Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2413

Gucci Bloom Nettare di Fiori by Gucci

Creamy patchouli, balmy rose/jasmine and aristocratic osmanthus (Provencal and rare) for this floral semi-gourmand from Gucci (finally rosey/creamy and whitely musky) with a kind of victorian nostalgic floral vibe. Delicate and romantic as in a Doris Lessing's romance.
23rd September, 2018

L'Interdit (new) by Givenchy

L'Interdit new, a "new age" loyal revisitation of a left back glorious Givenchy's classic (variously "re-introduced by Givenchy), is a radiant soapy-chic accord of white flowers, fruits (peach, orange blossom), musk and balmy/eliotropic notes, something like a classic Ysatis (a more opulent giant) combined with a whichever "easier" contemporary Elie Saab Le Parfum and Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere (and on a lesser extent Lancome Poeme) which come vaguely on mind for their sensual/chic floral radiancy. The new version reduces aldehydes and spicy/earthy complexity while enhancing synth muskiness, balmy sweetness and light florals. I detect indeed peaches combined with rose, ambery tonka, musk and yes, kind of "aqueous" flowers as peony or osmanthus providing a veritable chic musky twist. The drydown effectively adds musky undertones with an ambery resinous kind of "shampooing" soapy aura. I get moderate sillage and good projection for the carefree kind of bright contemporary woman wearing this classic remake. I even detect that typical kind of "radiant" cool/anisic synth musky undertone of modern chic perfumes. The base is not that kind of disappointment, It is just more musky, rosey, "white" and clean, less articulated, mossy, earthy, green and spicy than the vintage version. Dry down is kind of linear, finally darker (plums, patchouli, tuberose??), yumier, in line with a part of the modern more "massive" musky-floral perfumery and a vague reminiscence of golden left over floral/tonkinian/resinous/vanillic/musky dry downs a la Cacharel LouLou. A good bright (more "classic in style") alternative to the various "new style" Eliee Saab Le Parfum, Narciso Rodriguez for her or the Alien's variations.

22nd September, 2018 (last edited: 23rd September, 2018)

R'osa by Acqua di Portofino

Acqua di Portofino R'osa is a refined powdery/musky accord of heliotropic rose/jasmine and fruity white musk. Tropical fruits and bergamot provide initially an aura which is all at once classic and exotic, while musk unfolds a sort of darker woodsy mossy neutraly. Opening is definitely wet, peppery, sparkling and hesperidic, a complex aristocratic blast and the most conservative (though vaguely fruity exotic) part of the whole olfactory appointment. The woman wearing R'osa is indeed extremely chic, vaguely snooty, slightly conservative and "high class" in her white linen-wide white trousers, the Hermes foulard, the 70's Ysl sun glasses and the wide brimmed hat. A vanillic core soon emerges with its charge of ambery/poudree brightness and a soapy sense of arcane rosey cleanliness. Sambac jasmine is the main floral presence so soapy and candid while rose emerges gradually in all its gorgeous musky neutrality. The general aura is talky and floral (with a spicy-musky, neutral and extremely chic secret background) with a tad of lofty exoticism conjuring cruise ships, gran galà and unforgetable happy memories.
03rd September, 2018 (last edited: 04th September, 2018)
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Frutto della Passione / Passion Fruit by L'Erbolario

Bitter herbal (in the opening vaguely licoricey, cinnamonic and with a sweet/bitter burnt sugar-vibe) and soon fruity, classically chyprey, rooty/earthy, kind of berrish (raspberries/blackberries, passion fruit?), definitely resinous and vaguely stuffy-retro, something in the middle between Chacharel Eden, Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois, Etro Magot and The Vagabond Prince Enchanted Forest, overall in a very cheap but dignified format (as usual for L'Erbolario).
22nd August, 2018

Hugo Dark Blue by Hugo Boss

A fancy "downtown night out fragrance" with a citric/suedish twist, woods and a touch of cool resin. Yes a grower. Elegant and masculine (yes kind of "sporty/generic"). Ginger and sage provide a cool aromatic temperament. I get finally leather. Cool for clubbing and night-dates.
13th August, 2018

Aoud Sense by Montale

Aoud Sense is a simple creation based on a virile accord of spicy tangerine, synth ambergris, resins, rose and restrained woods. The rose-element is spicy, restrained and melancholic (because of woods and orange providing spicy/citrusy intensity). The citric element is central, slightly juicy and vaguely piquant (kind of masculine). The oudish presence affors a kind of finally resinous twist. A strong powerful testosteronic fragrance for sensualists and gymnastical fellows.
07th August, 2018

Prada L'Homme by Prada

Soapy/musky tonka, fresh cardamom, patchouli, talky iris and sharper geranium. Clean and soapy a la JpG Le Male (just less musky/aromatic and finally more discreet and classy). Patchouli jumps up after a while providing balance, a tad of structure and subtleness. Cardamom is fluidy (kind of "liquid"). Elegant but frankly too "inoffensive" and un-temperamental. Honestly not my genre.
29th July, 2018

Macaque by Zoologist Perfumes

A green, vegetal, botanic, eastern (far asian), meditative, harmonious atmosphere. Damp, fruity, fizzy-medicinal, gummy-aldehydic, musky greenness. Frankly the opening is kind of insufferable, one of the "hardest to tame" in contemporary perfumery. Zoologist Macaque's opening is super fizzy, sparkling and citric indeed, almost bursting of dry fruitiness, citric/berrish acidity and green bitterness. There is a tad of woodiness, some gumminess and "resinousity" as well, since this first stage under my ridiculus nose of province. A green tea's presence starts emerging with its charge of "angular fluidity" and floral leafiness. Synth resins, galbanum, green tea and sour fruitiness are the main elements of the fragrance's core. I definitely detect green apple and citrus. Something conjures me the grassy-gummy atmosphere aroused by scents from brands a la Oriza L. Legrand (Chypre Mousse) or Testa Maura (Carticasi). I detect this "secular forest's fresh-humus-aroma" rich of leaves, barks, cistus, mastic, mould, pine needles, aromatic herbs and oakmoss. Galbanum, connected to tart fruitiness and resins, arouses a sort of plastic pharmaceutical effect. I get more aoud than frankincense to bè honest (resins are more woody than ambery or incensey). Gradually, along the way, soothing balsams, honey, woody resins and floral patterns take softening the angular leafiness in order to provide a less vegetal and more properly musky-floral kind of vibe. Tea is still dominant but in a softer muskier floral way. In particular honey and white/yellow flowers provide a sort of mimosa/chamomille/magnolia/ylang-ylang-feel a la L'Erbolario Magnolia (fantastic fragrance). On this stage the juice is far more balanced, tamed, wise and harmonious (despite it is better to wait 3 hours before the huge fizzy tartness begins fading on the right level). The final wake is still musky-green but far less fruity and more kind of lightly rubbery, tea-oriented, honeyed and woody (but still too monolithic and intense for my full pleasure).
23rd July, 2018

Eryo Blue by Yves Rocher

A sort of icy kind of Cool Water finally light, inoffensive, crisp and metallic. Boring and ozonic.
21st July, 2018

Replica Soul of the Forest by Martin Margiela

Replica perfectly manages in here to combine a ashy/rubbery kind of spiritual leather aesthetic (with a sort of meditative steaming Buddhist Monastery's atmosphere), with a typically indie North American crude mossiness from the wilderness, a misty bitter herbal botanical alchemic twist and the darker more impenetrable mossy atmosphere from the appalling northern forests. A sort of Ideal combination of Profvmum Arso, Slumberhouse Norne (the soul of the forest), Veejaga Hashish Homme, Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia, Armani Privè Bois d'Encens and Tom Ford Bois Marocain. The dominant smoky vibe is gummy but tending to a sort of impervious rocky aridity. Cistus and patchouli enhances an evident earthiness just vaguely coloured by faint berrish fruity accents. A rubbery, incensey, darkly woodsy, mystic and assertive fragrance.
08th July, 2018

Replica Jazz Club by Martin Margiela

The smooth Replica Jazz Club hardly manages to evoke the licentious american jazz clubs-ambiences because of its kind of yummy too generically linear (un-dirty, un-boozy and seriously un-smokey) woody mellifluence. It is a quite vanillic sweety tobacco's rendition with a touch of Sheridan's and some dry woodiness. Jazz Club is indeed nothing more than a pleasant take on woody vanilla combined with yummy tobacco, neroli (quite present) and rum-cream. I even detect this generic woody (pencil-shavings like) vibe which is nowadays boring and mainstream. For a better alternative on the tasty theme stick to Franck Boclet Tobacco, Xerjoff Join the Club: Kind of Blue or several chep vanille tobaccos out there.
08th July, 2018

Lancetti Homme by Lancetti

Lancetti Lui (Homme) is a refined spicy/green/aromatic fragrance for men, founded on a well calibrated accord of citrus, artemisia, spicy geranium, resins, cedarwood and vetiver. The juice is classic in execution but quite modern and wearable. Aromatic herbs exalt the mediterranean nature of the juice. A minimal addition of soothing vanilla and tulu balsam (well combined with mild spices, resins, lemon and greens) soothens the elements providing a fantastically smooth refined final trail (spicy, citrusy, delicately floral, slightly balmy-resinous and vetiver-laced). Patchouli emerges gradually, well connected to subtle frankincense, vetiver and spices. Classy-virile-restrained-woody (a la Battistoni Marte, just spicier and brighter), fresh and vaguely exotic-resinous (a la Montana Parfum d'Homme). A great fragrance for office-wear but also for a "southern unforgetable spring time mediterranean holiday".
24th June, 2018

Vanille Noire by Yves Rocher

A well calibrated synth woody vanilla with fruity accents (never overly sultry a la Bottega Verde Vaniglia Nera). Subtle, dry and close to skin.
21st June, 2018
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L'Envol by Cartier

A simple, well blended piece of refinement from the venerable house of Cartier. L'Envol is a dry modern honeyed masculine chypre with a neutral, mild (but at same time kind of vaguely salty/incensey), moderately resinous, musky, woody poudree consistency. Clean but shadowy (somewhat in chiaroscuro). Musk (probably dominant) is kind of talky, green, woody, vaguely floral (iris and geranium?), all in one quite sophisticated close to skin concoction. I suppose hints of fresh vetiver and patchouli provide masculine dry balance and aromatic "neutrality" counteracting mild resins and central honey. Guaiac wood as usual smells mild, "perfumed", well rounded. The juice smells finally talky/airy and really subtle in its more complex final musky spark (the more articulated lingering ghostly background).
04th June, 2018

Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens

Tested it back recently. This juice is all about spicy orange blossoms, hesperides and tuberose (a scent which I hardly crave for). Spiciness (mostly dissonant warm cumin and mild piquancy) is evident providing a sort of carnal sultry floral vibe all around. Dry down is drier and floral in a more complex way (kind of soapy and rosey, than with a sophisticated spark of chic floral twist). Sexy.
02nd June, 2018

Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens

Supreme sombre/neutral resinous (almost edible) smoothness, a spicy melange of musky (powdery) iris, labdanum, resins and balminess, a scent initially somewhat humid/earthy/rooty but finally musky and rubbery (galbanum and frankincense) with a spicy leafy/floral undiscernible spark. Iris is dominant (though the floral vibe is more complex), kind of boise, spicy (mostly cloves) "lipstick" and definitely smooth a la V&A Bois d'Iris. Incense and amber provide a quite misty/resinous/powdery/suedish/gummy pop-clubby dark atmosphere. Refined (with its earthy-floral twist) and glamour, definitely avantgarde for the time it was conceived.
01st June, 2018

Zagara by Via Dei Mille

Neroli, bergamot and petitgrain. Simple but effective, the aroma of Sicily, the closiest thing to the iconic Zagara di Sicilia by La Barbera.
31st May, 2018

Mélodie de L'Amour by Parfums Dusita

An indolic - narcotic - musky - vaguely animalic - neo-classic tuberose/jasmine-chord "civilized" by a well calibrated gardenia's support. Supremely floral, musky-dirty, heliotropic and honeyed. I'm somewhat sure that a significant dose of civet is included in the mix. Try to ideally "melt" together the peachy/coconutty tuberose of Bois 1920 Sensual Tuberose and an indolic honeyed jasmine a la Bruno Fazzolari Au Dela', well Dusita Melodie de L'Amour will definitely disclose its main essence. There is for a while more than a tad of the stale (kind of flower pot's "rotten" water like) civet-laced dirty graveyard's water-effect conjuring me partially scents a la Corticchiato's Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin, Dusita Oudh Infini or La Via del Profumo Tawaf plus the support of a "to a tuberose-connected" gardenia a la Onyrico Zephiro. Lily of the valley enhances the general floral intensity along the way. An obsessive sambac jasmine smells slightly dominant (after the initial tuberose's explosion) under my unfaithful nose. Overall the scent is kind of merged in to a sort of intense neo-chypreism a la Bogue Maai (and partially a la Zoologist Civet) and in to a generally classic floral grandeur a la Piguet Fracas. Yes a must try for any tuberose/jasmine-accord's addicted.
23rd May, 2018 (last edited: 24th May, 2018)

Le Sillage Blanc by Parfums Dusita

Well, if you appreciate the great Acampora Sballo Le Sillage Blanc could definitely be a choice of yours. This juice is really really close to the notorious Acampora's one, just being LSB soapier, warmer and simpler on structure (I'd say darker and stronger as well). This juice is damp, musky, earthy, leathery, rosey and neo-classic (a soapy chypre kind of contemporary mossy interpretation). A mossy galbanum's presence is responsible of the general musky dampness, smooth and silvan, perfectly "counterparted" by aromatic herbs, hay-like tobacco, barks and dry leaves. Neroli is a key element (earthy, grassy, humid and woody) as supported by earthy wet patchouli and probably rooty vetiver. I detect the bark-vibe while tobacco and ambrette seed warm the juice up with an intense kind of organic soapy feel. Leather is notable, perfectly supported by rosey soapiness, herbs, roots, earth and muskiness. Yes I perceive a sort of fairy tale like enchanted woody atmosphere conjuring the idea of dark rocky mountains-woods, streams, damp earth, secular trees and massive barks. The scent of the wilderness with a secret classic refinement. Excellent.
16th May, 2018 (last edited: 17th May, 2018)

Narciso Poudrée by Narciso Rodriguez

A yummy/candied (poudree/talky-like) balmy heavenly cloud of musky vanilla and bulgarian rose (with a fresh spacious vetiver-laced floral background), like combining together Narciso Rodriguez for Woman, Dior Addict, Cacharel Loulou, Etro Heliotrope, Amber at Vanille E.Coudray and some Xerjoff Join the Club Collection (Kind of Blue?), overall amalgamated by this landmark NR's synth pop-chic "cosmetical" musk. Jasmine jumps up gradually on the stage. Impossible to resist. Yeeeeesss.
10th May, 2018

La Douceur de Siam by Parfums Dusita

Dusita La Douceur de Siam is one of the best musky rose/violet/ylang-ylang-combos out there. Spicy, soapy, refined, vaguely sultry and extremely floral. If you like scents a la Givenchy Ysatis, Cartier La Panthere or Armani Onde Mystere you will definitely appreciate this carefree and bright floral bouquet. A musky/classy fragrance rich of charme and exoticism, founded on a resinous ambery sandalwood's basis. Ylang-ylang utterly enhances the musky/lipstick/kind of cosmetical widespread refinement finally counteracted by a more realistic and natural earthy/leafy floral vibe. A spacious fragrance with a powerful projection. Spices and ylang-ylang play a central role imo. Along the way rose becomes dominant, gradually more and more musky, spicy and soapy. Extremely sophisticated and feminine accord for a dynamic indipendent kind of woman.
09th May, 2018 (last edited: 10th May, 2018)

Light Blue Italian Zest by Dolce & Gabbana

A pleasant initial blast of soft lemon and undiscernible synth fruits is quickly ruined by the nowadays usual mediocre synth "pencil shavings" cedar (which I tend to be annoyed by). This cedary presence, in a while supported by bright florals and soapy musk, is unfortunately tenacious on my skin. The note of amber (dry ambergris-like) provides a tad virile final twist of restraint counteracting the faint general musky soapiness. Stick better with the original D&G Pour Homme, especially in its old formulations or the new made in France one.
05th May, 2018

Issara by Parfums Dusita

Parfums Dusita Issara is a surprising tobacco-accord re-introducing the amazing Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Hilde Soliani Bell'Antonio's "dry-tobacco woody theme" although in this case without the toasted coffee's presence and overall basically in to a greener/muskier finally soapier way. The note of tobacco is dominant, mild and seasoned, still spicy, virile, restrained and piquant a la Bell'Antonio (just finally a tad smoother) but more wet, citric and aromatic. All the rest is quite accessorial (despite vetiver, hay, tonka and ambergris play an influencing role) under my grotesque mediterranean nose. Opening is hesperidic, piney, sharply herbal, mossy, woody-liquid (vetiver) and dry-spicy (on a certain extent) a la Terre d'Hermes. In particular hesperides, pepper, cedar and vetiver initially elicit the sharp TdH's vibe though in a less herbal and more brisk-fluidy coniferous way. While musk is like a ghost (sheer in the opening and gradually evanescent along the way) ambergris is finally a key element providing piquancy and restraint. Dry hay is another fundamental pattern imprinting the arid wooden effect (a sort of seasoned mild/woody vibe strictly connected to tobacco). Finally the juice is all about dry woody tobacco and ambergris, just slightly soothed by a minimal touch musk and tonka bean (the latter enhancing the mild almost soapy final wake). An excellent juice for all the lovers of a dry/woody/seasoned idea of tobacco. A comforting virile woody fragrance painting an enchanted "countryside like" botanical and rural sort of impressionistic "Provencal" scenario.
01st May, 2018 (last edited: 26th May, 2018)

Aoud Purple Rose by Montale

Plastic candied/lipstick rosey smell. Anonymous and medicinal, the umpteenth symbol of the Montale's useless "oudish" redundancy.
25th April, 2018

150 Days to Summer by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

150 Days to Summer is basically a super spicy, aromatic and fizzy/gingery accord of grapefruit, hesperides, rose and blackcurrant, finally soothed by tonka and hints of balsams. Rose emerges gradually languid, soapy, barbeshop and citric. Simple in structure this accord is untamed, bitter and kind of agrestic. This smell is like a wild horse hard to tame, a raw unperfect crude natural accord. There is a kind of mentholated vibe throughout (aromatic herbs are actually a significant feature), even cinnamonic, herbal, gingery, vaguely "laundry/neutral" and lemony/orangy. A sparkling juice evoking a sunny day in the middle of the nature.
16th April, 2018

Fleur de Lalita by Parfums Dusita

A quite chic and joyful bouquet. Dusita Fleur de Lalita opens with a blast of soapy spicy/gingery magnolia a la Mark Buxton Devil in Disguise. Magnolia is heady in this phase side by side with rose (definitely musky, neutral, vaguely leafy and super soapy). As joined to jasmine, lily of the valley, rose and tuberose It provides a quite sophisticated (vaguely fizzy, significantly musky and definitely soapy) floral bright accord. A basic classic chord of musk, sandalwood and ylang-ylang exudes a gorgeous classy freshly floral aura (for a grand radiant urban dynamic woman). The general musky soapiness represents the modern side of this "carefree" creation (contemporary but with a classic background - Armani Onde Mystere, Sergio Soldano Proibito etc). Finally rose stands out musky and slightly "stale" on my skin, with its languid "neo-victorian" twist well assembled in a more "current" musky-floral melange. Magnolia is still there with its bold impenetrable (vaguely cold) appeal. A charismatic juice for a self confident woman which loves to stand out in a freshly floral musky way.
PS: finally the intensity of lily of the valley, tuberose and Jasmine comes out spicy and intense (vaguely fruity/berrish) providing a quite pungent sophisticated floral spark in air.
09th April, 2018

Erawan by Parfums Dusita

Dusita Erawan is a subtle blend of elements coming ideally straight "outta" a sprouting up greenish damp countryside's silvan undergrowth. Muskiness, an hay-driven undertone, languid (somewhat balsamic) floral notes and (vaguely lipstick) balminess mingle together in to a quite graceful super-balanced whisper of "Primavera". Hay unfolds a dry/brown woody-cedary feel which is gradually mellowed by vanillic soapiness and floral smooth muskiness. This juice unfolds a sheer sense of cleanliness and an almost "edible" floral muskiness. The smell is delicate while providing a sense of woman-skin moisturized by an idratant/nourishing floral cream. Dry down is pure sospiness like a subtle and discreet sort of Elie Saab Le Parfum. Nothing particularly original but a sophisticated and sensual musky scent for a measured woman.
26th March, 2018

Oudh Infini by Parfums Dusita

My first approach with the Parfums Dusita Maison is consummated directly with its "olfactory frontman" the notorious Oudh Infini. A glorious main accord of "detergent" leafy rose (elusive and perverted), "cosmetical" balsams and musky/resinous civet of unparalleled impact. This fragrance, because of its undeniable furious (almost acid) animalism, is definitely a quite hard to tame sort of wild crazy horse but nevertheless (as for a weird kind of poisonous miracle) it finally manages to express a surprising sort of decadent refinement as the most mannerist baroquely decadent twists in perfumery. Well, one of the most supremely rosey introductions in perfumery and more in general a seriously visceral musky/resinous rose-chypre of the olfactory panorama. Right out of the gate you will be petrified by a draculaesque and medieval pultaceous rose with no frills, with a top hat and a black cloak. In case you appreciate scents a la Perris Montecarlo Rose de Taif, Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh, Acampora Sballo or Paul Emilien L'Esprit Divin well, Oud Infini should be a more "palatine" and carnally aristocratic alternative for the most refined palates. This oudish rosey/woody muskiness conjures me partially the Montale Black Aoud's musky accord but whereas the Montale's one is muskier and "paradoxically" brighter Oudh Infini is darker, dirtier, wilder and more aristocratically structured (It sounds like a further paradox considering the general animalic atmosphere of the juice). A superb oudish soapiness (finally kind of "waxy/lipstick", subtle and sophisticated), smooth musk, creamy sandalwood, spices (possibly saffron and kurkuma), resins and warm civet envelop the Queen rose in a sort of arcane embrace. The oudish presence is kind of smokey, sombre, saturnine, wooden and vaguely rubbery a la By Kilian Pure Oud. I detect a mouldy kind of earthiness as undertone, a sort (at least at the beginning) humid cocktail of wild flowers, orange blossoms, fir resins, hay, roots, earth, camphoraceous muskiness and counteracting arid woodiness, overall conjuring me more the vaguely the more flowery Acampora Sballo's woodsy/damp "chypreism" straight from the humid woods. However, wheres Sballo holds on its bright, fresh, grassy and boise natural (somewhat Victorian) run, Oudh Infini turns soon out nastier and dirtier. Civet (a "flowerpot's kind of dirty stale water-rotten aroma") gradually turns out dirtier, utterly stale and saltier, transforming the juice in to an extraordinary (wonderfully contradictory) blend of warm wild malevolent animalism and royal mannered (somewhat affected) decadence, something classically virile and seriously baroque. Animalism, resinous and culinary spiciness are perfectly balanced and finally soothed by exotic balsams and soapy/waxy resins a la Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia (another fragrance more than vaguely jumping on mind). Dry down is somewhat stale and organic while smelling the juice quite close to skin but still incredibly refined and subtle at distance. A contemporary perfumed rendition of medieval and historical atmospheres this fragrance, though not properly a one of a kind in its genre, is definitely a must try for all the rose-addicted and the perfumistas with a passion for epic poetry, romanticism and gothic ambiences.

22nd March, 2018 (last edited: 23rd March, 2018)

L'Esprit Divin by Paul Emilien

Excellent "rose/saffronish oudh driven" combo based on a classic connection of saffron, dusty mild spices, an earthy musky violet leaves/rose-accord (royal and neo-Victorian a la Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition) and woods a la Dueto Parfums City Oud, Perris Montecarlo Rose de Taif or Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh although this juice is turned out particularly intense by creamy spices, grapefruit, frankincense and by a final warmly virile animalic note (probably an oudish/musky/rosey civet a la Dusita Oud Infini). Since the opening the dominant floral accord smells earthy and leafy for a while on my skin. A messy tornado of further elements (herbal notes, amber, may be myrrh, floral notes and tobacco leaves) enhances the complexity of the olfactory orchestra. The highly resinous/rosey/animalic spiciness (finally more ambery than musky) conjures me decidedly the Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia's regal balmy/soapy Rinascimental exoticism. Spices and tobacco provide structure and solidity. Paul Emilien L'Esprit Divin is one of the rare resinous oudh/rose's structured renditions. An almost tribal and ritual blend of spices and resins which will definitely inebriate your senses.
20th March, 2018 (last edited: 22nd March, 2018)

Shiny Amber by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

Shiny amber is a quite pretty spicy/watery amber-based fragrance introducing itself with a sort of neo-victorian (hesperides, poudree amber and jasmine) "aplomb" which is immediately kind of soapy-hesperidic and vaguely anisic at same time. Resins are counteracted by citrus and light/airy watery spices, overall in a quite light and versatile sort of fluidy combination. The citric presence smells classic, structured and more than vaguely "cologney" (conjuring in part a sort of "Guerlain Aqua Allegoria's royal atmosphere"). Ginger provides the initial kind of airy/aromatic/minty/anisic twist. I detect cardamom enhancing the fluidy light spiciness while a benzoinic ambery base is a perfect kind of talky shelter for a dominant jasmine's presence. Dry down, though never groundbreaking, smells more than dignified, drier, mossier and delicately refined. A vibrant, light and versatile amber's implementation which (though always organic and warm) smells kind of neo-classic but at same time cleaner, simpler, vaguely rubbery, delicately powdery and essential. The overall effect smells as a kind of synthesis and re-interpretation of two traditional olfactory dimensions (cologney/hesperidic/naïf and powdery/talky chypre).
16th March, 2018