Reviews by Artisankey

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    Artisankey
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    Showing 1 to 6 of 6.
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    Aqaba by Miriam Mirani - Aqaba

    Aqaba seems energetic, kinetic, makes me think of bright, hot, desert days. I see spice markets under the brilliant sun, with striped, Berber weave blankets strung up like walls to keep out the blowing sand. Aqaba's color is bright, cherry-red. I find it strong, hot, spicy, and flowery. It gets me with its initial burst of all-out spice and while it takes some time to mellow on my skin, some days that burst of power is just what I want.

    Interestingly, Aqaba reminds me of Fendi's Asja- only Asja I see as a crystalline winter's eve. A storm has just passed and there is a fading salmon glow in the west as one, single star begins to peek out of the twilight. Inside, the rich browns of a leather sofa and the jewel-toned Oriental rugs are bathed in the soft glow of firelight. Asja's color is also red, but these are the deep tones of Bordeaux and the glowing coals of spent embers. While Asja's burst is still spicy, it mellows more quickly on me and has plumier tones.

    They are so similar on my skin, yet evoke such differently strong emotions- one is a sun-baked day, the other a glowing evening. Both are really quite delicious.

    04 January, 2006

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    Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    A Woody Oriental with plummy fruit notes, spices and of course loads of cedar wood- my most favorite wood. While it is on the dry side, it's not the driest fragrance I've ever encountered. The fruity/flowery notes give it a bit of moisture or roundness that blends the whole composition into a smooth olfactory experience. A gorgeous creation in a whole class of its own.

    04 January, 2006

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    No. 22 by Chanel

    Luscious, rich and heady, this is a va-va-voom white floral in my mind. I see this one as anything but light. It’s a head turner and I believe would be at home on the pulse points of any way-back-when bombshell. A perfect perfume for a party- it does have a bubbling, vivacious personality.

    On me, it opens sweet, floral and aldehydic, with the most gorgeous whiff of orange blossom. Then, it deepens into a true white floral with rose and jasmine and ylang-ylang along with a waxy/plastic note of tuberose. No 22 does have a smattering of brains behind its platinum pedigree though. Underneath the hedonistic whiz-bang there is a base of warm vanilla and a touch of vetiver that gives the florals a foundation to prance along on. I like it especially as it starts its drydown and a smooth, slumbering, powdery note begins to emerge.

    This perfume was created in 1922, around the same time that No 5 was created. However, I have read that it was held back and introduced to the world in 1928 to coincide with the introduction of Mademoiselle Chanel’s “White Look” line of fashion.

    18 October, 2005

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    Fracas by Robert Piguet

    I'll admit at first I didn't understand. Then, after one more reluctant try, I became smitten.

    Seriously, you have to worship tuberose and tuberose has to worship you. It is a clear, white floral medley touched with peachy accents and not a hint of powder. The wonderful dryout focuses around sandalwood, cedar, and gentle musk.

    On me it's soft, light, clean and uber-fem. It's the one I get the most positive comments on. The parfum has a slightly more animalic cast, but eventually dries the way the EdP does. I find it sensual and provocative and while I have heard others say how loud and brash it is, it doesn’t behave that way on my skin at all.

    There are definitely two camps for this one- love it or hate it. Try it more than once. Eventually you’ll know which camp you belong in.

    10th October, 2005

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    Jil Sander No. 4 by Jil Sander

    Jil Sander No 4 is one of the most unusual fragrances I feel I own. It has such a range of moods and while I don't wear it all the time I've worn it successfully in every season feeling that it's probably best in autumn and winter. It's also lovely on a rainy day when the humidity accentuates the "bloom" of the
    floral heart. I think of it as a very bold, strong fragrance. The EdP and parfum are similar enough with the parfum being richer and closer to the body. Just a few drops is really all you need. I find it romantic and elegant and plenty bewitching.

    I've seen it classed as a Floral Fruity and it does have fruit in the top notes, however, it's not the watery-light fruit of summer-time but the fruit of mulled ciders, red wines, peach cobblers and plumy puddings. As it moves into the heart it gets a bit brighter and begins to show its floralcy. Indeed, it is a riot of flowers with violet, rose, tuberose, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, carnation, and orange
    blossom. On me I tend to notice the orange blossom and jasmine, yet the overall effect is more like sitting in a temperate climate garden on a languidly humid evening. The notes are clear with not a hint of muting or powder and they pop out at you like jewel-toned roses against a dark, leafy backdrop. Then, No 4 softens and starts to darken. The moss begins to come out against the sandalwood. It
    gets drier, less flamboyantly floral and the spice of the carnation and pimento begin their exotic dance. Into the finale, the roses, jasmine and other flowers move to the background and settle into the skin, leaving a flowered base for the rest of the elegant dryout.

    You have to be a floral lover to truly appreciate this one. It also doesn't hurt to have a bit of an open mind as this one has been described as "avant-garde." While I'm not sure I'd go that far I feel it pushes the nose a bit and creates a very dramatic entrance.

    Notes I have for it:

    Top Notes: Light rose, geranium, peach, plum, galbanum. Heart Notes: Violets, jasmine, rose,
    tuberose, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, carnation, tarragon, myrrh, pimento. Base Notes: Grey ambergris, moss, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, musk.

    21st September, 2005

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    Quelques Fleurs L'Original by Houbigant

    Quelques Fleurs L'Original opens like eternal-springtime-in-a-bottle. It has a fresh, light, greenness that I never seem to grow tired of. As it matures it loses its green edge and becomes a sweet, fresh bouquet of early summer wild flowers. It's floral the way Joy is floral, yet where Joy becomes full-bodied and womanly, QqF retains the light flutter of innocence without being "too young." In fact QqF actually becomes quite sophisticated the more it dries down. While it does have the "triple threat" of rose, jasmine, and tuberose, I hardly find this perfume to be a heavy or cloying one.

    Ideal for any season, in the summer it holds its own against the heat and makes me feel a bit fresher while in the winter it remains the promise of springtime. Floral and feminine to the nth-degree, it has a coolness about it which I've always associated as being perfect for any setting- be it work or play. If you are a lover of florals this is one not to miss.

    18 September, 2005

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