Guess it had to happen since so far everything I've tried from the house of Bogart has ranged from the merely good to downright superb - at some point they had to let me down. Looking at the pyramid you can erase the top notes entirely, never got a whiff of either, incense? Erm, no. not a single wisp of the smokey stuff on me. Drop to the basenotes and cut away all but the thinnest hint of vanilla and what you have left is a big ass synthetic floral mess jammed up both nostrils by the pink nailed fists of a pack of teenage girls drenched in whatever Britney, JLo or Taylor is shilling at KMart this week. Unisex? Are you kidding me? Coco Chanel's great grandmother would have taken a pass on it and now I'm going to go splash some gas on me to get this off.
No idea what those negative reviews are about since this "all-over refreshing tonic" takes the best of the original and turns it into the most wearable warm weather scent I own. The flankers? All of them seem more like copies of one facet or another of this with Homme Sport in the silver bottle coming the closest. Even the tonic's bottle represents Chanel's sophistication better with it's lightly frosted glass and raised lettering.
If you hail from the planet where volcanos smell a lot like stale ceder shavings found in an ancient crank handled pencil sharpener pulled from a dusty back shelf of a long closed curio shop then, yes, this one is for you. I gave it one star for the bottle which at least hints of creative thought but that's about the start and finish of it. Lasts for three or four hours if you get the fabric of your shirt wet with it.
A spicy oriental, not as dark or rich as #1, but no less interesting. The trademark Ungaro topnote of lavender is there mingled with lemon and basil supported by a sharp pepper/ginger accord that winds down smoothly to a base of patchouli and civet. It's not exactly a close to the skin scent but doesn't shout it's arrival, either. Like the other two in the series it reminds one of the more common Chanel fragrances but is just quirky enough to stand out on its own. Shame it had to succumb to the all powerful bottom line.
Perhaps the most refined and seductive of the three Ungaros, #1 is a classic Oriental Fougere. It's a very dark and opulent fragrance that begins with lemon and lavender and settles into a smooth musk and amber base hours later. Formulated by Jacques Polges, it seems as if he wanted to create something a little darker and more complex than he would have been able to do for Chanel.