Fragrance Reviews by Diamondflame

ARABIE made me smile, the way a child usually does when presented with a large plate of dates, dried fruits, marzipans, and other variety of spiced and candied desserts. It smells so enticing I'm not sure if I should sniff it or lick it! In texture it feels dense and syrupy, almost sticky-chewy. And just when I thought I had it figured as a gourmand scent, it presents me with deep dark woodsy accords. Honestly, I'm not sure how or even when to wear such a fragrance but as far as olfactory art goes, Arabie is simply delightful as it conjures up a merry image of a party in full swing, under the shade of heavily brocaded tents in some distant exotic land.

Serge is a type of weave pattern popularly used by fabric makers in the 19th and early 20th century. This little nugget of information may seem unimportant at first but as I delve deeper into the philosophical aspects of the scent, I realise just how crucial its role might have been in the 10 years it had taken Lutens to compose SERGE NOIRE.

I agree with some of the earlier reviewers - this may not be the easiest of scents to appreciate for it is almost like an abstract painting, known intimately only to the artist. But many would no doubt agree Serge Noire is one of the most evocative from the Lutens line, drawing upon the wearer's own life experiences and memories to make this scent his or her very own. Therein lies its magic.

In my mind, Serge Noire offers a noir (dark) reflection of life's very own 'serge' or tapestry, woven from bitter disappointments (camphoraceous gunpowder, peppery incense) and heartbreaking losses (smoky ashes). But against such a bleak darkness, a resilience of spirit (resins, cistus labdanum) allows a glimmer of hope (cinnamon and benzoin) to shine right through. Sure, that might sound phony-baloney to some of us but hey, not everyone has similar artistic sensitivities.

Forget what you know of Serge Lutens' fragrances for this is truly one of a kind - a perfect scent for meditation and introspection, even as I contemplate the unravelling of my personal 'serge noire'...

Wow, I'm floored. I've smelled rose scents before but seldom one with as much depth and complexity - it is richly regal, green and alive, dewy and fresh, all at the same time. Sa Majesté la Rose smells incredibly potent, like a luxury rose scent only the rich can afford. Truly a rose fit for a queen.

I've been told this could be the reference scent for Iso E Super but even with a heavy spray, there were no strident notes to be found, cedar or otherwise. All I got was a well-rounded and silky smooth blend of dried fruits (esp. plum), spices (cloves), flowers (? unidentified) and just a hint of cedarwood. Though FEMINITE DU BOIS seems modest in its portrayal, there is no denying that this is another top quality creation from Christopher Sheldrake - I enjoy basking in its warm glow even if it lacks that 'wow' factor.

Forget the scent pyramid, IRIS is L'Occitane's no-nonsense but no less pleasant take on iris and violet. It's powdery but not dry - I rather like it. But if depth and complexity are what you're after, you're out of luck.

A fresh light green floral which comes across more like a watered down version of Tommy Girl. Very pleasant if not a little synthetic.

This is exactly why Thierry Wasser was brought to Guerlain, to give the veritable house a more contemporary makeover. To a certain extent he has succeeded for GUERLAIN HOMME does have that modern vibe to it, with the interesting Mojito and lime opening, light and airy but rather nondescript middle accords and a competently handled drydown of vetiver. I don't get any cedar though. Unfortunately for fans of Guerlain classics (I'm one of them), this hardly feels like a Guerlain at all; it could have been a Diesel for all I care. And that's why a Neutral rating is the only option for me.

*** This review covers both the EDT and EDP, the latter smells pretty much the same except it lasts longer. ***

One of the smoothest sandalwood scents I've encountered, with an almost buttery feel to the drydown. The elegantly composed Égoïste is yet another reason why Chanel is held in such high esteem.

A rather antiquated opening of aldehydes and neroli which doesn't quite score with my nose. While the progression is expectedly complex, NO.5 grows so powdery that I get the impression of being in a cloud of talcum powder. Still I must say this is a sophisticated fragrance which should be experienced from afar because up close, the wrinkles start to show, revealing No.5's true age. But when the drydown appears I find myself eating my own words and appreciating why screen siren Marilyn Monroe wore No.5 exclusively to bed...

*** This review is of the parfum, circa 2009 ***

It was winter, 1994. I was an undergrad in Leeds, UK. Throughout that one hour in the lecture theatre, I could not for the life of me concentrate on whatever was being taught. All I could think of was "What a heavenly scent! Who's wearing it?" It was mysterious yet decidedly sensuous and the scent seemed to play a hide-and-seek game with my senses. Now I seldom approach women I do not know, but somehow I felt compelled to ask the pretty girl seated in front of me.
"I'm sorry but I just had to ask. Are you the one wearing that heavenly scent?"
She smiled and replied, "Yes. It's called Obsession."

OBSESSION. How apt indeed.

My then fiancee bought this for me in 1997. When I think of Cerruti I think of those double breasted Italian suits of the 90s. Perhaps that's wear the Mediteranean element originates from, certainly not from the scent which although fresh and suitable for a day at the office, is just too generic to leave a lasting impression.

For a scent named SAMOURAI, this is hardly cutting edge. It starts off fresh, finds some mild cedar and then fades rather smoothly to light vanilla - all within 3 hours. Rather simple and easygoing though a harsher critic might call it an attempt at minimalism gone wrong.

Oh my, what a handsome...bottle! It feels solid and heavy. Alas, the same cannot be said of this rather light-wearing scent. The opening act with bergamot and violet leaf is indeed bright and lovely, somewhat similar to that of Calvin Klein Man (also a 2007 release). But where Man goes all powdery with incense and amber, GUCCI POUR HOMME II gets drier and sharper, a lightly spiced tea leaf accord taking centerstage before the resinuous glow of myrrh alters the entire composition to something resembling GPH's cedar, only lighter. Maybe I expect a little more from Gucci but as much as I find GPH II versatile, it just doesn't excite me enough to get a decant, much less a full bottle.

When it comes to ESSENZA DI ZEGNA, do not trust your first impressions or you'd brush this off as yet another bland Armani woody citrus clone. Yes, it has the same Italian feel but not quite as synthetic, at least not to me. But what sets this apart is the use of cardamom to accentuate the scent's greener aspect, with a sharpness that recalls the cut of Ermenegildo Zegna suits. While I had expected a little more complexity from the likes of Alberto Morillas and Jacques Cavallier, I must say this is a pretty good workhorse fragrance which proudly bears the Zegna signature.

I've smelled aldehydic florals before but seldom one with as much finesse. To me FIRST opens ostentaciously but it is not the loud jumbled up mess that characterises many of the more contemporary flower bombs but rather a still life portrait of a floral bouquet, brought to living color by Ellena's masterful use of aldehydes. And like the scent of living flowers it projects with great subtlety, neither overwhelmingly floral nor cloyingly sweet but stays potent and well balanced throughout, with an animalic civet note adding a touch of raw sensuality. The drydown is warmer but no less substantial in its complexity: amber, honey, tonka bean, vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood, civet, vanilla and musk. I find this a bold gender-defying scent from 1976 which guys can wear proudly even today.

I dare say PIERRE CARDIN POUR MONSIEUR opens much better than the similarly styled original Gucci Pour Homme from 1976, with a sharp citrus top made greener by basil, and a hint of sweet lavender to add an intriguing facet of contrast. Towards the middle I get a powdery leather-sandalwood blend, with geranium and vanilla coming to the fore, and it continues pleasantly in the same affable manner to an ambery leather drydown which resembles that of - wait for it - Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur! What can I say? I'm sold. The price may be cheap but the scent is anything but. To budding perfumistos and cologneuseurs, I feel this 1972 release rates a 'must-try' at least. But you'd better hurry 'cuz I'm about to stockpile.

You can tell within seconds of application that this is not a modern release; they just don't make them like this anymore. After that somewhat nostalgic '70s-style introduction, GUCCI POUR HOMME surprises me, no, bowls me over, with a smooth yet masculine rendition of leather and woods. Wow! Considering the price I paid for this discontinued classic, I can't help feeling pleased with myself. Well, how does it compare to the current Gucci Pour Homme? It doesn't. The new version has absolutely nothing on the original old-school gold.

This must have been the inspiration behind 1993's exceptional Eau De Rochas Homme though I wonder why it has taken 23 years. The citrus opening is fresh, and the use of basil extends that crispness longer than is usually the case with topnotes. The heart notes are mostly 'white flower accord acting as a blank canvass' to the star citrus and I don't get that much patchouli either. A softly sweet drydown of amber, sandalwood and oakmoss completes this portrait of summer. Overall I find this a competent classic chypre done in the 'eau' style of the 1970s...light, refreshing and definitely unisex.

EAU DE ROCHAS HOMME has one of the best citrus opening bar none, with a deft use of basil to keep the lime and lemon freshness going right into the lightly spiced floral heart. It stays light and clean throughout before fading. The base combination of amber, oakmoss and vetiver plays more of a supporting role and are thus not distinctly in evidence in the drydown. A truly exceptional chypre done in the classic 'eau' style of the 1970s but having none of that '70s vibe that seems to afflict the likes of Dior's Eau Sauvage. And judging from what I paid for a 50ml recently, it is priced like it's the '70s too!

Bittersweet lavender with a hint of soft leather and sandalwood, interspersed with a fleeting cofee-and-rum accord. Hardly what I would consider as 'gourmand'. Sillage is weak and longevity is one of the poorest I have ever sampled - many deodorants last longer in comparison. Which is a real shame as YOHJI HOMME smells fabulous! So don't be afraid and shower yourself in this, and spray some on your clothes. My 50ml tester will probably finish in two weeks; that's why this discontinued fragrance is strictly on rotation, for those special occasions only. I have to give this one a 'thumbs up' for the classy scent, but a 'neutral' if you factor in its miserly sillage and 'shortivity'.

The brief to Maurice Roucel must have been very brief indeed, probably just that single word: ENVY. For Roucel seems to have had pretty much a free hand in this undertaking, opting for the easier no-brainer option to draw upon the oft-quoted phrase, 'green with envy'. And that's what we got here, folks - a green floral. But unlike the fresh effervescence of Tommy Girl's spring morning, Envy is more about spring evenings with dusk approaching, flowers in late bloom, a peach ripening on a stem, mayhap a touch synthetic but still lactonic. I find the musky and powdery heart addictive and kept sniffing myself every few minutes. But far from being a happy scent, Envy's dusky yet seductive demeanour hints at darker secrets, of desires and longings and quite possibly, envy.

A wearable if somewhat seductive scent that comes across as 'young'. On a sultry beauty, I could even imagine Envy as the embodiment of a third-party aka the 'husband-stealer'. Now if that isn't something that elicits envy, I don't know what is.

I have to agree with Trebor, ROCHAS LUI smells like a better-judged but darker version of the new (not original) Gucci pour Homme. The cedar is smooth and assured, performing as a sensible team-player rather than an ill-tempered primadonna. As scentsitivity had earlier on, I too detect a lingering burnt note over the scent's deveoplment. But far from distracting, I actually find it adds a darker more defining edge to this masculine fragrance. Others however may feel differently.

For those who like it sweet but not cloying, dry but not too powdery this could be it. I don't know how anyone could mistake this for a citrusy scent for it is not by any stretch of imagination. Rather floral perhaps but not in a feminine way. What struck me most was the elusive quality about this scent that makes everyone else go "Hey, who's wearing that gorgeous scent?" And if you happen to be the one, you'd be giving yourself away as you'd be sniffing at your wrist every few minutes.

If the women's Arpege had been a winner, the men's version can't be too far behind. Grab this one guys before it gets too popular.

I heard a lot of compliments about this frag. So I gave it a try. Not once, but on 4 separate occasions under different conditions. I tried it on the blotter paper. I tried it on my skin. Under cool air-conditioned office environment. And in the warm tropical outdoors. The only conclusion I came to was: what was all that fuss about? If inoffensive, mass market appeal (i.e. sales) the objectives D&G was going for, it has definitely succeeded. I have to agree with Miles here, this is mediocre at best.

5 years ago, I received this as a gift from a woman I just got to know. Subtil is a fresh aquatic well suited for day wear. Though its longevity is in question, a whiff of it reminds me of an exhilarating boat ride out on the sea on a cool breezy day, enjoying the touch of sea sprays on my face. Pleasant, inoffensive. Unfortunately utterly forgettable.

After the series of disappointment I had with celebrity frags, I must say I was pleasantly surprised when I first sampled Sean John's Unforgivable. Starts off with a citrus burst very much like an Armani classic but settles down to a rather intriguing woody base. A ladies' favorite for some time, this scent is a safe bet for the fuss-free-loving, grab and go guy.

My first encounter with this scent was in 2000 when I worked for a buyer. Though I didn't know it then, it was already well on its way to being a classic. I loved it then and have not forgotten the impression it made on me since. Urbane yet masculine, it can however get a little heavy handed if you spray it on a tad too liberally. Certainly a scent more suitable for that date in the evening rather than a day at the office. Needless to say, its success spawned quite a few copycats..

I had a whiff of this in a mall some months ago and was instantly hooked. All for a minute. One of RL's better offerings in recent times, showing how low RL has fallen since Safari. It starts off rather spicy but all too quickly fades away to a woody drydown. Longevity is definitely not its strong suit, at least not on my skin and definitely not in a tropical climate. A decent but safe, mass market scent which.unfortunately reeks of profiteering.

I remember the first time I sprayed this on my skin, long before joining Basenotes. My reaction was "Omg, what the h...?" Post-Basenotes and a hundred different scents later, my nose takes another shot at DIRTY ENGLISH and finds its spicy top a little overpowering but far from the stink it once was. It settles soon enough to unveil a blend of spice-tinged leather and woods, in particular cedar. Sillage and longevity is just about average on my skin, rather surprising for a scent that starts so promisingly. Overall this is a decent take on the masculine woods and spice genre, but apart from the controversial opening, it descends into 'middle of the road'.

After the richness and color that is Jubilation XXV, I must say DIA for Men seems more of a 'meh' from the get-go. Everything about it feels so...restrained. I like it; there is something oddly nostalgic about the subtle powdery citrus top. Perhaps it reminds me of the powder and eau de colognes of barber shops in the 1970s, though this is not strictly a Rive Gauche-style 'barbershop scent'.

If you prefer your scents edgier, or voluptuous, this is probably not for you. But if you have learnt to appreciate the more understated or refined styles of perfumery, I think you will enjoy the way Dia glides over you - the incense, florals and amber combo is one smooth operator, leading you confidently to a mildly sweet leather and amber drydown. The price may be a stumbling block for some of us but if money is no object, this gentlemanly scent is 'good to go' especially for the conservative or traditionalist in you.

I smell peach and some other fruity synthetics. Wafer-thin construct with perhaps nano particles of vetiver to give it some Wall Street cred, at least for marketing purposes. After the successful Unforgivable, Sean Jean must have felt like a king and decided it's no longer necessary to rip off another Creed. And given the largely clueless masses of young customers out there, he's probably right.

BAGHARI begins with a powdery orange icing sugar note which smells utterly delicious to me. But it rapidly drops this gourmandish facade to showcase a sophisticated blend of aldehydes, florals (orange blossom, rose, jasmine, iris), amber and vanilla. Like a refined interpretation of a 1920s classic, it is elegantly composed with a restraint somewhat unexpected from the nose behind Fracas and Bandit. An exceptionally classy, full bottle-worthy fragrance with no shortage of admirers even among diehard fans of Guerlain and Chanel.

YSL's lacklustre answer to Chrome by Azzaro, proving yet again that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. No doubt Ropion would be anxious to distance himself from such a bland-astic release.

Orange-scented powder and patchouli. Not arcanely complex, just pleasantly wearable. I like it.

At first sniff it seems tooth-achingly sweet but as the smoky vanilla and incense diffuse into the FlowerByKenzo-like floral layer, it feels like I'm in a dream sequence walking though a scented mist looking for something. A lost love perhaps? Or a nose plug, you say? Haha. Much like the ideals many of us hold about true love, I find KENZO AMOUR achingly beautiful.

The opening grapefruit is invigoratingly fresh and natural, a bracing introduction to what is essentially a spicy floral with notes of rose and other less identifable flowers lurking behind smoky cloves. I can also appreciate the earlier reviewer's reference to clove cigarettes for I too found a pseudo tobacco note clinging to my skin. Shortlived as it is, L'EAU DE JATAMANSI is an excellent naturalistic composition which leans towards the masculine and favors cooler weather. So guys, do enjoy it while it lasts.

Fleetingly powdery candy-like accord interspersed with vegetal notes? This isn't just the mimosa flower, it's the whole mimosa plant with the rapidly closing fern-like leaves included. Outstanding!

Floral butter or buttery floral? To my nose it's more of the latter but it is a scent unlike any flower I've smelled before. Delicately feminine in both feel and structure, I find TUBEREUSE's coy presentation unconventionally attractive.

PREMIER FIGUIER starts off verdant but gets subtly vegetal with a creamy and nutty undertone along its development. Not a bad option for summer for this is a unisexually appealing scent with an an air of casual nonchalance about it. The only problem I have with it is its poor sillage. Although this is something I've come to expect from L'Artisan Parfumeur I still wish it projects just a little bit further.

This is Jacques Polge having a bad day at work after a lemon cream pie party the night before.

Alberto Morilla's interpretation of what the poppy flower would smell like if it were to have a scent, combining the best of rose, jasmine and violet leaf notes to create an illusory floral accord. To my nose FLOWER BY KENZO feels voluptuous, textured with a mild powdery sweetness that draws me into its depth. Not the most enchanting floral I've encountered but certainly one of the most feminine.

*** This review is of the EDP ***

Despite looking blue in a similarly styled bottle, SHALIMAR EAU LEGERE PARFUMEE clearly possesses the DNA of the original classic, coming across more like an update which is creamier, less powdery and more 'eau'. Not surprising for a legendary beauty to have such a ravishing daughter; I'm smitten.

p/s: I think Asha is right - this is Shalimar Light under a different packaging.

Eh, what grapefruit? I don't get any fruit, just a faint gingery and woodsy blend. Masculine? Yes. But boring too, I'm afraid. MEMOIRE D'HOMME just doesn't cut it in today's ultra-competitive fragrance market. Still it is wearable on account of this very same nondescript persona and it lasts pretty well. Here's a tip: the more interesting licorice note holds better on fabric, but stick to dark colors.

Remarkable. And I'm not just talking about the bottle. Sharp pine-green note from the juniper berries links up flawlessly with the spice-tinged violet leaf heart, creating an invigoratingly fresh forest green cloak somewhat reminiscent of L'eau Bleue D'Issey but a notch tighter. As the scent adroitly canters towards drydown, I get a little musk, a mild woodsy accord and an unmistakable vetiver of the 'grassy green' variety that gets me wondering if LALIQUE POUR HOMME EQUUS isn't a vetiver-centric scent after all.

*** This review is of the EDP ***

First thing I notice other than the restrained sweet orange opening is the layer of film it leaves on the skin upon application. It hints at something dense and substantial which unfortunately this scent is not - a generous application seems mandatory if you wish to experience the leather. And that's what AIGNER BLACK FOR MEN really is to me - a black leather experience. Not the smooth buttery sweetness of Daim Blond's suede gloves nor the salt-tinged realism of Cuir Ottoman's leather furniture but rather the feel of well-polished black leather boots as I recall my early days as a police cadet. The faintly musky drydown is excellent. Without a doubt, a softly masculine leather scent which deserves a better spotlight.

I can see where the 'root beer' comparisons come from though calling it 'sweet' is missing the mark by a mile. Dry and resinuous from start to finish, somewhat linear with no distracting accords along the way. MYRRHE ARDENTE is probably an ardent fan's interpretation of myrrh, very discreet yet mysteriously intoxicating. But it may take some getting used to for it is niche in every sense of the word, wears close to the skin and seems to be made more for the private enjoyment of the wearer and that lucky lady in his arms.

Smells like an old lady? That's just ridiculous and ageist. I find older women have better taste in fragrances so some of us would do well to pay attention. And honestly, there's nothing old lady-like about FLORENCE by Tocca, an unapologetic feminine floral which needs no excuses for being one. I'd love to smell this on a woman. To me it feels young and fresh, like a day scent and not the heady Lauder-style bouquets. While I can appreciate any reference to fabric softener it does not detract from the soft wearable aspect of the scent, with a purity about it that recalls the child-like innocence of Tommy Girl.

I'm not a fan of musty earthy vetiver. That's why Guerlain Vetiver gets no love from me. But vetiver of the green and grassy variety? That's a different story altogether - I love the stuff! And I'm glad Ropion's take leans closer to this type.

VETIVER EXTRAORDINAIRE does seem a little underwhelming at first, nothing extraordinary as the name suggests. But I've come to realise this was never meant to be another Carnal Flower. Rather it feels like a modern update of the gentlemanly scent, eschewing the traditional 70s-style citrus in favor of the earthly, though not quite earthy, vetiver. A nod to greater environmental awareness in the 21st century perhaps? Presumptious at best. But juxtaposed against the occasional and fleeting 'lighter fluid' accord, the irony of it all is nothing short of brilliant.

WOW! Is there anyone out there who takes a sniff of CARNAL FLOWER and walks away less than impressed? No more than a handful I'll wager. Dominique Ropion has clearly brought out his A-game to bear on this one for this is a modern reference floral, albeit tuberose-centric with sinus-clearing property as a hidden benefit. Potent stuff! Btw am I the only one who feels it bears more than a passing resemblance to Caron Tabac Blond's amazing opening?

I suppose this could be marketed as a unisex fragrance but as someone pointed out earlier, it's not something an average man would wear. Which suits me just fine 'cuz there's nothing remotely average about this scent. A showstopper.

To the uninitiated UNE FLEUR DE CASSIE may come across as crass, vulgar even, and all those earlier references to bodily orifices seem to have more than an iota of truth in them. Who on Earth would ever want to smell like this? But others may find the funky mix of florals, spices and musk oddly erotic, a scent reminiscent of sex (?). Or for nature lovers it could just be the scent of wild flowers and fallen petals in various phases of decay. In any case I find myself going through love, hate, reconciliation but eventually, resignation and separation. This is just not for me. While its artistry is undeniable and Ropion's execution flawless, IMO it's far too controversial when it doesn't need to be.

I love Granny Smiths even as a kid, I eat them all the time. So I'm quite pleased to smell some off the top notes. Unfortunately after that vibrant opening, LIGHT BLUE goes downhill. Cedar, cedar and then more cedar. OK, I do get some musky and floral accents but these are ambient, the overall character remaining sharply woodsy even incensey. Sorry ladies but I wouldn't want to smell this on you - it's a little too butch for comfort yet feels a little too lightweight and synthetic to be taken seriously as a men's fragrance.

Opens with a spicy modern leather accord and turns a little smoky, though not with the density displayed by Lutens' Fumerie Turque. A touch of oudh lends an air of exoticism to the resinuous frankincense and woods combo, while the use of clean musk keeps the amber and patchouli base light and steers it away from any association with warmer monastic-incense-type scents.

BLACK TOURMALINE thus comes across a little strange to me, for it does not fit in with any known stereotype. Leather-like but not quite 'leathery'. Smoky yet devoid of warmth. I find it intriguing yet mildly disturbing, a scent with a cold shadowy aura that borders on the supernatural, almost like opening a dimensional portal to a twilight plane of existence. Foetidus is probably right - it would appeal to fans of gothic fantasy. And now that I think of it, it will fit someone like Criss Angel to a 'T'.

TABAC BLOND by Caron is immediately stunning, even chic when I smell it off fabric. Not surprising considering it was released by such an esteemed house at the very cusp of a golden era in perfumery. But on my skin it turns rather butch and stays that way for the next 30 minutes, the smoky masculine leather slowly softening to a more gender-neutral, buttery yet dry floral-tinged amber and musk. And as the vanilla gains in strength so does its feminine appeal. But just when I think this is turning out to be another musky amber vanilla, a glowing tobacco note arrives to give this gem an entirely new facet.

I must say this is by far one of the finest scents I've had the pleasure, no, privilege to sample; I feel so lucky to have stumbled upon this hobby. Words suddenly feel so inadequate for Tabac Blond is truly out of this world!

*** This review is of the extrait ***

One spritz and it's already spice overload for me which effectively ruins the incense and iris part. Seems to me PAUL SMITH MAN was rushing to get on the incense bandwagon for its composition comes across as clumsy and poorly balanced, like it was hastily put together. Or perhaps I'm just a little sensitive to strong spices since this isn't the first time a spice accord does a hatchet job on a scent under review.

Not your typical sweet and heady bouquet so don't get disappointed if you smell something green and somewhat sourish with a little skanky note off the top. I can't help but think of Guerlain's Mitsouko and apparently I wasn't the only one who thought so. Patou's 'MILLE' does seem to share Mitsouko's mysterious aura though not quite the latter's sophistication. As the scent wears on it gets noticeably brighter, the flowers blooming - rose, violet. jasmine, geranium, chinese osmanthus, lily-of-the-valley and iris - without any individual note gaining prominence. But interestingly that aspect unravels over time as each floral note expires at differing rates.

Overall, I find this floral chypre creation from Jean Kerleo to be enchantingly original but has a very mature feel to it; certainly not an easy fragrance to wear especially for the younger set. A strong personality might be a non-negotiable prerequisite, otherwise the scent will wear you instead.

*** This review is of the EDT ***

I get a strong leather accord in the opening, even before all the smoke. I was told Sheldrake draws inspiration from the places he frequents including a particular Moroccan marketplace; here I can thus picture myself at a stall which sells leather goods. Bitter sweet smoke arrives next as I walk pass a group of men sharing a hookah between them. Then little notes of rose and some unidentified fruits waft in and out of the dense tobacco smoke before honey and amber make their presence felt albeit lightly. Indeed, there are countless stalls in such a large marketplace.

Unlike By Kilian's Back To Black's vivid tobacco drydown, FUMERIE TURQUE leans closer to the masculine only for the first hour or two before it softens to a sweetish, dried fruit accord. It is also more evocative and multi-layered compared to Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille. Yet I don't find it particularly compelling to wear nor do I want any woman smelling like they just came from a street market. Maybe I'm just not romanced by the whole 'marketplace-inspired' concept. But the one thing that kills off any chance of a positive rating from me has to be its poor longevity - 3 hours for a Lutens is simply unacceptable.

The jasmine on display here is light but glorious, unplucked and invigoratingly fresh like a heavenly scent gently wafting from the garden in the evenings. I find the middle florals taking on more of a supporting role to provide a bright clean palette to showcase the jasmine before a soft, clean amber and sandalwood base completes what is turning out to be a beautiful picture. Kudos to Carlos Banaim, Dominique Ropion and Olivier Polge for PURE POISON has class and sophistication in spades, even if it lacks the sensual sultry appeal of the original Poison.

I can't agree more with the earlier reviewers; EAU DES BAUX does smell like a more expensive incense-inspired oriental. Even non-fans of frankincense might find it enjoyable. But while the amber vanilla drydown is pleasant enough it lacks a certain richness and comes across a little lightweight. Still, a full bottle worthy scent IMO.

AMBRE is surprisingly competent, though not particularly sophisticated as others have rightly pointed out. Not much woods nor spice either but it does get smokier towards the drydown. Lasts an acceptable 4-5 hours on me.

Notes from fragrantica.com
*********************************
Top: aldehydes, bergamot, orange blossom, peach
Mid: heliotrope, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, orchid, iris, tuberose, ylangylang
Base: amber, benzoin, cedar, civet, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla

Attractive looking bottle. Impressive set of notes. And of Russian origin to boot. Needless to say I found it intriguing enough to sample it on skin (1 spritz on my forearm, another on inside of elbow).

MAROUSSIA opens with something vaguely familiar, a touch of aldehydes and a fleeting peach-like note. Then it's gone, rather too soon, chased away by a blooming floral bouquet. I could detect hints of rose and jasmine but for the most part, the florals are all pretty muddled up, the blend not as finely executed as say Patou's 1000. Unlike Lauder's Beautiful, it is far from heady but more musky in a sexy-and-dirty kind of way, the warmth from the base amber almost palpable within the heart along with sweetness from vanilla and benzoin. A naive girl this scent is not, nor a lady of class. But a woman of raw passion? Perhaps. That's the impression I got anyway.

I find sillage to be decent enough but longevity could be better, the drydown leaving little trace after 4-5 hours. Yes, there are far better quality ambery florals out there but at the available price, getting acquainted with this Russian beauty has been more than a guilty pleasure for me. Hmm, somehow that doesn't sound quite right, does it?

1828 opens green and minty, a little astringent even. Lurking behind the eucalyptus and mint are the citrus notes. It's funny how the entire top ensemble produces a ginger-like accord, so why didn't they just use 'ginger'? Perhaps they could but wouldn't, not when this scent draws inspiration from an explorer as renowned as Jules Verne. Fruits, spices, resins, woods, animalics are all represented here in a symbolic nod to the myriad landscapes discovered. As much as I love the vibrantly fresh greenery, I find myself in agreement with odysseusm - the pine and cedar notes are so lacking in weight they leave 1828 looking lean when it could have been fuller bodied. Still it is a classy and unique take on the fresh genre.

I'll 'fess up - I love the vanillic accord that seems to run through a number of Histoire de Parfums' releases. But I had expected NOIR PATCHOULI to be darker, grittier, sombre. Instead it comes across as a pleasant, lightly musky and dirty rose scent. It plays a little too safe when its name grants it the licence to thrill, to push boundaries to the very edge. And when it finally gets darker in the second hour, it is only by a shade, the patchouli gaining more prominence. Objectively speaking, however, Noir Patchouli actually smells good enough for a thumbs up. Just leave those expectations at the door.

A ripe juicy pineapple opening? How rare indeed! Smells delicious too. Just when I'm half-expecting this to turn into a tropical-style pina colada, it doesn't, becoming a musky woody floral blend instead. Supposedly inspired by 19th century French romantic novelist Aurore Dupin aka George Sand, 1804 is a gorgeous powdery floral that starts flat-out interesting but loses some of its quirky appeal as it progresses towards drydown. Or am I just missing the pineapple?

(Notes from: Beauty Cafe)
******************************
Top : Tahitian gardenia, Corsican peach, Hawaiian pineapple
Heart : clove, Indian jasmine, lily of the valley, rose of Morocco
Base : sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, white musk

Cloves, cardamom, carnation, patchouli, white musk, etc. An army of notes, all up in arms, waving placards, voices raised in unison, demanding attention but drawing admiration. The revolution is under way! And I can't seem to get enough of 1969 PARFUM DE RÉVOLTE. Synthetic? Perhaps a little. Spectacular? Most definitely. I'd better start a fund...for this could well be my top scent from what is turning out to be one of my favorite houses.

At first whiff, I thought I had sampled from the wrong vial and had spritzed on some Imperial Opoponax by mistake. The opening sweetness certainly has a similar vibrancy to the Les Nereides; apparently these two share more than a few base notes. But AMBRE 114 has the greater depth, with swiftly unraveling fine notes of rose and woods wafting in and out of the amber with such subtlety you're likely to miss them. And perhaps that's why earlier references to 'herbal' escape me as I find this to be sweet from top to bottom. A top ranking high quality amber scent in my books.

Unexpectedly light, the musk not even remotely animalic. I have to agree with PigeonMurderer though - you can't possibly miss the aoud in this simple yet sensual blend of nutmeg, woods, grey amber and musk. And despite its rather understated presentation style, MUSK TO MUSK still feels exotic; I would be happy to own a bottle for it is easily wearable. But fans of loud, bombastic aoud scents or animalic musks may have to look elsewhere.

HALSTON Z-14's opening citrus is very similar to Bowling Green's - green and mildly spicy, dry but not harsh. However unlike the rampaging cardamom in BG, the coriander and cinnamon are much more agreeable partners here and compliment the herbs and woods middle rather well, allowing for a smoother transition to a leathery amber-musk drydown. Unfortunately the retro 70's vibe is strong on this one; spritzing Z-14 is almost like clothing myself in bell bottoms, a tight long sleeved shirt with flared collars and other kitschy accessories from that era. Not a particularly flattering look for me unless I happen to be auditioning for an episode on That 70's Show. And that is the only reason why I won't be wearing even such a well-structured scent anytime soon.

Unless you've had positive experiences with herbal scents or possess an enlightened attitude towards anything weird in general, you're likely to find L'EAU BLEUE D'ISSEY's rosemary dominated citrus opening as unpalatable as bitter medicine. So I'm not surprised to read a few negative reviews here. But good things do come to those who wait, the rosemary receding well enough for the ginger, lavender and juniper berry accords to take centerstage and paint the scentscape in gorgeous hues of dark and deep green. At this juncture I can't help thinking, surely 'Bleue' is a misnomer. Then something interesting happens - the lush greenery all but vanishes and I'm left with a freshness that reminds me somewhat of cool ocean sprays. Hahaha! You certainly got me there, Jacques Cavallier. This IS 'BLEUE' after all!

Once in a long while there comes a fragrance which makes me question the wisdom of paying top dollar for niche or luxury scents made from supposedly high quality ingredients (read: highly quality profit margins). JACOMO DE JACOMO ROUGE is one of those. Priced to match any drugstore release but performs more like a virtuoso - beguilingly sweet, yet smoky and sensual - it leaves many designer scents red-faced. So don't act surprised if a woman starts complimenting you on your scent. It certainly happened to me.

Got recently reacquainted with Cerutti IMAGE, a safe office scent for me in the late 1990s. I still love the mildly fruity but fresh minty opening but I don't care much for the sillage-shy middle which I find skirts a little too closely to 'boring' territory. I do however agree with earlier reviewers on the lightly sweet yet musky woods drydown; it's definitely sniff-worthy but just doesn't project well enough for me so I'd probably go heavier with the initial application. The best part of Image has to be its clever leverage-utilising spray mechanism - it is as user friendly as the IPOD clickwheel.

I want to call this a classic but in all honesty I can't. SHALIMAR goes beyond classic - it's 'legendary'. Many scents successfully evoke scenes, or fragments from splintered dreams. Only a handful tells a story. Shalimar's is an epic tale of a love which knows no boundaries, transcending time and space, even human mortality. You may say such a glorification is only to be expected from a rabid fan of powdery vanilla scents but Shalimar goes far deeper than that. On the right person, I find the effect of this masterfully crafted scent is nothing short of spellbinding! Similar to how Shah Jahan's monumental Taj Mahal is revered by many in the world, I believe this 1925 Guerlain masterpiece deserves its rank as one of the wonders of the fragrance world.

*** This review is of the EDP - enough to make me think of pulling the trigger on a vintage ***

I thought this was my signature scent in the late 1980s - its bright citrus opening is certainly captivating. But as expected of top notes it can never last, transitioning smoothly from tangy lemon to a lightly spiced lavender heart before leaving behind a vaguely masculine woodsy drydown that I just can't seem to care about. A more modern interpretation of the classic gentlemen scent ala Eau Sauvage this may be, but I find EAU POUR HOMME's overall presentation rather ho-hum.

I stumbled upon this discontinued fragrance as I was browsing through the aisles of a local discounter. There were no testers handy so I had to buy it blind. And I'm glad I did for other than affordability, EAU DE PATOU is indeed, as its marketing literature suggests, a "subtle melody of sublime floral and fruity notes, perfect for all those unhurried moments, informal meetings and pleasurable days." This is a light citrus scent somewhat reminiscent of Armani's Eau Pour Homme but dries down to a more unisexually wearable combination of amber, moss and civet/musk. Casual, everyday scent IMO. The only potential downside? It comes in a splash bottle.

With its medicinal, almost herbal minty opening I can see why this isn't exactly ringing the cash registers. And probably the reason for its discontinuation too for it simply lacks the pretty opening hook that floors most consumers and loosens their purse strings. A shame really as HORIZON gradually expands into a dark green, mildly aquatic hybrid that is bittersweet yet oddly refreshing, almost like a cool rainfall over a pine forest. Ruggedly masculine without any of Drakkar Noir's macho posturing, Horizon firmly underscores its potential as a cult favorite. Get it cheap while you still can, dudes.

After a lush peachy opening, JAIPUR descends into a rather nondescript, imminently forgettable floral bouquet. While its feminity is without question, it will be lightyears before it gets anywhere near the class of its younger sibling, Jaïpur Homme. Tenacity however is top notch.

It's funny how often Givenchy Pi gets a mention whenever a powdery vanilla scent is discussed, and more often than not the scent under review would come out tops. But is that really a reflection of the scent's superior construct or more a case of Pi's relative ineptitude? With this question in mind I put JAIPUR HOMME to the test.

And walked away impressed. Forget Pi, just forget it. Jaïpur Homme is in a different league altogether. While it is similarly powdery, the vanilla sweetness stays light, possibly lifted by the heliotrope in the opening and tempered with the lightly spicy touch of nutmeg and cinnamon in the middle. Once you have mastered the art of applying fragrances, the result is an oriental of such refined sophistication that even my favorite Arpège pour homme finds itself in the shade. Fans of this genre should buy it with confidence for I must say that arguably, Jaïpur Homme is to Boucheron what Shalimar is to Guerlain. SUBLIME.

I recently bought a 1.7 oz HERITAGE purely on the merits of my vague yet positive recollection of it, having owned a bottle in the early 1990s. Now that I'm wearing it again I wish I had bought a larger bottle. For this is an exquisitely crafted oriental which bears all the hallmarks of Guerlain's earlier classics. In fact you'd be easily forgiven if you thought this was a classic from the 1920s for the construct is similarly complex - multifaceted yet harmoniously unified, with a depth that hints at profound artistry only a select few can muster. Better noses have described its scented symphony with far greater clarity than I could ever manage so I shall only offer my humble verdict: Héritage is, in a nutshell, luxury, refinement and class 'personified'.

The first whiff is nothing short of a 'WOW!' Kudos to Roudnitska for the purported use of hédione to add extra zest for this is arguably the best citrus opening bar none. Unfortunately for me that is the best part of EAU SAUVAGE, all 15 minutes of it. I don't get any florals, not even a fleeting note of jasmine, just a mossy herbal mixture with a rather dated, musty feel - a strong vintage vibe reminding me of the scent's history as a fragrance favored by gentlemen circa 1960s-70s. Alas, the much talked-about charms of Eau Sauvage escape me. Perhaps another 5-10 years may grant me the insights to fully appreciate such a well loved classic.

Bright, clean smelling...a 'happy' scent. Perfect for adolescents. Adults however are likely to find CK ONE yawn-inducingly boring.

I almost laugh when I read the promotional material for PI NEO. If this is what the future smells like, I'd rather stay in the present. Paradoxically the decision to do yet another take on an already overdone genre seems rooted in the tried and tested past. In fact the only thing remotely futuristic about Pi Neo is the glass bottle! I feel the Givenchy team should have taken more risks and be more daring in the use of synthetics. Even if the end result polarises opinions, they would have been forgiven, for PI NEO as it stands is just painfully nondescript, and lacks that little edge or aberration that makes a fresh scent like Azzaro Chrome interesting. Perhaps in their haste to synthesize a bespoke scent for Neo, someone must have forgotten to upload the 'Grow a Set' (GAS) module into the creative team. But on the other hand they really didn't need to do anything groundbreaking for the majority of the consumers have not taken the red pill...

Back when I was a newbie, I bought my fragrances based on the first 5 minutes. That was how I ended up with Polo Black - I found its opening more interesting than that of DOUBLE BLACK which I got as a mini. Bad mistake. For later on I found myself using Double Black more often than Black, preferring the former's spicier, edgier character and especially the nutmegs in dry coffee ground highlights. This is probably one of Ralph Lauren's better releases in recent times, though not in the same class as the legendary Polo.

With an exciting burst of energy, EUPHORIA comes off the starting blocks, only to fall behind the Usain Bolts and show itself for what it is: an also-ran. But is it really? Or was that the right race to be in at all? I'd consider olfactory fatigue if I start to think a fragrance is lacking in longevity for I can assure you, others especially women can detect a scent long after you think it's gone. But in this case, sillage is definitely suspect.

Euphoria needs no apologies for being what it is - a member of the generic, fresh scent brigade. It smells good enough to wear but let's face it - competition will be stiff; it is unlikely to win against the better constructed Acqua di Gio and Cool Water. So I can understand why some Basenoters would give this a thumbs down.

I love the opening - powdery floral with a well behaving violet. If only this phase could be extended throughout the fragrance progression. For once the violet departs, so does the magic. Which is a shame as TOUCH could have easily been a firm favorite from the house of Burberry. To my nose the base combination of white musk, vetiver and tonka bean is too much of an erratic performer to make this a staple in my wardrobe. Better suited for cool dry weather IMO.

I share zztopp's observation about this scent for I too thought this is one of JC Ellena's ethereal interpretations of tea - translucent, deceptively light and highly evocative, reminding me of a morning stroll through a pine grove. But I was mistaken. BVLGARI POUR HOMME was created in 1995 by Jacques Cavallier, fresh from delivering his brilliantly constructed L'Eau d'Issey. And like L'Eau d'Issey it punches above its weight, delivering a level of sillage and longevity beyond the norms typically expected of such fresh scents. On my skin it wears closer, lasting a respectable 5-6 hours with 5 sprays. But I can understand why others might complain over its apparent lack of staying power - who wouldn't want a good-smelling scent to last longer?

I find myself reaching for this whenever I'm undecided about which scent to wear. While it is far from exciting, Bulgari pH is a superbly balanced original (better than the Extreme version), conveying a sense of calmness and coolheadedness that is necessary in my line of work. Truly a class act.

While Fahrenheit is the unrepentant rabble-rousing rebel rocker, FAHRENHEIT 32 is the younger step-brother with an identity crisis. He can't seem to decide if he should major in herbals or vanilla and ends up failing at both miserably, coming across as uncertain, unimaginative, even weak. Other than the name, 32 just doesn't have the pedigree of the original to qualify as a bona fide flanker and reeks rather strongly of 'exploitation'. I think it's time to ditch this coat tail rider.

I remember being turned off by FAHRENHEIT the first time I tried it in 1988. Maybe it just wasn't what I expected any fragrance to smell of. I mean who would've thought a combination of flowers, woods and other natural plant extracts could produce a scent so reminiscent of synthetic leather, melting plastic and burning tyres? But a recent reacquaintance with Fahrenheit revealed the extent to which my tastes could have degenerated or, as I prefer to believe, my horizons have expanded over the last 20 years. I can now appreciate this modern and rather radical take on men's fragrance, much like how punk rock shook the music establishment years ago I guess. But as a child of the 80s, its sillage is nowhere near that of its 'powerhouse' peers from the likes of Calvin Klein or YSL. A reformulation perhaps? Still, among proponents of popular woodsy floral fragrances, Fahrenheit must have stood out like a rock star then and to some extent it still does, even today.

HABIT ROUGE EDC opens with a citrus and spice mix which conveys a similar vintage vibe as Dior's Eau Sauvage. As the lemon recedes the rose joins the vanilla to take centrestage. And this is where it gets disappointingly bad for me. I'm a fan of sweet scents but the sweetness I get here feels watery, a little sickly even and certainly not what I would expect from the same nose who created the vibrantly sublime Spiritueuse Double Vanille. Some two hours later, 'sickly' turns to 'decay' and my nose wrinkles up at a moist, earthy faintly fecal note. Ugh. I don't get it - why would anyone want to smell like they had just stepped on a pile of manure?

I must confess I did try to appreciate this classic or at least remain neutral. But I can't. Either they had screwed up the original formula big time or I'm just not a fan of dirty earthy fragrances. Habit Rouge is one big royal mess to me. No offense to those who find this one charming but if I were on the lookout for an elegant fragrance, a sickly sweet scent that literally decomposes on my skin would be the last thing on my mind.

Did the original Dior Homme by Olivier Polge really need a reworking just 2 years into its release (as some parties had claimed)? I think it was more a case of product extension i.e. a sales & marketing strategy. To me this is just a less powdery and less sweet version of the original. With the amber and cocoa left out of the heart, it also comes across as more floral and I find this aspect appealing. But replacing the opening lavender with citrus makes no real difference to me nor should it since the top fades away after 5 minutes anyway. And as palatable as DIOR HOMME COLOGNE is, its shorter lifespan and the absence of a drydown further reinforce its image as a poor man's version of Dior Homme. Rather unfortunate.

Smooth powdery iris with ambery sweetness, boasting respectable sillage and longevity. I find DIOR HOMME rather similar in structure to Lanvin's Arpège pour homme (both launched in 2005) but not nearly as intimate. Where the latter is peppery and vibrant, Dior Homme's aura is quieter, the iris a little more prominent. I didn't get the lipstick scent of a woman's purse nor the impression of leather either. Maybe I wasn't supposed to. But as a fan of powdery florals I feel this could have earned a place in my wardrobe if it wasn't for Arpège pH.

ESENCIA LOEWE bucked the frag bomb trend of the 1980s, with an elegant and classy presentation of lavender on top of a superb blend of grassy vetiver, smooth sandalwood, light amber and just a hint of musk. That's the impression I got anyway as the base is just too refined. I'm just surprised such a gentlemanly scent as this hasn't had more reviews.

I must say for a celebrity scent, INTIMATELY BECKHAM is surprisingly competent, approaching good even. 3-4 hours after the forwards ran out of steam, the midfielders esp. Nutmeg and Violet are still spraying deft passes into space. Unfortunately the 'back four' is the weakest link, the main reason for the team's lack of resilience. Patchouli, amber and sandalwood? Bah! I think replacements are in order when the transfer window opens. Now David Beckham is really a regular bloke who is blessed with marketable good looks and a talent for laser-guided defence-splitting passes. Just do not to ask him to speak at events much less sing. Similarly don't expect this celebrity scent to reach the same level of sophistication as those from more established houses; it is primarily targeted at his legions of fans around the world who I'm sure would be a little more forgiving than the average Basenoter.

The opening is stunning. Certainly not what I've come to expect from a typical orange, grapefruit and bergamot combo. Credit must go to Jacques Polge for adroitly allowing the heart notes to join the top in the opening act, and particularly for the inspired use of lychee which adds an oddly 'fruity-yet-flirty' dimension to what could have been just another citrus-floral-vanilla scent. I feel COCO MADEMOISELLE is decidedly contemporary and captivatingly feminine but falls a little short of the class and sophistication of Coco or other Chanel classics; I would even say this is one of the least Chanel-like releases from the house. Nevertheless it seems perfectly suited for anyone who is no longer a girl, but not yet a woman.

*** This review is of the EDP ***

Having created the hugely successful No.5 and the beautiful Bois des Iles in the 1920s, Ernest Beaux left behind a pair of proverbial shoes the size that of Bigfoot's. For a long time these shoes were simply too gigantic for anyone to wear. Henri Robert made an admirable attempt with No.19 but I believe it is Jacques Polge who finally nailed it in 1984 with his masterpiece, COCO. Forget about identifying individual accords here for life is simply too short ( and samples too prohibitively costly! ). Just enjoy this luxuriant beauty and revel in the sophistication and womanly charms of a true Chanel classic. A full bottle for my missus for sure!

*** This review is of the EDP ***

I've given up trying to make sense of NO.19; it's just too temperamental for me. Fresh and green on some days, floral and powdery on others. And when the mood strikes, it's simply undecipherable. But through all these permutations it always retain a cool, immaculate feel about it. I love it. Maybe I've grown to appreciate this facet of unpredictability from such a fine 1971 classic.

ENVY FOR MEN has been on my test list for quite some time yet for some reason I never got round to sampling it. The listed notes alone are worth investigating IMO, esp. for fans of opoponax and incense. So it was with some disappointment that I finally sampled Envy for Men only to find a dominant 'old' ginger note interfering with my enjoyment as the scent progressed. Perhaps a lighter ginger component like that of Kenzo Tokyo or more complimentary accords would make this oriental composition a little tighter and win that thumbs up from me.

Hmm...what else is left for me to say about this phenomenal vetiver scent? Grassy and green one moment, dry and earthy the next. I'd pick ENCRE NOIR over Guerlain's Vetiver on any given day and twice on Sunday. This could well have been a market share-grabbing release from the house of Lalique.

I love the complexity of Chanel classics and this is no exception. Greener and more floral than contemporary favorite Cuir Pleine Fleur, CUIR DE RUSSIE is a gloriously beautiful leather-inspired scent which finds a rightful place among such illuminaries as Chanel No. 5, Guerlain's Shalimar, Lanvin's Arpège and Patou's Joy. It seems to me the 1920s was indeed a golden era for fine fragrances.

A finely tailored rose-dominant scent that hints at refinement and impeccable taste, very much like a bespoke suit or an exquisitely cut dress; I find DOMENICO CARACENI 1913 to be comfortably gender-neutral. However the potent rose element is a double edged sword and may even be a little too sweet for some (though not for me). Just avoid overspraying or getting this on fabric lest you start smelling as though you've accidentally spilled on some rose cordial during lunch.

For the first 15 minutes all I got was dried preserved prunes - the sort you'd find in Chinatown, sold in large packets with the prunes individually wrapped in paper. We call these preservatives 'buah kanna'. (Hey, maybe Tom Ford was eating some while sifting through dried tobacco leaves and somehow drew an inspiration!) Anyway fun facts aside, when the tobacco finally arrives, its presence is unmistakable. Loads of dry unlit tobacco leaves here, playing up an evocative note which probably reminds many of the men in their lives. This aspect of a scent normally wins my vote. However, considering the line's exclusivity and price point, I find TOBACCO VANILLE's linearity and simplicity too uninspiring that eating some buah kana seems to be the more satisfying option. Strictly for tobacco lovers.

After the amazing tour of the pit stop with Nostalgia, I was half-expecting a similarly macho interpretation of the Toscano il sigaro (a brand of Italian cigars). Instead what I got was a subtle take on tobacco more reminiscent of an empty cigarette box. Dude, where's my tobacco? To me TOSCANO is a pleasant low sillage skin scent with a well blended base of amber, vanilla and malt lending a complementary touch of airy sweetness to the fleeting tobacco and presumably greater mass appeal. It's wearable even on sunny days. But fans of Tobacco Vanille and richer tobacco notes may find it as hollow as that empty cigarette box, marking this release as yet another triumph of marketing sensibilities over what could have been unadulterated artistry.

In a world where fragrances tend to play like in-your-face rock music videos, Chanel's BOIS DES ILES performs more like a classical symphony from the likes of Beethoven, Bach or Rachmaninov. Some may even compare it to an opera. That this beautiful scent is nowhere near as successful as Chanel No. 5 borders on 'criminal'.

**** This review is of the EDT ****

BOIS D' IRIS is a minimalist yet sophisticated take on the iris and bears Ellena's signature 'ethereality'. For me the first whiff was like a lipstick-heavy smacker on the cheeks - it certainly left me pleasantly stunned. While far from smelling unpleasant, the scent's 'peculiar' presentation will never generate AdG-like sales nor find fans among sillage lovers. And as a commercial release it also seem to take considerable risks, push boundaries and explore a realm not many are willing nor able to venture into. Rather avant-garde IMO.

Gèrald Gheslain founded Histoire de Parfums with the idea of interpreting colorful historical characters as scents. To appreciate the scent I find it useful to understand the nature of the character it seeks to represent. For example, Casanova was a charmer not by virtue of his physical sex appeal but rather his way with words; he was the sweet-talking smooth operator - a classic ladies man. Casanova was never about macho posturing or sexual aggression; I was therefore correct not to expect 'heavy-duty masculinity' nor anything 'raunchy' from this release. Instead, like its namesake, 1725 CASANOVA is a smooth teasingly sweet scent that seeks to romance its way into the hearts of many ladies. And I find it closer in spirit to Guerlain's Spiritueuse Double Vanille than it is to Givenchy's Pi. A worthy addition to my decant collection.

A milder, more modern interpretation of the masculine woody aromatic. The astute selection of spices lends an interesting contrast to the oft-unruly cedar for a tighter composition with few rough edges. I can't detect the leather either. While not particularly outstanding, I find BLACK MARK to be as comforting as the easy-going charms of a favorite uncle. This is indeed a well-tailored option for the confident man.

Smells cheap. Looks cheap. Price is anything but cheap. This is nothing but a marketing stunt or a practical joke; I half expected the Just for Laughs crew to appear when I was trying this on. I guess such a bad first impression was enough for me to disqualify CLEAN MEN from a fuller review. Next!

Green minty opening that fades all too quickly to an obscure drydown on my skin. I was hoping for more SWISS ARMY-style versatility but this is just another rank-and-file addition to the fresh-but-bland brigade. Nowhere near as useful as the knife, this scent calls out "At ease!" when it could have been "Atten-tion!"

Very warm, rather exotic - like an incensey potpourri of wood shavings and rose petals on a bed of glowing embers. This was the best part for me; for a moment I thought I had just stepped into a lost ancient temple where dark-robed monks chant long-forgotten mantras in an incense-filled inner sanctum. But back to reality. I hate the cheapo lab bottle design but the drydown definitely smells 'high quality', much in the same vein as the better packaged Amouage's Jubilation XXV. And if you're looking for a masculine rose scent that commands respect, put ROSE 31 on your test list. You'll be glad you did.

The scent that inspired Odori's Cuoio imho. In fact, CUIRON is probably how Cuoio would feel like after a couple of tranquilizers and I mean this in a good way for Helmut Lang's rendition is undeniably a calmer, more sure-footed performer. The top notes stay fresh without resorting to the customary tartness of citruses or the zing of pepper and the development remains dry with nary a hint of powder. Nothing truly extraordinary. But when the leather finally emerges it serves a powerful reminder why it deserves all the accolades it has garnered since its 2002 release. And if you think 'sensual leather' sounds utterly bogus, wait till your woman smells this on you...

SPIRITUEUSE DOUBLE VANILLE. Sounds like a drink, doesn't it? Had it appeared on a drinks menu I'm quite certain nobody would have done a double take. In fact I find the opening to be deliciously effervescent and vanillic, rather reminiscent of ice cream soda which is a favorite drink of mine since I was 7. A reviewer even compared it to vanilla liqueur. And I must say I agree with him for this is indeed an intoxicating scent, one which easily finds a top 3 spot among my preferred vanilla masterpieces.

Hmmm...did I get the wrong sample? The last time I smelled detergent, I didn't have to shell out 200 bucks. Granted, there is something fresh and refined in the leather drydown that I like but for the price, I'd rather sprinkle on some detergent. And if you don't like Helmut Lang's Cuiron chances are you won't like CUOIO either.

If you like your leather scent to be less floral but more leather-like, look no further. This is the real deal. Unlike fine leather impressionists such as Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur and Serge Lutens' Daim Blond, CUIR OTTOMAN's florals are subdued enough to allow for a more realistic projection of the leather scent you smell off shoes, bags, even furniture. There is also a certain dry 'saltiness' about it that reminds me of preserved fruits and I find myself salivating. While I can imagine men wearing this, this is not for me - I don't wish to smell like a pair of shoes. I also think the only women who can pull this scent off with panache are the leather-clad rock chicks. But then again, with that much leather in their attire, they probably won't be needing this scent at all.

The fresh almost fruity-sweet opening is a welcome reflief from the near-cliched citrus tops. It holds my interest even further with its cool, watery texture rather reminiscent of wet leaves after a rainfall. Unfortunately 10 minutes is about as far as it had me under its thrall as I find the progression lacking in focus and somewhat generic. Sillage is not a strong suit either. Hard to believe that the nose behind this creation was Thierry Wasser, who in 2008 was appointed by Guerlain to be its in-house perfumer. Only time will tell if that was a bad move for Guerlain but judging by ANGEL SCHLESSER HOMME and his other creations which include Armani Diamonds and Diesel Fuel for Life for Her, I'd be worried.

A victim of hype through no fault of its own. The heart of the scent is all creamy vanilla and a sprinkle of cinnamon, with a powdery feel that is reminiscent of opoponax in Shalimar. To me MUSC RAVAGEUR is rather gourmand-esque if it isn't for the animalic, rather dirty note that I presume to be a deftly rendered musk. However it is notoriously elusive. And oddly enough, despite being a denser element the musk is more noticeable in the opening minutes yet somehow pulls a disappearing act thereafter. Musk lovers will no doubt find this disappointing but it is the fleeting nature of the musk that makes this more wearable (read: unisex). And if what I hear is true, the musky note retains a subtle presence in the sillage even if it seems odorless to the wearer. Just don't expect Musc Ravageur to be the sexy beast the name suggests when its charm is closer to that of a cute pussycat.

*** this review is for Musc Ravageur Oil ***

JUBILATION XXV pops open with a fizz, much like uncorking a bottle of fine wine. If that carbonated whiff is the work of Iso E Super then I'm thankful it doesn't stick around - it smells too synthetic. Anyway, the rummy yet dry opening swiftly recedes to herald the arrival of a sumptuous if not opulent blend of dried fruit and spices amidst smoky incense and resinuous woods. But wait - haven't I smelled this before? You bet. By Kilian's Straight To Heaven is another similar equally potent take on the celebratory toast and was released in that same year. Coincidence? Perhaps. But I figured Bertrand Duchaufour and Sidonie Lancesseur had probably met and given each other a toast in celebration of their next pricey creation. "Here's to extravagance and credit card debts. Salut!"

If you think Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur is a touch too floral or feminine then you would probably dig this. I know I do though 'dig' is putting it mildly; this stuff is fantastic! The opening salvo of car leather interiors, screeching tires and gasoline leaks puts me in the bucket seat of a Dodge Charger as I floor the pedal to the metal and go from 0 to 100 in 10 seconds. Breathtaking! Unfortunately from that point onwards it goes into cruise control mode with a smooth vanilla-tinged leather punctuated with hints of gasoline and grease. I guess that's the cue for me to check out the breathless young beauty in the passenger seat and chat her up. I'm just surprised someone like Nathan Branch don't get it. But I can't really blame him. The deceptively dull bottle design has a dampening effect on reviews though it's certainly not something a whiff of NOSTALGIA can't overcome. Btw, my birthday is due in 2 weeks; can someone please get me a bottle or two?

Lets face it, nobody wants their skin to smell of leather. Tell me of someone who does and I'll show you a liar. What people really want is a fragrance that evokes pleasant memories associated with the use of leather. For example, the smell of leather equipment as you gear up for a round of polo with your fraternity brothers, or perhaps the feel of luxury as you recline comfortably on a chaise lounge of velvety pale leather. And that's what Heeley's CUIR PLEINE FLEUR is to me - a scent reminiscent of luxurious, fine leather with floral notes of mimosa, hawthorn blossom and violet leaf bringing a soft powdery and somewhat sensual 'Yin' into harmony with the harsher, more masculine 'Yang' as represented by the triumvirate of vetiver, birch and castoreum. In one word? FABULOUS.

Leather is one of the hardest-to-nail accords, and even harder to appreciate imo. Preconceived ideas about what each leather type should smell like often interfere with the process of appreciating leather-inspired scents. That's why someone who is visualising a biker's leather jacket and expecting to smell its scent is likely to have a tough time appreciating a scent more reminiscent of other types of leather. Similarly if you sample DAIM BLOND expecting a distinct suede or leather accord, you'd be in for a disappointment. But as I understand it, this was never meant to be a leather scent per se. It was meant to impart to its wearer a sense of luxury with its velvety smooth yet luxurious take on fine leather, very much along the lines of Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur or Chanel's Cuir de Russie. And if you could somehow appreciate this idea I'm pretty sure Daim Blond would fit you like a glove.

No.3 L'IMPERATRICE - The Star. Vibrant and magnetic, she exudes charisma and force of character. All heads turn when she enters a room. LOL, no way - not unless it is a room full of parched throats. For the scent is the equivalent of a serving of succulent melons and ripe pink guava. I smell no kiwis nor watermelons, both of which are listed as notes despite their rather shy scents but whatever, I'm just too disappointed; someone has deemed it fit that the 'signature' note for The Star should be a fruit. What a fruitcake! Nevertheless this is an appealing scent that will find adoring fans among young women.

No.1 LE BATELEUR - The Seducer. Provocative and playful - ragingly passionate yet enviably cool - this is a man who gets what he wants. Now you know why ad agencies make a mint. Words inspire. And inspiration often create wonders. But in this case, it's best you forget the inspiration behind the scent. Le Bateleur will do no seducing on your behalf; it's simply not up to it. Sorry. The ginger opening note reminds me of Kenzo Tokyo somewhat but without the winter element that makes Tokyo interesting, Le Bateleur's straight game shows itself for what it is - a pricey spicy drugstore sports fragrance - one that will never inspire me to buy.

No.6 L'AMOUREAUX - The Charmer. Desired by all he meets, melts the most cynical of hearts, this charmer is all about intensity. I agree with the 'intensity' bit. This is bullshit in all its intensity. And that's why people will buy this stuff - bullshit sells! Especially if it smells as charming as L'Amoureaux. The bergamot, juniper and pink pepper opening salvo is sharply reminiscent of Green Irish Tweed's own but faster than you can say 'clone' it reveals a powdery mildly woodsy heart and a hint of musk. Pleasant, even predictable, especially to experienced noses. Those same noses will hopefully remember that while a handful have done richer and tighter takes of the genre, many others have fared worse. But to judge a scent on its own merit, this is not all that bad. Easily wearable if not generic.

No.10 LA ROUE DE LA FORTUNE - The Player. Adventurous and creative - the epitome of surprise - its wearers are intrepid, experimental, players of life's game. Corny marketing taglines aside, I'm surprised I kinda like this one. The opening floral bouquet hits me with the subtlety of a brick but it does so without overwhelming. Maybe I'm so used to hitting into brickwalls. However, picking out the listed jasmine, gardenia and tuberose notes proves to be far too challenging for my mortal nose. Blame it on the brickwalls if you will though I suspect the benzoin is the culprit who runs interference. He killed the patchouli too I bet since I detect none. With drydown approaching, the florals shuffle towards the exits while the gourmand aspect takes haltering steps towards centerstage. And what I'm left with in the end is a delicious whiff of vanilla-esque custard. Yum-my. I love custard.

No. 18 LA LUNE - The Dreamer. Fresh yet sensual - a perfect enigma. Or so the ads say. I find it fresh and slightly soapy but nothing sensual in this blend of lily, tuberose, orris, sandlewood, musk and white leather. To me it feels more like a cross between Tommy Girl and Paul Smith Story with a frugality of notes which hint at 'cheap' or 'synthetic'. And that's what the collection of washed out notes is making this out to be - a perfume on a tight budget. A shame really. In the hands of a master I believe the combination of notes can be a killer but I must concede even a master can't do much with the pocket change of a 5th grader.

Opoponax. Vanilla. Benzoin. Amber. Sandalwood. What could've easily been a syrupy and cloyingly sweet fragrance is given a dry resinuous finish to produce one of the smoothest blends I've had the pleasure to smell. I'm nobody's fool but a woman could easily put me under a spell with IMPERIAL OPOPONAX. No extensive list of exotic ingredients, no marketing gimmicks, no pretenses. Just beauty in simplicity, perfection in execution. Are you paying attention, Mr. John Varvatos?

I wasn't too impressed with the rummy opening. Felt like I was at a bar counter which is not exactly my favorite place in the world. But I can see why others might be thrilled over such an association, particularly if they had been involved in some drunken stunts Jackass-styled or recalled sex(y) romps with some beautiful strangers they met at the bar. Then the realisation hit me and I couldn't help but chuckled. STRAIGHT TO HEAVEN is really a tongue-in-cheek attempt at capturing these fun alcohol-influenced madness. But it stays true to Kilian's cognac-maker heritage, the rum and woods combining magnificently to create a fragrance which is, according to this niche house, "redolent of the sugar in alcohol and the wood of cognac barrels."

Dude, this smells just heavenly. But is that a cognac barrel you're wearing? And who is this naked chick? Where the hell are my pants??

Impressive looking bottle to showcase this 2006 creation from Nathalie Lorson who by the way had also composed Lalique's Encre Noire in that same year. But looks aside, TRUSSARDI INSIDE does away with the archetypical 3-level pyramid and dives right inside the heart of the scent from the get-go, unleashing a mild, rather dry woodsy aroma punctuated with pepper and coffee accords. As it dries down, the pepper fades into the background to reveal subtle hints of tobacco on top of the woods. It's funny how I suddenly found myself thinking of expensive furniture in dark wood panelled stores. Perhaps that's what this skin scent reminds me of - classy elegance. It certainly bears that quiet self assuredness you tend to find among men of worldly experience, the kind of men who simply don't give a damn about whether or not you can smell this scent on him.

------- from Fragrantica.com -------
TOP: bergamot, basil, yuzu
MIDDLE: coffee, white pepper, tobacco leaf
BASE: teak, cashmere, musk

This certainly brings back the memories; my first love wore it, so did my ex wife. Herein lies the problem, scent associations by memory. People you associate certain fragrances with have the power to 'make or break' a scent for you; if you had first smelled this off an old lady, you probably tend to think of this as 'old' or 'dated'. Luckily for me I happen to associate this fragrance with 2 beautiful women who had had a huge impact on my life. Still it is with considerable conscious effort that I make an attempt to describe BEAUTIFUL for what it is: a heady floral blend with the 80's trademark sillage and longevity, and bearing an uncanny resemblance to Halston (1975). I prefer my women's perfumes to be light and teasingly fleeting, elegant and classy, or sensual and mysterious. Beautiful is none of these; not when a heavier application easily turns 'heady' into 'headache-inducing'.

A spritz of this and I find myself back in the early 80's, at the barbers. Just what is it about barbershop scents that appeal to us men more than the sweet fruity offerings we get these days? Perhaps it has to do with all the positive associations we attach to the art of personal grooming. The immaculately blended scent smells fresh yet masculine; the drydown is as smooth and deeply satisfying as a good clean shave. And that's what AZZARO POUR HOMME is - a no-nonsense approach to personal grooming.

If you grew up with a wardrobe of wimpy watered down bubble-bath colognes, POLO would probably be too much for you and your whussy friends to handle. That's ok. This gentlemen's club doesn't need you. Not that you meet the entry requirements in the first place. Go back to your tutti-fruities and please take your girlfriend with you. She's still hanging around outside wondering where the guy who smells so fabulously different went.

I grew up near the sea so I know the smell of seaweed; it is essentially briny but probably too subtle to have that much of an impact on a fragrance. In any case Ralph Lauren's website only mentions a 'sea breeze' accord which instantly made me think of Ferragamo's Subtil, just not POLO SPORT. For me, this scent opens with an effervescent, alcohol-fueled sucker punch which jolts you awake before settling down to a sweet somewhat boozy miasma of 'cucumber and melon', to my nose at least, without relying on cheat sheets. I know fresh aquatics get little love around here but this one gets mine; I finished 2 bottles of the juice! So if you're sick of yours, be a sport, send them my way. And remind me again why Cool Water finished second best in the early '90s.

A trendy scent and I don't mean it in a good way. Ambery sweet with a hint of spice, like twenty other scents I've sampled this year alone. And what leather are they talking about? To claim that there is 'leather' when none exists is indeed a brave thing to do. Unless my nose fails me, I suspect someone probably screwed up and forgot to include it in the brief to the perfumer.

Like I said, this is an extraordinary scent. Extraordinarily common. Only the brave would laugh in the face of trends and walk his path alone if necessary. Only the brave would pick this tacky bottle up and calls it 'original'...and 'bravely' joins the ranks of 'only the inexperienced', 'only the deluded', well...you get the drift. While this is not a bad scent, ONLY THE BRAVE ventures into safe, well known territory and that also-ran attitude has little in common with the word 'brave'. I guess the guys at Diesel must have an oddly wicked sense of humor. Now if only one particular finger in the bottle fist-design sticks out...that would have been brave.

The opening notes fail to impress me, which strangely enough puts me at ease now that I'm more wary of scents with 'big hooks' in the top. As the middle reveals the calming lavender I realise the 'aqua' in this is likely metaphorical. This is a breezy, soothing scent akin to taking an afternoon dip in the pool. HERRERA AQUA is fuss-free and easily wearable, right down to the smooth and pleasant drydown. Suitable for all those occasions when the only statement you wish to make is 'No comment'.

----------- from fragrantica.com -----------
TOP: bamboo leaves, mandarin orange, fig leaf, bergamot
MIDDLE: rosemary, white pepper, lavender, neroli
BASE: tonka bean, amber, musk and vetiver

Winter in the orient. That's the impression I got when I took my first sniff of this cool lightly spiced fragrance. And for that alone I must applaud the house of Kenzo. The use of ginger is deft yet subtle, the note often fleeting but when it does appear, it is unmistakable and I find myself back in a Japanese restaurant refreshing my palate with a slice of pickled ginger before my next sushi. Unfortunately both sillage and longevity are suspect and I certainly don't fancy the idea of having to re-apply it every 2 hours. TOKYO is nonetheless a fine scent which sits well with me. But Tokyo being the bustling city that it is, I would sooner call this 'Hokkaido' or as zztopp pointed out, 'Kyoto'. Maybe we just tend to romanticize these things...

Smells very much like a green tea scent I tried from Yves Rocher in the early 1990s. Refreshingly light and beautiful, a scent of meadows in spring, a gentle reminder of all that is pure and innocent. I just couldn't help but think of my 10 year old little girl. Perhaps that's the inspiration behind this fragrance. Huh? Nobody else got that? Please don't tell me you agreed with Luca Turin when he listed this as a feminine fragrance men can wear. Just what were you guys smoking?

Great looking bottle! Uh, that's it. If you're looking for a scent that 'promises more than it delivers' then this IS vintage, Varvatos-style. Some bright moments here and hopeful notes there, but altogether just too sporadic for VINTAGE to make any lasting impression on me. If I could offer just one advice to John Varvatos' camp, please put Jean-Claude Ellena or Jacques Cavallier on the payroll. Pronto!

Dates seem to feature prominently for me this month not least because it is the month of Ramadhan when Muslims customarily break their fast with this sweet fruit. JOHN VARVATOS is probably the first scent I know that uses dates; a gamble or more of a marketing gimmick as the fruit is better known for its taste than its fragrance. I find its projection rather 'creamy', mildly fruity even - an aspect which women seem to find appealing. While I do recognize the scent of a biker's leather jacket amidst the ambery vanilla drydown, I just wish the note features more prominently rather than as an afterthought. Still a worthy buy in my books even if the scent falls short of delivering what the handsome bottle promises.

Cool and self-assured, personified. Imitation as a form of flattery rarely works in favour of the original. But I feel Creed should thank Davidoff's COOL WATER for introducing a new, youthful market segment to its own line. Just don't be dismayed if a young person smelling Green Irish Tweed for the first time were to go 'OMG, this is a Cool Water rip off!" Heh.

Why am I not surprised that Jean-Claude Ellena is the genius behind this ethereal, almost surreal scent? It certainly bears his signature. I shall not attempt to describe the scent as zztopp has already hit a home-run with his earlier review, particularly on that distinctive green mango. I would however add that if it wasn't for the luscious mango accord, this would have been a ho-hum affair at best. But as an impressionist concept I think UN JARDIN SUR LE NIL is almost flawless in its execution; an afternoon stroll through an orchard by the river Nile. Just that with a poorly cultured nose like mine, all I could think of was a fruit stall on a sultry afternoon. But that doesn't have quite the same ring to it, does it?

Don't judge a book by its cover or so the advice goes. Similarly, don't judge a fragrance by its bottle. Nor the name it is marketed under for that matter. Well, for once I didn't listen to that advice. How could I? I could forgive Sean John's Unforgivable rip off act for its excellent reproduction of a great scent. But USHER is just 'bland' when it has no right to be and shares nothing remotely in common with its celebrity namesake. I get the uneasy feeling that a chunk of the investment behind this insipid mess went to the celebrity first, the bottle designer next and whatever was left to the perfumer. In fact if you were to ask Usher to sample this scent, don't be surprised if he goes, "What the **** ?" This one sucks, brutha!

I gave this recent release from Givenchy a run today. Andrewthecologneguy had mentioned a 'tar note' which intrigued me greatly but my nose fails to detect any. Neither is 'tar' listed as a note. It is nevertheless pleasant in its sweet powdery yet airy essence; I find its approach is closer to Salvador Dali's Black Sun than it is to Armani's edgier rendition with Code. But for the guys at Givenchy to jump on the trend bandwagon, they must be getting pretty desperate. Ultimately I find PLAY INTENSE to be too much of a Code rip off that not even Justin Timberlake can bring 'sexy' back.

CHERGUI. First impression: amazing but somewhat mainstream. It certainly smells luxurious like an expensive perfume for a gentleman. The development is complex and the drydown may be a little honey-laden for some though it retains an aura of masculinity with a deft touch of smoky tobacco. Overall this is a heady scent women could easily love on their guy; in fact a young female passenger was leaning ever closer towards me on the train ride home. An unequivocal BUY.

I remember this to be a casual, mildly fruity aquatic which bears wearing in summer. I could see a trio of buddies on a road trip, cruising down the coast towards Malibu, wearing dark shades, a beautiful tan and of course, TOMMY.

In the late 1980s there was a chemical incident which became the subject of one of the biggest cover-ups in American history. Scores of people were injured, among them women who grew hysterical while many others were found to be mentally incapacitated albeit temporarily. Only one man came out of it smiling. His name? Calvin Klein.

Frag Bomb Unit was activated; someone had detonated OBSESSION...

The scent evokes memories of an afternoon rainfall over sun-baked red earth and scorched clay. I found myself back in the infantry unit again as Bravo company made that 20 mile trek across desert terrain to reach the rendezvous point. Warm, desert-dry and ruggedly masculine, TERRE D'HERMES is another fantastic creation from perfume wizard Jean-Claude Ellena.

It was late summer 1994 and I was on a 6 week assignment with a travel agency just off Piccadily Circus. On one of the evenings, a group of us headed off to a bar for drinks and had a blast at karaoke, making complete arses of ourselves. That's what this scent reminds me of - 'making arses of ourselves'. OK, just kidding. I'm talking about the atmosphere. From the peppery boozy opening right to the mildly powdery sweetness tinged with tobacco smoke. Unfortunately, longevity issues mean the fun ends rather abruptly with someone yelling "Hey, stop hogging the mike...!"

I'm puzzled. Why do certain scents evoke vivid imagery while others don't? Whenever I smell SAMSARA, I find myself in a tale from A Thousand and One Nights as a dashing adventurer in search of fame and fortune. My daring exploits eventually brought me to the attention of the Caliph's shapely and exquisitely beautiful daughter who summoned me to her private chambers late one evening. While it is ungentlemanly to describe what happened next I could still recall the opulence of her room in its shades of red, burgundy and mahogany. And I remember smiling as I left the next morning, her hauntingly beautiful scent still lingering on my skin. UNFORGETTABLE.

Some people like their aquatics clean and simple. Others look for complexity. Bulgari's Aqua belongs to the latter group and can't seem to decide if it wants to be oceanic or it wants to be exotic. Perhaps neither. I've been following Jacques Cavallier's scents for a while and I find Aqua seems to lack the smooth signature of his earlier creations such as pour Homme. Nevertheless, I do find this 'dirty marine' take on the genre rather interesting. But if I'm after 'fresh aquatic' I'd look elsewhere.

A massive 1994 hit from Jacques Cavallier, I dare say L'Eau D'Issey pH was the inspiration behind Giorgio Armani's wildly successful 1996 release, Acqua di Gio. Fortunately for me it fell short of achieving the latter's insane popularity and thus remains sufficiently obscure, at least in my part of the world. Guys, women adore this scent even if you find it a little too safe. Let no amount of hype detract from the fact that this scent truly belongs in the pantheon of great fresh/aquatic fragrances.

I find this scent very feminine in its demure yet classy presentation of rose and jasmine, with a vintage feel that lends it an air of old world sophistication. Another elegant masterpiece from the house of Bulgari.

TOP: bergamot, violet leaves, orange blossom
MIDDLE: jasmine sambac, mimosa, rose
BASE: iris, musk, sandalwood

Curious as to how a 1927 fragrance survived to this day, I got hold of ARPEGE. My curiosity quickly turned to surprise and then disappointment. Perhaps the sample had gone 'bad' but the scent felt rather masculine and reminded me of the ubiquitous prayer attar used by Muslim men. While the drydown is pleasant enough it can't seem to shake off the dowdy character. Nonetheless I would take this review with a healthy pinch of salt as earlier reviewers have highlighted the poorer notes coming from the smaller samples. As it stands this classic deserves a neutral at best. At least until I get hold of a larger sample.

I believe my housemate from my university days had effectively ruined this one for me. For eternity too I might add. Back in 1994, this short, wannabe-cool guy used to douse himself in CK's Eternity before hitting the clubs and I still remember getting headaches from it. Well, I got hold of a free mini recently and a whiff of it swiftly brought me back to those carefree days of youth. It also triggered the same annoying headache. Anyway I think '90s just called; they wanted their Eternity back.

I much prefer Solo to this unoriginal flanker which smells just like another 'rank and file' addition to the gym scent army. Not even the attractively constructed bottle can help it survive a beating from the likes of Azzaro's Chrome. *Yawn*

It's hard to ignore the hype surrounding this scent so it was with great expectations that I sampled Green Irish Tweed. And walked away disappointed. Sure, there are similarities to Cool Water which compels me to ask myself, "Why don't I just get the Davidoff and spend the rest on a scent from another niche house?" Makes perfect sense to me. I would have given this overhyped and overpriced scent a 'Neutral' but an irritating headache-inducing astringent note similar to what I experienced with CK's Eternity pushed it over the edge. Fellow Basenoters will agree with me that there are much better fragrances from Creed.

I am a fan of powdery sweet scents but I found GIVENCHY PI to be too synthetic for my taste. Perhaps it was too difficult to achieve just the right balance with the benzoin crystals, resulting in a blend that is creamy but somewhat bland. And there really is no vanilla in here. Vanilla to me is always vibrant yet this element is noticeably missing from Pi. Still I can appreciate how easily the sweetness could have been misconstrued. And as pretty as the bottle may be, Pi simply has no chance of displacing Arpege pour Homme from my wardrobe.

Powdery pseudo-floral with more than a hint of the exotic, boasting decent sillage and longevity. This is a fine creation from Olivier Polge, one that will find fans among both men and women. More power to Kenzo!

Sweet yet devoid of warmth. Cold even. I'm not sure how this was achieved but I feel this intriguing combo gives it an edge over Givenchy's other saccharin offering, Pi. And strangely enough the image I had when sampling XERYUS ROUGE was of a tall glass of ice cold red rose cordial on a sultry afternoon.

Don't let the poor sillage and longevity stop you; STORY is easily wearable. So go ahead and go crazy with this one. The first time I tried it the grapefruit in the top notes kicked like a mule. But a second wearing quickly unveiled a green heart which is nothing like the astringent pine note in Bowling Green. Rather it is softer, with perhaps a touch of floral that reminds me of my time in the military, lying in concealment among dew-covered ferns and leaves, waiting to ambush the enemy troops. Just before the crack of dawn. But that's another story...

Monsieur Balmain is a refreshing take on the citrus genre very much in the mold of Acqua di Parma's Colonia; the lemon invigoratingly fresh and au naturale. Unlike many other citrus opening acts, however, the lemon accord maintains its cheerful presence well into the heart notes giving the smooth sandalwood an interesting edge. Excellent, bottle-worthy juice!

One of Calvin Klein's better offerings in recent years, definitely more interesting than CK One or Euphoria imho. MAN opens crisply with zesty pepper which lingers well into the lightly incensey heart notes. Rather modern and masculine, I'm just surprised it hasn't had more reviews. This could well be a sleeper.

Warm like the 'Sun'. 'Black' like it's pitch dark, and you can't see where you are going. So it is with this sweet, powdery scent. Salvador Dali's Black Sun has trouble finding its way beyond that of being the less handsome cousin of Armani Code.

Ditto what the earlier reviewers said about the notes; they are rather distinctive and decipherable, making Grey Flannel one of the easily recognisable scents. Nothing remotely dated about it either. If I didn't know the production history I would never, not in a million years, have guessed it to be a product of the '70s. This is truly an amazing, groundbreaking scent which will make a fine addition to any gentleman's wardrobe. I hope it will never be discontinued.

An award winning fragrance with many positive reviews. You can't possibly go wrong with this one, right? WRONG. This is a 'TRY BEFORE YOU BUY'. A nasty fecal note that refuses to budge after 2 hours sent me looking for some rubbing alcohol. I will probably try this again some time in the future. Just not over the next year or two.

Lacoste's Essential is in essence, UNPRETENTIOUS. And that's what I like most about it.

'noir' - French for 'black'. Also related to the 'dark solemn mood' lighting used by film-makers in the 1940s.

With a name like 'Jasmin Noir', I would be forgiven for expecting a dark, deep and rather heady jasmine scent that conveys all these known associations with the word 'noir'. Instead all I got was a warm floral done in the typical Bulgari style: ephemeral and fleeting. Not that this is necesarily bad as it does make the scent eminently more versatile and wearable. My fiancee likes it. But someone looking for a more seductive and mysterious take on the jasmine signature would do better with Guerlain's Samsara. It is a pity really as I was tempted to buy Jasmin Noir for the gorgeous bottle alone.

Ahh, vetiver. A root problem for many reviewers it seems, pun intended. There appears to be some confusion surrounding Lanvin's updated (butchered?) version of its '60s original particularly in comparison to its more illustrious counterpart from Guerlain. Is there or is there not 'vetiver' in this one? If you're looking for the 'musty, earthy' notes commonly associated with vetiver root you won't find it here. Lanvin's vetiver is much softer and greener, quite easily missed. The difference could be due to the nature of the raw vetiver or the derived vetiver oil post disillation. Whatever it was, it makes for a quieter scent that wears closer to your skin. Perhaps it won't find fans among sillage lovers but I rather like its understated elegance.

First impression: cheap soap, the kind you buy in long rectangular slabs. But if you can somehow get past the soapy accords, you may well notice something quite refined and understated about IdH. And the more wearing it gets the more it grows on you. IdH is so clean smelling you'd feel as though you've just stepped out of the shower, freshly scrubbed. I dare say it beats many gym scents out there simply by changing the rules of the game!

This is a scent that will no doubt polarize reviewers and for that I applaud Prada for the risky yet bold move. For me, the scent evokes memories of my childhood. I was 5 or 6 then and my mom was doing the laundry, scrubbing away at a washboard with a bar of coarse yellow soap. Nostalgia is rarely experienced these days; for a scent to evoke one from as far back as my early childhood, I must say "well done."

Ever since I tried the original Polo, I've been a fan of Ralph Lauren. I even finished two bottles of Polo Sport! So it was with high hopes that I sampled Polo Black, yet another best seller from this great house. Like many other 'unenlightened' customer I was hooked by the 'amazing' top notes and promptly made my full bottle purchase within 5 minutes of smelling it. How bad can it be? It's a Polo from Ralph Lauren! As I discovered later the development to the drydown leaves much to be desired; I can't even remember the last time I felt like wearing Polo Black. Now whenever I open the drawer to pick a scent, the still-heavy 4.2oz bottle serves me yet another reminder of those 'dark' days before joining Basenotes.

After rolling my eyes at the oft-offered Pi Neo, I grabbed GG and gave my arm a spritz, the bright invigorating opening notes taking off like a citrus-scented rocket. A few minutes later the notes glided down smoothly to fine powdery woodsy notes reminiscent of Azzaro pour Homme's own amazing drydown. I had expected to sense an outdated miasma around a scent launched in 1974 but there was none. I think GG has been reformulated to give it a more updated feel but thankfully it retains enough of its vintage charm to remain a classic gentleman's fragrance.

"Mm-mmh, who's wearing that heavenly scent??"

Somehow reminiscent of CK's Obsession for Women, this without a doubt is a scent that turns heads, especially men's. I wouldn't be surprised if Colonel Frank Slade himself goes "HOO-AH!" Everytime I catch a whiff of it, I've come to expect a sexy, confident young woman sashaying near me. I feel they are the sort who can really pull it off, certainly not the meek nor the shy, according to Tom Ford. Small wonder that it has become a wildly popular choice among the teenage club-hopping wannabes, which is a pity really. Tacky plasticky bottle notwithstanding, Gucci Rush deserves a wider audience especially among stylish, sophisticated young women. Oh well, in another 10 years perhaps.

If you're interested in getting the biggest bang from your buck, look no further. If you are one of those who complain about scents which don't last or project too feebly, you may stop whining now. Get Bogart pour homme. I honestly think this should be reclassified as a frag bomb, a true olfactory weapon. Not only is sillage measured in terms of killing zones, its longevity is probably closer to uranium's radioactive decay. OK, I admit the cost of its ingredients probably won't buy you an empty Amouage bottle, but Bogart pH is a welcome throwback to the 1980's when masculine powerhouse scents ruled and bubblegummy tutti-fruities were for schoolgirls.

Well, what are you waiting for? Grab a bottle, lads, splash it on and watch your neighbors' daughters swoon from across the road. Join me in ENJOYING this!

This is surprisingly good. Probably the smoothest ride from Ferrari's stable. I know that's not saying much but a guy who just ventured into the world of colognes could easily do a lot worse than picking FB. An affordable yet pleasant choice, it beats quite a few of the designer citruses at their game.

Azzaro's CHROME took on the overcrowded 'fresh' genre and gave it a metallic twist. Others might find it too 'rusty' smelling but whenever I spray this on, I feel like X-men's Colossus as he transforms himself into a living man of steel. AWE-SOME!

The opening is gorgeously green with just the right hints of spice but as it progresses towards the drydown, all I got was sackloads of cardamom. I noticed Lavender, Jasmine and Artemisia listed in the heart notes but on my skin these florals were absent; overwhelmed no doubt by the rampaging spice notes. Perhaps the sultry weather is to blame. In any case I went home for a quick scrub before anyone mistook me for a sweaty "Spice Guy'.

A second wearing on a cooler day however brings a noticeably different dimension: it is a lot greener and the spices less rampant. I could also detect a fleeting powdery floral note before it gets chased away by the spice. As much as I like the masculine green opening, I can only give this a neutral. Certainly one of those scents that should come with a user's manual stating: "For use in COOL DRY WEATHER only."

I really love the original so I had high hopes for Soir. But all I got out of it was a scent reminiscent of milk tea laced with a little spice. As discrete as many of Bulgari's tea-based scents, Soir somehow leaves me unsatisfied and looking for more.

It says 'Halston Cologne' on the bottle and marketed as a 'unisex' scent. At least that's what the SA told me. Now I'm someone who thinks nothing of wearing women's perfume as long as the notes fit but a spritz on the wrist convinced me that this isn't one of those times. The smell was nevertheless vaguely familiar...like a scent worn by someone I once knew. Then it hit me. Beautiful by Estee Lauder! My ex girlfriend wore it. So did my ex wife. Just by association alone, that's probably enough for me to give it a neutral rating. But objectively I can imagine women wearing Halston and enjoying it.

A fine scent on its own though it remains firmly in the shade of Jacques Cavallier's original. At the risk of sounding like an ad for battteries, Extreme is stronger and lasts longer but somehow lacks the finely wrought balance that gives the original its ethereal, almost magical quality.