Reviews by Mar Azul

    Mar Azul's avatar
    Mar Azul
    Bulgaria Bulgaria

    Showing 31 to 60 of 81.
    rating


    L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

    This is the instant smell I get when entering a perfume or gift shop. I don't know exactly why. Is it the dark vanilla ambiance spray? The cocoa/chocolate, a smell imprinted so deep in our brains it's almost archetypal? Is it because the assistants keep spraying A*Men in the air showing the average costumer a new exciting path out of the beaten path of his beloved but overused Hugo? Or, on the other hand, is it actually the combined smell of the whole Boss and CK sections at once?
    Anyway, it's a smell saying "I'm not in the drugstore anymore"; an instant sign of quality perfumery which, however, lacks any personality. You could recognize some Guerlainesque boozy-gourmand accord in the heart but only if you're looking for it and I also doubt that this is the point. There's a perfect green accord somewhere there as well but again you have to force yourself to appreciate it. There are many other things actually, none of them brave enough.
    Without being cheap or trivial, L'Instant just escapes from the radar, setting a new definition of "generic". And it is perfectly wearable, as is cocoa butter lotion.

    27 December, 2010 (Last Edited: 27 November, 2012)

    rating


    Pi by Givenchy

    Boozy vanilla and spice oriental concoction, aged the way liquors age: its sweetness is a smoky sweetness. Benzoin works perfectly here, adding incense character to the fragrance, but it's a 'liquid incense' as opposed to 'dry incense'.
    Thick aromatic liquid, this is what it is. It creates a thick dreamy layer over your own persona though; then you'll certainly have to deal with it, move within it, speak through it. Better than Jaipur. Groundbreaking.

    27 December, 2010

    rating


    SoCal Cologne by Hollister

    My very first thought when I first tried SoCal was: "Christmas!", immediately - because of three things:
    1. It smelled like pine needles.
    2. It reminded me of Davidoff Cool Water Game which I received as a Christmas gift last year;
    3. It was December already.
    It's not a simple cologne by no means. It's fresh, but its freshness comes from cedar and pine. Then it's sweet but just in the right measure with pineapple, pear or I don't know what, this is the part that reminded me of Coll Water Game.
    Then after a while an amber/vanilla accord comes on stage to surprise me completely. It's a complex scent with many faces, you could call it woody, fruity, almost oriental in the dry down.
    (Dry down is actually the part that really surprised me with its almost gourmand presence, still accompanied by woods)
    It evokes a beautiful picture of a beach with some clouds, driftwood on the shore, then a warm house with a view to the ocean. Not sporty, not cheap-smelling, it succeeds to be light and cozy at the same time. It's the type of perfume you would choose if you had to choose just one bottle for all places.

    24 December, 2010

    rating


    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Kyoto by Comme des Garçons

    Let black roast coffee and vetyver play the incense part.
    Modern / ingenious.

    30th November, 2010 (Last Edited: 27 November, 2012)

    rating


    Sienne L'Hiver by Eau d'Italie

    A close-up photograph of wet winter soil in a field, in a place where it never actually snows. Definitely Mediterranean but from a quite uncommon point of view. Yes, there are winters in this region, too. Quite insensible on me although it's a beautiful photograph. I guess it would be miraculous on the right woman.You see, no man can be that tender, and it requires a pinch of tenderness to complement this cold but lively soil.

    18 November, 2010

    rating


    Brit for Men by Burberry

    A smooth and warm oriental, a nutmeg enhanced with mandarins which later turns to raw cocoa on me. Perfect when sharing a bed with a lover. Yet it's just everywhere, which in this case makes me avoid it. Well, that's all.

    27 October, 2010

    rating


    Comme des Garçons 2 Man by Comme des Garçons

    I often return to this one just to see how rough it is. Couldn't get more basic incense smell than this. Incense is often linked to religion. Incense in CdG 2 precedes any human use of incense. It's an exotic piece of resin from another planet, hardly evoking any kind of associations to other things human, rituals, spiritual practices. it's just there, raw and primordial, brown and smokey. Somehow reminds me of rocks and barks, autumnal shadowy landscape in a strange anomalous zone.

    12 October, 2010

    rating


    Diesel Zero Plus by Diesel

    First I tended to like it. Mostly because it reminded me of the 90s in a very warm and touching way. Maybe there were too many people wearing this around me back then and maybe it reminded me the smell of Diesel stores then although I just suppose this.
    Nevertheless, this remained the only trick of this fragrance for me. It just somehow falls apart to its parts, no consistence. It's the cherry-cinnamon coke - spicy 'red' part and then the dry powdery base, a little similar to Burberry Touch but without any depth and much cheaper smelling. So it's like the fragrance is divided in these two layers and they never connect in a convincing way.
    I thought Zero Plus would make a nice everyday fragrance but this doesn't work for me either: too obvious somehow . Maybe romantic, but in the way certain shots in fashion magazines are romantic: you don't actually see people with feelings, you see the clothes. But even if this is your kind of thing, you'd want to go for something more up-to-date.

    12 October, 2010

    rating


    Gomma by Etro

    I really don't see a significant difference between Gomma and Aramis. Strange enough, when I first smelled it, I didn't know yet about that quinoline-tar-leather note in Aramis, Bandit, Cabochard, Knize Ten. So I really perceived the smell as rubber and it was rubber quite literally to my nose, as in car tires. Now that I've already became a fan of Bandit and similar fragrances, I smell just the same bitter raw ingredient here, almost left on his own. It's again those hot car tires smelled from the inside, but from reading a lot of reviews I had learned to call it "leather" instead of "rubber". Anyways, words aside, in this category Bandit takes all the action while Gomma and Aramis are the 'linear' guys who just deliver. Wish I could smell more flowers here.

    28 September, 2010

    rating


    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

    Two words: November in Amsterdam. Maybe has something to do with the channels, I can't say for sure but this scent immediately evokes the picture. Foliage, soil after the rain and at the same time something fresh, geranium - like. The only note that reveals how old actually Grey Flannel is, is the oakmoss... They just don't use it this way anymore. Oakmoss aside, this is THE scent for cloudy weather. Poetry of clouds and transparent air. I'm a fan of Narciso Rodriguez for Him, as much as of the very idea behind it. Well, compared to Grey Flannel, Narciso Rodriguez is an explosion of notes. This is how simple Grey Flannel is.

    Oh, and I'm sure already: violet is the most alien note that i know. Urban and human at the same time, chemical and natural, it always speaks quite clearly of a certain existential situation, like the air after the rain with its molecules tweaked by a strange, out-of-this world presence.

    26 September, 2010

    rating


    Acier by Bourjois

    This reminds me of both Chanel Egoiste and YSL Opium. It misses the velvet woody texture of Egoiste though for the sake of more 80's animalistic notes, creating a dull and thick scent just like Opium. Plus there are metallic hints in the first hour, in the same sense as when they say that blood has a metal taste. As said already, it's quite strong, but not in-you-face, its masculine aura very well controlled. And it's definitely outdated. I think one can put this on in an old fashioned smokey piano bar or jazz club or .. well you know, other types of old-fashioned places. Definitely an evening scent as well.

    23 August, 2010

    rating


    Sel de Vetiver by Different Company

    My reactions in a sequence.
    1. "Well... salt and vetiver"
    2. "A swimming pool in the morning, recently cleaned!"
    3. "It's the smell of the sea! How is that possible?"
    Note: this phase is DIVINE.Really, really... the sea.
    4. "Smells medicinal...The back of an old apothecary, where they store the pills and herbs..."
    5. "Well... vetiver and who knows - traces of some dark base, maybe patchouli... Goodbye, Sel de Vetiver. Thanks for the sea part."

    31st July, 2010

    rating


    8 88 by Comme des Garçons

    For me, saffron has never been a spectacular note which has much to say by its own; more of a humble, timid player, a little uncomfortable because of its cuisine relations, and behaving more like a taste than a smell in many occasions.
    And here it is, exposed, forced to be as loud and shiny as it gets. Geranium helps a lot in brightening its thick, dense quality, making it almost fresh and transparent in the beginning. Then an oriental mixture of amber, vanilla and maybe patchouli makes it warmer and really beautiful.
    Saffron is present from the beginning till end. But it's the notes that support it that hold my interest. In the end, 8 88 is a somehow tweaked oriental scent. Yet it has less presence than most orientals; it's a kind, humble friend who, although gaining attention, feels more comfort to stay in the shadow.

    13 July, 2010

    rating


    Jammin by Réminiscence

    Have you ever put leaves in the fire while they're still not completely dry? - this was my first impression. Almost dirty, autumn earth dirty. This could easily grab the attention of an incense lover, I guess mostly because of patchouli.It's not actually dry though - a pile of " wet burning leaves" with some jasmine petals spread on top, berries hidden here and there, and drops of oriental musk and vanilla giving it depth and a pinch of romantica.Quite a rude smell actually , without being offensive.
    A agree that Cannabis is a good suggestion but not necessarily.It depends though: Amsterdamers would have a very strong first associations. Like that you've spent the whole day in a coffeeshop wearing Jaipur.

    13 July, 2010

    rating


    Patchouly by Etro

    This scent made me think that patchouli is a brown, dry, 1000-years old leaf. They extracted the essence of it and then left it for another 100 years in an old wooden chest. They were very careful not to mix it with other things - sweet, fresh, light, or anything that could ruin its singularity, a dry pile of leaves in a wooden chest.
    I would never wear this with a t-shirt.

    13 July, 2010

    rating


    Chrome Legend by Azzaro

    Someone stole the Marc Jacobs cocofig and poured it in the original Chrome. Or they just got Marc Jacobs for Men and added a metallic/aquatic accord. Either ways, I like it more than MJ which gets plain boring in a very short time. And I actually like it more than the original Chome, especially for summer. Mind you, the fruity notes and everything else smells obviously synthetic, with no actual hint of any real note. I wear it like I'd wear a Comme des Garcons Synthetic perfume, opposed to any sophistication, any subtlety of notes, and I like it this way.

    18 June, 2010 (Last Edited: 11th March, 2011)

    rating


    Moschino Friends Men by Moschino

    Starts with nice, fresh, round, a bit creamy sunny green citrus notes which last no longer than 10 seconds, enough though to say "What a nice summer fragrance it *could* have been!". Then a generic synthetic bitter-fresh mixture comes in the light, spoiling most of it... bit oh well. If you have in mind Moschino's own 'Cheap & Chic' statement, you could even proudly wear this one. It's just this: cheap smelling, but somehow chic. It's a statement that somehow captures the popular spirit of our time. Just mind the irony and wear this one between friends.

    14 June, 2010

    rating


    Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels

    It's like the main purpose of both VCA classic masculine fragrances was to make them smell as rich and complex as possible. From this point of view it's logical that they issued only a pair of fragrances, somehow complementing each other on both sides of a certain spectrum. The notes of Tsar as well as in VCA Pour Homme, leave no space for air: it's somehow fresh indeed, but not light at all.
    Well, when I connect it to its name and the bottle, I'm really starting to think aristocracy, monarchy, Russian palaces, forests etc. - really! - but it's not unlike that to many it may simply state "I just shaved". On the other side, I imagine it goes naturally with a beard as well. For me Tsar shows its best in autumn and early winter and also when it's mixed with other smells around you (like smoke, etc.) or on your skin / clothes (cosmetics etc.).
    I agree it has similarities with YSL Jazz (mostly lavender and carnation I guess) but it's fresher and heavier at the same time. A masterpiece and a small world by itself, yet it's not so easy to find its place nowadays. Maybe the word "fougère" really says it all but oh well, they meant much more than this for sure.

    13 June, 2010

    rating


    Baldessarini Ambré by Baldessarini

    If there was an Amber chewing gum, it would smell like this. I actually like it a lot. Sensual but not heavy because of some playful notes. If you don't have a taste for oriental smells, you could easily label it an "older guy" fragrance but it's not true. I don;;t find it formal either.

    06 May, 2010

    rating


    Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain

    My first real 'fecal' experience. Starts pungent, then turns into mild and warm version of the above mentioned note, then settles into Jicky. I'd rather go for Jicky.

    02 March, 2010

    rating


    Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules

    Like a single ingredient that is very familiar to me from other perfumes like Gucci PH or Lalique Equus or any other good wooden-note perfume; this familiarity makes Escentric 01 look simple at firs sniff but then you could eventually change your mind and realize what a comfort this simplicity brings. Yes, no designer would put his name on this fragrance. It's more of a concept, something not invented by man but something that has always wandered around. And it's true for our olfactory culture; we have met this note so often playing the role of enhancer or substitute, and now here it is on its own. It's more warm than I expected, actually; while Comme Des Garcons' numbred abstractions are cold, this brings some cozyness from a better world. Yet I wouldn't go on a date with this. It's cognitive philosophy in a bottle.

    12 February, 2010

    rating


    Eden by Cacharel

    I think that in principle patchouli is something people often recognize as "synthetic" even when it's just patchouli itself. Think Angel, for example. Here in Eden, instead of candy and chocolate, on top of this thick patchouli base they've poured a concoction of high-water-content fruits (melon etc.) and flowers, again dominantly connected with water. It may seem that in the end they threw a rubber swimming hat too, but this again may be just the patchouli. The result is something watery and thick at the same time, like a slightly poisonous plant from another planet. Or some kind of urban flora in a skyscraper.
    In the end Eden, this tamed ancestor of Alien of the 90's, seems more true to its bottle than to its name. Was it a niche company, they would have called it "The Swimming Suit".

    08 February, 2010

    rating


    Chance by Chanel

    Chance acts refreshing, tempting and energizing in a refined way. it's a flowery cellophane fragrance, like you're moving in some kind of giant luxurious packaging, but you move lightly and inspire others to move along with you. When they smell this perfume, they'll be tempted to start a frivolous talk. And this shiny pink jewel being synthetic - so what? You'd never get its playful radiance naturally.
    Me, smelling the plastic note, I'm always reminded of op art and the 60's.

    04 February, 2010

    rating


    Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    After the first spritz and having recently tested Arabie, my first reaction was 'Yet another "edible' Lutens fragrance. What kind of cookie is this?
    Well, dried fruits, they say. With more than a touch of other not-so-appropriate spices, taken again from a Moroccan souk, yet meant for a completely different dish.
    Then it becomes salty and a bit 'meaty'. That's the leather, they say.
    Now, this may be the finest suede, but the scent as a whole is somehow brutal to my nose. This fruity, and spicy, and wrong note haunts the whole pyramid. Don't let the word 'blond' mislead you.

    03 February, 2010

    rating


    Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir by Christian Dior

    No, it's not an update. Seems to me more that it tries to revive an old citrus+leather groove as the likes of Cacharel Homme and Halston 1-12, both of them far more complex and superior. A trying-to-be-serious citrus peel, then a trying-to-be-heavy-and-warm citrus-enhanced leather. And in fact, that's all.

    29 January, 2010

    rating


    Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    Like a sugar cube soaked with absinthe... and deeper. Its sweetness is muffled, everything is blurred, the only spark is the nocturnal light of anise and then the calm light of cedar, yet they're blurred too, never on their own in this seductive concoction that redefines 'sweet', redefines 'spicy", redefines 'oriental'.
    I like the "bubblegum" association. This is a hallucinatory bubblegum smell for adults. "Opium" is the correct name.

    29 January, 2010

    rating


    Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

    Something truly sad about this fragrance. It smells both poetic and "heartless", like all sensual notes have been intentionally replaced or just gone like in an abandoned garden. Yes you can feel this is a sensual creation, but it just deliberately rejects to speak. This is modern poetry. As for the literal smell, my closest association would be the countryside in the Netherlands after a cold rain.
    I like it, but it really needs a special "cool" mood to reflect. The musk version somehow recovers the above-mentioned missing parts without compromising. This is not a "designer" scent nor a niche scent. Very special.

    18 January, 2010

    rating


    Bogart pour Homme by Jacques Bogart

    Yet another product of the tobacco-rum-vanilla synthesizing machine and yet another pretender to the name "Cuba". Couldn't be more predictable, but there's some hint in the beginning that reminds me of an old leathery monster; in fact, before i opened its file in the BN directory, I thought this is 35 years old because of the initial notes: rich, heavy, but with a sharp boozy edge which kept my attention for a long time . I actually prefer this beginning to the drydown, which is similar to at least 20 other drugstore scents and not interesting at all.

    18 January, 2010

    rating


    Arabie by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    It's a Moroccan souk in a bottle. Honestly, I didn't expect it to be so literal. Most of the spices are used for cooking meat, I presume. A "gourmand" smell, if you take Arabian cuisine for a base. No, I'm joking. Just bury yourself in a bag of cumin and cloves. Makes the perfect luxurious kitchen smell.

    07 January, 2010

    rating


    Essenza Del Tempo by Trussardi

    I like the bottle so much, it brings images of vast sunny rooms, french windows with a view of the seaside, wearing white linen, daydreaming. I would buy it solely for the bottle, just to have it around during a long vacation somewhere at the sea. Otherwise I wouldn't be so impressed by the fragrance itself. It goes somewhere after CK One but with a different twist. It's light and citrusy but in the same time there are undertones of leather and amber. A little darker undertones which help the fragrance escape the "natural" realm and present something more "human", more artisanal yet not artificial. I'm not quite sure I understand completely the reason for this name but I'm quite sure that's Italy. It's a fragrance you don't have to analyze to enjoy it. The perfect object to take with you on a summer vacation.

    19 December, 2009

    Showing 31 to 60 of 81.