Reviews by Shifty Bat

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    Shifty Bat
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    Daisy Dream by Marc Jacobs

    This is a baseless fragrance, not in the sense that it serves no purpose, but that it really bottoms out early on. Daisy Dream is easily more palatable to me than the flagship version and I do appreciate its use of negative space - it's hard nowadays to pull this off without being obviously cheap. As for the composition, I feel if they had steered away from the common-as-water 'berry' notes involved this would have been infinitely more interesting, although I may just be wishing some house or other would make a successful reiteration of Balmain's irreproachable Ivoire. As it stands, DD is a fleeting, pleasant warm weather white floral with little fuss, and employs a lovely use of the cleaner version of jasmine. I think this one could be made to shine when layered with a light application of neroli, amber, or oakmoss oil.

    15 August, 2014

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    Horizon by Guy Laroche

    A salty fennel and grapefruit scent laid over fresh patchouli. More a 'damp herbal' than an aquatic, it is very similar to the original formula of Kenzo Pour Homme but more naturally friendly-smelling and without the sort of low tide musk that came with. Tucked away in the layers of this composition is some kind of berry (far in the background of the big picture) as well as an accord that reminds me strongly of The Visionary by the Gap, which was a sparse green scent comprised mostly of caraway and geranium. The whole effect is strange but incredibly alluring, especially considering the current asking price. The top doesn't stay too long but the woody drydown is a close quarters, all day affair.
    Horizon exhibits one of the greatest utilizations of fennel in a fragrance that I have ever encountered; it is a beautiful, bittersweet watercolor and (despite the vague comparisons) an utterly singular creation.

    04 August, 2014

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    Alien by Thierry Mugler

    It's just a cheaper regurgitation and intentionally weird repackaging of Hypnotic Poison, devoid of any of its richness, class, and easy suavity- like Nicki Minaj and Lady Gaga trying to recreate classic Madonna with added shock appeal. It would be pleasant if the sweetness didn't make the construction so opaque.

    If you want to like Alien and Hypnotic Poison but feel they're not quite for you try tracking down a sample of Deep Night by Ghost.

    04 August, 2014

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    A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

    As the four hundred sixty-ninth entry in the A*Men discussion I have little, if anything, to add but this - I initially, and for years after, found it to be quite revolting. I got around to trying its delicious and more focused predecessor, Animale Animale, and figured I should return to Mugler's offering later on when I understood things a little better. I still find it crassly chaotic in the opening but now I harbor a small appreciation for it for creating an opening that can keep people guessing and interested. The notes involved don't seem to blend together in the first stage, instead radiating alone in parallel lines from the body, unlike similar scents like the later Rochas Man, which is obviously cut from the same cloth but more of an intentional melange.
    I'm still not in love with A*Men but I respect any frag that can use coffee and mint together without making a total mess.

    04 August, 2014

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    Invictus by Paco Rabanne

    Invictus is utterly disgusting. It tries to combine a woody vanilla like Le Male with a generic, modern day sports scent and fails so utterly that I honestly can not believe the brief was not only accepted but produced. It comes off as loud, brash, confusing, cheap, cloying, and (most unfortunately for me) darn near unscrubbable. I try hard to be objective and have changed my mind for the better about a great many scents over the years but this one is in no way salvageable. It would be a ripoff even at the $5 mark.

    Much like what current American radio is for people with no real interest in melodic music, Invictus is a fragrance for people who don't like fragrances.

    People who bought this item also bought: Gold-plated chain necklaces, barbed wire tattoos, chinstrap beards, Pitbull cd's.

    04 August, 2014

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    Jaguar Mark II by Jaguar

    This model Jaguar is a muscle car compared the nuanced original, and it roars.
    The entire composition revolves around patchouli, and the type used makes Mark II like the day to Salvador Dali's night. The patchouli in both is bright and multifaceted, and smells like the freshly cut plant, unlike many of the heady, hippie-associated oils in the world which mask and overpower instead of charm. Now, where Dali's version is dark and more moody it is still a thing of great beauty with its strange dirt and flowers vibe. Jaguar's interpretation skips the fine lines, and in broad strokes paints a portrait all in mellow brown and bright orange tones- a simple, straightforward, and utterly potent mix of woods and sweetness that teeter on the verge of smelling like diesel exhaust. Lasts for ages and, despite being completely linear, the sandal in the end stage smooths out into a real beauty.

    08 July, 2014

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    Black Orchid by Tom Ford

    I knew it! I knew there was ylang in here, poking its head through the stage curtain with its quiet impression of banana. Black Orchid is a plush, velveteen oriental that stacks white florals (funny) on a nearly-edible woody base. It smells 'purple' to me, likely because of a good dose of currant (which, in concert with the balsamic vanilla base, reminds me of Opium Pour Homme). I was discussing this one with a friend and he brought up comparisons with Obsession Night by Calvin Klein, for which we share an affinity. We concluded that Black Orchid is the crushed velvet to O.N.'s smooth suede. It's well-made and lasts ages. A bit oppressive in hot weather but we'll forgive such minor trespasses.

    To anyone interested in trying this one on - go light on the application or you risk becoming the scent equivalent of costume jewelry.

    24 June, 2014

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    White Patchouli by Tom Ford

    This smells heartwarmingly close in composition to Strange Invisible Perfume's captivating Lyric Rain, but doesn't exude the same weary melancholy. It is a spicy, very natural patchouli supported by a touch of bright bergamot and a soft tea rose heart. There is also a spicy melange of an accord that comes off as 'white pepper potpourri.' An excellent and simple spiced white floral with decent longevity and quality ingredients.

    24 June, 2014

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    Insensé by Givenchy

    It's got the dirty, raw, floral herbality of Rochas Globe, the amber and fir base of Jil Sander's Feeling Man, and the sparkling, nearly-citrus aldehydes of a classic Chanel. So what's wrong with this little overachiever, this 'everything wannabe?' Nothing. I was just leading you on. Insense is a beautifully crafted and surprisingly spare floral scent made for men and enjoyed by anyone with a right mind. It strikes a humming, middling chord so even and so sensible that it could be worn easily in any clime or time of year. I really lament the failure of the attempted resurgence of the masculine floral from 1990-95 because it spawned several of my favorite fragrances, and I do appreciate a well-built, non-fruity floral. Insense is an 'everyman's floral,' and it hits all the right notes and never leans too hard. It is a Beyond Paradise for 'aquatic' haters. It should have been a classic.
    I'd rate this among the best of Givenchy's work, just under Ysatis, and right alongside Xeryus and Givenchy III. Beautiful stuff.

    21st June, 2014

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    Diamonds & Rubies by Elizabeth Taylor

    This is a smooth and elegant rose/orchid scent with a wisp of bitter greenness: petals and stems overlaying a milky-powdery sandalwood base. It is really quite pleasant but it's been done much better elsewhere at about the same price point - If you like this but can't find the original make, try vintage Nicole Miller for Women for a richer formula of the same structure plus a ripe plum, or try Perry Ellis f for a stronger rose/cinnamon take.
    All in all a solid scent, but the current version lacks the creamy, come-hither warmth of the original.

    19 June, 2014

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    Eau de Cartier Concentrée by Cartier

    Violet leaf has become a much-maligned thing in perfumery for its association with the beautiful but un-modern Grey Flannel, its starring role in most of the bombastic Lempicka line, and its rampant use in countless faceless-fresh masculines over the last decade. For me, this rendition of Cartier's lightest masculine is a breath of fresh, purple-tinged air. Although it can come across as overly synthetic, especially in high heat, the opening burst of amber-sweetened violet countered by a hint of coriander is incredibly fresh and uplifting. Most surprisingly, this normally fleeting sort of accord lasts a solid hour, earning high marks from me. Afterward, the scent dries down rapidly, leaving a cedar-amber 'almost vanilla,' much like the powdery almond-like residue of Cartier's Must Pour Homme, with which EdCC shares several bodily similarities.
    Though I wish this was longer-lasting I suppose that would defeat the purpose of creating a pretty, light-weight scent. I have found that spraying body and clothes at intervals keeps the show going in a brilliant way, as the musks in this one aren't strong enough to really build up and become oppressive. Nothing spectacular, but this one makes me happy.

    After an evening wearing Grey Flannel on one hand and EdCC on the other on a hunch, I am convinced Cartier wanted to basically relaunch the 1976 classic with its own modern twist. Gone is the characteristic galbanum and the rich, milky sandalwood, but the remainder is like the apparition of the former after the corporeal had been discarded. It will never be as good as its precursor but I see it as a pleasant homage to the original champion of Violet.

    16 June, 2014 (Last Edited: 17 July, 2014)

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    Colette by Tocca

    Once you recognize the melody of Colette's song as that of New York by Parfums de Nicolai you can't dissociate them. This a more sparse, sort of Pointilist New York on a budget (minus the herbs) which isn't much of a performer but is well-built and very pleasant, sporting an orange and bergamot opening which extends far into the fragrance care of the sweet woody amber in the base. It is a lighthearted, candied scent which doesn't evolve much in its lifespan but is very easy to like.
    Nice enough, but for the money most would be better off tracking down New York, Minotaure by Paloma Picasso, or Guess by Marciano for Men, all of which could be worn easily by men or women.

    09 June, 2014

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    Brigitte by Tocca

    A lightly fruity ginger and saffron which reminds me of a few recent YSL flankers for men, Brigitte has poor projection and less longevity, and is largely a waste of time, but I could never say it is unpleasant. This one only disappoints because I know it would be incredibly good if Tocca didn't penny-pinch so hard and dilute the formula so heavily.

    09 June, 2014

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    Givenchy III by Givenchy

    Concerning the vintage perfume formula: The bergamot and lactonic peach rested on a bed of greens is very much reminiscent of the other readily-available reference Chypre, Mitsouko, but Givenchy III is Mitsy with a shadow cast over it, or darkness lurking within. The inky, black base of vetiver, castoreum, and oakmoss is always in the front seat for this ride, and doesn't just reveal itself after the top dies off - it looms behind the whole composition, coloring it a darker shade of smoky green, with a smell upon opening not unlike fresh dirt (It actually has a lot in common with Caron's Vetiver). This is as 'classic' as scents get in the modern age - III is very much an Old World kind of scent, one which proclaims class and demands respect, and is a hard wear for anyone not an intriguing socialite. It is a near-cousin to my beloved Norell but is less bright and all-inclusive, more the dark branch of the family. It is stark and beautiful in an angular face kind of way. Whereas this kind of scent used to be more commonplace in the last century it now fills a different role than intended. This is not at all a scent for the casual wearer, nor is it even suited for enthusiasts - Givenchy III is a scent tailored to the desires of scent maniacs and classicists. It is a placeholder for an era that came and went but one which we wish would stay.
    I haven't smelled castoreum this strong since my acquisition of vintage Van Cleef & Arpels. This could easily have been called 'Black Moss.' Beautiful stuff.

    06 June, 2014

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    Flora Danica by Royal Copenhagen

    A lightly honeyed floral, very much late 70's-early 80's in style, Flora Danica bursts from the nozzle with a dazzling palette of aldehydes and white-to green floral notes which sing loudly and happily. This first act doesn't seem to last particularly long but from several accounts I've heard concerning this scent I'd bet overapplication makes the opening here oppressive to standers by.
    The heart of this fragrance is charming but proportionally tame, and seems like a well-behaved 'little sister' scent to many similar woody florals or light chypres, as though this were the honeysuckle to the elder sister's jasmine in the formula. As with many such scents made between 1950-80 there is a pleasantly light spiciness added by carnation, like a child doing an endearing impression of adulthood (clove), but the real catch is the amber-backed, slightly green rose, much in the manner of Poivre and its sort. The end phase is light and wears very close, smelling mostly of light woods, amber, and the faintest of white petals. In all this is akin to the marriage of Aramis 900 and Anais Anais, and I actually prefer it to both.
    My developed bias aside concerning the Royal Copenhagen line, this is an extremely well-proportioned floral scent, housed in a very likeable bottle-within-a-bottle, is heartwarmingly pleasant to the nose in the middle stages, and is vastly more enjoyable and natural than most fragrances I've sampled this year. Having a bottle of this in my home is like caring for a Unicorn - I want everyone to know about it but there is so little left to go around.

    05 June, 2014

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    Halston Couture by Halston

    A liquid which radiates from skin like woody sunlight, Halston Couture is a dry, bright almost- chypre made in a very 70's style. In fact, it is reminiscent of Diorella with half the ingredients but each at double strength, the basic formula still intact. The opening is a brilliant lemony citrus, flanked by a light, pale rose and jasmine, underscored with patchouli. Impressively, the amber which will come to sweeten the heart and lay the base to rest is absent, so the beginning phase is dry and very bitter, and creates a scent illusion like sunflowers. During this opening phase, which lasts anywhere from thirty to sixty minutes, Couture projects quite strongly. When this scent tapers into the heart it's not so much that the citruses disappear but it seems like they hide behind the woods and can still be caught coloring the other accords. Here it becomes sweeter and more pleasant, if less exciting. This soapy and bitter oakmoss, at first a whisper in the chorus, now increases in presence as the top diminishes, and the far drydown is that same sweet amber with the now dominant moss and the backbone of patchouli which seems to be the only instrument set at a constant volume.
    Nearly all of Halston's fragrances before the mid 90's were chypres of some sort, and all of them were at least good. Couture is a departure from the usual, as it is brighter and more classical than the previous lot, but I feel this formula was recycled and overly decorated later as the Women's version of Catalyst. In a nutshell it is a super-pleasant lemon-patchouli-rose composition bordering on masculine in approach and very enjoyable throughout all its stages.

    04 June, 2014

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    L'Arte di Gucci by Gucci

    L'Arte is one of those magic tricks which employs a twin to act as the performer's double in a separate box; at first impression most might pick up little more than a heady Damask rose, but lurking right behind it to fill out the trick is a similarly colored tuberose. This headlining duo works in concert to dominate a small bitter-green backdrop propped up by a meek amber supporting player. Everyone scrambles to make the stars look good, and whereas most scents which attempt this level of illusion botch the act or fail to impress, Gucci's (unfortunately axed) offering leaves the audience in awe, and everyone gets their money's worth as the performers leave, after a surprisingly long show, in a faint fog of magenta.

    Gucci has done away with most of their better offerings but fans of L'Art, or those looking for something similar, would do well to track down the more easily available vintage versions of Aramis 900 and/or Nicole Miller (for Women), as this smells like the exact median of the two.

    This is Gucci's finest take on Rose so far, and among the pinnacles of the house's achievement.
    They may have traded hands and cut corners but this scent is just another reminder that Gucci used to be one of the smartest and most stylish designers around. It's up to them whether they will reclaim their title or continue to sink further into mediocrity.

    03 June, 2014

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    Fleurs d'Ombre Ombre Bleue by Jean-Charles Brosseau

    Before the Fleurs moniker came into the equation this was simply called 'Ombre Bleue.' I can not attest to the quality of the more recent variation, but the original is a pleasant if simple idea - A pre-aquatic seaside floral.
    The opening employs a strange, honeyed 'almost-fruit' which is hard to pin down, smelling at once like green pears, dehydrated pineapple, and that classic peachy lactone that adds rosy cheeks to so many classic chypres. Most of the scent is embodied by a breezy jasmine and neroli duo that manages to evoke memories of damp laundry on a clothesline, and a benzoin/vanilla base that is somehow almost devoid of powder. The official list claims 'sand' and 'sea notes' are in the mix but we all know how creative the PR team can get. Instead of smelling like the meeting of surf and terrain this comes across more like white flowers growing in the dunes nearby; a clean, semi-sweet white floral with an illusory dash of salt. Projection is great for about thirty minutes but most of the wear is a close, breezy aura spanning three to four hours.

    While not an exceptional scent I must give due credit to Ombre Bleue for its tastefully unsweetened vanilla and aquatic impression without using calone. I tire easily of vanilla in most scents but a good, clean jasmine like this really gives it a cottony, happy feel. Perhaps best of all, this could be worn effortlessly by men or women of any age, and there are few scents I can name that can fill in that much space. If I can get ahold of some of the new juice I'll give that a paragraph or two as well.

    01st June, 2014

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    L'Interdit (original) by Givenchy

    Spending an evening sniffing a vintage vial of L'Interdit dating from the early to mid-eighties, I caught myself thinking, "This is so good it's stupid."
    Not the best verbiage for a review, but honest.
    In this I smell the traceable root of the sandalwood/plum of Nicole Miller and the strawberry floral of Perry Woman, each another decade after this sample was made.
    L'Interdit is (in this incarnation) to smell what suede is to touch, and it balances richness with restraint most beautifully. There is a burst of luscious aldehydes and berries at the fore , the former departing shortly after application, the latter remaining for most of its duration. There is a lactonic peach melding with the famously banana-like ylang ylang and a superb impression of lily-of-the-valley. And then the real stars emerge - the rose and sandalwood, a hazy, soft, out-of-focus duo so beautifully interwoven one wonders why they weren't made apparent from the start.
    I had this sample lying around for years, and I had even tried it but never thought of it afterward. I am so impressed by this composition I have to give the reformulation another visit (I was rather harsh). I enjoyed wearing this so much I immediately bought a mini online for further 'study.'

    This is a soft, suave, simple fragrance that isn't likely to floor many people but if you want a close fragrance that sings constant praise in an alto voice of supreme quality I would sooner recommend few others.

    31st May, 2014

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    Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

    Not the worst 'sport' scent (which is akin to a compliment where things like this are concerned) but a bit predictably banal. I enjoy the (barely) aldehydic opening blast but for a fragrance marketed for metrosexual semi-athletes working up a sweat I think having a synthetic, ambery base is too much. Starts off nice enough but quickly outstays its welcome, much like a boisterous party guest that pre-games on the alcohol. I think the 'Homme' should be replaced with 'Bro.'

    28 May, 2014

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    4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser by 4711

    What else can be said about the tried-and-true 4711? It's light, almost too much so, but that's right up some people's alley. It's bracing and even a little fun, a perfect pick me up scent equally ideal for early mornings, gym bags, board rooms, and post-shower evenings. It is so short-lived that it simply can't offend, and (though I rarely condone the idea) layers well with all kinds of classic chypres and fougeres, from Diorella to Pour Monsieur.
    If you like lime rind, oakmoss, affordability, and glimpses into history, this one should be in your collection.

    28 May, 2014

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    Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I honestly thought I had reviewed Timbuktu years ago - this is just one of the many reasons I revisit all of my samples.

    Timbuktu is a beautifully airy and incredibly dry fragrance that leaves not so much sillage but a brief olfactory afterimage of the moving wearer. It is bone-dry, among the most arid scents I've sampled, but the composition leaves a good deal of space, allowing the different facets more room to move about. As for the smell itself, it is the ghost of fruit haunting scorched sand and wood, as though mango fruit juice had been left to dry out for days in the sun after seeping into a length of some charred wood like a cross between red cedar and guaiac. It is the scent equivalent of blending postcards of a Hawaiian beach, an Arizonan desert, and a Nepalese temple: a sort of tropical Gucci Pour Homme. A pleasure to wear.

    28 May, 2014

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    Ambro by Jacomo

    The opening blast of Ambro is a spicy-cool affair That smells like a toned down Le Male with a dash of Cool Water. Aspects of the latter begin to dominate in the journey toward the heart, (which is good because I am not fond of Le Male) and after a small time Ambro smells less like the Gaultier take on vanilla/lavender and more like the later Ghost Man, which is still my favorite scent of this style by a long stretch. At this stage the fragrance remains in its pleasant and evenly humming sweet patchouli state for a surprisingly long time and I begin to miss the richness of the first impression. The mint in this one is certainly tenacious, though. As Ambro dries down to a soft, woody nothing it merits another comparison - without the accent tones of lavender, cumin, and cardamom to support the melody this song it sings is that of Cartier's Roadster.

    While this seems like a derivative and uninspired fragrance it is actually a fun ride. It hits a lot of notes without coming off as confusing and the quality is quite good for the price, even if the budget seems to run dry toward the end. If you enjoy any of the aforementioned fragrances Ambro is a pretty safe buy, especially since it's still super cheap online.
    Not great, but not bad at all.

    20th May, 2014 (Last Edited: 19 May, 2014)

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    Fujiyama Gentleman by Succès de Paris

    Super cheap (quality and price) scent straddling the lines between Orientals, gourmands, and fougeres. While it features quite an array of supporting notes, most of what you'll get is vanilla, musk, and licorice. There is a hint of cinnamon and violet, as well as a subtle cherry-like accord, much the one found in Lolita Lempicka's eponymous and Minuit scents. I also catch a bit of lavender, orange blossom, and cedar, but it's hard to tell with the seemingly haphazard blending and budget ingredients.

    This is not a scent that will please long-time fragrance fans but for a younger audience looking for a cheap alternative to Joop! Homme, Le Male, Lolita Lempicka (or au Masculin), or by a longer stretch Allure Homme or Perry Ellis's 'M', this is a rather pleasant budget frag. One could do far worse for $10, and the almost-cherry-vanilla-musk aspects last for a surprisingly long time.

    Just don't over-spray.

    15 May, 2014

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    Made to Measure by Gucci

    Gucci execs arguing whether to make another copy of their grapefruit-forward sports line or to copy CK's new Encounter (because it must be good). What we get is a revolting and confused sportiental with a sickeningly synthetic opening and an irredeemable, bellowing woody amber base which hours later devolves into apparently nothing. There are scads of bad sporty-fresh scents out there, and even more cheap and unnecessary orientals, but if anyone at Gucci's firm thinks human beings should pay real money for this product -that- is an utter travesty. Smells like a chemical spill at Firmenich made into a brief at the behest of a twelve year-old walking into the room and saying it's nice.
    Sampling this actually made me angry.

    11th May, 2014

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    Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

    Lovely ginger, green anise, and carnation opening, and applause for making a masculine floral in general, as they seem ill-fated in today's market. This is a handsome and very suave fragrance sure to please any carnation lover. The opening is a bright and sunny herbal affair which quickly subsides into a soft, powdery spice that smells like Annick Menardo was given a brief for a men's version of Anais Anais. In body and texture, if not entirely in scent (though the mandarin and vanilla combo is spot on) this reminds me of Lalique Pour Homme (Lion) with less oakmoss, and it's also a bit like the licorice and makeup-almond of 1725 Casanova. The blending is superb and the whole transitional experience is quite smooth. On the other hand Must is very quiet, which I'm sure is great for those with strict work regulations or spouses with sensitive noses, but this is really just too meek for its own good.

    Beautiful scent, but it whispers.

    06 May, 2014

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    Realities (original) by Liz Claiborne

    Argh! Such a beautiful waste of a good sage note. Realities is just enough floral to count as one, just enough herbal as well. It's barely a scent, it's so meek. It's like spotting an impossible beauty from all the way across an airport terminal, falling in love, and never seeing that person again; It's torture how good this could have been, and how weak they made it in the end. I suppose it could be used as a functional gym bag or room scent but after smelling it as it unfolds I just want more.
    A single rose, a sprig of sage, and a slice of fresh peach in a glass of warm water. Recommended for anyone that is bothered by or allergic to heavier scents and feels they are missing out.

    14 April, 2014

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    Escape by Calvin Klein

    Pleasant and faintly salty peach and plum white floral with a tropical feel, like a Fuzzy Navel or similar mixed drink. Though Listen by Herb Alpert predated this approach by a couple of years (and doubtless was entwined with the creation of the original Kenzo Pour Homme) CK's Escape is really one of the most natural-smelling in the company's arsenal. It suffers from an inevitable lack of excitement but it serves its purpose well - a scent for languishing in the sun on a day off or transporting the wearer to such a place even if they have to work today after all.

    14 April, 2014

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    Romeo di Romeo Gigli by Romeo Gigli

    You know what immediately keeps a freesia-heavy fragrance from smelling like a hair care product? Basil. What a sharp idea, that, taking the white floral bouquet into the spice garden. Romeo here is like the Mediterranean, kitchen savvy alter ego of vintage Diorella; yellow citruses, green herbs, white florals, and golden resins create a sunset palette of an accord. Very natural and very good.

    13 April, 2014

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    Pretty Petals by Ellen Tracy

    A fun hot weather scent, front-loaded with peach and jasmine with a hint of rose and freesia, drying down to a vanillic fruit-musk after about two hours. This stuff is very strong for its style. It smells like what one might expect if Garnier Fructis made personal perfume; it's just a notch above hair product quality, but it's good for what it is. Though it isn't likely to 'wow' many I think Pretty Petals would please most gals age twelve to fourty with its easygoing swellness.

    13 April, 2014

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