Reviews by granola357

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    granola357
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    Futur by Robert Piguet

    There's not much I can say that Off-Scenter didn't say express better than I could, but here's my take. This is a very unusual scent: it does smell "modern" but at the same time it also feels like a vintage composition because it's so rich and complex compared to most of today's scents. Futur definitely starts off extremely green, in a way that almost brings Estee Lauder's original Private Collection to mind. It's a delicious note, well described by Jardenel. It then moves into a floral-woody base, with the woods becoming increasingly dominant as time passes.The ending features a surprisingly spicy note that I haven't identified.

    The most surprising thing to me about this composition is how quiet and subdued it is: this fragrance does NOT scream. It's mellow in its richness, and brings to my mind a green deciduous forest on the East Coast in the middle of July, dark and mysterious, but not somber, as a result of the leaves filtering the sunlight out. It's so subdued, in fact, that you might want the EdP over the parfum because the sprayer will have greater impact.

    As to gender, I think this is perfectly wearable by men. The florals are not of the "feminine" type (by this I mean white flowers or sugary rose) and are mainly in a supporting role. It's less overtly floral than my other favorite green fragrance, Guerlain's Chamade, or the aldehydic Chanel no. 19.

    02 June, 2010

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    Chamade by Guerlain

    (Parfum): The first few minutes feature an intense green topnote, but within ten minutes a narcissus-based, spicy floral heart emerges, with the soft vanilla notes of the Guerlinade chiming in quietly underneath. Others have described this fragrance as "powdery," and while I see what they're getting at, it is not at all the typical baby powder or soapy aldehydic sparkle of other green scents but rather a richer, spicier and almost oily note that grows in strength through the drydown. This is much crisper than I had expected, and though it is a floral oriental it doesn't have a single trace of sweetness, which means that daring guys can probably pull it off.

    This scent differs quite a lot in its formulations, which seem to get spicier as the strength increases. The EdT is the greenest and crispest of the lot. The (now vintage) PdT is significantly more floral, and to my nose has a much more identifiable rose note than the other formulations. (I haven't tried the EdP that has since replaced it). The parfum is definitely the spiciest of the three.

    25 February, 2010 (Last Edited: 17 December, 2010)

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    Yvresse / Champagne by Yves Saint Laurent

    This is like Mitsouko's sweet younger sister. Like Mitsouko, it has a prominent peach note but whereas Mitsouko remains very, very dry throughout, Yvresse's peach is sweet and juicy, like those overripe peaches you have to eat with a spoon. Underneath the fruit lies a classic chypre accord. The sweetness makes it somewhat less unisex than Mitsouko, but the restrained florals and classic chypre notes mean that it's entirely possible for a guy to pull this off. Lighthearted and airy, this is a fragrance with a sense of humor and a twinkle in the eye.

    14 February, 2010

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    Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    The original Shisheido version of FdB is quite austere. It's anything but sweet, and the opening notes combine cedar with an intense note of incense, together with clove and spices. I'd have to agree with Matthewfoo that to my nose, the famous dried fruit/plum notes are there but very muted. This is much darker and more serious than the current Lutens version, which is lighter and sweeter, and Dolce Vita, which enlivens the basic accord with vanilla and florals. Excellent for guys as well as girls.

    17 January, 2010

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    Dolce Vita by Christian Dior

    This is a lovely, cedarwood scent accented with rum-soaked fruit notes. The floral top notes disappear after five minutes, making this an ideal scent for guys who don't want another Terre d'Hermès-inspired wood fragrance. Luca and Tania say the reformulation is no good, but I haven't tried it.

    02 January, 2010 (Last Edited: 23 February, 2010)

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