Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Jack Hunter

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Black Gold by Ormonde Jayne

It starts with some nice lemon citrus and juniper mixed in with some soft spice. The way the juniper mixed in with the citrus and soft spice is very well done and very nice.

After a while the soft Sandalwood appears and makes itself known, I like this phase as the Sandalwood is top quality and very good. Also what makes it smell better is the light amber which seems to underpin the Sandalwood. All in all at this stage it's a very smooth very soft and light citrus and sandalwood scent.

After a good while the scent very slow seems to gain floral aspects out of the juniper like citrus. Now it's nothing distinct like a straight up jasmine or rose fragrance but more like amalgamation of different floral notes that weave a subtle tapestry within the juniper like citrus. In fact I'm sure I can smell the orchid or it may be a lily note as it's adding a slight watery aspect to the scent. Though it's all very subtle as you would expect from a very ethereal ghost like scent.

Now this fragrance is imo very subtle and tightly weaved with a lot of nuances that can very easily be overlooked unless you are like me over analyzing each stage and aspect. I do like very much the way the floral aspects slowly unfurl out of the juniper citrus. I must say it is very lovely and unexpected and something that can be very easily overlooked as everything is so subtle.

Again after a while the scent slowly shifts and I can smell musk and patchouli but it's not dominating but just rearing it's head from within the sent as the floral aspect weakens. Though eventually it does become stronger and starts to meld with amber note. Now these notes are not a straight transition but like before they appear slowly within other notes before becoming a bit more stronger.

After six sprays from my 10ml decant which only sprays out a little amount I get about six hours in longevity.

In an all it's a very ethereal and light bodied scent hampered with projection issues.
18th July, 2015

Shalimar by Guerlain

Shalimar EdP opens with a astringent citrus accord of bergamot and lemon and then moves into a lovely vanilla scent.

When the incense arrives and melds with the vanilla the scent does become quite alluring.

Though as it evolves you begin to smell leather and civet which also mix's in with the incense in a unpleasant way. At this stage it starts to smell acrid like mothballs or bug spray.

The scent is complex and has many facets of development with floral notes adding to the above notes.

I like some elements of the fragrance like the vanilla and incense. But what kills my interest is the dated mothball/bugspray like accord coming from the civet and incense.
07th May, 2015

Chypre Palatin by MDCI

This scent is a wonderful luxurious hybrid chypre oriental fragrance that smells classy and opulent. Only the finest ingredients have been used and it shows.

On the opening we have a bitter green floral accord from the Galbanum coupled with a sparkling fuzzy champagne scent coming from the aldehydes. A tinge of citrus and the symphony is now in full swing.

Underneath this opening is a gorgeous slightly sweet vanilla toffee like balsam adding a contrast to the bitter green accord.

After a while the Hycinth takes over which is a green and slightly rooty floral note, like the stem of a potted plant. At this stage the gorgeous musky vanilla toffee balsam note becomes stronger. And we have a lovely balance of the green floral and sweet notes.

Many hours later the floral notes of jasmine and rose and can be smelled all blended in harmony like a symphony.

This scent is so complex and every time I wear it I can pick different notes, it almost shimmers on the skin showing you different aspects. Sometimes a fruity note appears and other times a slight animalic accord rears it's head.

The fragrance lasts five hours before it reigns itself in but I can still detect it on my skin and clothes for many hours after. The projection is average but the scent is soft and very refined making it versatile to be sprayed on your neck without choking you out.

A perfect ten out of ten fragrance in my book and a scent I would class as a masterpiece in the art of perfumery
22nd April, 2015
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Oud Shamash by The Different Company

On first application this scent comes at you all at once with different notes swirling around you.

I get boozy oud with woods as well a saffron and patchouli which comes on strong. The scent is sweet with a fruity aroma peeking out from the boatload of notes.

The scent is spicy and a little medicinal, talk about having the fragrance equivalent of everything and the kitchen sink coming at you all at once.

After a while everything seems to fall a little flat with the projection suddenly reining itself in to below average. The Oud is gone and you are just left with a woody boozy pink pepper accord on your skin which is disappointing. The scent turns into a skin scent within a few hours and then it's gone on my skin.

I have to say it does remind me of Jubilation by Amouage as I picking up the same vibe from the notes. The oud is there but not promient as it's overtaken by the woodsy notes and then disappears completely.

All in all a rich exotic smelling fragrance which comes out of the gate all at once quite strong and then just disappears leaving you with the feeling that you have just been jilted by your fragrance. I would pick Jubilation over this as this feels like a B version of that with poor performance.
20th April, 2015

Diaghilev by Roja Dove

Diaghilev opens with a brief blast of concentrated citrus notes and moves into a very animalic heavy civet and oakmoss accord. It stays like this for a long time, then it's slightly brightened by Ylang Ylang with some cloves joining the skanky party. The main star of the show is the civet and oakmoss and this never goes away.

I get average projection but good longevity of several hours before it's a skin scent.

This scent is like a piece of art from over a hundred years ago in a museum which you can appreciate but would not think of taking it home and hanging it in your living room. Though those who love Leather Oud, Vintage Korous, Mouchoir de Monsieur and other heavy civet and oakmoss fragrance will find much to love here.
19th April, 2015

Amber Aoud by Roja Dove

It starts off with a lovely high quality sensual oud aroma which is soon joined by a rose note. These opening notes are coupled with some citrus to give the scent a uplifting feel. At this stage it does smell very nice.

Underneath the plush and sensual fresh Oud accord I can detect some jasmine adding to the lovely overall effect but more in a supporting roll.

After a good while it becomes more complex with floral and other notes.

All in all a classy fresh posh and sensual oud fragrance supported by a host of notes making you feel like a billionaire. Good stuff!
18th April, 2015

parfums*PARFUMS Series 4 Cologne: Vettiveru by Comme des Garçons

A very nice dry and arid vetiver contrasted with a freshness from neroli and bergamot. As time moves forward a little pepper and woods come into the fray.

A worthy vetiver fragrance!
02nd April, 2015

Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

I have the EdT and get a light cream and bergamot opening followed by cinnamon and nutmeg, as time goes by I notice the cardamom. After a while I can detect some light floral's within the light talcum powder scent, everything is balanced just right. As I said very nice indeed.

The scent is light and soft and spicy and a little powdery in a light talcum powder way. Now the amazing thing about this fragrance is when it changes from the midnotes to the drydown the scent goes from very nice to totally MAGNIFICENT.

And this is all down to the wonderful captivating vanilla scent that smells quite regal. That change from a soft spicy scent to the amazing vanilla is quite dramatic. And the reason is it almost makes it smell like a different scent, almost.

A big thumbs up from me and I am going to have to get the Edp as well.
20th January, 2015

Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland

This fragrance opens clean, green and fresh with a lemon zest. It reminds me of a lot of different scents having a hint of each. It has the green feel of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, the slight soapiness of Irish Spring Soap, a dash of citrus from Original Vetiver and the lemon zest of Original Lacoste scent.

It does evoke the green countryside in the Spring after a light shower. As time goes by a earthy Patchouli can be smelled mixed in with the green freshness. This is followed by a lot of woods making the scent smell earthy and woody. The feeling at this stage moves from the green pastures to the green earthy woodland.

To sum up a very clean and fresh green and earthy woody scent that is a bargain. It is a very good quality fragrance that is one of the most affordable you can buy.
01st December, 2014

Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

I have the vintage aftershave from the early Eighties and a edt spray from 1993.

A very honeyed green mossy and slightly soapy scent that gives you that fresh out of the shower feeling. The quality is very good with a deep clean smell. The projection is soft and just below average with three or so hours with the aftershave and several with the edt.

Unfortunately after the year 2000 this scent was severely reformulated. The oakmoss that made this scent the classic it is became restricted in the amount they could use. With this scent it's best to find a older bottle to enjoy the clean sexy smell.

A big thumbs up on a scent that imo is as contemporary now as it was in 1973 when it was released. I mean when has smelling clean and fresh ever been dated.
27th November, 2014

New York Intense by Nicolaï

This fragrance smells very plush and classy with a nice creamy lemon and orange ambery soft spice opening. Throughout it's long life you can pick up cloves, cinnamon and vetiver all mixing in with the lovely ambery soft spice.

This fragrance is so smooth it fit's to your body chemistry like a hand going into a velvet glove. I get twelve hours longevity with the projection been in the Goldilocks range of been just right.

A very pleasant and inoffensive scent that suit's any situation and anyplace. A big thumbs up!
11th November, 2014

Cuir Cuba Intense by Nicolaï

On first application I get a soft haze of a aromatic smell of licorice and lemon with slight hints of mint. After a short while the tobacco can be smelled mixed in with other notes.

The opening does not last long and the Magnolia soon takes over and it dominates the composition from here on out. As you smell the Magnolia there are a lot of other notes that are dancing and interweaving through this main accord.

We have a light smell of tobacco on top of the magnolia almost like it has been sprinkled on top. There are hints of Ylang Ylang and other notes but the fragrance is so complex I just cannot pick them out to Id them.

Underneath the magnolia I can smell a warm emerging leather note and sometimes a hint of civet. This is what I believe is given the scent it's warmth under the magnolia accord.

As we move into the basenotes when the Magnolia has faded you are left with leather, hay and a hint of civet on your skin. Though the scent has pretty much lost it's power at this stage and is pretty muted on the skin.

I have to say the quality and complexity is top notch and very impressive. The scent is definitely unisex as the contrast of the floral and warm tobacco and other notes make it ideal for men or women.

The only thing that I'm not totally taken with and it's just a taste thing is the dominance of the Magnolia note. It's nice but a bit too much, I think I would rather the tobacco to be dominant. What I'm liking is the complexity and how the other notes interplay with the floral note, I like how the leathery warmth seems to be at the base of the Magnolia note.

All in all a very good complex fragrance that is very well crafted, I'm impressed!
09th November, 2014 (last edited: 08th November, 2014)

Or Masculin by Bourjois

This smells just like vintage Bel Ami which I also have. I would say about 90% identical to it, maybe just slightly spicier. Same top quality, in fact I could see people liking this slightly more than vintage Bel Ami. It has more of the soft spice over the leather than Bel Ami.

Imagine the smell of a old worn leather sofa with a lot of soft spices on top and you have this fragrance. Wonderful scent which unfortunately is now discontinued though it does pop up on Ebay occasionally.
07th November, 2014
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Memoirs of a Trespasser by Imaginary Authors

Wow this is gorgeous and complex!

On first application to my skin I'm getting a wonderful smoky woods and dried vanilla. And I have to say it smells absolutely great.

Shortly after a melody of different resins, amber, spices interact with the main smoky vanilla and woods. This slightly changes the smell so every-time you take a sniff your picking up something new.

As it dries down you can smell a resinous Mryhh note mixing in with the dried vanilla. And even at this stage you will be picking up different nuances to the scent.

I have to say I'm so impressed with this wonderful fragrance that I will be buying a full bottle.

Nine out of Ten.
17th June, 2014

Oud Fleur by Tom Ford

This opens with a strong sweetened rose with a lot of patchouli coming through. The oud note is a bit subdued within this blend and does not really stand out.

Eventually the scent becomes woody and tames the sweetened rose.

This is a very nice fragrance but there are so many like this which this is not the best.
15th June, 2014

Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford

Well this opens with tobacco and oud and is soon joined by a lovely whiskey note. Spices and a dash of honey soon join the fray and I have to say it's very nice.

Underneath the main notes is a woody backdrop which is more noticeable if you smell yourself up close. The whiskey note is very good within this composition and adds to the character of the scent.

They could have called this fragrance Tobacco Whiskey as the oud disappears not long after the opening and the wonderful whiskey note lingers on throughout the life of the scent.

Overall a excellent spicy tobacco fragrance. A big two thumb ups.!
15th June, 2014

Patchouli Impérial by Christian Dior

This opens with a really loud in your face Patchouli mixed in with coriander and woods. There is also a hint of citrus and florals making the patchouli smell creamy.

As the scent dries down it becomes more woody with a slight amber sweetness. Though the patchouli stays linear throughout.
14th June, 2014

Ambre Nuit Cologne by Christian Dior

This opens with a airy soft spicy pink rose with slight citrus undertones. After the opening the amber starts to blend with the rose but it's not a overly sweet amber. This is also coupled with pepper.

The pink rose dominants this composition with the amber giving the rose smell more depth. But in a very subtle way in that the pink rose is just slightly sweet.

To sum up a beautiful rose fragrance slightly sweetened by amber with hints of pepper and citrus shining within the blend.
14th June, 2014

Fetish pour Homme by Roja Dove

A explosion of spicy leather with lime is what I'm getting on first application. Oakmoss with floral hints as well as cinnamon also start to bloom from within the main spicy leather and lime accord.

This scent is a lot like Puredistance M, it has the same spicy DNA but with a big dose of lime in the mix.

A very good spicy leather with a twist of lime.
14th June, 2014

Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

On the opening I'm getting spicy woody incense that is smoky and peppery.

The woods do become more like pencil shavings in the drydown. The scent also starts to smell like Indian food mixed with woody incense.

The projection is close to the skin and the scent can only really be smelled if smelled up close. Also the longevity was only a couple of hours.

13th June, 2014

Oud Ispahan by Christian Dior

This starts with a jammy rose and oud which is soon joined by patchouli making the scent more earthy. As time passes the scent gets more woody from a dose of sandalwood.

This smells nice and is well done but just does nothing to distinguish itself from a dozen or so similar scent on the market.
13th June, 2014

Shooting Stars: Modoc by Xerjoff

On the opening I'm getting a very astringent iris and violet on a bed of dry vetiver.

As time passes a orange note appears within the blend with a little bit of sweetness making the scent more aromatic.

Eventually the dry vetiver and sweetness combine as we move into the basenotes.

I find this scent a bit unpleasant with notes that are not totally in harmony with each other.
13th June, 2014

Sand Aoud by Mancera

On first application I can pick up on a blend of Oud, blackcurrant and patchouli with a slight medicinal undercurrent.

The scent is fruity and spicy and eventually gets more sweeter as it eventually drys down.

A nice scent though not my cup of tea.
13th June, 2014

Cuir Beluga by Guerlain

This opens with a gorgeous creamy vanilla coupled with a leather suede note. Within this are hints of the citrus mandarin note and I must say this is lovely.

As time passes a amber note gives the vanilla that extra full body sweetness but never overwhelms. Also within this beautiful composition floral notes can be detected. Giving the fragrance a extra layer of complexity.

To sum up a exquisite enigmatic amber vanilla fragrance that has hidden facets of leather and florals just waiting to be explored.
12th June, 2014

Arsène Lupin Dandy by Guerlain

On the opening I'm getting strong notes of cardamom and citrus with pink peppers and powdery violets. This is surrounded by a soft ever-present sandalwood.

The opening is a little overbearing but it soon settles down to a powdery violets and woods accord with a dash of incense.

A rough opening that settles down to a very pleasant fragrance.
12th June, 2014

Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

A weak bland citrus marine fragrance that lasts no more than a hour on my skin. Not impressed!
12th June, 2014

Enigma Pour Homme by Roja Dove

This opens with a very refined slightly boozy vanilla note that is soon joined by a tobacco accord.

This is reminiscent of Tobacco Vanilla but more smooth and dialed down in it's projection. More high quality and the slight boozyness is a nice touch.

A very nice fragrance but way overpriced imo.

12th June, 2014

Sycomore (new) by Chanel

It opens with a very dry and smoky vetiver with tobacco. After a while a lovely soft sandalwood takes over mixed in with cypress. The sour like vetiver note though still shines within the blend.

A very good quality vetiver scent!
12th June, 2014

Amber Oud by By Kilian

Amber and vanilla with cedar getting between these notes so it never reaches that satisfying olfactory climax. Also in the blend is balsam note which is like a very toned down Tiger balm. But alas no Oud whatsoever.

This smells nice but it is not very well blended at all. There are many ambery vanilla fragrances that are better and way more affordable. Also the pretentious name of this fragrance is misleading as there is no Oud to speak of.

To sum up a poorly blended amber and vanilla fragrance with a name that is a misnomer.
11th June, 2014

Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

A cold misty iris root that is as everyone says like the smell of carrots. It's powdery and woody with a earthy note.

Different and strange smelling to my nose.
11th June, 2014