I love the cardamon in this! It's what jumped out at me at first, balanced beautifully with earthy cinnamon and peppery spice layered over cedary woods. I didn't notice the bergamot much but to me it blended nicely with the prominent cardamon. On me it was not overly sweet or foody, but it is perhaps overpriced. OK very overpriced, which is why I don't yet own it. I need to sample it further before I could think of buying it retail. Good lasting power too.
After it blooms on the skin, this is a lovely and classic sweetish floral chypre. The violet is creamy but a bit too candied for me--there's this almost too-sweet edge which rounds out the woods and spice and at times overbalances the composition for me. Nevertheless I appreciate this scent in principle and might on other people as well.
I was suprised to like this on me as much as I did, but maybe I shouldn't have been. It started out with a greenish complex citrus burst, then settled to an airy cool herbaceous spice grounded in clean musk, exotic in a new way, never too cologne-y for me although I do go for masculine scents. I smelled it on my scarf the next day and it was a bit generic after it had completely dried down, but oh, the journey...
I would give this a half-up if I could. This was a pleasant rich (as csp goes) grapey scent, a bit too sweet and fruity, with some amount of depth/complexity in the background (orchid, woods) but ultimately Frapin 1270 is a much more balanced grape/woods/spices etc 'fume, in the same family, and as I already own it, I don't want PM.
This is the most wearable everyday Caron I own (PS am female). It's a real morpher--wet it starts with an almost medicinal blast of lavender, but that quickly fades into a vanillic warm amber base with a bit of lavender floating on top. Unexpected from sniffing the bottle, but quite lovely, and to me very reminiscent of POTL although less sweet/almondy. It's a sophisticated, slightly complex, but warm and deliciously unfoody drydown. I have the 4.2 oz bottle, masculine design and pleasingly hefty. If I ever win another gift certificate, I want the honkin-big 85-dollar 30-oz VAT of this.
i love all colors of pepper in real life, and loooove Caron Poivre, so I was expecting a piquant/ picante scent. Something with kick, and life , and daring. What i got in poivre piquant was a neutral, rather than warm, and aqueous-fuzzy, rather than sharp and dry, very 'white' pepper-herbal-airy scent. Not offensive at all, but not enchanting or beguiling or the slightest bit out-there... I suppose it is somewhat unique, but I would not buy the trio for it. Edt strength probably does not help matters.
I love this scent! It starts out even smokier than Bvlgari Black on me (and the comparison in the first review is apt). It quickly settles into a more tea-smoky and less cigarette-smoky smell and then the honey and spices come out to mingle... the smokiness keeps it from being too sweet, like Ginestet Botrytis can sometimes be, and the tea and mild spice notes lend a refreshing naturalness to what could have been a very cloying composition.
Many find this scent to be a breathtakingly beautiful compositon, a perfect play between the cedary woods int he background and the greenish sweet violet in the fore. I found it merely breathtaking--as in cloyingly sweet, the way violet scents can get. No woods show up on me unil hours in, and the violet is more confection than flower. I much prefer Keiko Mecheri's Genie du Bois (which may be using SL for 'inspiration), in which the woods are much stronger and slightly spicy and powdery, and the violet shrinks to the edges.
My favorite after Seve Exquise, this scent is a morpher and also quite unique. It begins cool and smoky and woody (agarwood, I think--a harsher, smoky, non-spicy wood) . The smoke here actually smells like cigarettes for a few minutes, more so than anything else (eg Tea For Two by L'artisan). It then blends with 'desert blooms'--I can't tell what, but these florals are deep and almost fruity, and play in the smoke beautifully. Not heady, not warm, not a skin-scent but not typically 'perfumy' either, this scent is, for lack of a better term, unique. It is very evocative, like SE, of actually being somewhere else and having an experience (ie a desert evening, smelling campfires, wind, and plants). I think distribution and possibly production were halted because they did not have much mass appeal. That could also have to do with the outrageous price and lack of advertising, but there is something to it--I don't think this would ever be someone's everyday signature scent. But it is beautiful, if somewhat fleeting.
Thumbs WAY up! This is my absolute favorite of the Gobin-Daude line, which has become virtually impossible to find in the US. It's called "exquisite sap" for a good reason--it is beyond exquisite, a gentle, fresh, tender green scent like the beginning of spring, like new growth. It wafts softly and remains rounded and gentle throughout its evolution, never becoming a harsh chypre nor too-fresh ozonic: it begins almost lemony-creamy, and frsh-leafy, and continues to a green place that is not so much green woods as truly 'sap'-like, sweet and golden-green....it takes me to a wonderful place, lying on soft grass looking up at the sunlight filtering through a lush leafy canopy rustling gently in the breeze....
Pros: Daring, unique scent, redolent of cumin and hay (maybe tobacco?), 'cooks' on the skin to lose some of the initial harshness and become warm like a clean barn (the name means Doe among the Absinthe)
Cons: Cumin.And sharp grassy/herbal smell. And Cumin. I like it, but in this quantity it can be a bit much, even though it never crosses over into BO. Also, 135 is WAY too much for anything short of MKK, PoTL, or a pure parfum.
These balance out for me, and I wear my decant once in a blue moon, so neatral it is.
Many have loved this scent, which is why I'm reluctant to give a thumbs-down. Maybe my sample was stale or something, but this perfume could have been great. It was like a peach--like the velvety fuzzy skin of a peach, with floral accompaniment and a warm drydown. However, it went off on my skin, with a jagged boozy edge and a cloying heat. try before you buy!
I just sampled this fragrance after remembering some positive reviews of it elsewhere, and after spending five minutes sniffing my arm, I had to buy it. Theorema is a light oriental fragrance--light meaning visualized almost as a golden color, not light as in jo malone or edt strength (in edp I can smell traces 24 hours later). Others have named the notes as tangelo, which is like orange (not sharp, more creamy), pepper/nutmeg/cinnamon/spices, vanillic amber/musk, woodsiness, and some florals in there somewhere... despite the 'typical' heavy oriental lineup the scent is not heavy or dark, just warm and inviting. It is blended well together and I had difficulty picking out anything except muted pepper, sweetness, muted ambery musky woods later in the drydown, and now many hours later a clean skin sort of smell. This is not a skin scent--it *is* perfumey and should be sprayed moderately, but I found it quite a lovely and inviting fall/winter oriental. It is being phased out of the US market but can easily be found online at discount sites (shop around).
The name means Honey of Wood, and the notes are white honey and dark woods and other things I did not actually smell in it. At first sniff this did not repulse me, but on me and several others the scent's honey morphed into an odor reminiscent of urine. Apparently this happens to many--so *sample* first! The honey in this scent is not the sweet warm honey in Chergui; rather it gives a slightly sweet beeswaxy smell to the dark woods. Kind of like old, expensive furniture--definitely unisex, and might work better with male chemistry. Interesting conceptually, but even if one does not react with disgust, this doesn't seem like the type of scent to inspire cries of elation at having found one's Holy Grail.
Although I am sure many will love Lutens' newest creation in the export line, I was incredibly disappointed. Cedre is supposed to marry cedar to a tuberose opening and some warm spices--hmm, interesting, maybe I'll go find a store which carries it and check it out in person, I thought. So I went to Aedes and spritzed. Tuberose--overly sweet but not nauseatingly heady. So I decided to wait for the drydown, which would of course be luscious cedar. Sadly, no. The scent did not develop on me at all, but remained saccharine tuberose. Ick.
However, some people have found the tuberose tame and the composition balanced. Lucky them.
I found Chergui to be less original than I had hoped--it kept reminding me of some other scent, and I kept feeling like it was *just* on the tip of my nose. I prefer Lutens' more striking scents like Muscs Koublai Khan and Vetiver Oriental, and even his herbal 'dirty' Ambre Sultan.
That said, I do enjoy Chergui--it is honey with incense and smoky spices, and some warm hay-like tones. It's in the same 'family' as L'Artisan Tea for Two (which I found much more unique and also enjoy) and Ginestet Botrytis and Escada Collection (but less cloying). What makes Chergui somewhat distinct is what I think of as Lutens-accord, which isn't so much common basenotes as a common touch, a way of creating depth and warmth in a fragrance while at the same time maintaining a transparency to the notes and an airiness throughout the entire progression of the fragrance without monster sillage. Jo Malone seems to exemplify this trend--perhaps it is a trend--and take it a step further into more of a 'clean' feeling, whereas Lutens still creates sensual skin scents.
This scents stars vetiver, with a supporting cast of freshness, muskiness, and darkness. I have a partial bell jar and it makes me happy. The scent seems straightforward--vetiver, right?--until you realize how amazingly well-crafted it is. The vetiver manages to be fresh at first, then darker, muskier, almost chocolaty--while still retaining its fresh greenness! It's like stroking a plant leaf to stem to root but holding on to the tips of the green leaves even as you dig in the rich earth at its roots. In terms of temeperature, it starts out thin and a bit cooling like many vetivers but 'cooks' quickly and ends up 'hot' like a great skin scent should be, in my opinion. And yet the vetiver does not wilt in the heat or disappear in the supporting cast--it flourishes. It retains an airiness throughout. I love Muscs Koublai Khan and while these are very different scents--mkk is raunchy where VO is classy and cerebral--I think they both possess a musky, androgynous heat of which I am quite enamored.
This is not a typical woody sandalwood, but it is a great and unique scent. It starts out on me smelling like celery and sweetish curry. This is a good thing. Although, if it were anyone but Lutens executing the scent, it would probably fail miserably. In the drydown the fragrance develops a richness and sweetness along with the spicing and what read as celery seems to morph and register as fresh dry sandalwood. It's not as sweet as Chergui but does feel slightly similar in terms of layering. I enjoy this scent and find it versatile and fun--the twists and turns are never quite the same, but it's not a moody fragrance, it's sunny and bright.
I never really thought of perfume as sexy until I wore this. Smelling this on my hand makes me want to slather it on a man and.......
uh yeah so this is my favorite Lutens creation. It is, like most of his fragrances, truly unisex--I think it would enhance equally the femininity or masculinity of the wearer. In moderation, it can be worn almost anywhere.
It is animalic yet sweet and persistent, and have a rough, vital, yet reflective personality. This, to me, is the musc to end all musks. It isn't fussed up with florals or spices or herbs or soapiness. It's drrrrty! In a glorious, delicious way, like naked skin heated up by the lazy morning sun in a languid morning after a vigorous night. Raw sensuality is right!
Truth was my first department-store love when I was in school and only the pretentious french girl wore high end perfume (angel, enough to smother a bull elephant). I got it as a present from my mother and still have it, although I don't wear it much. It starts with the freshness of cut grass and flowers but there's an artifice and sharpness to that opening, and indeed to the entire thing, that wasn't on the scent strips in magazines and that gives me splitting headaches. Had it beenn executed better, or even smelled like the impossibly green warm vanilla I thought it would be, I would give it a thumbs up. And since I did once love it I cannot give it a thumbs down. So neautral it is.
This is a complex and soft citrus scent. It is not 'bergamot' like Earl Grey tea-- it's lemony and soft and greenish. It starts with a tart but not sharp burst of citrus/orange and softens but on me still lingers for about two hours--which for an ephemeral citrus scent is pretty good.
This is such a yummy, soft scent! like wearing a beautiful, soft, well-worm sweater. It manages to be warm without relying on spices, and to be transparent and fresh without marine, ozone, or excessive greenness. It does have florals but mostly heliotrope and iris, which aren't typically 'flowery'-- on me it starts out blended citrus-floral-powdery musk and ends up almost like carmelized light musk, if that makes sense. I would call this a four-season fragrance!
I love this scent and find it fairly linear--no moody twists, just a slow 'cookng' as it warms up and softens and blooms on the skin. The spices (cinnamon, cloves, other) start out sharp but lose that edge after a few minutes, and then the oppopanax--which to me smells like musky vanilla-amber-woodsy--heats up and envelops the spices. It smells like an oriental skin scent. Moderation is key if one does not wish to smell like holiday potpourri. I would love this on a man.
This is a weird scent--DO NOT buy unsniffed! I got mine as a free sample. It smelled like bad breath in the bottle. I figured it would develop. Every so often when I tried it on, it would smell good--like a unique flower on a warm-person base. But then it would morph back into overly-pungent-odor-of-various-orifices. It did eventually fade away but it was largely an unpleasant experience.
Bellodgia is a carnation scent but not quite a soliflore. It has other florals in the heart and a warm spicy Caron-accord in the base. I do find the sillage can be a bit much, but with restrained application or the parfum extrait I think it would be fine for close quarters. It also comes in a lotion. I find this a lush carnation perfume, well-blended and grounded without being too heady or too spicy. The extrait I have is softer than the edp, which smells fresher, greener, and more flowery.
Nuit de Noel in extrait is a lovely, soft, hard-to-describe fragrance. It was the first (i think) to use a synthetic called Mousse de Saxe which gives a mossy woody undertone to the scent. This is not a chypre, however; on me it is a bit smoky and a little warm vanilla-nutty on a cooler base of woodsiness and soft spices. It morphs in 'temperature' and main scent. I have never tried it in the edt which may be very different. The extrait comes in a black flask-like bottle, sometimes with a wonderfull green case.
Although this is not my favorite violet, it is a great scent--clean, green, violet-y, a bit sweet and a bit dark in the drydown. it is neither candied nor herbal nor soapy, like so many violet scents-- on me it's a clean skin scent with a twist of gentle yet firm violets...if that makes any sense. On me it does not have the heat I usually associate with Caron (in scents like Parfum Sacre, Bellodgia, and Poivre) but it does have some of the 'depth', even as a single-note perfume.
I can't believe I haven't reviewed my favorite Caron! I first encountered Poivre in the Mad Ave boutique a year and a half ago. I had gone in to see if I could sample the d/c extrait of Parfum Sacre (did! they still had a tester although it was not for sale) and to try Nuit de Noel. I was drawn to the urns, and took my time sniffing around. They were all nice, but when I got to Poivre, I *had* to try it on my arm. And once it dried, after sniffing ecstatically for 10 minutes, I *had* to make a really expensive impulse buy. Poivre is so good though that I rarely feel guilty. It starts out with a hot peppery clove note that mellows into a warm spicy carnation, pepper, spice, and vanilla aura. Poivre manages to be unique and innovative, but classic and classy, an of course (to me) downright sexy. I have also come to love Bellodgia, which is a much cooler carnation scent, and Coup de Fouet, the edt version of Poivre (not as warm but still nice)
24th March, 2005 (last edited: 31st March, 2006)