Perfume Reviews

Reviews by blackened

Total Reviews: 44

Jardin de Kérylos 16 by Parfumerie Generale

a fresh and lovely take on a green fig that reminds me the image of a fresh and milky fig whose peculiarity here is that the opening is accompanied with a soft peach note which gives it a special color to the smell.

great for summer.
15th March, 2014

Douceur de Vanille by Les Néréides

The combination here of vanilla, almond and cacao reminds me somehow of a lighter Montale Sweet Oriental Deam..
Subtle, pleasant but inoffensive...
10th March, 2014

Black by Puredistance

you can clearly note Antoine Lie's hand in this work. Black keeps the style of his others hits:Tom of Finland and Rien and that game of contrasts between dark and bright, between the tarry leather and the metallic floral so typical of their Eldos´ works. Very good but in the same vein as several of his works ..
20th February, 2014
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Cuir Venenum 03 by Parfumerie Generale

generally I do not tolerate perfumes whose centerpiece is leather but here appears comfortably, with the smoothness of suede but without losing character. Crown the smell at all times, a liquorish point (similar to Italian limoncello) that resembles the plum. Somehow it made me think, a much more enjoyable tuscan leather. I love the balance here between subtlety and presence.Great longevity
30th December, 2013

Dark Purple by Montale

perfume whose structure supports the patchouli-rose combo. It feels a little more feminine by the fruity tones (mainly plum) that here nicely contrast to the rough trail of patchouli.The overall feeling is very positive though perhaps you are missing something less linearity because , as many Montales, at the end, result in the same places.
30th December, 2013

Rose by Czech & Speake

wonderful and very natural smell of rose with a soft patchouli at the background that is throwing off sparks on a low heat. It has a clean/soapy quality mixed with a slight retro feeling that makes it very comfortable and enjoyable.
I love it!
07th April, 2012

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Avignon by Comme des Garçons

Avignon is well made but in my view, the overall result -and taking into account the genre to wich it belongs- is too politically correct and linear.
At the same time, it seems to be possible identify a certain intent to create a parfum that resembles to.., that emulates to, instead of create a true perfume that evokes directly the image they want suggest.
In the same way, there is some note in there that reminds me of the lead of pencils.
I prefer much more the exoticism of Jaisalmer.
22nd March, 2012

Rien by Etat Libre d'Orange

Fantastic stuff!!
It moves somewhere between the elegant and understated seduction of Antaeus and the incensed skanky side of Yatagan.
after a full wearing with it, I was completely amazed by its warm , cozy and slightly sweet floral dry-down. I was so mesmerized by its skanky aura of incense.
It was an excellent and eternal dry down!
14th March, 2012

Baudelaire by Byredo

the Overall, while not the same, bears a certain resemblance with L´instant edp eau extreme.I'm not completely convinced by the dirty note of most of Byredos, Can it be the papyrus? That note reminds me a little of the smell of compost.
at least it is to praise, a certain unique style and distinctive touch in their perfumes.
14th March, 2012

Un Jardin Sur Le Toit by Hermès

in my view, un jardin sur le Toit is the best of the line.I find it as a sort of l'ombre dans l'eau, for that combination of "green stem" and rose, but this garden is bathed by the mineralised and crystalline waters of Ellena.
also I do not get so relevant the fruity side as some of the reviewers tell -which I love- my feeling is rather closer to a green somewhat conceptual and sparkling.
Sur le Toit is the most floral of all, of a measured and harmonious floral , like the course of a stream in a meadow which magnetize whispering.
23rd February, 2012

Spanish Leather by Geo F Trumper

Leather here is slightly sweet, nothing rough and presents a light animalic tone at the background (perhaps someone can see here a certain air of habit rouge ).
I see a slight hint floral, some say to rose , but I see it more on the side of the lavender, which gives it a touch of clean, well groomed, in the barbershop style that gives the anis-lavender accord of Azzaro pour homme.
I feel it close to skin, very restrained and with a soapy evolution, from well early.
I think this is a good idea but no sot good execution.
18th January, 2012

Bois et Fruits by Serge Lutens

A gorgeous fruity oriental that oozes seduction and a sort of sweet sumptuousness.
The fruity accords here don´t err on the naive side but rather it provides a bright and vibrant touch to the composition, varnishing the aroma of a layer of Orientalist luxury.
On the other hand , emerging from the heart, the aromatic notes of cedar wood provide the counterpoint to the kind sweetness of peach, apricot and plum trio.
big thumbs up for this delicious combination of Orientalist fruit.
21st December, 2011

1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

1740 is a sort of Goutal´s Sables perhaps with a more noble treatment, less crude. Its opening is fascinating ,with that mixture of immortal, tobacco and leather, nuanced with a sort of floral breeze, but It becomes a bit cloying at the end of the day with that liquorous sweetness that never ceases to fade away.The immortelle here, you may like it or not but is sure that It will not leave you indifferent.
16th December, 2011
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Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Classic style and of antique barbershop style but softened and reinterpreted in the French way. The secret? Intense, persistent, yet cool and comfortable. The gem of any wardrobe worth its salt.
13th December, 2011

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

The name is quite descriptive of what we will find.The perfum smells a little like Moroccan fruits, such dates, raisins and all that, with its slightly sweet touch, and also smells like incense, myrrh ...... and also leather, but the feature that makes it great is that it smells like all of this in a way extraordinarily well-balanced without being suffocating.
Particularly Stresses its dry incensed side, not smoking (nor sparkling) somehow mineralized ... maybe that's what the name of the l´air of desert want suggest.
06th December, 2011

Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

the perfum of Halloween night? looking at his pyramid and at its peculiar pumpkin accord, someone would think that and not being in the wrong.
in my opinion,the special contribution of this perfume is to create an oriental-gourmand around the pumpkin accord and the truth is that is well done. You´ll find a sort of velvety sweet pumpkin, a bit smoked and somehow frosted with abundant ginger.
There is a sweet and caramelized note that blend perfectly with the pumpkin note and gives a quiet air to the composition.
The immortelle here is well intertwined, not as sharp as in other compositions.
The overall result is pretty well balanced and all the notes, in harmony, are part of a warm and enchanting blanket.
a more noticeable sillage is lacking however.
05th December, 2011

Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens

could one say about this ... a chypre-vetiver or a Chypre à la Lutens? I cannot fail to notice a similar pattern to pour monsieur concentrée or tiffany for men, having a similar buttery-mossy lemon quality.
Lutens presents here a semi crisp and mossy vetiver that doesn´t seem the typical vetiver of most of fragances, but rather an interpretation of the theme of spicy green oakmoss.
It smells good, smells clean but I would have liked a more innovative work about vetiver.
03rd December, 2011

Nightflight by Joop!

Nightflight is a nice spicy/aromatic citrus with an oriental dry down that smell a little more expensive than what its price point out. It has an opening based in a bitter orange + spicy pineapple combo that then, turns into an oriental dry down based in a balsamic sandalwood/amber base.
Very versatile and aromatic indeed , Nightflight has become almost in my go-to scent.
you can´t go wrong with this!
28th November, 2011 (last edited: 09th December, 2011)

Absinth by Nasomatto

Great stuff! Absinth is especial , appealing and stylish. It has almost the quality of a diamond, polished and shiny, (in this case, a green diamond).
Unfortunately, as other reviewers have pointed, it lacks of the wished strength, so I should also have liked to see more presence in it. The initial blast is very grassy, herbal, with hints of dark moss , almost with a moldy quality. The opening is crossed by a slight cannabis touch , delicate but well defined, surprisingly well made.
The absinthe note is very subtle, I´d say 'domesticated ', which even seems slighty caramelised.
On the other hand , this green river runs through a riverbed, made of the typical 'metallic' musk of many other nasomattos, giving a clean feeling of luxury.
The Overall is a little bit linear but the idea is very well executed.
28th November, 2011

Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

One of the most interesting releases of the last years.
This work is now a classic within artistic parameters , a classic in its style but at the same time, modern. I really like the work of the incense-rose- honey trio here.
I find that Absolue pour le soir is, in many aspects, debtor of works like Kouros. Those animalic nuances , clarified by floral traits such as rose or carnation, that alleviate the oppression of so much ocher-colored, as in the cave paintings of the prehistory.
APLS is ,with all its dark force and its baroque elegance , the perfume of the Vampire Lestat.
Big big thumbs up for this culmination of the baroque modern.
27th November, 2011

Black by Bulgari

if you can bear the initial outbreak of the rubber note you will enjoy one of the best dry down related to vanilla; a little powdered vanilla with a subtle flowery touch, very effective and attractive, wich is in a way the Dior homme of the bikers.
my rating is neutral especially because the more I wear it the more I am unable to rid myself the discomfort it causes me such nagging rubber note.
27th November, 2011

Mandarine Mandarin by Serge Lutens

It reminds me a cheerful cousin of Malle´s Noir epices without the rose and the overdose of cloves. In fact ,It symbolizes to me what Noir epices should have been and wasn't as a result of that cloying rose-clove-orange combo.
the spicy orange always stays on the top like a cheerful veil and the darker side stays in a discreet background.
It has a sort of burning caramel (like brown sugar) that blends perfectly with the bitter orange tones and carry it to more profound and intriguing paths.
very special indeed!
27th November, 2011

Un Bois de Sépia by Serge Lutens

Is not bad at all, but this sweet violet with sugar syrup tones and truffled of pepper, seem follow the guidelines of a designer scheme, in a bad way. In some way, this one reminds me to a sort of armani code without the cocoa line. Moreover , It lacks of the relief of most of Lutens proposals.
The mossy side is not felt as a natural breeze of nature that other mossy proposals bring out.
It is fair to say ,to his credit, that has a certain silky touch that brings elegance and subtlety.
24th November, 2011

Bois et Musc by Serge Lutens

I get something like citric elements , aldehydes, nutmeg or cinamon , musk and lots of cedar ... It seems the cousin of CdG 2, but with much less longevity.The smell itself is not bad at all but , in these terms, I prefer the original to the copy.
It doesn´t deserve to belong to the sacred lineage of Lutens.
23rd November, 2011

Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens

I´m not a big fan of the leather genre but this one, even being very loyal to a real moorish (and kinda crude) leather, I find it lovely.
The leather has the exact density and roughness that I need. The leather here is very well blended with spices, mild cinamon and orange peel to open itself to a more floral, fruited and semi-sweet development without losing the contact with a smooth morish leather.
One of the finest moorish leather.
21st November, 2011 (last edited: 05th December, 2011)

China White by Nasomatto

This is a half-dry and spiced white musk that seems to move around the edge of the clean-floral concept but from an exotic or avant-garde perspective.
The development oscillate between the clean and the aesthetic.
In some aspects, I get the dry-spicy aura of Antaeus, in others .. the soapy violet vibe of prada amber pour homme.
A strange work, hardly classifiable that suggests to me the analogy of a flower moon.
You have to try this!
21st November, 2011

Rive Gauche pour Homme Intense by Yves Saint Laurent

very similar to the original version, if anything , somewhat greener and sharper the first five minute, but once the initial stampede has passed the sweet breath of the river turn its way.It doesn´t worth owning the original.
Neutral rating because hardly changes or improves the original.
17th November, 2011

Bois de Turquie by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

One of the best takes on orris-root.
Great scent !! a relatively unknown perfume with a fruity-iris accord really estimable. good iris smell , not powdery or harsh , but a fruity/almondy and slighty creamy iris, swayed by a breeze of orange blossom, very wearable indeed and also with good longevity; although included in the pyramid of notes, I personally don´t notice the role of incense here.
big thumbs up for MPG!!
16th November, 2011

Rose 31 by Le Labo

Great work about an aerial and transparent rose. It´s clean , semi spiced, half fresh /half dry ... an unquestionable work of art.
I like the way that cedarwood works here and and gives it a sea breeze air.
one thought: maybe the creation is not about the rose flower , but about the concept of the beauty of the rose.
an absolute must have!
16th November, 2011

Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermès

lovely work of a minimalist white musk.
It gives you beauty, serenity, clarity, cleanliness..
simplicity and beauty in a work that reminds the eau de colognes of the past times with a lovely feeling.
I just want to have it !!
enormous Thumbs up for Monsieur Ellena!!
22nd April, 2011