styrax and woods
Mais Oui is a potent aldehydic floral with a strong personnality. Whereas I usually think that this kind of perfumes smell all the same , always trying to imitate Chanel No 5, here we have something more interesting. The fragrance is heavier and woodier than Chanel's and let appear a distinctive and harsh styrax note (now forbidden). Nowadays, it would rather be considered for men than for women.
Vintage Snuff : cold ashtray
My friends tell me it smells like a cold ashtray but I absolutely love it! Vintage Snuff (1939) is an unkown masterpiece for men on the Tobacco theme. It is not surprising because it's the surrealist period, when Elsa Schiaparelli called Roure and Jean Carles to make her new perfumes, strong, potent, daring, unconventionnal. Only Shocking became famous, but there were also Sleeping, Zut and Snuff.
Snuff was a green, bitter, harsh cigar with hints of leather, so strong that the cologne bottle smells all over the room (and it's only the cologne, not the perfume in its pipe bottle).
Very difficult to find, vintage Snuff reminds me Sous le Vent (Guerlain), because of its green bitter and animalic aspect.
I am smelling a very old bottle of Schiaparelli Sleeping. There are only a few drops in the bottle. Sleeping is a sweet ambery , like Shalimar, maybe spicier. The top notes are gone, but during a few minutes I have been able to smell some orange flower. I guess it was the perfumer's intention: with the amber base and this flower , to make something soporific or narcotic, with the name : "Sleeping". It's typically a 30's idea. I think that it has also been made by Jean Carles because it was launched the year after the great Shocking. It's also obvious that Elsa Schiaparelli was fascinated by Shalimar because in her perfumes list, there is somewhere an unknown " Shalimar de Chine"! (Maybe a mix of Shalimar and Crepe de Chine). She dared! The more I'm studying the Sciaparelli's frags, the more I love them.
Vintage Schiaparelli Salut can be resumed in two words: animalic lily. But be careful: it's a masterpiece. I think that lily was Elsa Schiaparelli's prefered flower because she had already launched S in 1928, which was an aldehydic floral on the lily theme, but not original at all. Here, it's another thing. The most impressive is the contrast between the animalic side a la Guerlain , with the civet , and the pale , shy, white flower: Salut is an extremely sophisticated perfume that gives the impression to be 2 different fragrances put together. Only the drydown is a little bit disappointing, with a classic musky indolic white flower, like in Balalaika (Lucien Lelong), or in Muguet des Bois (Coty).
Vintage Zut was way much better than the modern one from 1998. In 1937, Schiaparelli launches 2 fragrances: Schocking , which will become a huge success, an animalic oriental honeyed rose, and Zut.
Schocking was made by Roure and Jean Carles ( Tabu, Canoe, Miss Dior, Ma Griffe, ...)
I think Jean Carles made Zut too because it's obviously his excessive style.
Zut was half Russian leather half Shalimar. The opening was a potent leathery note of birch tar, as for example in the Lubin's Cuir de Russie, or in Jet (Corday). The drydown is a very soft ambery base a la Shalimar.
Zut was not as successful as Shocking but it's still very interesting to smell and to wear.
Emir was an amazing oriental leather, with a strange bitter note and a beautiful incense base. It was made by master parfumer Jean Carles in 1936 . It makes me think of Guerlain Sous Le Vent, which was made before, in 1933 so we can think that Carles has been influenced by Jacques Guerlain! Anyway, really worth a try.
I think that the intuition of Fath's Love is the same as Ma Griffe's (Carven). It's a classical floral bouquet mixed with spices like cinnamon. But Fath's Love 's top notes are much more potent and original: it's an explosion of spices, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg... Then the drydown becomes more classical and old fashionned but always with the spices in the background. Really worth a try because of its opening.
19th January, 2013 (last edited: 16th February, 2013)
It took me a long time to understand this perfume. I thought it was not a jasmine, because a jasmine soliflore for me was very different, like for example A la nuit ( Serge Lutens), which is the perfect scent of jasmine that you can smell at night for example in the gardens of La Marsa, Tunisia, in summer. BUT when you go there in november, you smell a completely different scent, sugared, a cristallized jasmine in a way: exactly Creed JIE!!! A true revelation!!
26th November, 2012 (last edited: 30th November, 2012)
wonderful fruity chypre, close to Patou Que Sais-Je
When you look at all the strong and heady tuberoses of the 80's: Panthère (Cartier), Lumière (Rochas), Michelle (Balenciaga), Azzaro 9, and, of course, Poison (Dior), you see that with no doubt, Jardins de Bagatelle is the best of them all: more original, more refined, perfectly feminine. I am never tired of smelling it, and that's the sign of a classic.
I am glad to be the first to review Revillon 4, an unknown perfume from the 70's. It has the greeness and the vivacious of Chanel 19, the sharpness of Vent vert, but in a more modern way, in fact it's really modern with the note that we wish to find in some new green , as for example Martin Magiella Untitled. This green floral is somehow fluorescent like Capucci Yendi but in a more natural way. You can also compare it to Balenciaga Cialenga but Revillon 4 is better because much younger and dynamic. Perfectly elegant but also psychedelic, you can sometimes find a bottle here or there, the bottle is wonderful, too. Strong impact and sillage. Need a try for all the green fans!
Extremely hard to find, Chasse gardee was an ambery floral spicy with a strong vetiver note in the drydown. It's so close to another vintage fragrance from 1946: Balmain Elysees 6483, that I suppose that they have been made by the same perfumer, Germaine Cellier (Fracas, Bandit, Vent vert, Jolie Madame, Fille d'Eve, Coeur Joie, Fleeting Moment,...). As a matter of fact, it eventually smells like Cacharel pour Homme.
I like it very much, but the best is its name: chasse gardée (closed hunting ?...)woaw
I think Ambra is misunderstood by the reviewers. Forget about Shalimar or Ambre114, Ambra is amber in the 19th century way, which is also the original way as we can see it with Eau des Merveilles: something salty. In Ambra this marine base is mixed with birch tar in an amazing way not very gothic but not modern either. Really worth a try for those who look for something original.
Laquer!! Yendi is laquer in a bottle! And that's what makes it different from the others green floral of this N 19 Chanel era. For all fragrances fans, the experience is worth a try.
Embrujo de Sevilla is an incredible leather, with tobacco (as it seems to me) and flowers. More floral than Tabac blond, less "dirty" than Lanvin Scandal and deeper than Chanel Cuir de Russie, it is an unknown masterpiece made by Jean Carles, the King of parfumers. Nowadays , it's very difficult to find, but it's worth a try! This is another work of Jean Carles, at the same period that he was about to make Tabu, Canoe or Shocking...
Well, this review is for aficionados of vintage and impossible to find perfumes. Bouquet de faunes is something extremely weird that smells like fur. It's a fur perfume, with strong and dark animalic notes. There is civet , castoreum and other bases that I don't know but it's not a classic leather.There is also an undergrowth note, that reminds the name of the fragrance. But it is very difficult to describe as it actually smells like nothing else. For me it's a fragrance family by itself. The result is darker than Tabac blond and heavier than Fracas, as you can guess by seeing the colour of the juice! But it's beautiful, it's like if you were digging in the woods under the leafs, the roots and the earth...
Androgynous. Mysterious. Completely in the Lanvin's tradition.Crescendo is an amazing scent, classified as a soliflore tuberose, but rather a spicy ambery floral with leather undertones. The only problem of Crescendo: it's not a 60's frag at all, but rather a 30's and that's why it was not successful. For example it smells like Weil Noir. A beautiful vintage.
For me the best launch in summer 10! Ninfeo mio is a very green fig with a strong green lemon opening, it's truly fascinating and the sillage is extremely powerful for a summer perfume. Can't live without it on these days!!
Another Joy, very beautiful, and without the animalic notes that you can find in Joy extract. You can compare it also to Guerlain Ode.
Awfully bad, the quintessence of the drugstore frag. Cheap, ordinary, a soapy fern as there are thousand others... And I am a Piguet fan!...
An amazing jasmine, Le Galion Jasmin is as deep and rich as Coty Jasmin de Corse, but more bright , white and indolic and joyful in the basenotes. A pure jasmine of the 30's. Today, there is only Lutens A la nuit, that can be compared to this one in terms of strengh.
Brumes is a classic and beautiful spiced ambery floral, in the same vein as Vol de Nuit, Caron En avion, Coty A Suma and many others. Witness of another era...
Vert et Blanc, alas discontinuated and extremely hard to find was an imitation of Miss Dior, but with more green top notes. Interesting for vintage fans.
I am roman catholic and this is exactly the smell of my church in the South of France after the sunday mass. But, ... I don't really feel for smelling mass...
So IMO, a very good frag to smell but not to wear...
The original Calypso, alas discontinuated is a very powerful floral, maybe a narcissus effect, with the same personnality as the others Piguet, a strong personnality, with an incredibly weird green note, but I think different from galbanum. It seems to be a 50's frag and I love it! For those who know it , it's like Guerlain Chypre 53. Piguet seems to reissue it but will it be the same??
For me the best Ellena ever, much better than Terre d'Hermes. It's really a leather but so dry, so polished, so modern, completely different from Cuir de Russie or Knize Ten, and it's a floral one with this evasive rose... Definitely unisex and the essence of Hermes, which has always been my favourite house.
For those who think that Miss Dior Cherie is just another stupid girly fruity scent, I suggest to compare it with Patou Colony, a beautiful vintage fruity chypre with a pineapple effect, from the 30's... They are nearly the same, with the Dior a little bit more sparkling! I am a vintage fan, but Miss Dior Cherie is good!!!
Fille d'Eve, of course discontinuated, is an incredibly beautiful chypre, with a very strong personnality, because it has been created by Germaine Cellier, who made also Fracas and Bandit, for example. The chypre note is here mixed with a strong and strange costus note (costus is nowadays forbidden), which is somewhere between the plaster and the goat!!! A must try for all the vintage fans, and for anyone who is a little bit curious!
Metalys/metallica (forget about the hard rock band problem!) is all about carnation.There is an important tradition of carnation in Guerlains particularly in Fleur de feu, Atuana and Faena, discontinuated. And Jean-Paul Guerlain has been very faithful to this tradition in this wonderful floral
the essence of clean! actually a must have! and the bottle is gorgeous!