Mitsouko Eau de Toilette:
Dry, delicate and refined.
Starts very fresh and tangy, a hint of citrus. Then, the pure and refined rose-jasmine accord shines in and is beautiful and enigmatic.
The classical Eastern Vetiver and Agarwood dominate the base, accentuated with a clean and dry patchouli, and there is just a hint of oakmoss and a warm, animalic labdanum note at the base. The warmer notes of the base grow on you bit by bit, but always stay very mellow, as the centre of the stage is that enigmatic, sweet&sour Japanese Agarwood, and the dry or moist vetiver root. The drydown posseses only a hint of the ambery-vanilla Guerlinade accord, and is mostly a classical, well-refined woody Chypre.
It makes you feel like you are floating in air and at the same time is very grounded. Itís like forgetting yourself while playing classical music (probably from the romantic period ñ Tchaikovskyís Seasons comes to mind..), being reminded that you are still in the room by the scent of the old wooden piano...
I find the EDT very refreshing and light, and perhaps will have a better diffusive power in the summer. I also think it will smell lovely on a man. Mitsouko has a very natural scent and creates an aura of enigmatic serenity.
Mitsouko Eau de Parfum:
Starting up with rich citrus accord that is strongly backed up with the enigmatic vetiver and agarwood Mitsouko theme.
The overall impression is a clean, yet rich and intense scent, somewhat powdery, with lavender and orris notes.
This fades quickly, to be taken over by an interesting bitter peach-like note, which brings to mind the feeling you get when you crack the peach core, and the little bitter almond flavour emerges along with the dry woody aroma of the seed, and blends in with the pink sweetness of the not-yet-so-ripe (but full of aroma) fruit!
The texture overall is that of an under-ripe peach skin, very velvety but somewhat shivering to your touchÖ But you touch it anyways to feel the Summer arrivingÖ
But also of the dried peach, wich posesses a rich and somewhat bitter aroma, and is not as sweet as the fresh fruit.
These notes are enticing, full-bodied and very refined. Definitley not for everyoneís taste, and they take a while to get accustomed to and be fully enjoyed and appreciated. This unique and lovely peach accord is subtly backed up by the notes that make Mitsouko the wonderful Chypre it is:
Vetiver, Sandalwood, and a very modest (just the right amount) of patchouli to make the scent warm but not heavy. These notes politely invite themselves in, to accompany this interesting gathering of notes that are both Eastern and WesternÖ
The notes intermingle with each other so harmoniously and so beautifully that by this time it is hard to tell one from the other for a whileÖ You just give yourself up to fully enjoy the experience and the big mystery behind itÖ
It brings to mind a wild desert windÖ And at the same time acts in a most refined and cultural manner.
It is luscious and almost convinces you that it is delicious and fruityÖ But does not rise up your appetite at all.
Itís a perfume for the sake of perfume, not worn for any other reason but to appreciate this original orchestration of counterpoint and intermingling resonances.
Full of mystery and subtle nuances, it is a perfume to meditate uponÖ
The rose and jasmine accord at the heart is now much more subtle, and is immensely deepened by a higher amount of the woody vetiver and agarwood, and dry allspice and some other earthy spices that remain a mystery... Once the intense and overwhelmingly mysterious overture is over, the curtain lifts and reveal the mystery that intensified the experience so far: woody base of vetiver and agarwood accompanied by no other than the musky spice of sweat-like-smelling cumin seed!
These will gradually make some room to the base of oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum, but will still dominate Mitsouko. This drydown is essentially similar to that of the EDT, only that it is a bit rounder and creats a more soft and pervasive aura which is more musky and earthy (where as the EDT is a lot less pronounced and is fresher all the way through), and after a while turns into a more pronounced jasmine-vetiver accord.
Mitsouko Parfum Extrait:
The mere act of opening the brown illustrated case where the lovely art nuveau flacon resides is an experience on its ownÖ
It brings you back to times and places long forgottenÖ It is just like pulling out an old violin out of its case, to play the most sentimental Sonata (in the romantic, passionate and most realy meaning of the word). The flacon itself, with its stylized, curled stopper, brings to mind a string instrumentÖ
As for the scent ñ it is close to that image so much, that I will now be sahmelessly repeating the matphor of the Mitsouko fragrance to that of an old wooden instrumentÖThere is something fascinating about it, almost like time that stoppedÖ like visiting an old museum-house and hearing the voices of history whispering from the wallsÖ
The brown colours of the packaging definitley represent the scent very well. It forever remains earthy, woody, and very brown in tones.
I find the final drydown of the parfum very similar to that of the EDP: dry and fresh and woody, and once you get really close to it, there is an interesting grassy resonance of jasmine and vetiver.
Mitsouko speaks in a silent and subtle langauge, that cannot be heard by all. I feel it represents a persona of restrained passion and always keeps certain distance ñ as if not willing to fully reveal itself even when intimately worn as a ParfumÖ
It is not a knock-off, super-soft or even in the least sexy or seductive, as you may expect from such a concentration.
I find it very hard to grasp. Itís a fragrance that needs to be worn in very specific moods, when you can totally tune into it. Even than I always feel like there is a lot I do not understand about it.
Overall, I find the EDP to be the softest and most interesting of all the Mitsouko variations, especially I enjoyed the surprising cumin note! It makes it warmer and more sensual than the other variations.
10th March, 2005