Reviews by Jean Patou Fan

    Showing 61 to 66 of 66.
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    No. 22 by Chanel

    Why oh why did Chanel discontinue No22 from general sale in the UK? It is my favourite of all the Chanels, and a far more distinguished fragrance than No5. On me No22 begins with white florals and incense; after about 30 mintues, the florals intensify and become slighly aldehydic, and a spicy base devlops. The parfum version is obviously heavier than the EDT; I haven't tried the EDP, which as far as I know is only availble in the US.

    I have only tried the Exclusifs version of No22 once, and found it to be a lighter fragrance, which concentrated on the white florals, and played-down the incense and spicy base.

    The Perfume Genealogy chart (is that still published??) states that No22 closest relative is Joy, but I see no resemblance between the two fragrances. Strangely the original Salvador Dali perfume, despite being an oriental, smells almost identical to No22.

    One of the Great perfumes, which puts No5 into the shade.

    05 March, 2010

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    Niki de Saint Phalle by Niki de Saint Phalle

    I have only tried the Parfum version of Nikki de St Phalle: I first bought it in the mid 1980s, when it was one of the fragrances in the selection in Harrods Christmas magazine one year. The perfume was as exotic as the blue cube shaped glass bottle, topped with gold and coloured snakes. In those days I usually wore classics like Chanel No5 and No22, and Le Dix and Prelude by Balenciaga, so for me Niki de St Phalle was something very exotic. On me this perfume turned into a heavy slightly gingery oriental-chypre, completely different from anything I'd had before. It got compliments from people virtually every time I wore it. It was wonderful!
    I wore this perfume until 1999 or 2000, when my last bottle (the 1oz/30ml Parfum, I had always bought) was a huge disappointment: the packaging appeared the same, until I opened the box. I was immediately struck by how all the gold on the stopper, and snakes ontop of it, which had always been metal, were now cheap-looking gold and colour painted plastic. The fragrance was equally disappointing: though it was similar to the way it always had been, it was not the same; it didn't have the same depth, and generally smelled a much cheaper fragrance. I did not enjoy wearing that bottle at all, and did not receive any of the usual compliments about it.
    I have tried testers of this fragrance, from many different shops, numerous times since I bought my last bottle: for me this fragrance has definitely changed, and is not the wonderful perfume it was. Now, it is a pleasant fragrance, but not the very special one it used to be.

    28 February, 2010

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    Aramis Bermuda Tonic by Aramis

    A fragrance I love! Light, ozonic (though much softer than Issey Miyake for men) and sherbety, On me a a VERY soft sandlewood type not develops in the background after about 30 minutes. Surprisingly lasting for such a fresh fragrance.

    I have bought 4 bottles since my first - and will continue to buy!

    28 February, 2010

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    Infini by Caron

    Infini is one of very few perfums I would describe as perfect: according to Caron, it took 15 years of intensive research to develop, and I can see why. For me it is the essence of late 60s/early 70s French perfume. It has aged well and makes a refreshing change to many insigificantly forgettable newer perfumes. All the notes of Infini are very subtle, with none overpowering the others.
    When I put Infini on, I immediately get a smokey note, which reminds of Dior Dior; after 30 seconds this combines with very subtle jasmine and hyacinth. Heavier woody and possibly tonka bean notes are there too, but not in an obvious way. Caron describe this perfume as having a "chord" of notes; for me this is true: the floral and wood notes can somehow be smelled as separate layers, all at the same time. After half an hour the smokey note fades, and iris and subtle rose joins the jasmine and hyacinth. Aproximately two hours later, a green note joins the chord. The fragrance lasts and last and is still strong on me 8 hours later.

    A very strong concentration of Infini has been available, called "L'Infini"; I have never tried it, but would love to. For me, Infini is underrated, andold fashioned in the best sense of the word, but far from outdated.

    28 February, 2010

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    Narcisse Noir by Caron

    Narcisse Noir is one of my all-time favourites! It changes a lot from the time I put a drop on; initially I get hints of baby powder, Joy, and Indian incense sticks. Within five minutes baby powder and Joy are gone, and the Indian incense is replaced with heavy incense resin, and white jasmine. It's heavy, heady and very intoxicating. For me, this is definitely an evening fragrance, and one that is truly bewitching. It lasts and lasts! A small dab on my wrist from the bottle stopper still smells strong eight hours later. As has already been said, use moderation when putting on Narcisse Noir; it is strong, and it does not take much for intoxicating to become plain toxic!
    For me, this one of a handful of truly great perfumes, and one I keep coming back to.

    28 February, 2010

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    Le Dix by Balenciaga

    I first smelled Le Dix in 1984, when I bought a bottle on a cross-Channel ferry; in those days 4.25ml of Parfum cost £8.50! I loved Le Dix from the moment I tried it; the fragrance from this first bottle was an elegant, soft powedery-violet perfume, with no obvious aldehyde notes. At this time I didn't actually like violet (and my favourite perfume then was No5), so my liking Le Dix was quite amazing; however, I came to like it even more than my beloved No5. This bottle was a tiny version of the classic Balenciaga parfum flacon, with a gold coloured screw-on stopper, in the shape of the glass one on larger sizes.

    After this first bottle, I didn't buy it again until about a year later, when I purchased a 7.5ml parfum. I think this was possibly old stock, as it smelled of pure aldehyde (like No5++!) , with very little violet in evidence. I was very disappointed, and this bottle put me off Le Dix for a number of years.

    After 15 years, I bought Le Dix again, and discovered this bottle to be a very pleasant balance between the powdery violet notes of my first bottle and the aldehydic ones of my second.

    For me Le Dix is the most elegant Balenciaga fragrance, which is equally suited to day and evening wear.

    28 February, 2010

    Showing 61 to 66 of 66.