Perfume Reviews

Reviews by DuNezDeBuzier

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Total Reviews: 63

MCM 24 Evening by MCM

Think of a well-constructed fougere from yester-year. Then think plum and civet in noticeable portions. That is MCM 24 Evening to me.

Not a powerhouse and it'll wilt away to nothing in no time at all when worn in heat and humidity. Works especially well when the pace slows down a bit.

Curiously superior in every memorable aspect to its "Morning" counterpart.

At times the plum will give me a tobac sensation much like the fruit/cherry in Blend 30 does so.

If someone offered up this same well-constructed scent, turning up power and longevity from a 3 to, say, about a 9... perhaps it'd be an absolute favorite.
17th July, 2016

A*Men Pure Coffee by Thierry Mugler

There are those that deplore A*Men.

There are those that appreciate all the mugler patchouli/choco-centric offerings and will tell of the various nuances among and between them all.

And there are those that are just OK with all the offerings and will say they do not reflect enough toward the particular name (i.e. here -> not enough of a coffee accord in Pure Coffee) and simply don't differ enough to justify owning more than one.

I'm of the last group. I choose Pure Malt, but just by a wee dram.
13th July, 2016

Beaver by Zoologist Perfumes

Sometimes I wonder if we're all smelling the same thing, or whether my beak is broke... ever wonder that?

Beaver is a delightful light, whispy, ozonic, airy floral. It reminds me of a bed linen spray I once used. It's polite, floral, and much too fem for me. Yes, it seems to be anchored with a bit of animalic musk and ashtray but that bit's all so close to the skin that I really have to go digging to sense them. Further, these accords serve to round off the edges of an otherwise sharp floral. It all seems to have been done well and is pleasant enough, but in the end I look to wear things more classically masculine and the linen spray association is a distraction.

My expectation of a musky/castoreum-prominent mix with all the heft and density of something such as Kiehl's was wildly off mark. Makes sense, as the intended interpretation is that of the Beavers' typical surrounds rather than specifically of Beaver (castoreum). This, I think, is what I'm conceptually at odds with -- give me something like 60:40, musky animal to floral and not the other way around at what seems 90:10, and pursuit would be much more likely.

So, as it is, Zoologist's owner has candidly expressed low sales of <original> Beaver and a reformulation is now available: less ashtray, added some leather, modified the floral and musks. Understandable.
07th July, 2016
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Oud Stars : Zafar by Xerjoff

I like stinky cheese. Upon first spritz, and for about 5 minutes, Zafar reminds me of how much I appreciate a good bluecheese. Soon enough, that thought is replaced by peppery oud, the likes of which is the truest representation to the scores of oud oils I've collected from the who's who those in the BN oud forum continually suggest when sample inquiries surface.

Close to $8/ml. This is a 1 or 2 spritz fragrance tops, with marginal projection and longevity.

Nevertheless, if you like this kind of scent, this is a good one to like. The best spray oud I know.
06th July, 2016

Leather Oud by Christian Dior

Seemingly simple blend of well-worn horse tack type leather (ala Aoud Cuir d'Arabie), oud and honey.

Its pungent sweetness can prove irksome with more than but a couple sprays, which is quite sufficient for my taste.
05th July, 2016

Montana Parfum d'Homme (original) by Montana

To echo, parfum d'homme shares a lot of overlap similarities with Havana. Perhaps some of its molecules are a little lighter and more excited than some of those used in Havana, I don't know. Both are great and rather interchangeable.

If some current perfumers were challenged to reinvent a modernized version of Old Spice, perhaps one of those efforts would end up smelling kinda like Montana parfum d'homme.

A few years back I was fortunate to acquire two big ugly bottles at about tree fitty an ounce. Now that's a value... one of the best I ever had.
03rd July, 2016

Anucci Man by Anucci

Jasmine. A little soapy, a little chalky, with no indoles in sight. Not a bad scent but too fem for me. Befuddled by the golf association -- Que?

Edit 1 to add: A little pixie stix kind of tart in the drydown, close to the skin. I'd like this on a lady. Teetering towards the positive.
01st July, 2016 (last edited: 03rd July, 2016)

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

Dark choco, patchouli and jasmine. Perfectly done. A keeper.
01st July, 2016

Patou pour Homme (original) by Jean Patou

Thanks to a long time BNr, I'm fortunate to have a decant of special PPH. I sense clary sage / oakmoss with cinnamon / patchouli / amber blended to what any self-respecting gent would or should want to smell of. I swear one of my kid's pediatricians used to smell of PPH way back when, like a million bucks in a crisp clean labcoat and worthy of the memory space, evidently.

An end-all-be-all? Perhaps for some... BUT, along with a few others like Bel Ami, Derby, Jules, Arrogance Uomo, Monogram, Or Black, Blend 30 and so on from yesteryear, definitely deserving the mention.
30th June, 2016

Loewe para Hombre by Loewe

Masculine herbal citrus on a bed of confident optimism. I don't know of a better office scent.

The older the better; yellow juice is outstanding and the green stuff is still pretty good.

It doesn't remind me of anything.
28th June, 2016

Captain Molyneux by Molyneux

Out of ignorance, I went for the edt/as tandem in the clear bottles that can be had for less than a sawbuck. I do believe THIS ruined it for me, regardless of iteration.

First off, I'll point to darvant's fine review with its specific mentioning of Captain's anisic character. It's pervasive. With the current version, that's all I get... cheap and synthetic smelling anisic water. Truly among the worst. I tossed those bottles.

But far too many enthusiasts hold the earlier versions in such high regard. So, when enough of the 1oz vintage bottles interestingly (peculiar-wise) began surfacing in the secondary market, I gave the vintage form a shot. No bueno. Sure, it's fuller, rounder, a little mossy, and just feels like it's a much better composition leading to a much easier idea of what many identify it to be: a barbershop aromatic fougere. Unfortunately, the anisic character is there and I just can't shake the association to the current iteration.

I'm ok with a little black licorice / anise, certainly with vanilla in things like Reglisse Noire for a gormandy lark and definitely in other masculine fougeres like Azzaro pH and Charles Jourdan un Homme. Perhaps it's simply the way it's used in Captain that puts me off. Sans the anise, Worth pH is preferable.
26th June, 2016

Arden Men - Sandalwood by Elizabeth Arden

My current version (2007), while not a bad scent, has been an expensive loo freshener. Sharp, strong and not worth the effort if the primary interest is sandalwood.
22nd June, 2016

Eau des Îles by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Raw, rough, bitter, non-gourmand, roasted coffee, vetiver. Enjoyable enough on the whole but for quite some time into its heart there's an annoying burnt sugar/caramel over-roasted coffee waft from time to time... and only real noticeable when I sniff too close. Applying away from the nose solves that.

Exotic and masculine.
13th June, 2016
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M by Puredistance

An oriental spin upon one of the very best spicy leathery chypres classics I've ever smelled... Bel Ami.

Did this cheap bastard pay full retail? Why yes, yes he did!

When one reads "The one that renders all others obsolete" or other such nonsense, one is inclined to roll one's eyes. I've read as much about M, not once but a few times, and my orbs stayed put. M smiles at perfection and perfection smiles right back.
08th June, 2016

Urban Musk by Tom Ford

Start at Kiehl's take 2 steps towards MKK and a step toward MR. Or is it 2 from MKK towards MR and 1 towards the Kiehl's? Or 2 to the Kiehl's after taking 1 from MR towards MKK? In any event I think if you like any of those there's a good chance you like, liked, or might very well like Ford's Urban Musk. I paid about $2/ml for a 50ml bottle and am glad for it. It's gone, discontinued.
06th June, 2016

Aventus by Creed

Batches? I don't care about no stinkin' batches.

Is the attention muy annoying? You betcha! Despite that, I like the scent of fruity pineapple, particularly in warm weather, just fine. That, coupled with the ash/smoke and alluring drydown, ride waves of new-age aromachems large enough I often confuse with floaters, leaves this OK by me. I participated 50ml/$70 in a BN split a few years back - seems about the right price. A fan, just not a crazed fan.
05th June, 2016

Fresco for Men by Ilum Dean

Fruity, mostly pineapple... for a good long time... toward a musky, light-woody base. Does not have Aventus' smokey aspects, stellar drydown or nucular longevity.

I like this smell in the summertime and, all things relative, $25/100ml is about right.

05th June, 2016

Oudy Woody by Surrati

One screechysombitch on the open! The olfactory equivalent of fingernails down a chalkboard. There are well-constructed perfumes and then there are just scents... honestly, this is a sledgehammer of a just scent and I'm OK with that.

If you've ever had "a scrubber" then this type scent is probably not for you.

Even for those ready and willing for a lumberjack type adventure, this pungent leathery wood may please, yet may still be a little too abrupt and jarring for some. Kind of like riding your favorite grandaddy of a wood roller coaster after riding the new age steel rail monsters all day. It'll throw you around like a rag doll if you forget to remember the differences. It's good that "rickety" is still an option though and, yes, the lumberjacks I know like to ride roller coasters.

Surrati could just as easily have called this Leather & Oud. Upon settling it reminds me a little of Al Rehab - Oudy OIL. Same feel to me, at least, and about the same value as well.

1 or 2 sprays, tops. Please! How much lumber would a lumberjack jack if a lumberjack could jack lumber? The answer: Surrati Oudy Woody.
28th May, 2016

Oudy by Al Rehab

The oil and spray come off as two entirely distinct scents. Both are good, linear, minimalist, and last.

OIL is barnyardy with emphasis more on the wood and hay and less on the fecal however there is a definite edge to it. If you've ever worked poplar cottonwood for firewood, that smell approximates... roughly. A little corky too, of the dark brown chunky pinboard variety.

SPRAY is a pepper & sandalwood.

Given my tastes, two of the absolute best values I found upon the journey. Glad I made the effort.
28th May, 2016

Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur

It's no secret the house of L'Artisan has gone through some big changes in recent years. What that has meant to the formula of T42 is anybody's guess but recent reviews obviously don't bode well in this regard. SoS.

I date my bottle to 2010. To me, most all tea scents are high-pitched and come off too fem for my taste [I'm a BelAmi, Equipage, Polo, Yatagan, Azzaro, etc., kind of guy]. T42's smoke / rubber / leather / tobac character makes all the difference, crowding out the lemon / honey / ginger in a satisfying manner that tempers its high pitch.

All in all, a 5/5, yet I consider it a novelty scent. Make sense? Perhaps not to some... but a solid collection has its good ole stalwarts ('bricks') as well as those contributing variety ('mortar'). Today it's my SotD, first wear in 16 months. No matter. Except for searing heat, I like it year round.

One direction my nose goes with this that I don't see often, if at all: Tribute Attar; I find the ashy tobac of Tribute to be very dense and pungent by comparison but an overlap with T42 just the same. I'll often pair 'em up for a wear. Go figure.

23rd May, 2016

Green Water by Jacques Fath

Frosted bottle -- Spearmint gum & moss. Very nice old school warm weather scent. Comparatively, did not care much for the newer bottle, w/silver bottle label, less moss and more citrus.

I've got a deep vintage mini that is oddly different... no mint and more of a brut / fougere with a slight edge to it (up close). Odd. Then again, I can't vouch for authenticity so it might just be brut for all I know... and I don't have a problem with brut.
11th May, 2016

Burberry for Men (Version #2) by Burberry

Version 2 (c.1995)

Inescapably green herbal with mint on the open into the heart. There's a bit of conifer too, all the while, sitting upon an unobtrusive bed of lite resinous amber. There's a dissipating cooling affect due to the mint, which is nice. Every time I wear this, I wonder why I don't do so more often. Good one for the office. I was fortunate enough to have paid <$10/oz. A bargain at 3 times the price. Glad I grabbed one when I did. It's a keeper!
07th April, 2016

Oud Cuir D'Arabie by Montale

This is leather. Leather is this.

Masculine, with no 'pretty' character at all.

I like it just fine, but tbh it's hard to see any skill or craftsmanship behind this one. Seems like one could rather come close enough by contacting a perfumery supply, getting some leather accord and mixing it with some everclear. Well maybe not that easy, but still...
05th March, 2016

Lui by Mazzolari

Its open understandably drives 'em away. However, those with the necessary patience will likely find an appealing musky, patchouli, amber that lasts a full day. Is it possible to be both dusty and musty? My mind goes to one of those cured oak barrels ready to hold a good bourbon or scotch. Chock full of base notes for sure. I find a lighter but similar feel in the dry-down of Maxim's pH - with that one, there's a fruity/floral aspect in the heart, but the base is remindful of Lui. If you can believe it, there's a more pungent ringer for Lui in Laura Tonatto's Re which is hard to find these days but worth it if you're a fan. Good stuff, all, and TRUE masculines.
04th March, 2016

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Quite the marketing weave on this musk predominant. Noticeable castoreum upon the open and a leathery feel through its heart. There's a touch of indolic flower too and it all settles to a slightly sweet satisfying amber musk skin scent at hour 4. References to MKK, Kiehl's, Bvlgari Black are apt. Nice and pleasant. No clowns in sight.
01st March, 2016

Interlude Man by Amouage

Dusty leathery incense. Big projection. Big sillage. Long lasting. Nice! 4+/5.
27th February, 2016

Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur

For all who spray then immediately storm the spot with their beak... good grief and good luck doing THAT with THIS!

Intensely cumin. Dates & dried fruit, pungent yet not candy sweet. A little castoreum and the slightest rose. There it is.

Low level sillage and it doesn't project much, certainly not under clothing which is how I wear everything. Longevity, however, as a skin-scent is 12hr+.

About as edgy as it gets, especially on the open. Exactly what I'm after in a rough, masculine scent.

One of the few I've ever paid full retail and consider <$1/ml, a steal.
26th February, 2016

Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

A classy masculine patchouli-dominant with noticeable animalic musk and a teaspoon of honey. Perfect for guys with memories of the decade it was introduced. The Standard.
26th February, 2016

Équipage by Hermès

Spicy carnation. Go vintage. Go big. Top-shelf. Old-school. 4 hours. No idea about the newer stuff. 5/5
24th February, 2016

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens

Borrowing some descriptors from other reviews... chapstick, kreteks and cumin. A spicy and rather quirky novelty of a scent, and I'll echo, not too terrible distant in weight/feel from its tea-based-brother from the same house. Hardly deserved of all the acrimony. Works well in cool weather, under clothing.

I'm 50+, for reference.

23rd February, 2016