Perfume Reviews

Reviews by olfactorium

Total Reviews: 35

Sandalo by Santa Maria Novella

Now as a general remark for the SMN products ,it should be said,albeit in my personal view,but still for what it's worth,I believe many will agree that the perfumers at SMN sometimes just can't do it without soap.So many composititons contain soap aldehydes that it starts to look suspicious.So Sandalo-feminine?I would doubt.What I get is an impression of a clean,just washed(with that old school industrial washing powder) and ironed cotton shirt,being worn for some time by an old burly bloke so that it gets a distinctive amber tint and then with some strange cologne put on it which was supposed to contain sandal.And yes-where is sandal?That's pretty much the question here.Overall a fragrance that is cosy,quiet,with a kind of "I'm staying home in a robe and fluffy slippers"-character .
14th February, 2015

Kiton Black by Kiton

If you are that type of person

So this is what let me think of Philosykos!!!Ja-ha! Has the same violet/figue vibe which makes it exactly black and gives to it that kind of velvety-smooth feeling. And also a certain yummy-ness that reminds of Philosykos makes it black-ER than the original but should this characteristic be a part of a male scent? Probably if you pose yourself as such a person and find that people should like you for being yummy and smooth....ha ha ha!Would be rather wearable on a cold and clear autumn day than on a hot and sunny one.

25th September, 2013

Beyond Paradise for Men by Estée Lauder

want a bad formulation of Eau de Cartier?

So i believe the substance is called helional. It can give a lot of freshness and "cold air" feeling but if balanced right and here it seems to be a bit out of proportions,it is just all over the place and after inhaling it frequently it hurts inside my nose. The melon somewhere at the background is just not convincing.The drydown is a flowery grapefruit + "cheapy-musky" thing.Was this composed in a rush?

14th September, 2013
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Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada

When i was a boy of a very young age i used to get my father's leather cap he used to wear from the top shelf of the closet.The inside was spanned by a very smooth slik and it smelled exactly like this prada except for the terrorizing vanilla/tonka which in this prada really own the main control of the whole fragrance. And no matter how many times i got that cap and put on just to imitate my dad the insade always smelled of this ambery,slightly filthy, dark matter with a stealthy musky note and left in ruines by the time citrus notes especially bergamot. I guess the perfumer was inspired by some older fragrance that exsisted in the earlier years. You wouldnt dare to wear this prada on a hot day when the air is virtually static and the humidity is punishing. After couple of hours the vanilla/tonka takes over with not much left of that busy almost humming base of amberris and vetiver and a very tiny musc althogh the musc lingers on no matter what and boosts vanilla/tonka combo even stronger. At the end of the day i found myself being tired of that smell.It kinda deprives you of your "freedom of scent" so i cought myself being able to smell nothing but it by the end of the day.And i cant really associate this smell with any kind of occasion or style-it suites everyone but in the same time no one.It fits in every situation but in the same time you cant link any scenery to this scent in a understandable way.Although the whole idea is very pretty. Quite lively and pithy.
20th January, 2013

Armani Eau pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

How amazingly simple!!!! Yet sparkling,lively and almost sizzling like a bottle of shaken mineral water that is being opened.Made according to the logic of a common man - simple and efficient.Straight to the point kind of smell. Nothing that would make you fall into a heavy discussion with yourself just to figure out wheather you like it or not.Just like it...or not!Very 80's.Very "cologne" style.Nowdays they would consider this kind of smell something rather for a windowcleaner or toilet freshener than for a fine perfume. Includes all of those "male" ingredients: lemon,bergamot,basil,clary sage,lavender. Probably the only fragrance with an undisputably masculin lavender. Makes me quite nostalgic about the times when i was just a child and my grandfather used to wear something of this type of smell.To me this is what Dirty Harry would smell like.
09th April, 2011

Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan

-...,'s when you take "Le Male" by JP Gaultier and cut off all the tonka and vanille notes so all you have finally is a clear white musk with some flowery notes. Quite one-dimensional yet with a pretty flowery character and all it evokes is a colour white.If you are into synthetic musks and stuff..well,here you go.Not so much natural notes here.Another thing is that to me this type of perfume should not necessarily present itself in a form of EdP but rather could be found in any other cheap shower gel or a bath product.
16th January, 2011

Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

That's it!!- the original scent for a man,not for some kind of efffeminated pseudo bi modern kinda guy. Very simple-patchouli,violet,maybe even some chocolate notes but mostly the "chocolaty" effect of patchouli,and some artificial ornaments (probably woody stuff like someone already mentioned) as those are ubiquitous in all of the nowdays products. The very fact that it doesnt smell so delusionally good is exactly so brilliant about it. Why should an adult male smell good like sweet and yummie kind of stuff?
28th October, 2010

Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

go take a piece of wood slightly dried out and put fire to one end at a pointy corner bit of it and then swiftly blow the flame off so that only a thin silky thread of raising smoke remains. Wait a minute or two and the smell that piece of wood - that's a very close approximation of what this Gucci really is like. Now imagine that you've done this procedure to some woodchips of cedar,rosewood, birch, santal and put them all together - that would be the smell towards which the maker of this Gucci ,to my opinion, would want to reach. Smoky wood that would still comfort one's nose. One should rather wear it on some evening occasion.
28th October, 2010

Beau Gosse by Fragonard

Well i'm afraid that in this case the cheapness is pretty much proportional to the perfume as whole.Dominant,quite harsh masculine citrus with some herbal tints carefully accompanying it.Very cologne-style,very masculine and unfortunately quite artificial in the way that you definately can spot it even if they would swear that it's all natural.But it's true you can get hell a lot of it for a rediculous price also available as a shower product which i find much more usable.At least Fragonard is always very clear and honest about their ingredients.
16th June, 2010

Sorenza by Fragonard

That's another traditional take on a rose composition.Very smooth, creamy and dark rose as it used to be some 20 years ago.Some hints of oakmoss create an impression of a geranium motive.The whole experience reminds of those lady hydrating creams that i always saw my grandmother was using about 20 years ago.
Still the best option for the price Fragonard that is offering.I dont believe that this kind of product would be available anywhere else for such a low price.
16th June, 2010

Marescialla by Santa Maria Novella

The trick to this one is to let the thyme and herbs "to do thier job" in the opening.Yes, it's an abrasive "blitzkrieg" of thyme that makes it so masculine and probably unbearable to most noses-but that's the opening.And after 10 min or so the patchouly-horizon is in sight.Now,sometimes it is hard to bring two odour extremities in to one perfectly constructed "singularity" but here it's quite a friendly partnership between them two. It's like green on dark purple.And i get no sign of any artificial musk base or fixative-so the overall quality is pretty decent.
28th January, 2010

Gaggia / Mimosa by Santa Maria Novella

This is a glorious mimosa scent-just from the very opening-Wham! It's april in your nose! One for the springtime.
28th January, 2010

Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's

i guess of all them fruity florals for men out there,this one is the most elegant and simple.Sweetness can be masculin and here is a proof.I get oakmoss(which i always get,no matter what)a very natural one,pear and a slight touch of a lily of the valley.Sits tightly on my skin,after 1 hour still there.Being myself a big sceptic when it comes to sweet fruity scents for men,i can say that this opus has a certain dignity and elegance.If you like stuff like YSL la nuit de l'homme,switch over to this!
06th January, 2010
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Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake

them folks have been talkin'bout rubbin' tupperware and stuff into skin...Now dig this - there are some substances in nature which are called cadaverines(and are basicly some aminoacids).What they do is actually create a smell of a putrifying corps when the process is actually happening after death of a living creature(mostly a non aquatic mammal).This smell is very very distinctive and once you smelled it (at some point in your life) you will never never EVER! forget it nor confuse it with anything else.And what i'm getting with this particular Cz&S is a far away echo of a tint of that cadaverine smell - no really,it is in the middle.Ok it's not like the whole scent is putrid-not at all.But what i think the perfumer has done here is he slammed some die-hard patchouli in this fragrance which somehow in combination with grapefruit gave this very odd,kind of bitter basenote of death.Now that's what i call "a daredevil" of a perfumer.
A very original fragrance,rather on a male side than female(i really dont want to imagine any woman wearing this,and if one still does,then she must be the miss controversy herself).I also dont think a man would ever attract any positive attention from them women with a scent like this one here but rather would make them wonder what kind of a man he really is(in a mysterious way).So this scent is great but pretty much reserved for some daring and alternative-minded public.It really should be called "the Grapefruit of Death".
05th January, 2010

Gucci pour Homme II by Gucci

Yes,some more longetivity is on the wish list for this one because a beauty like that should last longer.So large,so spaceous and bright almost emitting some kind of a shine.Probably aimed to be really loved by everyone,not just represent some of that special Gucci vibe.Peaceful,a bit mellow and kind - that's what kind of personal qualities this scent projects.Violet,tobacco and maybe even marjoram do all the magic here.Once again,a very straightforward opening without all the hesperidic,spicy,nose-biting mish-mash and leads directly to the main theme.This one really stands out from the grey mass of all those posh pseudo-aristocratic model house perfumes.Deserves a try!
30th December, 2009

Réminiscence Homme by Réminiscence

Got a free sample when bought their Elixir de Patchouly(which is another story that MUST be told-people just have to know about this stuff!)Sprayed two times on a kleenex tissue and here you go.Starts off as one of those common grocery shampoos - quite artificial. I guess it is cedar that they are trying to pull out here. And this is what it remains for about 5 min-an attempt to artificially "raise" a cedar on a seashore because it got also some acrid aquatic notes in it.Nothing sweet nor fruity nor flowery about it that should deserve any attention.And this is probably what it is all about. No development to anything different.Not that it is so bad but...could be better.
22nd December, 2009

Patchouli Homme by Réminiscence

Thank God it's not the curry again! (but let this sentence not scare you off from trying the rest of them Rem's for men)Once again cedar and once again a bit acrid and artificial.A very slight development into patchouli base.I think at this point i'm starting to have a real problem with this acridness and biting artificial acid aquatic thing which i think is supposed to represent cedar but somehow just doesnt do it in a pleasant way.Because if one is still going to use it in one's creation,one should make the whole experience a bit more enjoyable at least more then in this Rem. Gone in 20 min.

Still standing on reviewing Rem's Elexir de Patchouli which is...........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (°o°) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
22nd December, 2009

Patchouli by Réminiscence

Patchouli with rum! That's what came to mind the first second i sprayed it on a kleenex tissue.Another kleenex waisted?Not at all!The whole patchouli theme is supported with a fine, elegant candy/rum-like thing which to me creates a very feminine and even kind of sexy combination.I guess if you are one of these southern,mediterranian or arabic types this will suit you so very well.Once again what makes it really good is simplicity and "everything in the right place"-style.

But wait till you try their Elixir de Patchouli!
22nd December, 2009

Antaeus by Chanel

never seen a topic with over 100 reviews! blindly bought a small bottle of this---sharp?-yes! punching in your nose without any remorse?-yes! masculine?-yes! except for the drydown which to me smells like one of those typical "oakmoss for men" kind of deeply sweet , dried black plum although not very strong but still a tiny hint of it i do detect.That's probably the only minus point about it because if we are going to speak about a "deep,plummy,dark but smooth oakmoss drydown" then it's Azzaro pour homme which is the absolute undisputed champion in this game. But leather is good.Interestingly, i must notice that apparently to Chanel,the manhood equals to oakmoss.Egoist is a convincing example of that fact.But that's my nose. The price is also kind of incoherent with the total olfactory experience one will get through with this Antaeus.Now i' m not even quite sure when and how to wear this fragrance.
19th December, 2009

Bogner Wood Man by Bogner

Just got meself a good deal for a 25ml edt +deostick.Well...all i get here is vetiver,himalayan cedar,oak moss and tonka(by now i have trained my nose with these natural ingredients well enough so no doubt about it,in any case about vetiver and cedar).Or at least that's where it all goes to in it's drydown.Quite dry,a bit sweet and without all that unnecessary citrusy mess at the start.A bit on the female side.I didn't happen to smell anything like this before and that's quite intriging even to myself. This would suit well some younger public.
18th December, 2009

He Wood by Dsquared2

as i said in one of my other comments-you've got be that kind of a guy(to like and to wear this).This is totally original albeit not so very masculin.Deep,sweet and kind of etherial in a sense that it's just a "large" scent that is not aggregated around one songle component but it reaches out in every direction.Yes,maybe vetiver is lost "in translation" somewhere on the bottom of a whole well full of Iso E Super,but if for instace you would ever hesitate between a nice,deep,woody mens fragrance of a type Calvin Klein Men and this Wood,you really should go for this because it is at least somewhat more original.
16th December, 2009

Tactics by Shiseido

Its great because it is the simplicity itself.I guess in 1979 this was quite up to date but of course will encounter very easily 101 cheap shower gels which have probably inherited this fragrance composition.Green and citrusy,the citrus ,being the main theme here,is sparkling and just slightly sharp but that's how it is supposed to be in compositions like that(or WAS supposed to be back in 1979 anyway)and once again...simple -...yet masculin which for me is quite important factor when forming my final verdict.
16th December, 2009

Miyabi Man by Annayaké

Sometimes the spirit of commerce and the power of money take complete control of the ideology and this sort of utopic striving of the artistisme and creativity to reach "a better" destination. This was launched in december 2009 obviously to compete in " the christmas shopping olympics", when all the brands make their final most tough effort to gain some cash. It's a great dissappointment! After Annayake's male scents which to me were kind of a token of the alternative japanese manner of perception and creation of things like perfumes (but not only them),miyabi man comes as another commercial clone,some kind of anti-wanna-be perfume that actually tries to be more like the "rest of them" rather than to represent something particular and unique. What is it all about? Actually i didnt even studied this smell well when i got this test strip from the store because my first impression was just "commercial bull***t!".Sweet,fruity,peary,peachy,cloying without any particular male properties.Like eating the whole pack of fruit jellies all together instead of one by one.No developement what so ever,no character and no real value.
14th December, 2009

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro

i know,there has been enough said already,but...if there's still a bit of space left for another positive review, well...For this moment this is the best male fragrance i have ever smelled in my whole life.Even forgotten about all those fragrances that i used to like and thought that them were real men's perfumes.But ApH - that's what a male fragrance is supposed to be.It is just serious and "detained" within the clearly shaped frontiers of masculinity.While so many perfumes for men nowdays tend to bind you with that special sweet female tint in a form of glorious flowers or sweet vanilla/tonka or any other redundant elements in a well scetched men's scent, ApH is just all what there needs to be and no more.And this is what i personally appreciate in it.That's why classics are forever and this one is certainly too.
14th December, 2009

Fidji by Guy Laroche

about my emotions: this has made me think of times spent in one of the former soviet countries in the beginning of the 90's.Those posh overweight ladies somewhere in their mid 30's who just happened to get this as a gift that was cosidered to be of a divine value because by that time fidji was THE french perfume for ladies.And especially during hot summers whatever governamental institution one could ever visit back there, one would encounter a sweaty, "moisty" , almost puffing with steam administrator with a body full of redundant matter stretching her clothes who would smell of fidji and just because of this still have a trace of femininity.And curiously enough that smell was ubiquitous no matter what kind of institution or commercial enterprise one visited especially during summertime.
about the perfume: to me it can not get any more simple and uncomplicated.The classics are always the best when it comes to the proportions.Everything seems to be so geniously harmonised and well orchestrated.I just didnt happen to encounter this kind of harmony in those modern female perfumes that i have sniffed so far. But still the main theme in fidji is this tropical sweaty-ness that on a woman looks incredibly attractive. If you are going to wear this, do it on a hto sunny summerday,maybe even to a beach. And from my experience i can tell, this suits any woman of any age.
14th December, 2009

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

Very curious story i got meself into with this smell.One day i was walking on the sidewalk of a busy roadway and the only guy who was walking towards me had this smell on.By that time i didn't know the smell of Fahrenheit.That guy,dressed pretty causually,even looking a bit butchy,left a whiff,a kind of light breeze of that scent passing me by and eventhough the traffic was quite intense that morning(meaning the smell of exsausts was overwhelming) i was STUNNED by his perfume(which eventually turned to be Fahrenheit obviously) like being slapped on the face."What a fantastic deep woody well "rounded-off" with a light leathery character smell" i said to myself."Nothing redundant but really the very essence of probably 3 elements tops" i thought.Some time has past.Next time somewhere on the street in the center of a busy city (somewhere in western Europe) i was CLENCHED! on my nose by this smell from again some man just swiftly passing by.And no doubt that was exactly THAT smell eventhough the first time it was all disolved in exsaust fumes being a bit deranged in the top of the fragrance structure but it's core, the basenotes, were imbedded in my memory permanently.After that, i definately started to get a bit agitated and curious about what perfume exactly it was.When suddenly,out from nowhere,my partner with whom i work together in the lab had put this on one day and made me absilutely insane with this smell eventhough he was wearing the white laboratory robe all the time.I asked him what it was but he didn't know and said that it could be one of thos free samples that he had scattered all around his place.After that i encountered this smell a couple of times more randomly on the streets of the city but never had courage to stop the man and ask him the question(always was restrained by the prejudice of "being gay"-subject while obviously i am not).After that i started to jump in each and every perfumery shop i ever saw or knew where one was situated and tried my best to describe this smell to a service woman and no one could give me a definite answer.My description was "deep woody soft".They had been giving me lots of hellish things to sniff which obviously were hard to get rid of in terms of sales but not a single one was even close to what Fahrenheit really is. When finally i came into a shop with not a very extended choice of brands but where i could serve meself by taking any tester a wanted and spray a bit on a paperstrip instead of waiting and asking and trying to explain and being dissappointed and frustrated.
To me this comes as "a cold wood on a specially handled leather" and i mean the basenotes.Somehow my understanding of a "leathery" smell makes me detect a leathery note in all this let be a very thin and modest one.I guess the best way to see through this it is to wear some kind of jacket made of "in a special way manufactured" leather(not all leather is prepaired in the same way) and have just two nebulizations of Fahrenheit directly on it..All in all - a smell that will remain in the history of perfumery as a certain milestone.Absolutely fantastic!
14th November, 2009

Acqua Colonia Melissa & Verbena by 4711

Since my previous review for this "juice" i've put my nose through some "ruff roads of smells".Now...i really didn't get what's so good about this perfume until i used it being on one of the caribbean islands where hot,thick air is occasionally cut through with a gentle waft of a seebreeze. This perfume really gets things "fresh".The simplicity is so kind of childish that i'm almost stunned by it after all those modern "mega-mixes" where you have to run through the whole spectrum just to make it clear for yourself what's so good about this particular smell and what's not. Here you do get THE verbena-no questions asked.It is just it.Dont go look for any deviations which sometimes mislead you and leave you with an abstract perfumer's art impression of some fruit or herb.A casual sweetness in this perfume might remind of black current jam or a bunch of yellow sweet clovers but is set as a basenote so it doesnt bother.Melissa is mysteriously hidden though.While a real melissa can be magicly sharp like some kind of a buzzer that wakes you up in the middle of the night even in small quantities with this perfume it is blended into a subtle reminder of melissa.Still the freshness is obvious.Rather for women but i still use it.And the longetivity is more than decent for a cologne.A generous splash can make it go through the whole day on my clothes and this is at 32°C when anything that even can evaporate just does. A valuble aquisition.
12th November, 2009 (last edited: 20th January, 2013)

Hurlingham by Atkinsons

Just got a 10ml mini of this "stuff".I actually have ever in my life used an air refresher for toilets that smelled almost exactly as this.Overwhelming lemon with some inadequate sweetness and ...wood?No way!It's just lemon lemon lemon until it settles into still lemony but now with a bit "kölnisch wasser"-ordinary character of herbs.Maybe i just got a false sample or maybe back in the 74 that was the ultimate "englisch wasser"-i dont know.As a modern man, i would accept this just as a requisite from the history of perfumery but not more.
28th August, 2009

Theorema Uomo by Fendi

This one stands in the same row as Tommy and another one from Cartier(don't remember the name).I find there coriander (apparently the only one) and vetiver.Very green and fresh.This could also be a very refreshing aftershave.
25th August, 2009

Life Essence by Fendi

Some couple of monthes later...Just given it another try, on a windowcloth in my living room. To all i have currently sniffed,this would compare as an exceptional fruity oakmoss, so sentual and profound.Once again the element of "nothing else but the very essence" of the fragrance is pleasing my nose.You just dont get through all that unnecessary citrussy-herbal intro. this goes directly to what it was supposed to be -velvet soft fruity oakmoss.I guess i have to give it a plus point for being original and meaningful because this really does represent something beautiful.
25th August, 2009 (last edited: 20th December, 2009)