Fragrance Reviews
Fragrance Reviews by rach2jlc
Showing all 128 reviews
Cubano Silver by Victory International
Amongst cheap fragrances, Cubano Gold is an instant classic... deep, rich, warm tobacco with good longevity at a great price.
I expected Silver to be something in the same line, perhaps fresher and crisper, but keeping with the theme of tobacco or cigars.
Instead, I got something minty, spicey, and a little fruity/citrusy without tobacco that I can find. In and of itself, this might be good, but the combo doesn't work too well here. It feels powdery, dry, a little metallic, and not too pleasant, almost like a cheap version of MPG Centaur.
I expected Silver to be something in the same line, perhaps fresher and crisper, but keeping with the theme of tobacco or cigars.
Instead, I got something minty, spicey, and a little fruity/citrusy without tobacco that I can find. In and of itself, this might be good, but the combo doesn't work too well here. It feels powdery, dry, a little metallic, and not too pleasant, almost like a cheap version of MPG Centaur.
27 September 2008
Apparition Homme by Ungaro
This is a review for the INTENSE version, also by Polge and released in 2007. It's a little more "oriental" than the original, playing up a little more vanilla/amber instead of the fresher, crisper notes.
Nevertheless, this doesn't make it any less generic and ho-hum than the other reviews of the original. It's not a BAD fragrance, by any means, it's just not something that sticks out on one's shelf or to one's nose.
It feels something like it wants to be Gucci PH II, but isn't as sexy, deep, or fun. Instead, it feels like PH II's shy cousin, hiding out in the corners at the dance.
Definitely not one to scour the earth in search of, but a safe, decent one if you find a bottle at discount.
Nevertheless, this doesn't make it any less generic and ho-hum than the other reviews of the original. It's not a BAD fragrance, by any means, it's just not something that sticks out on one's shelf or to one's nose.
It feels something like it wants to be Gucci PH II, but isn't as sexy, deep, or fun. Instead, it feels like PH II's shy cousin, hiding out in the corners at the dance.
Definitely not one to scour the earth in search of, but a safe, decent one if you find a bottle at discount.
26 September 2008
Sandalsliver by Montale
Technically, my bottle is labeled "Skin," but I believe this is just the older name for Sandalsliver.
I'm surprised that nobody yet has commented on the similarity to YSL Nu EdP. I find them both very similar, though the YSL is a little more velvety and syrupy. The Montale is a bit more sultry and sticks closer to the skin.
This is a strange scent overall, as is the YSL. Very unisex, it stays close to the body and yet has a certain sweetness that is not at all "skin" like. I can't say amongst Montale scents this one ranks terribly high, but it is a very interesting one for others who like deep, slightly dark, skin scents.
I'm surprised that nobody yet has commented on the similarity to YSL Nu EdP. I find them both very similar, though the YSL is a little more velvety and syrupy. The Montale is a bit more sultry and sticks closer to the skin.
This is a strange scent overall, as is the YSL. Very unisex, it stays close to the body and yet has a certain sweetness that is not at all "skin" like. I can't say amongst Montale scents this one ranks terribly high, but it is a very interesting one for others who like deep, slightly dark, skin scents.
21 December 2007
Osmanthus by Different Company
This one is quite light and unexpectedly pleasant, considering the punch that Rose Poivree and Bois d'iris pack. BUT, it isn't fleeting and it doesn't lack substance, but instead is very subtle and inviting, much in the same way that Creed Neroli Sauvage requires a lot of time and a lot of close sniffing really to get what's going on beyond the surface.
It's my least favorite of the Ellena TDC Trio (Bois d'iris, Osmanthus, Rose Poivree), but it is still a wonderful fragrance and worth the time of locating.
It's my least favorite of the Ellena TDC Trio (Bois d'iris, Osmanthus, Rose Poivree), but it is still a wonderful fragrance and worth the time of locating.
10 December 2007
Bois d'Iris by Different Company
TDC seems to me to cover all the bases and create "the best" with each type of scent it makes. Rose Poivree is easily one of the best rose scents available, Jasmin de Nuit takes the eponymous note in new directions, and Osmanthus is light, subtle, yet very warm and deep without being too floral.
Bois d'iris follows in this trend and, quite simply, creates one of the most unique, interesting, and inviting iris experiences on the market. I've had Hiris, I've had Dior Homme, I've had Prada Infusion d'iris and enjoyed them all, but none of them come close to this one. It's got the crispness of the others, the hint of luxe, but also that tiny touch of quirk that Ellena puts in all his signature scents that takes them to a higher level.
Simply a MUST for any fan of the Iris note.
Bois d'iris follows in this trend and, quite simply, creates one of the most unique, interesting, and inviting iris experiences on the market. I've had Hiris, I've had Dior Homme, I've had Prada Infusion d'iris and enjoyed them all, but none of them come close to this one. It's got the crispness of the others, the hint of luxe, but also that tiny touch of quirk that Ellena puts in all his signature scents that takes them to a higher level.
Simply a MUST for any fan of the Iris note.
10 December 2007
Jasmin de Nuit by Different Company
I didn't think Jasmin-based fragrances got any better than Creed's Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie, but TDC manages to do it with this one. Less heavy than the Creed, the TDC has a subtle, soft warmth that is quite unisex (unlike most jasmine fragrances, which feel too "girlish.")
A description won't do it justice; just try it to see for yourself. Rich, warm, inviting, without being too sweet or heavy, this is Jasmin par excellence.
A description won't do it justice; just try it to see for yourself. Rich, warm, inviting, without being too sweet or heavy, this is Jasmin par excellence.
10 December 2007
Vanille Cannelle by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
This one does feel like Christmas with the sweetness of vanilla balanced with the warm spice of cinammon. I'm wearing it today (in mid December) and it's getting me ready for the holidays to come!
Of the four or five CSP Vanilles I've tried, I like this one the best. Definitely not as versatile as some of the others, given that it really works best in wintertime, nevertheless it does have excellent richness, depth, and balance.
Definitely give this one a try if you are CSP fan, a vanilla fan, or a fan of cinammon.
Of the four or five CSP Vanilles I've tried, I like this one the best. Definitely not as versatile as some of the others, given that it really works best in wintertime, nevertheless it does have excellent richness, depth, and balance.
Definitely give this one a try if you are CSP fan, a vanilla fan, or a fan of cinammon.
09 December 2007
Vanille Peach by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
If you love peach, but lament the degree to which many "bath and body works" -esque shops create light, fleeting scents with poor quality synthetics, then this is the peach for you.
It's not playful, light, or fleeting; instead, it is quite rich, warm, and deep. It's very sweet, but not cloying, and is balanced enough to keep from feeling too feminine or something you'd rather use as air freshener.
Nevertheless, if fruit and vanilla turn you off, then this will still not satisfy. But, if you want a peach with punch, then this is it.
It's not playful, light, or fleeting; instead, it is quite rich, warm, and deep. It's very sweet, but not cloying, and is balanced enough to keep from feeling too feminine or something you'd rather use as air freshener.
Nevertheless, if fruit and vanilla turn you off, then this will still not satisfy. But, if you want a peach with punch, then this is it.
08 December 2007
Kiss Him by KISS
You might remember the Phaeton, the car from Volkswagen that flopped massively in the US a few years ago. Oddly, it didn't flop because it was a bad car (everyone who drove or owned one loved them), but instead because it was completely ill suited to its intended market. Those who could afford the $75K price tag wouldn't even consider a VW, while those would consider a VW couldn't afford the 75K asking price.
I think of KISS Him as the cologne version of the Phaeton, equally ill suited to its intended market. It's actually a nifty little fragrance, with plenty of kick and oomph, an oddly niche-like scent packaged in mass-market low-rent. I'm afraid those that will get the subtle oddity of the fragrance (through the cumin note mentioned in these reviews) will also be fans who like McQ Kingdom, Lutens MKK, or Diptyque L'autre. But, will these buyers even THINK to sniff a fragrance bottled like this and marked "KISS?" I doubt it.
In fact, I only sniffed it because a fellow Bnoter whose nose I trust sent me some and told me, "give it a sniff." Otherwise, I'd never have tried it.
Likewise, it seems to me that those who would be into a KISS scent, or into a mass-market designer/celebrity scent will NEVER get into the odd combination of notes. They'll be looking for the typical marine/detergent/"clean" vibe and this one has sweat and sweet in high doses.
Sadly, like the Phaeton, I predict it will disappear before its time. I'm still pretty impressed with the scent, in all its stinky goodness, but I just don't see it making the grade.
I think of KISS Him as the cologne version of the Phaeton, equally ill suited to its intended market. It's actually a nifty little fragrance, with plenty of kick and oomph, an oddly niche-like scent packaged in mass-market low-rent. I'm afraid those that will get the subtle oddity of the fragrance (through the cumin note mentioned in these reviews) will also be fans who like McQ Kingdom, Lutens MKK, or Diptyque L'autre. But, will these buyers even THINK to sniff a fragrance bottled like this and marked "KISS?" I doubt it.
In fact, I only sniffed it because a fellow Bnoter whose nose I trust sent me some and told me, "give it a sniff." Otherwise, I'd never have tried it.
Likewise, it seems to me that those who would be into a KISS scent, or into a mass-market designer/celebrity scent will NEVER get into the odd combination of notes. They'll be looking for the typical marine/detergent/"clean" vibe and this one has sweat and sweet in high doses.
Sadly, like the Phaeton, I predict it will disappear before its time. I'm still pretty impressed with the scent, in all its stinky goodness, but I just don't see it making the grade.
07 December 2007
Philosykos by Diptyque
This one is one of the best figs out there, but could gain or lose appeal depending on how wet/heavy you like your figs.
This one is very wet, very woody; it does for figs and wood what Voleur de Rose does for wet patchouli and rose.
It is a little heavy to wear in warmer weather, but is so pleasant in the cooler temps that it hardly matters. It stays warm and close, but never gets too food-ish, as do many fig fragrances.
For all around durability, I still like Anthosa Fig&Vetiver the best amongst the figs I've tried (and I was never really a big fan of the L'artisan), but this one is a definite must if you like the fig note.
This one is very wet, very woody; it does for figs and wood what Voleur de Rose does for wet patchouli and rose.
It is a little heavy to wear in warmer weather, but is so pleasant in the cooler temps that it hardly matters. It stays warm and close, but never gets too food-ish, as do many fig fragrances.
For all around durability, I still like Anthosa Fig&Vetiver the best amongst the figs I've tried (and I was never really a big fan of the L'artisan), but this one is a definite must if you like the fig note.
25 November 2007
Le Parfum by Viktor & Rolf
I always thought that Helmut Lang's unbelievably expensive "non-scent" Velviona (a $300, limited release fragrance with a single synthetic musk that was barely perceptible on the skin) was the oddest conceptual art/fragrance creation ever done.
Then I saw the V&R and realized that they had topped Helmut.
Neat idea, but something that should have stayed on the drawing board. It's hardly one that can be reviewed here, as it can't be worn. It's more a piece of sculpture or conceptual art that fits into V&R's aesthetic of quirky, classic femininity... something like a postmodern French take on Comme des Garcons (which itself took a lot from French couture). I think V&R would get the appeal of being a copy of a copy of a copy... which in many ways is sort of what this "parfum" seems to be.
Then I saw the V&R and realized that they had topped Helmut.
Neat idea, but something that should have stayed on the drawing board. It's hardly one that can be reviewed here, as it can't be worn. It's more a piece of sculpture or conceptual art that fits into V&R's aesthetic of quirky, classic femininity... something like a postmodern French take on Comme des Garcons (which itself took a lot from French couture). I think V&R would get the appeal of being a copy of a copy of a copy... which in many ways is sort of what this "parfum" seems to be.
25 November 2007
Antidote by Viktor & Rolf
Flowerbomb is very nice, but Antidote leaves me wondering, "What's the point?" V&R's fashion is classy, reserved, but with a hint of zest and quirk. Antidote is classy, warm, and a little gourmandish/creamy, but where's the quirk? Where's the playfulness?
It's also a little hard to make out what's going on, but looking at the scent pyramid, it's easy to see why. There's just TOO MUCH going on here, and as I've said of some other scents that seem to have too much going on, it's almost as if the parfumeurs decided that "if five classic notes together are good, then fifty will be great!"
Sometimes, that's the case, but I'm not so sure it is with this one. Something that I'd put in the same universe, but that does the classy/mysterious vibe a lot better, would be L'instant de Guerlain PH. Save the extra $$$ and go with the Guerlain.
It's also a little hard to make out what's going on, but looking at the scent pyramid, it's easy to see why. There's just TOO MUCH going on here, and as I've said of some other scents that seem to have too much going on, it's almost as if the parfumeurs decided that "if five classic notes together are good, then fifty will be great!"
Sometimes, that's the case, but I'm not so sure it is with this one. Something that I'd put in the same universe, but that does the classy/mysterious vibe a lot better, would be L'instant de Guerlain PH. Save the extra $$$ and go with the Guerlain.
25 November 2007
Coriolan by Guerlain
I find myself at a loss to describe it, but I like it very much. It has less oomph than some of the other Guerlain men's fragrances (especially Heritage and Habit Rouge), but holds its own next to them and, in fact, ranks as perhaps my favorite men's Guerlain offering.
This one is earthier, quieter, less business-like than the others. It works a little better for me in cooler weather, as in the summer it never really seemed to do much on me and its subtlety was lost. In fact, when I first bought my bottle, it was summer, and I was quite disappointed when I sprayed it on. Later that year, spraying it again reminded me that when I had first tested it (and loved it) it had also been in winter.
I can only say give it a try if you are a Guerlain fan to see for yourself. No description will really do it justice, because IMO it changes character more than the other Guerlains, as well. Sadly, it's no longer on the market, but it is quite easily obtained inexpensively online. A must for the Guerlain fan and perhaps one that falls directly into the "love it or hate it" category.
This one is earthier, quieter, less business-like than the others. It works a little better for me in cooler weather, as in the summer it never really seemed to do much on me and its subtlety was lost. In fact, when I first bought my bottle, it was summer, and I was quite disappointed when I sprayed it on. Later that year, spraying it again reminded me that when I had first tested it (and loved it) it had also been in winter.
I can only say give it a try if you are a Guerlain fan to see for yourself. No description will really do it justice, because IMO it changes character more than the other Guerlains, as well. Sadly, it's no longer on the market, but it is quite easily obtained inexpensively online. A must for the Guerlain fan and perhaps one that falls directly into the "love it or hate it" category.
24 November 2007
Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford
I'll be honest; I had much higher expectations for something with Tom's name on it. Yes, I understand it is intended for a mainstream audience... and priced accordingly. And, in that vein, it's heads and tails more interesting than your average Lacoste, Burberry, Kenneth Cole, or RL. But, again, this is Tom's signature fragrance and the one that will be smelled by the most people, so pardon me if I still had high expectations.
So, yes, I was a little disappointed to get something that feels very soft/warm, very flat, and very fleeting. I kept waiting for it to do SOMETHING, to go somewhere, to give me some of the romance that Ford does so well (where is the sexiness of Gucci PH, M7, or YSL RGPH?) I didn't get any of that here... I just kept sniffing myself and... waiting.
Black Orchid is wonderful and I loved it at first sniff, as I have several of the pricey private line. I wanted to love this one, but just don't think it's worth it. I'll try the Extreme, but if the initial EDT version is just an excuse to get Tom some free publicity by putting out an inferior product (while putting all his hopes in the $$$ Extreme version), then that just doesn't cut it.
So, yes, I was a little disappointed to get something that feels very soft/warm, very flat, and very fleeting. I kept waiting for it to do SOMETHING, to go somewhere, to give me some of the romance that Ford does so well (where is the sexiness of Gucci PH, M7, or YSL RGPH?) I didn't get any of that here... I just kept sniffing myself and... waiting.
Black Orchid is wonderful and I loved it at first sniff, as I have several of the pricey private line. I wanted to love this one, but just don't think it's worth it. I'll try the Extreme, but if the initial EDT version is just an excuse to get Tom some free publicity by putting out an inferior product (while putting all his hopes in the $$$ Extreme version), then that just doesn't cut it.
24 November 2007
Frank No. 1 by Frank Los Angeles
I'm with several others and can't find the appeal. It's not BAD, by any means, but it just never really rises to anything distinctive.
There's a LOT going on in this scent, but the mass of notes seems to me to blend together into something rather dull and flat, much in the same way mixing fifty different colors together will give a dull shade of brown, or fifty different sounds will give a single dull tone.
Each of the notes, individually, might be something nice, but a little goes a long way and more isn't always better.
There's a LOT going on in this scent, but the mass of notes seems to me to blend together into something rather dull and flat, much in the same way mixing fifty different colors together will give a dull shade of brown, or fifty different sounds will give a single dull tone.
Each of the notes, individually, might be something nice, but a little goes a long way and more isn't always better.
24 November 2007
Bois du Portugal by Creed
This one doesn't need any more positive reviews, but it really is a wonderful scent. Unlike many scents that I like at first but, slowly, start to enjoy less and less, BdP becomes better the longer I'm around it. It's an almost perfectly balanced fragrance, there are woods, there is a little spice, and there is plenty of depth and warmth.
It definitely is a more "mature" fragrance, but easily compliments the wardrobe of a man who likes Chanel PM, GIT, Cuiron, or Knize Ten.
A classic that, unlike most fragrances, is definitely worth the time and money.
It definitely is a more "mature" fragrance, but easily compliments the wardrobe of a man who likes Chanel PM, GIT, Cuiron, or Knize Ten.
A classic that, unlike most fragrances, is definitely worth the time and money.
22 November 2007
Embruns d'Essaouira by Montale
I'm with Vadim; I tried this one for about a month and just didn't see what it wanted to be or what it wanted to do. Is it fresh, is it green, is it spicey? It is sort of all of them... and none. Nothing much sticks out, nothing much lingers, it's just sort of... THERE.
If this were an inexpensive, easily obtained scent, it would be fair enough to wear on rare occasions, but for $135 and in such limited distribution, there are MANY others that should be tried first.
Of course the Aouds get the most attention, but there are other Montales that are worth the effort. Patchouli leaves is wonderful, Chypre Vanille is odd but compelling, and Greyland has a citrusy kick that is very unique. Try those and leave Embruns on the shelf.
If this were an inexpensive, easily obtained scent, it would be fair enough to wear on rare occasions, but for $135 and in such limited distribution, there are MANY others that should be tried first.
Of course the Aouds get the most attention, but there are other Montales that are worth the effort. Patchouli leaves is wonderful, Chypre Vanille is odd but compelling, and Greyland has a citrusy kick that is very unique. Try those and leave Embruns on the shelf.
22 November 2007
Fougères Marines by Montale
I'll admit that at first I was hoping for something with a little more kick (my two favorite Montales hitherto have been Chypre Vanille and Greyland), but the more I'm around Fougeres Marines, the more I appreciate it and what it tries to do.
It's very classy and very much in line with the name. If Marine scents with a hint of fougeres weren't everywhere in the market these days, it might be a little more desirable, but overall this one feels very much like an expensive, natural version of many designer scents (or, perhaps like if Creed took a hand at remaking Tommy).
Spending some time with it, though, there's a lot going on and the little hints of salt and seaweed help keep it from being TOO "clean."
Nevertheless, for the price, it doesn't really hold up and I'd still recommend Erolfa or GIT before this one. For $135, there needs to be something remarkable to the combination that this one lacks. Many Montale's have this (not just the Aoud scents, but the regular line as well), but this one plays it all just a hint too safe.
But, if you've been searching for a classy, well-made, very long lasting scent (longevity with the EdP strength is great) that is conventional without being too weird, then this could be a great choice.
It's very classy and very much in line with the name. If Marine scents with a hint of fougeres weren't everywhere in the market these days, it might be a little more desirable, but overall this one feels very much like an expensive, natural version of many designer scents (or, perhaps like if Creed took a hand at remaking Tommy).
Spending some time with it, though, there's a lot going on and the little hints of salt and seaweed help keep it from being TOO "clean."
Nevertheless, for the price, it doesn't really hold up and I'd still recommend Erolfa or GIT before this one. For $135, there needs to be something remarkable to the combination that this one lacks. Many Montale's have this (not just the Aoud scents, but the regular line as well), but this one plays it all just a hint too safe.
But, if you've been searching for a classy, well-made, very long lasting scent (longevity with the EdP strength is great) that is conventional without being too weird, then this could be a great choice.
22 November 2007
Bois d'Argent Cologne by Christian Dior
I love it. Well balanced, sweet without being cloying, with honey mixed in that doesn't become foul on the drydown (ala Lutens Miel de Bois).
My favorite by far of the Dior trio and the most versatile (I feel). It works well for daywear, but could easily be done at night. Eau Noire is too dark for the day, while Cologne Blanche is a little too powdery to make it much into my rotation. But, this one works really well.
For a "gentleman's" wardrobe, I think having this, Chanel's Pour Monsieur, and one or two of the Creed Classics (Green Irish Tweed or especially Bois du Portugal) just might be all that he would need to make his mark in the conference room or at the club.
My favorite by far of the Dior trio and the most versatile (I feel). It works well for daywear, but could easily be done at night. Eau Noire is too dark for the day, while Cologne Blanche is a little too powdery to make it much into my rotation. But, this one works really well.
For a "gentleman's" wardrobe, I think having this, Chanel's Pour Monsieur, and one or two of the Creed Classics (Green Irish Tweed or especially Bois du Portugal) just might be all that he would need to make his mark in the conference room or at the club.
22 November 2007
Virgilio by Diptyque
Diptyque is an odd fragrance house for me. Some of their scents (Philosykos, Tam Dao) have a wonderful, deep richness about them that is very pleasant without being too conventional. Then, others (L'autre, Virgilio) are harsh to the point of being downright unpleasant. Whereas L'autre smells like an unwashed Indian Spice shop owner, Virgilio takes the Green element and multiplies it times 1000.
Unlike Vetiver Extraordinaire, a very green scent which I love, Virgilio adds a sharp soapiness where the VE adds woods. So, instead of getting something warm, I get something oddly clean mixed with the green. It's hard to describe, but not terribly pleasant.
I wouldn't ever recommend Diptyque as a blind buy. Philosykos is wonderful, as is Tam Dao, as are a few others, but there are definitely some sour stinkers hidden in there, too. Caveat Emptor!
Unlike Vetiver Extraordinaire, a very green scent which I love, Virgilio adds a sharp soapiness where the VE adds woods. So, instead of getting something warm, I get something oddly clean mixed with the green. It's hard to describe, but not terribly pleasant.
I wouldn't ever recommend Diptyque as a blind buy. Philosykos is wonderful, as is Tam Dao, as are a few others, but there are definitely some sour stinkers hidden in there, too. Caveat Emptor!
22 November 2007
Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel
Egoiste is a definite classic and will have its fans no matter what. Unfortunately, I'm not one of them. Antaeus and Pour Monsieur are in my top ten favorites of all time, so I REALLY wanted to like this one. I love sandalwood, I love tangerine, but the vanilla just makes it too sweet for me.
I wish I could have tried the original limited release Bois Noir, because perhaps it would have had a little of the kick and less of the cloying element than Egoiste.
Nevertheless, it is still worth a try to any fragrance fan just to see what all the fuss is about. But, for my money, I'll stick to Antaeus and PM.
I wish I could have tried the original limited release Bois Noir, because perhaps it would have had a little of the kick and less of the cloying element than Egoiste.
Nevertheless, it is still worth a try to any fragrance fan just to see what all the fuss is about. But, for my money, I'll stick to Antaeus and PM.
22 November 2007
Citrus Sorbet by Anthousa
An excellent dry citrus. All in all, having the three Anthousa scents presents a excellent trio that covers nearly all the bases... an excellent floral (White Tuberose), a crisp green scent with depth (Fig & Vetiver), and a dry citrus (Citrus Sorbet).
With the name "Citrus Sorbet," I actually expected something a little creamier and sweeter, but this is one is quite dry and sharp (just like I like my citrus!) Thus, instead of being more like Goutal's Les Nuits d'Hadrien, it is instead closer to Eau Sauvage Extreme.
Longevity is quite good, though it definitely sticks closer to the skin than either of the others mentioned above.
Overall, Fig&Vetiver is still my favorite, with Citrus Sorbet coming close. White Tuberose is third, but all of them are definitely worth the effort.
With the name "Citrus Sorbet," I actually expected something a little creamier and sweeter, but this is one is quite dry and sharp (just like I like my citrus!) Thus, instead of being more like Goutal's Les Nuits d'Hadrien, it is instead closer to Eau Sauvage Extreme.
Longevity is quite good, though it definitely sticks closer to the skin than either of the others mentioned above.
Overall, Fig&Vetiver is still my favorite, with Citrus Sorbet coming close. White Tuberose is third, but all of them are definitely worth the effort.
21 November 2007
White Tuberose by Anthousa
I'm already a huge fan of Fig & Vetiver, so I was excited to try this one as well and was far from disappointed. This one is quite floral, but not too delicate. All of Anthousa's scents have a certain warm creaminess about them that keeps them from being too light, too playful, or too fleeting.
There is definitely tuberose in this one, but not so much that you get nothing else. I also get some neroli and definitely some white musk.
Overall, it actually reminds me a good deal of Bond no. 9's "Fire Island," though perhaps a little less suntan lotion and a little more floral.
I'd say it is definitely best for spring /summer, but the woods and musk in the base also give it some oomph in the wintertime (it's quite cold today as I'm wearing it and it still works).
I'd still recommend Fig&Vetiver first, but for tuberose or white musk fans, this one is a must.
There is definitely tuberose in this one, but not so much that you get nothing else. I also get some neroli and definitely some white musk.
Overall, it actually reminds me a good deal of Bond no. 9's "Fire Island," though perhaps a little less suntan lotion and a little more floral.
I'd say it is definitely best for spring /summer, but the woods and musk in the base also give it some oomph in the wintertime (it's quite cold today as I'm wearing it and it still works).
I'd still recommend Fig&Vetiver first, but for tuberose or white musk fans, this one is a must.
18 November 2007
Les Nuits d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal
I think that those who are fond of the vanilla/sandalwood sweetness of Chanel Egoiste will also love this one. In fact, the first time I smelled it, I thought that this is what "Egoiste for Summer" might smell like (if such a thing existed), given the similar bases but the addition of the citrus over top in the Goutal.
All around, very pleasant, but it IS sweet. If you like your citrus very foul and pungent (ala Eau d'hermes or Malle Bigarade), this one may not be a good fit for you.
But, in the quest for the fully rounded citrus wardrobe, this one is essential.
All around, very pleasant, but it IS sweet. If you like your citrus very foul and pungent (ala Eau d'hermes or Malle Bigarade), this one may not be a good fit for you.
But, in the quest for the fully rounded citrus wardrobe, this one is essential.
24 October 2007
L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain
I found myself loving this one at first sniff. As others have said, it is very pleasant, but also very deep. Without the richness and warmth, it would almost be too sweet or play it a little too safe. But, in the hands of Guerlain, the mixture is just right and it really makes for a pleasant experience.
I find it best worn in cooler weather and in the evenings, which makes it a great counterbalance to a daytime classic like Chanel Antaeus or PM.
Definitely give it a try!
I find it best worn in cooler weather and in the evenings, which makes it a great counterbalance to a daytime classic like Chanel Antaeus or PM.
Definitely give it a try!
13 October 2007
Chypre Vanille by Montale
Vanilla just as I like it: dry and pungent. Definitely not what one might expect from vanilla, it lacks much softness or overt sweetness, instead being quite sharp and crisp.
I see what Trebor means by the "vile" mid-notes... there is something harsh and almost antiseptic about them, but strangely compelling and even mildly alluring.
I can't say I'd recommend buyers on a budget socking away $175 for it (luckily I received it in a swap!), as there are many others at that price level I'd recommend first. But, for someone who has been looking for a VERY different take on vanilla and something that doesn't just smell soft and cute, then this might be the way to go.
I see what Trebor means by the "vile" mid-notes... there is something harsh and almost antiseptic about them, but strangely compelling and even mildly alluring.
I can't say I'd recommend buyers on a budget socking away $175 for it (luckily I received it in a swap!), as there are many others at that price level I'd recommend first. But, for someone who has been looking for a VERY different take on vanilla and something that doesn't just smell soft and cute, then this might be the way to go.
11 October 2007
Essential by Lacoste
While Lacoste Essential is not as bad as these reviews are making it out to be, it's certainly not a Holy Grail scent, either. I'm not sure what users were expecting from lacoste (a company known for innocuous and fairly pleasant sportswear), but this scent as well is fairly pleasant and innocuous. Like a polo shirt with that little alligator on it, it is guaranteed not to raise eyebrows at a barbecue(but also guaranteed not to keep you lingering in anybody's memory). I didn't expect Frederic Malle from this, so I wasn't disappointed.
It is much like a lot of the fresh, green scents on the market today and seems to me to take a card from Creed's Green Valley in much the same way that half a dozen scents take a card from Green Irish Tweed; similar notes, but without the distinction.
Good for times when you don't need to stand out or when you aren't sure what else to wear. I was given mine as a gift and will use it from time to time; I certainly wouldn't have purchased it myself.
It is much like a lot of the fresh, green scents on the market today and seems to me to take a card from Creed's Green Valley in much the same way that half a dozen scents take a card from Green Irish Tweed; similar notes, but without the distinction.
Good for times when you don't need to stand out or when you aren't sure what else to wear. I was given mine as a gift and will use it from time to time; I certainly wouldn't have purchased it myself.
06 August 2007
Eau Neuve (original) by Lubin
I came across a bottle a while back and was pleasantly surprised. It is light, fresh, but with that element of kick lacking from most current fragrances. I get cedar, lemon, and sandalwood, with the "pencil shaving" element of something like Gucci PH, but fresher and more wearable during the day (the lemon helps a lot). Longevity isn't great, but it is light enough to be sprayed liberally without overpowering. Not a holy grail scent, by any means, but definitely worth a try. I'd love to see it reintroduced, as it plays the fresh, woody notes quite well.
23 July 2007
Sport Jil Sander for Men by Jil Sander
I've been a fan of Jil Sander's menswear since the first collections in the late 1990's, so I always eagerly test her fragrances hoping that they'll be as good as her fashion. So far, they've all been disappointments, from Man, Pure Man, Feeling Man, all the way to Sun Man. Sport Man is unfortunately no different; while the packaging is very Jil (clean, simple, ultra-modern) the juice is the same sort of boring, fresh, aquatic, sporty garbage that can be had from any 2 dozen designers or 5 dozen drug store fragrances on the market. It's not a BAD scent, just completely lacks any backbone or innovation to set it apart from the herd. Not worthy of the name on the bottle.
18 March 2007
Royal Scottish Lavender by Creed
ZZ is absolutely right about this one; it is probably the best lavender based scent on the market that I've smelled. Unfortunately, at retail it is also probably one of the most expensive, but I have yet to find another that does the lavender so smoothly and softly. Caron PuH has always been a tough one for me to wear (the lavender just doesn't "feel" right on me), but this one manages to stay interesting all the way through drydown.
07 March 2007
Royal English Leather by Creed
Far be it for me to dispute with Pluran, but I quite like REL. Is it worth twice the price of Knize Ten or Chanel CdR? Well, no, but as a scent in general it seems every bit as interesting, especially with the much needed tangerine opening that helps to keep it from being too dry and flat. I wouldn't pick this one as my only leather scent (if I had to, that would probably have to be Cuiron), or the Holy Grail of leather scents, but it is certainly a necessity in rounding out the collection of a leather fan, especially if you can find it at a decent price.
07 March 2007
Aubépine-Acacia by Creed
I'm with Gerald on this one being a total surprise. Having enjoyed Neroli Sauvage, Citrus Bigarade, and Bois de Cedrat for some time, I wondered what more Creed could do with citrus. Nevertheless, this one really distinguishes itself and has moved quickly to the top of the pack in my rotation. Even if you've tried all the other Creed citrus scents, don't give up on this one just because it isn't as well known. Worth a try, especially if you can find it in a smaller size than the "Private Collection" huge 250ml bottles.
07 March 2007
Bois de Filao by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
Along with L'eau de Gouverneur, my favorite offering from CSP. It's soft, subtle, and woodsy, excellent for daywear or eveningwear use. There isn't much to add on top of Foetidus' excellent review, but I'll only add that this one also reminds me a good deal of EA Him Night, only much smoother and more sophisticated (and, seeing the notes of the EA, one sees much in common).
06 March 2007
Bulgari pour Homme Soir by Bulgari
The initial blast is very reminiscent of the other two Bulgari PH, but soon after this one moves off on its own into slightly softer, more powdery, soapier territory. Unfortunately, that doesn't help it all that much, but instead makes it seem less interesting and less unique than its two partners. As such, this is my least favorite of the Bulgari PH formulations. Get the others first...
04 March 2007
Patchouli Leaves by Montale
One of my favorite patchouli scents. As others have mentioned, this one is toned enough that it doesn't turn bitter (this is definitely no 1960's hippy patchouli), but it still keeps a distinct patchouli kick throughout. This one is what I wish L'artisan's Patchouli Patch had been; both sweeten the patchouli, but the L'artisan does it to the point that the patchouli nearly disappears. The Montale keeps it out front without overpowering.
Definitely worth a try.
Definitely worth a try.
19 February 2007
Route du Thé by Barneys New York
I love it, but can understand why it may not be a hit with everybody. If Malle Bigarade Concentree smells like "stinky oranges," and TDC Rose Poivree smells like "stinky roses," then Route du Thé smells like "stinky tea." For fans of lighter, fresher, softer tea fragrances, this one may not be a good fit. But, for fans of unsweet, crisp, sharp scents, I think this one would be a good fit.
17 February 2007
Persian Leather by Caswell-Massey
Surprisingly good for such a reasonable price. Light, fresh, warm, and with a good kick of leather thrown in without being too dry. I wouldn't wait in line in the rain for it, but if the opportunity came about to get another bottle, I'd definitely do it.
15 February 2007
Sandalwood by Caswell-Massey
Not bad for its reasonable price, but a little too dry and bitter to hold its own against sandalwood fragrances such as Lutens Santal de Mysore, LV Sandalo, Etro Sandalo, or even AOS Sandalwood. Worth a try and good for an everyday summer sandalwood fragrance (at 100mls for about $30, you can wear it anytime).
15 February 2007
Patchouli 24 by Le Labo
When I first heard the buzz about this one, I honestly thought, "Oh no, not ANOTHER niche house claiming to be unique!" I thought it had all been done. But, trying this one, I saw that I was incorrect. Some say this is in the same universe as Bulgari Black (and both were created by the same nose), nevertheless this one is quite unique and worth the price and search.
Nevertheless, the name is slightly misleading, as it takes a while to find any discernible patchouli. Instead, you get birch tar, smoke, woods, and eventually some patchouli. Sillage is good and longevity is amazing; if I wear this out on a Saturday night, I'm still smelling it well into Sunday afternoon.
All in all, it is definitely worth a try and a wonderful cold-weather fragrance.
Nevertheless, the name is slightly misleading, as it takes a while to find any discernible patchouli. Instead, you get birch tar, smoke, woods, and eventually some patchouli. Sillage is good and longevity is amazing; if I wear this out on a Saturday night, I'm still smelling it well into Sunday afternoon.
All in all, it is definitely worth a try and a wonderful cold-weather fragrance.
11 February 2007
Insensé by Givenchy
What a surprise! Having come into contact with the almost ubiquitous Ultramarine, I didn't expect much from this. But, DEFINITELY give it a try if you can find a bottle. It's a nice floral, but mixed with some excellent spice and kick (the member who compared it to Passage d'enfer wasn't far off the mark... I do think they share some similarities). Not something I could wear everyday, but a wonderful one to have in your collection.
10 February 2007
Greyland by Montale
ZZ is right about the cumin, but whereas most cumin-heavy fragrances (Kingdom, SL Santal Blanc) send me running for cover, this one keeps me hanging around. The spices are balanced enough with woods and musks that it keeps is balanced and inviting. Unfortunately, it is hard to find and costs an arm and a leg, but it is definitely worth a try.
08 February 2007
Greenbriar by Caswell-Massey
I've got the newer version and I agree that it definitely isn't anything to wait in line for. It DOES smell like Cool Water, which itself smells like Creed GIT. I've got GIT on my left and Greenbriar on my right, and the Greenbriar really tries to be like Creed with synthetics. That being said, it isn't BAD... it just isn't particularly innovative or interesting. For $10 or less, it's worth it. Anything more is questionable.
07 February 2007
Armani Privé Ambre Soie by Giorgio Armani
I'm usually the first to foul Armani for most everything (ubiquitous AdG, overpriced, poor quality suits, etc etc etc), so wasn't I surprised to smell this one. Love him or hate him, he really did something right with this. If I could afford it, this would be my staple evening, amber-based scent. It's classy, luxurious, and (as the name suggests), very silky and smooth, and smells like a million bucks. When I first read the name, I wondered how much more could be done with Amber, given the hundreds of scents (designer and niche) that use it in abundance.
But, unlike most Armani, it holds its own and is quite unique (another that I'd put in the same universe, albeit less interesting, is Parfum d'empire Ambre Russe). Unfortunately, at twice the price of Lutens or other niche, the Prive is hard to justify except for use on special occasions, which is about the only time I pull out my small bottle. DEFINITELY worth a try; a decant if you're on a budget, a full bottle if you've got the cash to burn.
But, unlike most Armani, it holds its own and is quite unique (another that I'd put in the same universe, albeit less interesting, is Parfum d'empire Ambre Russe). Unfortunately, at twice the price of Lutens or other niche, the Prive is hard to justify except for use on special occasions, which is about the only time I pull out my small bottle. DEFINITELY worth a try; a decant if you're on a budget, a full bottle if you've got the cash to burn.
03 February 2007
Feeling Man by Jil Sander
Every few months, the forum will have a "Bring it back!" thread about discontinued fragrances. After Patou PH, Feeling Man is usually right up there in terms of requests. Given that kind of publicity and the generally favorable comments, more than once I've had my finger poised on an auction to buy bottles ranging anywhere from $75-150. Luckily, I refrained and spent my money elsewhere.
Receiving a decant of it from a fellow Bnoter, I can see why members enjoy it. It's a nice scent overall. BUT, it is by no means a brilliant scent, nor is it one to search the earth or pay a high price for. It feels very much like a late 1980's designer scent; in the same universe as Antaeus, Baie de Genievre, or even Quorum (for a lower priced alternative). Actually, given the choice between Feeling Man and Antaeus, I'd take Antaeus. FM is interesting, yes (and considerably better than the bland JS offerings still in production), but it does feel a little dated and hardly worth the high cost a discontinued bottle will cost. Spending close to $100 for a bottle, given all the other options out there, would seem like a waste. While we like to lament some discontinued fragrances and chide the "suits" who make those decisions, sometimes these things happen for a reason. The search for the long lost Holy Grail continues...
Receiving a decant of it from a fellow Bnoter, I can see why members enjoy it. It's a nice scent overall. BUT, it is by no means a brilliant scent, nor is it one to search the earth or pay a high price for. It feels very much like a late 1980's designer scent; in the same universe as Antaeus, Baie de Genievre, or even Quorum (for a lower priced alternative). Actually, given the choice between Feeling Man and Antaeus, I'd take Antaeus. FM is interesting, yes (and considerably better than the bland JS offerings still in production), but it does feel a little dated and hardly worth the high cost a discontinued bottle will cost. Spending close to $100 for a bottle, given all the other options out there, would seem like a waste. While we like to lament some discontinued fragrances and chide the "suits" who make those decisions, sometimes these things happen for a reason. The search for the long lost Holy Grail continues...
03 February 2007
Fleur de Peau by Keiko Mecheri
Interesting, dry, and powdery. Smells something like if Knize Ten cut down on the leather and added some florals. It's almost TOO dry, but it still is worth a try.
01 February 2007
Ambre Canelle by Creed
I really like this one, but I agree with the other reviews that say that it might not be a good one to buy blind. Those accustomed to GIT, Himalaya, Green Valley, MI, or Neroli Sauvage will probably be very surprised by this one. Along with Baie de Genievre, it's my favorite "non-Creed" Creed, or one of those Creed fragrances that will surprise you, just when you think you've figured out what's going on with this house. The "soapy/spicy" opening others get is a blast of the pink pepper, which stays quite discernible until the drydown, but subsides to give more amber and cinammon. Definitely worth a try, but sample it first.
24 January 2007
Fig & Vetiver by Anthousa
A very delightful fig fragrance. I was unimpressed with L'artisans Premier Figuier, so I wasn't expecting much from this one either (the L'artisan was just a little TOO foodish on me). But, this one retains the woody sweetness of the fig note and blends it with the crisp green vetiver notes to create a subtle, relaxed, but nevertheless distinctive experience. Highly recommended if you can find a bottle.
21 January 2007
Sélection Verte by Creed
It's not a bad scent, but I'd say save the high cost and just get the original YSL Pour Homme. Each have that crisp, cool green and citrus blend, but the YSL actually has some lasting power.
19 January 2007
Santal Blanc by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Sorry to add yet another negative review of this one, but it really does leave you wondering what Lutens was trying to accomplish. It's quite warm, but not very inviting and the mixture of elements is not particularly pleasant. In many ways, it seems almost confrontational (the way the cumin note blends in is not altogether unlike Kingdom), but is softer and stays closer to the skin. I'm glad I got it in a swap; had I bought this one blind after the wonders of Lutens other fragrances (Chergui, Santal de Mysore, Miel des Bois, etc.) I would really have been disappointed. Try MANY others first before getting around to this one.
14 January 2007
Secret Mélange by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Interesting fragrance. It's very hard to describe, but with its spiciness, warmth, and depth, it's definitely worth a try. I'd say it would be a great one for fans of LV Piper Nigrum.
11 January 2007
L'Autre by Diptyque
Kingdom for men? Maybe, as this has a lot of cumin/curry going on. But, unlike Kingdom, this one isn't confrontational, but is instead a heady, spicy, almost intoxicating mixture that will set you apart from the herd. I agree that this one might be tough to wear in many settings, given its dark spiciness, but it is certainly a unique addition to any man's fragrance collection. Worth a try!
10 January 2007
Yohji Homme by Yohji Yamamoto
Along with Helmut Lang's Cuiron and CN Scent Intense, Yohji Homme is my favorite designer scent. It is soft, subtle, and very warm. It IS a gourmand, but not in the extreme... wearing it won't make anybody think you're wearing hot chocolate or coffee. Nevertheless, it has definite food hints in it, something like a softer, more versatile Bond no. 9 New Haarlem. Definitely worth a try if you can find a bottle.
09 January 2007
Madigral by Molinard
I see what vadim means about this one feeling a little 'dated,' but I don't get as much sweetness from Madrigal as I do tart bitterness. I think it would be a welcome addition to anybody who enjoys Caron Pour un Homme, Monsieur Balmain, or some of the men's offerings from MPG (especially Centaure). Definitely a surprise thanks to the sage and tarragon and quite unique, I'd say it's worth a try if only to see how greatly our "noses" have changed over the past forty years. I don't think we'll see a new scent anything like this one again.
07 January 2007
Cuiron Pour Homme by Helmut Lang
If this were only stronger and lasted longer, it just might be one of the greatest designer scents ever. I absolutely love it from the start; warm, inviting, leathery. It's got distinction, backbone, class, and yet doesn't ever go too far and become outlandish. My only issue with it is that I could easily go through a bottle in a few months, as it just disappears on me in almost no time. My biggest hope is that the new owners of the Helmut Lang brand will release this one again in an EDT or EDP concentration.
07 January 2007
Aventure by Il Profumo
I received a bottle of this in a swap with a fellow Bnoter, who also threw in a sample of Tom Ford's Black Orchid. The swap was for the Aventure, but to my great surprise I ended up spending most of my time sniffing my tiny sample of the Black Orchid.
Aventure has given me a mixed impression. It is subdued and understated, but there is something in it (perhaps the absinthe note?) that makes cuts away any sense of warmth and depth. Perhaps in the heat of summer this would work better than in winter, but in general it certainly cuts down on the durability of the scent.
With soft, understated scents, a warmer, more inviting note helps add personality and round out the experience, but with Aventure, I just feel as though this scent is wearing ME, and not the opposite. We never really blend and it isn't quite so "cool" as it is COLD... not something that is very easy to love.
Longevity and sillage are pretty good (thanks to the EDP strength), but I fail to see how there is enough going on here that this would be worth the time, effort and expense of locating a bottle.
Aventure has given me a mixed impression. It is subdued and understated, but there is something in it (perhaps the absinthe note?) that makes cuts away any sense of warmth and depth. Perhaps in the heat of summer this would work better than in winter, but in general it certainly cuts down on the durability of the scent.
With soft, understated scents, a warmer, more inviting note helps add personality and round out the experience, but with Aventure, I just feel as though this scent is wearing ME, and not the opposite. We never really blend and it isn't quite so "cool" as it is COLD... not something that is very easy to love.
Longevity and sillage are pretty good (thanks to the EDP strength), but I fail to see how there is enough going on here that this would be worth the time, effort and expense of locating a bottle.
07 January 2007
Helmut Lang Woman by Helmut Lang
"Delicious" is an excellent description for this scent. I don't think it's really a typical gourmand, but it does have a soft, buttery warmth to it that feels very soothing and appealing. It has a different feel than the EDC, but definitely related (something like how Opium EDT and EDP or Bandit EDT and EDP are similar, but have different "dynamics.")
What it shares with the EDC is that it is very personal and, like Lang's fashion, creates an understated mood without overpowering anybody 100 yards away. My only hope now that Lang's clothing brand has been picked up by new buyers is that they'll also purchase the fragrance license and re-release it. The EDP, EDC, and Cuiron are perhaps the best designer scents in the past decade and it's a SHAME they disappeared along with Lang from the scene.
What it shares with the EDC is that it is very personal and, like Lang's fashion, creates an understated mood without overpowering anybody 100 yards away. My only hope now that Lang's clothing brand has been picked up by new buyers is that they'll also purchase the fragrance license and re-release it. The EDP, EDC, and Cuiron are perhaps the best designer scents in the past decade and it's a SHAME they disappeared along with Lang from the scene.
07 January 2007
Black Orchid by Tom Ford
Instant classic? Maybe it's a little too soon to tell, but at first whiff I realized this wasn't your everyday, middle-of-the-road designer scent. If Black Orchid is any indication of what we have to look forward to from Tom Ford, we're all in store for some wonderful scents. As Tovah said, it's a hard fragrance to describe, but it is quite dark, heavy, and yet subtle. There's not a lot with which to compare it, but beyond those mentioned already, I would also say it shares something with CN Scent Intense for that dark, thick, sweetness that works without becoming cloying.
Longevity is great, as is sillage (and rightly so for $135 for 100ml's), but best of all it rides that all-too-difficult line of maintaining distinction without being too outlandish. As well, it seems definitely wearable by men as well as women (it doesn't strike me as being any more feminine than CN Scent Intense).
DEFINITELY worth a try, but maybe only as a decant or small bottle, so that we can save our money to see what else Ford will offer this upcoming year. Smelling this, I'm THRILLED to see what his men's scent will be like.
Longevity is great, as is sillage (and rightly so for $135 for 100ml's), but best of all it rides that all-too-difficult line of maintaining distinction without being too outlandish. As well, it seems definitely wearable by men as well as women (it doesn't strike me as being any more feminine than CN Scent Intense).
DEFINITELY worth a try, but maybe only as a decant or small bottle, so that we can save our money to see what else Ford will offer this upcoming year. Smelling this, I'm THRILLED to see what his men's scent will be like.
07 January 2007
Allure Homme Sport by Chanel
I was introduced to fragrances as a kid with greats like Pour Monsieur, Antaeus, and afterwards Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles. Therefore, wasn't I disappointed to take a whiff of this one. Whereas most Chanel scents have a certain subtlety that keeps them from being outlandish, while maintaining a sense of distinction, this one seems created and marketed not to be a great scent, but only to be a big seller. It's got that fresh, clean, indistinct sense that won't get strong reactions positively or negatively that about 1000 other scents have, but what it lacks most is that sense of confidence and rebellion inherent in the best of Chanel.
07 January 2007
Antaeus by Chanel
There were a number of these "powerhouse" scents released in the early 1980's that have become classics: Kouros, Creed's Baie de Genievre, L'artisan's L'eau de Navagateur, Puig's Quorum, and of course Antaeus. I like the Chanel the best of the lot. It's strong, confident, fresh, and a little powdery (in that subtle, understated way that Chanel does best), and rides a thin line between being very masculine and yet not too dark or woodsy. Along with Chanel PM, this one was one of my first "real" fragrances and one that many years later I still enjoy.
07 January 2007
Cuir de Russie by Chanel
I'm a huge fan of leather scents and of course this one is leather par excellence. It's soft, subtle, classy, and keeps the leather tame and mixed with enough other elements that it doesn't make you smell like you just came from a tannery. Definitely unisex, would be a welcome addition to anyone's wardrobe who also enjoys scents like Cuiron, Knize Ten, Jolie de Balmain, or even Gucci PH. Unfortunately hard to find and rather expensive, but unlike many scents that never live up to the hype, this one is worth the time and the $$$. Sillage and longevity are great as well (I can put this on in the morning and still smell it when I go to bed).
(this review is for the EDT version)
(this review is for the EDT version)
06 January 2007
Centaure by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
When I was in college, I worked a summer internship at a company that made powdered gelatin. Every August, we'd have to go onto the production floor and clean all the computers on the lines. Breaking open the cases, a sudden waft of year-old stale gelatin in a variety of citrus and fruit flavors would come swirling out, mixed with something odd, dirty, and metallic.
A trip back to my college days accompanies me every time I spray on Centaure. It DOES smell like stale, dried, powdery citrus. There is also some cedar or something in there, but less woodsy and more bitter to my nose.
I would put it in the same family as L'anarchiste, but the Caron is a masterful blend of oppositions, while this one is just harsh and confrontational. As well, it seems not to morph and change through the drydown; that stale powdery dryness stays on me until the end.
Even if I didn't have the unfortunate association with a crappy summer job, I'd still have difficulty finding the appeal of this one. Knowing that it costs more than $100 makes it even worse.
A trip back to my college days accompanies me every time I spray on Centaure. It DOES smell like stale, dried, powdery citrus. There is also some cedar or something in there, but less woodsy and more bitter to my nose.
I would put it in the same family as L'anarchiste, but the Caron is a masterful blend of oppositions, while this one is just harsh and confrontational. As well, it seems not to morph and change through the drydown; that stale powdery dryness stays on me until the end.
Even if I didn't have the unfortunate association with a crappy summer job, I'd still have difficulty finding the appeal of this one. Knowing that it costs more than $100 makes it even worse.
06 January 2007
Helmut Lang Men by Helmut Lang
I love it. Soft, subtle, musky, and sticks close to the skin. As well, for an EDC, it has great longevity. Like Lang's fashion, it's not something that will make a statement from 100 yards away, but it does create a personal, quiet, subdued, and yet very distinctive experience. It's getting harder and harder to find, but definitely worth the search (as is the EDP version and Lang's other scent Cuiron).
05 January 2007
Iquitos by Alain Delon
I agree with the other members that the drydown on this one is surprisingly nice. I didn't expect much from it, but was really quite impressed. Having briefly smelled in transit a few other Delon offerings, I'm bewildered why they chose THIS one to discontinue. It's by far the best of the bunch. Worth a try if you can get your hands on some.
04 January 2007
Velviona by Helmut Lang
Probably one of the strangest scents ever created. Strange not only because it barely had any perceptible scent (except for a supposed single note synthetic musk called "velviona" that slowly.. VERY slowly... could be smelt on the skin), but also because it was hardly marketed, unbelievably limited in its distribution, and cost a fortune. I've heard it called a unique piece of conceptual art and I've heard it called a "non-scent" scent, but I've never heard of anybody who actually was thrilled to pay retail for this thing. I love HL's EDC, EDP, and Cuiron, but sometimes I think he takes his love of conceptual, post-modern art too far (the see through, plastic pants from a few years back?). Velviona isn't a non-scent, it's nonsense.
03 January 2007
Arpège pour Homme by Lanvin
An interesting scent, but a little too sweet for me. I was surprised to see it came out in 2005, as it feels like one of the classy, sweet, barber shop lavender scents of the 1930's, not unlike Caron pour un homme (not that they smell alike or that this one even has lavender in it, but it gives me a similar "mood.") Amongst contemporary fragrances, I'd put it in the same family as Prada Amber Pour homme, but sweeter and a little less refined. A definite alternative to the everyday, "clean" and fresh detergent fragrances. It is often obtainable at deep discount, so I'd saw it is worth a try if you want something new but want to stand out from the crowd.
31 December 2006
Parfum d'Habit by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
I remember reading once in a review of the original Versace Versus Uomo that it was a scent that smelled like a lumberjack. Well, if that is the case, then this one smells like the lumberjack bosses boss. The comparison might seem strange, but nevertheless this one reminds me of a less sweet, classier, less cloying Versus Uomo. Both have that dark, woodsy/piney, slightly sweet feel about them that is nevertheless extremely manly (in a bear-like sort of way). Definitely worth a try.
30 December 2006
L'Eau de Gouverneur / L'Homme by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
I really like this one and find it very versatile. It is warm and spicy enough for cooler weather, but soft and fresh enough for warmer weather. It's also quite light, which makes it easy to wear in the daytime. All around, a nice scent that won't get too many negative reactions from others but is still distinct enough to keep you from melting into a sea of Allure Homme Sport.
30 December 2006
Sultan Safran / Safranier by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
As the name suggests, there's a discernible saffron note all the way through. If you like saffron, this one does it well (with a nice woodsy, citrus feel), but if you don't, then you probably want to avoid this one. Unfortunately, it appears that this one is discontinued, but if you can find a bottle, it is definitely worth the buy and a nice, soft, yet distinctive scent for daywear.
30 December 2006
Epicéa by Creed
If you like pine, this is one you simply must have. It is clean, fresh, crisp (thanks to some mint), and yet quite warm and inviting.
If you don't like pine, however, this one isn't for you. There are certainly more things going on other than pine, but I can smell it easily all the way through to the drydown. Longevity was pretty good for me, as well (unlike many Creed's), and my only other caveat would be that this may be a hard one for younger guys to wear easily. In many cultures, pine trees are symbols of age and experience, and I think that this scent lends a bit of that maturity as well.
If you don't like pine, however, this one isn't for you. There are certainly more things going on other than pine, but I can smell it easily all the way through to the drydown. Longevity was pretty good for me, as well (unlike many Creed's), and my only other caveat would be that this may be a hard one for younger guys to wear easily. In many cultures, pine trees are symbols of age and experience, and I think that this scent lends a bit of that maturity as well.
28 December 2006
Himalaya by Creed
If you are like me and like odd niche scents (like Rose Poivrée or Cologne Bigarade), then it may take you a few wearings to get used to Himalaya. When I first tried it, I thought it was too safe, too sweet, too conventional, and like far too many other scents on the market obtainable for 1/4 the price. But, after letting it run its course over three or four wearings, I really found this one to be quite pleasant. It is clean, fresh, crisp, but with class to spare. It works very well for daywear, especially for meetings or at work (where, unfortunately, stinky roses or Malle's sweaty oranges just won't cut it). If you try it only once in a store, I don't think it will be enough. Give it three or four full wearings and I think you can "warm up" to Himalaya.
28 December 2006
Néroli Sauvage by Creed
This is the best of the crisp, spicy citrus fragrances, but is quite similar to several others on the market (although this one is by far the classiest). My only issue is that I think one could get Eau Sauvage, Eau d'orange verte, or even Eau de Rochas Homme and not find the differences so much as to warrant paying 2.5x's more for the Creed. Nevertheless, it is still a classy, fresh fragrance that smells great in spring and summer.
27 December 2006
L'Eau de L'Artisan by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Along with Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire, this one is one of my favorite non-sweet, deeply green scents. As others have mentioned, it is very grassy and crisp, but with no florals. I enjoy it in spring and summer best, but also sometimes on a winter day when I want to be reminded of nicer weather. My only complaint is that it doesn't last longer on me (it disappears too quickly), but while it's there it is wonderful.
27 December 2006
West Broadway by Bond No. 9
Next to Riverside Drive, this is my second favorite Bond. It reminds me somewhat of cannabis Santal and/or A*men with its almost sugary sweetness, but the addition of the musk and tea gives it a classy edge that makes it more wearable for business or work. I get excellent longevity from it and find it wearable in warm and cold weather.
26 December 2006
Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi
What more can one add to good_life's description? He's right, though, this is a brilliant scent. It goes on a little strong with the mint, but soon settles down and creates a unique, warm, inviting experience. Unlike anything I've tried before and DEFINITELY worth the effort of locating.
23 December 2006
Great Jones by Bond No. 9
I like many Bonds (Riverside Drive, New Haarlem), while others I find overrated and underwhelming (Bleeker Street, Hamptons). This one is somewhere between the two. It is certainly classy and has presence, but not in a unique, individual, distinctive way. It plays everything a little too slowly and a little too safely, when what one would want at that price level is an adventure.
Worth a try if you receive a free sample, but hardly worth the high price tag. If you have to get a Bond and want something classy with a little spice, get Riverside Drive.
Worth a try if you receive a free sample, but hardly worth the high price tag. If you have to get a Bond and want something classy with a little spice, get Riverside Drive.
23 December 2006
Hamptons by Bond No. 9
Not to add another negative review, but this one really is nothing special. If it cost $40, then it wouldn't be too bothersome, since it smells fairly pleasant but comes and goes without making an impression. The fact that it costs $180, though, makes it inexcusable. It is light and fresh, yes, but it does nothing more than any of the five dozen other fresh, light spring scents on the market that cost 1/4 as much. There are several Bonds that I like very much, but this certainly isn't one of them.
23 December 2006
Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
Cab driver eats an orange? I disagree, but that description is not far off. I'd say it is something more like a very classy person decides to play tennis everyday and then not bathe for a week, before dipping himself in a vat of Hermes eau d'orange verte concentree. When he emerges and the hermes dries off, I think he'd smell like this. The orange is very sharp, very bitter, and mixed in with something sweaty, dirty and sultry. The scent is very different, nevertheless I'd actually put it in the same family of personal, "bodily" scents like Rochas Femme or McQueen's kingdom, despite the fact that this one "smells" much better and is much more wearable by men or women.
Certainly worth a try, but as I said in my review of Vetiver Extraordinaire, this one as well probably won't be understood by friends and family who aren't big fragrance fans. They'll probably just ask you why you didn't bathe before "eating an orange." Like all the Malle I've tried, this one too is VERY personal.
Certainly worth a try, but as I said in my review of Vetiver Extraordinaire, this one as well probably won't be understood by friends and family who aren't big fragrance fans. They'll probably just ask you why you didn't bathe before "eating an orange." Like all the Malle I've tried, this one too is VERY personal.
22 December 2006
Vétiver Extraordinaire by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
What's most interesting to me about this scent is how it seems to go against the grain of most fragrances and yet still creates a totally unique, enjoyable experience. This one is very crisp, very green (purplebird's descriptions are spot-on). But, unlike most fragrances, there isn't even a hint of sweetness thrown in, even for good measure. Nor is there anything very spicy, or deep. If Guerlain chopped off the sweet bottom of their scent, and added 10x's the Vetiver, then it might be something like this.
DEFINITELY worth a try for vetiver fans, but don't expect non-fragrance fans to find the appeal. The lack of usual fragrance "talking points" (where's the vanilla? where's the patchouli? etc.) might leave them wondering why you crushed beansprouts this morning and rubbed them all over yourself instead of just spraying on some cologne.
DEFINITELY worth a try for vetiver fans, but don't expect non-fragrance fans to find the appeal. The lack of usual fragrance "talking points" (where's the vanilla? where's the patchouli? etc.) might leave them wondering why you crushed beansprouts this morning and rubbed them all over yourself instead of just spraying on some cologne.
22 December 2006
Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada
When evaluating a designer scent, I always like to look at not only how it smells, but also how I think it fits with the aesthetic of the design house whose name it bears. In this way, scents like Gucci PH or McQueen's Kingdom do very well, even though in the case of Kingdom I may not like the smell all that much. On the other hand, scents like Jil Sander or Versace Man do not.
Prada is another that fits well with the design aesthetic of the company. Like Prada's other goods, it is subtle, cool, and slightly disengaged. There isn't much passion, there isn't any sex, and there isn't much warmth here, but there is class with just a hint of quirkiness (the soapy factor gives it a slightly "off" edge).
It's certainly intended to be commercial, but it doesn't feel like a sellout and I don't find it boring. Overall, I think it balances itself well between being the product of a large fashion conglomerate and one that always TRIES (and doesn't always succeed) to remain individual and unique. Definitely worth a try and a pretty good deal at $48 for 50ml.
Prada is another that fits well with the design aesthetic of the company. Like Prada's other goods, it is subtle, cool, and slightly disengaged. There isn't much passion, there isn't any sex, and there isn't much warmth here, but there is class with just a hint of quirkiness (the soapy factor gives it a slightly "off" edge).
It's certainly intended to be commercial, but it doesn't feel like a sellout and I don't find it boring. Overall, I think it balances itself well between being the product of a large fashion conglomerate and one that always TRIES (and doesn't always succeed) to remain individual and unique. Definitely worth a try and a pretty good deal at $48 for 50ml.
21 December 2006
Vanille-Tonka by Parfums de Nicolaï
Vanilla based fragrances are often too sweet for me, but this one from PdN does it well, taming it with a subtle but earthy base. I'd love it if I were a bigger fan of Tonka bean; unfortunately I'm not and so as it dries down I start to turn away.
Nevertheless, it is definitely unique, warm, inviting, and worth a try. If you like a darker, warmer vanilla and you like tonka, then this is almost certain to be a hit.
Nevertheless, it is definitely unique, warm, inviting, and worth a try. If you like a darker, warmer vanilla and you like tonka, then this is almost certain to be a hit.
20 December 2006
Sacrebleu by Parfums de Nicolaï
Of the five or six PdNs I've tried, this one is my favorite. Like most PdN, it changes greatly from start to finish, but this one retains that class, warmth, and slight sweetness all the way to drydown. As well, it's longevity is quite good.
It is quite feminine, given a fruity accord (raspberry maybe?) but it is no more feminine than Rykiel Homme and infinitely more classy and warm.
Definitely worth a try.
It is quite feminine, given a fruity accord (raspberry maybe?) but it is no more feminine than Rykiel Homme and infinitely more classy and warm.
Definitely worth a try.
20 December 2006
New York by Parfums de Nicolaï
Chameleon is right! I went through more emotions with this fragrance than any I've ever tried. I started off LOVING it, the citrus was nice, not overpowering, and mixed in was something classy and warm. Soon, however, the powder came in full force and it was so cloying that I said to myself that I'd never wear it again. Then, a few hours later, the powder softened and I smelled some sweetness (amber?) as well, and the finish was more tolerable. I tried it a few more times after that and finally decided that the average of all of my emotions with it is just that this one isn't for me. Still, though, worth a try and definitely an innovative and interesting scent.
20 December 2006
Emporio Armani White He by Giorgio Armani
The fragrance snob in me that scoffs at Aqua di Gio and Armani Code wants to turn away from this one, but nevertheless WHITE is really quite pleasant and unique. It is light, fresh, and sporty without being boring (I think the white musk helps) and an excellent scent for daywear in spring and summer. It doesn't last a terribly long time, but still goes through a nice transition from crispness to a soft warmth. Along with the Hermes Jardins, this is one of my favorite light scents.
19 December 2006
1872 for Men by Clive Christian
I don't like this one at all. It is somewhat warm, but what others call "richness" I call "butteriness." For some, the notes blend together to give relaxation, but the mixture on me smells cloying, thick, and yet strangely short lived. All in all, not something I'd spend even 1/5 of what it costs. If you want warm and rich, buy 3 bottles of Patchouli Patch instead.
18 December 2006
Rochas Femme (new) by Rochas
When Napolean wrote to Josephine, "I'll be home in fifteen days; don't bathe," I imagine she smelled something like Rochas Femme upon his return. BUT, that's not necessarily a bad thing for those who like a strong, heady, sultry, bodily scent. Overall, I'd say this one is something like a classier, much more French "Kingdom" by Alexander McQueen. The Rochas woman is just as sultry as the McQueen, but in a different tax bracket (or with a more lengthy pedigree). I can't say that it smells "good," but it is certainly unique. A woman who likes Kingdom, or Bandit, would also probably like this one.
17 December 2006
Fresh Citrus by Pecksniff's
Nice scent, reminiscent of Creed's Citrus Bigarade. But, I think this one has better longevity. Also, the addition of musk in the basenotes helps to keep it from feeling a little too sweet. So, if you can find a Pecksniff's stockist (which isn't always the easiest thing to do), this one is definitely worth the try. Nevertheless, I still don't like it as well as Pecksniff's Chypre Green.
17 December 2006
Erolfa by Creed
I usually don't like aquatics, as I think that Miyake and Aqua di Gio have forever turned my nose against them. BUT, wasn't I surprised to smell this one. It is definitely aquatic, but instead of that citrus-y, light sweetness that one usually gets, I got salt and brine! I felt like I could be standing in the prow of a whaling boat.
Longevity was quite nice as well. In fact, of the 5 or 6 Creed's I've owned, this was the only one that stayed on me.
Definitely worth a try, especially if you can get it at discount (I don't know if I'd pay $180 for it... but it still is by far my favorite aquatic).
Longevity was quite nice as well. In fact, of the 5 or 6 Creed's I've owned, this was the only one that stayed on me.
Definitely worth a try, especially if you can get it at discount (I don't know if I'd pay $180 for it... but it still is by far my favorite aquatic).
17 December 2006
The Dreamer by Versace
One of my favorite designer fragrances (along with Cuiron). Unlike many designer frags that ride that line of boring, aquatic predictability (Yes, Aqua di Gio and Miyake, I'm talking to you), this one has an added kick that is unexpected but enjoyable. Also, I think the packaging is gorgeous (who doesn't love something smattered with the Greek-key and Versace Medusa symbol???) Longevity and sillage are great as well, as others have mentioned that one has to be careful so as not to knock everybody down around you.
17 December 2006
Versus Time to Relax by Versace
Nice citrus, aquatic scent, but rather like about 1000 other citrus, aquatic scents. Definitely lacks distinction and backbone. Worst, though, is the longevity... you can seriously count the seconds as it dries and disappears on the skin. It makes Hermes Eau d'orange Verte seem like a long-laster. Not worth the effort of finding a bottle, even though it can be obtained cheaply.
17 December 2006
Black Jeans by Versace
My favorite, by far, of all the "Jeans" I've tried. This one definitely has the tar scent other have mentioned, but it gives it a great smoky, dark edge. Whereas the original Blue Jeans seemed too blagh and synthetic and the Baby Blue Jeans was, well, too childish... this one is just right and fits well with Versace's glamorous, if not a little edgy, aesthetic.
17 December 2006
V/S for Men by Versace
I go back and forth with this one.
First, the packaging: neat idea but really hard to get out of the bottle. The sprayer is on an angle and hard for me to get to spray in the right direction.
Next, the juice: I love the original Versace l'homme and respect the original Versus Uomo because they both have kick without being too outlandish. This one is ALMOST too safe... it is almost a boring aquatic with a little citrus in the mix. But, there is also a little something (maybe the cedar and tonka bean) that keeps it warm and inviting. So, it's worth a try, especially since it is obtainable so inexpensively. But, I wouldn't wait in line for it.
First, the packaging: neat idea but really hard to get out of the bottle. The sprayer is on an angle and hard for me to get to spray in the right direction.
Next, the juice: I love the original Versace l'homme and respect the original Versus Uomo because they both have kick without being too outlandish. This one is ALMOST too safe... it is almost a boring aquatic with a little citrus in the mix. But, there is also a little something (maybe the cedar and tonka bean) that keeps it warm and inviting. So, it's worth a try, especially since it is obtainable so inexpensively. But, I wouldn't wait in line for it.
17 December 2006
Patchouli Patch by L'Artisan Parfumeur
I really like this scent, but I can see why some of the others do not. There is definitely patchouli in here, but it is mixed in with numerous elements softer and sweeter. If you like your patchouli in a 60's Woodstock blend, this may not be the one for you.
It takes a little time to warm up on the skin, but after that, it sticks close and really creates a unique and personal experience (after all, it is a patchouli "patch"... not a patchouli bomb.)
It takes a little time to warm up on the skin, but after that, it sticks close and really creates a unique and personal experience (after all, it is a patchouli "patch"... not a patchouli bomb.)
13 December 2006
Mûre et Musc by L'Artisan Parfumeur
I agree with Randolph, for the most part. It is definitely unisex, but does have a certain sweetness that can't be overlooked. Nevertheless, the mix of the sweet with the musk gives it a very distinctive and classy edge. My only complaint is that this version is fairly light and longevity isn't so great on me (perhaps this would be alleviated by getting the Extreme version, which I plan to get when my bottle runs out). If I were new to l'artisan, this one wouldn't be in my top 3, but it is still worth a try.
11 December 2006
Uomo? Moschino by Moschino
It's hard to add upon what foetidus and toadkings have said, but I only add and say that this one just doesn't work on me. As a fragrance, I would put it in the same realm as Rykiel Homme, Gaultier le male, or Philosophy Amen, but this one has an odd note (something particularly synthetic) that makes the sweetness have a slight bitterness over time that isn't very pleasant. I think I see what Moschino was trying to do with this one, but also think that it is done better elsewhere (I like any of those mentioned above much better).
04 December 2006
Rykiel Homme by Sonia Rykiel
I couldn't see myself wearing this everyday, but it still is a unique addition to any wardrobe. It is very sweet (I wanted to say "berry sweet" haha), in fact so sweet it comes VERY close to being cloying... but doesn't quite cross the line and softens in the drydown. In the right atmosphere (especially a cool, sunny day), I think it could work well. Worth a try or a 1 oz bottle; I couldn't imagine going through a 4.2.
04 December 2006
Eau de Rochas Homme by Rochas
I agree that this one isn't terribly unique or an interesting take on the light, citrus fragrance... but I'm a sucker for citrus and so I can't say it doesn't work. In addition to Eau Sauvage, it also reminds me initially a bit like Hermes Eau d'orange verte. Wearing it won't have anyone saying, "OH, that's Eau de Rochas!" but it also won't have them saying, "You smell terrible." Balanced (the euphemistic word for "generic") and light, it would get a thumbs up if only it had ONE or TWO elements that separated it a little more from the pack.
04 December 2006
Amen by Philosophy
This is certainly not the manliest scent I know, but it definitely isn't quite what I'd call "teenage girl" (as the review below). It is definitely unisex, but also light, fresh, sweet, a little fruity, and in the same family as scents like Moschino Uomo, Rykiel Homme, and even Gaultier le Male. It's fairly reasonably priced, which is good, but unfortunately doesn't last too long on the skin. Nevertheless, a good scent that gives a light atmosphere without being as ubiquitous as AdG or Miyake.
04 December 2006
Byblos Uomo (original) by Byblos
I'm with chris-p on this one. It's not a terrible scent, but smells very synthetic and all blends together to smell like metallic floor cleaner. Not sad that it is discontinued; there are any number of "designer" scents out there that give a spicy, fresh, citrus scent better and don't have the odd note attached.
03 December 2006
Mare by Beth Terry Creative Universe
If I'm ever in a position to rub elbows in June with people who live on the Hamptons, this is what I imagine they'll smell like. MARE is fresh, clean, classy, and full of sea salt. And, like the Hamptons, relaxed yet reeking of money. Unfortunately, I'm a teacher in the Midwest, so it is actually a fairly hard scent for me to pull off wearing well. At the right occasion, it would be great, but as it is, it is just a little TOO much like the beach.
03 December 2006
Cologne Sologne by Parfums de Nicolaï
I don't know that I'd compare it to 4711, which is one of cheapest, least refined scents in existence. Sologne IS a classic cologne, very soft and refined, and reminds me more of a sweeter Hermes Eau d'orage Verte. Doesn't last long, of course, but it's not bad. I don't know if it is worth the price and the difficulty in finding a PdN stockist, but overall a nice addition for spring/summer.
02 December 2006
L'Eau d'Ambre by L'Artisan Parfumeur
I love amber, so it's hard for me to find an amber-based scent that I don't like. Nevertheless, the character of this one is quite different from most (as evident from the reviews). Unlike my other favorite amber scent (Costume National Scent Intense), this one is more subtle, a little classier and "light" with more vanilla and musk. Fine for daywear, fine for nightwear, also with an incense-like note that gives it an oriental feel.
02 December 2006







