Reviews by heynow

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    heynow
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    Helmut Lang Men by Helmut Lang

    One of my favorites - the review by HDS1963 is right on. To my nose HL is all about the heart, which comes together as a blend of jasmine, heliotrope, vanilla, and sandalwood. On first sniff this may appear to be a buttery vanilla musk, but over subsequent experiences the depth and subtleties really begin to show themselves. I've been wearing HL for years and I'm finding out new things about it every time I smell it - it's that well done. The EdC lasts a very long time, and in many ways I find it superior to the stronger EdP because the topnotes aren't as potent and forceful. An excellent fragrance that is sadly discontinued.

    16 October, 2009

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    Fahrenheit Absolute by Christian Dior

    A great job by Dior to reinvigorate the original Fahrenheit with the 'in' notes of today while remaining true to the original formula and feel. The opening is recognizably Fahrenheit minus the strong gassy note and a cumin/spice/myrrhe note grafted on top. These spice notes give way to a light incense, again with the original violet accord lurking underneath. Incense eventually is joined by a hint of oud, and the oud and incense persist and become the base of the fragrance as the violet and 'original' aspect of this fragrance disappear. The oud is definitely there, but it's hardly front-and-center, but rather serves as a dark, woody contrast to the sharp frankincense. All in all I get at least 7-8 hours of longevity. The sillage is roughly equal to that of the original, perhaps even slightly less. A great fragrance worthy of hunting down, even if you're not a big fan of Fahrenheit.

    03 October, 2009

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    Private Collection Jasmine White Moss by Estée Lauder

    I first whiffed Jasmine White Moss when it first came out and wasn't that into it, so I put my sample away and sorta forgot about it. I just dug it out the other day and I'm glad I did! Wow! Not sure why I didn't like this the first time I sampled it, but it goes to show that you can *never* dismiss a fragrance after a single sampling. If I dismissed scents after an intial bad-impression I would have so many of my favorites... you just can't judge something the first time you try it.

    To really understand JWM you need to be familiar with some of the vintage Estee Lauder fragrance on which JWM is obviously paying hommage to. Private Collection, White Linen, Aliage, and Azuree are vintage Lauder chypres and I detect hints of all of them in JWM. In classic 60s/70s chypre fashion there are restrained citrus notes, subtle white florals, a slug of galbanum, and a subtle mossy/woody background. I love oakmoss and mourn its disappearance from modern perfumery, so for me to appreciate whatever is creating the mossy notes is a big statement. This is pretty much the only modern chypre that actually smells like a chypre - in fact I'd swear there's real oakmoss in here. Each one of the classic Lauder chypres I mentioned has one unique note or accord that distinguishes it (i.e. Aliage's peach, Azuree's leather, etc.). Lauder continues this tradition with the gorgeous jasmine note that overlays the floral chypre structure. The jasmine note is rich, sweet and downright beauitiful, and the mossy/woody background balances the jasmine perfectly.

    In response to Asha's excellent review, I absolutely see the similarity with Chanel Cristalle EdT and would go so far as to say that JWM is a sweeter, modern version of Cristalle. If you're either not a fan of, or not familiar with, classic floral chypres then you're likely not going to either understand, appreciate, or enjoy Jasmine White Moss. This will likely only appeal to more sophisticated and experienced noses. It's most definitely wearable by guys but would be beautifully feminine on a lady. I'm going to explore buying myself a bottle.

    JWM is a HUGE success - as a modern chypre and as a fragrance in general.

    27 September, 2009

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