Perfume Reviews

Reviews by DuNezDeBuzier

Total Reviews: 141

Moschino pour Homme by Moschino

Moschino pH: spice, leather, moss, amber, resins, with a bit of cedar. The amber is dense and pungent, not syrupy and sweet. It all comes off as a solid, low-broadcasting, scent that a professional type might wear while doing professional type stuff.

Moschino overlaps moreso with Fetish pH <parfum> which overlaps moreso with M which overlaps moreso with BelAmi <older vintage>... to me. This grouping is top shelf and satisfies this guy like no other.
16th April, 2018

Black No. 1 / Blackbird by House of Matriarch


Take some Black Afgano, Puredistance M, Bulgari Black, Interlude, and L'air d'Marocain. Mix together and give a good shake. Would it approximate the smell of Blackbird? Dunno, but I've thought about it.

Blackbird has its ashy, amber, and oily aspects (e.g. think small machine lubricant... hair clippers, sewing machine, dremel tool, etc.) all coming together to form a long lasting, simple, linear leather that is downright appealing. Slumberhouse-esque, I think.
21st March, 2018

Bois Farine by L'Artisan Parfumeur

If I were a baker my kitchen would have many trays holding the many rising dough balls that would later become my world famous peanut bread. Tubs of freshly slivered almonds and my signature amaretto glaze complete the scene. Bois Farine. The baker owns a bottle but rarely wears it. And when the baker is informed that the master JCE is responsible for both this one and Santal Massoia, he just grunts an unenthusiastic 'that figures' and goes back to baking his world famous peanut bread.

09th March, 2018
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Bois Bourbon by Decennial

Spicy sweet booze, dry cedar, and dark rose. A bit jammy, perhaps, but certainly not annoyingly so.

Decennial was apparently created (c.2012) to house just the 4 celebratory scents re LuckyScents' 10 year anniversary.

Glad I sprung for a bottle. Different scents for sure, but I keep it next to Idole edp... same vibe/feel... ideal for night-out, fun-time, with a touch of class.

24th February, 2018

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

My comments relate to a 2009 edp, tall bottle, gold cap.

I've grown to appreciate many masculine orientals as special occasion fragrances (e.g. Tiffany for Men, Rochas Lui) and not really suited for office/every day wear. Heritage is one of those.

The overall vibe is one of a primed cedarwood humidor, sans cigars, itself encased in a subordinate powdery vanilla. There's an animalic accord (castoreum would be my guess) throughout, however (other than the arguable assault of an open) that bit is largely noticeable only upon close-up sniffs. Classy and sophisticated. Longevity is good, projection/sillage low.

I believe someone once commented that Heritage is perhaps one of the best uses of vanilla in men's perfumery. No argument here.

Originally posted in edt reviews - 10/16/2016
22nd February, 2018

Knize Ten Golden Edition by Knize

I bought a big bottle of K10GE blind because of my appreciation for regular K10 in all its petroleum leather, jasmine-like floral, and amber glory. To me*, they're close enough to each other to be considered the same scent. Similar performance as well. Mine are all coded CH17### and earlier, presumably much too old to be affected by the presumably relevant birch material restrictions of IFRA 47 taking hold c.2013/14.

*For sure there are those that tend to focus on differences when comparing scents. If you're wired in that way, well YMMV. Me? I focus on similarities.
24th January, 2018

Oud 27 by Le Labo

Dry, dusty paper or parchment scent for most of the wear. Long lasting. Office appropriate if worn under clothing.

Oud? I'd say much closer to the dry & parchy Firmenich Oud blend variety (e.g. Kilian Pure Oud, Dior Leather Oud) rather than the somewhat sweet & peppery Givaudan Black Agar variety (e.g. Bond Harrods Swarovski, TF Oud Wood). Synth just the same. I am not negatively sensitive to barnyard smells... and would not consider Oud 27 overbearing in this regard at all. YMMV.
18th January, 2018

Jules by Christian Dior

Jules is one that straddles the fougere and chypre categories. It's green to the extreme in a high-pitched, bitter, twiggy manner. Galbanum? Certainly! Cyclamen? I don't know but perhaps it's responsible for Jules possessing such a unique smell. Big mossy leather and cedarwood completes the scene.

Jewels for lumberjacks... or, at least, that little bit of lumberjack essence wired into a lot of us!

Older the better with this old school, though all pre-IFRA43 are A-OK by me. A personal top-ten I think, would say, and without any doubt have obviously just wrote.
17th January, 2018

Balenciaga pour Homme by Balenciaga

Anyone else own any masterpieces they hardly ever wear?

Attached to a backbone of honey, moss, and amber there's such an attractive subtle smell of citrus and spices dancing about this oriental. After years of smelling these things I've got to say this is one of the best... but I gravitate towards the mossy leathery chypres I've always liked for the day-to-day and have grown weary of anything with much of a honey element. There are exceptions to that last bit, especially if complex and well made, or possessing some other mitigating factor, and this is one of those. Great to have in the bullpen regardless... Put me in coach!
17th January, 2018

Furyo by Jacques Bogart

Yo! Furious fur here. Good indolic jasmine and a nag champa like incense come across similar to honey. Civet, castoreum, and/or those indoles? Surely something is responsible for its growl! Amber too, and it's one peculiarly attractive oriental. As with other Bogart offerings, Furyo is a great scent to reach for when a 50lb sledge hammer is the right tool for the job. When more refinement is required I reach for Balenciaga pH.
17th January, 2018

Arrogance Uomo by Arrogance

Arrogance Uomo

Not 'pour homme', not 'man', but 'uomo'. My bottle I've had for years now is dated to '89 <thx xmen!>. I get herbs and moss, moss and herbs. So much moss.

There seems to be a confusion with this one and, admittedly, it might just be mine. My perception seems so different to others'. Perhaps there've been significant recipe changes, maybe the mix is beyond what little deciphering ability I possess, or maybe my bottle is just showing its age, I don't know. No citrus, floral, sweetness, animal or leather to speak of, just herbal/moss prominence on vetiver/patchouli background and maybe a little dusty amber. Old school, definitely. Reminds me of a less polite, lower-toned, lower-pitched version of R de Capucci with less vetiver... a good office scent as well.
14th January, 2018

Yatagan by Caron

Herbal. Prominent pine and patchouli. A little castoreum. Yes, there's a celery salt, celery seed, or mustard type flair that only adds to its character.

Fanatics would also dig Phileas and Les Copains Homme, I think.
12th January, 2018

Tabac Original by Mäurer & Wirtz

White 300ml edc bottle.

Citrus, aldehydes, tobacco, lavender, the masculine floral trinity of carnation, geranium, and rose? Sure. It all says 'well-groomed' and at <$3/oz is a great deal for a great light splash that'll last a satisfying few hours.

When I desire something similar yet with a little more heft and with an additional leather and moss character, I reach for Dunhill for Men. Tabac Original = Dunhill for Men lite!

11th January, 2018
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L'Homme Sage by Divine

Excellent as they are, these awesome gnummy ambers are simply not my kind of fragrance. I own a bottle and it's been nineteen months since my last wear. No matter, I don't wear LdDM much either but that doesn't mean they aren't fantastic.

L'homme Sage smells great and lasts for absolutely ever. But it is powdery sweet! Super sweet! Almost annoyingly so. They say there be immortelle, which usually comes off as everlasting maple syrup to me. Thankfully, that doesn't appear in this mix. Maybe it's the lychee note, something else, or some combination. Hard to put a finger on it exactly. It's not a candy floss or pungent fruit sweetness, rather it's the linear type sweet of aspartame or other artificial sweetener. Add some body heat and there's cloying risk that can be downright suffocating despite the pleasant smell - been there, done that with this.

Does a wise man fit the scent to his ways or does he adjust his ways to fit the scent? I have some thoughts but, regardless, I'm rather sure that a wise man loves smelling this one on his lady!
11th January, 2018

Secret Mélange by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

I like clove, bay rum spice fragrances but the orange, neroli aspect of Secret Melange is almost too much to bare. It does settle down and therefore it moves into neutral territory for me but that opening is cringe worthy, so actung baby!

I will add this: I mix my own and have a few keepers I group as 'dirty orange'; I hold Kouros, Orange Spice, Tobac 1800, and even Paco Rabanne and Kiehls musk (because of the musk, I believe) in such high regard and share similar threads in the fabric... degrees of separation, if you will. They work, some spectacularly so; Secret Melange doesn't so much.
10th January, 2018

Havana by Aramis

Blue Bongo Drum AND Gentlemen's Collection

First off, these two iterations are similar enough to one another. The price differential in the secondary market suggests otherwise, but my nose stands its ground. Next, Havana is similar enough to Montana parfum d'homme, not as much citrus through the heart but I've got to side-by-side in order to tell. (I'll 'put my money where my mouth is' as the saying goes... just PM).

They all ride a strong, sturdy backbone of bay rum. If you don't like strong spicy clove, then forget it. Citrus and tobacco may just be part of the supporting cast (as well as just about everything under the kitchen sink according to some pyramids) but it's all about a form of spicy bay rum to me.

I keep these bottles next to things like PS Fine Cologne, Shulton Old Spice, and my bay rum.
10th January, 2018

Royall Bay Rhum by Royall Lyme of Bermuda

Bay rum is bay rum is bay rum is bay rum. Yep. This IS bay rum. I'm halfway through a 4oz bottle I paid a little <$5/oz a while back. Not THAT much better than Pinaud's offering that can be had for a $fraction$. Thinking too hard about things like bay rum just hurts my noodle... so I don't!

Imagine peppered clove juice.
10th January, 2018

Cuir by Lancôme

Saffron with a nice styrax and leather backbone; it all comes off as a polite, soft, dense suede. It’s a little doughy. Low sillage, quickly become a skin scent, but it’s resinous, mixes well with personal chemistry and hangs around.

Cuir de Lancome reminds me of a new-smell suede jacket I bought decades ago from Bermans Leather, “the leather experts” and quintessential mall specialty store. I really liked that jacket. Every time I watch Pulp Fiction with Butch hopping those fences, trying to be invisible, creeping his way back to his pad to grab his watch, I think of that jacket. Memories and scent!

CdL is rather simple. It's not your typical russian leather like, say, Aramis or Bandit.

Montale Aoud Leather and Al Haramain Red Jafran oil (very strong) have a similar saffron. Chanel CdR les exclusif edt and CdL share a similar styrax leather base and feel, as well.

My bottle is from '07; I assume industry restrictions affecting styrax related material will hurt this one.
09th January, 2018

Méharées by L'Erbolario

Vanillary, a little powdery orange, cinnamon, and perhaps a little clean musk to it that gives it enough of a masculine lean. An attractive comfort scent. I’m a big fan of MR, find MR more complex and the two different enough to own both, but yeah they do share a lot.
08th January, 2018

Centaure by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Whoooaaa boy! This one starts smelling a lot better once it stops kickin’ and settles down.

Upper bod man/lower bod horse? Is that what they were thinking <lol>?

From another site:
Orange, mint, petitgrain, lemon
Black currant, lavender, fir, jasmine, neroli
Musk, oakmoss, vetiver, tobacco

Hmmm. It all comes off kind of like a strawberry jolly rancher that’s somehow lost most of its candy sweetness. I sense quality, but this simply holds no appeal to me as a masculine scent. Not at all my style… perhaps better suited for fans of things like Roma Uomo, Picasso Minotaure, Creed SMW, or Caron L’Anarchiste.
08th January, 2018

Cabochard by Grès

Cabochard’s a green, twiggy, russian leather, with an attractive hint of spicy floral like geranium or carnation. I find the leather to be similar to the petroleum type of my favorite, Knize Ten. Underrated, perhaps, and surely a bargain these days. Man or woman if you like Bandit, Aramis, so on and so forth… Russian Leather, yes!
08th January, 2018

Dehn Al Oud by Al Rehab

Catcher's mitt leather. These Al-Rehab roll-ons... maybe not diamonds in the rough, but when you find one you like, well it's simply TITS!
08th January, 2018

Catalyst for Men by Halston

Yes, nutmeg & cloves. Cloves & nutmeg. So many of the ones I like most have either or both these notes. I perceive Edition far better for this type scent re quality and performance however Catalyst is great when the flannels come out and the schedule involves less formality than say office work. Like a cudgel flanker. A good value at around $5/oz and the moisture providing quircky green after shave is great. I suggest going old. It's a favorite dumb reach.
08th January, 2018

One Man Show by Jacques Bogart

Take Signature from the same house (a standard russian leather type)... add a bit of conifer. It all vibrates as masculine spice.

Great value. Safe blind buy. Real close to Quorum. They're all good to me.
03rd January, 2018 (last edited: 11th August, 2018)

Tribute Attar by Amouage

Another admirer. Smoke, leather, and tobac kind of like what you get in a good strong lapsang souchong tea at remarkable density. It's not meaty though. Flowers or incense? Perhaps, but in this mix they don't pop for me.

An absolute favorite.
03rd January, 2018

Labdanum 18 / Ciste 18 by Le Labo

This is a vanilla. It dances to the tune of Shalimar, as well-noted before. Labdanum 18 carries a similar dough-ee facet and I get a very appealing castoreum note thumping throughout (provided you're allowed intimate proximity to the wearer!).

Like Shalimar, this type scent is perfect on a lady. I prefer a more masculine overall feel, however, when I reach for an oriental. Say like with Heritage (cedar), Third Man (carnation / lavender), Opium pH (resin / spice / dark fruit) and Musc Ravageur (clove / musk). Personal idiosyncrasies for sure.

Too fem for me but I've gotta say, one of the best smelling, quality scents from this house. A great gift to give... and, yes, as is Shalimar.

A final thought: perhaps fans of Amouage Gold pH would like LeLabo 18?
03rd January, 2018

Quorum by Antonio Puig

I like big moss and leathers. I like the idea you don't have to drop a benjiman or two to smell simply like what a simple manly man might care to smell like when wearing his joe-six-pack, dumb-reach cologne from day to day and throughout those days.

Differs to One Man Show by degree of soap and I don't have issues with soap. I once had a deep vintage but don't feel it necessary, however I'd definitely suggest going pre-IFRA 43 (i.e. moss restriction c.2010 or so) with these types if you can.

Awesome value. Not one to overthink.
03rd January, 2018

Bogart by Jacques Bogart

"Is it safe? Is it safe?"

If you feel the ole' skewl IS the best skewl, if you like the twiggy, the non-floral, the no-candy-nonsense of the typical russian leathers (Aramis, Bandit, etc.) then "it's safe, it's very safe, it's so safe you wouldn't believe it."

Go old. Seems readily available and economical so no marathon chases or giving up one's eyeteeth... for the blind buy.
03rd January, 2018

Aoud Lime by Montale

I've had a 100ml for years now. Bought blind along with Black Aoud. Dare I say this one is stronger. I never got much lime... more of a rose, maybe not a virtual juicy big red as in BA, but primarily a rose, synthy oud scent just the same, and somewhat less attractive. Rubs me rather neutral. Strong and interesting is OK but upon a wear if I start wondering whether I'd appreciate the experience moreso if I'd sprayed it on my ankles under socks rather than the torso... well, there it is.

03rd January, 2018

Hard Leather by LM Parfums

Not dissimilar to Nasomatto Black Afgano, though not quite as strong and it sports a patchouli/amber facet remindful of Mazzolari Lui.

Dense, woody, resinous, incense. Lasts forever like Black Afgano as well. Leather? Sure, of the styrax variety of which I'm a fan but my mind doesn't go in that direction when I wear these types. It just smells good, is pungent and non-floral with no candy-sweetness.
31st December, 2017