Perfume Reviews

Reviews by DuNezDeBuzier

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Total Reviews: 78

Aramis by Aramis

A Winston Wolf fragrance. While frequently proscribed by the Sir Topham Hatt figure of this particular virtual neighborhood for some time now and commonly eschewed by the cherubs, the more time I spend with various russian leathers the more I value what Aramis provides; spice, herbal, bitter, green, with slight birch smoke.

If a scent could commandeer...

p.s. My bottle is of the 'cologne spray' and I find a lot of similarity to Bandit.
04th January, 2017

Bel Ami by Hermès

NASTY GATEKEEPER: Halt! Who would cross into the Realm of Contentment must answer me these questions three, ere the other side he see.
DNDB: I have paid great sums in coin and effort in my journey to this point. I am not afraid. Ask away!
NASTY GATEKEEPER: What is your name?
DNDB: My name is Buzier, humble fragrance enthusiast from the Land of Lincoln.
NASTY GATEKEEPER: What is your journey's quest?
DNDB: Unsure at times, it ended up that I was searching for the Holy Grail of spicy, masculine, leather chypres.
NASTY GATEKEEPER: What did you find that has so satisfied your notion of the ideal?
DNDB: Bel Ami, in it's earlier iterations, of course! Now quit taking up my valuable time and allow me to pass!
NASTY GATEKEEPER: Right. Off you go.
DNDZ: Oh... well thank you. Thank you very much!
20th December, 2016

Idole de Lubin by Lubin

Oh I'm fond of rum. On the hottest of days, capt. morgan and coke gets gulped. Then there are the rums I treat like scotch whisky, enjoyed in wee sips.

Fine rum overlaying SL Serge Noire, which I'd say is rather like clove cigs & chapstick ... and voila... Idole edt. Good evening and Autumn scent. Maybe 6 hours with subtle projection that invites closer attention. A fine date scent.

The bottle, along with the edp, are the 2 best-looking cologne bottles I believe I'll ever own, and the scent does do justice. Keepers, both.

I'm 50+, for reference.
19th November, 2016
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Baque by Slumberhouse

This. This tobacco. This is what I wanted to come out of my SL Fumerie Turque bottle.

Frog Morton - On the Town (Latakia) pipe tobacco in the tin some dry dusty hay and some prune. What's that? The pyramid says apricot? haha OK then, apricot it is.

Brilliant and simple.
08th November, 2016

Clubman Special Reserve by Pinaud

If you're a man interested in masculine scents... drop a few bucks on this one and keep it by the sink where the shaving gets done... you know, right alongside the 4711, the Tabac Original, the Tabacco 1800, the Old Spice, and your favorite bay rhum. If you grow weary of it, pass it along to a family member.

Some things needn't be thought too much about and this is one of those.
24th October, 2016

Héritage by Guerlain

My comments relate to a 2009 edp, tall bottle, gold cap.

I've grown to appreciate many masculine orientals as special occasion fragrances (e.g. Tiffany for Men, Rochas Lui) and not really suited for office/every day wear. Heritage is one of those.

The overall vibe is one of a primed cedarwood humidor, sans cigars, itself encased in a subordinate powdery vanilla. There's an animalic accord (castoreum would be my guess) throughout, however (other than the arguable assault of an open) that bit is largely noticeable only upon close-up sniffs. Classy and sophisticated. Longevity is good, projection/sillage low.

I believe someone once commented that Heritage is perhaps one of the best uses of vanilla in men's perfumery. No argument here.
21st October, 2016

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

"Give me 1 ping and 1 ping only!"

Great novelty scent. Less is more... especially if vanilla, no matter how well done, is but a toleration rather than a celebration. More sprays for the Ladies? Sure, but it's a cloying risk.

There are masculine tobacco scents I find more appealing, versatile and inexpensive as compared to TV, however, every so often there's nothing quite like a spritz under that favorite baseball cap bill, thick wool sweater, etc., to accompany a walk through autumnal woods, pipe or cigar in hand and dog at my side.

I'm only familiar with pre-2010.
16th October, 2016

YSL pour Homme Haute Concentration by Yves Saint Laurent

Designed as a more intense version of its older brother, my unremarkable nose finds nothing noticeably stronger with HC or dramatically different between the two. HC carries more of a spicy, soapy carnation note (remindful a bit of Versace L'Homme) and its masculine edge is not quite as sharp... but the closest thing to HC is YSL pH and vice versa.

Sure it's a good lemon/herbal masculine on its own merits, but every time I wear it I have wandering thoughts as to why I just didn't spray YSL pH instead.

My bottle of YSL pH HC is one of the non-detachable black cap versions, post-2005.
18th September, 2016

YSL pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

A lemon masculine that lasts plenty long. The older the better. Mine are the red caps. Pairs well with lemon verbana soap. Pretty much the standard in classy lemon masculines. Not to be overthought.
16th September, 2016

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka

Au Masculin.

Today, while enjoying a chunk of black licorice 'tween cheek-n-gums like I like, I took out my three bottles of anise-minded fragrances for a spin. First off, if One has a problem with black licorice... One should stay away from these. Here are my other thoughts:

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin - Powdery synthetic vanilla and anise from the start. There are bothersome sour and floral facets as well. Strong and linear. It all wears this black licorice fan down... much in the same manner this tobbaco fan cannot find the appreciation for The Dreamer. No matter.

Reglisse Noire - Mint and pepper are there up-front with the prominent anise which lasts throughout the rather fleeting heart and is noticeably supportive in the exquisite vanilla drydown. Classy. A very nice evening scent.

Piper Nigrum - Mint and anise are there up-front supporting the prominent pepper. The pepper is there throughout, with clove and other spice, even into the resinous vanilla-incense drydown. Much more pepper than anise, but still.

Sure, there are a ton of other black licorice / anise fragrances. These are my first three and I think I've drilled deep enough. Two outta three ain't bad! They shine bright in early Autumn.
03rd September, 2016

Réglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers

Reglisse Noire.

Today, while enjoying a chunk of black licorice 'tween cheek-n-gums like I like, I took out my three bottles of anise-minded fragrances for a spin. First off, if One has a problem with black licorice... One should stay away from these. Here are my other thoughts:

Reglisse Noire - Mint and pepper are there up-front with the prominent anise which lasts throughout the rather fleeting heart and is noticeably supportive in the exquisite vanilla drydown. Classy. A very nice evening scent.

Piper Nigrum - Mint and anise are there up-front supporting the prominent pepper. The pepper is there throughout, with clove and other spice, even into the resinous vanilla-incense drydown. Much more pepper than anise, but still.

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin - Powdery synthetic vanilla and anise from the start. There are bothersome sour and floral facets as well. Strong and linear. It all wears this black licorice fan down... much in the same manner this tobbaco fan cannot find the appreciation for The Dreamer. No matter.

Sure, there are a ton of other black licorice / anise fragrances. These are my first three and I think I've drilled deep enough. Two outta three ain't bad! They shine bright in early Autumn.
03rd September, 2016

Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi

Piper Nigrum.

Today, while enjoying a chunk of black licorice 'tween cheek-n-gums like I like, I took out my three bottles of anise-minded fragrances for a spin. First off, if One has a problem with black licorice... One should stay away from these. Here are my other thoughts:

Piper Nigrum - Mint and anise are there up-front supporting the prominent pepper. The pepper is there throughout, with clove and other spice, even into the resinous vanilla-incense drydown. Much more pepper than anise, but still.

Reglisse Noire - Mint and pepper are there up-front with the prominent anise which lasts throughout the rather fleeting heart and is noticeably supportive in the exquisite vanilla drydown. Classy. A very nice evening scent.

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin - Powdery synthetic vanilla and anise from the start. There are bothersome sour and floral facets as well. Strong and linear. It all wears this black licorice fan down... much in the same manner this tobbaco fan cannot find the appreciation for The Dreamer. No matter.

Sure, there are a ton of other black licorice / anise fragrances. These are my first three and I think I've drilled deep enough. Two outta three ain't bad! They shine bright in early Autumn.
03rd September, 2016

One Man Show Gold Edition by Jacques Bogart

A true Jackovasaurus of a fragrance. Loud and annoying. Not to be confused with OMS, Quorum, Bogart Signature or others of that ilk.

True, this statement is more about this reviewer's perspective than on the juice. So... sorry, not sorry.

For anyone out there that appreciates One Man Show for the undeniable masculine it is and enough so to pursue all things with OMS in the name, don't bother. There are no similarities. Gold Edition is sweet. Before getting rid of it, I grouped it along with others I deemed 'those not to be taken seriously', like Joop. Now, obviously, given the dozen or so positive reviews here, there's a following for this type man's fragrance. I just can't imagine a situation or environment where I'd want to smell it on me or other guys. An attention-getter with all the subtlety of a strobe light.
27th August, 2016
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Fuel for Men / DK Men by Donna Karan

From one of those silly top-heavy bottles... I get a Bulgari Black type fragrance with a nice and subtle boozy leather / fruity tobacco note.

Classy. I'd be one of the first to admit that those silly bottles usually have silly prices to match. Silly is as silly does!
25th August, 2016

Kolnisch Juchten by Parfums Regence

To me this is mostly about dry powdery frankincense and a smokey petroleum-esque leather interpretation. Was it talc that shot out the sprayer? It is so dry.

Linear, close to the skin and average longevity.

Quirky in a goth sense and not very versatile unless you're into that, I'd think. Upon my last wearing, Pictures of You came on the radio. Perfect scent pairing, I thought. Just perfect.

Nothing to get all worked up over, however if you like and find uses for scents like, say, Patchouli 24 or HdP Petroleum then steppin' off the beaten path for this one might just be worth the effort.
21st August, 2016

MCM 24 Evening by MCM

Think of a well-constructed fougere from yester-year. Then think plum and civet in noticeable portions. That is MCM 24 Evening to me.

Not a powerhouse and it'll wilt away to nothing in no time at all when worn in heat and humidity. Works especially well when the pace slows down a bit.

Curiously superior in every memorable aspect to its "Morning" counterpart.

At times the plum will give me a tobac sensation much like the fruit/cherry in Blend 30 does so.

If someone offered up this same well-constructed scent, turning up power and longevity from a 3 to, say, about a 9... perhaps it'd be an absolute favorite.
17th July, 2016

A*Men Pure Coffee by Thierry Mugler

There are those that deplore A*Men.

There are those that appreciate all the mugler patchouli/choco-centric offerings and will tell of the various nuances among and between them all.

And there are those that are just OK with all the offerings and will say they do not reflect enough toward the particular name (i.e. here -> not enough of a coffee accord in Pure Coffee) and simply don't differ enough to justify owning more than one.

I'm of the last group. I choose Pure Malt, but just by a wee dram.
13th July, 2016

Beaver (original) by Zoologist Perfumes

Sometimes I wonder if we're all smelling the same thing, or whether my beak is broke... ever wonder that?

Beaver is a delightful light, whispy, ozonic, airy floral. It reminds me of a bed linen spray I once used. It's polite, floral, and much too fem for me. Yes, it seems to be anchored with a bit of animalic musk and ashtray but that bit's all so close to the skin that I really have to go digging to sense them. Further, these accords serve to round off the edges of an otherwise sharp floral. It all seems to have been done well and is pleasant enough, but in the end I look to wear things more classically masculine and the linen spray association is a distraction.

My expectation of a musky/castoreum-prominent mix with all the heft and density of something such as Kiehl's was wildly off mark. Makes sense, as the intended interpretation is that of the Beavers' typical surrounds rather than specifically of Beaver (castoreum). This, I think, is what I'm conceptually at odds with -- give me something like 60:40, musky animal to floral and not the other way around at what seems 90:10, and pursuit would be much more likely.

So, as it is, Zoologist's owner has candidly expressed low sales of <original> Beaver and a reformulation is now available: less ashtray, added some leather, modified the floral and musks. Understandable.
07th July, 2016

Oud Stars : Zafar by Xerjoff

I like stinky cheese. Upon first spritz, and for about 5 minutes, Zafar reminds me of how much I appreciate a good bluecheese. Soon enough, that thought is replaced by peppery oud, the likes of which is the truest representation to the scores of oud oils I've collected from the who's who those in the BN oud forum continually suggest when sample inquiries surface.

Close to $8/ml. This is a 1 or 2 spritz fragrance tops, with marginal projection and longevity.

Nevertheless, if you like this kind of scent, this is a good one to like. The best spray oud I know.
06th July, 2016

Leather Oud by Christian Dior

Seemingly simple blend of well-worn horse tack type leather (ala Aoud Cuir d'Arabie), oud and honey.

Its pungent sweetness can prove irksome with more than but a couple sprays, which is quite sufficient for my taste.

Afterthoughts:
- unsurpassed, into-the-next-day-type longevity, making it ideal for road trips when showers cannot be taken for granted.
05th July, 2016 (last edited: 12th September, 2016)

Montana Parfum d'Homme (original) by Montana

To echo, parfum d'homme shares a lot of overlap similarities with Havana. Perhaps some of its molecules are a little lighter and more excited than some of those used in Havana, I don't know. Both are great and rather interchangeable.

If some current perfumers were challenged to reinvent a modernized version of Old Spice, perhaps one of those efforts would end up smelling kinda like Montana parfum d'homme.

A few years back I was fortunate to acquire two big ugly bottles at about tree fitty an ounce. Now that's a value... one of the best I ever had.
03rd July, 2016

Anucci Man by Anucci

Jasmine. A little soapy, a little chalky, with no indoles in sight. Not a bad scent but too fem for me. Befuddled by the golf association -- Que?

Edit 1 to add: A little pixie stix kind of tart in the drydown, close to the skin. I'd like this on a lady. Teetering towards the positive.
01st July, 2016 (last edited: 03rd July, 2016)

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

Dark choco, patchouli and jasmine. Perfectly done. A keeper.
01st July, 2016

Patou pour Homme (original) by Jean Patou

Thanks to a long time BNr, I'm fortunate to have a decant of special PPH. I sense clary sage / oakmoss with cinnamon / patchouli / amber blended to what any self-respecting gent would or should want to smell of. I swear one of my kid's pediatricians used to smell of PPH way back when, like a million bucks in a crisp clean labcoat and worthy of the memory space, evidently.

An end-all-be-all? Perhaps for some... BUT, along with a few others like Bel Ami, Derby, Jules, Arrogance Uomo, Monogram, Or Black, Blend 30 and so on from yesteryear, definitely deserving the mention.
30th June, 2016

Loewe para Hombre by Loewe

Masculine herbal citrus on a bed of confident optimism. I don't know of a better office scent.

The older the better; yellow juice is outstanding and the green stuff is still pretty good.

It doesn't remind me of anything.
28th June, 2016

Captain Molyneux by Molyneux

Out of ignorance, I went for the edt/as tandem in the clear bottles that can be had for less than a sawbuck. I do believe THIS ruined it for me, regardless of iteration.

First off, I'll point to darvant's fine review with its specific mentioning of Captain's anisic character. It's pervasive. With the current version, that's all I get... cheap and synthetic smelling anisic water. Truly among the worst. I tossed those bottles.

But far too many enthusiasts hold the earlier versions in such high regard. So, when enough of the 1oz vintage bottles interestingly (peculiar-wise) began surfacing in the secondary market, I gave the vintage form a shot. No bueno. Sure, it's fuller, rounder, a little mossy, and just feels like it's a much better composition leading to a much easier idea of what many identify it to be: a barbershop aromatic fougere. Unfortunately, the anisic character is there and I just can't shake the association to the current iteration.

I'm ok with a little black licorice / anise, certainly with vanilla in things like Reglisse Noire for a gormandy lark and definitely in other masculine fougeres like Azzaro pH and Charles Jourdan un Homme. Perhaps it's simply the way it's used in Captain that puts me off. Sans the anise, Worth pH is preferable.
26th June, 2016

Arden Men - Sandalwood by Elizabeth Arden

My current version (2007), while not a bad scent, has been an expensive loo freshener. Sharp, strong and not worth the effort if the primary interest is sandalwood.
22nd June, 2016

Eau des Îles by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Raw, rough, bitter, non-gourmand, roasted coffee, vetiver. Enjoyable enough on the whole but for quite some time into its heart there's an annoying burnt sugar/caramel over-roasted coffee waft from time to time... and only real noticeable when I sniff too close. Applying away from the nose solves that.

Exotic and masculine.
13th June, 2016

M by Puredistance

An oriental spin upon one of the very best spicy leathery chypres classics I've ever smelled... Bel Ami.

Did this cheap bastard pay full retail? Why yes, yes he did!

When one reads "The one that renders all others obsolete" or other such nonsense, one is inclined to roll one's eyes. I've read as much about M, not once but a few times, and my orbs stayed put. M smiles at perfection and perfection smiles right back.
08th June, 2016

Urban Musk by Tom Ford

Start at Kiehl's take 2 steps towards MKK and a step toward MR. Or is it 2 from MKK towards MR and 1 towards the Kiehl's? Or 2 to the Kiehl's after taking 1 from MR towards MKK? In any event I think if you like any of those there's a good chance you like, liked, or might very well like Ford's Urban Musk. I paid about $2/ml for a 50ml bottle and am glad for it. It's gone, discontinued.
06th June, 2016