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An unusual fragrance, with an unusual name: Black Amber. I was a little put off by the color of the juice, a kind of medicinal green. Coming from such an ancient house I suppose it is fitting. I think the name translates to Our Most Holiest Lady of the Annunciation Pharmacy. It starts out, like another reviewer mentions, camphorous. I call it menthol, but I think camphor better describes the note. As a fan of amber (Ambre Precieux, L'Eau d'Ambre) I was looking for the amber at the beginning, but it is hidden by the eucalyptus. After the fumes have dried down, the amber is finally revealed but not entirely. There is a sweet, powdery scent reminiscent of your grandmother's vanity table, or maybe medicine cabinet. It is not until hours later that the wonderful base of amber is fully revealed. And I don't want to wait that long. Commendable for its elegant composition, but just not for me. I prefer a straight up amber that I can layer if so desired.
18 September, 2011
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Giorgio caused a sensation when it was launched. I remember my mother coming home from a trip to New York in the mid-eighties. She and her best friend Olivia had both been sprayed at a department store with Giorgio, and I remember she said that EVERYONE would ask her what she was wearing. Even the cab driver, she remarked, asked us what perfume we had on. It was, and still is, a unique fragrance. Flowery to be sure, and yes it can be cloying, but certainly it ranks as one of the most unique and readily recognized fragrances of all time. Right up there with No. 5, Eternity, Opium, and Angel.
22 August, 2011
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The composition is slightly different than the original, and doesn't last that much longer. I find that the Concentre evolves as the hours (or hour) goes by. It settles into a unisex fraiche scent after the orange peel and lemon leaf disappear. This is definitely one that you will need to reapply after about two hours, so it would be useful to decant into a mini spray bottle. Fortunately for myself, mine is in the 1/2 ounce travel spray already. I suppose one could wear both the Eau and the Concentre, as I do the original Eau Sauvage and the Extreme.
04 April, 2011
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A sweeter, incensy version of my signature fragrance, Eau Sauvage. New York is a very original fragrance, don't get me wrong. It is loud, however, in a brash sort of way. Excellent longevity, but not much in the way of complexity. I find it linear. Kudos to Patricia de Nicolai for a wonderful, delicious fragrance. For me however, too much of two different things. If I want incensy and exotic I will stick to Timbuktu, which does it a bit better. If I want the citrus accords, I will go to my Eau Sauvage or perhaps Armani or Eau d'Orange Verte.
01st December, 2010 (Last Edited: 18 September, 2011)
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This was one favorites back in the eighties, along with Halston Limited, Antaeus, Polo, and of course my all-time favorite: Eau Sauvage. I just received a small spray bottle that I purchased online and I was completely blown away. It smells just as good now as it did then, and I am not just being nostalgic, as the olfactory recollection was not that strong. I get more of a flashback of childhood memories from the smell of crayons, or the smell of a musty window air conditioning unit that takes me back to vacations on the Mexican Riviera, than I do from a vintage cologne. This is totally a review that stands on its own. The scent of Metropolis is so fresh and new after all of these years. Yes, it is green, but the sage is not so pointed as cut grass or citrus leaf. And the middle notes: just a hint of floral, but in a masculine way, perhaps through the use of Hedione (dihydrojasmonate). Finally the leather, so light, like a new lambskin wallet as opposed to a new pair of cowboy boots. One of the many (underrated) masterpieces by Estee Lauder.
01st December, 2010
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I purchased this after reading Luca Turin's review as one of the top men's fragrances. It did not blow me away and was a little disappointed. Smells like a generic aquatic/water fragrance with a bit of a twist. Not the longest lasting either. Alright in a pinch. Glad I got the 1/4 ounce bottle.
27 October, 2010