Reviews by Diamondflame

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    Diamondflame
    Singapore Singapore

    Showing 1 to 30 of 509.
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    Geranium pour Monsieur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    It's easy to get fixated on the mint note. Yes, it is THAT distracting. But get past the minty tops and you'll find GERANIUM POUR MONSIEUR to be a smooth, bright yet confidently masculine scent that is unlike any I have tried before. The underlying tinge of bitterness, and a touch of incense make this one a winner but its overall synthetic vibe brings it down a notch for me.

    Likely to be one of those fragrances that gets selected much less frequently from your wardrobe but when worn, makes you wonder why you don't wear it more often.

    9th November, 2011.

    rating

    En Passant by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    This is the sort of cool and wet green floral scent you catch in passing as you walk past a windswept garden, or trudge along the edge of a dew-drenched forest. You can smell it in whiffs but you can't quite identify where the heavenly scent is coming from. The water element (presumably from the cucumber note) is well-rendered: crystal in its clarity and refreshingly cool. Projection is excellent, with more than a touch of muguet in the florals.

    I really don't understand why gender identity needs to be assigned to scents as wonderfully evocative as this. Much like PdN LeTemps d'une Fête in 2006, EN PASSANT is fit for ALL mankind. Not the most compelling of Giacobetti's compositions but extremely well-executed.

    9th November, 2011.

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    Iris Poudre by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Quiet floral opening, followed by a delicate lipstick note and a sprinkle of powder, courtesy of aldehydes. As it settles on the skin, it projects a wonderful blend of clean ambery musk with nuances of florals and sandalwood.

    IRIS POUDRE is probably Pierre Bourdon's tribute to Chanel's iconic No.5. It may be a little more demure and light on the iris but it conjures up a moment in London many years ago when an attractive female acquaintance greeted me in a way I least expected; I caught subtle florals as she approached, a whiff of powder as we embraced and a hint of lipstick from a chaste peck to my cheeks. Oh là là!

    9th November, 2011.

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    Sartorial by Penhaligon's

    Forget the hype. Forget the fougere/chypre dichotomy. Forget the grocery list of notes (I think I saw a kitchen sink note in there somewhere); they only get in the way of the SARTORIAL experience. Wearing it is like putting on your bespoke suit - yes, the one that took 3 months to perfect. You know you can wear it anytime with confidence because it's been tailored to fit you, and only you, perfectly. Sartorial evokes the crisp feel of a freshly laundered, immaculately pressed white shirt. It feels good! I don't know how Duchafour does it but this is one fragrance that lives up to the hype. I could even smell some tailor's chalk!

    Above all Sartorial is a well-made, somewhat contemporary update of a gentlemen's classic. If subtle elegance, a dignified presence, and a sense of immaculate grooming are elements of style you are after, do give this Penhaligon's a go. FBW.


    22nd October, 2011.

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    Angeliques Sous La Pluie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Fresh and crisp but woefully evanescent. ANGELIQUES SOUS LA PLUIE seems such a fancy name for a scent that reminds me, of all things...the laundry! Oh well, it's perfectly suited for the Emperor's new clothes...

    16th October, 2011.

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    French Lover / Bois d'Orage by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Arguably the best entry to one of my least-favored trends - the 'masculine pepper and woods'. BOIS D'ORAGE successfully manages to steer clear of the pitfalls which many designer versions have fallen into with their screeching, fingernails-on-chalkboard blends. I particularly enjoy the way galbanum leads the way to a warm, rather close-wearing skin scent that transports me away to a sun-dappled footpath through some long forgotten woods.

    16th October, 2011.

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    Le Parfum de Thérèse by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    LE PARFUM DE THERESE is predominantly floral but is far from the 'heady bouquet' territory with its highly elegant profile and very classy feel. No surprises to why it reminds me strongly of Diorissimo - both were composed by Edmond Roudnitska and share similiar DNA, especially with the noticeable presence of muguet which is not listed.

    I'd dearly love to catch a whiff of its sillage but I reckon very few ladies have the poise to do it justice. Malle was indeed lucky to land this masterpiece; on the shoulders of giants, it stands heads above the rest.

    16th October, 2011.

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    Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    "What's in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet."
    - Juliet Capulet in Romeo & Juliet

    Clearly Shakespeare wasn't a rose fragrance enthusiast for the variance and nuances among rose scents are mind-boggling. I usually prefer my roses dewy fresh though there have been notable exceptions. UNE ROSE is anything but dewy. It is plummy yet transparent, with a prominent woodsy undertone and a wine-like vibe that I found alluring in the beginning but soon wore out its welcome with its grating, somewhat acetonal presence.

    Une Rose did knock my socks off though - with its pricetag.

    15th October, 2011.

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    En Avion by Caron

    EN AVION is akin to an elegantly executed choreography involving neroli, rose and carnation. No overbearing notes, nothing strident as far as my nose can tell, just a pleasurably smooth ride from take-off to landing. I don't really get any distinct leather accord but this is probably one of those times when the total is greater than the sum of its parts. Do try and get some of it on the fabric of your clothes - it's divine!

    ******** This review is of the non-vintage parfum ********

    26th September, 2011.

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    Coup de Fouet by Caron

    A firecracker. And I meant that in the literal sense. Totally unexpected. Even when the fragrance finally settled down to a lightly spiced, mossy-floral blend, I was still entranced by the cracking opening. Enchanté.

    26th September, 2011.

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    Or et Noir by Caron

    Deep, dark and luscious, OR ET NOIR is a classic rose soliflore destined for the lady who lives on the edge yet loves being the center of attention. Definitely not a rose for the blushing bride.

    26th September, 2011.

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    N'Aimez Que Moi by Caron

    The heart of this vintage is the rose. But it does not sit alone. Violet, lilac & iris are listed but as support players they exist as nuances, and are not quite as easily identifiable as the central rose accord. To smell the rose, one has to get really close to the skin. It is a deep dark rose with a slight metallic tinge, certainly not of the dewy-fresh, budding variety. I'm testing the parfum which has depth to spare and unveils each layer at its own languid pace.

    While I wouldn't exactly describe this bouquet as 'fusty', the freshly powdered aura represents a style that was popular in that era but may well be viewed as 'out of its time' particularly by a generation raised on a diet of 'instant gratification'. A true fragrance connoisseur however will have much less of a problem appreciating this composition from Ernest Daltroff.

    26th September, 2011.

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    Aimez-Moi by Caron

    AIMEZ-MOI. What a distracting scent! There is something evocative about it that keeps my mind from note exploration which is not necessarily a bad thing.

    The effervescent minty top combines exceedingly well with a mildly powdery violet to give a delightful buoyancy to the central anise accord and the accompanying floral/woods arrangement, gently projecting a profile that is airy, softly sweet with woodsy nuances. I found it hard not to like this delightful little number even if the best part about the drydown is the excuse it offers me to reapply this fragrance again & bask in its cheerful glow all over again. I think it would be terrific on a vivacious young woman.

    25th September, 2011.

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    Narcisse Noir by Caron

    I have never smelled the vintage but I don't find the current parfum formulation remotely 'noir'. On skin NARCISSE NOIR quickly morphs into a mildly acerbic yet dry, talc-like floral - unfortunately one of many I have come across.

    I do not know what the problem is but it just doesn't grab me, much less hold my attention. Perhaps my expectation is unduly high or my floral preferences lie on the lush side but right now this Caron songbird is singing to me in a monotone.

    19th September, 2011.

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    Bois d'Argent Cologne by Christian Dior

    A shimmery and restrained composition that is warm and perceptibly rootbeer-like. Myrrh and patchouli is what I got most. No honey, no leather, and certainly no iris. At least that's what my little sampler said to my nose.

    To my mind BOIS D'ARGENT recalls Annick Goutal Myrrh Ardente, after a couple of Valiums that is. Kinda hard to get a rise out of this, know what I mean? The composition has surprising tenacity considering its frequency is pitched so low it keeps one guessing as to how much natural ingredients are actually in use. 'Bare minimum' is my guess.

    It's not a bad fragrance but at this price-point of perfumery, 'not bad' just doesn't cut it anymore.

    16th September, 2011.

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    Yatagan by Caron

    Yatagan, as I learned from a roleplaying computer game, is a curved scimitar with a single edged blade. Now why on Earth would a fragrance be named after a medieval weapon? It was probably random but I have wondered about it often. Until the day I finally obtained some.

    Man, this stuff cuts through whatever I've been smelling earlier! Bitter and bracingly herbal, it resets my olfactory nerve. For much of its development it stays this way with patchouli adding a patch of brown earth to the mostly dark mossy green composition but as drydown beckons it grows drier and a little more resinous.

    Yatagan's place in fragrance pantheon is assured and I respect that. But I doubt if I'll be wearing it anytime soon. It's a little linear and too one-dimensional for my tastes. And I have never come across a guy who smells this way so I don't quite get the masculine associations that others alluded to. I think I'd rather be intrigued smelling Yatagan on a sultry woman. Someone like Eva Green.

    12nd September, 2011.

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    Montaigne by Caron

    A few minutes alone with Caron MONTAIGNE (edp) is time enough to convince me I am in the presence of a stunning beauty. While many floral orientals tend to go heavy on the syrupy sweetness, Caron has managed to keep the saccharine base to more tasteful levels, allowing the heart of the fragrance to blossom in all its splendor.

    It makes me smile and I'm not even sure why. There is this certain joie de vivre about this Caron that simply lifts my spirit. Not unlike a secret joke shared between friends with a wink or a knowing smile. The barely concealed tension between powdery and lush floral accords is the cherry on the cake or if one is so inclined to think, the glossy red smacker that leaves a gentleman bewitched, bothered...and bewildered.

    12nd September, 2011.

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    Iris 39 by Le Labo

    Ahh, the lure of the Iris... Especially when it beckons you with its seductive charms but stays just out of your reach. Perhaps that's what I love most about Le Labo's IRIS 39. That while it stays predominantly a green floral with warm ylang ylang and bitter violet leaf sitting on opposite ends, it only offers irises' earthy-carroty vibe to add some texture and act as a gossamer-thin bride's veil over what could be just another pretty green floral. No.19 or Diorissimo this is not, nor does it try to be for it simply doesn't need to; Iris 39 holds her own.

    The civet note is on the 'neutered' side of things but I thought it is funky enough to placate seasoned, vintage-worshipping noses without alienating others with more contemporary tastes. Projection is ample, lasting 3-4 hours on skin before drying down to a softly sweet yet musky scent. I felt it wears rather similar to Chanel 31 rue Cambon so I suppose technically there is nothing groundbreaking. But Iris 39 is undeniably well-executed and is arguably one of Le Labo's most elegant. I'd wear it myself, conventions be damned.

    11th September, 2011.

    rating

    Eau de Réglisse by Caron

    While the lemon verbena top note is as refreshing as verbena goes, there is a warm almost milky chocolatey undertone (I presume from the patchouli & vanilla in the base) that spells out 'gourmand' to me. That's not a good thing if you don't like gourmands and I generally don't. At times it even reminds me of Cartier Roadster sans the mint or L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme. And what about the licorice note? Nothing to write home about I'm afraid.

    EAU DE REGLISSE is hardly a bad fragrance but as far as Carons go, it is not too far removed from mediocrity. I'll pass.

    7th September, 2011.

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    Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron

    I have been wanting to smell FLEURS DE ROCAIILE since I watched Scent of A Woman in the 1992. Nearly 2 decades later, I have finally acquired a little of it in parfum extrait.

    Quite simply, this is an aldehydic floral done right. There is a slight animalic tone to the opening but nothing I would describe as 'poop'. Perhaps the vintage version is much more animalic? Anyway kudos to Ernest Daltroff for achieving such a fine balance. On some days, the rose or the carnation gets a little more airtime but often it graces the air like a refined floral bouquet. I find it timeless and quite elegant, just perfect for a lady.






    7th September, 2011.

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    Bellodgia by Caron

    Catching whiffs of Bellodgia this past couple of days made me realize just how sick I am of fragrance trends. That we are offered the equivalent of overpriced yet tasteless gruels every season. The version I had on might be non-vintage but it wore so wonderfully that I could only imagine just how good the vintage must be.

    I particularly enjoyed the teasing interplay between zingy vanilla and cloves, oscillating with the heady blend of muguet and carnation. Amazing! Enough to leave me speechless at its trailing wake. Such a shame that nobody in my nook of the world wears this Caron anymore.

    If there is one caveat it would have to be its room-filling potency. So all you heavy sprayers, watch out for the HazMat team.

    6th September, 2011.

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    Number 3 / Le 3me Homme / The Third Man by Caron

    WHOAH! Hahah. Hey, does anyone remember Tom Selleck in 1980s' Magnum P.I.? Think thick moustache, dimpled chin, broad hairy chest... Well, for some reason Third Man got me thinking about him.

    On my skin the carnation and patchouli work a real treat, with indoles adding a distinctly raunchy/funky element to this spicy fougere. But I wouldn't worry too much about this aspect as the sillage is really more about the woods and spice.

    Just when I thought this 'dude' hasn't aged all too gracefully into the new millenium, the drydown came to change my mind: warm, earthy with just a slight touch of spice and musk. Not bad, a little dated perhaps, but just not smooth enough for my taste.


    31st August, 2011.

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    Parfum Sacré by Caron

    On my skin PARFUM SACRE (edp) smells more of a lightly powdered floral than the rose and myrrh magic I was hoping for, with a musky-sweetness to the drydown that I don't particularly care for. For an eau de parfum it also feels woefully thin. I suspect the version I tried was a reformulation but until I source out a vintage, I'll have to nurse my disappointment.

    28th August, 2011.

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    Encens Epicé by Il Profumo

    On the surface ENCENS EPICE may come across as a very clean, 'laundered' scent. I must admit it is unfortunate that the melange of notes has given rise to a somewhat synthetic vibe. But do not be hasty in dismissing it.

    A closer inspection reveals ENCENS EPICE to have a lot more going on. Its use of coriander seeds is unexpected but it works beautifully to bridge the chasm between spicy and resinous. If you enjoy clean fragrances featuring dry resins and coniferous greens, this should be right up your alley. Definitely one of the more interesting incense fragrances I have tested to date. So to the naysayers I say: it's high time for a revisit.

    15th August, 2011.

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    Balsamo della Mecca/ Mecca Balsam by La Via del Profumo

    If I can sum this scent in one word it would be this: COMPLEX. It took me more than a few days of wearing before realizing I came nowhere close to unraveling its mysteries.

    On my skin BALSAMO DELLA MECCA plays a symphony comprising of three main accords: balsamic labdanum, dry frankincense and aromatic tobacco, interspersed with the nuanced sweetness of dried fruits. The rose note is subtle at best, wearing close to the skin. Overall I find the scent warm and inviting with a texture that is dry but not quite as dusty nor as Lutens-like syrupy as I had initially feared. I don't know if it's my skin but the tobacco is surprisingly tenacious.

    Despite its formidable charms, it failed to move me though I smiled a little when I caught a glimpse of a cleverly hidden tuberose. Perhaps I have simply grown accustomed to the composer's use of labdanum and tobacco as a central axis ( try Grezzo, Gringo, Don Corleone & Tabac). I also suspect some of the more glowing reviews could have been influenced at least in part by its rather exotic name and the association it carries with the annual Muslim pilgrimage to the holy city of Mecca. But it matters not. For what it's worth, I think this release is nothing short of 'stellar'.

    12nd August, 2011.

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    Gringo by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    A suave and rather arresting fragrance that showcases some dry, dusty frankincense with a touch of aromatic woods and spice. I'm almost positive there is some tobacco flower in there as well. I thought it smelled like Grezzo d'Eleganza without the sweetness.

    As the story goes, GRINGO was originally composed for an Italian stylist who turned it down as he thought it was too audacious to be appreciated by his customers. Seriously? What a moron! With all due respect, this stylist probably wears thin watery crap all day and hangs around AdG-drenched clients. That's just too bad for him for this 'charming rogue' is definitely one of my favorites from this house.

    7th August, 2011.

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    Ambra del Nepal by I Profumi di Firenze

    I don't enjoy smelling this up close - it's rich and it's sweet. But in sillage it's a different creature altogether - the creaminess much more subdued, allowing the cardamom to lift the composition and give it a much needed levity. There is also a dustiness to the amber and vanilla combo that falls just shy of 'powdery'. Unfortunately as a non-fan of gourmands, I can't quite shake off the gourmandish vibe well enough to give this a thumbs up. But I can appreciate why others might enjoy it.

    4th August, 2011.

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    Mona Lisa by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    Much like its more famous namesake, MONA LISA stumps me with her enigmatic charms. I find it tough to peg it down as it switches gears as rapidly as a Formula 1 racer negotiating a series of bends. Spicy indolic floral one moment, soft animalic musk a second later, even dry black tea leaf-like notes at some point. I don't get the fleshy rubbery texture I usually associate with tuberose either. Maybe it is there, maybe it is not. Other than the composer himself, who can really tell what else is in this sniff-worthy fragrance? But I can tell you the civet is rather playful. And this is probably why Mona Lisa smiles the way she does.

    2nd August, 2011.

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    Rose des Bois by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    Having sampled or worn numerous fragrances from this house, especially from their Scents of the Soul line, I have to admit I find Rose de Bois underwhelming. Boring even. The rose note goes MIA after 5 minutes. The wood section feels more like the basenotes - a subtle amalgamation of cinnamon, vetiver and sandalwood - soft, creamy with just a hint of spice for warmth. Projection is next to zero. But it is surprisingly tenacious, considering the claims to all-natural ingredients .

    But the bone of contention I have with this somewhat skeletal composition is its lack of a distinct voice. I've worn this a few times and on each of those occasions, I simply forgot which attar I had on. I don't know if Rose de Bois unravels much too quick on my skin, but it smells remarkably similar to the drydown in many of Salaam's compositions. The talented perfume composer may have produced some notable hits but I'm afraid this isn't one of them.

    1st August, 2011.

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    Ubar by Amouage

    I'm taking a detour from my sojourn into Italian fragrances by heading towards Oman with a few generous dabs of Amouage UBAR. Figuratively speaking of course, for in Ubar I found no reference to Middle Eastern styles of perfumery. Ubar is the 'lost' city after all.

    The construct leans towards the classical, borrowing more than a few leaves from perfumes of legend but the fragrance itself does not smell dated. Nor vintage. Better noses than mine have deconstructed the fragrance symphony so I shall not go there. In fact, I'm not sure if I could have done it had I tried. Ubar reached in deep into my core, moving me in ways very few fragrances could. Smelling it for the first time was, for lack of a better descriptive, heartbreaking. It made me realize why the disappearance or reformulation of vintage classics causes so much grief to perfume lovers.

    Ubar, as it is so aptly named, is a heartaching story of lost but never-to-be-forgotten splendor. If anyone is after an Amouage masterpiece, this is it.

    1st August, 2011.

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