Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by MonkeyManMatt

Showing all 390 reviews

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Excellent release from L'Artisan. After a few so and so fragrances, especially the austere and boring Timbuktu, this house is right back on track with Fou d'absinthe and Dzongkha.

By no means an instant crowdpleaser, Dzongkha is an extremely dry and somewhat demanding scent. Lovely pale iris opens the blend that progresses into deep spices, tea and muted smoke. All notes with significant dryness as their common denominator. The drydown, that lingers forever, is a woodsy leather with subtle incense - truly exotic. Like many reviewers attest, it is a very evocative blend - romantic as in breathtaking nature and stunning vistas. This may sound a bit cliche - but There is defintely a "zen" to this fragrance. A mellow calm and without even the slightest hint of superficiality.

Give Dzongkha a serious try/wear, and don´t let a bad or perplexing first impression scare you of. For those willing to give this eau de toilette some time, chances are it´ll be a very rewarding experience. Simply superb.
20 January 2008

Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

The keyword for Chypre Rouge is patience.

I´m quite certain that most of the negative reviews stem from it´s opening and topnotes, which are indeed pretty bizarre. Celery and curry immediately come to mind with the initial blast. Dior´s Eau Noire is in the same category - strangely herbal and with clear kitchen spice, perhaps some thyme as well?

Anyhow, after half an hour or so what remains is a pleasant amber with a piney touch that ´s real nice and wearable.
I also pick up something reminiscent of vinyl (maybe the beeswax?)that gives CR an abstract edge - very Comme des Garcons-ish.

But yeah, to reach that phase you´ll have to endure a good deal of quirky strangeness - for me the wait is worth it, but I have full understanding for those who don´t agree.
26 December 2007

Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Insanely sweet but equally excentric and cool! Absolutely not something I´d wear myself. But it´s very hard not to appreciate the fun and joy that is so evident to have been part in the making of Un Bois Vanille.

I get a carefree "resort" vibe from it if that makes any sense, probably due to the coconut. Something to pull out before going to a leisure dinnerparty with your equally well off friends at Ralph Laurens villa in Jamaica. Hedonistic, cocky and FUN!

The vanilla is special on it´s own, kind of "toasted" and with some bitterness like the real pods. But together with the licorice, sandalwood and sugar it transcends classic vanilla interpretations into something completely different - the quintessence of opulence.

If you´re an obsessive vanilla fan and can handle this extreme gourmand on your skin - then you might find a party friend for life.
26 December 2007

Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Daim Blond does come across as very feminine smelling on a strip or from the bottle, but in fact it works very well on my skin.

This is an amazing fragrance but waaay too light! Not much to add about the smell itself that hasn´t already been covered by earlier reviewers - other than that it is a very evocative scent - dreamlike and mesmerizing. When experiencing it I imagine a large piece of the finest suede delicatly sprinkled with jasmine flowers and ripe, fuzzy apricots. The end result is just fantastic, tender and completely unlike perfume as we are used to it. It is the olfactory representation of an idealized
scent of human skin - musky but clean and inviting. One of many Lutens fragrances that are the testament of the resident genius in this house.
26 December 2007

Gris Clair by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Extremely different from most Lutens scents, Gris Clair is somewhat brutal, quite one- dimensional and very masculine. It definitely breaks the mold regarding what we´ve come to expect from this house. Neither ambigous or an oriental-candied fruit-honeyed-sweetness-meltdown, Gris Clair is a modern, sharp and quite dark take on lavender.

The lavender has a clear metallic edge to it that is very special - reminds me a bit of the small spice sachets that grandma had lying around drawers with linen.

But it´s also easy to argue that Gris Clair in fact is a stronge move toward the mainstream. It´s miles less original than most Lutens fragrances, and elements of it are extremely reminiscent of widely available stuff like Lanvin L´Homme or Rocabar from Hermès. Perhaps this is the route many niche houses will be taking? At least Fredric Malle´s Outrageous and many of the latest L'Artisans seem to indicate such a development.

To conclude, Gris Clair is a cool (literallly)and macho spiced juice with some serious bite. Mellow and subtle it is not, but an accesible lavender that'll work great in a professional business enviroment assuming it is applied with moderation. A nice fragrance on it´s own but only okay granted it´s maker and niche status.
26 December 2007

Santal Blanc by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I also belong to the scarce group of fans of this Lutens. Definitely not one of this house´s biggest crowdpleasers. But Santal Blanc is such a pleasant wear!

It sort of shares some qualities with L'Artisans Bois farine, both have a dry, almost flourlike accord. The Lutens however is seriously complimented by cinnamon, pepper and other balsamic ingredients. The sandalwood isn´t a standard one (obviously) but instead a lighter, mellow one. Drier than the creamy variations found in for instance Trumper´s. But after all this is a Lutens fragrance, and there´s plenty of sweetness in there balancing the dry, blonde sandalwood. There´s no information about cumin being part of the pyramid but to my nose there´s a clear cumin note as well, This might however be the fenugreek that other reviewers have mentioned. I suspect that it is this spicy edge that makes Santal Blanc an aquired taste. To me, as a whole, it is an amazing fragrance with so much going for it. Sillage might not be awesome, but longevity is - won´t leave until you shower. Overall a cool and original winner from Serge!
26 December 2007

Fahrenheit 32 by Christian Dior

The comparison to Fleur de Male must be made - both are heavy on vanilla and neroli in combination. But where the Gaultier is a balanced, original and cool release - Fahrenheit 32 just seems redundant and frankly, a bit cheap. On my skin I just can´t get by the feeling of a highly artificial product. Something created in a lab between washing powders and stain removing liquids. As for instance Comme Des Garcons has proved time and again, artificiality doesn´t need to be bad per se. But in Fahrenheit 32 there isn´t enough originality or other redeeming stuff going on to justify it. The vanilla and orange blossom smell awfully synthetic and the whole brew has a strength (nuclear!) and offensiveness that´s just a bit too much too handle.

It also shares that sharp "floral aggression" of Geir Ness and Tommy T, giving it a ridiculously clean feeling. The irony is, it´s so strong it comes across more like some kind of industrial strength cleaner for warehouses or something...

Nevertheless it is quite different from most of the stuff coming out today which in itself is worth some praise. But at the end of the day a definite thumbs down. Hardly worthy of sharing shelves with Eau Sauvage or even the original Fahrenheit for that matter.
26 December 2007

Lacoste Elegance by Lacoste

Along with Baldessarini Ambré Lacoste Elegance is one of many signs that the mainstream fragrance licence holders like Procter & Gamble are finally moving in the right direction, albeit terribly slowly.

Elegance is an almost embarrasingly simple amber scent with a semi-gourmand base. Not very good but certainly no disaster like Essential etc.

If P&G keeps up this development for another 2-3 scents we´ll end up with something on par with Lacoste Booster.
Let´s hope they do.
01 December 2007

Roberto Cavalli Black by Roberto Cavalli

After the first three catastrophic releases for men, Cavalli´s Black is big step forward. By no means a particularly orginial fragrance, but instead a very plesant one. Basically a subtle and rustic amber with strong notes of dry lavender and a noticeable white pepper. Very italian in it´s overall feel.

Initially the longevity may seem limited, but Black sticks around for quite a while but without major sillage. The late drydown is in fact it´s most rewarding stage, This is where the tonka bean in the base steps up and sweetens the deal significantly.

To those that might feel Caron´s Pour un Homme is a tad old fashioned and stuffy Roberto Cavalli Black is a nice alternative. Of course with such a trade what you´ll gain in wearability you´ll lose in complexity and quality.
01 December 2007

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Ouarzazate by Comme des Garçons

If Jaisalmer is the most challenging and Avignon the most eccentric in the Incense series, Quarzazate is their playful cousin. Carefree, light and very easy to wear. There´s a strong bergamot note in the opening that stays with the fragrance during it´s evolution. This adds an orange like dimension to it and also makes it smell a bit like a hot cup of tea. Additionally the incense is much more muted here than in the others. I partly agree on the comparison to Gucci pour homme. They definitely share a dry cedar base, but there is very little pine or smoke in this one. More of a fizzy, slightly herbal and optimistic addition to this excellent range of CdG´s. Not great sillage but stays on the skin for a long time.
18 May 2007

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Jaisalmer by Comme des Garçons

For me, Jaisalmer is easily the most challenging fragrance in this series. I suspect there´s a good amount of raw vetiver in there. A note that with it´s earthy and soily qualities certainly is not a favourite of mine. I do however like this fragrance anyway. Like the others have pointed out, it is intensely smokey and spicy. I too get images of campfires and charred pieces of wood when wearing it, and I like it! Jaisalmer is intensely dry, a bit dirty and very masculine, would not want to smell this on my girlfriend. Like many CdG´s it is an aquired taste, so don´t buy blind. It´s siblings, Quarzazate and Avignon are mucher safer bets if you´re into incense and want a cool avantgarde approach to it. Jaisalmer´s staying power outlasts both of those easily though.
18 May 2007

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Comme des Garçons

I Recently purchased Avignon together with Jaisalmer and Quarzazate from this fine series. It´s impossible not to admire CdG for their great integrity and artistic approach to making fragrances. This was especially true before the sweet-series and the recent guerillas, which are fine as well, but a bit too mainstream. No other house (fairly large that is) could or would put out a series like this. There´s such a leisure cool and above all strong sense of luxury to the concept of exploring variations of a theme such as incense in 5 different premium fragrances. No Demeter fragrance library here, these are all standalone scents with great character. The different nuances balancing the incense range from sweet to woody, smokey and smoulderingly spicy.

Avignon is definitely the most straightforward "churchey" one of the lot. The comparison to Etro´s Messe de Minuit must be made. They are certainly similar, but I would argue that Avignon is far superior and above all much more wearable. MdM stays with the gothic theme during it´s entire progression, never leaving that catholic mass groove. Whereas Avignon is significantly softened by the vanilla and chamomille that appear quickly alongside the frankincense and myrrh. The subtle vanilla also prevents it from becoming to cold and musty. Avignon could be described as a mix of MdM and Gucci Rush, with the originality of the first and the pleasant powdery wearability of the latter.

18 May 2007

Armani Attitude by Giorgio Armani

! Disclaimer! - No offense to any fans of this brand: But if the name Armani still conjures up luxury, creativity and timeless elegance in your head, then chances are, unfortunately, that you are in fact living in 1989. Can’t really think of a bigger sell-out designer brand, especially in the fragrance and cosmetics section the last decade.

There’s simply no limit to the kinds of crap that they will put in their gift boxes to sell the below average juices. So far I’ve seen t-shirts (but always with the word parfum added - God forbid anyone actually would get a 100% "real" t-shirt), electronic alarm clocks, cheap plastic cuff links, and the last one - silicone i-Pod covers. Ok, maybe someone actually wants all that stuff, but it’s becoming painfully obvious that the fragrances just aren’t cutting it by themselves anymore. It has to be said that this mainly goes for the Emporio Armani diffusion label, but still...

On a positive note Attitude sports a very good looking black flacon. Unfortunately the hinge mechanism that holds the cap is worthless, as countless people have already testified on the boards. But before this review gets too shallow, let’s focus on the juice. It’s a Diet B*Men. An anorexic cousin if you will, of Mugler´s pleasant woody/licorice- themed male fragrance.
Ironically, that far superior brew is getting discontinued - sigh... Did I mention that Attitude sports an impressive longevity as well, 35 minutes approximately…

The worst part of all of this is, that with the Privé line (expensive and very hard to get) it’s obvious that the house of Armani is indeed still very capable of producing high quality, rich and original fragrances. This kind of dualistic cynicism, where the mainstream is served hastily put together junk sold mainly through the name is just saddening. I mean, who will seriously remember City Glam in 10 years? Do try the Privé line though if you have the opportunity, especially Privé Bois d'Encens is terrific.

I am very aware of the tremendous impact and importance that Giorgio Armani had upon the world of fashion during the 80´s. But as the Dylan song goes - The Times They Are A-Changin'. As far as I’m concerned, at least in the world of fragrances this house is over.
10 May 2007

Nicole Farhi Homme by Nicole Farhi

Recently sampled this very hard to find fragrance. I do understand the Safari comparison (obviously a eucalyptus connection), but there is another juice out there even more similar to Nicole Farhi Homme - Issey Miyake L'Eau Bleue Pour Homme. They share the same sharp, astringent opening and that slightly sour, herbal, woody thing going on. I guess that doesn´t sound too good, but it actually works great, creating a complex impression, almost like a cold forest. The tea tree is easy to detect like the others pointed out but I think the fragrance would have benefited from a bit of softening of that particular note. Personally I associate that specific smell with medicinal anti-acne products.

It has to be said though, Nicole Farhi is a very interesting and abstract fragrance. Was greatly surprised by it´s avant-garde presence - cool!
09 May 2007

1881 Black by Cerruti

Upon application Cerruti Black immediately reminded me of the original Burberry (the one with the silver cap, formerly known as London). And they certainly share a sticky, synthetic, sweet vibe and an intense mossy feel. I kind of enjoy it in the Burberry but it gets out of hand in this one. Especially that artificial marzipan note goes haywire on me. I did however notice that it works extremely well on some guys, making it one of those "chameleon" colognes that are impossible to judge without trying it on your on skin. On my friend it just smelled warm, clean and projected very strongly. In other words worth a try - results may vary...
09 May 2007

CK In 2U Him by Calvin Klein

Kudos to the CK-people for extraordinary packaging on this one. The In 2U bottle surely is an eye-catcher and very good looking in it´s modern coolness. Sadly the juice is below average as one has come to expect from this house nowadays. Boring, artificial semi-oriental that doesn´t know where to go. Kind of powdery, kind of cocoa-ish, not a good composition. And a fleeting one on top of that. Pass.
09 May 2007

Polo Black by Ralph Lauren

Just like Joel_Cairo I´m revising my initial dismissal of Polo Black. By no means is this a very original or daring frgrance. But it´s biggest problem is indeed the marketing concept. The ads and name creates an expectation of something smoulderingly spicy and oriental. Which it clearly isn´t. It is, however, a competent day-time/office fragrance with with just slightly more character than other recent launches. Mango, cardamom and subtle spices create an overall pleasant experience. I get way better longevity from it than other seem to, 5-6 hours minimum. The jet black bottle looks great but should have been coloured light green or brown instead, better representing it´s content.
09 May 2007

Hypnôse Homme by Lancôme

Not bad at all. Familiar territory for most of us as this is mainly based on lavender and vanilla. The fragrance opens with a pungent blast of cardamom. Then the lavender does come on very sharp and strong, but eventually mellows out during the long amber/vanilla drydown. Hypnôse Homme is actually a bit reminiscent of Miracle for men as well, which is kind of cool out of a house continuity perspective. If in the mood for a spicy, fresh and potent oriental, then give this one a go. Clive Owen is a cool guy by the way (he´s the "face" for Hypnôse).
09 May 2007

Versace l'Homme by Versace

Foetidus´s review is very accurate. Versace´s l'Homme really epitomizes how brilliant mainstream designer fragrances once were. This is so well blended that it is hard to pinpoint the individual notes.

It does start with some pleasant citrus and eventually settles down to a semi-sweet, mossy, herbal and highly masculine base. Lasts forever and the progression is flawless, with each hour a new great nuance of the scent is revealed.

L'Homme slightly reminds me of Dunhill Edition, but less sweet and superior overall.

Balanced, full of character, subtle yet decisive - this IS bottled elegance. Do get it quick before it dissapears completely. 10 out of 10.
04 May 2007

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

Terre d'Hermès certainly is appreciated by many basenoters and there has been plenty of discussion regarding it on the boards. Personally I find it hard to form a distinct opinion. It´s just so and so. Not bad at all, but definitely not groundbreaking or very desirable either.

The broad shouldered and proud looking flacon however is excellent, as always with this house.

I strongly feel that this theme was done better with Cartier´s Declaration, that also used a tad of cumin (just like the first Hermès) for an added dangerousness. If I´m not misstaken Ellena was the creator of that one too, which would certainly explain the similarities.

TdH is mainly a grapefruit/vetiver combo to my nose. The slightly acidic citrus works well with the earthy grass and that mineral note that sounded like fancy copywriting at first is definitely lurking in there. It creates a salty soiliness making the scent stand out from many other fresh juices of today.

Longevity is decent compared to general stuff, but superb compared to several others from this particular house.

Certainly worth a try. I can see how this can become a easily worn everyday staple scent for some. I´ll stick to the original Bulgari pour homme for that purpose.
04 May 2007

Aoud Lime by Montale

As the earlier reviews indicate, Aoud Lime hardly leaves anyone neutral. This is definitely a strong and somewhat agressive fragrance with a sharp personality. Can´t really think of anything even remotely resembling it.

My experience with oud is also very limited, but I certainly enjoy it in YSL´s M7. And after sampling a few of the Montales M7 seems to be true to the naure of this pungent wood.

Aoud Lime becomes something completely different though. The sharp lime combined with the smoky and semi-sweet woods creates a dry, herbaceous and medicinal aura. The dryness is further accentuated by the strong iris and organic sandalwood. The sillage is a killer - will take over a small room in no time, so be gentle on the trigger. Overall a very cool and unusual fragrance. Can imagine it working extremely well on the right femme fatale as well.
04 May 2007

Cool Water by Davidoff

2007 05 04 Davidoff Cool Water (long)

Recently I´ve become increasingly relativistic in judging and reevaluating older fragrances. Like many members on the board I very strongly dislike where the mainstream fragrance industry is heading and has developed the last couple of years. Way too much effort is put into packaging, limited editions, summer versions, ridiculous pyramid copywriting and such. Genuine creativity and originality has dissappeared in favour of hype and politically correct and synthetic scents that aim to please as many consumers as possible.

Further there is a growing trend of "dual" markets for the big brands. Dior have their 3 upscale colognes (and to a certain extent Homme), Guerlain their L'Art et la Matiere series, Chanel their Rue Cambon, Hermès their Hermenessences - the list goes on. Practically this means we now have to pay about 3 times more for the same quality that was standard issue during the 80`s while the conglomerates squeeze every penny
out of each aquired franchise with their "special editions" and summer versions, products that seldomly even make it to next year. It´s simple mathematics - increased frequency to spark short term purchase and boosting the sale figures for the share holders. Unfortunately all kinds of new sub-par "niche" houses have popped up as well recently capitalizing on peoples quest for the genuine. Fancy packaging and claims (hardly controllable) of all natural ingredients hardly justifies the prices asked by for instance Profumum. IMHO you earn your respect, by decades of quality output. Sadly many lose it much faster in the race for quick bucks today.

So how does this rant relate to my reveevaluation and growing fondness for Cool Water? A few years ago I dissmissed this fragrance in this very same review section. But recently I started sampling it again and it grew on me with each try. I started to think of it with a strong sense of nostalgia and even appreciated it´s simple old school bottle. The Green Irish Tweed reference is unavoidable, especially since that Creed (in this rare case)is the original. And sure, GIT has more bite and complexity, but CW is close, much closer than the price tag would indicate.

Cool Water is a simple fresh fougere that works perfectly on a mild spring day. Less marine than the concept indicates, I´d say its a herbal, slightly peppery scent with a strong base of oakmoss, musk and pleasant cedar. The overall impression is, pardon the cliche, a modern masculine classic. I eventually bought a bottle and it has served me very well in the office the last couple of weeks.

Cool Water, together with Acqua di Gió and Eternity may very well be the initiators of todays downward spiral of forced freshness.
But compared to all the mediocre new stuff released, especially by Davidoff themselves, Cool Water will always remain a nice alternative. Good Stuff.
04 May 2007

Fleur du Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

Excellent modern oriental take on orange blossom.
Classic Gaultier level of exuberance and lavishness. Therefore perhaps not best suited for high level board meetings or office use. Instead, wear this to a fun summernight out with good friends.

Although it certainly shares some basenotes with the original, FdM had plenty of merit of it´s own. It´s warm and spicy but also has a certain "cool" that makes it perfectly wearable in hot weather. Less projection than Le Male, but equal stellar longevity, stays on your skin until you wash it off.

A modern, eccentric, self confident neroli for urban hipsters - good stuff.
17 April 2007

L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Clean, subtle and boring(!) launch from the mainstream house that I respect the most. With fragrances like M7, Rive Gauce and Opium on their resume L`Homme inevitably seems ike a major sellout and blatant attempt to cash in on the conformistic scent market of today. Coming from some other house L´Homme could easily be described as a nice, clean reinterpretation of Dolce & Gabbana PH. But in the light of YSL´s rich history and heritage this new release just serves as a sad reminder of a business in deep crisis. Let´s really hope they pull themselves together...
08 April 2007

Baldessarini Ambré by Baldessarini

Baldessarini Ambré is basically Boss Bottled with a dash of amber and in a better looking bottle. Nothing new here in other words and hardly a competitor with excellent niche ambers such as L'artisans or Lutens. Just like Boss Bottled it is a great choice for office wear and other everyday situations though. The subtle apple and vanilla combo is simply very hard to dislike.
08 April 2007

Baldessarini by Baldessarini

The original Baldessarini is excellent albeit very fleeting. A mature blend of tobacco and sugared bitter orange peels. The citrus has a very pronounced bitterness that works great with the subtle mint notes and prevents the sweet base from becoming too much. A very elegant formal fragrance that you can´t really go wrong with. But do try to score the concentrated version since the ordinary escapes your skin all too soon.
08 April 2007

Trussardi Inside Man by Trussardi

With Inside Trussardi continue their tradition of excellent packaging and bottle design. Sadly the quality of the juice keeps deteriorating with each release. Inside is basically a Moschino Uomo? ripoff . A bit more synthetic and with much crappier longevity though. The pyramid seems completely wrong compared to the actual scent. Like the Moschino it´s more about cedar, musk and with some toned down fresh lavender. Not a bad scent altogether, but get Uomo? instead, a better , stronger and more balanced execution on the theme.
08 April 2007

Burberry London for Men by Burberry

I was pretty excited to try this since Burberry has released some very decent scents in the past. I quickly decided that London will not join my list of those. Fresh and aquatic it ain´t, which in itself deserves some kudos in this day and age. But unfortunately there is something off putting in the heartnotes, something sour and slightly vegetal, almost like rotten leaves. Perhaps these are the alleged tobacco leaves mingling with the port wine? Also the staying power and sillage is minimal, so even if you do dig the scent this is a negative factor. The flacon is pretty cool though, the use of the plaid textile is nicely done and reminiscent of Hermès´s Rocabar.
08 April 2007

Raw Vanilla by Coty

The Biagiotti Roma reference is spot on. I´d also add Paloma Picasso´s Minotaur as it shares the sweet, sticky vanilla base. Of the 3 Raw Vanilla is unfortunately the worst. Too linear and boring and ultimately cloying as well with it´s thick, sugary take on vanilla. Might attract the Pi-crowd though.
08 April 2007

Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi by Acqua di Parma

There comes a time in the life of every fragrance aficionado when you choose your prefered fig, just like your sandalwood, musk, patchouli or vetiver of choice. In fact I´d go as far as claiming that fig, or more correctly fig leaf, is the one note that has become a benchmark for numerous houses the last decade. Shortly, many houses feel they have to represent this increasingly popular ingredient in their ranges. And subsequently we have a lot to choose from: Diptyque´s Philosykos, L'Artisans Premier Figuier, Hermès´s mediterranean garden, Marc Jacobs for men, Davidoff's GoodLife, Salvatore Ferragamo's pour homme, Christian Dior's Dune for men - the list goes on. Therefore it´s fairly easy to compare within this category and find the individual merits of each fragrance. The Acqua di Parma people (like most of the time) certainly suceeded with their take. Immediately upon application you´ll sense that Fico di Amalfi is a tad more synthetic compared to Diptyque's and L'Artisan's juices, but definitely less artificial smelling then Hermès´s and Marc Jacobs dito. Overall this slightly synthetic touch doesn´t hurt the fragrance or it´s general feel. There is a bit of that same dryness as with most fig-leaf based scents, but FdA also adds a luscious sweetness of crushed fig pulp to the mix along with a sparkling touch of jasmin. Longevity is excellent although the fragrances is very linear, but I think this is the point with the entire Blu Mediterraneo series, simple, few-note, feel good fragrances at an affordable price. With FdA they continue the good vibe that started with their excellent roasted almond gourmand and the uplifting piney freshness of their Tuscan Cypress. To sum up the charateristics of Fico di Amalfi in comparison to it´s peers and competitors I´d say it´s less dry, mossy and green than Philosykos, lacking the milky almond note from Premier Figuier, completely absent of the acidity in Un Jardin en Mediterranée, avoiding the coconut-sun-tan-lotion bonanza of Marc Jacobs - but instead sporting a fleshy-fruit sweetness and a plesant cedar base balancing the composition very well. Also the staying power is probably the best within this genre. A big thumbs up, and just like Guerlains aqua Allegoria line, AdP have found a consequent and interesting aesthetic in this range - Blu Mediterraneo, that will hopefully and probably release more care-free, sunny and high quality fragrances in the future.
31 January 2007

Angel Schlesser Homme by Angel Schlesser

A somewhat overlooked spanish eau de toilette. Angel Schlesser is very fresh & clean but with quite some personality compared to other fragrances in the AdG genre. Sligthly piney, soapy clean and with a sweet rice accord on a warm cedar base. Definitely worth checking out if you're on the hunt for something subtle and inoffensive with decent staying power.
23 May 2006

Le Chèvrefeuille by Annick Goutal

By no means only suitable for the ladies, this very traditional honeysuckle fragrance is definitely unisex. Extremely simple "one-noter" that still manages to shine thanks to the super quality and natural feel of it. Refreshing and dry, think Fahrenheit but without the petrol-accord + more floral overall character. A bit pricey perhaps for what it is, but a very neat juice for carefree summer wear.
10 May 2006

Cuba Gold by Cuba Paris

Very nice "interpretation" of Gaultier's Le Male.
It's funny how different companies have perfected upon that formula along the years. Body Shop's Javari for instance puts a strong black pepper spin on it, while this one basically has toned down the original recipe a bit making it more elegant and less in your face. Cuba Gold is by the way dirt-cheap, around 8$, making it essential for almost everyone. If you appreciate the JPG but find it a bit too strong and vulgar - then this one is for you. Don't hesitate, for that price even a blind buy is safe.
28 April 2006

Façonnable Stripe by Façonnable

Another french house's attempt to ride the fresh, clean and unobtrusive bandwagon. It has to be said they do suceed a little better than many others. But at the end of the day this is hardly worth any attention. My "neutral-hand" mostly comes from a byass because of their ultra elegant flacons and classy sport shirts...
28 April 2006

Vent Vert (new) by Pierre Balmain

Lovely powdery chypre in a beautiful flacon and packaging. Haven't had the chance to try the original so I can't tell how big the difference is in the new edition. The old one however is considered one of the great feminine classics of the past century.
28 April 2006

Monsieur Balmain (new) by Pierre Balmain

I've always wanted to "freeze" the lemon/citrus topnotes of many of my favourite fragrances. I felt Dior's Eau Sauvage, Hermès Orange Verte, Eau de Rochas pour homme and particularly the original Lacoste would benefit from prolonged citrus presence. Then I tried Monsieur Balmain... In this one the squeezed lemon note actually stays with you for hours - and guess what? It actually ruins the whole thing. My personal conclusion is that the best classic citruses are the ones with a fresh zesty opening but with an equally pleasant drydown. This progression often lands in some kind of herbal or woody base, unfortunately the Balmain stays mainly lemon and eventually a faint & not too clean musk. So it's linear and pretty boring, however - if the thought of a long-present lemon note excites you the way it did me before, then by all means give this oldie a shot. I would try Penhaligon's excellent Blenheim Boquet to though, also with longlasting citrus but paired here with a refined and elgant smokey pine making it's structure infinitely more interesting.
28 April 2006

Nightflight by Joop!

Decadent and original. A pleasure to wear this fresh but powerful blend that is full with the confidence of the early nineties. See it as a predecessor to Chanel's Allure pour homme - both with strong tonka-bases, but with plenty merit of it's own. Since it's from Joop! you KNOW it lasts and lasts and lasts... Great bottle that really corresponds with the feeling of the juice. Get nightflight istead of the original, same innovative, extroverted and excentric vibe, but without the cloying bits.
28 April 2006

Acqua di Parma Profumo by Acqua di Parma

A good example of the fact that stronger & more often just wrecks a good thing. Instead of the zesty, fresh & beautiful combo of citrus, rose and light herbs in the EDC and mint in the Assoluta-rendition the perfume version OD's on everything. The result is an overly dry, stuffy and unrefined chypre. Strong? - Sure. Elegant, pleasant & worthwhile - Not even close. Ironically I even find the bottle inferior to the ones of the lighter formulations.
27 April 2006

Blu Mediterraneo Sicilian Almond / Mandorlo di Sicilia by Acqua di Parma

Very fine gourmandicious take on almonds. Sweet, strong and definitely different from for instance Etro's Heliotrope and L'Artisan Parfumeur's Bois Farine. Good staying power and beautiful presentation. Another hit in this understated & high quality series from AdP.
27 April 2006

Iris Nobile by Acqua di Parma

Tried this recently and expected something along the lines of or at least slightly similar to Dior Homme because of the Iris in both. No such shared features though as Iris Nobile smells much more of star anise than anything else. A pleasant wear no doubt, but still dissapointing in the context of brand and price.
27 April 2006

L'Eau Bleue D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake

This one truly is as weird as the previous reviews indicate. It's very hard to describe L'Eau Bleue but there's definitely a vegetable thing going on, the opening is sligthly reminiscent of the cilantro/coriander in the top notes of Rochas Aquaman, but the overall impression is more complex and better. I think the blue concept of this fragrance is a little deceptive, a medium green bottle would better represent the contents. Top sillage and longevity as always with Issey but do sample this oddling before buying cause it is very original and an aquired taste.
21 April 2006

Castile by Penhaligon's

A very straightforward neroli/rose combo that is perfectly unisex IMO. A bit linear and one-dimensional but nevertheless great for refreshing summer usage. Great flacon like always from this house.
21 April 2006

Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's

I never thought of rose as a particularly feminine smell. If you smell the actual flower in a dewy garden it smells very genderless to my nose, just a nice, mild and fresh aroma. I think it's the extremely synthetic rose in the tacky mass market fragrances of the last decade that has tarnished the reputation (and woman-ized it)of this beatiful floral component. The rose found in Geo F Trumpers ancient Rose Shaving Cream for instance smells very gentle and natural, not girlie in any way. The same can be said for Comme de Garcons Red Series Rose. So with this in mind I was never afraid or worried about the strong rose element when I finally got around to sample Hammam Boquet. After all this one was released over a century ago. Unfortunately the overall impression of the fragrance left me somewhat underwhelmed, I guess I expected a little more - afterall Penhaligon's Blenheim Boquet is one of my favourites and a monumental statement of everything brittish. Since, I've warmed up to it slightly but there is a dryness in HB which just doesn't sit well on my skin. The quality is stellar though, literally smells expensive (and it is!) and for the right person I think this could give the perfect ambiance of understated elegance. Good stuff, just not for me.
21 April 2006

LP No.9 for Men by Penhaligon's

Very surprised that no one has mentioned the utter similarity between LP No.9 and Yves Saint Laurent's Opium Pour Homme... This is clearly a blatant rip off, neither improving or belittleing the french original. Unfortunately many of Penhaligon's recent launches follow the "Creed-trend" of plagiarism. Too bad since the mighty boquets Blenheim and Hammam & the brilliant English Fern surely stand on their own with plenty of history as well.
Go for Opium PH instead, which ironically is cheaper as well.
21 April 2006

English Fern by Penhaligon's

Totally outstanding fougere. In my honest opinion this juice represents the essence of this category of fragrances. And what a fantastic job at that! Manly, soapy, mossy but fresh and with just a tad of sweetness - as classic as they come. Basically gives you the most pleasant, clean barbershop vibe imagineable - like an upscale luxurious shaving cream. Incredible longevity as well, keeps you confident all day. Only downside I guess is it's extreme simplicity which probably could prevent many from making English Fern their signature scent. It would perhaps get a little boring using it every day. But despite it's somewhat austere and linear character I sincerely think this should be everyones first choice in the search for the ultimate basic fougere. Truly Excellent.
21 April 2006

David Beckham Instinct by Beckham

Indeed similar to the horrible Adventure from Gant, but also shares the opening with D&G's Masculine, mainly due to the strong bergamot. And while the topnotes are somewhat pleasant, Instinct quickly dries down to the synthetic mess one would expect. This soccer players persona is just as tacky as the overall impression of his standard issue vulgar cologne.
19 April 2006

Cool Water Game by Davidoff

The only reason I even chose to comment upon this atrocity is the chance that it might prevent someone from buying it. Another great example of the short-term thinking that is so typical of many mainstream houses today, this will probably not make it through even to next year. Total disaster - STAY AWAY.
19 April 2006

YSL pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Definitely not a bad fragrance, but in this category there is thousands of better options. If you want a super-classic citrus on a solid, masculine herbal base, go for Eau Sauvage or Chanel PM Concentree instead, both more complex and interesting. The YSL sports better staying power than the Dior though.

The brilliant ad with a naked androgynous Yves that stirred up quite some controversy in the 70's doesn't represent the fragrance well - this is a classic masculine juice on the border of stuffiness. Could definitely appeal to lovers of extreme simplicty.
18 April 2006

Concentrée D'Orange Verte by Hermès

A bit more blunt than the original. The differences are actually very similar to the ones between the first Acqua di Parma and Colonia Assoluta. This means more green in the stronger versions, mainly added mint. Stronger for sure, but since this by no means means GREAT staying power, I'd still choose the classic one, just more zest and playfulness in that one. If you can only afford one of the two and staying power is your main criteria - Concentree D'Orange Verte is still better than the majority of fresh colognes out there. Same bottle as before but in frosted glass instead.
10 April 2006

Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès

Often stated as the best example of extremely poor longevity, you simply cannot hate this zesty tonic. As long as you treat it as a cologne and have the opportunity to reapply lots of times during the day, you will be rewarded with the sparkling freshness of squeezed lemon and mandarin - truly uplifting. Eau d'Orange Verte is better blended than most Eau's, and has a recognizeable edge to it. The concentrated version lasts a little longer, mostly because of added mint, but the gain in staying power comes with the loss of the sparkling, refreshing quality of the original. Both are essential for summer though. Perfect for nice play in Nice a sizzling july day ;) .
10 April 2006

Équipage by Hermès

After a great bergamot burst in the beginning Équipage quickly morphs into a mossy, piney carnation based classically smelling blend. It actually is pretty close to Tabac, but more uncompromising and rugged. It's not a personal favorite, I don't really like this category (with a few exceptions - Penhaligon's English Fern for instance) but there is a nice soapy side to it + the sheer masculinity of fragrances released in the 70's is always appealing. Classy, but not on par with say Eau Sauvage or Chanel pour monsieur.
10 April 2006

Dia for Men by Amouage

Many people claim to experience a celery-note in Caron's Yatagan, well Dia has a very clear one in the opening. A little weird & the cardamom further accentuates the foodlike first impression. This quickly fades though, leaving way for a soft, woody aura with a strong incense character. The drydown has a pleasant masculine sweetness to it but I think the price is hardly worth what you get. A decent juice at a perverse cost.
10 April 2006

Amouage Gold Men by Amouage

Wow, where to begin. Received a sample of this recently and had high hopes, after all this is supposed to be "The most valuable fragrance in the world"... Well, what can I say, let's put it like this - often less is more, something the good people in Dubai obviously do not grasp. This is a terribly messy, super powdery, aldehydic disaster. We often discuss cultural differences in olfactory perception on the boards, and this one may be the best example of such a clash. The floral and distinct middle-eastern vibe found in Gold just smells extremely feminine to my nose. It's actually very reminiscent of Chanel #5 with a pungent aldehydic, leather-like ooze sprinkled with like, well, most known flowers to man. Grandmother was the very first impression when smelling it. And although the vanilla in the base mellows it out somewhat, the overall feeling here
is that of a mature women's perfume. Not what I look for & there's is just so much going on here -zero balance between the ingredients. It feels like the Amouage people just blended all kinds of exclusive raw materials together without any concept or feeling. Simply appauling. Check out the better (but still dissapointing) Dia if you must have something from this house. Haven't tried all of their stuff yet but this supposed "flagship"-juice indicates yet another manufacturer relying on gimmick and fancy bottles to sell their sub-par products. Powderbox-boquet-overload-meltdown - YUCK.
10 April 2006

Oscar by Oscar de la Renta

Heady, aldehydic, highly powdery juice that probably is this house's attempt to create their own Chanel #5. A big failure unfortunately. Could be worthwhile if you're into L'Air du temps though, since I HATE that one Oscar gets a big thumbs down from me.
10 April 2006

Oscar for Men by Oscar de la Renta

A typical case of "the bottle says it all". If you find this bottle exciting and original looking then perhaps this juice is for you. For the rest of us standard issue citrus/wood blends don't quite measure up considering all other cool things out there. Boring AdG/Eternity hybrid with a mossy base, mediocre longevity in addition pass on this one fellas.
10 April 2006

Oscar de la Renta pour Lui by Oscar de la Renta

An eighties floral classic for men. In the same category as Van Cleef & Arpels and Floris Elite. This one is vastly superior though, especially compared to the latter. It never takes the floral part too far and settles down to a nice powdery musk base. This is very far from the fresh scents of today though, so definitely do sample before buying. In small doses Oscar de la Renta pour Lui is the perfect, subtle compliment to a nice dark suit. Formal, traditional and very masculine.
10 April 2006

Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon's

Aristocratic hostility at it's finest. I can honestly say this is the only fragrance with a true adversarial character, you really feel superior when wearing it, and almost despise the simpletons around you. Of course I'm exagerating here, but in fact 2 of my friends have commented upon Blenheim saying it almost frightens them in a way. There's something about the zesty citrus in the opening that fools you into thinking this is just another Eau Sauvage copy, but BB is infinitely more complex. The lemon, which btw is masterfull in this fizzy & slightly bitter rendition, hangs around much longer than in ordinary colognes and melts into the smokey, antagonistic base of deep pine. A little spice (cardamom or cumin?)adds even more dimension, but it is that very english pine that makes this Penhaligon really stand out - giving it it's chilling edge. I really don't want to scare anyone off with this review, BB is a fantastic fragrance, but use it wisely - perhaps during a hostile corporate takeover, heated debates about the tragic demise of the great commonwealth or after winning your local cricket-championship (^o^).
27 March 2006

Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge by Bulgari

Extremely refreshing summer-cologne type of launch from the jewelcrazy italians. As extreme and over the top as their watches and jewelry may be (nicknamed Vulgari by some...) as subtle and refined are most of their fragrances. And this one is no exception. Smells very much of the african red tea Rooibos, an accord hard to describe, but I`d say it's somewhat dry and with a irony touch. The same vibe can be found in some of Comme de Garcons reds, and Eau Parfumee au The Rouge could easily be a part of that series. Some vanilla in the base makes it linger longer than most offerings in this concentration. Completely agree with Marlen's whine comaprison as well. Could become a summer staple.
27 March 2006

Pink Grapefruit by Floris

Brilliant in it's naive simplicity. A super-clean, fizzy cologne based on the lovely aroma of freshly squeezed pink grapefruits. I also think the longevity isn't half as bad as many say, easily lasts 6 hours, which is a lot considering it's carefree citrus anatomy. One of the most feelgood juices out there, sparkling and playful ingenuity. I don't think anyone could dislike this.
16 March 2006

Sandalwood by Floris

I don't like my sandalwoods harsh at all, so Santal Noble really doesn't do the trick for me. Others like Tam Dao - where cedar compliments very well, and Santal from this house - where spices and sweetness balance the blend, are much more appealing. And this sandalwood is perhaps the best on the market for the pure ones, perfectly mellow and soft. Wears close to the skin all day and is definitely more to the masculine side. Also smells very timeless and I was surprised to see how late it was lauched.
16 March 2006

Hamptons by Bond No. 9

Although I think the Creed-plagiarism that Bond is often accused of is somewhat exxagerated, this one really confirms some of the conspiratoric thoughts. Hamptons is simply a blatant ripoff of Silver Mountain Water. It does have some own merits, BUT overall inferior and most of all I must question the pyramid since it doesn't even mention tea and blackcurrant which are obviously very present in the juice. Get the original instead, afterall the price difference isn't that big.
16 March 2006

Wall Street by Bond No. 9

Very dissapointed in this one. It really feels more like a Drakkar Noir for the new millenium, than a great and original niche offering. Mossy, green, some citrus and a generic marine accord unfortunately don't add up to something worthy of this price range. Get the excellent sweet, green and pleasantly floral Central Park instead.
16 March 2006

New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

Like Scenteur7, this was my new years scent 2005-06. And it performed well, although I was somewhat dissapointed in the sillage department - where I expected wonders I received decent at best. Rochas Man is the most similar thing on the market IMO, and they both mainly feel like warm ground coffee/vanilla mixes. I wouldn't say New Harleem is a complex scent, but rather a well balanced one. The base-patchouli anchors the composition with a well needed semi-bitter earthiness so essential in the middle of all the sweetness. Overall I'd say it might not be worth hard retail cash, but e-bay deals etc should facilitate the plunge for interested people.
16 March 2006

Original Santal by Creed

Original Santal comes across as a hybrid between Chanel's Allure for men and Joop!, and thereby continuing the unfortunate recent trend of unoriginality. As much as I like Original Vetiver, the similarity to Mugler's cologne is even harder to get over in the light of this release. The fragrance itself is really well done and boosts exceptional longevity for this house. A sweet blend with woods, vanilla and red berries, but just like with OV the name-note is hardly present. If you're into sugary scents with massive staying power and a youthful overall vibe this might be for you.

BUT the subtle warnings of plagiarism are increasingly disturbing. Wouldn't suprise me if the next launch will be called Original Patchouli and smell like mix of Monsier de Givenchy and A*Men. Shape up guys.
16 March 2006

Héritage by Guerlain

CEO-ish powerhouse from this ancient french house. Similar in character to Bois du Portugal & Azzaro Ph but smelling very different from these. Heritage is a dark, mature, masculine juice with the classic Guerlinade-mix clearly pronounced. This can make the initial perception somewhat "sour", but this quicly fades in favour of cinnamon, vanilla and a massive amount of dry woods. Like many Guerlains, Heritage is available in many different concentrations. I prefer the Eau de Toilette.
16 March 2006

Arpège pour Homme by Lanvin

Insanely similar to Burberry Touch. And that one is great so Arpege is as well. A little less pepper and violet here + more tonka and overall sweetness. If you don't have the Burberry buy this one, if it is in your posession already - then pass. The longevity is equal also, very good in other words.
15 March 2006

Lanvin L'Homme by Lanvin

This one is a little overhyped according to me. Sure it is fesh, carefree and superior to tons of more recent launches in the same category, but I think it does lack personality and depth. Of course it may just be that it doesn't perform as it should on my skin. Worth trying anyhow.
15 March 2006

Z by Ermenegildo Zegna

As much as I like the classic, well made italian clothes from this house, as much do I despise their cheap moneymaking attempts of scents. Essenza and Z has really signaled what to expect fragrancewise here. Boring, no development, light, synthetic fruitiness without depth. Please do not make this one stay on the shelves longer than needed.
15 March 2006

Herrera for Men by Carolina Herrera

This concept has been done so much better so many times since 1991 that there really is no reason for buying this one. For superior woody tobacco spring for Dolce & Gabbana Ph or Burberry London intead. Outdated.
15 March 2006

Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera

I do agree there are some similarities with Creed's Millesime Imperial, it should also be pointed out that Herrera, just like Creed has a metallic house-note in many of their juices. I also definitely smell the cola-thing that some have metioned. Unfortunately there is also a significant amount of red pepper in the mix, that spoils the overall impression for me, making it somewhat similar to boring stuff like Gant Soho or
Tommy Hilfiger Freedom.
15 March 2006

212 Men by Carolina Herrera

Another 180 on my behalf. For many years I dismissed this as a run of the mill aquatic crap-scent. How I was mistaken. 212 is a perfect musky blend with some floral elements and that cool Herrera metallic house-note. The green pepper gives it some edge and the incense delivers a smooth and balanced drydown. It sticks around forever to, especially considering it's light and carefree aura. 10/10 - Good Stuff!
15 March 2006

D&G Masculine by Dolce & Gabbana

Have to disagree with my two highly respected colleagues Ipaid and Scenteur. It is indeed a simple citrus, but hardly bland. Quite contrary, it is very recognizeable on it's wearers due to a strong mint and herbal midsection which also makes it much more manly than many others in this genre. A summer staple, especially considering it's low price.
15 March 2006

Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

Hard to describe this as something else than a modern classic. Complex, strong and uncompromisingly masculine. Very mediterranean feel to it, just like Versace's Dreamer, and the two have more in common. Intense tobacco and cinnamon take center stage here, complimented by the citrus opening and woods/tonka drydown. Just like most countries, very popular here in Sweden.

Original, and somewhat surprisingly part of a very strong fragrace catalog from these two designers that one could think would be selling out big time in the fragrance section (like they have clothes-wise) . No such signs yet - sweet.
15 March 2006

Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier

Tricky one. Not on par with Classique or Le Male for sure, but interesting nevertheless, especially in the fatigued fragrance - climate of today. If there was a bubblegum with amber flavour, then this is what it would smell like. Very sweet, and ultimately too cloying for myself, with hints of cardamom. Probably somewhat more suited for the ladies, G2 is still definitely sampleworthy.
15 March 2006

Obsession Night for Men by Calvin Klein

Really nothing in common with the mighty original, this light figsy/coconutty juice is pretty boring. It would actually be good enough to buy if it wasn't for the terrible longevity that is now the trademark of this sadly sinking ship of a house. Release a concentree version and I'll reconsider. The classic Dinand flacon was updated nicely though.
15 March 2006

True Star Men by Tommy Hilfiger

Actually a decent rendition of saffron lurking inside this one, with pretty boy Iglesias gracing the cheapo packaging. Overall synthetic and messy and hardly worth a purchase (although it's really inexpensive) but the saffron in the opening is really nice, better than for instance the one found in Armani Mania.
15 March 2006

John Varvatos by John Varvatos

Reminds me strongly of Armani Black Code. one that is just okay. Unfortunately JV doesn't improve on that concept the least. Instead I perceive it as quite synthetic and slightly cloying. Apart from a GREAT flacon, this was a letdown.
15 March 2006

Corduroy by Zirh

This is really not a bad scent, but unfortunately very similar to previous things on the market. It shares a lot with for instance Jean-Luc Amsler's Pive. Soft, woodsy, slightly peppery and suedish. Well balanced but with pretty low staying power.The bottle is nicely made, thick brownish glass. I'd describe it as a Diet-Cuiron tailor made for office enviroment.
15 March 2006

Body Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

Bk is a safe scent, haven't come across anyone who's not attracted to it's sweet and incensey aroma. It's very similar to Lolita Lempicka minus the licorice. Eucalyptus, wood and a smokey sweetness creates a recognizeable and pleasant aura. One of my gay friends told me that it is huge within their community and I can easily understand why. Another hit from this distinguished house.
11 January 2006

Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe by Cartier

Unfortunately not improving on the original at all. This is a hollow, stale & simple scent that isn't worthy of the Cartier name. Yves Saint Laurent's Live Jazz does the mint and citrus thing way better.
11 January 2006

Pasha by Cartier

Pasha is an overdose of green notes. I don't find it balanced enough + it's extremely close to something else, can't remember what. It does smell kind of exclusive, as often is the case with this brand. But there is something off putting with the strong herbal dryness. Check out Jazz or Tsar instead, both in the same genre and superior IMHO.
11 January 2006

Chanel Pour Monsieur by Chanel

Classic indeed, and the opening citrus zest is to die for. But as always, this fades ridiculously fast and the whole scent is very weak. There's also some slightly "stuffy" notes in the mix, which are sure to scare of many young guys on the hunt for their signature fragrance.
11 January 2006

Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée by Chanel

A somewhat different take on the classic PM. It is indeed stronger as the name suggests, but not with great longevity unfortunately. It feels more modern, but not edgy in anyway. Main difference is a clear added note of nutmeg & something smelling slightly like coconut. More interesting than the original and with the badly needed extra strength (Pour Monsieur lasts approximately 15 minutes on me).
11 January 2006

Antaeus by Chanel

As someone pointed out earlier, conservative is the word here. A herbal, highly manly concoction with strong notes of patchouli, leather and red fruit. Dry and strong. Not one for the timid, then again - what released in 1981 is?
11 January 2006

Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

Superb blend, although it has absolutely NOTHING in common with the oiginal Egoïste. Woody, dry and fresh at the same time. There is a smokey, burnt cedar vibe going on that makes it very original as well. A masculine, modern, clean scent - perfect for urban enviroments. The only thing resembling it is Decleor's Un Air de Java.
11 January 2006

Beyond Paradise for Men by Estée Lauder

Opens up with an insane cucumber, like a bathtub full of the sliced vegetable, a bit nauseating actually. But it dries down to something completely else, somewhat Fahrenheit-ish actually. Not bad, and sporting a very good longevity. This has also received Luca Turins "blessing" if I'm not mistaken.
09 January 2006

Aramis Bermuda Tonic by Aramis

Very light and breezy, not something for a cold climate or mindset. Bermuda Tonic is very Piña Colada-ish and features a pleasant blend of bitter rhum and sweet coconut. It is a tonic however and probably intentionally designed to be sprayed very liberally since it´s quite weak. Inviting packaging, and a nice release after numerous Lauder dissapointments.
09 January 2006

Fracas by Robert Piguet

Fracas actually reminds me of Caron's Yatagan. It has that same ferocious bite and bad attitude, herbal, green and woody. As this was intended for women upon release, I strongly suspect the fairer sex was no joke in the 40's... Great, but wear with extreme moderation.
08 November 2005

Bandit by Robert Piguet

Simply brilliant. One of the great classics in female fragrance. A soft, powdery and slightly dirty floral with amazing staying power. One for the ages!
08 November 2005

Canoé by Dana

Musky, powdery oldie which is a nice "everyday" wear. A little citrus in the opening, but quickly goes into a honeyed talcum mode, much thanks to the heliotrope in the base I guess. I don't find it very woody like the others, it reminds me more of the subtle bitter-sweetness of the original Tabac. This due to a good deal of carnation in both.
29 September 2005

Céline pour Homme by Céline

The art nouveau-ish bottle by design-guru Thierry de Baschmakoff is unfortunately wasted on quite trivial contents. The juice is close to DKNY Men (the skyscraper bottle) and woodily boring. Annick Mennardo has been the nose of many fine blends in the past, like Lolita Lempicka and Bulgari Black. Apparently she was either out of inspiration or on strict orders from the Celine people when creating this one. Just the usual citrus/woods + a dash of spice mix here. Save your money.
29 September 2005

Sienna by Crabtree & Evelyn

Sienna is a herbal, leathery melange that leaves a calorific trail. It sports much more character than it's sibling Sienna. Beautiful presentation like always with Crabtree. The new design can be viewed here: http://store.crabtree-evelyn.com/sie218000.html .
Spicy, warm juice, but strict as well, ideal under a white shirt and bespoke suit.
29 September 2005

Nomad by Crabtree & Evelyn

C&E's shaving products are some of the finest on the market. I believe it is an american company(?) but the whole range is a high quality one in the steps of the traditional english barbershop represented by houses like Trumper, D.R. Harris and Truefitt & Hill. The Nomad fragrance is a very orthodox sandalwood, with supporting notes of teak and bamboo. Naturally the blend comes across as very woody, and is best worn for formal occassions. Layering it with the excellent shower gel significantly increases the otherwise moderate longevity.
29 September 2005

Sun Men by Jil Sander

The male version regrettably doesn't have anything in common with it's female counterpart. The original Sun (for women) was an extremely innovative scent, designed to smell like concentrated sun-tan lotion. Probably the best coconut based fragrance ever made. And highly wearable for men - no problem. This one is a very weak, generic summer cologne (definitely cologne strength as well...) full of calone, a synthetic widely used in the aquatic/marines of today. So it's anemic, artificial and common compared to the womens one, need I say which one you should choose?
28 September 2005

Sander for Man by Jil Sander

To me this doesn't seem quite as original as the others think. Sander for men is a sympathetic fusion of coriander, cedar and Chanel's Allure. It really resembles that fragrance but it's lighter, less cloying and without the tonka-bonanza. It does last well, and gives the wearer a distinctively urban feeling. An enjoyable modern eau de toilette.
28 September 2005

Aspen for Men by Coty

Coty is virtually unknown in Northern Europe, so when I got around to sample Aspen (many, many years ago) at a friends dads house I didn't have any cheapo-associations linked to the house at all. First of all the dark green bottle is well made and gives it a quality look. Secondly, Aspen is a really decent juice. Piney and mossy, very comforting in a classic way. It reminds me slightly of Tuscany, but much greener and minty. I think that this is a great choice considering the low price.
28 September 2005

Signature pour Homme by ST Dupont

Bought this blind and was delighted at first. It is however very heavy on the incense, and easily becomes cloying. Strictly for winter use therefore, where the ambery, piquant sweetness and woods will surely please it's wearer. Is very similar to Cacharel's Nemo by the way, minus the caramel and with significantly stronger incense.
As snowman pointed out the flacon is made to resemble an ink-well, which is of course a reference to the companys rich history of making high quality fountain-pens.
27 September 2005

Bleu Marine by Pierre Cardin

I agree with Dave, a terribly weak marine release. Not better in any way than Axe/Lynx aftershaves. Uninspired aquatic mess, simple and bad. The original Cardin, Pour Monsieur was a much better juice along the lines of the first Polo by Ralph Lauren. Piney, fresh and masculine.
By all means stay away from Bleu Marine though.
27 September 2005

America for Men by Perry Ellis

This was a blatant rip off of the original Tommy Hilfiger cologne. They even copied it conceptually with the regional american components/notes. I have to say that the end result is slightly better though, mainly to the nice and juicy pineapple in the opening. Overall a generic release which was discontinued, not exactly surprisingly.
27 September 2005

Paul Smith London for Men by Paul Smith

Neat "swinging sixties" flacon, but only decent content. London could have been excellent if it wasn't so artificial in it's general ambiance. It's figgy, rummy, coconutty and cosily woody. There seems to be large- scale trends in the mainstream designer houses every year now, multiple launches under a given period smell very similar. And this is definitely the case with London, Armani's Black Code and CK's Obsession night. Out of these 3, the Paul Smith is the given winner, especially longevity-wise. An acceptable cologne, and a huge improvement over the two first very dissapointing offerings.
27 September 2005

Minotaure by Paloma Picasso

Very 90's in the overall feel, for me along with Eternity this was one of the signature scents of that decade. Minotaure achieved huge sales in Europe, especially considering the small Picasso brand. A strong juice, heavy on vanilla, orange blossom and jasmine. Instantly recognizeable and somewhat sexually ambigous courtesy of the florals. Smooth leathery base with a mellow sweetness that keeps delievering throughout the day. The closest scent is without a doubt Roma by Biagiotti, but Minotaure is the better of the two, at least for me.
27 September 2005