Perfume Reviews

Reviews by narcus


Phileas by Nina Ricci

There is a bit of truth in in all the reviews written before, so I will just add a few comments instead of another review. For my European environment this is the ideal cologne for frequent use: versatile and fresh as a fragrance can be that isn't based on citrus, mediterranean or acquatic elements. It is different enough to get you noticed, and I have yet to meet the person who will associate it with anything from the past, maybe because it is bare of sentimental elements and reminiscences of barber shops. Guerlain haters may love it, romantics better stay away!
17th January, 2010

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

This is one of the few which I came across late and at a stage where it has been changed considerably as the experts tell me. I would still give it five stars for longevity, sillage and being rather unique. However it is one of those perfumes that needs the right environment and mood. Wearing it outdoors is fun, but after two days with Fahrenheit I will go back to spraying something less demanding for quite a while. It shares that fate with the more formal Grey Flannel. All aspects considered: three stars or four.
02nd February, 2009

Michael for Men by Michael Kors

I and whoever is near me get a lot to smell for the money, and not just for a few hours. I understand when some find this fragrance cloying. It's better not to inhale too much at a time, but used moderately and not too often this is one of the few American fragrances I can enjoy.
3 stars.
05th June, 2008
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1916 by Myrurgia

Agua di Colonia is the full name of this wonderful classical citrus. It has more longevity than is usual in this family which isn't primarily meant to perfume. I am partly reminded of Roger & Gallet's Extra Vielle, an Acqua di Parma without the rose! It would be an ideal travel companion in warmer climates.
18th April, 2008

Drakkar by Guy Laroche

Drakkar (1972) is much like Drakkar Noir (1982) minus the extra kicks from Coriander, Juniper and some pine, I find. Although the pyramids made me expect something very different, this smells like the younger(!)brother of DN. I do not get the fresh start with such aplomb as I am used to from DN, or YSL Pour Homme, and also the dry down is mellower than it is with DN, and yet it lasts about the same five hours! I do not know why it reminds me of the tender Old Spice Lime which has been missed for years. I had to buy Drakkar blind as you can imagine with a scent that is so hard to come by nowadays. Even the more am I happy with what I received in perfect condition.
I realize I would have praised DN just the same had it been unknown and hard to get until now!
12th May, 2007

English Leather by Dana

I have been sampling quite a few leather scents lately including some famous ones. I love leather notes in perfumes and bought this one blind from a vintage sale for very little. This is the old class, less sweet than often now, flowers omitted. And it is not one of those oriental leathers either. This, to me, is like an uncompromising rendition of a lasting cuiron. It's not smooth and chique like a ladies handbag. It lacks the brilliance and floral richness of Knize. But such simplicity can be a virtue! There are times when you do not want extravagance, just walk through the hills with your most comfortable boots and your favorite old leather jacket. What a find!
17th April, 2007

Escada Homme by Escada

There is nothing that this cologne can be criticized for. I simply keep forgetting that it is in my wardrobe. It would be well suited as a safe gift for the conservative man you know little about.
One could give it the attribute 'classic' which is not always positive. Aside from the beautiful bottle, I consider Escada pour Homme a boring classic!
17th March, 2007

Vetyver Lanvin (original) by Lanvin

I must state that i am perhaps not competent to dare a judgement on vetivers, as I generally only like, not love them. Perhaps Azzaro's and Carven's vetivers were not too helpful to develop a particular appreciation. I highly respect Guerlains Vetiver which I use in the summertime. But I love, really love, a small bottle of the original 1964 Lanvin Vetyver! It also has citrus, and feels just as refreshing as Guerlain's V. And there is a mythical extra with it, not really sweet, something I cannot identify. Who also knows the old 'Lanvin For Men', or d'Orsays 'Eau Fringante' may get a better idea of the romantic part. This Vetiver carries you with ease into the more relaxed after hours. It lasts well, but I might reapply in the early evening.

02nd June, 2006

Eau Pour Soi by Roger & Gallet

They classified Eau Pour Soi as suitable for women. It is a real light cologne. I do not see, why it shouldn't be suitable for the whole family. It is just another refreshment cologne spray. One I do not quite get perhaps.
Basenotes mentions a few colognes that are similarly liked by members. I would except Dorsay's Eau Fringante, and Lanvin Original Vetiver from that list. These are truly unique fragrances from the past and all time favorites of mine!
02nd June, 2006

Calèche by Hermès

This is one of the sixties, and as a few other feminine fragrances from that period my nose registers it as suitable for both men and women, by todays standards. I have given it a try, consider it a floral leather mix, very elegant and very suitable for women wearing costume, or suit.
As sometimes with older Hermes scents - I respect them more than can feel love. Lasts just well, sillage is rather controlled. I would prefer the other old coach, Equipage, any time.
02nd June, 2006

Deep Forest by Bogner

post mortem: A while ago someone asked what would be a good scent to wear in the Alps and my answer would have been: nothing! I did not know Bogner then - Deep Forest would be my answer now! If Bogner makes anything near it, this should be in every mountain freaks Rucksack. Smell to be topped by the Black Forest only.
10th November, 2005

Heno de Pravia by Gal

This is an excellent Spanish Cologne which I have regularly brought back from holidays in Spain. It has a fresh herbal character of unisex nature by todays standards. In my mind it is closest to, but a little stronger than Guerlains Eau Imperiale. The packing could be more attractive, I believe. But then it might cost quite a bit more than it does.The smallest bottle I have seen was probably 200 ml.
22nd July, 2005

Monsieur Balmain (new) by Pierre Balmain

There is lemon in many fragrances. This is lemon plain and yet lasts longer than most. That is why I love it!
16th March, 2005
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Old Spice by Procter & Gamble

It is from the days men called their perfumes shave lotion. The GI brought it to Germany and together with Wrighleys it has become synonimous for US - smell!
Much stronger stuff than the common German colognes in those days. Speick and M+W Tabac may have been considered counterparts - camouflaged as skin antiseptics!
16th March, 2005

Monsieur Lanvin by Lanvin

Fern, green, mysterious but not dark (turning a bit sour, naturally after 30+ years). I cannot part from what is left. Wish it were back!
16th March, 2005

Agua Brava by Antonio Puig

I think it could also have been called 'Costa Brava', more to do with fishermen than those aquati hilday notes of today. Better wear it on a sunny day or else the breeze may make you shiver. There are days you will love it!
16th March, 2005

Bandit by Robert Piguet

Too tempting to pass by. L'eglise St. Germain in Paris, dark light from tinted glass windows, all those candles... incense. That is Bandit for me. Quite understandably, Bandit has been classified as feminine in 1944. But it has more masculine elements in it than many modern fragrances classified as such. Enjoy its distinct absence of sweetness! I prefer the EDT version to the EDP, but both have less class than the original version available until about 1970. Therefore: 3/5.
16th March, 2005 (last edited: 12th January, 2010)

Mitsouko by Guerlain

..and a mysterious charm it has indeed! 1001 nights + 1 summer morning is what it means to me! I smell fresia mainly but they are mentioned nowhere.
16th March, 2005

Eau de Rochas Homme by Rochas

The fine balance of citrus with other classical notes makes it very pleasant: Dry Martini with lemon peel and a faint memory of Moustache. There may be more inspiring fragrances around. This one I love for the absence of sweetness.It makes me feel confident as well as relaxed like in a white shirt in summertime.
10th March, 2005