Reviews by Mario Justiniani

    Showing 1 to 30 of 286.
    rating

    Sandalo by Lorenzo Villoresi

    It's now four hours since I first applied Sandalo. At first the opening was a bit sour and spicy. Then something else crept through which wasn't incense or sandalwood but i wish it would have been.

    I remembered thinking, by way of contrast, how much better MPG Santal Noble was--but that was in 2005 and I've heard it's been reformulated into a watered down shadow of its former self.
    Some two hours later I was driving my, as pluran would say, female companion; when she tactfully observed : ' You smell like F****** Onions! My God that's GROSS! Open the windows! "
    I remembered thinking, by way of contrast, how much I missed my cats.

    Be that as it may, I'm 100% in agreement with Off-Center here. Where the hell is the sandalwood, anyway?

    Not Lorenzo's finest hour.

    18th November, 2011.

    rating

    Serge Noire by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Sacré bleu, Serge!
    Why did you market this horror?

    The top notes are almost passable, insofar as they don't contain the trademark Lutens fruitcake accord, but soon enough it develops into something that redefines noire in French as "Yuck!" instead of black, ne'st-ce pas?

    Some reviewers mentioned clove. If so it's perverted beyond recognition. I can, on occasion, enjoy a well made powerhouse clove bomb like Jacomo de Jacomo ( 1980's of course) but what's going on here? Perhaps ashes of clove mixed with something putrid.

    Well, it's not the worst frag of all time; that dubious honor belongs to Insensé Ultramarine by Givenchy but perhaps among the three worst niche scents, ever.

    Will I ever find Lutens I like besides the " hippie oil " (Luca Turin's phrase) of the barbarically sensual Muscs Koublaï Khän?

    By now, I doubt it.

    25th April, 2011.

    rating

    Aventus by Creed

    The opening is tart and mellow with a pineapple note. Neither overly citric nor fruity sweet, just mellow.

    After a couple of hours or so, all this turns to leather!

    OK, leather notes not listed. So either I've been smoking stuff I can't spell again or "dry birch " a component of many leather scents kicks in.

    Perhaps kicking the door down would be a better metaphor.
    If you're not expecting it, the transition into the middle and base notes is quite dramatic.
    Who'd have thunk we'd end up here? A completely different scent from the top notes??

    The rest of the frag is reminiscent to Truefitt & Hill's Spanish Leather.

    Aventus is a well made masculine frag that some will love as a signature scent with an impressive pyramid note switcharoo, great longevity and, as previously noted, an outrageous price tag.

    But it might be worth it . . .

    23rd April, 2011. (Last Edited: 15th August, 2011.)

    rating

    Caron Pour Un Homme by Caron

    This is a good one to give to anyone who says there's no difference between masculine and feminine scents. Come to think of it, it's a good one to give to anyone who says there is a difference between masculine and feminine scents. It'll annoy both groups, especially if you don't tell them the name of the frag.

    OK, bottom line. Women can absolutely wear this, especially if they intend to have triplets and name them Lavender, Rosemary and Vanilla

    ( Amber should not be discounted, either)

    Perhaps this would work on men if it were EDC strength and intended for aftershave but it's just too sweet for me. I'd rather wear the non-classical barbershop 'The Baron '---Is it better?
    No. but for the price . . .

    Why not a thumbs down? Something fairly decent happens during the middle notes--but I can't wait that long. However it is a refined 1934 classic that is still in production. Another one for Bertie Wooster--and Jeeves would only caution him against overspraying

    14th March, 2011.

    rating

    Polo by Ralph Lauren

    Well, this is the kind of fragrance that will convince your GF that only gay men have any taste for scents, whereupon she will proceed to ban 80's Powerhouse Fragrances from your wardrobe--

    ( Good news: she might get you Caron PH for your birthday. Bad news: it could be Le Male instead )

    Yes, I know Polo was created in '78, not the 80's --The same year Azzaro made its debut and also heralded the Oakmoss Decade To Be.

    For the most part I love the powerhouses--even if I do get more female compliments with Creed Himalaya---but there are some that I loathe, considering them a caricature of masculinity.

    This is not one of them--but classic or not it ain't Macassar, Versace L'Homme (original) Lowe Para Hombre, or other coniferous kick ass greens.

    I like the opening. If Tuscany Etruscan is a left hook to the jaw, Polo is a Karate master's open palm-heel strike to the nose, sending your septum crashing up into the brain.

    However after a while it's bad ass leather. Or perhaps bad leather? A bit too discordant with the notes. Is it dated? Yes, after the first 15 minutes until it settles to drydown hours later.

    Why not a thumbs down? Well the notes are discordant ( for a masterpiece of harmony in leather check out Dunhill '34) but they're really quite interesting in a Republican / Oedipal sort of way.

    What the hell, you might pick up some perverted chick that's into Bandit

    7th March, 2011.

    rating

    Escada Homme by Escada

    Well, with this neutral verdict it still remains one (or perhaps the only one) of all fragrances with over 50 reviews without a single thumbs down. Escada deserves it. Yes, the opening is fantastic, it's fairly well blended and I'm glad many of you love it so much--I can find no " fault " with it but I chuckle at narcus's comment that he keeps forgetting that he has it in his wardrobe and Off-Scenter's that while it's more bland than Habit Rouge, and other oriental classics, it does have more character than Armani Code.
    Yes, it's a middle of the road scent--but I've bought enough 3-4 star scents that I've no intention of purchasing again. Been there, done that.

    24th May, 2010.

    rating

    D&G Masculine by Dolce & Gabbana

    I don't understand the negative comments either, except that it's made by D & G ( NOT the most innovative, groundbreaking house in existence) and it's marketed at teenagers.

    So? I'd put this ahead of Dunhill Edition.

    No, it's not Bois de Cedrat by Creed, which I admire, costs three times as much--and is far more linear. D & G Masculine has a lot going on with its 10,000 top middle and base notes :) Really, it's rather interesting and manages to blend the notes quite well.
    Yes, an upbeat and cheerful summer scent with good longevity and fair sillage.
    So while in the "lemon citrus under the hot sun category" I'd prefer Iskander, or Selection Verte Let's give credit where credit is due.
    For me? 4 stars out of 5.--Which ain't too shabby . . .

    24th May, 2010.

    rating

    Navegar by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    What's the point? DULLAH nailed it. Yes, it's not " green. The frankincense note is pale and outstanding. A great and unusual fresh scent, indeed.
    BUT
    Longevity is poor and sillage is laughable. Hence only a neutral rating.
    Wake me up if this ever comes up in EDP, it'll be worth it.

    16th February, 2010. (Last Edited: 10th March, 2010.)

    rating

    Back to Black by By Kilian

    I fear I must concur with Marcelle. " The overall effect is girly,powdery and sweet."
    One day another king will come and Excalibur shall rise out of the waters of The Lady of The Lake, but until then, those of us who want pipe tobacco scents are in the midst of a famine.
    There's Tom Ford's overpriced and underdone Tobacco Vanille.
    And then?

    17th January, 2010.

    rating

    Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Drats! PigeonMudrerer said it all.
    One of the few Lutens that does not overwhelm with his ubiquitous fruitcake accord. Yes, there's a bit of honey at the start but I was braced for it, so it didn't seem that strong of a note.
    Do I get a pardon from the niche police?

    7th January, 2010. (Last Edited: 8th March, 2010.)

    rating

    Tabac Aurea by Sonoma Scent Studio

    My thanks to Somerville Metro Man for answering my question for a frag that captures dry dark pipe tobacco. He didn't say this was it, but it sounded interesting enough, and I've liked some of the Sonoma offerings before to warrant a try.

    Yes, it's the smell of cured tobacco leaves being dried in the sun. Not quite my thing, though the frag is wonderfully well constructed and delivers what it promises. I can't help but compare Ford's overpriced Tobacco Vanlle to this one. TV just doesn't deliver the goods. This one does.

    14th December, 2009.

    rating

    Salt Air by Demeter Fragrance Library

    What Taolady said :)
    This might be the poor man's Erolfa but at least sea breezes are not required, it's a fun and uplifting scent--another black mark against you Happy!---This will make you happier than Happy.

    Great good morning frag.

    14th December, 2009.

    rating

    Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

    Do you love the smell of unsmoked dark vanilla pipe tobacco?
    So do I, and this ain't it.
    I'm not sure if I agree most with Asha's description of lovely spiced cookie dough or Stereotomy''s vanilla scented candle, but I understand the thumbs up from both reviewers and if i ever wish to smell like either description, I know where to find it.
    There are high quality tobacco scents that convey precisely what they're aiming for ( dry leaves being cured in Tabac Auera for example) but as for the scent of an unsmoked dark vanilla pipe tobacco, I give up!

    In a book of Japanese incense, whose name I can't for the life of me remember, the author mentioned the custom in ancient Japan of wearing a satchel or pouch of wood shavings of Kyara or Sandalwood in the inside pocket of a kimono--or was it a neck pouch? Those crazy samurai!

    Unless someone suggests an alternative, this may be the only way to go for the scent. Stop at your friendly tobacconist's shop.

    14th December, 2009.

    rating

    Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    A dizzy and inebriating fragrance. Wearable for a man due to its subtle construction. Don't ask me how it can have great longevity, sillage, opulence and still be subtle.
    Contact mastermind Dominique Ropion and ask him.

    Nevertheless, I think this works far, far better on a woman.

    Unless of course you're an androgynous rock star---see my review of Fracas.

    Did i mention that I like tuberose?

    14th December, 2009.

    rating

    Infusion by Bombay Sapphire

    Make it 8 positive reviews!
    Yes it does smell exactly like Bombay Sapphire Gin.
    What a great idea for the summer, most refreshing.
    Just hope you don't get pulled over by a cop :)

    14th December, 2009. (Last Edited: 9th February, 2010.)

    rating

    Eau des 4 Voleurs by L'Occitane

    Much as I dislike Pino Silvestre (an herbal pine growing in the molds of a dungeon) I'm with Odysseum on this one. I would not only say it's more complex, warmer and woodier that Pino. I'd go further and say it's Pino exorcised of evil spirits.

    Yet that's only a small part of what makes this frag so good. The progression from the citrus to the lavender to the herbs to the woods. Wow!
    No one can accuse this of being linear. I'd say it's a prime example of a Pyramid moving wonderfully from note to note.

    14th December, 2009. (Last Edited: 8th March, 2010.)

    rating

    Bay Rum by Burt's Bees

    Holy Pimenta Racemosa!

    Yes. There really is a West Indies Bay Tree and that's where Bay Rum comes from, not storks.

    The added spices; cinnamon, clove, lime or whatever serve to make it interesting--or just plain weird.

    Like CJ I wanted to like this one too but the clove/spices are set to overkill

    I tried 2 bottles from the shelf. It was obvious one had been there longer than it should have, but both smelled . . .
    It feels as if one is being uncivil by giving a bad review to a discontinued fragrance, rather like speaking ill of the dead, but you didn't have to scramble to wash this crap off your hands.
    And I do like Bay Rum.

    14th August, 2009.

    rating

    Virgin Island Water by Creed

    I'm afraid I have to turn in a verdict of a tropical yawn.
    There are far better Creeds along the aquatic theme.

    5th August, 2009.

    rating

    Santa Fe for Men by Aladdin Fragrances

    Hey! I forgot I used to own this. You know, for the money it's better than Ferrari Black.
    If it's a clone of The 3rd Man, it's more wearable.

    5th August, 2009.

    rating

    Cyprès-Musc by Creed

    Oh no!
    Another posted review lost in cyberspace
    It's becoming tedious . . .
    So let me confine my comments to:
    It rocks!
    Buy it.

    5th August, 2009.

    rating

    Royal Delight by Creed

    Sweet syrup? It's time for a revolution.

    5th August, 2009.

    rating

    Aromatic Lime by Montale

    Not bad.
    It's not lime.
    And It's not aromatic.
    However, It is Montale.
    Wake me up when it's on sale at Marshall's for $1.75
    On second thought, don't bother.

    4th August, 2009.

    rating

    Dior Homme by Christian Dior

    Hm . . .too powdery and sweet though I'm unsure whether the aforementioned "lipstick" or "make-up bag" is the better adjective. Some women will undoubtedly find this romantic on a man they love, though I suspect most would probably enjoy it more on themselves. Class act if you like Iris.
    I think this should have been a signature scent for Lauren Bacall back in the 40's

    2nd August, 2009.

    rating

    Frankincense & Myrrh by Czech & Speake

    Well, I'm not sure if I should embalm or annoint someone with the myrrh but then I can't say I spot a myrrh note. Let's be honest, I wouldn't know a myrrh note if it punched me on the nose. I do recognize frankincense but I don't smell it here, except in minute quanities towards drydown. Did someone forget the gold? Never mind. C&S have come up with No.88, Cuba and Neroli; so it's forgivable if some mad scientist in tweeds working for this venerable house comes up with a weird one now and then. This one can be fun, if you're also fond of strange experiments. Not bad smelling by any means, just um . . .Anglo avante-garde? I tend to picture Bertie Wooster wearing it, despite Jeeves' misgivings.

    7th May, 2009. (Last Edited: 7th March, 2011.)

    rating

    Attar by Montale

    The opening of this rose scent has been described as medicinal and sharp, which is true enough, though I would add boozey as well.
    This is one drunk rose. Odd to think of booze and roses together, but there it is. The sandalwood gives it depth, and I'm in agreement with Pigeon Murderer that this definitely leans toward the feminine side.
    Montale is full of surprises, isn't it?

    29th April, 2009.

    rating

    Dark Rose by Czech & Speake

    This one's for Julie in Truffaut's adaptation of ' The Bride Wore Black ' as she goes from one revenge murder to the next. Not bad for Morticia Addams either, or for any sophisticated woman that's into Madame Butterfly or, for a shorter and more upbeat piece of music, Siegfried's Funeral March. Young goth Suicide Girls must not be ignored, either.
    If this sounds much too sarcastic, permit me to be the first to acknowledge that this is really a well blended 'semi-oud' scent---as previously pointed out by these excellent reviewers. An acquired taste indeed, but objectively: It's a YES.

    29th April, 2009.

    rating

    Rose by Czech & Speake

    Well, it does smell like a rose.
    Moreover, it's not synthetic-cheap, good quality though completely linear.
    A good Mother's Day present, I think.
    Is there a Grandmother's Day?

    29th April, 2009.

    rating

    Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake

    A sharp grapefruit opening, about one minute of peace and calm, then a civet note kicks in to make it more surly or intimidating than most grapefruits frags. Best comment? It's better made than Memorie d'Homme by Ricci. Worst comment? It's not intimidating, just mildly annoying. Pass.

    29th April, 2009.

    rating

    Higher by Christian Dior

    A fruity three star scent which according to 'The Basenotes Says' info is:

    "The latest male launch from Dior, 4 years on from Dune for Men. Desgned (sic) for the youth market,

    ( My guess is 15 year olds--or former users Aqua di Gio which really amounts to the same thing )

    this is very fresh

    ( What! The young are buying fresh scents at the mall? Stop the presses!)

    and has an eye catching bottle."

    Still, I'd like to give it a thumbs up for ebullience ( um--did I spell that right?) it reminds me of Clinique Happy, Quasar and Paco's XS, only with pears. I'd like to but . . .

    28th April, 2009. (Last Edited: 6th April, 2011.)

    rating

    Amber Absolute by Tom Ford

    Maple syrup? No, wait. That's Miracle Homme. What we have here is an odd duck of an amber with a funky herbal/wood harsh note that makes one wonder if it was intended to make it 'dirty' in the sense that MKK is a'dirty' musk. Or perhaps it's just meant to erase any accusations of being cloying? I don't know but this is sugar sweet and --Naw, not dark. Not amber noire, just amber . . . funky. On the brighter side, no one can accuse this one of having low sillage or poor longevity.
    I'll pass.

    28th April, 2009.

    Showing 1 to 30 of 286.

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