Fragrance Reviews by Mario Justiniani

Holy Pimenta Racemosa!

Yes. There really is a West Indies Bay Tree and that's where Bay Rum comes from, not storks.

The added spices; cinnamon, clove, lime or whatever serve to make it interesting--or just plain weird.

Like CJ I wanted to like this one too but the clove/spices are set to overkill

I tried 2 bottles from the shelf. It was obvious one had been there longer than it should have, but both smelled . . .
It feels as if one is being uncivil by giving a bad review to a discontinued fragrance, rather like speaking ill of the dead, but you didn't have to scramble to wash this crap off your hands.
And I do like Bay Rum.

Oh no!
Another posted review lost in cyberspace
It's becoming tedious . . .
So let me confine my comments to:
It rocks!
Buy it.

For those who care here are the notes:

Top: Bergamot oil, Coriander, Cypress, Green Note, Lavender, Lemon, Mandarin, Pepper.

Heart: Bay oil, Cinnamon, Jasmin, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Rose.

Base: Amber, Cedar, Cistus oil, Musk, Patchouli, Sandal, Styrax, Tonka.

I'm a fan of Orientals esp woods, and this--while not my all time favorite--was money well spent.

Only one spoiler but it's important. This is close to Zino and, imho, Zino is better.

I'm afraid I have to turn in a verdict of a tropical yawn.
There are far better Creeds along the aquatic theme.

Sweet syrup? It's time for a revolution.

" Water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink "

Well, here's a pleasant surprise!
Both for The Ancient Mariner, and for all of us that have fallen asleep at the million and one aqua snoozefests that have infected most fragrance counters at department stores for the last 20 years.

An aqua scent that is both refreshing and complex? Wow! Citrus, aqua, and woods blended and balanced? Who'd have thunk it possible?

If you want a light and relaxing, yet unique summer scent that will stand out from the crowd look no further.

Aquatic fruits and floral. Strong sillage and longevity. Over hyped and overpraised.
A mega-hit with the kinder that have moved up from Curve, as well it should be.
Bottom line? If you like Acqua di Gio you'll probably like this one.
I yawn in your general direction.

Well, I've got good news and bad. The good news is that this is a splendid pine fragrance with mint and spices serving to enhance the scent. The bad news is that the entire show will be missed by any human being that is not next to your skin. So unless you plan to make love in the forest, or to constantly sniff your own wrist, or skip humans altogether and give your bloodhound a treat, this frag can be somewhat frustrating. Sillage sucks.

Longevity is poor.
No it's not as poor as, say, Eau d'Orange Verte ( What is?) But it's undetectable after an hour, unless you have a vivid imagination, or a great memory.

Having said all that, if you owe either bloodhounds or humans amends by having worn synthetic junk--like Pino Silvestre---Epicea truly has THE natural forest feel. I suggest huge bottles. Bathe in the stuff if you can afford it!
Surreptitiously reapply throughout the day and enjoy a magic Winterland. Cheers.

Hey! I forgot I used to own this. You know, for the money it's better than Ferrari Black.
If it's a clone of The 3rd Man, it's more wearable.

Not bad.
It's not lime.
And It's not aromatic.
However, It is Montale.
Wake me up when it's on sale at Marshall's for $1.75
On second thought, don't bother.

Somewhere between a funeral home, a rose garden and The Sahara.

This juice is Solemn with a capital S. I do not know if the 'masculine' feel comes from the dryness, or the medicinal, almost barbershop scent.

It's odd that we smell roses at all, since it has none. More rose than Egoiste, which does.

Why not a thumbs up? Objectively it deserves it but I've come to the conclusion that, with notable exceptions, I don't really care for herbal scents. And medicinal-herbal still less

My best friend kept ribbing me that he got more female compliments with this than with any other cologne. He figured it had to do with their wanting to sit on daddy's lap. (Daddy? Try grandpa.) I figured how wrong could I go for a couple of bucks? Besides I probably owned it 30 years ago along with Chaps and Aramis.

(Sorry doctor, I have no recollection of Brut or Acqua Velva)

Well, now I know why I haven't bought it in 30 years, I'll give it to him as a present.

No disrespect intended against your fathers, grandfathers, great-grandfathers, Confucius and all your honorable ancestors, but I can't stand this juice.

I find it overbearing, gross and powdery.
Masculine?
Well, only in the sense of 'pertaining to men.'
If one were to make a fragrance of the scent of Gillette's cheapest shaving cream and bottle it, it too, would be 'masculine' by that definition.

Longing for the virile good old days? Give me Bay Rum over this anytime.

Incidentally, this reputedly came out as a WOMAN'S fragrance in 1937, bombed and was re packaged for men the next year. I did not know this tidbit before trying it, but it's part of the interesting trivia one finds here at Basenotes.

Good Lord!
Imagine 30 years from now the hot babes going for the " masculine" A*Men or Le Male because it reminds them of dear old grandpa! The mind boggles. . .

Unquestionably there's a charm in the lunacy of the entire CdG line, the 21st century's equivalent to Santa Maria Novella's old world weirdness.
Like SMN with Peau D'Espagna or Nostalgia, CDG hits a winner once in a while among all its cutesy avant garde offerings, and this is one of them.

Meditative? High Mass? Nicole Kidman in a Catholic schoolgirl's uniform slowly stripp--never mind.

(As a theological experiment you might want to wear this one on your right shoulder and Salvador Dali PH on your left. See if a little angel and a little demon perch upon them.)

Well, if nothing else you'll finally be able to answer the perennial question posed by unsympathetic acquaintances: " Why you spend so much money on fragrances? " With the honest reply: " Because I'm insane--but have far better taste than you ever will."

Now go ring the bells at Notre Dame and save the poor innocent gypsy girl . . .

This feels a bit like that other Juniper Berry babe magnet, Mont Blanc Individuel.

Neither is groundbreaking but both are fun and cheerful and both can be classed as office wear.

IF you work in a Frank Lloyd Wright building and run a supermodel agency.

Comparisons to Himalaya by Creed?
Himalaya's better, pay the extra dough.
Cheers.

Sorry to be a naysayer on this one, but the best I can say is that I found it somewhat less boring than Dunhill Edition. There are finer citrus frags. There are finer " gentlemen " frags. Jacques Polge may deserve The Nobel Prize for chemistry but this one's unspectacular. I won't compare it to the original Chanel PM which so many of you assure me is the last word in elegance, since I haven't had the pleasure. Reading the notes it appears that the concentree version has a vanilla base, for whatever that's worth

Hm . . .too powdery and sweet though I'm unsure whether the aforementioned "lipstick" or "make-up bag" is the better adjective. Some women will undoubtedly find this romantic on a man they love, though I suspect most would probably enjoy it more on themselves. Class act if you like Iris.
I think this should have been a signature scent for Lauren Bacall back in the 40's

I like this but I don't love it to the extreme so many of you do. Its virtues are many, esp its lightness which starts right at the opening, and continues to the almost everlasting drydown. Yes, it's a sophisticated, boardroom scent but it lacks the aggressive, masculine feel of Vintage Tabarome, or---to leave Creeds altogether and step out into the outdoors--Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet.
I can't help but wonder if Churchill would have considered BdP a bit of a ligtweight

This is an 80's frag --the time when fougere, chypre and woods ruled male perfumery as the ubiquitous aquatics do today. It was Drakkar Noir country, --the woods were closing in on all sides as oakmoss battled fern. In this scenario, BdP was a safe and refined alternative with well blended notes of cedarwood, sandalwood, and vetiver (The same combo the GIT uses today, btw minus the oriental/woods)

Bless all BdP fanatics, but for me, it's 4 a star scent at most

The soapiest vetiver I've ever smelled. Some will find it quite interesting, however whenever I wore this I felt that I was about to turn into a comic book character that burped soap bubbles.

If you're a fan of barbershop scents, this may be a true love. Try it.
I'll pass. For me, VH feels like a subtle but unfinished version of Guerlian.

Whenever I smell this I wonder what sin did this woman perpetrate to cause her to atone by wearing floral cleansing fluid?

Lady Macbeth, are you fresh and energized yet?

Yes, I also remember getting compliments on this when it first came out, but what the hell, I was a hunk.

I also remember liking the original Aramis better--which I now equate with lava lamps.

Not a bad juice by any means, but no match for the greatness of the discontinued Havana.

Aramis, what have you done?

Both reviewers mention tobacco but there's no mention of it in the pyramid note. Neither is there a mention of rum, but it's there as well. I'll bet you a mojito, along with a Cohiba.

Wonderfully warm, charming and effortlessly elegant. This is one smooth and mellow juice.

Unisex? Well, in the sense that the 'male' Egoiste could be worn by both men and women--provided they have good taste--the answer is yes, it works.

Why are there no more reviews? Because it's expensive and very hard to get, esp. in the U.S.
To my mind, this is what Idole de Lubin tries to accomplish, but here the idea is executed far better--with panache and with subtlety.
Well done.

MonkeyManMatt was being far too kind. This is Nicheiosity to the max. Should have been in an old Ab/Fab episode:

Edina: " Do you like it? "
Patsy: " Er . . .Who made it? "
Edina: " Amouage "
Patsy: " It's fabulous, darling. "

Yuck!

Evening wear.
The ultimate non-adolescent scent.
Women miss this; like they miss masculinity, elegance, and wit. What more can one say?
It has a slight touch of tragedy, it conjures up past loves, moonlit nights. Romance. The bravery to approach beautiful women. Quiet confidence. Self worth.
No, you don't have to be tall dark and handsome to wear this--though if you are, and are using another frag, you're making a mistake.

Masterful.

" Pray continue your most interesting narrative, Watson "

" But Holmes! How on earth am I to make sense of a fragrance that is launched two years after its namesake, and yet has the audacity to call itself 'vintage'? "

At this the great detective judicioulsy applied a small amount of Oliver Creed's Vintage Tabarome, lit his pipe, injected cocaine, and began to play his violin.

" Elementary, my dear fellow. These Americans have released this brown bottle for the benefit of young puppies who have hitherto applied the somewhat brash--not to say vulgar-- original J.V. with devastating effect upon the fairer sex, luring many an innocent serving girl to her ruin. "

I rose to my feet in horror. " But Holmes, this is monstrous! If they have, as you claim, practiced such villainies by way of the intoxicating nature of J.V. then what possible motive could they have by introducing a 'vintage' variant? "

My friend cut me of with a wave of the hand. " They have grown greedier, Watson. They are no longer content with mere seduction. They have added tobacco and toned down some of the more obvious puerile notes. Their motive is to regard themselves as sophisticated, well to do, mature and respectable whilst pursuing their sordid affairs."

Holmes exhaled a weary sigh. " Watson, they wish to regard themselves as gentlemen. "

Yes, it's a superb masterpiece.

However, if it were in production and readily available some twit might refer to it as " an old man's juice. " No, I'm not kidding; it's uber-elegant and to noses raised on the anorexic 90's aquas--to use Luca Turin's phrase--let alone today's androgynous unisex frags, it might feel ancient. Ditto Dunhill 34, Versaille PH, Richard James etc.

On second thought I should not say "etc"--what other aristocratic masterpieces come to mind?

I wish to high heaven it would be in production, it would be a small price to pay.

The full pyramid according to Scent Direct (Thank you, Naed) includes the following notes not mentioned here:

Origanum and Petigrain in the top. (hot pepper?)

Middle ones of Carnation, Cinnamon, Geranium, Hay, Jasmin, Sandal and Pine Needle.

Base of Leather, Amber, Castoreum, Olibanum,Tonka and Vanilla.

A sublime balancing act. Sorry to be simply 'part of the chorus', but I'm in great company here.

It doesn't get better.

The most interesting Bay Rum/Tobacco you're likely to find. Come to think of it, perhaps the only--

Well, be that as it may, do NOT make the mistake of supposing that we only praise it to the sky because it's a hard to find, discontinued frag.

The drydown, as previously noted, is truly superb. The notes begin to harmonize and we've soon got a Cuban melody of the first order. Makes me want to listen to an old Ernesto Lecuona love song while eating picadillo and sipping a mojito. Light, sparkling, and seductive Caribbean charm all the way.

How odd that this most floral of men's fragrances does not have a flower note at the heart!
Golf bottle? Hm.
Perhaps an aperitif bottle with a label showing Hercule Poirot sipping amaretto instead of creme de menthe would have been more appropiate . . .
I offer no further comment, since Naed_Nitram's review is so close to perfection, I doubt anyone one could improve upon it.

What a sleeper this one is!

Vetiver + Incense = Aquatic?

Perhaps it is the salty/citrus note. I don't know. I do know this is an unusual, well crafted, summer scent.
However, months after discovering Vettiveru, I find Annick Goutal's Vetiver similar and more wearable.
The 'weird' mid note in Vettiveru (cedar? sundry ozonic attempts?) now turn me off.
But objectively, it's a thumbs up

For a clean and fresh scent, hey! It's actually not boring. At least it's more interesting than Gendarme, let alone the likes of Z by Zegna, Armani and the other 1001 'fresh unisex' designer mall scents. It's neither aquatic nor fruity nor is the opening poignantly irritating; no tear gas lemons here. Still,there are far better ones (oh let's see: Versace's L'Homme, Loewe para Hombre, and Signoricci, offhand)
Comparisons to Creed's Original Vetiver I find a little odd, and a poor selling point. O.V. is simply better.

Drakkar Noir disguised as the Scarlet Pimpernel. Or is it the other way around? It's a Foppish powerhouse scent. Yes, I know, another 'Wow what a contradiction' review.
Allright, mate. You figure this one out!
One of these days I'll understand the army of thumbs up for Bois du Portugal, Tam Dao and this one. Scents which I find to be OK, but no great shakes. Then I shall attain satori, or write a book like Luca . . .

An amber aquatic, which is not quite a contradiction in terms; Laguna is 'pond' is Spanish. Not salty sea breezes but a calming, exotic, and tropical scent. OK it's not THAT great but it beats the hell out of Prada. Feels as if you're lying down on a hammock between coconut trees on a lazy afternoon. It's Tahiti time. Alas, nubile island girls serving Mai Tais, not included.

This is Le Male with diabetes. Can't stand either, but at least this one's cheaper.

Hang Ho Hang! Truth be told it is not a bad scent, just mediocre. One big yawn.

If you ever wondered what The British thought an upper-class dandy's scent should smell like in 1872, this is it.

Dr. Turin's book put me off trying it for a while, since it stated that the original ingredients must have been superb, implying that this is at best a second rate copy. However I turned a few pages and read that he said the same thing about Blenheim Bouquet, which I had already tried and loved.

I figured if it was as "bad" as the modern rendition of Blenheim, I could live with that.

Someone posted this is the opposite of Blenheim. True. Blenheim has a rugged, masculine, almost adversarial quality to it.

On the other hand, Hamman could have been a signature scent for Oscar Wilde. I wonder if he ever wore it? Did Whistler make fun of him? did Lillie Langtree console him? We might never know . . .

Upon first sniff I got a blast of lavender and then the rose kicked in. Yes, there are other notes, but to my nose those are the more prominent ones. It's a bit powdery but that's no cause for dismay.

I feel as if this scent should have been invented a hundred years earlier. The villainous fop Cunningham (Tim Roth) in Rob Roy would have worn it in his dueling scenes. Though I suspect he'd have it sprayed on his handkerchief, not on himself.

So if you're ready to say " I am your Grace's humble servant " as you bow ceremoniously prior to drawing your rapier and humiliating a burly broadsword wielding opponent, this may be your signature scent as well.

I strongly disagree with Teflondog!
If I close my eyes I can smell a bit of boring basil along with the boring lemons.
Otherwise I agree with every word he said . . .

This smells like the kind of soap I would expect THING to hand to me in The Addams Family bathroom. Or find in a Greek prison.

However, according to the positive reviews it would appear that if I simply don't shower for a few weeks, spritz Kourus on very sparingly, and wait 5 hours before I leave the house, then the drydown combined with my own body odor will be da bomb.

I'll take your word for it.

It smells like a bottle of Tabasco sauce which has been spilled over an ancient leather bound book. This one is a head turner, especially in today's bland aquatic world

The impossibly lovely girl across the room meets your eyes, gets up, and walks right into you arms. You hit all the lottery numbers. Win an Oscar. Receive the highest military award for bravery.
Yes, I know I'm not giving you any of the notes--others have done that quite well--suffice it to say you'll garner compliments all day long while feeling like a soaking wet Gene Kelly in "Singing in the Rain."

Himalaya?
It's like tap dancing in heaven.

However, should you end up in the other place, not to worry. Himalaya works wonders in hot weather as well.

Hey, what happened to my last review? Was it deleted in cyberspace due to references of Tarzan and Jane doing the wild thing while wearing MKK in their jungle treehouse?

( I hope I didn't suggest Cheeta for a menage a trois )

Say, has anyone thus far mentioned that this is a 'dirty' musk which comes off as animalistic, sexy and sweaty?

I'm not a fan of the BN adored SL, but this is the exception.

Well, as the philosopher said:
You can take man out of the jungle, but you cannot take the jungle out of man.
5 stars.

Yes, I confess my first She Who Must Be Obeyed loved this on me. So macho. So Western Rugged! She would give it to me as a gift--or a peace offering after throwing some piece of crockery at my head. She loved me so. Stunningly beautiful and much weirder than the body pierced goth girls that lurk in California these days.
I believe she ended up in prison for securities fraud, or owning a mansion in Pasadena. Or was it both?
There's a moral to all this, but I'm not quite sure what it is. Evil scents end up in drugstore shelves? Beware of beautiful babes that choose Chaps? I must reminisce further. . .

An arid fruit cocktail. Neither here nor there.

Some fragrances are referred to as " Sex in a bottle." This is crotch in a bottle.

But it is like Joop, minus the godawful synthetic notes. Whether it's a rip-off or an improvement-- Well, it's an improvement. I cannot detect coffee notes, either but that's just me. This one's somewhere between spiced vanilla and inexpensive oriental romantic juice. The down side is the latter part of the drydown which I find both powdery and cloying; I'll pass

Sexy, powerful, masculine and animalistic. Roma Uomo's elder, sophisticated brother.
To be worn for the romantic evening date, never in hot, humid days.
And move fast. The last phase of drydown does turn to bugspray.
Nevertheless, a provisional thumbs up.

I can picture Darth Vader wearing this one! Unisex? This may be Bvlgari's most masculine cologne. It's certainly its best. Though I can also picture Mrs. Emma Peel wearing it, as she counsels Steed to always keep his bowler on in times of stress and watch out for diabolical masterminds. . .

Cheapo synthetic vanilla cloying with an overdose of tonka drydown.
Otherwise perfection---in marketing.

The bottle is the biggest hit since Coca Cola decided to copy a woman's curves in theirs. And, from the official JPG ad:

"Since Jean Paul Gaultier's first men's collection, he has shown men that they can indulge in the forbidden, and that a kilt or dress can be worn with virility."

Yeah, I can see Braveheart forsaking his kilt to wear a dress, preferably a sequined gown while leading The Scots in battle.

We continue the hype:

" A reminder to them that nothing in life is totally black or white but always a blend."

Welcome to Orwellian Doublespeak. How many fingers am I holding up, Winslow?

"Jean Paul Gaultier now transforms the man in a sailor's T-shirt into both the symbol and bottle of Le Male."

Alone tonight, sailor?

Arguably the most luxurious, sensual scent in men's perfumery. I'm surprised there are so few reviews. Something in leather works was being crafted for the upper class swashbucklers in the 1780's. This one's a masterpiece.

Superb.
However, in the same vein in which some Basenoters argue that you have to be 'proud' or 'hold your head high' to wear a unisex niche frag which the unwashed masses would probably deem to be better suited to a female or a transvestite, I would likewise argue that you should rejoice in your manhood to wear this one. If this sounds too embarassing, if you feel that having balls is a subject for apology, then please stick to mainstream, bland and inoffensive scents.

Easy to see why Churchill and Bogart were fans. Not for the timid

By Spaniard lunatic/genius Alberto Morilla, who also invented Herrera's 212 and Givenchy's PI--He's got a thing for math--this is a well crafted woman's fragrance marketed for men, in the spirit of YSL's Opium PH.

M7 has an almost fanatical following here in Basenotes. By all means, if you're a man and you adore it, may I also suggest Muscs Ravageur and JHL? You'll be in divine yummy heavens.

For me, however, I picture M7 as THE best fragrance for teenage girls to spray on their pillows before crying themselves to sleep while pining for true love . . .

A fine oriental spice. This is the winner of the warm fuzzy category.
Merry Christmas.

I'll keep it short and sweet:
The one and only. A sin to wear it to work, unless you love your job. This one is freedom personified. Uplifting and cheerful. My favorite of all the vetivers.

Moldy crypt summed it it up best. Although Eau d'Ungeon would not be far off. If this is your take on " The Great Outdoors" you have been held hostage in the basement for too long. Good luck chewing through the barbed wire and making your escape. I can say 2 nice things about it: Funky bottle and cheap price. There is no third.

Would Gomez Addams like Pino?
Naw, he'd probably wear Savador Dali PH. This one is strictly for Uncle Fester.

Regal.
Might make you feel like bestowing knighthood on someone: " In the name of God, St. Michael and St. George--and Santal Noble."
What an incredible blend of woods and aromatics playing on the sandalwood theme.

My winter version of Le Roy Soliel, something to lounge in jeans and raw silk shirts, as you hold court ever so casually. It's an amazing oriental frag that is not the least bit cloying. Still, being an edp, beware of the trap of over dousing, as some reviewers already noted.

The scenario that winters to mind (sorry, couldn't resist) that springs to mind is standing with your true love, at Yosemite, The Grand Canyon, The Fjords or Alps, or some equally breathtaking wonder of the woods, holding her hand and watching the sun rise over the mountains at dawn.
Of course if you don't have true love, it's also a great clubbing scent that doesn't club any girl over the head unlike, say, Platinum Egoiste--to name the best of the 'loud bunch'

Enjoy!

Refined? Naw. Battery Acid? Close enough. Do women like it? I think Paris Hilton would, if you know what I mean, and I think you do.

THE ultimate clubbing scent. Pick up raunchy females clear at the other end of the bar, with just one spritz. Two and you have GOT to wear pierced earrings and sport a dumbass haircut.

Chanel has come up with a masterpiece again, only this one is a bold interpretation of every LOUD, and overbearing male citrus/wood scent made in the last decade. But what the hell, it's the best of the bunch. Good 'ole Chanel.

Cheap citrus generic wood cologne. In this case, you get what you pay for.

Who put citrus in my leather? And more to the point, WHY? Ok, it's unusual.
But buttery and smooth? Try R.E.L. by Creed. Straight up leather with a slight twist? Well, there's Acqua di Cuba, Gomma, V.I.P. etc. Want REALLY unusual leather? SMN's Peau D'Espagna. Only a hint of leather with dates and figs? Go with the (dirty word comng up) common John Varvatos. Won't even get into all the Cuir de Rus--oh, never mind. If citrus in one corner vs leather in the other feels good to your nose, this Bud's for you.

I promise if I hit all the lotto numbers to buy a bottle of Cuir d''Oranger by Miller Harris for every one who has posted here.
It's what Cuiron aspires to be.

The long lost grandson of Santa Maria Novella's Peau D'Espagna.

Like other posters, I didn't care for it at first and then grew to like it. My first impression was of slightly rotten fruit in stagnant water. A couple of days later, it became refined slightly rotten fruit in stagnant water and weeks after wards it is now a very interesting salty acquatic blend of slightly rotten fruit in stagnant but clear water.

Erolfa is better, if you're going by the seashore--or anywhere else where there's a sea breeze. On land, sea and air, Himalaya puts it to shame. However, this is just my subjective, humble, and infallible opinion. In any case, that there gold bottle sure is shiny and purty.

I wonder if this is Creed's best seller, running neck to neck with GIT?

Unessential.
God, I grew tired of this one so quickly! Fruity with a rose heart note. Big freakin' deal. So boring I began to have nightmares where I dreamt that John Varvatos was a bold, original, masterpiece and Platinum Egoiste was much too subtle, refined and elegant. Man, that was scary!

Well, I promise you that you won't offend anyone. Perfect for a nice day at the office, or a nice walk in the park with your dog, or perhaps a nice round of golf with some pot-bellied buddies.

I don't think I really care for this one.
It's not awful, just whitebread bland. Pass the mayo, and order the de-caf.

An aristocratic barbarian. Great play on citrus and a heady oriental. Go easy on the trigger, give it time to weave its spell--and yawn on the steps of the guillotine. Nighttime, evening, winter fragrance. A favorite of diversified oddballs from Tony Blair to Marianne Faithfull. Indulgent, talented and commanding. It's cool without trying. The spotlight follows . . .

Too fruity and loud for my taste. A pity the babes like it so much, or I'd only give it a neutral. Club away!

This citrus is somewhere between a Pina Colada and suntan lotion. Makes me feel like I should have bleached teeth, and carry a tennis racket.
Otherwise forgettable

God, I love this juice! Note to all the Piper Nigrum and Yatagan fans: Come out of the kitchen and take your rightful place at the head of the table in the castle.

I wonder how many others will post that this is really long lasting?

Shall I tell you the Creed Vintage Tabarome is feminine? That Antaeus is lower class compared to Curve? That I have a great real estate deal in Florida? (cash only, small bills, no refunds) Gimme a break!

Aw, allright. Compared to Coolwater or Z by Zegna, or other acquas that are so freakin' boring that you simply forget you have them on, I can see how the illusion could be created in one's mind.

Granted, the bottle is cool and the orange box catches the eye.

So, te's not quibble. Eau d' Orange Verte is a lot of fun while it lasts . . .

My Antaeus can beat up your Armani.

As mod as it is bland, it's the kind of gift the boss would pass out at the Christmas party to all the male clerks.

Not bad, just nothing to write home about. An inoffensive scent which blends with the crowd, and is guaranteed not to offend anyone.

Howard Roark would laugh. Bond would use it for target practice with his Walther PPK

Sharp minerallic yet possessing a smooth drydown. An uplifting, unique fragrance, from which I suspect BdP borrowed much.

1948 is better to my nose, though. Go easy on the trigger and let the halo of light shine forth. Good Juice!

Holy Kumquat! I'm in the minority here, giving it a neutral rating. I don't find it cloying, perhaps because nowadays it feels as if every cloying scent is a variation of vanilla with a capital V plus synthetic Joop-like crap.
I can also understand how this could be a favorite for those who like bold, unusual scents. Favorite? This has attained cult like status. Look at its virtues: Strong sillage, great longevity, super-fruity sweet (makes John Varvatos smell astringent by comparison) and a highly unusual accord.
Cactus Flesh?

Perhaps there should be a new category. Forget fougere, oriental or chypre. How about well blended frags that are half-mad?
Peau d'Espagne (tabasco sauce) Nostalgia (motor oil)
Quasar (bananas and newsprint)
etc.

XR is most certainly worth a sniff! You might join me in the minority and shrug, or you might find it appallingly sweet and cringe, but then again, you might also be among those who have discovered their signature love.

Well, it's a good hoot of a scent, like Quasar, Peau d'Espagne, Nostalgia and other quasi-comic sexy choices.

I just found out this is unisex by clicking on this review section.

You're putting me on, right? This is completely feminine. It is also, as over the top LOUD as Platinum Egoiste is for men.

New category: Scents that Shout.

So it's popular with the strong sillage/ hear me roar crowd. Not bad and--oddly enough--not cloying, but way to easy to over apply whereupon we're in Screaming Candyland.

I complimented a female co- worker today on it, and she was enormously impressed that I knew what scent she was wearing. Good Lord! If I doused myself in Joop or A*Men wouldn't she know? I rejoice to say I own neither, but c'mon this one is instantly recognizable.

Created for a young or brash crowd, but can an elegant woman over 30 pull this off?

I guess so, if she simply walks through the mist. But then, how many men that wear Platinum Egoiste or A*Men just walk through the mist?

Naw, this is best for gourmand candystripers, or would that be candy strippers?

A lightweight BdP (check out the notes) crossed with Cool Water. It ain't bad, but no great shakes.
I'm glad that, for some of you, the hot babes like it so much. Otherwise you might have gone down the road of perdition with Le Male or Versace Dreamer.
But there are far, far better Creeds.

As masculine as M7, as mature as Curve, as elegant as Axe, as subtle as Platinum Egoiste, as natural as Versace Dreamer. H*ll! Layer it with Le Male for a chemical meltdown. So intricately nuanced only praetorian noses can appreciate its delicacies. The Lolitas will flock to you, skip Rochas Man and go for broke! Oh Yumsters! Yumsters! Yumsters!

It's like being a muscle bound steroid grotesque. You will be noticed and some percentage of the population will find you irresistible. Given that, I see no need to caution against over spraying.

Celery and gunpwoder! My advice for those of you who love it would be to step out of the kitchen into the dining hall of the palace and take your rightfull place at the head of the table with Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet.

Nevertheless, one must grant this is a a most unusual frag. Perhaps I'll buy when I run out of Jacomo de Jacomo, my present sinus rocket.

Of course the ladies love it!

Every woman I know is either on a diet, struggling with a diet, or about to go on a diet.

You'll be temptation incarnate.

Much better than the godawful chemical warfare A*Men and the overhyped H. Mori.

But compared to Jo Malone's Black Vettiver Cafe or other lesser known gourmands. Rochas is too synthetic sweet.

Good summer frag. Reminded me of about half of the Geo F Trumpers, Florises, (Flori? )Penhaligons and other good Brit scents that I like but don't really love. Not terribly exciting.
Yes, it is refined, mature and you'll smell as if you've got dough.

There are better offerings along the same lines, imho. Some from the same houses. Overall, at the pain of repetition, a good summer frag.
Good light sparkling citrus with fair longevity. Like Gendfarme, it won't offend.

Ladies, I do understand how many women can feel wrapped in a soothing blanket of comfort with this one on a cold, rainy day. Especially if they've od'd on cutesy " upbeat " florals.

But can a man wear this?
Short answer: Thumbs down!

Long answer: Well, yes. Provided:

1. He doesn't mind making the cats sneeze.

2. He's never been pepper-sprayed by a cop. Otherwise it'll conjure unpleasant memories.

3. Never been trapped at church during High Mass by a berserk deacon with an incense fetish, nor ever worked for CdG.

4. Loves sprinkling cinnammon on top of yellow rice. Loves cooking with saffron.

Pass.

Well, it's a great fragrance but just not for me. Unfortunately, not only am I a refugee from Cuba, I am also a refugee from the 60's--and this is a PATCHOULI time warp!
Holy love beads! Anybody score some good acid? Need to listen to Woodstock again . . .

Completely agree that it's a most unusual scent in today's bland acquatic world. Ironically, though it's perceived as 'mature and masculine' TONS of women like to wear this as well. ( psst . . I know, I checked out The Female Fragrance Forum)

What I didn't know is that the new formulation is supposed to have even less of a civet note and MORE patchouli---Yikes!
This review is for the old formula (black and white box with Givenvchy Labels) which can't be that ancient, as I bought and used mine up only last winter.
Anyway, if you want to stand out at a formal event--and lava lamps are not conjured up in your psychedelic mind, this one's for you!

If Cristobal is a improvement on Joop (and it is) this one's an improvement on Cristobal. It's a smooth GQ type of scent for the 20 something crowd, which although not terribly original, will function as a cutecake crumbler.
Light, fresh and sweet--but counterpoint notes prevent it from being cloying. Monster sillage.

Huh? This is a sickly sweet synthetic with a touch of tobacco during drydown which tries to pass itself as 'fresh'. Mediocre at best. Glad it's still popular with the H.S. crowd, and with so many members of the forums whom I respect. Did it pave the way for something just peachy?

I'm seeing purple hype! Sweet and synthetic? Yes, also eminently forgettable. We're getting silly with this one. Not fun-silly like Quasar or Nostalgia, just silly.

This is pleasant office wear. ' Not bad' about covers it.

Groundbreaking for 16 year olds who have hitherto only tried Versace Dreamer, D&G, A*men, Le Male, AdG, Coolwater, the original Romance and whatever bland, trendy, boring junk Sepphora is pushing this week. By comparison, it's a definite improvement. Otherwise mediocre. Not bad, just not worth the effort. Pass.

This is not effeminate. I checked the word in a dictionary:

Adjective. Having qualities or characteristics more often associated with women than men.
Characterized by weakness and excessive refinement.
----------------------

It's not excessively refined.

Pass!

No, once the horrible top notes dry down, it's puerile poop.

Um . . .not surprised by those of you who like Joop, Le Male and Cuba Gold also liking this pink potpourri of synthetic tobacco.

Perhaps I'm being unfair and it's a perfect chaepo scent for romantic, brooding poets. On the other hand perhaps it's Le Dandy's lower class gay cousin coming in from the boonies for a visit to the big city.

Well, if you smell this on anyone, be kind. At least it's not Quorum.

Neither here not there.
But principally, it simply does not harmonize all the discordant notes.
I think I'll skip it.

Extremely popular and rather nice. Such a good boy! Rather bland, but a good boy. It is well crafted, it belongs in the category of liked by many and loved by a very few. Inoffensive. Give me Antaeus any day. Or rather any night.

Saying it's one dimensional is giving this one dimension too much. Forgivable with very young adolescents, or with nostalgia imbued 20 somethings whose girlfriends liked it at the High School prom.

Not for me. Smells as if I spilled a cup of herbal tea mixed with lemon on my hairy chest.
It's a pity there weren't 'unisex' frags back then; this smells much better on women, esp the jungle tigress types. One good thing about it, it's not absolutely foul like it's "extreme" variant. Pass on this classic.

Ah, the 80's, when men were men!
--Unless they were ferns . . .

As noted, this is rich, freshly cut garden grass-- and without any medicinal-herbal notes--which I happen to dislike. Great for the outdoors.

It's an uplifting, almost heroic scent.
Perfect for either tough self-made millionares, or starving artists who fight alone against the world!

Anybody got a copy of The Fountainhead?

Sorry, but this comes off as a powdery and banal version of Egoiste. Get your rose elsewhere. Too sweet. Pass.

Casual is one thing, this one's scratching your belly button while burping. On top of that it's citrusy-cheap and feminine sweet. Must have been some weekend . . .

A pungent aromatic fougere that kicks ass---but does so with aristocratic subtlety and panache.
Spaniards seem capable of creating only two types of fragrances: The very good or the very bad; and this one is on the side of the angels.
Only con is a somewhat annoying top note which mercifully settles down quickly and then serves the useful function of locking in all the coolness of the forest green accords. Good longevity. Viva!

At the risk of repetition, yes this is an Acqua di Gio clone but (dare I say it?) better than the original. Agree with the reviewers again that it's a light and sparkling juice, and that it will appeal to the younger crowd.--Or anyone in search of the best el cheapo frags that pennies can buy--see also Iceberg Twice, 212 H20, Ferrari Black, etc.
Cheers!

This is so bad it's good.
Sometimes.
Now, where did I put that onyx dagger and the goat I was going to sacrifice to Cthulhu?

I think this should come in EDP!

Don't ask me why, if I told you I'd have to tie you to the altar as well.

Sweet dreams . . .

Clean, fresh, and inexpensive.
You should buy it as I did.
Was I once so young?
Swiss Army was good at the time.
Now?
It's time to surrender.

If you're still using this, you've been asleep since 1996.
May the sleeper awaken!

A caramelized vanilla babe magnet. One of the better of the most common frags at your friendly mall.
Why only a neutral?
Well, in the first place you have really got to have a sweet tooth to endure this one.
In the second place, besides Orientals with a touch of vanilla, or more than just a touch, like Jaipur and Co.--which are better---I must mention another equally easy to find yet far more complex, dark, and intriguing fragrance: Bulgari Black !

That's the one from which I get my vanilla fix. Yes, chicks dig it too, Beavis.

In fact if you're really a crazed vanillaholic, go on the net and search for the little known 100% revved up Primo concoction, Lomani's Ignition.
Pax 'all.

So, when are they going to come out with L'air du Temps for men?

Well, graded on a curve this is ahead of M7 and PI and Raw Vanilla but far behind other Orientals , such as Signature by St. Dupont, Bulgari Black and--oh, too many to mention.

An ok wood/pepper--or is it tobacco?--accord keeps it from being too cloying. but 'nice' is about all one can say of this one; unlike its great namesake for the ladies.

It's Halloween and the busty, sexy kindergarten teacher has shown up to class dressed like The Tooth Fairy.

She sniffs something in the air.

Terrified, she recognizes the smell, it's Joop!

Jason Voorhees and Freddy Kreuger enter and make short work of her in front of the horrified children.

Screams and slashes!!!!

OK, cut and print.

The director turns to the screenwriter.

" Sorry dude, but Joop! should have a question mark at the end, not an exclamation point. You're fired! "

The cast breaks for lunch----and even the child actors avoid anything that smells even remotely sweet.

The End.

Wow! Hard to top foetidus' excellent review. This is a sparkling delight, especially suitable for the summer.

Vetiver is an ingredient, but the virtue of this frag is NOT that 'this is a scent with vetiver for people who don't like vetiver.'

( Here's a stunning idea: If you don't like vetiver, don't wear vetiver.)

The virtue is that--aw hell, just read anything posted in The Fragrance Forums on this juice by Scentemental.

I was familiar with Esencia Lowe but not with this one. What a sleeper!

Well, I've said it before and I'll say it again: Spaniards seem capable of creating only two kinds of fragrances; the very good or the very bad. This one is very, very good.

Some odd reviews: " I wouldn't use Zino when meeting a girl. "

Well, neither would I, if I just wanted to be friends with her . . .

Far higher on the machometer than Muscs Ravageur, to which it has been compared (huh?) or JHL Again that's just my subjective, personal and infallible opinion.

Quite a sophisticated juice, not for daytime--unless it's winter; there's only one downside: Guerlian's Heritage.
Now that's one that I would compare Zino to--at drydown. I agree that Guerlian must have ripped it off--I mean, um-was inspired by Zino.

I'll let you in on a secret. Zino is far more complex and interesting.
And far more romantic.

A girlie scent that's quite manly.

Say what?

This one opens up with amber and vanilla notes that are quite sweet--but then the musk and civet come forth like gangbusters.

( Is it real civet? Not unless Oliver's bribed the ASPCA--but let's let Creed's ' I'm so natural' hype slide and get back to the scent )

The male and female notes do a tango back and forth all the way to drydown.

What is this anyway? Jaipur crossed with MKK ??

Weird? Yes.
Decadent? Affirmative.
Sophisticated? Roger that.

Bottom line is that this is an evening scent for when you're too lazy to be dashing and bold, and so you leave Antaeus on the shelf, while you recline on the couch like a patrician Roman as nubile harem girls feed you grapes.
Not bad, huh?

Doesn't do a Dzing! for me

(sorry)

I'm a bit afraid to turn in a neutral verdict while surrounded by all these lovers and haters--but I must, otherwise I'll just be damning it with faint praise.

Perhaps the most refined--or the most expensive--of the " half-insane " frags
which are a hoot! eg; Quasar ( newsprint and bananas? ) Xeryus Rouge (cactus flesh?) SMN Nostalgia ( gasoline and motor oil?)

I'm glad so many of you enjoy this particular circus. For those who haven't tried it, by all means give it a whiff, you might love its cheerful lunacy as well--but don't buy this one blind.

Starts off very sweet and feminine, but after a while it gets more butch.
(Or perhaps just more medicinal?)
I agree with Ms. unstableisotope, this could very well be considered a modernized version of Shalimar (my grandma's fave, btw) and I've no doubt that on her skin it is 'magnificent vanilla' etc. Great on women. Not for me. Pass.

Good for insomniacs, it'll put you to sleep. This is so mediocre that it makes the tired fragrances by Lacoste exciting by comparison. Now that's mediocre!

If you care to try superb fruit scents for men, start off with Nicole Miller, Le Roy Soleil, and the original 1989 Montana. These should keep you happy for a very long while.
Cheers.

Prada has an amber barbeshop feel that wears very close to the skin. This juice is understated and it seems to vanish quickly. If you like soapy scents, you'll enjoy this one.

Allright I recant! This really is a great frag IF (see jforturi's 2003 review) you are around the seashore. In fact it is superb frag by the seashore. Skip the seabreeze and wear it at a board meeting? I don't think so.

The film was better.
Ah! the 80's And what did that decade produce, old man? The cuckoo clock--no wait, that's from the film . . .

Ok 80's powerhouse scents like Santos de Cartier (original formula), Francesco Smalto , Pascal Morabito Or Black, Versace l'Homme, Esencia Loewe-- and stinkers like Quorum.

Chypre, Fougere, Animalistic! The Drakkar Noir decade. Bring the outdoors home The Hills are Alive---and it's very frightening.
Will Fern and Oakmoss take over The World?
This one is light for its time, not bad at all but nothing to write home about, old man. Though I suppose by today's bland standards some would consider it quite bold. Good drydown.

Well, after all is said and done, this paean to orangey cleanliness makes me feel like taking another shower, just to be on the safe side and brushing my teeth yet again---rather than jumping for joy.
This juice is rather simple and inoffensive. I can't imagine having the happy reaction I get from wearing Himalaya (Yes!) with this one. In fact it's hard for me to imagine anyone feeling so happy with Happy.

Possible exceptions being:

A) You want to get in touch with your inner child.

B) You really are 12 years old or younger.

C) You're going to the baseball game with your kids.

D) You're a burly sailor with a "Kick Me" tattoo on your back who enjoys barroom brawls by the waterfront, and you're about to smash a pool cue on someone's head.

Or variations of the above.

Allright Firmenic!--If that really is your name--Fess up!
What you did was to take a bottle of Givenchi Gentleman and ask yourself:

" How can I make this far more sexy and accessible, even at the cost of it being less formal or elegant? "

Your masterplan succeeded admirably and you kept the Patchouli theme of GG
and, as you evaporated the notes suited for a night at the opera, you combined star anise. pipe tobacco, suede, dark plum, incense, fruits and-- Dionysus only knows what Booze--to produce this brash yet somehow ( you mad genius, you! ) light brew.

Will it be hailed as a classic years from now like ( the old unreformulated) GG?
Will the praise continue unabated?
Who knows?

I can only speculate that: " Your place or mine" will always prove more popular than " Wanna stay for the second act of La Boheme? "

Cheers.

MASCULUS! (Latin)

SHIBUMI! (Japanese)
Well, I guess shibumi should not be capitalized, let alone given an exclamation mark. The rough equivalent in English is simple, in good taste, and subtle.

I'm not sure this 80's left hook to the jaw could be classed as " subtle "

From Wikipedia:" Originating in the Muromachi period (1333-1568) as shibushi, the term originally referred to a sour or astringent taste, such as that of an unripe persimmon. Shibui maintains that literal meaning still, and remains the antonym of amai (甘い, amai?), meaning 'sweet'."

Yep, like Azaaro, The Third Man, and company, whatever Tuscany is , it sure ain't sweet!

Though I've tired of it at present, fickle soul that I am, I'd still recommend this 'anti-frag' for unabashed machismo during cold winters

Strong sillage. Made in '78, Azzarro was a herald of the oakmoss 80's. About a 9 on the machometer, yet after the top anise note goes away it is really quite sparkling and light on its feet.
Not to be confused with over the top stink bombs like Quorum.
Azzarro delivers the goods. I've enough of its genre. Still, if I tire of Tuscany and co; this forgotten one is a great bang for your buck. Check it out. Especially if you're a fan of fougeres. Unlike its chypre cousin, Aramis, it is not instantly recognizable--So I think it's well worth a try on all counts

So I happenned to be by a L'Occitane store and asked the SA about any orange/orange blossom edt's

She mentioned that 'the good one' (?) had been discontinued, but that they now carry this one instead.

It has an annoyingly irritating top note, but after a while it settles into something synthetic and mediocre.

What's going on in Provence these days?

I wonder what 'the good one' was?

5 to 1 it was L'Oranger Neroli

*sigh*

This is an old love it or hate it scent.

There are folks I know that love it above all others (no, I'm not kidding) and there are folks that use it as a bathroom deodorizer (no, I'm not kidding)

I'll pass.

No, I don't hate it, but it's too suburbia prom night rented tuxedo retro 70's. Some like it out of nostalgia, others because they can't find a citrus with longevity and some plain like it. I'm not one of them, much too overbearing a juice, If you want a violet rush that's dignified and distinct, try Joseph Abboud. GF is too high a price to pay for longevity.

Is it honeysuckle or did the " Check Engine " warning light just lit up on the dashboard of my car?
Well, it was innovative for its time I guess.

I agree with the generic verdict. Thumbs down but let's not get too carried away. It's not as if Versailles came out as a re-formulated marine and smelled like Axe.
All Bulgari did is screw up a B+ scent. One that was eminently wearable but hardly a work of genius.

What the world needs: Another review of Acqua di Gio.

Glad to oblige. It's still overpriced and overrated. It's still inoffensive/timid.
A fragrance for men who want to wear fragrance but don't want to smell as if they are wearing a fragrance. (Are you taking notes?)

To my nose, it smells like a watered down version of Geir. I think that if Geir Ness had wanted to make a light, fraiche, pseudo acquatic, green colored version of Geir for the summer--and screwed it up by being cheap, it would smell somewhat like this.

Mild stuff. Remember to pronounce it correctly. Gio should sound like Joe. Not Gee-oh.

It's just too bland to give it a thumbs down. Neutered and Neutral.

This is a B+ aqua that's on the good side of not so boring. Easily wearable, but it ain't no great shakes--no Gai Mattiolo Uomo or Erolfa.

However should you be in the market for a versatile and inexpensive fragrance, go for it.
May I suggest you also check out also Caroline Herrera's 212 H2O? It's about a B+ as well, and neither it nor this one will smell ' generic'
I promise.

A modern surrealist work of art wherein a beehive falls from the sky into a tar pit and the bees not only manage to survive but convert the tar into honey.

In other words, I have to agree with Sir Slarty's assesment. This is one weird mother of a scent and I find it quite interesting, but hard to wear.

I have been informed that it is dry. Not only by so many of you who have reviewed it here, but by a certain female acquaintance who pronounced it so, after a mere ten minutes on her skin. I was astounded as I found the predominant note creamy vanilla , despite the counter-notes. She replied that she found the scent on her skin to be primaraly smoky, with only a hint of sweetness.

Perhaps I should have waited and tested Ruggles' statement that this contains the driest sandalwood drydown on the planet. However, so far I've been waiting for 24 hours, and the drydown is nowhere in sight. No one can fault this one for longevity.

At present, I simply feel an urge to go out to my favorite Moroccan restaurant, flirt shamelessly with the belly dancers, enjoy the exotic main courses, but skip my favorite finale: the delicious kaab el ghzal

It would be redundant.
For me, L'air du Desert Marocain is much more about dessert than desert.

Aye. 'Tis a beauty of a beastie.
It may not be advisable to wear it over the moors at night when the forces of evil are exulted, lest you start howling like a wolf.
On the other hand, if you're over 40 going about your mundane business, do not be surprised if you order a cup of coffee and the lovely waitress half your age approaches you cautiously, like a slow caress.
This is leather for the full moon.

This has THE booziest opening I've ever encountered. It's probably banned at A.A. meetings.
I'm lying.
No, not about the opening. About my neutral rating.
This has got to be either a thumbs up or down, but you have to decide which.
If you like JHL, chances a you'll love this. On the other hand, if you feel you raided your grandmother's cabinet, stay away.

Especially if your grandmother was a patchouli addicted hippie.

This is Givenchy Gentleman falling down drunk at U.C. Berkeley.

I never realized Spain was so soapy. This one's understated machismo.

I like Jack Twist's " Atticus Finch" reference. It does evoke a man in his 50's who spends time in libraries. As to the lavender, I mean the spice, er . . .I mean the top notes--- well, your guess is as good as mine.
No one has posted them anywhere that I can find. Nor, for that matter, any of the other notes

" Woods resting on leather"-- that's nice, but.could we be more specific?

If any of my fellow BN'ers find what they are, would you be so kind as to post them?.

The official description at T&H's site is embarassing:
" John Wayne . . but not on a horse . . .in a cherry red Ferrari. "

Er . . .I think not.

Sillage is not strong, it's not meant to be. I wonder why they didn't make a shaving cream out of this one? Or did they? If so, it's not on the T&H site.
Longevity is decent.

My favorite of their frags, and I'm not just saying that because I'm mature, bookish, tall, dark, handsome, a pillar of integrity, and (of course) understated.

I hope you give this scent a try.

A bit too powdery for me, though still a very fine fragrance. Why not a thumbs up? Because it's a bit dull. Somewhere between this well-bred gentleman and the growling animal of the (original) Bel Ami lies Hermes finest take on leather, the oldest of the trio, Eau D' Hermes (1951)
Is Hermes retrograde?

I find this inoffensive and rather bland in moderation. Irritating and overbearing in excess, and I must admit I enjoy it best when I don't wear it at all. I'm a fan of oranges and pepper--and the house of Hermes but I can't fathom what the fuss is all about. Oh, well. Live and let live . . .

I liked the semi-seaweed of CdG's Vettiveru ( 2002 ) but I must admit that the ozonic cognac iodine and unabashed full-on seaweed of this older vintage brought a much broader smile to my face. A nice change of pace and eminently wearable for the summer.
Pass the salt, please.

I wish I could say that to me, it doesn't smell like figs, it smells like. . .dry grass and tomato leaves.

But

a. SniffQ already said that.

b. The potted plant smell ( whether it's dry gass or tomato) is present in virtually all the offerings by Diptyque.

c. We mut be wrong, since:

1. Olivia Giacobetti is a genius.

and

2. The majority of reviewers wax happily about the pronounced fig smell !

They're only differ-- or confess to being unsure--- as to whether it's creamy, simple, woodsy, dry, wet, complex; reminiscent of coconuts ( or almonds or peaches or bananas or...?) astringent, musky, has cedar, does not have cedar . projects great sillage, rides close to the skin; is more interesting than Marc Jacobs ( well, what the hell isn't?) but perhaps not more so than Jo Malone or Premier Figuier.

Sacre Bleu!

I beileve I have been niched.

I can't quite bring myself to give this a neutral rating, anymore that I can bring myself to go to a restaurant and complain that the waiter brought me a lime or a lemon, while I distinctly asked for a cedrat.

BdC is much too linear for me. Still, one could wear it for Spring and Summer and REL for Autumn and Winter and be done with it!

No one could fault your ever so refined taste if you stuck to these two alone.

No more fragrance addiction! Take up Scrabble or Yahtzee as a hobby. But then life would be rather boring , wouldn't it?


BdC as the name translates is a forest of lim--er--I mean cedrat. It's definitely a 'gentlemen's' scent with a delightful feel and a depressing price tag.

I rather like it. For a while.

Good Oriental, a bit too vanilla-sweet and feminine for my taste, but balanced so well that it all comes out quite elegant . As long as it's not oversprayed, Jaipur has a happy ending.
Moreover, it does not suffer from the 'heavyness' of so many scents in the Oriental category which tend to come off way "over the top". Jaipur, by contrast, tends to float away like a cloud. For me, this was a fun try which I've enjoyed owning, though it got too powdery for my nose over the years. Jaipur has many fans but--PERFECTION? The Holy Grail? I hardly think so.
Unless, of course, you're a Heliotrope addict. . .

Roll around on the earth and save yourself the trouble. I like arid, but this is ridiculous.
If you must get an Y.R frag, listen to the nice lady with the French accent on the phone from Y.R's Canadian H.Q. and get Homme Nature.

Why anyone, man or woman, dominated or dominatrix would like this perverted caricature of macho is beyond me. The clash of leather and florals is a wreck. Made during the occupation, perhaps Piguet hoped that, as they were very heavy into boots, the Germans would buy it. Pass.

You know, the worst thing I can say about this scent is that Kolnisch Juchten is better. But then Kolnisch Juchten is better than anything, at least in the category of relatively unknown leather frags.

1776 is an interesting leather scent. I think Buzzlepuff nailed it. Yes, I agree with all the reviewers who have smelled it, thumbs up! I find more spice and booze in this one than I do root beer or black tea. Unusual and uplifting. The only downside is that you may be seized by an impulse to jump on the saddle, draw your saber, kick the horse into a gallop and charge the enemy!
By-gone era indeed.

Well, I was too enthusiastic about this one at first, possibly because I considered it an improvement over the regular Declaration, which it is. But after all is said and done, it's good office wear with a solid quality usually lacking in citrus scents.

And that's about it.

Popular with the frat boys at the time when the hippies were OD'ing on patchouli. Strangely, it wasn't considered all that 'manly' by comparisons to the pop frags of the day, but rather 'refined and formal' instead. I was rather unkind to this classic in my former review and must recant, though Spice Central is no longer to my taste, I concede that this chypre is far from exhausted and deserves a thumbs up, but spritz ever so lightly, as this is one of the easiest frags to overdo and, as already pointed out, one of the easiest to recognize.

I read about this one first at Perfume Emporium, a site that advertises itself as carrying 'Cheap Perfumes' --and arguably cheaper reviews.

As of today there were four for Sybaris. Two giving it the worst 1 star rating, They were entitled 'mustard gas' and 'bug spray' respectively: which frankly sound somewhat negative to me . . .

Two others gave it their highest 5 star rating. One of those reviwers assured us that it was better suited for those sophisticated Europeans. The other knew his stuff. ---He mentioned Guerlain Heritage, Patou Prive, and Hermes Equipage, and thought it was best suited for the over 30 crowd.

I got a bad bottle. (NOT from PE) The Green topnotes of lemon, mandarin, etc. were completely missing.
Instead there was a kind of synthetic lipstick smell, which mercifully receded after 5 minutes, and then Sybaris started rising on the machometer.

I did get the middle and basenotes, and they're exceedingly well blended. This is a leather scent but skip it if you're looking to get strong, dominant leather. Here it's only a part of the theme.

Altogether I found Sybaris refreshingly light on its feet yet possessing a dark undercurrent. Perhaps best suited for a boxer with a fast jab?

Unlike R.E.L. which I could envision wearing while sitting on a leather chair at that exclusive, old fashioned, gentlemen's club to which we often allude to here in BN, or Miller Harris Cuir d'Oranger, another masterpiece best suited for speeding on one's Harley; I envision people wearing Knize Ten back during prohibition at a jazz club while swilling Champagne.
James Dean in "Giant " when he strikes oil, however, must not be ignored. Yes, the petroleum note does take some time to get used to. A brilliant composition I admire but can't really wear except very sparingly and in very cold weather.

Unlike many of the uber-macho 80's powerhouse frags this one does not reek of fetid mustyness. It does not contain oakmoss, musk, vetiver, patchouli, tonka beans or assorted funguses (or would that be fungi? ) at the base.

Thus Macassar is a pleasant change among CEO's, World Dictators, Mafia Dons, My First Girlfriend, Tarzan of The Apes, 007, Lt. Commander Worf--and Fellow Basenoters.

Come to think of it, how many virile 9+ machometer frags do you know with an absinthe top note?

Does absinthe truly make the heart grow fonder? I'd say it does in this one, a stylish blockbuster!

No wonder they lost to The Romans.

A singularly 'perfumey' frag which by any name still smells synthetic and el cheapo.

Leather? Give me REL or Cuir d' Oranger.
Perhaps this will blend well with your skin chemistry? If so, wear it in good health, cooler climates, and remember that less is more--especially here.
Linear and pungent.

I vaguely remembered that in Greek mythology, poor Persephone had something to do with pomegranates. But did you know that in Exodus the High Priest had images of pomegranetes woven into his robe? That Leonardo and Boticelli featured pomegranates in their Madonna and Infant paintings? That the Qu'ran mentions pomegranates will be in Paradise? Or that some Hebrew scholars speculate that the pomegranate was the forbidden fruit in The Garden of Eden?

No? It's OK, neither did I. I looked it up in Wikipedia.

Be forewarned though, according to the same:

"The pomegranate also evoked the presence of the Aegean Triple Goddess who evolved into the Olympian Hera, who is sometimes represented offering the pomegranate. "

So reviewers, myself included, better watch what we say---one diety you do NOT want to piss off is The Triple Moon Goddess.

How does Jo's offering stack up?

Longevity is very good. I could still smell it on my skin 9 hours later. This is a linear scent, so be certain you like it--as you'll be stuck with it for 9+ hours.

Sophisticated and unusual. However now that some time has passed I concur with Vibert--it no longer puts me in a good mood, either.

Furthermore, I believe women can be better served by this one.

The Bride in Kill Bill immediately comes to mind.



M.

Great summer after shave.

It's a citrus EDC so the longevity is not the greatest. The Verbena-- or if you pay full price at a retailer, Vervain-- opening might feel strange to those who are used to Lemon Blasts as the citric norm. I like it. The combination of heart and base is well done. The rose does not overpower. No single note calls attention to itself.

AdP does have enormous snob appeal.

Perhaps we can get the economy going if banks offered a bottle of AdP to each new depositor who plunks down 100k or more?
I mean, do you really need another pocket calculator?

Hell, we could even bribe an archeologist to discover a scroll written in Etruscan that 'proves' that AdP, far from being created in 1916, was in fact the staple of the first Kings of Rome---Hey, we've all heard weirder schemes on the news.

Just a thought.

I don't remember Cuba being quite this unisex.
What the Hades is Cascarilla anyway?
This is a tough one for met to judge. I can see the downside; yes it does smell a bit too "drug store" and yet, on the other hand, the sweet woods are captivating and the sillage is mild and subtle. Bottom line? I feel there are better tobacco scents out on the market, or at least more enjoyable ones.

Not as sharp an opening as Eau d'Orange Verte.
This one's very light and smooth.
However, longevity, as usual, sucks big time.
I really must use the search feature to find that trick of using unscented lotion to make frags last longer, or bite the bullet and get the Concentree version--which everyone agrees lasts much longer---though not everyone agrees that it is as good as the original.

So back in 1889 good old Aime designs this as a woman's scent but it proves to be far more popular with men? Not as strange as it may seem. Old Spice was first designed as a woman's scent, bombed with the fairer sex, and the rest is history.

Unlike Old Spice, this one's still popular with women ( it doesn't suck ) and it has the distinction--or so we are told-- of being the first 'abstract scent' i.e; of having more than one note and morphing within the pyramid of top, heart and base.

The opening, despite having a lemon note is really well balanced with mandarin, bergamot, and rosewood. So you won't choke on industrial strength lemon pledge--a fault of many citrus frags these days.

In fact, I'd venture to say this is as refreshing and bracing an opening as you'd find in the best of men's aftershaves. The heart notes are mild and then the leather-tonka base brings the show to an end.

However it is short lived.
Now, you could re-apply Eau d'Orange Verte throughout the day every 2 hours by spritzing from a small decant, but who on earth has the patience to spritz a refreshing and bracing citrus scent that just ended on an amber-tonka drydown?

Life is just too short. Still, a thumbs up for this time warp trip to the past.

Aw, shucks. Folks, foetidus beat me to the punch!

What he said--word for word.

( I am only surprised N_N hasn't reviewed this yet. One would think the Baron de Charlus would be a huge fan, or could I be mistaken? )

I shall content myself to add that this one is not for the under 35 crowd and that it is sartorially demanding. I cannot imagine wearing this without a suit and tie.

Confound it! Even if I were in a hurry I couldn't bring myself to tie a four-in-hand, it demands a Windsor knot.

Good in warmer climates, unlike my all time favorite suit and tie frag, Dunhill '34 or my Autumn/Winter rose, Egoiste.

I have got to buy a white raw silk suit . . .

*sigh*

Somewhat soapy and very forgettable. If the stories are true it's one of the most popular scents used by politicians, 'nuff said.

For those of you kinky enough to be into officewear.

What I said about Antaeus; only this is for women. 5 stars+

I smiled when I read the review by foetidus. Not because he was wrong, far from it! It's just that our most prolific critic usually writes extensive and quite impressive examinations on the details of each individual note, the mingling of the combinations thereof from top to drydown, and so forth.
But here the poet, terse and sincere, gets the best of him.
Could it be love? I don't doubt it.
L'Heure Bleue does capture all the wonder of the beauty of THE woman as the night begins to fall around her and the Sun is edged out by dying blues. It's heavy stuff. Some may find it too heavy, especially since it was created in 1912 and a few women might have memories of their mothers to their great grandmothers wearing this (assuming they had superb taste) and conclude it's
too ' little old ladyish. ' More's the pity; sample first.

Well, I'm not sure if I should embalm or annoint someone with the myrrh but then I can't say I spot a myrrh note. Let's be honest, I wouldn't know a myrrh note if it punched me on the nose. I do recognize frankincense but I don't smell it here, except in minute quanities towards drydown. Did someone forget the gold? Never mind. C&S have come up with No.88, Cuba and Neroli; so it's forgivable if some mad scientist in tweeds working for this venerable house comes up with a weird one now and then. This one can be fun, if you're also fond of strange experiments. Not bad smelling by any means, just um . . .Anglo avante-garde? I tend to picture Bertie Wooster wearing it, even though Jeeves expresses his misgivings.

The opening of this rose scent has been described as medicinal and sharp, which is true enough, though I would add boozey as well.
This is one drunk rose. Odd to think of booze and roses together, but there it is. The sandalwood gives it depth, and I'm in agreement with Pigeon Murderer that this definitely leans toward the feminine side.
Montale is full of surprises, isn't it?

Well, it does smell like a rose.
Moreover, it's not synthetic-cheap, good quality though completely linear.
A good Mother's Day present, I think.
Is there a Grandmother's Day?

This one's for Julie in Truffaut's adaptation of ' The Bride Wore Black ' as she goes from one revenge murder to the next. Not bad for Morticia Addams either, or for any sophisticated woman that's into Madame Butterfly or, for a shorter and more upbeat piece of music, Siegfried's Funeral March. Young goth Suicide Girls must not be ignored, either.
If this sounds much too sarcastic, permit me to be the first to acknowledge that this is really a well blended 'semi-oud' scent---as previously pointed out by these excellent reviewers. An acquired taste indeed, but objectively: It's a YES.

A sharp grapefruit opening, about one minute of peace and calm, then a civet note kicks in to make it more surly or intimidating than most grapefruits frags. Best comment? It's better made than Memorie d'Homme by Ricci. Worst comment? It's not intimidating, just mildly annoying. Pass.

A fruity three star scent which according to 'The Basenotes Says' info is:

"The latest male launch from Dior, 4 years on from Dune for Men. Desgned (sic) for the youth market, ( my guess is 14 year olds--or former users AdG which really amounts to the same thing ) this is very fresh ( what! The young are buying fresh scents at the mall? Stop the presses!) and has an eye catching bottle."

Still, I'd like to give it a thumbs up for ebullience ( um--did I spell that right?) it reminds me of Clinique Happy, Quasar and Paco's XS, only with pears. I'd like to but . . .

A very typical Serge Lutens but among the least looney. Not over the top. Or at least not over the top for Serge though we still get the trademark honey schtick. Women would probably like this one--on themselves. And of course on a man they love.
But then the same could be said for Musc Ravageur, M7, JHL, most amber scents, and any one of hundreds of other sweet frags that are considered hip and cool. (Somehow I can't envision Coty's Raw Vanilla making the grade but Tauer's whatchamacallit in French desert is a shoo in) Lutens has found his niche.

Maple syrup? No, wait. That's Miracle Homme. What we have here is an odd duck of an amber with a funky herbal/wood harsh note that makes one wonder if it was intended to make it 'dirty' in the sense that MKK is a'dirty' musk. Or perhaps it's just meant to erase any accusations of being cloying? I don't know but this is sugar sweet and --Naw, not dark. Not amber noire, just amber . . . funky. On the brighter side, no one can accuse this one of having low sillage or poor longevity.
I'll pass.

Damn! I must be getting better at this. After three day's wear I sat down to write this review, and I see that all of I wanted to say has been said before! By BN members whom I hold in high esteem, no less.

Yes, the adjectives clear, pure, simple, sharp and light are true, and yet the fragrance does have depth and substance; this is one serious neroli for such an uplifting and cheerful scent. Perhaps that's also how the masculine feel is achieved?
Then I had the brilliant thought that this should wear better in Spring, Fall or Winter, rather than the ususal citrus recommendation for high temperatures in Summer. Oops. Already stated!
C&S may be one of the most underrated houses around.

Vibert put it best with " woody vanilla harmonics. " As to the ad copy that " this scent is designed to be a mix of old and new " weeel . . .No it's not that innovative.
C&S No. 88 it's not. Still this is a fun wear and while you might not give it your undivided attention above all others, it is most certainly a thumbs up!
My thanks to Silverbullet for turning me on to this one. A comfort scent, and an old world feel and a modern interpretation. Hm . . .Here I contradict myself, but I don't care. A mix of old and new indeed!

Lighter fluid at the start? Ok, yes.
Acrid throughout? Ok yes.
Well made? OK, yes.
Better than Guerlian? No way.

This one's too pretty for me.

Well, first of all, I'm glad I'm among half of the reviewers who can smell honeysuckle in this one. In the second place, I'm a sucker for mint notes,so this is a comfort summer scent which works well, (see Epicea, Selection Verte, etc.)

One reason it's not as popular as other Creeds is that it is linear, which is not a problem with, say, REL--which after 30 seconds of mandarin is all smooth leather--bu here the opening with flowers, apparently renders it unisex or downright feminine to some, as does the non-fungus drydown. Pity.
Creed could have put some moss at the beginning and tobacco at the end --or vice versa, but it would have ruined the composition.

All those notes and all I get is a viable fruit laden concotion which lasts a long time. By no means bad, unless you've been spoiled by Montana Parfum d'Homme (original formula) and the like. On the other hand, if all you've tried is AdG, this is quite an improvement.
Why call it " Black Diamond " instead of " Acqua of Assorted Melons with Subdued Spices " ?
The question is rhetorical, of course.
Black Diamond sounds cooler.

What have we here? Mont Blanc Individuel after coming back from a dozen wars highly decorated, alive and well? Richard James, only--if such a thing were possible--even more sophisticated?

I now agree with Luca Turin when he wrote that there should be a category entitled:

" Scents that just smell great. "

I may disagree with some of his picks for that honor, to each his own. In my Golden Book, Baie de Genievre belongs on the first page.

Absolutely amazing. Could be worn every day of the week with any style of clothing, provided you don't mind getting compliments galore. Probably best in cooler weather but who cares? If you love this you'll wear it in summer as well--and get away with it.

Yes it's a tango between Juniper Berry and Cinnamon Leaves with an excellent Vetiver base and, as previously noted by the reviewers as well, one of Creed's finest creations.

But let me simplify it: It smells great!

A must for fans of clean and soapy scents. I'm giving it a neutral, though objectively it rates higher because I've just tried Puro Lino and, once again, Gendarme. The latter is a vanishing act and--for me--a snoozefest. The former, like EA2 is on the floral side of clean. In fact, PL is so clean it might make you want to imitate Mahatma Gandhi and start weaving your own homespun white linen robes.

So I think a neutral is a reasonable compromise here. Check it out.

Well I happen to like most Creeds, even if they're absurdly overpriced and the company employs outrageous marketing campaigns ( A scent created exclusively for The Pope?) so I suppose by this admission my ideology will be forever suspect with the niche police.

Though I find it very odd that many a niche aficionado apparently consider poor longevity in a scent to be of no consequence whatsoever, and the knowledge thereof the mark of a true connoisseur.

Huh?

Anyway, here's my take on this scent
I feel that for this Neroli the Sauvage moniker should apply to the price.
Sorry, Oliver--it just ain't worth it.
NS is a pleasant B+ scent that is gone bye-bye much too quickly.
If ever a juice rated a neutral rating, this is it.

I'm surprised so few BN'ers know about this juice. 300 year old formula? I don't doubt it. There's a wonderfully magisterial feel to this one comparable with Blenheim Bouquet or Vintage Tabarome, but far more suited to a knight of old.
One who is chivalrous and courteous but refuses to bear any insults.
Are you sure it's not older than 300? While I can see Cyrano wearing this light and poetic leather as his signature scent, it would not be out of place for El Cid either.
Be forewarned, Kolnisch Juchten is a joy to lovers of leather scents but if someone exhibits ordinary urban rudeness towards you, do try to refrain the impulse to throw down a leather glove and ask " Are you challenging me to a duel, sir? "

The opening stinks but it stinks in an old fashioned, aristocratic gallic manner. People might come to the conclusion that scores of your ancestors were guillotined by Robespierre during the revolution!

Do you care for Route du Vetiver? The Third Man? Fourme' d'Ambert on crackers? About a 9+ on the machometer. Interesting and unusual take on Vetiver.

Well Shiver me Timbers and Clove my Peppers!
Black Spice is one strong badass scent with outstanding power and longevity. Surprisingly so, even for an EDP.
Could this be the 21st Century's niche upgrade of Aramis?
Alas, it does not fit well with my skin chemistry ( or perhaps I OD'd too much on Aramis back in my early 20's) hence the neutral rating, though I can see how for some hardened pirates, this could be true love at first powderkeg explosion.

Dear Lorenzo:
Are the opening notes truly just bergamot. lavender and rosewood? Am I making the amateurish mistake of assuming that because they're listed as top notes we won't get a whiff of the rest of the scent right away? Or is there more truth to this than we've realized and you've managed to blend the top 3 notes like no one ever has before??

The reason I mention all this is that this vetiver scent of yours has, for me, THE greatest opening note I've been priviliged to enjoy. Smoky and--well, you can read the rest of the reviews.

However, despite the excellent longevity and the masculine gravitas of the rest of the scent, it's a bit of a bore compared to Guerlian's. In fact I'd dare say that, in my subjective opinion Goutal's salty offering is more innovative as a whole.

Please let me know if you ever make a scent that --though linear--can capture the opening of this one for hours. It'll be my favorite.

Go easy on the pepper,
Your fan,
Mario

I agree with Panda Poacher, Havana Reserva is a concentrated edition of Havana and the differences are miinimal. I will add that this is a good thing because Reserva projects more sillage (so go easy on the trigger boys and girls) and better still, it lasts hours longer.
I've no idea why but the chemists among us might be able to enlighten us as to why concentrated versions are hard to do well.
Chanel PM vs Chanel PM Concentree is one example that frequently comes up. To take a far more radical one, there's Eau Sauvage Extreme ( Yuck! ) which smells nothing like the original ES.
Fortunately, Havana Reserva is one of the happy exceptions.

This is generic purgatory.
I only give this acquatic woods a neutral instead of a thumbs down because graded on a a Curve---Er...I mean a curve, there are others which are truly hell.

Wise butterfly
Smells linear Neroli
And zooms off in a straight line . . .

Is this the worst attempt at a haiku?

That's Ok, this is one of the worst (or cheapest) attempts at a neroli frag.

Now, on the other hand about that C&S version or the old L'Occitane . . .

The usual sharp Diptyque opening and then there's some strange flowery
--No make that garden herbal earth notes.
There's some sandalwood too, but who cares? This ain't minimalist it's eccentric.

I can picture the older witches in " Practical Magic" wearing this, yet somehow Olive Oil in Popeye also comes to mind.--But she's speaking French!.

I'm sorry, people, I'm confused and so is this scent. Bottom line? You don't have to be an oddball who rejoices in body lotion, and potted plants, but I think it would really help.

Come summer I may give it a thumbs up, but at present I feel this is a bit too unisex garden party frivolous, as if Provence had been conquered by children wearing Clinique Happy.
This one is about Grapefruit and Cedar. The other notes are minor and and flat. Still, it's an upbeat scent you might enjoy.
No, you do not have to have a collection of Teddy Bears or miniature porcelain tea sets, but I think it would help.

An attempt to make Equipage more macho, or at least have stronger sillage and longevity by adding notes not listed on the pyramid that could be curry, onions, sulphur or mud. Nevertheless I can't bring myself to give Bel Ami a thumbs down--it's still too good for that-- and shall contain myself to pointing out that the earlier Equipage was better, though it demanded a bit more patience before socking you on the nose. Furtthermore, the early supposedly unisex original leather beast, Eau D' Hermes is still the best of the three. When it comes to leather, Mercury--or Hermes has been going retrograde.

Ah, the memories!
Wyatt and Doc in Tombstone practically reeking of Rosewood before we shot up the Clantons--Well, actually it was rosewater back then until Bat Masterson sent us a sample of 'rosewood'--Naw, I'm putting you on. Really it was Jacques Polge who sported a sixshooter, just in case Jean Guichard or Pierre Bourdon would cross the line. They never did.

But there was Fatima O' Toole, my favorite belly dancer at Dar Maghreb's in Hollywood back in the late 80's---What red blooded male could resist her? Especially with her grace, ample curves, natural red hair and- to top ot off--dental braces? I mean, give it up! ( I believe she ended up as a realtor in the valley) And that wonderful smell permeating the tiled walls: Rosewood.

Tiffany for men is Rosewood from start to finish. Though the start may be too strong for some. Spritz lightly. This is a superb oriental that I do not, unlike other reviewers, consider parrticularly powdery.
It is well blended with, among other spices, nutmeg. How differently does it works here than in Cacharel PH!
Both soothe the soul, but while Cacharel says: " Give me a hug for Christmas " This one says-- well never mind. There are gentlemen present . . .
All in all I beleive this Polge feller had talent to spare, n'est-ce pas?

A wonderful fragrance, sharing top honors with Dunhill '34 and Jean Patou, though not as warm as either. Nevertheless, a mastepiece of elegance. Sooner or later the question must be faced: Do I want to smell like a worldly executive with impeccable taste, or do I just want to get laid?

Reading the Female Fragrance Forum, and its credo that " It's not the scent, it's the man." I believe it's a reasonable assumption that you will not be promoted to CEO of the Universe, nor even offered a free line of Saville Row suits, simply because you wear this EDT.

And yet . . .

Waiter! There are flowers in my ocean soup . . .
This is a mildly elegant and mildly pleasing frag which is quite charming for summer. I can't contribute a definitive answer as to whether or not this is the most classic fragrance named 1805 to have been manufactured in 1998 but I suspect it to be so.
T&H's interpretation of oceanic is interesting. The composition might strike some women as feminine, others as uber-macho, Regardless, it's a light delicate citrus/ocean scent which is not generic--at least not compared to the offerings we get in the USA at department stores.
I don't find it one dimensional, nor do I think it vanishes in an hour. However it does morph down to the sandalwood, cedarwood and musk in a relatively short time.

I really should give it a thumbs up objectively, but who on earth rates frags objectively? Neutral for a pleasant summer scent, probably best suited for officewear.

Perhapsthe negative reviewers were somewhat influenced by the old barbershop pedigree of T&H, and weren't quite ready for a hair salon.

What a weird scent! Are we sure the pyramid notes are not upside down? For me it begins with a strong base of cedarwood and sandalwood with a hint of jasmine, but an hour afterwards turns into one of the most " perfumy " concoctions imaginable.
I'd say teenybopper feminine, but I have too high a regard for 13 year old girls that (excusably) wear Tommy Girl. Come to think of it, it's far more irritatingly floral than TG. Is it the Jasmine? Cardamon, cilantro or cumin? Spices Gone Wild?
I neither know nor care, but this barbershop has gone mod mondo bizarro.
I wonder what Admiral Nelson would think? Oh Well, can't win 'em all . . .

There's a slight resemblance to Pascal Morabito's OR Black for about five and a half seconds after the top notes settle, then it's wood-bland nothingness. Not horrible by any means but let us remember that the line between the uderstated and the boring can be easily crossed. For me, this one crosses it to the wrong side.

The pink pepper heart note is apparent from the start and dominates the entire composition. This is supposed to be a warm masculine scent, but it ain't Jean Patou PH. Somewhere closer to Vera Wang with a heftier price tag perhaps?
The woodsy basenotes accord is the best part but by the time we get there the question must be answered: how many spritzes should be applied to land in between barely noticable sillage and making the cats sneeze. Sorry, but I render a neutral verdict on this. Nice try.

A wonderful spring scent. It's all been said. It's clean but not in the way modern scents are labeled clean. The lavender anchors the spices and the clove, a tricky note in perfumery, is delightful. It's not the demented clove of Jacomo de Jacomo, a favorite sinus rocket, but as usual with this house, a bright and cheery part of the entire composition. Do yourselves a favor and sample this 1911 classic. Do me a favor and the next time a newbie asks on the forums what would be suitable for an 21 year old, or younger; suggest English Fern.

O, the pity of it!
It does starts out with a wonderfully enchanting accord of high grade neroli which is both masculine and understated.
Hey, this is made a by one of the old-fashioned Brit houses, so you can bet your tweeds and your pipe it's going to be understated, you Platinum Egoiste mod freaks, so there!

But then the musk notes kick in and unless you're caught in a rainstorm in London or better still, in an Artic expedition, the heat transforms the whole thing into something rather vile and violent. The notes start fighting each other rather than harmonizing and---well, suffice it to say I'd rather wear Kouros. Honestly, It would smell far better in the heat than Castile.

Well, it's simple. One of the finest citrus frags I have ever had the pleasure of wearing.
So niche, I'd never heard of it--my thanks to a fellow BN'er who I won't name for fear of trespassing on his modesty but to whom I am indebted for turning me on to this gem. Yes, there are hidden gems--even among niche scents :)

As other reviwers have observed, it is perfectly balanced and possesses that rare quality among citrus frags, longevity.

Yes it is indeed elegant, and sophisticated, to which one can add: very clean and yet with a surprising musky undertone. It is a brilliant composition.

Iskaner is not dramatic like Eau d'Orange Verte the 1812 Overture of citrus scents, ( cannons required). Instead, it is delightful-- like Mozart Sonata in--Aw, hell, for crying out loud, already, you get the idea.

Sorry to be so effusive, people. But this one rocks!

Wear it for formal events if you will, or for any time that the sun is shining, the breeze is soothing and life is good.

The second soapiest vetiver I've ever smelled--the first being Adolfo Dominguez. Good for a summer scent. I agree with those who pointed out that it hasn't the greatest longevity, mildly agree with the comparisons to TM, but OV is far, far better. I don't care TM costs less. Hell I don't care if they'd pay me to wear Mugler, OV is better.

Yes, this soapy vetiver does have that ' Old Money ' smell about it.

If you find a hidden 18th century manuscript in your attic which reveals that Oliver Creed also made a killing with a chain of barbershops , I would not be too surprised. Damn. Too bad about Sweeney Todd, there could have been a musical in this . . .

Neither Eau de Rochas, Loewe Para Hombre, Versace l'Homme (1984) nor Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermes need shake in their boots with fear. On the other hand, Armani Eau PH and a hundred other trendy lime-lemon citrus bombs which would rightly be forgotten but for the designer label should hang their heads in shame.
This is an uplifting el cheapo, which does for citrus what that other cheapo, Clinique Happy does for oranges--in fact it does it better.
And to add to that, what SirSlarty said, word for word.
Get yer compliments!

Well, it's actually less spicy than Aramis.

I suspect, though I cannot prove it, that of all fragrances ever made Brut has had more jokes written about it from stand-up comics, playwrights and sketch writers.

I wish I could document this hypothesis.

Begins with a citrus that has a 'sour melon' note reminiscent of Acqua di you know who, but the lemons keep it happy, dries to a heart note of interesting rain/ocean Jr. Erolfa which only last about half and hour, then the rest ends in a feminine scent that most women would find too flowery. Does it have any virtue? Yes. It's overpriced. Go Amouage! The niche shall make thee rich.
Pass.

Bold? Well it does have extraordinary sillage. I believe this is the only review in which I thoroughly agree with everything everyone has said, both good and bad. If you wish to leave a trail of strong yet sweetened fumes as you walk through a corridor, this is it. On the other hand perhaps you should avoid corridors or any closed in spaces altogether.

A pleasant surprise; especially for those of us who are not Boss fans. This one is placid like S. Dali's Laguna and also has the attractive power of Acqua di Gio yet without any sour notes.
Better than the original Baldessarini formula. Good staying power, too.
Nothing to go crazy about, though. Hard to justify rebuying it with so many " 5 star frags " out there . . .

Not for me. Amber with herbs? Orientals are my favorite category, but I have to pass on this one. Mix Prada with Aramis, add a dash of Avignon and sprinkle heavily with Piper Nigrum. Forget it, we're getting silly here.
What! A Serge Lutens fragance silly??
I should be arrested by the niche police as a thought criminal . . .

Glad that more sophisticated noses than mine enjoy this one. No, no irony inteded. To me, however, this smells like Erolfa with an iodine band-aid around it. I'll pass. Strongly suggest sampling before buying

Well, if you don't want to cough up the dough and buy Vintage Tabarome, and too many wonen are coming on to you when you wear Michael by Michael Kors, yet you want a tobacco scent, there's, Cuba Red. An el cheapo that's in the same class as the ever so popular Dolce & Gabbana PH. but not like everyone else who is wearing D & G and having said all that; frankly, why bother?

Holy 80's! One of the better offerings of the Drakkar Noir decade. Great woody/chypre. Makes The Third Man quite pedestrian by comparison. Quorum exorcised. A seemingly simple citrus that turns out to be quite complex. An underrated sleeper.

Naw . . .it's not quite lemon pledge. It can be inoffensive officewear, but after all is said and done, it gets boring rather quickly.
I'll pass on this one.

This is Robert Piguet's true masterpiece.

I feel the need to praise it after my somewhat unchivalrous comments towards Bandit, which I still maintain--er, never mind. Suffice it to say Bandit enthusiasts should try Caron's Tabac Blond, and the men's Dunhill '34 among others--

Fracas does the magic T to near perfection. Yes, I'm a tuberose freak, so it's difficult to remain objective.

But consider that Fracas is a floral which is so well balanced that it's never irritatingly 'floral' nor 'fresh'

Perhaps Luca Turin was smoking something he could not spell when he praised Tommy Girl to the sky; a juice that suffers greatly from both sins.

What kind of woman should wear Fracas?

I think it would help if she were drop dead gorgeous, or have a sense of casual style that would have put Jackie O. to shame.

It's a 'young woman's' frag only in the sense that it's upbeat and optimistic-- for someone who anticipates something wonderful and unexpected around the corner.

( Allegedly characteristics of youth, if memory serves. )

Now, having mentioned Dunhill '34 instead of Bandit for women, I must ask myself--can men can wear this?

Absolutely, if you're an androgynous rock star; otherwise you may be pushing the envelope too much.

Mind you, as usual, this is all simply my subjective, personal and infallible opinion.

Well, it's a kind of pseudo aristocratic Tommy Girl, or Tommy Boy.
Anyway, one of the Tommys . . .
Yawn.

You Have Got To Be Kidding! They discontinued this? And I thought the think tank at Aramis was comprised of total twits for discontinuing Havana.

Damn! I don't even own a full bottle.

Well, it's all been corroborated by independant witnesses, judge. It's sophisticated, warm, elegant, sexy and distinctive. I rest my case.

--------

These are the notes:

Top--bergamot and clary sage oils, green note, lemon, pimento.

Middle-carnation, cedarwood oil, cinammon, fruit notes, geranium, jasmine, patchouli, pine needle, sandalwood.

Base--amber, labdanum, leather, moss, musk, oilbanum, styrax, vanilla.

Now, there are survivors of the 80's--but why kill this masterpiece yet keep alive pedestrian ones?

Well, my guess is that, as in the case of the defunct Jean Patou PH, most acqua-androgynous wearing teens would--if they ever got a chance to smell it, dub it an 'old man's cologne'

*sigh*

Now let's see, would I rather drive a modern Sports Utility (contradiction in terms!) Vehicle or an old man's Phantom V Rolls Royce?

Boy, now there's a tough choice. . .

Not for me. The opening is much too sweet to be wise. It settles down after a couple of hours (no complaints aout longevity with this one) and is then bearable. Really best suited for the 'Yumsters!' crowd.
Development is amazing, though.
At the end, you'd swear you've worn several different frags. Drydown is quite good but there's a weird herbal mid-note ( I should talk, I love Minotaure ) that is off-putting.
I can appreciate it as a work of the perfumer's art, just not anything I'd care to wear.

I'll take zztop's word that the oakmoss will be prominent in cooler weather, as all we've had now in Sothern California is scorching summer three months in advance. I can attest he's absolutely correct that the bitter orange is most prominent in the heat. Hell, the petigrain is still going strong hours later! The leather does put in an appearance, but at times this seemed closer to Piper Nigrum than V.I.P. or Gomma or any of the purer (read more linear)leather scents.

Bad boy? Tenacity? A 9+ on the macho meter? In total agreement with pluran as well.

But there's really nothing to truly compare this frag to. It's a one of a kind " You're messing with the wrong guy." type of scent. No it doesn't have monster sillage. It doesn't have to.

If I were a wealthy philanthtropist, I'd buy a bottle for every BaseNoter that has Cuiron in his wardrobe, or who gave it a favorable review.
I doubt you'd ever go back to it.
This one is citrus and leather done correctly. The notes are enhancing, not fighting each other.

A strange and fabulous brew.

Well, I don't know much about herbal mint, but I know what I like.

This one is stunning. A victory over the forces of evil in my battle to find good citrus frags. And yes, longevity is quite decent.

Especially good on hot days, as noted. No, it's not absurdly expensive. It's just that SV comes only in 8.4 oz flacons.

So, skip on two GITs and git this instead.
Cheers.

I had high hopes, but have to turn in a neutral verdict. A newbie described it on The Forum as what he'd expect a 16th century pirate to smell like--I can't top that comment!

It has strong sillage and enormous longevity, but in this case, that's not a favorable comment.

Rum Absolute is like nitroglycerin, and here it explodes in your face from the get go.

Perhaps Giacobetti did include other notes as listed but you'll have to wait all day for them to come forth.

Cool bottle and an interesting idea, but way over the top. Neutral.

With special apologies to those reviewers--which I really admire, btw--who think this is a sophisticated gentlemen's fragrance ( And to film reviewer Joe Bob Briggs ) but to me this is a minus 4 on the macho meter.

Cinnabar? Yep. Perhaps Estee came up with a novel way of keeping women at bay from her husband.

( Some interesting discussions in the forums about resemblances to Opium, as well, both PH and the original classic.)

Well, it's not bad by any means--just not for me. I gave it away along with Muscs Ravageur to an old flame. What the hell, I owed her one--she broke up my marriage.

And yes, I do enjoy Zino, Bulgari Black, and company. As a matter of fact, Orientals are my favorite category.
Cheers.

Well I've no idea if Ian Fleming chose Eucris for Bond or whether it was Dunhill or Floris and I confess I haven't lost sleep over it. In any case this is an old world gentleman's frag (1912) that would probably be as expensive as Jean Patou or Versailles PH if it ever were discontinued.
Great development, complex, and masculine. Get it while you can.
Cheers.

Great, complex scent that has good longevity and wears close to the skin. Reminds me of both Havana and Patou PH Privee (2nd cousins, perhaps?)

Which begs the question, why did they re-fromulate it into the citrus bomb of the 'unoriginal' blue box Montana of 2001? I can only think of one reason, the new one must have been cheaper to manufacture.

Get the real thing.

A citrus bomb that lasts forever, unlike 99% of the citrus frags out there. Tried it for a week, found it too overbearing; gave it to a friend and he reported tons of compliments from the babelets at work.

*sigh*

In fact he re-ordered this! He's now a minor league frag addict.
It's the one that comes in a blue box, not the original masterpiece.

Want a lecher--um, I mean a man's opinion? Still great after all these years. Yes I'm also referring to this frag. Been copied and inspired some masterpieces and some very insipid failures, but who cares? Opium is intoxicating and heady stuff. Something no wicked, decadent girl should be without.

Musky officewear just about covers it.
Yes, it does have some similarity to D&G. This is a good thing?
Nay.

This is a chic, G.Q. scent that I used to love but became tiresome with repetition. Still, since I wore it at the office and my job sucked it may have had something to do with it.

Citric, light, floral, spices and a sweet drydown.

Sounds familiar?

True, it won't win awards for originality nowdays--despite the absinthe note--though it would have easily done so in the Oakmoss 80's.

Ah well, absinthe makes the heart grow fonder . . .

I owned this for 15 minutes and then went back to the store where I traded it for L'Occitane Vetiver. A happy ending to the story. This is a fair scent but tries too hard to be bubbly.
Check it out.

A very good bang for your buck. Nothing earth shattering or terribly memorable, but fresh and sporty for the summer.
See also 212 h20 and Perry Ellis 360 red for the best of the cheapos that get the job done. Iceberg Twice is at the top of the list.

Hmm . . .I used to love this one when I first got hooked into this addiction, but then----well, perhaps I'm just jaded, but it doesn't hold a candle these days to my favorite 5 star fragrances whether they're woods, fougere, or boardroom powerhouse scents.
*sigh*
Farewell!

A bit of a sleeper. Not great, but for a relatively inexpensive scent, you'll get an acquatic bargain. This one fell through the cracks with all the discussions about the original 212 vs the 212 on ice, etc.

What the blazez is this? By the beard of The Prophet! If Millesime Imperiale by Creed was created for an Arab King, this one must have been made for his embarassingly gauche, noveau riche, slightly effeminate 5th cousin, twice removed.

Well, it is one choice for the hot summers, and it's not entirely godawful, just very, very 'perfumy'
Pass.

Somewhere between the horror of Quorum and the lunatic howling of Jacomo de Jacomo comes this 80's right cross to the jaw.
Even stronger than Jacomo, but without any of its redeeming qualities, this is the one that will get fragrances banned from your workplace. Or get you fired.
Pass on this King Kong smell and Godzilla sillage.
Or give it to someone who whines about scents with poor longevity.

Alas! I had such high hopes based on all the buzz in the BN forums, but my hopes were dashed.
A timeless classic? A gentlemen's club from the 1920's? Boozy and heady whiskey?

More like a fruity wine spritz cocktail with seven-up. All that's missing is the paper umbrella.

Still, if you like the (to me) strange notes, drink up!

A hyped dumbass oriental gourmand. May not be as obnoxiously strong as A*Men but I fail to see anything else that may be said in its favor.
These notes do not blend well at all. Try Rochas Man, try Jo Malone's Black Vetiver Cafe; or simply break your diet and go to the nearest retro 50's diner and order a chocolate shake.
You'll be much happier for it.

Good juice. Nothing spectacular to me, but well constructed and certainly worth a try.
Who knows? You might find your understated signature love.
I detect no resemblance to GIT, let alone Coolwater.
Of the Floris scents that I've tried, this runs almost neck to neck with No. 89, which is an entirely different animal. Interesting . . .

My, this house is getting a bit generic and dull here. You want citrus with your Floris? Get JF instead.

Will, it ain't 5 stars, but it's worth owning!
Look up ' aromatic ' in a book on perfumery, and you should find a picture of Bowling Green.

Some people go through life without ever smelling an aromatic. How sad.

Now let's see. Should I get Hendrick's or Seagram's Extra Dry to go with Hansen's Tonic and a dash of lime?
Hmm, weighty question. Must consult The I Ching. . .

Spice it up!
It's a kind of Tabarome Millesime meets Eucris.
Is this still really in production? Difficult to find, but well worth the effort. Very bold yet very elegant.
No, it does not have monsteer sillage, but neither does it need it. You will turn heads.
The play on violet and jasmine with wooods is--Oh, for heaven's sake, just buy it, would you?
Truly a one of a kind frag. Thumbs up!

I like this very formal scent but can't say I'm crazy about it, nor would I re-buy. To my nose, it's a dark, smooth leather mixed with olive oils.
Weird.

And yet another negative review. Not so much bad, as completely unsure of itself.
Is it Sandalwood?
Is it afraid of Sandalwood?
What's going on here? Or to be more accurate, what isn't going on that should?
Strongly recommend sampling before buying--and trying to remember what it smelled like a day later.
This composition dissolves into silence.

A most forgettable vetiver. In fact, after the top notes die down the frag itself begins to forget it.

Luten's fruitcake/honey schtick is beginning to wear a bit thin. May work on other scents that thrive on creamy smoothness above all else, but it sure doesn't work here.

Good dry citrus, 3 out of 5 stars. The opening is the best phase, imho. This is one that I can admire but not love.

I like this juice but it's an odd duck. Strong citrus opening and smooth base, but the heart is just plain flowery soft. Not that it calls attention to itself as in Egoiste or Dunhill '34--or other great frags, it just says 'hello, I am here' in an undistinguished, inoffensive way; which, depending on your way of thinking is understated class or just plain officewear.

Is this the well made upper class version of Coolwater, Gendarme 20, Orange Vert or Monsieur Balmain?
Wow! A laid back, smooth masterpiece. I can't wait to try Patou PH!

Very good citrus scent. Agree with Jeff that it's an all round year scent. Still there's something tangy and crisp about it that blazes away in summer! Hmm . . .Where did I put my gin (Tanqueray 10, of course) and tonic?

A most elegant and restrained citrus whose acquaintance I would never had made but for the generosity of Scentemental.
(A big thanks!)
It's complex and a one of a kind fragrance.
Perhaps best suited to Spring than sizzling Summer? You do not want to waste a drop of this juice.

Well, I can't top pluran's reviewe of this!
Yes it might feel 'old school' to some or 'oficewear' to others.

Yet this is what the far better known Eau Savage tries to be and fails. Fails? It's positively cheap by comparison.
One of the few well done citrus scents. Signorricci is another. Why are they so hard to create?

Fans of the original should stay away.

In fact, even those of us who are not fans of the original should flee to the hills! What were they thinking?

This is NOT a concentrated version of ES which lasts longer, but a different animal altogether. It seems to be concocted of 1/3 Pino Silvestre, 1/3 Route du Vetiver and 1/3 herbal poison. Run Away!

Clean and mediocre. Even more bland than the " silver " version. Poor longevity. Otherwise it's not terrible. Pass.

Bought this blind, it was advertised as a man's scent.

Well, with the following of M7, most Serge Lutens, Opium PH and co, it's macho as hell--- er, almost.

When, of all people, Marlen informs us that it may be 'challenging' for a man to wear this, far be it for me to gainsay him!

Happy ending. Gave it to a friend and she's a tuberose addict.

Now, while I agree with the criticism of 'where's the tuberose?'--There are much closer 'purer' tuberose scents, for those who have actually smelled the magic flower; nevertheless this is a bold and well crafted creation that blends several florals, puts an oriental spin on them, without going fruity-sugary, and gives it strength, power and complexity.

Bottom line? If you're into 'upbeat playful' stick to Fracas for your dose of the magic T.

However, if you like orientals that are not cloying, this one's definitely worth a sniff.

The best of all the Caswell-Massey offerings; which is to say, it's only mediocre rather that a total snoozefest. You might like this one if you're into 'fresh' sandalwood. Or if you think Gendarme is too bold and edgy.

Glad John Barrymore enjoyed it. Guess he wasn't partial to Jicky.

Weird and slightly unpleasant, but in an inoffensive way. Cool bottle, though.

Well, there are worse. Stetson, Raw Vanilla and other Coty abominations come to mind.
This one is, as noted earlier, a dime store cologne.

How the mighty have fallen!

A rather generic acquatic. Not worth the effort. Neither important nor unusual enough to really dislike. Bland.

Ah, the memories this synthetic, fever reducing, alcohol-blasting coolant bings back!

Being 9 years old in Cuba and splashing some 4711 in the inside folds of the handkerchief which I carried in the breast pocket of my jacket, on the way to Mass.

I wanted to use Bay Rum, like my dad. But granny thought it was too macho and precocious for a child. So I got stuck with 4711.

Despite all this, there just might be a God . . .

Weird. The almond's too bitter to smell like almond, and the heliotrope is too sweet. Overall, like with so many Lutens, it's a variation on crystallized honey.
Miel for Serge!

Yes! We have no bananas!

Newsprint and fish and chips would be loony enough, but--banana peel?

A good acquatic that should really not be in the marine category--no Erolfa like seasalt breezes here.
Quasar belongs in the happy lunacy category, along with the likes of Xeryus Rouge ( Cactus Flesh? Little House of Horrors? ) Nostalgia ( Motor Oil? ) and Peau d'Espagne ( Tabasco sauce on leather? )
Four out of five stars.
Enjoy!

Hmm . . .all these references to Santos remind me of the bridge of death skit in Monty Python and The Holy Grail

Bridgekeeper: "Is that the new formula Santos or the old formula Santos? "

Knight: "I don't know---AAARrggghh!!"

In any case, how blessed are the humble! For in eschewing niche and geting Z-14, they shall have the biggest bang for their buck.

This was painfully average and forgettable. Wish I could be kinder. On the other hand, for the prices MPG charges, that's kind enough.

The only reason I could think for wearing this is to freak out all the Yatagan users, especially if you go to steakhouses for dinner and they order their meat rare--stand on the table, and yell at the waiter to bring in a live cow and a sharp knife.

Pass on this, yes even in minute quantities. Pass on A*men in minute quantities, How about layering one with--never mind, let's keep or food down . . .

This is vanilla heaven with great longevity and powehouse sillage. Not terribly complex, but gets the job done.

I first heard about this frag over at Perfume Emporium where they had(ready?) over 159 reviews! Mostly abouts how women drooled over this babe magnet.

Well, it's Bulgari Black for me, but if you're a gourmand addict with a sweet tooth for vanilla, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Interestingly, (if you don't overdose ) it's NOT cloying.

Huh? How can that be?

Probably because comparing it to most vanilla gourmands is like comparing cigarettes to aged Cohibas.

This is 100% revved up Puro Primo Vanilla

Maybe that's why they called it Ignition?

Much too medicinal. If I run out of quinine, will this halt malaria? Good for Panda Bears nostalgic for eucalyptus.
Not horrible, just horrible for the price and the 'hearken all ye gentlemen' hype. This is to Sandalwood what Michelson's is to Bay Rum. Pass.

Indeed, in comparison with Mugler's damnable H*ll, this is a masterpiece. Now if I could only smell it 30 minutes after applying it, I'd give it a thumbs up.

A great feminine floral green acquatic fruity composition with rose and jasmine that should only be bought in EDP. A signature scent of a current gf, and I can't fault her for her loyalty. As a previous reviewer noted, this is the one that she reaches for again and again.

I don't get it. It's a fight between sweet accords to see which one finally predominates. Mirror mirror on the wall who is the sweetest of them all?
Let me know who wins.
Nicheciosity. The Emperor is naked.

Someone once described this as essence of 50 year old male barfly.
Snobbish and untrue! It's essence of 50 year old country and western male barfly.

(Teenage boys whose mothers force them to buy flannel shirts at discount stores must also be taken into account)

I find the comment about it being hard to find rather odd: Go to your local Sears, and chances are it'll be on a shelf next to Stetson and other Coty masterpieces.

Linear and ultimately boring.

However, If you are a vanillaholic but can't stomach PI, or any of the more popular offerings, may I humbly suggest you move up a notch: Search the net and get the el puro premium drug bold vanilla with whipped cream:
Lomani's Ignition.

Somewhere between Generic-Zegna mod elegant and Salvador Dali PH (yes, the one with the lips) very good development. An elegant and little known frag.

I wore it once. The cats sneezed. Whatever this is, it is NOT well blended.
An OK overhyped GQ scent.

It gets boring very quickly. I like oranges but I have to agree 100% with teflondog on this one. Yep, it's an orange--gone linear

Embittered. Sour and cheap smelling in comparison to other orange frags. Pass on this one

It's a citrus! It's a chypre! No! It's--It's--

The most bizarre (good smelling) frag I own.

Can't make head or tails out of it. One reviewer used the word 'chameleon' to describe it. I concur. I also concur with the positive comments about how well blended New York is, but it's time to take a break from all those upward thumbs.

New York starts out as a happy and well bred man about town.
From there it transforms itself to, among other creatures:

A hip and sexy woman's playfull scent ( No, I'm not kidding, see The Female Discussion Forum )

A prim little old lady's eau de nostalgia.

A stuffy, ever so formal gentlemen's club.

And--after a few more spins, ends up as what it started.

Whew! I think if you like Jicky, BdP and most Lutens, you'll really enjoy this one.

Allright, so I still like Havana better, but if I were to wear a "pure" Bay Rum that's dashing, masculine, complex and sparkling this is the one!

A dark, brooding, yet tame vetiver.
Not bad. Good one to reach for if Guerlian demands you to be too Alpha-Male "Isn't it great to be alive" happy, while you're in a rotten mood.

Scent of our Fathers, and their Fathers before them.

So unfashionable you will stand out in the crowd. Not much competition. Look up Bay Rum in the search engine and you'll find:

Bay Rum Burt's Bees
Bay Rum D.R. Harris & co.
Bay Rum Aftershave Cologne Colonel Ichabod Conk
Bay Rum Geo F Trumper
Michelson Bay Rum Caswell-Massey
Bay Rum Taylor of Old Bond Street
St Johns Bay Rum West Indies Bay Company
Clubman Virgin Island Bay Rum Pinaud

And that's it.

(Skip Michelson, an el cheapo and pass on St Thomas, which is not mentioned, oddly enough, but is only slightly better--in fact skip on any plastic bottles)

Royall has complexity, and that rarest of qualities in Bay Rum: Longevity.

El Cheapo. Go with Royall or St. John's. This barbershop is closed.

5 stars all the way, Minotaure's younger, GQ brother. He's not as powerfully built, his face is classical rather than rugged, and he has no grey around the temples.
But what he lacks in worldly experience he makes up in charm, and the ladies are taken by his smooth approach. A joy to wear.

A sinus-rocket! Strong opening and a ton of clove doen't even begin to describe it. May kill a bloodhound at a 100 feet.
It is manly, it is the antithesis of bland, fresh acquas, and it is dark.
Best for walking the forests of Transylvania after a summer's rain. But would it be Van Helsing or Dracula that would use it? Or both?
Good stuff. Not for kids.
This one's rated R for violence.

Winter, Rainy days. Pensive. Combination of fruit and fougere; John Varvatos's upper-class uncle. Perhaps too introspective? Four out of five stars. You'll soon come to love it or leave it.

Get the vintage and save the ginger for your sushi. This is a good scent, but compared to the original it's like drinking non-alcoholic beer, rather than a fine, aged wine.

Not enough o's in smooth to describe this one. Woody and Spicy? Naw . . . that's a bit of a cheat. It's the carnation, ambrette, and the rose at the heart that make it happen in anamazing balancing act.

Frankly, I am of two minds here: A well dressed handsome gentleman (ahem)could certainly pull this off with elegance and finesse. On the other hand, I do get images of black and white 1930's movies, when the pin striped, flower lapeled, pencil-thin mustachioed, floor walker of a department store approaches with an unctous " May I help you? "

Final answer? For me, four out of five stars. If you haven't done so yet, you should really give this one a try. Thumbs up!

A rather light unisex frag that luckyscent markets as suitable for men compared to Goldmund which they claim to be a woman's scent--whatever.
In any case it's a light citrus with green accords that's gone in about 30 seconds and has little sillage Wait till they come out with an EDP version. Unlike Hesse's masterpiece, nothing special in this one. It's just little known and niche. Whopee.

Which Santos are we talking about? The new one opens with a blast of citrus green settles down to a dark chypre and disappears after a rather short time. Not as loud or obnoxious as Chanel's Platinum Egoiste, but you'll get attention---make that positive attention, if you wear it as an evening frag. The old Santos was something else, discontinued and hard to find. I'ts 'gourmand ' all right, but not chocolate/vanilla sweet; if anything it resembles Yatagan, minus the bizarre celery note. Not the Holy Grail, but well worth the find. Thumbs up for the old formula.

beyond masculinity
beyond sugar
beyond cheap
Is this intentded as a caricature of the lighter tropical juices in the CSP line?

A romantic masterpiece, now discontinued. Sad, like long lost glory.

The Sun King indeed! Aristocracy incarnate. No, not ill-fitting tuxedos from middle class suburbia, but blue jeans and raw silk shirts as one lounges in style, languidly holding court . . .

A blast from the past! Lavender and aromatic, sweet and masculine, elegant yet fun. This one is funky refinement! An upbeat winner.

Dr. Frankenstein, I regret to inform you that, as usual, your experiments have gone horribly wrong.
Stick to reviving rotten corpses through unnatural forces, it'll smell better than this--Just what is this ? Marine?? I think not, Doc.

Romantic, heartbreaking, bittersweet oriental

Has the true 'Middle Eastern Arabic' spiced scent which gave us the word Oriental in perfumery, yet this gem remains relatively unknown. The balance between amber-sweet and pepper-pungent is amazing. Keep in mind that this review is coming from someone who dislikes anything even remotely cloying and has (thank you so bloody much, CdG) practically Od'd on incense. This one's a keeper.

Memorie D'Graperfruit. Great Deco bottle, annoying scent. Unless one needs a reminder to go on a low carb diet, pass on this one.

Cool bottle, mediocre scent. After the top notes die down, you're sailing on a sea of sugar. Pass.

Odd reviews. Can't smell any clove whatsoever. Nor would I describe this as oceanic. It's a fresh, light and very fruity scent whose main virtue is its uncommon usage.

Quite simply, Dunhill's best. Masculine and distinct. It has the power of the great fragrances of the 30's without the musty or oily overtones. Hard to name a warmer, more refined scent.