Perfume Reviews

Reviews by merry.waters

Total Reviews: 18

Black by Bulgari

Lapsang Souchong is a Chinese black tea roasted over pine needles. It is dense and smokey, what did You expect? Some people could associate that smell with burnt rubber when combined with sweet vanilla. On me the fragrance was interesting for about 30 minutes. Then it turned to a sweet mess. No further development from that on. It is to simple irregardless of the price. Alas, Black supports the new (?) trend to catchy top notes but rather dull base notes.

On blotter / paperstrip it lasted and kept some interesting olfactory indecision. But not on my wrist. It could be a piece of art, but for me personally it is not worth to be worn. The 5 stars by Luca Turin don't make any scense to me.
21st March, 2010

Green Water by Jacques Fath

Delicious, fresh, may be even complex if one takes the time. Relaxing and classy if one has to simply rely on it. Ain't that cheap in Europe. But this crude mint, like chewing whole leafs, great! The aromatic woody fruity juniper berry is worth the long lasting but not so prominent dry down. It makes the wearer feel clean, pleasant hence self assured a long time. For those who are more easy than artsy with their scents this could be an insiders tip.
17th March, 2010

Iris Noir Secrets d'Essences by Yves Rocher

I own this by accident. It hasn't any Iris quality to my nose. The first blast is a very simple synthetic black berry, the "noir". Kind of lollipop. O/k, then it squeezes something I don't really get. A bit of a sharp, perfumey hint on powdery iris root (orris). Later on, the room is filled with that black berry smell, and just that. I can't imagine to wear this. I can't imagine a woman to wear this, except fishing for compliments. This attempt is made here with no effort in quality, refinement, surprise. It's just loud. Sorry, no way.
19th February, 2010
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Or Black by Pascal Morabito

To much, burns in the eys due to a penetrating sharp quality like liquorice, sweetened ammonia. Old fashioned, peculiar, but unfortunately not interesting. It may be a mans perfume, but it ain't appealing. No romantic adventures in sight. It is way out of it's time.
15th February, 2010

Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d'Orange

The start of this is resembles a sharp glue. It dries down to a cheap functional "jasmine". After a while the whole thing reveals some warmer notes of may be hay. It has the same synthetic quality that an other sample has, EDLO Fat Electrician.

In my opinion it is a party gag. "Don't Get Me Wrong", I'm not to austere on perfume. I really would like to like it more! But price and availability do not match to what it is. Neutral because it doesn't seem worse to other frags that are around.
10th February, 2010

Diorella by Christian Dior

It seems to be a bit old fashioned, definitely. But I argue that is intentionally so. The composition is flawless and offers enough facets not to bother my nose on the long run. I would like a girl to wear it from time to time just for the fun of it. It should be used light, though, to avoid an unpleasant thrill. For that it can't be used to canopy modern functional fragrances from shampoos, lotions etc. And it doesn't fit them either. I expect the application to be a demanding task nowadays. Judged by itself, Diorella's great.
04th February, 2010

Vétiver by Piver

Starts a bit like anise == apple + vetiver? Spicy! After 5 minutes the soft and gentle smokey vetiver rules. For my nose the further development doesn't change much. The fragrance relies on the arousing, exotic smell of the natural vetiver - well, what else? If You're after spooky "notes" why not mention dusty bone dry tube electronics, ozone, high voltage, supernatural phenolic sweetness, oil, tar? It's all in here, as far as You might imagine it. I could nearly smell my soldering iron, if that wasn't to poetic. It's definitely a mans scent, powerful, austere. Worth a try, if You dare.
02nd February, 2010

Floramye by Piver

An ancient scent. Two words on its history. Prof. Darzens, successful with the synthesis of odorous substances before came up with a new class, the aldehydes, first C-12 MNA. L.T. Piver, as before with other of Darzens achievements was chosen to build a fragrance around it. This was Floramye, composed 1905. Way before Guerlains famous C-14 aldehyde Mitsouko and Chanels C10/C11/C12-mix No5.

What does it smell like? I think Your granny would have known it from her mother! It is definitely aldehydic: pungent flowerish (alas, I can't figure out the bouquet) , a bit spicey green, but not herbal, faint waxy, tad more oily than that. Powdery as expected from the iris/orris. The development is quite linear besides the first 20 minutes when it is more sharp. It finishes after about 4 to 6 hours in a soft, dry and very clean scented expression. In every stage it avoids to be sweet or heavy.

Even overdosed a lot it doesn't kill the nose. It remains gentle and - fun. I'm pretty sure that some precious ingredients of the original are substituted by modern aromachemicals - think of orris butter. Otherwise the price of 12Euro/15$ per 3.5oz would be a steal. That said the contemporary versions appeal is not complexity, refinement in modern terms or a scandalous assault to the least olfactory taboo. To the opposite it fascinates just by the lack of fishy sensations!

I'm really glad to have this Archaeopteryx of perfumery in my wardrobe.
02nd February, 2010

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

Tried it on a blotter only. Didn't get to much notes here. It is sweet, rotten organics all in all. A bit fecal. If I would get aware of such a smell walking the woods I would be careful for each further step. The eponymous orchid might be nice in color or shape. But that doesn't tell what brew of insects are meant to be aroused by the very odor.

In some way it might be seen as a gourmand type of fragrance. Thumbs neutral for its provocative potential. I'm straight writing my opinion with this. It doesn't sing my body the way I want, nor does it attract me. With this I'm pretty sure that first a certain personal attitude and liking is key to an understanding and a trustworthy valuation.
25th January, 2010

Comme des Garçons 2 Man by Comme des Garçons

Starting with lots of incense, caraway, anise, cardamon the like, smoke, faint sweetness, dry warmth. It reminds me of nights at the campfire, baking potatoes in it, peeling the partly burnt rind off. In my conception it's a twisted gourmand. The spices are right away edible, well done in the oven, often applied to baked potatoes in at least Germany.
An odd idea, instantiated well. The liking is a matter of taste, though. I definitely would like to smell as if I have had an adventurous night out in the fields occasionally (dating, opera etc. ... ;-)

It lasts for about 60 minutes on me sprayed liberally. After that period it dragged me down to present time. The base is - for my nose - plain Iso E Super. Some 0-dimensional odor, others describe as velvety, woody, musky etc. I can't stand it. At least that highly appreciated scent of autumnal campfire has blown away then. What a pity! The choking velvet aftermath bothers me to much, I simply ain't able to give it even one more try.
19th January, 2010

Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermès

Once more a velvety musky woody base I can't stand at all. The grapefruit is faint and gone fast. The fragrance shows minimalism in plugging some grapefruit knock-off-alike on top of xx% enigmatic Iso E Super. Other don't dislike that undertone as much as I do. Maybe I'm out for lunch regarding the contemporary art of perfumery.

To chow down a real grapefruit - low carb either - could be a delighting fun too, what exemplifies my individual sophistication with oddities like this one. Longing for alternatives ain't a challenge, as far as my wisdom holds.
13th January, 2010

Mahogany by Etro

It resembles the odor of mahogany quite well. In my memory mahogany tends to smell a bit sharp at a fresh raw edge. A bit more than other woods, specific. Etros composition dries down to, well, a very dry, trustworthy wood, dark, solid and restrained. Not much of a development.

It should be used with care. If it leaves a trace in the air or even envelopes the wearer perceptible for others, that would be a misuse, in my opinion. I'm convinced its real merits lie in being a whiff, that reminds of something having structural strength, giving a relaxing confidence.

Sufficient longevity.
13th January, 2010

Eau de Campagne by Sisley

I don't get to much notes here. For my nose it's plain oak/woodmoss with some citrus. It recalls the odor of the subtropical Canary Isle' forest above 2000ft, provided by orographic clouds from the Atlantic. As much oak/woodmoss as can be. Moist, woody, bitter, quite fresh compared to the climate at seelevel, but still comforting due to that much sun.

Highly appreciated, does not bother, just smells good, most anytime. So - the scent starts vanishing right from the start for my nose. But I have been told - the first time ever - that I might have taken a huge overdose of fragrance. 5 hours after the application! I myself perceived only a hint of it then. My curious inquiry yielded "woody, dry, cosy". And may be "light" if not overdone, though. But still it didn't mask who I am, either.

I think that's fine for me! In my conception it pays to peek at the older recipes. The temporary orotundity with all that Iso-E-Super duped perfection ain't without alternatives.

13th January, 2010
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Cuiron by Helmut Lang

A very dense, deep fragrance. Strong opening with the obligatory citrus, plum = leather + tangerine? It calms down and lasts enough to sniff through it all. After a long time of usage now it's to much leather for my liking.

Fortunately it doesn't have that disgusting "pungent" mid/base as many others today. It develops with ease, without being trivial. Referring to some more recent "classics" that's enough for a thumbs up despite of my changing personal taste. Additionally my friend likes it a lot.
13th January, 2010

Vetyver / Vétiver by Givenchy

I can't decide positively to buy a bottle. Tried once it lasted till the other day and was still refined, utterly balanced, clean. The caveat here is its lack of edges. Neither some malicious nor benign are present. It doesn't lack "complexity" either. Should luxury take a back seat? Since I gave up Helmut Langs Cuiron cause of weariness this could be a substitute as a masculine cliche scent to complete my personal dress code casually. If it wasn't that settled ... . Thumb up at least for its shear style.
13th January, 2010

Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

A classic I was told. Floral, herbal, a bit woody in the end. Great! Maybe the booster to the concept is a tidy amount of an aromachemical, same as with the famous Dior Eau Sauvage. Hedione, nowadays recognized as a note on its own?

It radiates some kind of coolness, more brains than soul. Sometimes that's what makes a man appealing. Cheap enough to just try, if not as a collectors item.

13th January, 2010

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

It goes along with many of the - meanwhile not - so new fragrances containing Iso E Super. The overall impression is a bit thick, like a cheap lemonade with some agent to cynically give it the touch of precious nectar. I really don't like it, while others don't care. As it comes to my taste, there are far better alternatives.
13th January, 2010

Original English Lavender / English Lavender by Yardley

It would be curious to say English Lavender is up to British prudery. A bit medical, harsh to emphasize its use as a pest repellent, in spite of being some fun for its own. The ingredients list itemizes additions as farnesol, benzyl something, coumarine etc. Too used as insecticides and against bacteria respectively.

The top notch entry is lavender. That is what You get as real for real. Of course this is not as creative as assembling aromachemicals to resemble a very certain bunch of flowers, brought by the knight on the white horse, metallic aspects in the top notes accordingly blasting in the sun, exhaling the morning dew from ... . It can be worn by straight men too, that is my belief so far, as I do.

13th January, 2010