Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Jack Hunter

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Total Reviews: 424

Le Canotier by Rogue Perfumery

From the top I get a citrus infused vetiver that is also woody with hints of tobacoo, violet and ambergris. You get this interesting blend of notes straight away all blended and intertwined very smoothly. It smells very nice and it also has a good dose of oakmoss with a hint of white florals. It's quite complex and like a vetiver scent that you always wanted to be more interesting. Well here you have it with blended with a lot of agreeable notes.

06th November, 2019

Mousse Illuminee by Rogue Perfumery

I get a lovely fresh blast of sweet moss and musk with incense and cypress. It has that old school shaving cream vibe and is quite potent. I get the polo vibe but this is more unisex. It is quite linear but all in all a very good green herbal like scent. Thumbs up!
06th November, 2019

Chypre-Siam by Rogue Perfumery

On the opening I get lush lime and basil with white florals of creamy ylang ylang and the most beautiful jasmine accord. There is exotic spices, sandalwood, hints of civet and a lovely sweet oakmoss to die for. These notes are constantly dancing around each other at the same time, what a beauty.

You can tell a lot of thought and careful consideration went into creating this. The scent is very complex and intricate with really natural smelling ingredients. They truly don't make them like this anymore. Thank god for Rogue Perfumery in bringing back the dying art of the true chypre fragrance. This is a vintage lovers dream of a fragrance!

Wonderful!
05th November, 2019
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Antiquity by Areej le Doré

Ahhhh man this is so good. Imagine if you will the most supple brown leather that it could be the inside of a very expensive luxury car. Add chocolate patchouli and bergamot and then wrap the supple brown leather chocolate infused citrus with a heavenly pure carnation accord. Like it was just plucked from within heavens gate and brought to earth for mortal men to enjoy.

And then add the most beautiful Cambodian oud accord with it's multifaceted woodsy and slightly sweet caramel accord for the drydown. Add a few drops of musk and you have a concoction to die for. I love this juice!

Well from two sprays of Antiquity I get all day longevity from 10am to 2am and even in the morning I could smell the basenotes. The projection though not stellar is better than the other three on my skin. So that 30ml bottle is going to last some time.

I have to say I have never worn a scent that has given me such a buzz and has had me walking around all day on cloud nine. Absolutely amazing smelling masterpiece!
03rd November, 2019

Siberian Summer by Areej le Doré

The first thing to hit me after spraying two sprays of Siberian Summer was a beautiful musk. It pounced on me like a cat, this was followed by lime, bergamot and a smoky camphor note.

The musk is nice and slightly sweet which is mixed in with a green pine and I'm picking up on a lot of smoke.

It smells like your walking towards a piney musky smelling forest where there is smoke in the distance coming from within the forest. There is this slight woody aroma underneath the musk that is very nice indeed. It compliments the piney smoky musk.

Eventually the vetiver comes with this woodyness and it adds a nice contrast to the musky pine scent accord. Though in the basenotes the cedar comes into play and that woodyness makes the scent smell very dry like smelling piney musk in a desert.

Now it smells nice for a good while though it is a bit astringent and harsh smelling especially if you try to smell the scent up close. Then it does become a bit one dimensional and I do detect a pissy urine accord that I don't like.

The musk will keep tantalizing your nose though I am not keen on the cedar and when it turns very dry and I mean desert dry. At this stage I cannot help feeling that I have had enough.

The longevity is good with over several hours and more but like a lot from the range the projection is below average. This does stay close to you.
03rd November, 2019

Plumeria de Orris by Areej le Doré

What I get from this is a flowery fruity orris glazed in honey scent accord. The exotic flower is the Plumeria, the fruity aspect is coming from the apricot and orris is the powdery violet tinged note.

It is light and beautiful and does lean towards the feminine spectrum but not so much that a man cannot pull off wearing this. But then it all depends on what your threshold is and where you draw the line.

There is a vanilla sweetness to the scent and when after a few hours the Sandalwood appears the scent starts to smell better and better. The Sandalwood seems to ground the scent and give it more body whilst making it more unisex.

As we move into the basenotes you can smell a slight resinous myrhh which does become stronger though this does not diminish the flowery fruity orris glazed in honey accord.

Also now and again you can smell a very slight animalic civet note but it comes and goes very quickly. It adds a slight animalic tinge.

Now the longevity is good with this lasting more than ten hours but the projection is about average.

I like this though I do feel that the orris dominates everything else and drowns out the Plumeria accord for a lot of the time. When it does show it self it smells very lovely!
03rd November, 2019

War and Peace by Areej le Doré

At the start I get a blast of fresh civet which is quickly followed by rose, incense and powder. After this there is this very strange scent accord that smells like a old Victorian house that has not been lived in for a hundred years would smell like. Or if you like the smell of a old musty smelling museum full of ancient antiquity's.

After about thirty minutes this fades away and you are left with the rose and powder which starts to feel animalic. You can smell the deer musk as it announces it's presence but it is kept in check by the rose and powder.

As time goes by the musk becomes more pronounced and then starts to get leathery. This is where the castoreum comes into play. So you have a scent that is rosey, musky and leathery with a slight incense like amber.

Now well into the drydown after many hours you can smell a very lovely sweet ambery musky ambergris accord with a animalic tinge. This eventually turns into golden incense amber with animalic hints.

Now the longevity lasts all day but the projection is well below average. This one stays quite close to, more of a personal scent for you to enjoy than anything that others will pick up on unless they are close to you.

The ingredients are top notch and it does smell good if you like rosey slightly powdery musky incense tinged animalics. Though I think the first 30 minutes with that old museum like scent accord is the most challenging. I think that scent accord will be very polarizing and will put a lot of people off the scent.

I like it and I think this with it's natural ingredient's will mature and get better with age.
03rd November, 2019

Sahraa Oud by Fragrance Du Bois

Here you get everything at once, and you can smell the different facets every-time you smell it. At first you can smell the grapefruit and a very lovely ouddy smell, smell it again and you notice the rose. But the rose is not a dominant note just a facet within the blend. Smell it again and it's the saffron and then the amber.

One thing I'm glad about is that the Oud is front and centre and not just in the title or buried within a boatload of other notes. Here they deliver the oud smell and it's very nice indeed.

Now it reminds me of a more sophisticated version of Amber Oud by Roja Dove. Take the similar vibe of that throw in all natural oud and beautiful ingredients that work in harmony with each other. It actually smells very expensive and lush, straight away you know why it's so expensive. There are no cheap smelling ingredients here.
28th October, 2019

Collection Grands Crus : Oud Wa Ward by Berdoues

Oud and Roses with patchouli but this has the most wonderful burst of rosy freshness it has your head spinning. It has a creamy like grapefruit rosy freshness that is intoxicating. Very lovely!
24th October, 2019

Mandarava by Parfum Prissana

Mandarava is a beautiful exotic floral but it does cross my too feminine line in the sand. It has a big dose of tuberose which I don't get on with. This note is mixed in with champa and jasmine and I'm sure other notes. It smells like a deeply feminine rosey cherry like scent. It's captivating and bewitching but I just could not pull this one off or feel comfortable wearing it. Though on a lady this would be stunning.
16th October, 2019

Ma Nishtana by Parfum Prissana

This is not cold churchy incense. It starts out the same with the Frankincense and Myrhh and then becomes warm, inviting, smoky, spicy with a slight sweet amberyness. It's not my style but I have to admit it's good, very good.
16th October, 2019

Musk Cologne by Bortnikoff

Tropical flowers melding with citrus tangerine notes is soon joined by a rich musk and lovely sandalwood. These notes are constantly dancing around each other. There is also a hint of what smells like oud within this beautiful composition.

I get several hours in longevity with moderate projection, it does stay close to you.

All in all a lovely exotic smelling scent with quality natural ingredients.
22nd September, 2019

Moroccan Amber by Dunhill

A lovely citrus and warm amber is what the sense's pick up on spraying this upon oneself. This is followed by saffron and cardamom and these notes mixing in with the warm citrus amber make the composition smell earthy. So you have a bright citrus amber on top that has a earthy body. And basically that's your lot.

Have to say though it does smell very lovely, a simple accord that does not irritate me like the Sandalwood scent. Like the rest of the range I just wish there was more complexity. Maybe the perfumer's were on a budget and someone greedy at Dunhill just wanted a quick return.
08th August, 2019
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British Leather by Dunhill

On the opening you can smell bergamot weaved with a small amount of violet and soon after you get a small amount of oily leather and that's basically it. Again like the rest of the line it is very minimalistic with simple accords.

I cannot help imagining someone buying a full bottle from Harrods and opening the box in anticipation. They would be all excited in purchasing something expensive and exclusive. And then watching their face as it fills with disappointment. "Is this it, £120 I've spent from Harrods no less. And this is all they could come up with, I've smelled scents that cost a fraction of this that smelled more complex. And at least they made the effort.". lol

It's decent but I'm not impressed with British leather especially at this price point.

On a side note that candy like jelly baby smell that I mentioned in the sandalwood review. Well I smelled it in the far far drydown of Arabian Desert and it's in this as well. And it annoys me because when all the other notes have been spent, that jellybaby candy like smell just persists. I've been smelling it now for days.
08th August, 2019

Arabian Desert by Dunhill

Now this one is very nice indeed and I have been enjoying wearing it this fine day. It opens soft and spicy with pink pepper and saffron with a touch of freshness from the bergamot. Soon after the rose develops and this accord is the star of the show, it's a really lovely bright slightly creamy pink rose. Now in a lot of scents of this type the rose can be very strong and can drown out the other notes. Not so here, the lush rose (and it's lovely) flows and ebbs like the tides of the ocean out of the gentle soft spiciness. So every so often a aroma of a beautiful bright and slightly creamy rose just caresses your senses only to return to the rosy soft spiciness.

Now this is what I really like about this scent is that it is really well balanced making it very wearable. The star of the show rose never overwhelms or drowns out the other notes. After three hours and into the basenotes you are left with a very nice rosy soft spiciness that reminds me a little bit of Ambre Nuit but without the powder and with a better rose note.

Now onto the so called Oud, it's basically not here and I think I would be shocked if it was from Dunhill. Now I don't know the mind of the creator but I am going to try and guess what she was going for with this note. Now with real oud you would get a cheesy barnyard aroma and then when that dies down you get a creamyness from the Oud that mixes in with the rose. In real Oud and rose combos the use of real oud adds depth to the scent and rounds out the rose accord into something lush smelling.

Now here in the basenotes I can smell the slightly creamy effect with the rose, not as great as the real thing but it's there. Of course the animalic aspect has not been replicated, again not with Dunhill. So this is my guess that the creamy aspect with the rose is the creators way of replicating the effect of Oud on the rose.

Now the price for what you get is expensive as you can get the same quality for half price ie Royal Potion Black to name one. But all in all it's very lovely and I like it a lot.

On a side-note when all the above notes are spent and in the far dry-down there is this annoying jelly-baby candy accord. It's the same accord that is in Indian Sandalwood and British leather. It persists through showers and is just weird and annoying to have this accord running through most of the scents from this exclusive range.
08th August, 2019

Indian Sandalwood by Dunhill

At the start you can smell a mossy green bergamot that has a slight annoying candy like tinge to it's nature. After a minute the soft sandalwood arrives and develops a creamy and milky like accord that is slightly sweet. Underneath the Sandalwood you can still detect the bergamot with it's slight candy like tinge. This jelly-baby candy like accord becomes more prominent in the basenotes. And basically that is it from start to finish.

Now I like the Sandalwood accord as it's very nice but the fragrance is very linear and you cannot help wanting more. It's light but does have a distinct presence but I wish there was more complexity to this one. But though I like it I think I would get bored of it quickly. It costs a £120 which I think is too much.
08th August, 2019

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

Imagine a orange grove in Tuscany full of tilled earth and greenery. As you look up into the sky you notice a storm is gathering. The winds pick up and clouds roll in and the smell is a sweet, pungent zing in your nostrils. That's the sharp, fresh aroma of ozone.

You look around and take a deep breath and you can smell the orange citrus and peppery earth mixing in with the mineral like ozone. A storm is coming....

This is what I get from Terre d' hermes as it develops more complexity on the skin. It's very classy, sophisticated and lasts several hours on my skin.

Every time I wear this I just cannot help thinking of earthy orange grooves as a storm gathers. That tension in the air is captured beautifully in this scent.
09th July, 2019

Vetiver Blanc by Sultan Pasha

Now this is gorgeous and I like it which is a surprise as I don't like tuberose in a scent but here it's blended well so I don't mind it so much. It does lean towards the feminine spectrum but not crazy so that I did not enjoy it. It's very nice!

It opens up with a very fresh blend of tuberose, gardenia, neroli, vetiver and ambergris and smells floral, fresh and salty. The gardenia is done so it does not overwhelm which is a accomplishment as that note can really take over if not blended properly.

The neroli note really lends a beautiful floral tinge to the overall freshness. After a hour or so when the tuberose/gardenia have calmed down the vetiver becomes more apparent and it's blended seamlessly with ambergris. You get that salty aspect with the vetiver and then the neroli just adds that gorgeous hue to the blend. And that's what you are left with to my nose in the drydown, a lovely salty ambergris vetiver that is made more beautiful with a shimmer of neroli when you can smell a waft of it drifting towards your nose.
11th June, 2019

Truffe Blanche by Sultan Pasha

Well I did not like this one at all, powdery white chocolate with what smells like almonds is what I pick up. Like something from a bakery.The sillage and projection were very weak to nearly a skin scent. I actually reapplied after a hour as it was so weak but got the same result.

Well moving on, you cannot love them all.
11th June, 2019

Le Rayon Vert by Sultan Pasha

Imagine a country garden early on in the morning just after the rain when the sun is shining. You can smell a fresh green scent that is carried on a breeze to your nose. It's like the freshness of the morning dew mixing in with the greenery from the plants, trees and grass. Soon after you take a walk amongst the greenery when a multitude of flowery aromas just caresses your senses almost like you have been given a bouquet of flowers and are inhaling deeply.

This encapsulates the scent for me and it is absolutely beautiful, a winner to be sure. The fresh green opening is followed by the elemi resin which smells like pine, lemon and light honey. You can smell a touch of oakmoss and then the garden full of multitude of flowery aromas. Stunning!

In fact the scent reminds me of his other creation Etude en Fougere but with more greenery at the start and flowery from then on. Totally unisex, I have no problem wearing this beauty. The projection is very good as well.

All in all a country garden with it's greenery and flowery smells captured beautifully by the skilled hand of Sultan Pasha, bravo. It's wonderful!
10th June, 2019

Al Lail by Sultan Pasha

This opens up with some citrus and then the civet and jasmine take over in a overwhelming forceful way. The civet is in the driving seat with jasmine sitting next to it but you are in no doubt who the boss is here. In the back seat you get hints of peach and patchouli and slight sweet notes. It's basically a floral civet bomb. I quite like it actually but don't think I could wear it as it projects like a beast. I applied a small amount to my left wrist and rubbed it in, and it could knock you out if you were in the same room as me.

Now it reminds me of Roja Doves Diaghilev and Sultans Encen Chypre. But in Diaghilev the oakmoss suffocates you with the civet with the forals been in the backseat. With Encen Chypre this accord is in the mix but dialled way back within the forestry notes. Here the civet and jasmine is just amplified way up, as I said above I like it but it's just too much. In Encens Chypre this accord is quite lovely as it is balanced and part of a chorus.

I find it amusing how some of Sultans attars are quiet and restrained in the projection department where others like this are louder. This though is a bomb. It does like the above mentioned scents have a classic old school feel to it.
09th June, 2019

Café Ambre Noir by Sultan Pasha

This one smells just wonderful and I really like it. It's a crowd pleasing comfort scent that's sweet but never too sweet or cloying.

It opens up with coffee and rum and reminds me of a coffee lacquer which is soon joined by cocoa, amber, vanilla. It smells like one of those coffee deserts that has a alcoholic rum added to it. After a hour the alcoholic rum fades and you are left with dry cocoa and exotic spices. A beautiful nose pleasing scent that would be great in the winter or the fall.

Now the projection does seem to be a bit more subtle than his usual attar's. I have noticed that some seem to project more than others. One tip with these attar's if you want more ooommmph in the projection department. After your usual application if you add a little bit of oil to your finger tip and apply it to the collarbone front and centre below the chin you will get that extra oommph.

Big thumbs up with this one and one that is full bottle worthy imo if you like crowd pleasing sweet notes of ambre, coffee, vanilla, cocoa.
08th June, 2019

Nankun Kodō by Sultan Pasha

I have to say he has captured the smell of Japanese Incense which is a remarkably achievement. I get smoky resinous spicy woods with cypress and it even has that incensey turpentine smell you get with some of the Japanese incense. I like it as I could light one of my incense sticks and get a similar smell.

Now the longevity was only two hours each time on my skin from two wearings and the scent is very subtle bordering on undetectable. You just get subtle wafts here and there. Now I like this scent but it's more of a artistic fragrance experience than something you would wear as a fragrance. If I wanted to smell this type of scent I would just light one of my Japanese incense sticks and enjoy a stronger incense experience. Though I take my hat off to Sultan Pasha for this realistic artistic creation, it actually does smell like Japanese incense and in that it's a achievement!

08th June, 2019

Ensar Rose by Sultan Pasha

Well I have had mixed feelings about this one, some parts I like and others I don't care for.

It opens with a blend of creamy red & white roses followed up with strong hints of tuberose and vetiver. The tuberose gives the scent a incensey feeling and the vetiver adds a slight woodsy aroma. This all stays around for about two hours and then it starts to change.

The rose becomes more honeyed and smells really nice with the oud arriving giving the scent dirty animalic hints. At this stage the tuberose and vetiver have died down a bit to give way to hints of mysore sandalwood. When the honeyed rose and mysore sandalwood join it does smell really beautiful.

At about four hours the mysore sandalwood takes over with now just hints of the past dominating honeyed rose and this smells just well mighty fine.

Now I like the creamy Rose in the first two hours but I'm not keen on the tuberose which gives the creamy rose that incensey vibe. Also the vetiver note just smells weird and out of place with creamy roses. Maybe it's just me and my personal preferences. Even though the scent is unisex (just about) it does lean towards the feminine spectrum especially in the first two hours.

Now after the first two hours things start smelling much much better. When the rose becomes honeyed and the scent becomes more intricate and tightly weaved with oud and sandalwood I start liking it more and more. The mysore sandalwood in the basenotes is stunning, especially when it blends with the honeyed roses.

The projection is soft and the sillage is more restrained than his other scents but the longevity is good on my skin. I've had it on for about seven hours and can still smell subtle wafts of the mysore sandalwood.

All in all I'm not wowed if I'm honest and I'm not keen on the first two hours but it does become much better after two hours. I do prefer his other new and yet to be released Juriah fragrance as my choice of a rose scent. That one is simply stunning. I think I need more time with this one and I'm sure it will grow on me as this is only one wearing.
07th June, 2019

Tabac Grande by Sultan Pasha

Imagine if you will that you are staying at a hotel in Casablanca and the manager has invited you to the Cigar Lounge. On entering the first thing that you see is how rich and decadent the furnishings are. We are talking about dark leather bound chairs, mahogany tables with the walls fitted with dark wooden alcoves. To your left there is a old piano with someone playing a Jazz tune and straight ahead is the bar with a man dressed in a tuxedo serving a customer a whisky drink. You take a sniff of the air and it's filled with cigar smoke and alcohol from the nights festivities.

As you take your seat in one of the leather bound chairs the manager signals to a waiter who brings you a leather bound pouch. As he places this in front of you he mentions this is the finest pipe tobacco laced with a vintage special reserve cognac that is kept in the walk in humidor for when the mayor visits.

You take your Sherlock Holmes pipe out of your pocket in anticipation and then proceed to open the pouch of the finest pipe tobacco. You close your eyes and inhale deeply, the smell of rich aromatic tobacco laced with a fine smelling alcoholic Cognac greets your senses. It's warm and spicy with a slight sweet muskiness coming from the cognac. This smells fantastic as it is blended so no one note overwhelms the other. You take another sniff and you notice a dry woodiness that smells like cedar giving the scent that dry warmth.

This is what I get when I smell this scent, rich tobacco with a beautiful alcoholic Cognac that has a slight sweetness to it. It's aromatic and at the start it almost has a lacquer quality to it with what smells like dark molasses. But I think it's the dark resin with a touch of immortelle which is the signature Sultan Pasha accord that is in a lot of his scents.

The projection is soft and the longevity is good, I've had it on my skin for about six hours and it's still there. So all in all a very rich, decadent smelling aromatic pipe tobacco of the finest quality.
06th June, 2019

Irisoir by Sultan Pasha

A very floral and feminine iris coupled with violet is what I get which does become more buttery. After a while you can detect hints of lavender and peach with a slightly sweet mimosa joining the composition. The first hour or so the projection is very good until it withdraws to become closer to you.

Not my cup of tea as it smells too feminine, would smell great on a lady but I just could not pull this one off. After three hours it's basically a skin scent, it does not perform as well as some of his other compositions but that could just be skin chemistry.
20th May, 2019

Equilibre by Sultan Pasha

On the opening you have a juicy lime with some cheesy barnyard Oud which disappears within two minutes to add that creamy depth to the scent. Then you have a beautiful orange blossom and neroli wrapped up in a gorgeous freshness. At this stage it smells exactly like vintage Kobe from Xerjoff and it smells amazing.

Every so often you get a animalic hint coming from the Oud that adds sensuality along with a slight creaminess. I've said this before but I love the way he adds animalics to his scents to a smaller or larger degree for that contrast. I don't mind the cheesy barnyard type of oud as it vanishes quickly and adds such good depth to a scent.

So here I am surrounded in a halo of lush fresh neroli and orange blossom with it's creamy depth and animalic hints. Wonderful!
19th May, 2019

Pure Incense by Sultan Pasha

Well this was pretty much a non event. At the start I got a very balsamic resinous myrrh that was slightly sweet. A bit of cedar joined the fray and then five minutes later it was a skin scent. Slight whiffs I've myrrh when I put my nose closer to my wrist but that was it. Wham bam thank you Mam. Must be skin chemistry with this one.
19th May, 2019

Thebes G1 by Sultan Pasha

When applied to your skin you get the smell of a worn leather jacket coupled with a cool iris accord. Imagine Indiana Jones all by himself approaching a ancient untouched temple in the jungle early on in the morning. As Indy enters this temple their is no longer a roof and all the stonework has been overgrown with thick green vines and tropical flowers.

As Indy is searching for something the smell of Lily Of The Valley mixes in with Indy's worn leather jacket and the iris, the cool morning jungle air can be felt giving the scent a freshness. As time goes by as Indy searches the temple, roses and ambergris can be smelled in the mix.

The scent is very sombre and meditative with that lonely vibe that you are all by-yourself contemplating the meaning of life. All in all another beautiful fragrance by Sultan Pasha. Wow!
18th May, 2019

Fougère Noire by Sultan Pasha

As the scent unfurls upon the skin you experience a earthiness like the forest floor in a dense forest. And quickly like the sun rising you get a host of complex notes all moving as one to caress your senses. Lavender, pine, lemon, amber, geranium, moss, bergamot and more. Out of this glorious swirling melange of notes rises a fantastic accord that just had me floored in amazement. (You got to remember the quality of the ingredients you experience is top notch).

This accord smells like lily of the valley, neroli and jasmine and it comes together to dominant the scent above the host of notes. It smells most glorious and amazing. I've had the scent on my skin for nearly five hours from one swipe and though the projection is soft it's still going strong. I cannot express how good this smells. Where as Etude en Fougere which is also great is a bright Fougere this one is a bit darker.
17th May, 2019