Perfume Reviews

Reviews by knit at nite

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Total Reviews: 56

Intrigue by Carven

I'm happy to have this complex chypre in my collection and need to wear it more often. It really lovely to my nose. It really doesn't smell like it was created in 1986.
23rd October, 2018

Bronze by Ellen Tracy

Nose is Pierre Negrin who has created scents from designer to Amouage and Jo Malone. Bronze on my skin has a very light citrus opening followed by slightly powdery heliotrope, which reads more like iris on me, and settles quickly into a quiet woody, nutty base. I agree totally with rogalal review in that it's not a compelling scent. But it's very pleasant, wearable cheapie that works in all weather. I also purchased a 2013 flanker Exotic Bronze blind, which is a truly dreadful synthetic fruity mess. Stick with the Original 2011 Bronze.
08th August, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca by Guerlain

I love the minty herbal grassy mix in this EDT especially in extreme heat. It smell so authentically natural and yet refreshes. It is an EDT so I don't expect it to last more than a few hours. At the price point, that's reasonable. It's still a very quality scent from a good house. As always, it's only my opinion and YMMV.
09th July, 2018
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vo·cab·u·lary : Woody by Smell Bent

I find the scents in this collection "vo.cab.u.lary" play well together as layered scents but are very monotone individually. Which is, perhaps, what the perfumer had in mind when assembling the collection of musk, citrus, green, floral, dry, woody.
09th April, 2018

Parfum Privé by La Perla

Parfum Privee is quite the old school perfume, considering it was launched in 1998. On my skin, I got a huge nose full of talcum powder for the top, then a delicate orange, prominent yellow and white flowers, sandalwood. It's very smooth and cuddly for a chypre. Can't afford La Perla's garments but this scent is very easy to wear.
02nd March, 2018

K de Krizia by Krizia

Hail Maurice Roucel for this beauty! To my nose this is a gorgeous floral aldehyde chypre top with a smooth balsamic and resinous base. I've got several backups of this lovely. So much more wearable than some of the powerhouses of the era it was marketed in, too, so smooth and cuddly.
30th October, 2017

Queen by Queen Latifah

By all the warm balsamic notes & spice in the composition I should love this. It's not bad, and it's a tremendous bargain scent but on my skin it just emits a coldness, even a little waxiness of a funeral bouquet, that makes me want to skip over it's cute little bottle when choosing my scent.
16th October, 2017

In White by J del Pozo

Neutral leaning up.

For a white floral nosed by Francis Kurkdjian, it's somewhat generic. That is not to say it's bad. It is a tremendous value in a soft, non chemical smelling, understated white scent. I personally think it's unisex. Would I buy another bottle? No, but it's nice to have a "low key" white to pick on days where some whites scents get into screechy territory. It's a mezzo, not a soprano. Nothing wrong with that.
25th June, 2017

Tocadilly by Rochas

This is one of those light scent treats with a lot of pedigree in the nose (Sheldrake) and bottle designer (Mansau). It has bang for the buck even though it's more of a cologne than a EDT in terms of longevity. Pleasant, very pleasant in warm weather. But i won't replace it when it's gone, swinging my to a neutral instead of an enthusiastic thumbs up.
As always, YMMV.
02nd May, 2017

Iced White by A Dozen Roses

Discreet faint floral, a pretty slightly soapy musk, and a nice osmanthus note sums Iced White up for me. Abysmal lasting power on me. The series has beautiful bottles, I'll give that to the designer. The juice is barely worth the $15 I paid for it, but certainly not the niche original price of over $100. 2 1/2 stars.
10th April, 2017

Birmane by Van Cleef & Arpels

A good quality blended juice and very comfortable to wear. Unisex to my nose due to the oriental / amber/ rosewood notes. foetidus nails it in his review.
29th March, 2017

Iquita by Alain Delon

The previous reviewer of 11 (11!) years ago said it was perfect for Carmen Miranda. LOL. Clearly the perfume world did not knock itself out running after this scent. But, I need to pull this neglected bottle out more because it just works as a comfy pretty scent for me. The box of my EDT says my bottle was made in Switzerland. My impression of Iquita is more toned down than a full blown Carmen, maybe a Swiss miss channeling her inner Carmen in a fresh spring meadow. LOL

Yep, this(discontinued) EDT is fruity but without overwhelming the nose with sugary notes, so I think that's a good thing. I get plum, bergamot, tart raspberry and some citrus with a gentle woodsy/orrisy/musk in the base.


28th March, 2017

Elf-Fulfilling Prophecy by Smell Bent

Smell Bent is an underrated little niche house with a lot of change up in creations. I believe this is discontinued.Elf-Fulfilling Prophecy is a delightful warm scent. When the perfume oil warms on the skin, the tobacco note laced with cinnamon is absolutely smooth as silk and soft as cashmere.

25th November, 2015
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5th Avenue NYC by Elizabeth Arden

On my skin, EA 5th Avenue NYC was synthetic from top to bottom except for a nice jasmine note, which lasted all of a New York minute. This scent is showing up on discount store shelves for very low prices, but even if they gave it away it's not for me.
22nd October, 2014

Dune by Christian Dior

Jean Louis Sieuzac's Dune

The nose for Dune, Jean-Louis Sieuzac, also created such iconic scents as Opium for YSL, Bel Ami for Hermes, Oscar for De la Renta, and Fahrenheit, also for Dior. On my skin, Dune in the woman's marketed version in EDT concentration is dry herbs, non-cloying florals, precious woods and resins baked in the hot sun. The blending of these components is magnificently handled.
Compared to Opium, oversprayed by women everywhere when it was introduced, Dune is downright subtle in its presence. It's a keeper for those who are patient enough to let it evaporate fully on your skin and let the magic happen.
14th July, 2013

Noontide Petals by Tauer

Modern twist on floral aldehyde

On my skin, Noontide Petals is a bright feminine scent with 8 hour longevity from 1 large dab or two sprays. As mentioned in other reviews, it has a vintage feel due to the aldehydes. But in Tauer's creation, the aldehydes are a sparkling uplifting mechanism that results in the composition having a feeling of sunshine. The artistry is that the aldehydes do not make me feel like I've been attacked with a can of AquaNet hairspray, as the creations of the midcentury scents did. Smells divine and expensive (which it is).

Pros:
Cons:

09th June, 2013

L'Eau Neuve (new) by Lubin

A mossy citrus aromatic of high quality and versatility. Smells mossier in cooler weather, more herbal in the heat. Very unisex.
03rd May, 2013

Ivoire (new) by Pierre Balmain

I'm very familiar with classic Ivoire. On my skin, the opening of the re-worked Ivoire was really very "pretty" and reserved. There's gallons of "pretty" out there so I was thinking this wasn't boding well for the first 20 minutes. I was thinking they really "modernized" Ivoire beyond recognition on behalf of all the aldehyde- phobes who associate the classic Ivoire's punchy top notes with a different era in perfumery (and avoid said era because it takes patience for the top notes to settle before the magic happens).
However, suddenly I was heartened! The familiar and beautiful heart of Ivoire emerged and lasted through the drydown.
Longevity was a good 8 hours for me.
I plan to pick up a a backup bottle of the original before it disappears but this does the house proud and I will eventually add this version to my collection, I'm sure. Thanks to the skill of the noses in this reworking, I did not have to re-neg on my current feeling towards this House "I never met a Balmain I didn't like".
04th April, 2013

Enchanted Forest by The Vagabond Prince

This is a neutral review with the thumb climbing ever so slightly up. I was lucky enough to be gifted a sample. This is definitely a scent to clearly illustrate the difference between dab and spray.

Dabbed- I smelled fir balsam, fir balsam, and did I mention fir balsam? A very refined balsam, but I got nothing else. Not very exciting.

Transferred to a atomizer and sprayed: It transformed to crisp Blackcurrent, a little booziness, and finally (you got it), fir balsam.

The effect was a little like drinking a ribena syrup with seltzer, or some fruit wine in a deep forest. I enjoyed it enough to use every drop of the sample but it didn't move me emotionally at all. I would love to smell this on a musky man. I think muskier skin would really amplify the character of the scent.
Your mileage may vary.
04th April, 2013

Wonderstruck by Taylor Swift

Wonderstruck- I was not. But it is quite wearable, better composed and more balanced than some other celebrity scents I've tested, thanks to the nose Olivier Gillotin (who composed one of my favorite fig scents -Cristobal by Balenciaga). Wonderstruck has a touch of a fine-boned, feminine elegance, stays close to the skin and has 3-4 hour longevity on my skin. Although I won't be buying a bottle for myself, it was really nice to test a celebrity scent that had a little more sophistication than the usual ilk.
14th August, 2012

Allure Homme by Chanel

To my mind, this is one where all the money went into the topnotes, which are a beautiful citrusy peppery blend. But that phase is very fleeting on my skin- the remainder feels so synthetic and chemical. Such a shame.
06th August, 2012

Vallee des Rois by Mira Takla

OOPS! - I added this to the directory too fast. It was launched in 1988- not 1998.

I came across this beautiful big floral-oriental by accident on a vacation while browsing in Harrods in 1995 and it was love at first sniff! Travel budget smashed with no regret. When I tried to buy VDR again, it had been discontinued. After a worldwide internet search, I managed to located one more bottle from a lovely lady in England. This is the one I'd save in an earthquake.
VDR is a big scent and could easily overwhelm- but I LOVE it in the "my eyes roll back in my head" type of way. I even love the kitschy blue glass bottle with gold Egyptian touches.

I realize this is more fawning than an actual review of the notes. I'm not good at separating floral notes. When I smelled Chergui for the first time in 2009, I thought the heart has some resinous similarity to VDR. In fact Chergui is the only scent I've come across remotely similar to VDR. Yet, the primary focus in VDR is big flowers first, morphing into resins, finally spices.
VDR has fabulous longevity and sillage, as is typical of an 80's powerhouse.

Mira Takla is apparently an British Egyptologist of some repute. Why she decided to market a perfume is anyone's guess. If she's got a case of VDR stashed in her basement, she's one lucky woman.

19th July, 2012

Selena Gomez by Selena Gomez

Here's my take on Selena Gomez EDP, after sampling a few times.
Ay dios mio! Selena Selena, this stuff is nuclear- potent. Also cloying (almost got a head ache and that hasn't happended to me since the Opium and Halston era). Surprisingly, in the way young people usually describe bombastic style scents as "old lady perfumes" this rather fits that bill. I'm a little surprised it got past the marketed age focus group- no, a lot surprised.
Notes I smelled- First there are the uber-sweet berry notes. Rasberry? Blackberry? "And Dewberry" said the nice SA, it's "Dewberry". I believe I've smelled this note in body sprays, candles and Glade plug-ins. Apparently Dewberrys make super sweet pies and are easier to grow than Blackberries. The berry strength in this product is just so...did I mention nuclear?
Then the chocolate hits and I get "Angel". For me that's a worse dealbreaker than smelling like a pie. It's taken me years to make peace with the real stuff. Guess Selena's fans like Angel too- they picked the notes, per the marketing campaign.
None of the other notes came out to play with me. The drydown mellows but it is mostly a continuation of the top/mid. Longevity on my skin was an impressive 9 hours.
Overall, this EDP breaks no new ground but if you like very very sweet berry and chocolate gourmands, you might like this first offering from Selena Gomez. The EDP would be great in winter but for summer, an EDT version would be welcome. It gets a neutral from me, because it made it through the testing process without scrubbing and I'm not really a gourmand fan. For berries I'll stick to Trish McEvoy Blackberry & Vanille, Molinard Mure, or Silences Purple.
19th July, 2012

Pear + Olive by Slumberhouse

Notes: pear, cognac, chamomile, aglaia, olive, zdravets, massoia bark and calamus

Zdravets is geranium oil from cranesbill geranium.
Aglaia is chinese perfume plant. Also a greek goddess, and the given name of my mother's cousin. However, when she was a young'un (in the 1930's) and being teased by her peers over her name (who taunted her with "ugly- a" she changed it to Ida- because she liked the popular song of the era "Ida....sweet as apple pie-da". But I digress majorly...sorry..

The slumberhouse guy apparently is not motivated by fame and fortune because I couldn't even find Pear and Olive for sale on his own website. I acquired mine on parfum1.com (no affiliation).

Limk to blog where perfumer discusses creation of scent: http://slumber33.tumblr.com/post/234...#disqus_thread

I can't do any better than he does in capturing the mood of this simultaneously soothing yet stimulating creation. Pear & Olive skillfully captures an organic aesthetic and has a luminosity and sweetness which is not "green" in the sense of my usual green fave like Silences, but it's very green in the spirit of conjuring up a sense of place and experience at one with the natural world. And despite having several "edibles" in the composition, I would not classify it as a gourmand.

This luminosity distinguishes Pear & Olive from the other, always interesting, slumberhouse scents I own or have sampled- the overall house offerings are much darker and resinous (not a bad thing) but this one's lighter feel makes it more wearable for me as a daytime scent.
On my skin, longevity is 6-8 hours, the projection is very minimal. YMMV.


08th July, 2012

Shanghai by Marc Rosen

I've had this in my collection since 2009 but in preparing for the Friday sync of "forgotten scents" in your wardrobe, dug this out of hibernation.
Shanghai is intoxicating, not cloying as it warms on skin. The normally citrus opening of bergamot has got to be tempered by the smidge of green apple(and it's more of a perception than picking out the green apple note).
This Cinnamon note is very shy on me, I can't pick it out. As it dries down the osmanthus and deep plum come out and of course, the PATCHOULI waved hello as soon as the spray left the nozzle. The base is an Ok woodsy amber- not as exciting as the transition between top and mid.
A beautiful bottle- the weight of it and feel of the glass in your palm is lovely and satisfying. The cap to me is not as nice as the bottle. One of the plastic appendages broke off soon after purchase.
Overall, a big positive for a grownup fruity floral that transitions well from day to night.
One note about the juice, which is a gorgeous red color. I think avoiding clothes spraying with this one might be wise as it might stain.
31st May, 2012

Pur Désir de Rose by Yves Rocher

Attributed by two sources to a nose with an impressive body of work, Annick Menardo, who might have created this for Yves Rocher in 2002 with a wink. This is light yet spicy rose EDT is certainly unisex, and arguably gourmand.
Wearing this, I can imagine sitting in the sun at a table set out on a field. Everyone is wearing white and sipping rose flavored tea & munching spicy tea cakes- even the dudes who just finished playing sports on the aforementioned field. We smell good.
25th May, 2012

Eleftorea by Bourbon French Parfums

Eleftorea (Freedom) is a lovely lemon, bergamot blend morphing into an ever so slightly powdery musk. Not so powdery that it can't be unisex, though. One of the highlights of the not insubstantial Bourbon French Perfumery line.
15th May, 2012

Art Collection #09 by Jacomo

Jacomo Art Collection # 9 (Echo: #9, #9, #9) Sorry I couldn't help it- Starting over.

The top orange pulp note, for a brief second, reminded me of Byredo Pulp but the spicier notes of cinnamon and sandlewood keep it from being as candy sweet as I recall Pulp. I really don't get mango but I never do when it's listed. The dryness, blending & basenotes render #9 an entirely unisex oriental with an overall sophisticated feel (not an OTT 80's style). As mentioned in previous review, absolutely beautiful drydown.
Jacomo is a house I respect and their scents, generally work well on my skin. To sniff the 3 scents in the Art Collection, I acquired samples from the Perfume Court. Of the trio, #9 sings on my skin and I immediately ordered a 100ml tester very reasonably on-line after depleting my sample.
I am a little surprised this is only the 2nd review on BN for #9 (Echo #9 ---OK, I'll stop now.)
Sniff in good health, all.
18th April, 2012

Cologne du Maghreb by Tauer

It's cologne after all, so don't expect big sillage and longevity. But it's a cologne of a shimmering,resinous balmy composition- in the Tauer style. Thumbs UP.
Louslice's review is very comprehensive. I'll just add that I'm grateful to the person who sold me their unloved bottle.
16th April, 2012

What We Do In Paris Is Secret by A Lab on Fire

Wonderful stuff, just not my style except- Yeah, this would be a mighty fine scent for doing "secret stuff" in Paris. Not a huge amount of contrast in this one but it's overall blend of lightness and cohesion is lovely. It's on the sweet side, but not high pitched or screechy. Also is not so sweet as Tauer's Carillon Pour Un Ange (for example) to my nose. The honey stays through the development on my skin but never renders it into a pastry. I give it a thumbs up for the superb perfumers art.
02nd April, 2012