Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2440

Spezie by Lorenzo Villoresi

Lorenzo Villoresi is a genius of italian perfumery, a Maestro of balance and perfection. Spezie is perfect measure and olfactory resinous/aromatic bliss. Actually if you are in to herbal/spicy/aromatic resins (and partially in to liquid spicy frankincenses) this juice could be a must for you. You could love Spezie if you are in to barber-shop "fluidy" frankincenses as well. Spezie is a lovely green and soapy-resinous clove/cinnamon/cumin's symposium. The latter smells kind of waxy/incensey, rosey, vaguely liturgical, "by kurkuma-veined", balmy and aromatic. Tomato leaves, aromatic garden's herbs and sage provide a powerfully "cool" green feel. The scent which more than others conjures me Villoresi Spezie is Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia which is a more resinous but less spicy/aromatic kind of experience. Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre and partially Sideris with their spicy/resinous exuberance are fragrances partially jumping on mind as well. There is also a classic "toiletries/room cleaner barber-shop" kind of aromatic waxy undertone all around. Peppery? Herbal? Mmm, yes but not exclusively. Soapy/aromatic? Liquid/resinous? Right, yes, this is what this fragrance smells more properly like under my borderline nose of province. Spezie, in a nutshell, is definitely rich of aromatic herbs and spices but overall is a soapy, smooth, cool and resinous mélange. Spices and herbs are just central parts of a more articulate smoother affair in which smoldering balsams and aromatic-soapy resins are mastering (and where spices flavour up and colour the resinous "basis"). It seems (ostensibly) like some ferns take part to ceremony. Dry down is a vaguely talky/rosey piece of spicy/aromatic powder. A spark of neutral floral sophistication emerges gradually from the soap. A tad of frankincense (combined with myrrh and labdanum) a la Etro Mess de Minuit? It seems to catch partially that feel. Soapiness is finally warm and erotic. A unisex piece of waxy sensuality.
08th January, 2019 (last edited: 12th January, 2019)

Cuir Caraïbes by David Jourquin

David Jourquin Cuir Caraibes evidently conjures the Caribbean dreamy atmosphere (experienced back in the time by its creator there between Guadeloupe, Cuba and Saint Barth) and is one of the veritable exotic juices I've tested on skin in which juicy tropical fruitiness, windy/airy greenness and sophisticated ambery luxuriousness merge together in a finally warm irresistible embrace (paradoxically fresh/warm, wild/refined, sweet/salty). A fantastic fruity/gingery leather with an unmistakable exotic evocative power. The spirit of Caribe emerges immediately with the first vibrant intoxicating wet/aromatic "splash" on skin (rich of fresh ginger, piquant cardamom, citrus and exotic fruits). Leather is immediately there from the back but it's a fruity fresh spacious summery leather (it seems to perceive a fresh wind on your face, a breezy blast rich of mango, kiwi, spices, light floral notes, salty molecules, citrus and freshly cut grass). The presence of fluidy cardamom seems evident and it smells watery, boozy (a tad of white rhum?) and sparkling. The fruity vibe is rich of exoticism with its banana/kiwi-like vibe while vetiver and possibly ylang-ylang provide a typical breezy dreamy far lands-evoking twist. Gradually woods emerge but a realistic sense of smooth milky (figgy-like) fruitiness masters the suedish scene (a sort of banana/fig smoothie-undertone). Dry down is a cottony grazing of soft suede and soapy figgy amber quite fruity, erotic and irresistible.
06th January, 2019

Black Pepper & Sandalwood by Acca Kappa

The fragrance's style (vaguely victorian, artistic and colonial) conjures me partially the Floris/Crabtree & Evelyn/Etro's ones but the general refinement and articulation are not so marked. This juice is all about sandalwood and pungent spices (black pepper, saffron and ginger in particular) and a few more. Development is dull and short on time while a weird sense of wet crudeness (probably provided by ginger, cumin or kurkuma and which I dislike) permeates the elements. Rose? Not under my profane nose. Dry down is lot focused on nutmeg and cinnamon. The plenty of piquant spices provides a sort of arabesque undertone. A luxurious palatin decadent concept, a fragrance for Carnival-parties and nocturnal baroquesque rendez vous.
28th December, 2018
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Cuir Tabac by David Jourquin

Cuir Tabac, my first emotional approach with the David Jourquin-olfactory experience, is a quite serious affair, an intellectual juice for the modern edonist (bold and daring, a contemporary gentleman with a nineteenth-century romantic/adventurous spirit), a laborious twist of realistic patchouli (quite rooty, woodsy and earthy), dry cigar tobacco (fragrant and vivid), boozy/resinous (vaguely liquorous and incensey) spices, soothing balmy suede and aromatic urban soapy lavender (the fougere hidden vaguely barber-shop final whiff, paradoxically the modern city side of the darkly historical olden affair). In a nutshell not a stuff for lovers of simplistic easily approachable airy "waters". I'd split the story in two separate parts: the superb dramatic "fluffy" agrestic opening (almost "agricole" in its flamboyant fragrant naturalistic crudeness) and the perfectly refined timeless aromatic/suedish dry down. In the middle a kaleidoscopic mesmerising transition not easy to be discerned. Sticky and vaguely mystic this huge creation opens in a complicated intoxicating/smokey way which is something ideally connecting the most obscure Slumberhouse's like Sova or Kote with voluptuous greedy/intellectual leathers a la Hdp 1740 Marquis de Sade, impenetrable urban "conceptual" viney juices a la Rundholz 03.Apr.1968 and dark bohemian revelations a la Zoologist Civet, House of Matriarch Bohemian Black and Masque Tango. Anyway, probably the creations conjuring me mostly this obscure introduction are the iconic Italian fragrance Visconti di Modrone Tabacco d'Harar (misty, virile, strong on botanic earthiness/leafiness/rootiness and historical) and the wonderful resinous/incensey patchouli Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir (decadent and lascivious but never so rooty/earthy). Veejaga Hashish Homme is another juice jumping vaguely on mind for its articulated rooty soul. The Cuir Tabac's opening is substantially more than compelling with its viney licoricey "burnt sugar/earthy-rooty notes/smoke/immortelle-like" good punch in the teeth. I detect dusty resins and honeyed spices in the "stuffy" mélange but a bucolic realistic tobacco leaf's presence is heady and characteristic. Along the way the fury of elements starts to calm down and the georgic temperament of the aroma gradually fades in order to leave the stage to a more "wearable" and light aromatic leather/tobacco-centered foundation. The sweetly liquorous/woody spark is still there (lighter) with its vintage/stuffy appeal but the final trail is all about virile aromatic tobacco with leathery accents, a tad of woody powder and a lighter/fresher soapy aromatic vibe (the contemporary side of the moon). Thick precious woods-made fornitures, gentlemen clubs, cigars, whisky, soft music, massive frames endowed-pictures and soft leather sofà jump ideally on mind. A must have for all the tobacco-addicted with a classy and literary sense of life.
25th December, 2018 (last edited: 26th December, 2018)

NO ± Suede by Uèr Mì

A quite stout leather-juice really warm, gently resinous, woody, vaguely talky/ambery/aromatic (at the end of the journey) and sensual. A beast with a romantic dusty soul. A powdery/aromatic (though not properly balsamic) take on spicy leather (yes aromatic safraleine) which, if not properly modern, natural or innovative, smells somewhat vivid and owns all the credentials to compete with several renowned leathers though not properly managing to lord over many of them. Uer mi No Suede starts with a intoxicating blast of simil spicy tobacco vaguely a la Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Bell'Antonio (an apparent feeling quite peppery, saffrony, ostensibly boozy, liquid/incensey and mild), aqueous leather (a la Cuir de Lancome) and quite "sticky" frankincense. The aroma changes in a few seconds on my skin. The spicy tobacco's apparent feel evolves in to something woody, mild and powdery a la Le Labo Patchouli 24. Guaiac wood (joined to subtle well rounding fruity notes and florals) is by soon a key element able to civilize the initially piquant leather with a balancing mildly woody touch (quite perfect, ambery, fruity and spicy floral). Several undiscernible floral patterns pop immediately up kind of fleeting (in a short while somewhat evanescent but "still in the air"), taking briefly part to the stormy ceremony. In a couple of minutes a boisterous leather-vibe takes completely the scene as the absolute protagonist, waving in the air in to a virile, rubbery and resinous (almost gasolinic) way a la Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia (which "sounds" less properly leathery, less mild, less complex but definitely more rubbery, misty and smoky). The more the juice evolves the more it turns out kind of warm, powdery-ambery and refined (yes in a more modern subtle-chic way). Probably the addition of "animalics" enhances the general powdery warmth (which is not literally a hot feel but something encompassing the senses with a kind of talky-suedish-resinous-animalic twist). Virile and multifaceted (florals, woody notes, fruity patterns, spices, suede, rubber, resins) ambery creation, though nothing properly avant-gard of particularly daring. A more than decent job in any case.
23rd December, 2018 (last edited: 24th December, 2018)

Aromatics in Black by Clinique

Tested it just on the paper unfortunately. Anyway, if you are nostalgic of classic "White/Musky/Aldehyidic" scents a la Cacharel LouLou, Anais Anais, Biagiotti Roma, vintage D&G Pour Femme, Parah or Dior Addict, Aromatics In Black could bè a more simplistic and actual choice on the theme. Somewhat nothing in common with the giant of its colossal "burning" ancestor (the immortal Aromatics Elixir). Osmanthus, may be freesia, sambac jasmine and cool talky muskiness provide a languid essence rich of "robotic" metropolitan elusiveness. Despite the resinous benzoinic structure and the dark oriental intriguing soul, Aromatics in Black possesses a touch of the talky chyprey diaphane radiancy of left back powdery beasts a la E. Coudray Amber et Vanille or Grossmith Phul-Nana. More over, In Black is anyway a contemporary olfactory twist and you can catch a minty-frosty (vaguely anisic, cool, intoxicating and slightly lipstick) modern vibration connecting this juice to modern glamour-chic renouned creations a la Alien, Ange ou Demon, Very Irresistibile or stuff like those. Urban and wintery this is a juice for a modern dark lady of the "pop/funky" shimmering megalopololi's night out.
16th December, 2018 (last edited: 17th December, 2018)

Terre d'Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver by Hermès

Same old story, overly woody, synth and "pencil shavings" under my profane nose, an overly strong woody/gassy/peppery twist over the original Terre d'Herme's perfect formula. Along its short evolution Eau Intense Vetiver seems to wave between a whichever woody dry Montale, CdG Wonderwood (dry wet woodiness), modern pencil shavings stuffs (a la Carbone de Balmain, CdG Black, Gucci Pour Homme I, Autoportrait by Olfactive Studio etc), the original well calibrated formula and overly woody synth generic current woody/peppery/leathery aromas a la Fan di Fendi Pour Homme, several Armani or tons of stuffs in the same league. Do you want a real crack on the rough woody agrestic theme? I definitely recommend the superb Etro Vetiver. Not for me.
16th December, 2018 (last edited: 17th December, 2018)

Paradis Lointains by Olibere Parfums

Olibere Paradis Lointains is a weird tropical mélange. This fragrance is fruity-spicy (lot of pepper), floral, resinous and musky, there is some saltiness working alongside a sort of sultry general exotic aura vaguely transcendent, oddly moody, translucent and elusive. Spicy/incensey tuberose, ozonic elements, musk, undiscerned (kind of tart and "red") fruity notes, ylang-ylang, leafy gardenia and waxy patterns are heady under my vulgar nose. Pepper, citrus, gardenia, sour fruity notes and ozonics elicit the main obsessive restrained leafy-acid theme of the olfactory fatigue. I definitely detect the Bertrand Duchaufour's spicy resinous (vaguely incensey or anyway "dusty-peppery") landmark twist. Tuberose is neither "carnal" nor creamy/sweet (or redolent) but kind of elusive, acid, tart and adumbrated. The fruity element is sour, intense, berrish and slightly fizzy, it joins the resinous notes in a general musky/piquant/acid atmosphere which is slightly minty, rubbery, (vaguely) plastic/xerox toner-like and aldehyidic like in to an indeal marriage between something "hyperbaric" and medicinal a la Andrea Maack Silk/Sharp and the post-modernism of CdG Odeur 71/Odeur 53. Not for me, the "suspended abstractism" of this juice is kind of impersonal, stuck and rare for my personal stereotype of golden multifaceted vibrant aroma.

01st December, 2018 (last edited: 02nd December, 2018)

Capriccio (original) by Gandini 1896

Old school spicy feminine chypre a la Morris Gocce di Napoleon. Lot of aldehydes and hesperides.
21st November, 2018

100 - 1914-2014 by E. Marinella

Piney/leathery/musky/citric perfection. No words to describe the beauty of this "immane" piece of italian sophistication. One of the veritable most sophisticated leather-based creations of the worldwide olfactory panorama. Fir resins, barks and greens provide a quite moody/restrained classy vibe. Musk and pink pepper enhance a markedly woody (rosewood?) masculine twist. A melancholic citric-woody suede, rich, elusive and royal. The balance's holy peak.
14th November, 2018 (last edited: 16th November, 2018)

Tabacco Imperiale by E. Marinella

Tobacco is one of my veritable favorite notes in perfumery. This E. Marinella's "based on a tobacco-foundation" creation is an "Imperial" take on tonkinian tobacco and one of my favorite takes on the exotic raw material along with Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Bell'Antonio, I profumi di Firenze Tabacco, Slumberhouse Baque, 525 Bourbon French Parfums For Man, Daniel Josier Ambre Tabac, Odori, Naomi Goodsir Bois d'Ascese, Santa Maria Novella Tabacco Toscano, Eau d'Italie Bois d'Ombrie, C&S Cuba, Note 33 Le Royal, Aramis Havana, Masque Montecristo, Remy Latour Cigar, Maison Margiela Jazz Club, Demeter Pipe Tobacco and Aquaflor Firenze La Habana (still looking forward to test for the first time Cuir Tabac David Jourquin for man). E. Marinella is a luxurious italian "high tailoring and luxury accessories" maison founded in Napoli. Tabacco Imperiale perfectly embodies the refined and classy philosophy of the brand. This fragrance opens with a intoxicating spicy/boozy blast (mild but never over the limit and kind of spicy/hesperidic) in order to evolve in to a exotic (but drier) ambery tobacco with nuances of cocoa beans, rum, spices, aromatic herbs and citrus. Fantastically balanced and perfectly blended concoction. A "far lands vanillic tonka bean" is a key element (well calibrated and never excessive) perfectly laced with spicy rum, tobacco and ylang-ylang (a further protagonist) in a quite evocative caribbean accord which is anyway moderated and held down to earth by a masterly italian old-school fougere twist. The final outcome is quite masculine, warm and seriously refined (but at same time slightly dirty, wild and sultry - due to a interaction between amber, resins and tobacco). Cocoa is definitely accessorial, never intrusive and kind of ideally "on the fence". Tobacco is never ashy or smoky (nor honeyed or typically pipe), it is basically leafy, agrestic and "perfumed". The juice is finally discreet, dry and really mature (after a long sultry journey). Excellent.
10th November, 2018 (last edited: 14th November, 2018)

Mandala by Masque

Masque Mandala is a really amazing juice straight from the woodland's inscrutable undergrowth. For all the lovers of woody/resinous pushed up spiciness this vaguely "indie" concoction could be the right beast. Opening alternates a sort of immediately intense fruity/viney spiciness, a plain stark woodiness (cedarwood in particular, yet emerging from the background) and a sort of woodsy aromatic mintiness straight from the angelica's greenness and the oakmoss (a mossy labdanum's sylvan general presence) from the deep dark/green forest. There is longly a sort of vaguely acid (ostensibly fruity and viney) tartness (a vibe which is typical of frankincense while combined with a intense fruity spiciness) apparently arousing the idea of a pomegranate/raspberries-presence (elements which are definitely not listed). Cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg represent the core of this "kind of artisanal" juice and these elements are strictly blended with frankincense and animal resins in a sort of almost "gluttonous" wild/bucolic mélange which is "nestled" in to a really dark woodsy general atmosphere of dry leaves, pine needles, bay leaves, laurel, dried fruits, berries and barks (an aura somewhat in the middle between Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles, several super spicy Slumberhouse's and the fruity/boozy Les Liquides Imaginaires Bello Rabello). I get for a while a sort of North American Indie's alchemic wild/artisanal "crudeness" but finally the juice cleans itself up in order to disclose a more civilized and dry spicy/chypre incensey soapy nature (delicate and balmy-woody). Dry down is quite stimulating with its kind of yummy appeal, really warm, smooth, still powerfully incensey, kind of "edible" (fruity-liquorous) and woody in to a creamy/resinous way.
P.S: finally a sort of more gassy woodiness "resists" and this final phase smells less definitely interesting and more nowadays "ordinary" and synthetic.
05th November, 2018 (last edited: 06th November, 2018)

T for Him by Tommy Hilfiger

Zesty, aromatic, floral, soapy, in the same league as Joop Nighflight (which is superior) and many others.
29th October, 2018
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Adidas Champions League by Adidas

Floral aromatic sporty patchouli with a final warmer smoother base of vanillic cashmeran and synth moss. Generic, a nowadays typical blend of dynamic patchouli/lavender, cardamom, ozonic molecules, florals (mostly violet) and warm woodiness. The smell conjures me a lot the "blue" Lanvin L'Homme ideally combined with Paco Rabanne Invictus and many other sporty Axe, Adidas, Boss (vaguely Night Time Bottled) and stuffs like those. Dry down is still metallic but warmer, spicier and sweeter with vague reminiscences of Only the Brave Diesel.
21st October, 2018

Mūsīqá Oud by Nishane

Nishane Musiqa Oud is a great powdery/woody neo chypre accord with talky-aromatic, spicy-incensey, oudish-animalic, woodsy-resinous, ambery and dry pencil shavings accents, like for an ideal mix of L'Artisan Parfumeur All Oudh, Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain, MPeG Parfum d'Habit, Etro Patchouli, Shiseido Basala and Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche (Montale Blu Amber jumps vaguely on mind as well). Opening is wet, intoxicating, dry woody (elements of dryness counteracting the spicy/fruity "wetness"), fruity and spicy incensey, an aromatic tornado quite inebriating and dangerous. A dry bold patchouli "kings up" the general powdery woodsy atmosphere rich of piquant aromatic spices, amber, resins, thirsty woods and oudh. Dry down is soapy-neutral, opaque and animalic. A dry woody/talky bliss, bold and charismatic from this interesting turkish perfum-house. Super tenacious. Recommended for the genre's lovers.
17th October, 2018 (last edited: 18th October, 2018)

Love In White by Creed

Lovely "white" bouquet of bright florals (mostly jasmine, talky iris and elegant magnolia), soapy/poudree balsams, orange blossoms and diaphane resins. The general Love in White's atmosphere is musky and remotely gourmandish. Dry down is almost yummy. Finally sandalwood takes the stage, kind of rosey, vaguely nutty-creamy, orangy and musky. A vaguely nostalgic fragrance. Not that kind of structure or complexity, this fragrance smells like a sort of classic (far) relative of a more modern-chic Costume National 21. Unisex.
17th October, 2018

Habit Rouge Dress Code by Guerlain

Yes, how to pay a loyal tribute to a giant of the worldwide perfumery by appointing a separate Habit Rouge with a final contemporary "fancy" soapy/chic (vaguely anisic-lipstick) leather/patchouli's resinous twist. A smooth mélange of almondy/spicy/caramellous/waxy praline, rounded rubbery rose, tonka and Guerlain's vanilla with a less powdery and more soapy-smooth Habit Rouge's wake. Habit Rouge Dress Code starts with a basically old school blast of boisterous spices, crisp bergamot and neroli supported by a touch of rose. This opening is faithful to the original but basically less angular (far less lemon and no lavender imo). It makes It still classic but not straightforwardly cologney. The heart is powerfully spicy and mastered by a dominant accord of clove, huge neroli and nutmeg still loyal to a classic HR Edt's laborious central stage (which is still in this phase powerfully hesperidic, rosey and chaotically spicy in a dusty/earthy/bitter way). All at once at this point Dress Code starts energically to deflect from the baroque rosey/hesperidic potpourri nature of its immane gigantic predecessor by sliding towards a super smooth and "cleaner" dry down of soft woody leather and cosmetical/"pralinic"/tonkinian balsams. The latter (vanilla in particular) are still vaguely in line with the landmark "Guerlinade" (tonka, spicy/almondy/aromatic frankincense, patchouli and benzoin) but in here more buttery chic, sweet, suedish/waxy and smooth, definitely less powdery (far less classically chypre), typically rooty and decadent. Patchouli is heady but is a rouded modern (slightly minty) caramellous soapy patch, a more typically spicy oriental leathery/pralinic patch wity a fancy/chic vaguely anisic spark (vague conjuration of the Lidge's dry down but still with the rosey/moody/melancholic HR's aristocratic twist). It is as caramel and waxy synth balminess finally (in Dress Code) absorb each (presumptively "nowadays" dirty) earthiness, barber shop aromatic crispiness, powdery "equestrian"" dirty woodiness and spicy opaque dustiness (of the classic Edt) in order to unfold a quite linear silkier sweet flow of elegantly moody and elusive soapiness with waxy/suedish/caramellous accents (but still with an aristocratic touch of honeyed/rosey/incensey patchouly). The final outcome is less gloriously aristocratic and more modernly spicy/oriental (still focused on rose/patchouli but with a far more crowd-captivating versatile soapy/oriental/leathery appeal). In conclusion, I'm aware Dress Code could bè more in line with a silkier cleaner contemporary (more minimalistic) sense of aesthetic. Indeed, despite I'm still "nostalgically" fond of my vintage Edt piece of decadent chypre aristocracy I know time and taste have drastically chaged and I rarely attend the palace of Versailles while attending more often shallow clubs and dirty urban latrines. Finally I've purchased a bottle of Dress Code, just few years ago such a blasphemy for me. I'm surprised how wonderfully it develops in my skin. Have a try guys, to each their own Habit Rouge.

15th October, 2018

Black Phantom : Memento Mori by By Kilian

By Kilian Black Phantom is a dark dandy of the velvety underground night, vaguely kind of bohemian and bizarre. I'd have sweared some red berries could have included in the mix (and peraphs caramel is melted with berrish honey). The juice is never sultry, there is something conjuring violets, red jams, liqueurs-creams and incenses. I don't detect almonds to bè honest while rum and sugar cane are there subtle and balanced. Along the trip the juice turns out even more sophisticated and soft, intriguing as a gothic castle. Dark chocolate? Mah, I don't get it while I can catch a touch of coffee included in the dark melange. Finally sandalwood jumps up, creamy, sugary and spicy and several Neela Vermeire creations as Bombay Bling or Trayee come vaguely on mind (and also creations as Balestra Diamante Nero woman, the new Givenchy Gentleman Eau de Parfum and Black Xs for women are there ready to come on mind on a certain extent). The smell ( even modern despite its sinister 800's-like aura) lingers on your skin so melancholic and gothic for many hours, as a black cape you are wearing while pacing the alleys of a monumental churchyard of a old medieval city.
14th October, 2018 (last edited: 15th October, 2018)

Love Affair Femme by José Eisenberg

Evanescent light floral water, musky and bright. In a first stage Love affair smells like a sort of watered down Narciso Rodriguez for her. Tobacco, sandalwood and black currant provide along the way a well rounded final wooden touch and more "presence". Citrus, spices and musk unfold a sheer (typically french) sparkling floral sophistication.
14th October, 2018

Coach for Men (new) by Coach

A beautiful suedish freshly cardamomish vetiver from Coach NY. Aromatic, greenish, delicately lemony, vaguely tea-veined (and "orientalist") a la Bvlgari Pour Homme Soir (probably the lemon-cardamom's effect), measured. A modern clean urban fragrance.
09th October, 2018

Ombré Leather by Tom Ford

A sombre, super smooth, mild, post-industrial rubbery leather. A fragrance for rebels and darkly metallic warriors of the inhuman "funky" megalopolis. Cardamom provides a wet-piquant undertone for a while. Uncompromising, smoky, gasolinic and monolithic like a darker Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia. Not my genre but it hits the spot.
PS: dry down is far milder, less "rebel" (less smoky) and more "social" (fancy and glamour), with a subtle ambery/floral wake.
09th October, 2018

Nouveau Monde by Louis Vuitton

A better version of Dueto Parfums City Oud, saffrony/cardamomish oudh (stout, chocolatey, piquant, oily and super tenacious) and ghostly rose. Opening is spicy, cedary, rooty and kind of pencil shavings while along the way a chocolatey resinous rosey saffron takes the stage as the main protagonist. Woods (also a tad of patchouli) are lingering around till the end (dry, somewhat "gasseous" and "salty"). I detect cardamom and a tad of black pepper. A virile juice. Nouveau Monde could last on skin more than seventy hours.
08th October, 2018 (last edited: 09th October, 2018)

Second Skin by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

Anna Zworykina Second Skin proudly embodies a kind of indie super-massive concept of boozy fruity/flori-oriental, a ideal sort of mixture of several Slumberhouse's alchemies (Vikt, Sova, Jeke and Baque jump more than vaguely on mind) but with an its own mature european rosey/soapy/waxy final chyprey undertone a la Maai Bogue or (back in the past) Roccobacco and Youth Dew. Second skin is a warm, intimate, intellectual, assertive perfume, an animalic contemporary experience with an historical massive chypre background a la Zoologist Civet. Les Liquides Imaginaires Bello Rabelo is another syrupy viney juice jumping significantly on mind. Tobacco, immortelle (appointed in a burnt syrupy way a la Hdp 1740 Marquis de Sade), animalic resins and cognac are heady under my vulgar nose. Cognac in particular provides a quite dandy/lofty posh aura of luxurious leather upholstery-bound ambiences. Overall is supported by rooty/leafy elements from the "forest-undergrowth", orangy ylang-ylang and tuberose. The latter is a floral utterly influencing element (almost paired by ylang-ylang) implemented in a quite resinous burnt sugary "form". The juice is well appointed, super-calibrated, "huge", musky and wise, a "cultured" palatin 800's serum for womanizer idealists, ruined kinky noblemen and old parisian antique-dealers.
07th October, 2018 (last edited: 08th October, 2018)

Narciso Eau de Parfum Rouge by Narciso Rodriguez

Cosmetic-lipstick and sugary-poudree take on musky rose/iris and balmy/tonkinian notes. You can feel along the way various stages of musky soapiness (talky-sugary, milky, musky-neutral, balmy-woody and vaguely detergent). I don't catch the "rouge" side of the moon; this is white or "cream". Vetiver provides a touch of dry/airy woody freshness. Glamour-chic and vain mainstream creamy-floral Narciso's fragrance for a superficially "social, pseudo-cultural" metropolitan down town winter night.
01st October, 2018 (last edited: 02nd October, 2018)

Passion by Micallef

Golden and synthetic musky-resinous bomb from Micallef. Lacteous, dusty-sugary, woody and spicy. Passion's dry down is a resinous wake of spicy orange and more, something balmy-laundry, spicy-wet, white musky, candied and floral-chic, an ideal glamour combination of Costume National 21, Villoresi Iperborea, So Oud Nur and a whichever spicy benzoin around. I furthermore detect hints of spicy/incensey floral dustiness a la Amouage Opus III or several Memo. Heavy golden aristocratically "laced" Rinascimental bottle.
27th September, 2018 (last edited: 29th September, 2018)

Mon Paris Couture by Yves Saint Laurent

Raspberries, citrus, peony, lychee and grapefruit provide a sort of general intense tartness (conjuring me vaguely scents a la Gucci Flora, Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau Fresh and partially J'adore) supported by an obsessive and relentless musky floral influence, partially soothed along the way by ambroxan and a tad of woody vanilla. I suppose dry spices are included in the Mon Paris Couture's mix. Another scent coming on mind is vaguely l'Erbolario Magnolia for its floral tartness just partially soothed down at the end of the journey. Intensely feminine and super floral. Lot of synth musk, tart fruits and ambroxan. The formula is neither original nor exciting under my profane nose.
26th September, 2018

Musk Eau de Toilette by Alyssa Ashley

A soft floral fragrance which remains one of the white musk-references par excellence. Alyssa Ashley Musk is all about floral delicate white musk, powdered down by iris, violet "dust" and woods. Opening is kind of classically chypre with earthy, piquant, woodsy and leafy accents vaguely conjuring (just for a while) diverse types of perfumes (in their top stages) as Morris Gocce di Napoleons and (on a certain extent) La Perla. Gradually the juice evolves towards a more typical "status" of delicate and dreamy white musk a la Jovan or The body shop White Musk. Faint longevity on my skin.
26th September, 2018

Gucci Bloom Nettare di Fiori by Gucci

Creamy patchouli, balmy rose/jasmine and aristocratic osmanthus (Provencal and rare) for this floral semi-gourmand from Gucci (finally rosey/creamy and whitely musky) with a kind of victorian nostalgic floral vibe. Delicate and romantic as in a Doris Lessing's romance.
23rd September, 2018

L'Interdit (new) by Givenchy

L'Interdit new, a "new age" loyal revisitation of a left back glorious Givenchy's classic (variously "re-introduced by Givenchy), is a radiant soapy-chic accord of white flowers, fruits (peach, orange blossom), musk and balmy/eliotropic notes, something like a classic Ysatis (a more opulent giant) combined with a whichever "easier" contemporary Elie Saab Le Parfum and Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere (and on a lesser extent Lancome Poeme) which come vaguely on mind for their sensual/chic floral radiancy. The new version reduces aldehydes and spicy/earthy complexity while enhancing synth muskiness, balmy sweetness and light florals. I detect indeed peaches combined with rose, ambery tonka, musk and yes, kind of "aqueous" flowers as peony or osmanthus providing a veritable chic musky twist. The drydown effectively adds musky undertones with an ambery resinous kind of "shampooing" soapy aura. I get moderate sillage and good projection for the carefree kind of bright contemporary woman wearing this classic remake. I even detect that typical kind of "radiant" cool/anisic synth musky undertone of modern chic perfumes. The base is not that kind of disappointment, It is just more musky, rosey, "white" and clean, less articulated, mossy, earthy, green and spicy than the vintage version. Dry down is kind of linear, finally darker (plums, patchouli, tuberose??), yumier, in line with a part of the modern more "massive" musky-floral perfumery and a vague reminiscence of golden left over floral/tonkinian/resinous/vanillic/musky dry downs a la Cacharel LouLou. A good bright (more "classic in style") alternative to the various "new style" Eliee Saab Le Parfum, Narciso Rodriguez for her or the Alien's variations.

22nd September, 2018 (last edited: 23rd September, 2018)

R'osa by Acqua di Portofino

Acqua di Portofino R'osa is a refined powdery/musky accord of heliotropic rose/jasmine and fruity white musk. Tropical fruits and bergamot provide initially an aura which is all at once classic and exotic, while musk unfolds a sort of darker woodsy mossy neutraly. Opening is definitely wet, peppery, sparkling and hesperidic, a complex aristocratic blast and the most conservative (though vaguely fruity exotic) part of the whole olfactory appointment. The woman wearing R'osa is indeed extremely chic, vaguely snooty, slightly conservative and "high class" in her white linen-wide white trousers, the Hermes foulard, the 70's Ysl sun glasses and the wide brimmed hat. A vanillic core soon emerges with its charge of ambery/poudree brightness and a soapy sense of arcane rosey cleanliness. Sambac jasmine is the main floral presence so soapy and candid while rose emerges gradually in all its gorgeous musky neutrality. The general aura is talky and floral (with a spicy-musky, neutral and extremely chic secret background) with a tad of lofty exoticism conjuring cruise ships, gran galà and unforgetable happy memories.
03rd September, 2018 (last edited: 04th September, 2018)