word, this is too lovely. It seems to me that Terre D'Hermes gets a lot of press but IMHO Ellena stole the Lui’s structure for TdH. So what makes Lui so good? Well, one is the use of neroli in such a different way. You can call me a neroli fiend, but the perfumer here takes away the brightness usually found in neroli and paints it black. Well, not black but darker nonetheless. This is no happy and cheery frag. It's reserved solely for bleak winter days that offer no hope for summer. What else makes this one special? The "bison/buffalo grass" notes found in the heart notes. Now, I must admit that I'm also a bit of a vetiver fiend, and the bison/buffalo grass here seems to be a new-found vetiver accord unseen in any other frag. Rich, heady, and sharp; this is truly an undiscovered country we are now in. And lastly? Its clever use of vanilla. Understated, nuanced and blended perfectly with the cedar/patchouli, this is marvelous. The vanilla seems to be Guerlainesque in quality and subtleness. If you yearn for a winter version of TdH or a more modern Parfum de Nicolai New York, get Lui. Even you don’t yearn get Lui anyway. Not only is it Rochas’ finest moment, it’s one of the best masculine scents out there and flirts with masterpiece status in my book.
08 May 2009
Rochas Man by Rochas
What coffee? What chocolate? I smell neither, but I do smell cocoa at the heart. To be honest, I detest both coffee and chocolate notes in perfumery so if they were in here, I’d run for the hills. What I do smell is a very enjoyable green and fruity opening followed by a nice cocoa accord that segues into a warm tonka base. Great longevity and sillage to boot. In a word, lovely. If you don’t like the scent, you can always give the bottle to the lady in your life and perhaps she can find a use for it;}
08 May 2009
212 Men by Carolina Herrera
Why New York? Anyway, 212 Men is an attractive casual fragrance that aims to please men who want something different that’s still “fresh and green” but aren’t ready for the vetiver genre quite yet. Seems to have fallen out of favor recently but…It opens with a very green note that approximates fresh cut grass, lawnmower-exhaust fumes not included, which brings to mind a great idea for a new fragrance – the gasoline fumes from Fahrenheit melded with the grass notes of 212 Men but I digress. The grass here is more sharp than mossy though. The midnotes throw you for a loop as they’re both spicy (green pepper) and floral (gardenia) but nonetheless it works well with the grass. I find that the musk dominates the basenotes (and the mid/top notes for that matter) and a slight sandalwood/incense accord pokes its head thru once in a while. Definitely, more musky than woody. So, if you like musky grass, 212 has got your number. Don’t be surprised if he comes calling.
04 May 2009
L'OCCITAN by L'Occitane
This one is definitely subtle and usually flys underneath everyone's radar until it finally hits you: this smells great. The opening is a marriage of black pepper and lavender. The lavender is not like Caron's Un Homme at all. Here, it's quiet, muted and distinctive. This alone is worth the price of admission. Black pepper is a prompt and courteous dance partner to the lavender. It does not step on any toes like Black Pepper usually does. The cinnamon and nutmeg tap the black pepper on the shoulder and take their turn on the dancefloor. Here I get a roasted-almond aroma not unlike the kind you see/smell at the local Ren Faire. Memories of Azzaro Visit also come to mind with its distinctive nutmeg note. I find that the lavendar and the cinnamon/nutmeg stick around forever. After it seems like ages, the last dance is saved for the Cedar and Tonka. Both come on very quietly and if you blink you will miss them. Longevity is good but sillage is below average. Your dance partner will be the only one to notice you on the dancefloor. But what she smells will keep her spellbound all night. Let this be the best $40 you ever spent.
07 April 2009
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana
The jig is up on this one. Does not resemble the female version in any way. Smells like shower water, and that's the best thing I can say. In a word, dreadful.
27 March 2009
Minotaure by Paloma Picasso
Minotaure is a very strange fragrance. It is also very good. I am not surprised that David Bowie wears this. The opening is an array of strange spices and aldehydes. According to the notes listed, the spices are Tarragon, which I must admit I’m not familiar with, and Coriander. The aldehydes here offer an almost orange-fruit aroma to the proceedings. They’re very similar to the aldehydes in Allure Homme. For many men, myself included, aldehydes may require some getting used to as they are complex and very synthetic to the nose. That said, it works well with the spice. Moving to the next stage, I get a strong presence of geranium and jasmine. Unsurprisingly, the road from the spice/aldehydes travels well into the floral arrangement. The florals here never tilt towards a feminine scent and retain their masculine charm. Finally, the sweet-base of Tonka/vanilla & sandalwood step in but very gently. So light that the spice/aldehydes and floral notes keep overstepping them. And suddenly, the drama ends all too soon. As noted by others, longevity and sillage are weak as I get maybe 3 to 4 good hours before it vanishes. In summary, Minotaure is a unique and attractive scent that deserves attention. However, one should proceed with caution if longevity and sillage are important.
06 March 2009
Green Irish Tweed by Creed
With GIT, the only question is - "Is it better than Cool Water?" To that, I say yes but barely. The first hour of development of both frags are identical. Things start to deviate at the base where Cool Water gets "grapey" and GIT gets "mossy". GIT is an attractive, fresh and natural fragrance. I'm not a big fan of this genre, "Fresh Fougere", but GIT (and CW) are kings of the heap. Having said that, I would never pay full price for a bottle of GIT when there's CW available at much cheaper prices. Buy only at a significant discount.
03 March 2009
Tumulte pour Homme by Christian Lacroix
If a tree falls in a forest and there's nobody there to smell it, does it still smell? Tumulte is both confusing and exceedingly one-note at the same time. Confusing because is it cedar one is smelling or is it incense? Makes you think about incense's tree-origins. And one-note because that's all you smell during the life of it. Juniper, geranium, elemi? Don't think so. Having said that, it's quite a nice 1-note or 2-note if you can differentiate the cedar and incense. There really is no development at all. Question is do I recommend it? I would say yes but with caveats. If you have CdG Kyoto, don't bother as they are brother and sister. If you can't find a bottle under $25, don't bother. If you want a new take on cedar/incense, don't bother. However, if you are comfortable with these caveats and looking for a solid cedar/incense frag, go for it.
03 March 2009
Allure Homme by Chanel
Apparently, the ladies love this one. But do I? Yes but...
The topnotes are OK. I do not dislike them but then again I do not like them. It's a peachy citrus accord mated with aldehydes that do nothing for me and it seems a bit confused. But I can smell better things ahead. As it progresses to towards the heart of spicy black pepper and tonka/vanilla, this is where Allure will start to win you over. The pepper is light and not overpowering and so is the tonka/vanilla. The effect is smokey sweetness which approaches a pipe-tobacco aroma but never quite gets there. It veers towards a dry, sandalwood which mixes luxuriously with the vanilla/tonka to make this drydown one to remember. Don't believe Luca Turin and his 1-star rating. This one is worth its cost for the drydown alone. Not Chanel's best masculine but definitely one worth investigating.
The topnotes are OK. I do not dislike them but then again I do not like them. It's a peachy citrus accord mated with aldehydes that do nothing for me and it seems a bit confused. But I can smell better things ahead. As it progresses to towards the heart of spicy black pepper and tonka/vanilla, this is where Allure will start to win you over. The pepper is light and not overpowering and so is the tonka/vanilla. The effect is smokey sweetness which approaches a pipe-tobacco aroma but never quite gets there. It veers towards a dry, sandalwood which mixes luxuriously with the vanilla/tonka to make this drydown one to remember. Don't believe Luca Turin and his 1-star rating. This one is worth its cost for the drydown alone. Not Chanel's best masculine but definitely one worth investigating.
19 February 2009
Original Santal by Creed
Why would any spend $100+ for a bottle of Mont Blanc Individuel that's labeled as Creed Original Santal??? And Individuel is a rip-off of Joop Homme, BTW. To be fair, I love Joop Homme when applied lightly and find Individuel OK if derivative. So, to sum up, OS is crude, overpriced and derivative. Avoid at all costs!!!
10 February 2009
Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel
Awash with noble gestures and an aura of an old-world gentleman, Egoiste demands to be taken seriously. The opening is a puff of majestic rose and delicate spice. The rose here is not feminine but takes a masculine guise. To accomplish this feat is difficult to achieve. Slowly, the gentlemen starts to get a little dirty with sandalwood coming to the fore. Adds an almost fecal quality to the rose that on paper smells rank. But on skin, the duality of the rose against the sandalwood smells divine. Just when you think you figured it out, the sweet notes of amber and vanilla reveal the 3rd dimension. The sweetness is bold and dynamic and smells wonderful. Just right for longevity and strength. This could be Chanel's best masculine ever.
28 January 2009
Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka by Hermès
In a field of vetivers, this one does NOT stand out. Truth in labeling, the vetiver here is of the minimal variety. Smooth and a bit dull if you ask me. Tonka is the star here. It's nice but again, the competition in Vetivers is very strong, and this does nothing for me. Exorbitantly overpriced for what it is. Spend your money elsewhere. And get back to work Monsieur Elena, you can do better than this.
12 January 2009
Pi by Givenchy
Rather simple and quite linear scent. All vanilla and not much else. Bored me to tears. Think they blew their wad on the bottle (one the best out there) and forgot to put some creativity in the juice. Smells very synthetic too. One of the few good qualities of Pi is that it has good sillage & longevity. However, there's much better orientals out there like Heritage, Must PH Essence and Egoiste. Spend your money on these and forget about Pi. Except if you're into Trigonometry!
02 January 2009
Guerlain Homme by Guerlain
Smells like something from Tommy Bahamas Set Sails series. Not bad if it had Tommy B on the bottle but alas, it has Guerlain. Definitely a change in direction from them but this screams mediocrity and blandness. I expected better from this house.
31 December 2008
Roadster by Cartier
Sharp mint and a huge sour note. Not even the "cashmere" woods & vanilla can save this from disaster. Unwearable.
31 December 2008
Gucci by Gucci pour Homme by Gucci
It's as if they mixed Gucci PH I (incense & woods) & Gucci PH II (dank tea and violets) and got this mess. Very weak too. There are much better scents out there.
31 December 2008
Vetyver by L'Occitane
This is the best Vetiver-based fragrance period. Unlike many vetivers on the market, this one is more than one overpowering note. That raw, dry-earth vibe the vetiver carries is here, but the perfumer toned it down considerably and threw in some interesting twists. The opening is quite lemony/citrusy. Not bright lemon-fresh but more like roasted lemons. As the lemons drift away, the spice and cedar/gaiac wood take over to really give a darker glow to the proceedings. A rich, earthy accord of vetvyer and leather follows closely. It’s almost as if there are no mid-notes here but only two stages of development. The lack in development is more than made up for by the quality and the strength of the top and base accords. Since this is a heavier fragrance, it’s perfect for cold and dreary fall/winter days. There is something comforting in its darkness. One of L’Occitane’s best and head-and-shoulders above all frags that lay claim to the vetiver title.
12 December 2008
Number 3 / Le 3me Homme / The Third Man by Caron
It’s as if Caron took the main elements of their Pour Un Homme and gave them to Salvador Dali to rework into a more interesting fragrance. PUH’s lavender and vanilla are here in 3rd Man but so are a few twists and turns. Like Pour Un Homme, the opening is heavy with lavender. Unlike PUH, the Lavender is mated with a strong herbaceous accord of rosemary and anise. Evolves into a floral bouquet of carnation & jasmin with an earthy clove backdrop. A classic 70’s accord if there ever was one but still modern in the same breath. Rounds out in vanilla/amber and musk/oakmoss. Again, a familiar 70’s motif that doesn’t smell dated. I find 3rd Man more oriental than fougere but you may disagree. What kind of man (or woman) wears 3rd Man? One that’s distinguished and possesses a certain “savoir faire”. Despite its name, I’d say 3rd Man is more appropriate for every 3000th Man. This is not for everybody, but if you’re too old for Le Male and too young for PUH, get 3rd Man. Perhaps Caron’s finest moment and as such, it’s got some real strong legs to it so go lightly on the trigger.
12 December 2008
The Dreamer by Versace
Dreams are strange and don’t let anybody tell you different. When’s the last time you understood one of your dreams? Don’t bother but do bother with the Dreamer. Like its name, it is strange and other-worldly. Like many who have gone before me, the Dreamer startled me in a bad way at first. It was unlike anything I’ve ever smelled and had to wash it off as it was just too much for me take. Like a persistent dream, it came back a few years later. A wiser nose was able to not only tolerate the opening blast, but kind of enjoyed it. As it played out, it got better and better. By the time the tobacco leaves arrived, I was in heaven. I still don’t understand the opening notes, but it makes perfect sense in the grand scheme of things. Spicy-floral-fruity? Who knows but what leads next is a heavenly blend of tobacco leaves and tonka. The tobacco is moist and wet like chewing tobacco without the mint. The tonka is subtle and discreet. Dreamer is surprisingly light and seems to project well. Perfect for summer nights. Works great as an alternative to D&G PH & Le Male in the clubs. Writer Chandler Burr was correct to praise the Dreamer at the end of Empower of Scent. It’s the stuff of dreams.
12 December 2008
Joop! Homme by Joop!
This one changed everything - for me and the rest of the world. I must admit that this review will be biased as JH was one of my first loves. Yes, I got this while I was in high school from my father. The bottle is an absolute charmer. Starting with the pink/maroon color to the way it fits in your hand to the lettering. Pure eye candy! Is it nose candy, all puns intended? Yes, in all ways and more. The opening strike is a high-pitched, blood-sugar raising lick of a lolly-pop. Heavy no, but it sure gets your attention with Orange Blossom & Bergamot. I must warn you that you must go easy on the trigger, 3 sprays at most. Anything more and this will kill. As it settles down, the floral Jasmine and sweet Cinnamon come to the foreground. You'll notice that the mid-notes are just as high-pitched as the opening. No doubt about it, this is EdP strength. And it is also unisex contrary to the Homme moniker. The drydown lasts for days and marches to a tune of Vanilla, Sandalwood and Tonka. The sandalwood saves this from getting too femme. Also, the Vanilla & Tonka really tame the floral mid-notes down a bit. All in all, a groundbreaking fragrance that turned an obscure and unknown Germany company into a household name that can still be found in drugstores, discount dens and upscale department stores around the world 20 years after it was released. JH ushered in a new era for men which said it was OK to borrow the girlfriend's scarf and squirt some sweet-smelling juice from a pink bottle before going out for a night on the town with the boys. Many a masculine scent that followed borrowed something from JH. We bask in its glory.
22 October 2008
Miracle Homme L'Aquatonic by Lancôme
Perhaps this is Lancome's finest modern men's scent. Don't be fooled by the Aqua title into thinking this is a marine/aquatic scent. It is not. It does smell like a fougere though it is not. More on that later. What it is an ode to green peppers, grass, refined wood and touch of spice. A ripe, freshly cut green pepper dominants the opening. Anybody who's sliced open a pepper will know the aroma. There's a touch of grass(vetiver) which combined with the green pepper produces a "fern" like smell to my nose. But this is no fougere. Perhaps the perfumers having a bit of fun with "fern" but wearing this does pep up one's spirits. The base comes fairly quickly which is dominated by gaiacwood & cedar. The gaiacwood here is rich yet never too strong. The woody notes blend wonderfully with the fresh green notes to make this close to a masterpiece. Perfect for summer/spring days in the sun. I tend to overspray on this one as it's a bit weak on my skin, but otherwise, I wholeheartedly recommend this scent to those who want a fresh, summery scent without the usual cliches and baggage of most men's fragrances.
22 September 2008
Roberto Cavalli Black by Roberto Cavalli
This one flew underneath everybody's radar. I don't think it was ever released in the US. Anyway, I did manage to get a bottle for a good price, and I'm glad I did. If you tried other "black" scents, forget those pretenders to the throne of darkness and give this one a try. First of all, this bottle is cool! A strikingly dark black/purple hue illuminates a snake crawling around the bottle. In a different light, the bottle turns green. But how does it smell? Like a modern take on a club scent that is balanced and nuanced. The opening reveals a bamboo and spice mix that is very inviting. Tickles the nose a bit. Gentle yet very elegant. Towards the midnotes, the white pepper and geranium take this to a different dimension. There's a subtle lavender note in here that's hard to detect but it's there if you "look" for it. Slowly the sweet wood and musk notes take over for a finale. You'd think with white pepper, lavender and musk, this would be an in-your-face fragrance, but I'm here to say that the perfumer did an excellent job blending these notes that it remains present but not "too" present. I'd also go so far to say that the vibe here is towards a dark, gothic glow. I can see some parallels to Armani's Black Code, but this one is more interesting because of the different transitions it takes, especially in the midnotes. Nothing groundbreaking here but a superb scent when all is said and done.
27 August 2008
Paco Rabanne pour Homme by Paco Rabanne
On paper, this scent seems like a spice bomb waiting to go off. Yes, the opening is a herbaceous warhead loaded with lavender aimed straight for the nose. They could use this as smelling salts if needed. Inexplicably it settles down in a honey-tobacco brew of clove and geranium. Finishes off in a 70's motif to oak moss & musk. Dated yes, but man, this stuff this smells good without apology. For daring men of all ages. Use it wisely!
27 August 2008
L'Oranger Neroli by L'Occitane
Do you want to fall in love again? Well, let's start with saying that hands down the best Neroli scent if not one of the best scents ever! Nothing comes close. What is Neroli anyway? After doing some research, it's the flower on the orange blossom tree. I once heard that it takes over 100 neroli flowers to create this juice. Whether that's true or not is immaterial. The scent opens with a tremendous green leaf and floral note. Leads you into a lush, fragrant grove somewhere in the countryside in Provence or Tuscany. Never has a fragrance transported me to another place such as this. Rose gardens pale in comparison to the majestic beauty of this. Next, the intoxicating Neroli takes over in the heart. Now this is where it gets confusing. Is Neroli supposed to be this floral? I don't know but I've fallen in love. Truly, an anti-depressant if there ever was one. Joy to the nth degree, smiling like a sunny Saturday afternoon in the summertime. Perfection at the tip of your nose. Lasts for hours on end, senses satiated at last. Walks off in batch of vanilla/tonka but still the neroli/floral lingers like a pleasant memory. It should be noted that it's an EdP, and it lives up to its name, lasting for ages upon ages. And I must add, it is quite possibly the finest scent you will sniff in your lifetime. Be glad you did because this one is utterly and incomprehensively discontinued. Must all beauty be destroyed??? Beg, borrow and steal for this. It's worth it!!!!!
15 August 2008
Helmut Lang Men by Helmut Lang
So this is what happens when you mix baby oil and baby powder. Perfect scent for a baby but for a mature man? I don't think so.
29 July 2008
Richard James by Richard James
A smoother Gucci Envy for Men? A toned-down Burberry Brit for Men? If there is such a thing, this is it. Subtle, suave and utterly intriguing. They throw everything but the kitchen sink in this one and you expect disaster. Quite the opposite. To my nose, four notes dominate and captivate: ginger, rose, suede & sandalwood. A very green Ginger starts the show. Soft and elegant, done well here not unlike Burberry Brit for Men. Slowly morphs into a floral rose that's so subtle you can miss it if you're not careful. Rounds out into dusty and powdery suede/sandalwood finale. Regarding the powder, this is so well crafted you don't mind being done & dusted. Just leave the wig at home! Great in the cold but can work in the warmer temps. Perfect in a suit at the office. Feels British in a Michael Caine sort of way.
09 July 2008
Envy for Men by Gucci
A modern masculine classic if there ever was one. Takes the best aspects of Brut & Old Spice and takes it to the next stratosphere so that Dad can wear something new. One of the most versatile men's scents too. Perfect for the office or a night on the town. With a tie or an open button-down shirt, it's doesn't matter. Envy handles it all so superbly. Starts out with a spicy accord that's really hard to pinpoint one note though the coriander & pepper make their presence known. Glides into a heart of ginger and carnation that give it both a sweet and piney aura. Also, I'm reminded of those great 70's scents that used carnation & pine. This is also where it takes it beats loudly, never too sweet or too piney either. Casually saunters out of the room in a breeze of vetiver, sandalwood & vanilla. Timeless and ageless. Uplifting and bright, romantic and cordial. Thumbs through the roof on this one.
24 June 2008
M7 by Yves Saint Laurent
I never knew what Agarwood smelled like until I got this. Groundbreaking to use in modern designer scent. Didn't pay off for YSL as it went straight to the bargain bins. Anyway, the opening notes say that Bergamot, Mandarin & Rosemary. I detect none of them. It's as if it goes straight to the heart of Agarwood. Smells a bit like Listerine of days gone by. Bracing and hard to accept at first. Has a burnt quality as well. The Vetiver gives it a very earthy and tuberous-root feel. Somebody mentioned that there's mandrake root in here and I believe it. After about 30 minutes, it starts an ominous brown glow of musk & amber. Captivating, intriguing & smooth. Lasts for ages too. I will add that this scent is suitable only for Autumn & Winter nights.
26 May 2008
Opium pour Homme Eau d'Orient by Yves Saint Laurent
This review is for the 2007 version.
Finally, we reach the Orient. Created for Spring/Summer wearing, Orient is perhaps the most different from the other two. For its opening, the blackcurrant is replaced with grapefruit that adds a brighter hue that blends really well with the edgy star anise. Like the EdT, pepper and ginger are here but with added nutmeg which rounds off some of the orientalness found in the EdT. Now, the final stage is where Orient really stands out from the other two. Instead of vanilla, the base relies on a heady mix of vetiver and sandlewood with a dash of amber. It's dry, then sweet, then woody, then dry, then sweet, then woody all over again. Very distinct from the other two. I find the Orient works perfect in the heat unlike the other two which may have something to do with its lack of vanilla. Further, it is the most versatile of the 3 varieties as I could see wearing this in the colder months as well.
Finally, we reach the Orient. Created for Spring/Summer wearing, Orient is perhaps the most different from the other two. For its opening, the blackcurrant is replaced with grapefruit that adds a brighter hue that blends really well with the edgy star anise. Like the EdT, pepper and ginger are here but with added nutmeg which rounds off some of the orientalness found in the EdT. Now, the final stage is where Orient really stands out from the other two. Instead of vanilla, the base relies on a heady mix of vetiver and sandlewood with a dash of amber. It's dry, then sweet, then woody, then dry, then sweet, then woody all over again. Very distinct from the other two. I find the Orient works perfect in the heat unlike the other two which may have something to do with its lack of vanilla. Further, it is the most versatile of the 3 varieties as I could see wearing this in the colder months as well.
23 May 2008
Opium pour Homme Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent
The opening is a dark fruit hue that brings to mind prunes and raisins. It's says it blackcurrant but the blackcurrant I've come across never smelled this good. It's next phase enters into a deep vanilla/amber accord. Never overtly sweet or cloying, the accord lasts ages on end. Compared to the other two, the vanilla here is more rounded and smooth. There's also a lack of spice (pepper and star anise) that really stands the EdP apart from the other two. Definitely the most refined of the lot, it would be hard to wear this in any occasion other than a formal night out.
23 May 2008
Black Pepper by Molton Brown
I reckon that BP is the only fragrance where the body wash outsells the EdT. And for good reason. The elements that make the body wash so good are here in the EdT but not much more. And that’s the problem. The body wash is a jolt of sharp black pepper and rolling ginger. Stimulating? Yes! Memorable 30 minutes after a shower? No. But back to the fragrance, yes, there’s black pepper and ginger which hold your attention for 30 minutes like the body wash. But after that, the boredom sets in. It doesn’t evolve like advertised. Coriander & cumin? Nope. Violet Leaf & Slovenian Oak Moss? Nope. Either these notes are so muted by the ginger & pepper or they are simply not there. There are much better frags out there of this lineage (Joop! Roccoco & Gucci PH come to mind). Save your money for these guys. And get the body wash already!
19 May 2008
Boss Bottled by Hugo Boss
Thumbs up but barely. The opening is a synthetic blast of apple & bergamot. Smells somewhat overworked & overdone but it gets better. Suprise, clove and cinnamon come to rescue this sad-sack opening. Though the clove/cinnamon are not as epic & grand like Obsession for Men, this accord makes me forget the weak opening. Vanilla & tonka round this out with a touch of wood though it's hard to get a grip on what kind of wood as it's kind of blurry. Still, quite a safe bet for Dieter to wear to his first day at Siemens. Nice but it's Boss so lower thy expectations and proceed cautiously.
12 May 2008
CK In 2U Him by Calvin Klein
If you will indulge me a few moments, I'd like to profess my love for CKIN2U for Him. I know it's detested here, but I must digress from the negative tide and say it's got depth, originality & quality. It's fizzy citrus opening is balanced and original. As it warms, the soft and slightly powdery cocoa/pimento accord develops. This stage is where I fell in love. Is it a gourmand or an oriental? Or both? I don't know, but it smells like an fine dessert (maybe cannoli?) waiting to be eaten. This accord fades into a light woody with a touch of white musk finale. The longevity is good and the bottle is unique and easy to handle. I haven't been this enthralled with CK since Obsession for Men came out which is not to say it's a masterpiece like Obsession. It does however, have more going for it than 95% of frags released last year. And yes, I detest the "techo-sexual", "young boy on the prowl" marketing campaign. In the end, this one succeeds.
02 May 2008
Eau des Baux by L'Occitane
Finally, a scent made for a Templar Knight! When you’re battling with the forces of darkness, it pays to smell good. Seriously, this scent is phenomenal. It’s quite unlike anything that’s ever come before it. It opens with the a mysterious spicy glow of Cardamom & Pink Peppercorn. Almost fruity but never quite there. Next, the incense rises with the Cyprus like a vapor from a cistern waving in a cleric’s hand. The vanilla/tonka sweeten the base at the end to give the Templar a lesson from the orient. Will last long enough for the battle and on through the night. I am forever swept under its majestic glow.
02 May 2008
Présence by Mont Blanc
At first whiff, I was unable to detect notes that I was unfamilar with but I liked it. Then the minty, smooth notes started to develop, and I started to love it. t's a fresh, casual scent best suited for spring & summer. Reminds me Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male without the vanilla notes. Good alternative to aquatic scents.
18 April 2008
Diesel Zero Plus by Diesel
Imagine if you will a red balloon covered in talcum powder. It explodes and out bursts an airy mix of cinnamon, crushed anise & cloves. This is what Luten's Rousse wants to be. Too good to be relegated to the drugstore. Next time you're picking up aspirin & Q-Tips, do us a favor and pick up some 0+.
21 November 2007
Cuiron Pour Homme by Helmut Lang
Let me first say that this is not your father's leather scent. Nor is it your mother's. And it's not "English" or "Spanish". Cuiron exists without distinction or comparison. It can only be categorized as the best leather ever created, up there with the finest scents ever known to man. Happiness would be a window-less, poorly ventilated room with only a bottle of Cuiron to keep you company.
The scent opens with a dark plum and pepper that is neither fruity or sharp. Gradually, the leather starts to grab hold, like a leather glove on a cold day. Leather here is manly yet never overpowering. More of a new leather jacket smell than a worn one. But in reality, that jacket never smelled this good. Musk slowly creeps into the picture to finish off this potion. When it ends, don't be surprised to find yourself reaching for another spritz. This stuff is addictive. Don't say I didn't warn you!
The scent opens with a dark plum and pepper that is neither fruity or sharp. Gradually, the leather starts to grab hold, like a leather glove on a cold day. Leather here is manly yet never overpowering. More of a new leather jacket smell than a worn one. But in reality, that jacket never smelled this good. Musk slowly creeps into the picture to finish off this potion. When it ends, don't be surprised to find yourself reaching for another spritz. This stuff is addictive. Don't say I didn't warn you!
21 November 2007
H.M. by Hanae Mori
According to legend, Mr. Mori was hungry and asked for his assistant to bring him an ice cream sundae. His assistant brought this back (EdP) instead. Yes, it is an ode to the ice cream sundae complete with cherries, vanilla, and chocolate. Now, on paper, you'd think this would come off as some dimestore teenage girl fragrance. However, the perfumer has done a masterful job in mixing the ingrediants particularly the chocolate which is very subtle. Probably the creamiest fragrance out there. Lasts long past dinner time so you'll have something to nibble on before bed.
20 November 2007
Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent
Want to smell like a man? Not just any man, but one that evokes class, sophistication, intrigue, and sensuality. So difficult to answer. Fortunately, YSL via Tom Ford, asked this question and came up with the answer. The opening wafts in like a cool breeze across a hot asphalt. It's sweet (Bergamot) with some spice tones (Rosemary & Star Anise) thrown in to balance the sweetness. Grows heavier and deeper as the Clove and Lavender add that French barbershop vibe to the mix. Tries to escape out the back door in a delicious blaze of Patchouli & Wood (Gaiac) with a hint of Vetiver. Warm, inviting, and sensual. Turns men like Gomer Pyle into Alan Delon types. This is how I imagine what Serge Gainsbourg would smell like in his prime. Jane Birkin would've came back had Rive Gauche been around. It doesn't get any better than this, guys.
31 July 2007
Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein
Why did I ever do to deserve this divine gift in a honey-jar? Yes, it looks like honey but oddly enough, it does not have any honey notes in it. But the honey theme is carried out in it's refined and mellow sweetness. Soft as a feather, comforting like a pillow, the opening invites you fill your nose with mandarin and bergamot. Slowly, but surely, the cloves/spices appear to lead it in another direction. And for the finale, the vanilla, amber and musk add the warmth and sweetness. Lasts all day and into the night. Perfect for every season, never cloying, always right for any occasion. The perfect Oriental? Even Ghengis Khan would bow down to Obsession.
18 July 2007
Zino Davidoff by Davidoff
In a dream, it was Autumn and I was walking on moist leaves in a graveyard. It was night where the cool, crisp air hangs heavy in the moonlight. I came upon an open grave. Roses and white lilies were strewn near the tombstone. I knelt down to peer into the abyss and saw nothing but darkness. I noticed that the leather on my boots was wet with mud and earth. A wave of melancholy overtook me, and I looked up to read the name on the tombstone. It was mine...
30 June 2007
Séxual pour Homme by Michel Germain
I've admired this one for quite some time but never took the plunge until I saw a gift set on sale for $40. I've always laughed to myself about the name - Sexual? That's asking for trouble. It does take aim for the loins, but the question is whose loins is it going after? This is the one your mother warned you about.
This potion has an intoxicating opening. Heavy, deep and spicy. But not too spicy. I've yet to find the scent pyramid for this bad boy but Germain's website says it contains basil, sage and sandlewood in that order. All "Indian", as in Eastern Indian. Could this be the start of a new genre? Forget Oriental, this is Indian! I also detect tobacco, musk, and tonka bean. Whether they're from India is anyone's guess.
As the scent progresses, the spices stick around a long time before it turns slightly sweet and woody. Some have compared this to D&G Homme's drydown which I can see but Séxual's tobacco is more in the background.
Now back to those "aphrodisiac" qualities. I wore it out on a Saturday night with the girlfriend thinking if this doesn't light her fire, then what will? As the night progressed, her reaction was muted indifference. However, my reaction was of sensual bliss, and I could not stop smelling myself! Then it struck me, this potion does possess aphrodisiacs. Too bad it's you instead of those around you that fall under its spell.
This potion has an intoxicating opening. Heavy, deep and spicy. But not too spicy. I've yet to find the scent pyramid for this bad boy but Germain's website says it contains basil, sage and sandlewood in that order. All "Indian", as in Eastern Indian. Could this be the start of a new genre? Forget Oriental, this is Indian! I also detect tobacco, musk, and tonka bean. Whether they're from India is anyone's guess.
As the scent progresses, the spices stick around a long time before it turns slightly sweet and woody. Some have compared this to D&G Homme's drydown which I can see but Séxual's tobacco is more in the background.
Now back to those "aphrodisiac" qualities. I wore it out on a Saturday night with the girlfriend thinking if this doesn't light her fire, then what will? As the night progressed, her reaction was muted indifference. However, my reaction was of sensual bliss, and I could not stop smelling myself! Then it struck me, this potion does possess aphrodisiacs. Too bad it's you instead of those around you that fall under its spell.
23 March 2007
Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier
First of all, I should probably post this review in the women's discussion board. As a spokesman for all Metrosexual males everywhere, this juice isn't for us. Not even close. It's a ladies perfume at best and ice cream topping at worst. As a fan of really sweet concoctions such as Joop! Homme, Opium and even JPG #1; JPG #2 raises the "candy bar" even higher. This stuff will actually put pounds on you.
The drama starts off with a rather annoying & cloying bubblegum vapor. And when I say bubblegum, I'm talking Bubblicious. Grape to be exact. I haven't smelled this stuff since middle school. I believe that's the Amber talking. This bubblegum note lasts a rather long time as it's a EdP. And it's very feminine. I had to look under my shirt to make sure I didn't have breasts!
Once the bubblegum gets swallowed up by your skin, the vanilla takes over. Now I love the vanilla in JPG #1, but here is rather boring and staid. Smells exactly like the vanilla candles I picked up at Target for $5. I detect Tonka here too, but again it doesn't do much for me. I read there's some Musk in here, but I can't detect any. Musk would've added some dimension and depth to this juice, but it's pretty much two "annoying & cloying" notes: bubblegum and candles. I don't chew bubblegum anymore and I've got plenty of candles. Next!
The drama starts off with a rather annoying & cloying bubblegum vapor. And when I say bubblegum, I'm talking Bubblicious. Grape to be exact. I haven't smelled this stuff since middle school. I believe that's the Amber talking. This bubblegum note lasts a rather long time as it's a EdP. And it's very feminine. I had to look under my shirt to make sure I didn't have breasts!
Once the bubblegum gets swallowed up by your skin, the vanilla takes over. Now I love the vanilla in JPG #1, but here is rather boring and staid. Smells exactly like the vanilla candles I picked up at Target for $5. I detect Tonka here too, but again it doesn't do much for me. I read there's some Musk in here, but I can't detect any. Musk would've added some dimension and depth to this juice, but it's pretty much two "annoying & cloying" notes: bubblegum and candles. I don't chew bubblegum anymore and I've got plenty of candles. Next!
06 September 2006
Tangerine Vert by Miller Harris
This stuff is good. Really good. I don't care for fruit based scents, but the deep tangerine notes sweep you off your feet. Turns slightly sweet & green on the drydown. Has good longevity too. One of Miller's best!
27 July 2006
Bulgari Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari
Captures the salty sea scent better than any frag I've come across. Imagine the beach, not just any beach, but a beach off the coast of some Meditarean seaport where ships are pulling in their latest catch. Maybe Italy, maybe Greece. A slim, tall and dark-skinned woman saunters by in a white bikini with a cursive smile pursed on her lips and says in her best foreign voice, "You smell like heaven. What are you wearing?" You reply, "I'm not wearing anything, it's the sea you smell." She sighs and says, "They should bottle that and sell it like hotcakes." Then and only then will you understand Aqua de Bulgari pour Homme.
24 June 2006
Royal Delight by Creed
Kind of smells like Scotch tape! But that's not all that bad. More feminine than I like. May will give it another shot later.
03 May 2006
Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler
In my opinion, the greatest unisex scent ever made. CK One has nothing on this. It's not too feminine and certainly not too masculine. Everybody I know loves this stuff as it just screams freshness and cleanliness. The opening blast is a heady mix of green soap and grass. Kind of like a really good bar of soap if that makes any sense. The drydown evolves into a sweet and comforting glow of white musk and petit grain with a hint of orange. Bottle comes with both a splash applicator and an atomizer so you choose how to apply it. My only complaint is I wish it lasted longer. All in all, the great scent for spring & summer.
04 April 2006
Nightflight by Joop!
This is one of the first scents I ever bought. What initially attracted me was the flacon. It's meant to resemble a starry night. Elegant, regal, intriguing, inviting. And that's just the bottle! Now the juice inside. Opens with dark citrusey notes of pineapple & lemon. Very fresh opening. Refreshing to say the least. Slowly develops into a flowery scent. I read somewhere it has essence of night flowers in it. As the name suggests, it's mainly for nighttime use, and it will keep you refreshed all night. It's particularly good in the Spring/Summer. Fantastic scent to say the least.
31 March 2006
Gucci pour Homme by Gucci
First, let me say this scent is not for everyone. It can be defined as an aquired taste. I gave my father some of this for his birthday, and he had to give it back to me. At first whiff, I'm sure the first response will be, “It smells like a pencil sharpener from grade school!” This was my first response too. But once you overcome the initial shock, give it a few hours to settle in. Yes, the initial blast is peppery and woody. Some would say pungent. Did I mention it's woody? However, once things settle down, the ambery, leathery, and sweet notes start to appear. And that's when it hits you that this juice is fantastic. Good for nighttime and going out. Would never wear while the sun is still out. Lasts until dawn.
31 March 2006
Dior Homme by Christian Dior
In my opinion, one of the finest scents I've ever smelled. Very complex and subtle. Opens with a powdery burst of sweet and slightly smoky spices which I believe is Iris, Cocoa and Cardamom. Reminds me slightly of caramel too. Akin to walking into an exotic bakery. Slowly dries down to a sugary, leather note. Lasts all day. Bottle and atomizer are fantastic too. Bottle has some great straight lines and atomizer includes a metal tube that flows down through the flacon. Brilliant and unique!
30 March 2006
Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana
Probably one of the finest frags I own. Everyone I know loves it. Complex and unique -like me! I would describe it like an unlit cigarette in a walk-in humidor with lemons strewn on the ground. Drydown is phenomenal.
08 February 2006
Brit for Men by Burberry
Very sweet, somewhat feminine. Suprised Burberry puts this juice out given their conservative fashions (plaid?). I would describe it like a Gingerbread house built with a Tonka bean floor, roses for the ceiling and baby powder for the air conditioning.
08 February 2006
Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier
Suprised nobody's mentioned it, but this is clearly Gaultier's version of a French Vanilla scent. Not very original but... it's rather good though. And well executed too. A female friend used to wear French Vanilla by Dana and when I sampled this at Ulta, that's what it reminded me of. When I first bought it, I couldn't figure out how to open the tin can so I got out the can opener! The scent is pure unalterated vanilla. The sweetness is almost overpowering if applied too much. But just a little bit will lead you to vanilla heaven. The vanilla note pretty much kills the other notes but so what. Cedar? Amber? Cumin? Don't think so. It would be interesting if they would tone down the vanilla note and let the other notes perk up for a follow-up scent. Instead we have the awful Gaultier 2!
19 January 2006
Starwalker by Mont Blanc
I would describe it as "sweet with a spicy edge." Similar to Armani Black Code but more refined. One of the best scents of the year despite the poor name. Another quality release from the one of the best fragrance houses IMHO. When will Mont Blanc get the credit they deserve?
28 December 2005












