Perfume Reviews

Reviews by DuNezDeBuzier

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Total Reviews: 95

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens

First freeze? Trees giving up their leaves? Wanna take a break from your BFF leathery mossy chypres? Well then, it's time for tea! Yep, a little tea with your ginger.

Tea, cinnamon, ginger, and honeyed amber with a slight dash of pepper. The ginger eventually bows and leaves the light but not the stage, so if you have problems with ginger...

Turn that SL calendar page and you'll find Serge Noire. Apply some chapstick and enjoy a clove cigarette. Similarities abound.
10th November, 2017

Eau d'Hermès by Hermès

Coppertop.

Think eau sauvage with notable cumin-like spice. Tight sillage and weak longevity at a distance, but it lasts plenty long as a 'second skin' depending on weather and/or what you're doing while wearing it. One of the standards in masculine citrus scents.
08th November, 2017

R de Capucci by Roberto Capucci

Dry, herbal, mossy chypre from the 80s with a touch of Italian seasoning. Refined. Mossy. Did I say mossy? I liken it to one man show dialed back by half... and more mossy. It shall forever be associated with mr. duckfinder, in gratitude.
07th November, 2017
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Monogram by Ralph Lauren

Somewhat a betweener with early Chaps (original) and Equipage... lavender, powdery musk, spicy carnation, moss.

Given my highest regards for vtg Polo and Chaps, I chased after a couple minis then a big bottle of Monogram. Worth my effort. Yes, it's definitely an old school 'what a young Charles Bronson might smell of' type scent.
05th November, 2017

Chaps (original) by Ralph Lauren

Old Skewl. A favorite while knock'n around the house on weekends. Musky. A little powdery honey. A little baby's butt ambrette. Go vintage. Messy splash!
04th November, 2017

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro

Among my favorite aromatic fougeres ever. Barbershop. Anise is well-blended. Versatile. Outstanding value. I know pre-2010. FUNCTIONAL. Wet shaver in his 50s here.
02nd November, 2017

Knize Ten by Knize

THE standard in derivative petrol-chem leathers. Gomma, Cuir Mauresque, Tobac Blond, Cabochard all overlap in ways however there's nothing quite like K10. I've smelled it but once on someone else... a cop. Befitting. Respect.
01st November, 2017

Harrods Swarovski Crystal Oud Edition by Bond No. 9

My only Bond and at that just a decant (which still did not bring it into the realm of reasonable value, with its over-the-top vessel and all) however...

This is a good scent.

Sparkly vetiver much like the vetiver/nutmeg/sage character of Mona's Vetyver. Synthetic oud takes second chair. A dollop of shave cream ala Ford's Italian Cypress. Some pepper and resin. It all comes together. Unisex. Very attractive.
30th October, 2017

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

"IF I WERE KING OF THE FOREST"*
-If I were King of the Forest, Not queen, not duke, not prince.
-My regal robes of the forest, would be satin, not cotton, not chintz.
-I'd command each thing, be it fish or fowl.
-With a woof and a woof and a royal growl - woof.
-As I'd click my heel, all the trees would kneel.
-And the mountains bow and the bulls kowtow.
-And the sparrow would take wing - If I - If I - were King!
-Each rabbit would show respect to me.
-The chipmunks genuflect to me.
-Though my tail would lash, I would show compash
For every underling!
-'f I - 'f I - were King!
-Just King!

When the cowardly lion belted this one out in '39, little did he know it'd be borrowed 78 years later to illuminate the sheer awesomeness of a men's fragrance released in '81.

Well, there it is.

Kouros IS King! King Kouros!




* sung by Bert Lahr, music - Harold Arlen, lyrics - E.Y. Harburg. From The Wizard of Oz.
28th October, 2017

Le Dandy by D'Orsay

Boozy. More specifically, fruit boozy... plum boozy.

I much prefer over similars Nicole Miller & Carlos Santana (apple boozy), Michael (tobac boozy) all 'for men'. It edges out Frank #2 too, with its ambery as opposed to frank's woody drydown -- otherwise, these two share a whole lotta overlap in the open and heart.

Top hat & tails? The old stuff perhaps, but my re-intro'd silver-capped 100ml bottle doesn't come off as outdated, in contrast with that style of dress and the term 'dandy'.

Nevertheless it's a lark fragrance I'm glad to have found.
18th October, 2017

Vermeil for Men by Vermeil

Old school boozy tobacco and a close enough dna-match to Davidoff '84, yet for a $fraction$. Arguably one of the best values I've come across while searching. Like that there are still houses like Bogart, Puig, Azzaro, etc...? Well, Vermeil is one of those. Not meant for overthink.

An observation that made me chuckle and that sums it up pretty well: "About Vermeil for Men -- Vermeil for Men is a masculine fragrance by Vermeil." LoL, Nailed it!
12th October, 2017

Dehan Al Oudh Al Malaki by Surrati

Ah, yes. A lil' sumpin' for those of us with little to no motivation and/or financial where with all (if we're being honest) to chase after artisan oud oils. Damn the purists... this stuff is good enough for me!

Earthy, leathery, woody, pungent.

They say it's their 'famous pure camboudi agarwood. Pure, buttery, and long lasting...'.

All I can say is I like the earth/leather/wood backbone common across most all quality oud oils, artisanal and non-artisanal alike, I've smelled. This is all about just that.

Funny, the bottle has an attractive rose etching - I get none of that, not even a trace. There is a bit of dried fruit like dates, perhaps, but no floral.

A few years back, I bought two at around $50 apiece. Good buy!
23rd September, 2017

Jean Pascal by Jean Pascal

Interesting indeed and indeed the power of persuasion is strong with this one I think.

Sour and dry grassy herbs, primarily, in an attractive masculine way. Lesser portions of warm spice, lavender, and something like non-royal pineapple? Sure.

Unique. A mix of Yatagan, Third Man, Bijan, and Ungaro II bits and pieces, I'd say, though at higher pitch and sour... makes the back of my jaw tingle. Not powerful. No animalic growling. Average longevity, at best.

It's la bamba. It's dick dale and the deltones. It's summer heat baking you in a fav hawaiian shirt, cargos, and wayfarers. It's camillo villegas lining up a putt, spider-style.

Based on contents labeling, I assume my 4oz bottle is pre-'05. Few years back, got it for a little over $6/oz which is an absolute steal. Undelay, undelay, arriba, arriba! Another keeper.
17th September, 2017 (last edited: 24th September, 2017)
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Rume by Slumberhouse

I've got the early small cubed bottle. And, along with Jeke and Baque, it's a favorite from the line.

Rume conjures up thoughts of Thanksgivings past and Bottlecaps candies (specifically the root beer) the neighborhood penny-candy store used to sell decades ago.

Mulled apple cider replete with cinnamon sticks, cloves, nutmeg, fruit peels; a big bowl of lumpy cranberries in sauce; collections of dried-fruit potpourri throughout; and a couple season-appropriate candles throwing from distant corners of a house out in the country where the dogs roam free.

I use Rume like it were a patchouli oil. One or two sprays to the sternum, tops.
20th July, 2017

Or Black by Pascal Morabito

Another fan. The earlier reference to Kolnisch Juchten rings true. I also sense a lot of overlap with the sour green petrol bits in Dior's Fahrenheit. Good longevity.
09th July, 2017

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

Another northbound thumb.

I don't wear it often but will probably always have an early iteration bottle (pre ifra-styrax restriction)in my stable.

Well-worn lawnmower replete with caked clippings slowly composting away. Sour. Honeysuckle. Summer wear appeal.

My nose, oddly perhaps, identifies overlap in its non-floral structure with Or Black.
09th July, 2017

Kiehl's Original Musk by Kiehl's

Cannot be overrated.

Simply, in proper quantity it's a 2nd-skin type scent, so close to the skin... whether using the edt, oil, or body lotion form. I find the edt to be a bit more floral, hints of lily and rose maybe, so I keep it to just a few sprays. I find the musk favorably similar to what is in MKK or Urban Musk and not that of the 'white' laundry detergent variety.

Since 2011 I've tried to use the SOTD feature to this site as much as possible. Over perhaps an overly zealous journey, at one point having close to 500 bottles in collection, I've worn this one more than any other... by secretariat-like margins. The perfect 2nd skin when I don't particularly want to smell like cologne.
29th May, 2017

Aramis by Aramis

A Winston Wolf fragrance. While frequently proscribed by the Sir Topham Hatt figure of this particular virtual neighborhood for some time now and commonly eschewed by the cherubs, the more time I spend with various russian leathers the more I value what Aramis provides; spice, herbal, bitter, green, with slight birch smoke.

If a scent could commandeer...

p.s. My bottle is of the 'cologne spray' and I find a lot of similarity to Bandit.
04th January, 2017

Bel Ami by Hermès

NASTY GATEKEEPER: Halt! Who would cross into the Realm of Contentment must answer me these questions three, ere the other side he see.
DNDB: I have paid great sums in coin and effort in my journey to this point. I am not afraid. Ask away!
NASTY GATEKEEPER: What is your name?
DNDB: My name is Buzier, humble fragrance enthusiast from the Land of Lincoln.
NASTY GATEKEEPER: What is your journey's quest?
DNDB: Unsure at times, it ended up that I was searching for the Holy Grail of spicy, masculine, leather chypres.
NASTY GATEKEEPER: What did you find that has so satisfied your notion of the ideal?
DNDB: Bel Ami, in it's earlier iterations, of course! Now quit taking up my valuable time and allow me to pass!
NASTY GATEKEEPER: Right. Off you go.
DNDZ: Oh... well thank you. Thank you very much!
20th December, 2016

Idole de Lubin by Lubin

Oh I'm fond of rum. On the hottest of days, capt. morgan and coke gets gulped. Then there are the rums I treat like scotch whisky, enjoyed in wee sips.

Fine rum overlaying SL Serge Noire, which I'd say is rather like clove cigs & chapstick ... and voila... Idole edt. Good evening and Autumn scent. Maybe 6 hours with subtle projection that invites closer attention. A fine date scent.

The bottle, along with the edp, are the 2 best-looking cologne bottles I believe I'll ever own, and the scent does do justice. Keepers, both.

I'm 50+, for reference.
19th November, 2016

Baque by Slumberhouse

This. This tobacco. This is what I wanted to come out of my SL Fumerie Turque bottle.

Frog Morton - On the Town (Latakia) pipe tobacco in the tin some dry dusty hay and some prune. What's that? The pyramid says apricot? haha OK then, apricot it is.

Brilliant and simple.
08th November, 2016

Clubman Special Reserve by Pinaud

If you're a man interested in masculine scents... drop a few bucks on this one and keep it by the sink where the shaving gets done... you know, right alongside the 4711, the Tabac Original, the Tabacco 1800, the Old Spice, and your favorite bay rhum. If you grow weary of it, pass it along to a family member.

Some things needn't be thought too much about and this is one of those.
24th October, 2016

Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

My comments relate to a 2009 edp, tall bottle, gold cap.

I've grown to appreciate many masculine orientals as special occasion fragrances (e.g. Tiffany for Men, Rochas Lui) and not really suited for office/every day wear. Heritage is one of those.

The overall vibe is one of a primed cedarwood humidor, sans cigars, itself encased in a subordinate powdery vanilla. There's an animalic accord (castoreum would be my guess) throughout, however (other than the arguable assault of an open) that bit is largely noticeable only upon close-up sniffs. Classy and sophisticated. Longevity is good, projection/sillage low.

I believe someone once commented that Heritage is perhaps one of the best uses of vanilla in men's perfumery. No argument here.
21st October, 2016

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

"Give me 1 ping and 1 ping only!"

Great novelty scent. Less is more... especially if vanilla, no matter how well done, is but a toleration rather than a celebration. More sprays for the Ladies? Sure, but it's a cloying risk.

There are masculine tobacco scents I find more appealing, versatile and inexpensive as compared to TV, however, every so often there's nothing quite like a spritz under that favorite baseball cap bill, thick wool sweater, etc., to accompany a walk through autumnal woods, pipe or cigar in hand and dog at my side.

I'm only familiar with pre-2010.
16th October, 2016

YSL pour Homme Haute Concentration by Yves Saint Laurent

Designed as a more intense version of its older brother, my unremarkable nose finds nothing noticeably stronger with HC or dramatically different between the two. HC carries more of a spicy, soapy carnation note (remindful a bit of Versace L'Homme) and its masculine edge is not quite as sharp... but the closest thing to HC is YSL pH and vice versa.

Sure it's a good lemon/herbal masculine on its own merits, but every time I wear it I have wandering thoughts as to why I just didn't spray YSL pH instead.

My bottle of YSL pH HC is one of the non-detachable black cap versions, post-2005.
18th September, 2016

YSL pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

A lemon masculine that lasts plenty long. The older the better. Mine are the red caps. Pairs well with lemon verbana soap. Pretty much the standard in classy lemon masculines. Not to be overthought.
16th September, 2016

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka

Au Masculin.

Today, while enjoying a chunk of black licorice 'tween cheek-n-gums like I like, I took out my three bottles of anise-minded fragrances for a spin. First off, if One has a problem with black licorice... One should stay away from these. Here are my other thoughts:

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin - Powdery synthetic vanilla and anise from the start. There are bothersome sour and floral facets as well. Strong and linear. It all wears this black licorice fan down... much in the same manner this tobbaco fan cannot find the appreciation for The Dreamer. No matter.

Reglisse Noire - Mint and pepper are there up-front with the prominent anise which lasts throughout the rather fleeting heart and is noticeably supportive in the exquisite vanilla drydown. Classy. A very nice evening scent.

Piper Nigrum - Mint and anise are there up-front supporting the prominent pepper. The pepper is there throughout, with clove and other spice, even into the resinous vanilla-incense drydown. Much more pepper than anise, but still.

Sure, there are a ton of other black licorice / anise fragrances. These are my first three and I think I've drilled deep enough. Two outta three ain't bad! They shine bright in early Autumn.
03rd September, 2016

Réglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers

Reglisse Noire.

Today, while enjoying a chunk of black licorice 'tween cheek-n-gums like I like, I took out my three bottles of anise-minded fragrances for a spin. First off, if One has a problem with black licorice... One should stay away from these. Here are my other thoughts:

Reglisse Noire - Mint and pepper are there up-front with the prominent anise which lasts throughout the rather fleeting heart and is noticeably supportive in the exquisite vanilla drydown. Classy. A very nice evening scent.

Piper Nigrum - Mint and anise are there up-front supporting the prominent pepper. The pepper is there throughout, with clove and other spice, even into the resinous vanilla-incense drydown. Much more pepper than anise, but still.

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin - Powdery synthetic vanilla and anise from the start. There are bothersome sour and floral facets as well. Strong and linear. It all wears this black licorice fan down... much in the same manner this tobbaco fan cannot find the appreciation for The Dreamer. No matter.

Sure, there are a ton of other black licorice / anise fragrances. These are my first three and I think I've drilled deep enough. Two outta three ain't bad! They shine bright in early Autumn.
03rd September, 2016

Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi

Piper Nigrum.

Today, while enjoying a chunk of black licorice 'tween cheek-n-gums like I like, I took out my three bottles of anise-minded fragrances for a spin. First off, if One has a problem with black licorice... One should stay away from these. Here are my other thoughts:

Piper Nigrum - Mint and anise are there up-front supporting the prominent pepper. The pepper is there throughout, with clove and other spice, even into the resinous vanilla-incense drydown. Much more pepper than anise, but still.

Reglisse Noire - Mint and pepper are there up-front with the prominent anise which lasts throughout the rather fleeting heart and is noticeably supportive in the exquisite vanilla drydown. Classy. A very nice evening scent.

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin - Powdery synthetic vanilla and anise from the start. There are bothersome sour and floral facets as well. Strong and linear. It all wears this black licorice fan down... much in the same manner this tobbaco fan cannot find the appreciation for The Dreamer. No matter.

Sure, there are a ton of other black licorice / anise fragrances. These are my first three and I think I've drilled deep enough. Two outta three ain't bad! They shine bright in early Autumn.
03rd September, 2016

One Man Show Gold Edition by Jacques Bogart

A true Jackovasaurus of a fragrance. Loud and annoying. Not to be confused with OMS, Quorum, Bogart Signature or others of that ilk.

True, this statement is more about this reviewer's perspective than on the juice. So... sorry, not sorry.

For anyone out there that appreciates One Man Show for the undeniable masculine it is and enough so to pursue all things with OMS in the name, don't bother. There are no similarities. Gold Edition is sweet. Before getting rid of it, I grouped it along with others I deemed 'those not to be taken seriously', like Joop. Now, obviously, given the dozen or so positive reviews here, there's a following for this type man's fragrance. I just can't imagine a situation or environment where I'd want to smell it on me or other guys. An attention-getter with all the subtlety of a strobe light.
27th August, 2016