Reviews by cosmopolit

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    cosmopolit
    Sweden Sweden

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    Don Corleone by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    This is my favourite masculine floral, and I would never have guessed that it would be tuberose!

    Don Corleone plays off of Abdes Salaam's masterful hand with tobacco, and features a fantastic, fleshy, rich (but not too sweet) tuberose absolute. The closest comparison I can come up with is with HdP Tubereuse 3, but the Don is drier, simpler and more tobacco oriented. It is much more wearable in my opinion. The drydown features an equally rich and subtle vanilla.

    I have no particular philosophical orientation towards all-natural scents, but Abdes Salaam's compositions have won me over with their simplicity, purity and modesty. This is an ideal house through which to experiment with new scent experiences, and one can only be impressed by Abdes Salaam's mastery of his craft and generosity of spirit.

    21st March, 2012

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    Eau du Fier by Annick Goutal

    Eau du Fier is an uncompromising scent for those who love smoky birch tar in a dry, non-animalic setting.

    I have been thinking about why I love this scent, in the context of Off Scenter's review below. What is remarkable to me is the top and mid-note lineup of this fragrance: bitter orange, mint, osmanthus, clove, tea. All of these are easily discernable in the development of the scent.

    What Eau du Fier is not: sweet (vanilla, tonka, amber) and animalic. The result is often perceived as synthetic (rubbery, etc) by those who do not love the coolness of the blend. But for those who are looking for birch tar in an absolutely unique context, this scent satisfies.

    In many ways, this can be seen as the bass version of something like Lutens Daim Blond, which also combines apricot (osmanthus) and suede leather (in fact, I have tried layering the two, which extends each scent by an octave in each direction).

    Along with Sables, one of the best Goutal fragrances.

    07 July, 2011 (Last Edited: 08 August, 2011)

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    Tobacco & Tulle by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

    I came across T&T while searching tobacco fragrances (though I am not sure why). My search let me to the artisanal fragrance houses of AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo and Liz Zorn, both of whom seem to deal especially well with tobacco absolute.

    That said, I would not consider T&T to be a tobacco fragrance per se (if that is what you are looking for, check out Tabac or Chilum from AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo or Meerschaum from Liz Zorn).

    T&T is an animalic fragrance, heavy on cumin (and hyrax urine tincture) that also integrates tobacco and tuberose in a wonderful manner. It is like the sweat of the gods.

    I should also say that I have found my Liz Zorn samples to be a mixed bag, some (Vanillaville, Oud Lacquer) quite medicinal and not interesting. But T&T is inspired.

    07 July, 2011 (Last Edited: 07 August, 2011)

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    1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

    Besides the evocation of early motor racing/Bond films (love it, Foustie!), the leather and pipe tobacco of this wonderful fragrance really takes me back to my dad's university office, c. 1963.

    I don't think 1740 compares that well to other more straight-ahead leather fragrances (nobody is going to mistake it for Oud Cuir dArabie, for example). 1740's blend of resin, spices, tobacco and leather is much closer to something like Ambre Russe, though AR is brighter, with more tea and gingerbread. 1740 is darker, richer and plummier, probably due to the inclusion of immortelle, which underpins the earlier development. A beautifully rendered immortelle emerges in a more singular way (along with patchouli) in the later drydown, which ought to seal the deal for loves of that note.

    I have changed my review to a neutral rating, as 1740 becomes to powdery for me in the midnotes, which prompted me to swap my bottle.

    19 October, 2010 (Last Edited: 22 May, 2012)

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