 | Bulgari Black by BulgariLapsang Souchong is a Chinese black tea roasted over pine needles. It is dense and smokey, what did You expect? Some people could associate that smell with burnt rubber when combined with sweet vanilla. On me the fragrance was interesting for about 30 minutes. Then it turned to a sweet mess. No further development from that on. It is to simple irregardless of the price. Alas, Black supports the new (?) trend to catchy top notes but rather dull base notes. 21st March, 2010. |
 | Green Water by Jacques FathDelicious, fresh, may be even complex if one takes the time. Relaxing and classy if one has to simply rely on it. Ain't that cheap in Europe. But this crude mint, like chewing whole leafs, great! The aromatic woody fruity juniper berry is worth the long lasting but not so prominent dry down. It makes the wearer feel clean, pleasant hence self assured a long time. For those who are more easy than artsy with their scents this could be an insiders tip. 17th March, 2010. |
| | Iris Noir Secrets d'Essences by Yves RocherI own this by accident. It hasn't any Iris quality to my nose. The first blast is a very simple synthetic black berry, the "noir". Kind of lollipop. O/k, then it squeezes something I don't really get. A bit of a sharp, perfumey hint on powdery iris root (orris). Later on, the room is filled with that black berry smell, and just that. I can't imagine to wear this. I can't imagine a woman to wear this, except fishing for compliments. This attempt is made here with no effort in quality, refinement, surprise. It's just loud. Sorry, no way. 19th February, 2010. |
| | Or Black by Pascal MorabitoTo much, burns in the eys due to a penetrating sharp quality like liquorice, sweetened ammonia. Old fashioned, peculiar, but unfortunately not interesting. It may be a mans perfume, but it ain't appealing. No romantic adventures in sight. It is way out of it's time. 15th February, 2010. |
 | Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d'OrangeThe start of this is resembles a sharp glue. It dries down to a cheap functional "jasmine". After a while the whole thing reveals some warmer notes of may be hay. It has the same synthetic quality that an other sample has, EDLO Fat Electrician. 10th February, 2010. |
| | Diorella by Christian DiorIt seems to be a bit old fashioned, definitely. But I argue that is intentionally so. The composition is flawless and offers enough facets not to bother my nose on the long run. I would like a girl to wear it from time to time just for the fun of it. It should be used light, though, to avoid an unpleasant thrill. For that it can't be used to canopy modern functional fragrances from shampoos, lotions etc. And it doesn't fit them either. I expect the application to be a demanding task nowadays. Judged by itself, Diorella's great. 4th February, 2010. |
| | Vétiver by PiverStarts a bit like anise == apple + vetiver? Spicy! After 5 minutes the soft and gentle smokey vetiver rules. For my nose the further development doesn't change much. The fragrance relies on the arousing, exotic smell of the natural vetiver - well, what else? If You're after spooky "notes" why not mention dusty bone dry tube electronics, ozone, high voltage, supernatural phenolic sweetness, oil, tar? It's all in here, as far as You might imagine it. I could nearly smell my soldering iron, if that wasn't to poetic. It's definitely a mans scent, powerful, austere. Worth a try, if You dare. 2nd February, 2010. |
| | Floramye by PiverAn ancient scent. Two words on its history. Prof. Darzens, successful with the synthesis of odorous substances before came up with a new class, the aldehydes, first C-12 MNA. L.T. Piver, as before with other of Darzens achievements was chosen to build a fragrance around it. This was Floramye, composed 1905. Way before Guerlains famous C-14 aldehyde Mitsouko and Chanels C10/C11/C12-mix No5. 2nd February, 2010. |
| | Black Orchid by Tom FordTried it on a blotter only. Didn't get to much notes here. It is sweet, rotten organics all in all. A bit fecal. If I would get aware of such a smell walking the woods I would be careful for each further step. The eponymous orchid might be nice in color or shape. But that doesn't tell what brew of insects are meant to be aroused by the very odor. 25th January, 2010. |
| | Comme des Garçons 2 Man by Comme des GarçonsStarting with lots of incense, caraway, anise, cardamon the like, smoke, faint sweetness, dry warmth. It reminds me of nights at the campfire, baking potatoes in it, peeling the partly burnt rind off. In my conception it's a twisted gourmand. The spices are right away edible, well done in the oven, often applied to baked potatoes in at least Germany. 19th January, 2010. |
| | Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by HermèsOnce more a velvety musky woody base I can't stand at all. The grapefruit is faint and gone fast. The fragrance shows minimalism in plugging some grapefruit knock-off-alike on top of xx% enigmatic Iso E Super. Other don't dislike that undertone as much as I do. Maybe I'm out for lunch regarding the contemporary art of perfumery. 13rd January, 2010. |
| | Mahogany by EtroIt resembles the odor of mahogany quite well. In my memory mahogany tends to smell a bit sharp at a fresh raw edge. A bit more than other woods, specific. Etros composition dries down to, well, a very dry, trustworthy wood, dark, solid and restrained. Not much of a development. 13rd January, 2010. |
| | Eau de Campagne by SisleyI don't get to much notes here. For my nose it's plain oak/woodmoss with some citrus. It recalls the odor of the subtropical Canary Isle' forest above 2000ft, provided by orographic clouds from the Atlantic. As much oak/woodmoss as can be. Moist, woody, bitter, quite fresh compared to the climate at seelevel, but still comforting due to that much sun. 13rd January, 2010. |
| | Cuiron Pour Homme by Helmut LangA very dense, deep fragrance. Strong opening with the obligatory citrus, plum = leather + tangerine? It calms down and lasts enough to sniff through it all. After a long time of usage now it's to much leather for my liking. 13rd January, 2010. |
| | Vetyver / Vétiver by GivenchyI can't decide positively to buy a bottle. Tried once it lasted till the other day and was still refined, utterly balanced, clean. The caveat here is its lack of edges. Neither some malicious nor benign are present. It doesn't lack "complexity" either. Should luxury take a back seat? Since I gave up Helmut Langs Cuiron cause of weariness this could be a substitute as a masculine cliche scent to complete my personal dress code casually. If it wasn't that settled ... . Thumb up at least for its shear style. 13rd January, 2010. |
| | Grey Flannel by Geoffrey BeeneA classic I was told. Floral, herbal, a bit woody in the end. Great! Maybe the booster to the concept is a tidy amount of an aromachemical, same as with the famous Dior Eau Sauvage. Hedione, nowadays recognized as a note on its own? 13rd January, 2010. |
| | Fahrenheit by Christian DiorIt goes along with many of the - meanwhile not - so new fragrances containing Iso E Super. The overall impression is a bit thick, like a cheap lemonade with some agent to cynically give it the touch of precious nectar. I really don't like it, while others don't care. As it comes to my taste, there are far better alternatives. 13rd January, 2010. |
| | English Lavender by YardleyIt would be curious to say English Lavender is up to British prudery. A bit medical, harsh to emphasize its use as a pest repellent, in spite of being some fun for its own. The ingredients list itemizes additions as farnesol, benzyl something, coumarine etc. Too used as insecticides and against bacteria respectively. 13rd January, 2010. |
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