Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2298

Azurée by Estée Lauder

Another masterwork from Estée Lauder, one of my favorite glorious perfume-houses. Azuree is a bold floral/aldehydic/musky leather-patchouli prominent (green) accord with an herbal-bitter dry foundation and a sort of waxy (yes, like aromatic burning candles, a la Clinique Aromatics Elixir) soul. The Aramis classic's feminine counterpart (on the side of a more "unisex" Cabochard), finally brighter (muskier) and equally sophisticated (with a retro aldehydic/hesperidic mossy classically chypre architecture). I agree on that, if compared with White Linen, Pleasure or Alliage, Azuree is the most assertively complex and hard to wear of all. The initial aldehydic assault is heartbreaking and more than vagualy "stuffy", with a quickly "rising up" angular/crisp bergamot-patchouli's connection, a "burning candles waxy vibe", a green/herbal angular presence of forest resins/dry woods/musks and a prominent victorian pungent jasmine. Amazing opening under my "neo-victorian" nose with the vivid myth of Windsor Castle's aristocratic ceremonies. Patchouli is by soon bold and kind of "Royal" a la Floris while jasmine is sort of "acid" and spicy (likewise in Aromatics Elixir I vividly notice an old-school deliberately "retro/grandma" kind of mystic/incensey/waxy background). Overall the floral presence follows this "massively retro" glorious decadent style and the aldehydes/bergamot/ylang-ylang's co-work enhances this dominant "fat" and exotic/spicy effect, ideally in the middle between Aramis Classic, Mitsouko, Aromatics Elixir and JHL. A musky ylang-ylang is a key element with its charge of subtle sophisticated "cultured" (Grand Madame's) bold exoticism. I have to say that anyway Azuree exudes a basically fresh and bright leather-vibe (despite its spicy/earthy/floral/aldehydic complexity). The leathery presence (finally refined and surprisingly smooth) jumps up gradually bright and light (and going on along the journey more and more markedly as for Aramis classic, just more florally, graciously and subtle), even in here supported by oakmoss, structural patchouli, musk, a tad of frankincense's austerity and a finally warmer/spicier ambergris-presence. The overall effect is still musky/green, classically "chyprey", dusty and dry (un-sweet, woody). Another glorious pillar of old-style classicism in the same league as Cabochard, Aramis and further giants from a disappeared "manneristic" era. Projection is more than good on my skin, longevity is in the average.
13th July, 2017

gs02 by Biehl Parfumkunstwerke

Modern moonshiny new-age perfumery by Geza Schoen (a new great perfumer's vision of modern masculinity), the enigma of ghostly medicinal leather/amber, a dive in the olfactory minimalistic urban abstraction. Tokyo is there with its extreme metropolitan appalling robotic sense of loneliness. I agree with several of the previous reviewers since GS02 is a quite modern (yes kind of aseptic, robotic, opaque, aldehydic, electronic) piece of "clean-chic" animalic-green fragrance. This juice seems combining a sort of Andrea Maack's kind of hyperbaric post-modern molecular/aldehydic vibe with hints of the Comme des Garcons-like plastic-cardamomish futuristic "fluidity" and a tad of Ulrich Lang's (Nightscape-like) liquid immobile (hesperidic-benzoininc-musky) suedish chic chord. A well blended accord of synth liquid suede, green balsamic/anisic elements (angelica, absinthe), orange, aldehydes, floral/hesperidic aromachemicals and animalic patterns in order to appoint a minimalistic (kind of perfectly purified and clean) piece of metropolitan dark nuance (yes vaguely medicinal, electric, hyperbaric, fluidy). Leather, woods, amber and castoreum provide the intensely suedish/woody (melancholic) and sharply floral (it seems to detect violet leaves and geranium) main vibe which is enriched by a sort of rhubarb-like fizzy/boozy cocktail-twist (tart and vaguely bitter) and by a chic cosmetic creamy effect. Hints of minimal soothing musky vanilla and floral patterns close the abstract ring. Animalic notes and musky leather master the super smooth (and liquid) dry down. I get a tad of (Lang Cuiron/L'Erbolario Corteccia-like) smooth suedish/woodsy accord as absolute protagonist. The combination of soft leather, spice and tobacco conjures me vaguely the Bruce Willis Personal Edition's main accord (in a less virile but more chic and futuristic way). A juice which could be perfect for a night-time dinner in a japanese restaurant on the top of a skyscraper while overlooking the Tokyo's suburbia-panorama or for a Berliner electronic obscure underground party. A bizarre aroma for lovers of super glamour-chic minimalist enigmatic juices a la Costume National Scent, Ulrich Lang Nightscape or Andrea Maack Dark.
09th July, 2017 (last edited: 10th July, 2017)

Black Opium Floral Shock by Yves Saint Laurent

Unlike the original-Black Opium-formula's cloying mess this sunnier version is more wearable and light. A lightly candied fruity-floral synth accord with a dominant warm fruity gardenia, hints of musky amber and a tad of dark-metallic toasted balancing "assertiveness". Dry down is a sort of floral-vanillic amber with hints of plumminess, florals (orchid, gardenia, peony, rose??) and a swift of sultry muskiness. I get lot of similarities with orchid/gardenia-dominant creations a la Flowerbomb Black Sparkle or Tom Ford Black Orchid and Black Orchid Voile de Fleur. Nothing really interesting, pass by.
03rd July, 2017 (last edited: 04th July, 2017)
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Clandestine by Guy Laroche

Clandestine is an iconic piece of fragrance from the venerable french house of Guy Laroche. I approach this creation with huge respect and connected struggling memories about times in which my mum was a dynamic "cultural events-planner/organizer" women full of charme, measure and charisma. She used to organize cultural meetings and gala events in aristocratic locations and amazing bourgeois villes (rich of golden frames-pictures, valuable chandeliers, tapestries and silverwares). The general ambiences were filled by the aroma of super chic perfumes (exaling from "appalling" fur-covered and jeweled 70 years old heavily dressed up matrons) as the soapy floral Clandestine, a light charming fruity/floral/organic chypre in the middle of the milky way running from Caron Bellodgia to Paco Rabanne La Nuit, Rochas Femme, Lanvin Arpege and 1000 Patou. The general classic structure of this "creature" is soapy-musky, benzoinic and fruity-floral. I detect in the air a severely "military/ortodox" classicism a la Caron or Patou. An image of bold elegant charming woman on her 50's jumps ideally on mind with dazzling gleam. I get initially a particularly classic chypre "jasminey-aldehydic" twist (a la Caron Fleurs de Rocaille and vaguely N. 5 Chanel) supported by a more modern fruity-floral radiancy a la Jean Patou 1000 for women. Despite its glorious gorgeousness (classic and animalic) Clandestine appears by soon surprisingly wearable and light. In the opening I detect (for a few time) a touch of "sugary" heliotrope (with its confetto-twist) a la Farnesiana, L'Heure Bleue, Habanita or Tocade (supported by dusty-powdery iris and benzoin) but the effect is fleeting, immediately overwhelmed by opaque rosey soapiness, sharp/leafy florals (carnation), hesperides, soapy ylang-ylang and oakmoss rising from a more "neutral" background. I detect in particular the ylang-ylang's musky-soapy presence which is flanked by tuberose, rose/jasmine and carnation (overall representing the musky backbone of this glorious chypre). Aldehydes, musk, ylang-ylang and hesperides fix a super stiff/old-school soapy-musky structure which is definitely the main olfactory theme, something being furthermore twisted and enriched by a vaguely sugary-plummy-vanillic-tuberosey more "tasty" (benzoinic/fruty/floral), coloured and modern effect. Dry down is all about soapy-musky amber which is nuanced by exotic ylang-ylang, fruity tuberose, classic dry leafy florals and patchouli. Clandestine combines shadowy soapy opacity with a brighter fruity-floral exotic musky spark. I have to underline that the Clandestine's "radiant side" is something still "actual" and wearable. Another pillar of a left back gorgeous classicism which still performs amazingly on the right woman (beautiful, radiant, dynamic, fashinating, cultured and reassuring).
02nd July, 2017 (last edited: 04th July, 2017)

Iris Fauve by Atelier Des Ors

A suedish smooth-waxy-musky iris. The Iris Fauve's opening, like in a flash, conjures me soon powerfully Dior Homme Intense (I get indeed a smooth-silky-suedish darker iris/patchouli-accord plus ambrette, musk, vetiver and woods), just I catch much more subtle complexity, more woody darkness, a deeper spiciness and a tad of more prominent powdered/resinous woodiness (which is always a "risky field"). This is surely a more "affected and intellectual" twist on the "basic infamous formula". I get as well a slightly chocolatey undertone and a liquorous spark conjuring me either vaguely several Valentino Uomo's dominant hallmarks. Iris Fauve smells basically more resinous, more visceral-animalic (with a stout myrrh/cistus-dominant accord) and "mystic" than Dior Homme Intense (whilst DHI is super modern in a glamour/chic way Iris Fauve preserves a tad of more cerebral and vaguely arcane/liturgical dustiness - vaguely a la Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir - made of resins, burnt opoponax and molecular spiciness). I'm able as well to detect a sort of vague tuberose-like candied vibe flanking and enriching this dominant iris-presence. Finally a quite animalic/organic, palatin-noir touch of "burning candles type of" powder envelops our senses in a sort of decadent/palatin glorious lullaby. Whether you find Dior Homme Intense too simplistic (and brightly gourmandish) give a try to this Atelier Des Or's more structured aristocratic alternative.
13th June, 2017 (last edited: 14th June, 2017)

Roses Greedy by Mancera

Tons of blackcurrant (and probably a tad of saffron) for a lascivious, bright, fruity-coconutty, creamy rose (paired by a yummy-salty balmy jasmine). There is a general sophisticated muskiness throughout. Feminine.
04th June, 2017

Aube Rubis by Atelier Des Ors

A stout hard to wear fragrance. Atelier Des Ors Aube Rubis starts like a sort of less leathery "praliney" Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman. This is a scent in which (especially in its opening) the connection of suedish iris, smooth patchouli and acid/salty praline give out the illusion of intensive (kind of juicy-fizzy-bitter-woody) leather while patchouli smells initially smooth, luxurious (kind of ostensibly liquorous and glorious on hesperides) and leathery. The not listed leather (a sort of "ideally fruity-fizzy" Classic Aramis-like leather) is like a synthetic ghost lingering all around throughout while I perceive all ovet that disturbing pencil-shavings effect which is not so distant from the ones we got in Montana Graphite, Balmain Carbone or Gucci Pour Homme I (Aube Rubis could indeed sound as a sort of fruity ideal Gucci Pour Homme I's far relative). Patchouli along the way goes fading, I detect hints of saffron while a disturbing salty-pencil shavings woodiness starts relentlessly emerging. Surely vetiver and praline provide intensive fizzy saltiness while I get as well a sort of vegetal fruity/leafy (almost juicy) intensity provided by a sheer connection of violet, grapefruit and praline. Dry down is quite powerful on pencil-woodiness, simil-leather, kind of ostensibly berrish fruitiness (praline) and edgy violet. Honestly dry down smells somewhat boring, sometimes disturbing and kind of monolithic (in a woody-synthetically fruity way). An obsessive fragrance.

P.S: really, really persistent juice on skin. Actually after many hours of journey the powerful woodiness slightly recedes and the "accomplished" aroma conjures me significantly the old "by a red leather 'jacket' bottle wrapped" Habit Rouge Edp (oudhish/leatherish) formula (just being this Atelier Des Or's fragrance more properly woody - in a "pencil" way- and less deliberately and sweetly vanillic/benzoinic/musky). Montale Audh Musk is another fragrance jumping on mind for several of its hallmarks.
24th May, 2017 (last edited: 25th May, 2017)

Beaver (2016) by Zoologist Perfumes

A super musky take on floral-woodsy resinous leather. Zoologist Beaver (the most recent 2016 "improved" formula) opens quite tart and surely fizzy. Opening is indeed quite floral, pungent (redolent) and apparently leafy-vegetal in a sort of "outdoorish, Dior J'adore-like" botanic explosion of blossoms, leaves, humid musks, grass, arid damp woodiness and " dawn's jade". I have to say that by soon I get on skin a sort of dissonant fecal note from the background (a sort of Czeck&Speak Cuba's simil vibe) tending to quickly disappear (or better to melt its substance in the body of the vegetal valzer). Vanilla starts rising as well from the basenotes but it hardly soothen the general floral-vegetal pungency in this phase. It seems to detect lilac, peony and may be magnolia in this dry phase but honestly I'm not quite able to discern the specific floral synth patterns. I get also woody (cedary) dustiness combined with a sort of plastic-medicinal-aldehydic-"electric" Andrea Maack-like vibe. Probably synth leather and hints of galbanum produce this kind of plastic damp vegetal vibe a la Testa Maura Carticasi. The aroma is still powerfully floral, mossy, woodsy resinous (mastic/fir resins) and sticky and the animalics enhance surely this redolent floral-resinous twist. The juice does not evolve utterly on skin, going on obsessively floral, sticky and vaguely dirty. Civet afford a sort of "stale/putrid flowerpot water-like vibe" while castoreum enhances the dominant stout leather effect on skin. I get also hints of earthiness and rootiness in this phase and till the end. Dry down is seriously leathery. An erotic piece of fragrance, something not for the faint of heart. Not my favorite from this great canadian line but surely a must try for the lovers of this powerfully floral-resinous-leathery-musky accords.
16th May, 2017

Tobacco by Franck Boclet

A fruity synth sweet tobacco powerful on cloves, dry fruits (plums) and vanilla. Quite cozy and warm. Ginger provides freshness in the opening before that a cozy seasoned tobacco starts mastering the scene. Dry down is all about seasoned tobacco and benzoin dry fruits.
14th May, 2017

Dark Rebel by John Varvatos

John Varvados Dark Rebel opens liquorous and intoxicatingly humid (but at same time musky, mineral and suedish a la Nasomatto Pardon), evolves in to a darkly woody common way (in line with a whichever mainstream Armani Eau de Nuit) and settles finally down in to a powerfully peppery-woody mode on my skin in order to further evolve towards an ideal peppery/woody/leathery/musky/"ambroxy" mix of Zolty A Bientot, Bruce Willis Personal Edition, Nasomatto Pardon and Bentley for Man Intense. Leather is surely notable along dry down (after the liquor's fading) together with ambery tobacco and pepper. Nothing bad but surely nothing new under the sun.
11th May, 2017

Quatre by Boucheron

A tart citric-floral mainstream boredom.
07th May, 2017

Cuir Sacré by Atelier Des Ors

Cuir Sacre' represents my first satisfactory approach with Atelier Des Ors. A quite luxurious and lavish piece of fragrance for holy events and ceremonies at Court, an "important fragrance" for classy locations and sumptuous ambiences (baroquely equipped and regal). An idea of high inlaid ceilings, chandeliers, bas-reliefs, draperies, golden massive frames and mystery jumps more than vaguely on mind. The note of leather is initially almost un-catchable in the middle of an almost liquorous/resinous aromatic wet burst. There is a clear spicy presence combined with aromatic elements straight from the forests. Spices provide a luxurious/boozy-like approach which is piquant, incensey and woodsy. Gradually leather emerges more markedly in terms of "silky/velvety single malt's vibe" draining your feelings down an ideal manneristic ambience of debauchery and indolent decadence. The combination of resins and balsams conjures me (in glorious intensity) the one I've previously enjoyed in Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia, an absolute favorite of mine. This is not a precious leather-wears leather (a la Gianfranco Ferre for man) or a soapy/barber-shop chypre classic leather a la Knize Ten or Derby, this is basically a resinous "palatin" spicy-leather with elements of aristocracy, greenness and etiquette (and at same time elements of "single-malt" booziness and exoticism), something (for different reasons) more towards scents a la Frapin Speakeasy, Clive Christian C for men, La Parfumerie Moderne Cuir X or Hermes Equipage. Cypriol provides a green kind of oily soft "mustiness" delicately perfumed (rounded), quite balanced and never excessive in musky intensity. Dry down is a pleasant silky-resinous leather with a woody-cedary background and a fluidy-incensey freshly aromatic aura. Cuir Sacre' is not surely the most structured fragrance I've tested on skin but is certainly a leather-experience I recommend for the lovers of this theme's variation.
06th May, 2017 (last edited: 07th May, 2017)

One Man Show Oud Edition by Jacques Bogart

One of the best synth oudhs out there, yes woody, aromatic, elegant, modern, bold, fresh, musky and charismatic a la Arabian Oud Gentleman Secret or a la freshly aromatic takes on the theme by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi (Amber Jewels or Abdul Samad Blend jump on mind). Over a freshly hesperidic opening (mastered by bergamot, earthy patchouli and super virile and elegant geranium) the juice settles down in to a freshly musky and softly leathery way which is quite classy, vaguely laundry and surely exotic (Acampora Musc jump vaguely on mind with its freshly musky bold, vaguely barber-shop, aura).
04th May, 2017 (last edited: 05th May, 2017)
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Bentley Infinite Intense by Bentley

A Virginia Woolf's ideal "To the lighthouse's fragrance". Meditative, silent, nostalgic. At the beginning it seems to deal with the umpteenth Mont Blanc Emblem's clone but fastly along the way Infinite Intense activates a sort of more opaque and mysterious vibe really hard to be described, ozonic and semi-oriental at same time. Over the first sharply tart blast the juice turns soon out floral and silky, quite warm and velvety, something (salty-suedish) really melancholic (ambery-suedish violet?) as a winter afternoon spent admiring the oceanic waves from the lighthouse's hill. There is an aereal salty/suedish freshness combined with an opaque darker warmth which is musky-benzoinic, spicy-ambery (an almost yummy/edible violet-centered blanket) and silky-suedish, overall with a violet's general musky vibe. Violet is not properly damp or angular but prevalently musky and soapy. Dry down is quite romantic and surely virile and "confident". Really not bad.
02nd May, 2017

Sandalwood by Taylor of Old Bond Street

Super classic and common (concoctions from Floris, Penhaligon's or Santa Maria Novella jump more than vaguely on mind). Luxury Sandalwood Cologne is a spicy hesperidic glorious "old-british in tradition" (musky-powdery) sandalwood of the Empire, something in the middle between Guerlain Habit Rouge, Santa Maria Novella Vetiver, Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet, Sandalwood Floris and Aramis JHL. Sandalwood's musky powder is supreme, just supported by a fresh vetiver-lavender's accord, labdanum, citrus, a classic rose-geranium old school chord and spices. I agree with rbaker about the Tam Dao's sort of "feeling" but quite disagree about duration since this juice on my skin is like a meteor. A pity for a quite evanescent duration on skin.
01st May, 2017

Le Gemme : Gyan by Bulgari

A dark resinous masculine fragrance of indescribable beauty. Bvlgari Gyan (from Le Gemme new precious line) is the veritable essence of metropolitan "black" velvety luxuriousness. The subtle fresh cardamomish fruity/floral spiciness, combined with a more traditional patch-centered chypre musky accord, provides a quite classic "under-twist" (a glorious sophisticated-classic background in part a la Aramis JHL, Estee Lauder Youth Dew, Cartier Panthere, Armani Onde Mystere, Gianni Versace, Fendi by Fendi or classics Van Cleef&Arpels) in the body of an extraordinary modern glistening light oriental. The floral presence is soapy-spicy a la Dior Addict but far more dark, humid, piquant and precious. Super lush and glamour, perfect for a gala night in the top down town lounge club. A velvety spicy-floral indonesian patchouli is the main protagonist of this moonlight-dream. One of the most sophisticated perfumes ever tested on skin. A modern masterwork for Bvlgari straight from the Jacques Cavallier's olfactory wisdom.
27th April, 2017 (last edited: 06th June, 2017)

Hummingbird by Zoologist Perfumes

No more words to fully express my genuine appreciation for this canadian house. This semi-oriental "flori-fragrance" is really spectacular guys (especially after many hours, in its long mysterious dry down). Another artist or indipendent perfumer cooperating with the Zoologist's inspired Art Director (and brand-owner) Victor Wong in order to develop the perfume-house's aesthetic message. Shelley Waddington (Zoologist Civet as well) is the perfumer behind the variegate line En Voyage Perfumes which is created, bottled and packaged at Shelley Waddington’s "workshop". This artist transfers temporarily at the Zoologist's "labos" all her experience and specific knowledge about the classic floral-chypre's universe of the glorious past. Hummingbird is another ostensibly vegetal (fruity-floral-botanic) creation of the line and it sounds by soon as a refined fruity-floral work of green-honeyed balance. Rosey abstraction, honey, pollen, leafy humid silvan greenness, nectarinic fruitiness, medicinal soapiness and powdered muskiness wave constantly in the air. I just can say this is a fragrance to die for, a sort of honeyed-green synthetic multinuanced masterpiece. Hyper refinened as an ideally new generation florals-inspired green Chanel N. 19. A green atmosphere represents the ostensibly vegetal background of this powerfully floral olfactory orchestra. Honey (a rosey waxy/aldehydic neo-victorian resinous honey more than vaguely conjuring the great Ysl Kouros as ideally encoutering Mademoisele Coco in to a minty/starry patchouli-veined embrace) is the second element of this honeyed-green "backstage", a sort of waxy-plummy and evidently pears-smelling vibe which is the "dandy" core of this immensely beautiful evocative (arcane memories of a disappeared childhood) juice. Hummingbird is a lofty blend of several of the most transparent and ethereal florals in nature like lilac, peony, mimosa, rose, violet, muguet, honeysuckle and tulip, overall rooted on a sort of honeyed-green "basement" enriched by rooty, spicy, earthy, woody and musky accents. Sandalwood provides a sort of musky-salty honeyed take of intense refinement (soapy, soapy, soapy) while ylang-ylang (joined to medicinal soapiness and misty ambery-milky-honeyed powder) imprints a wave of translucent exoticism straight from the recesses of the misty childhood. I detect in the air a sort of super-modern synth "kind of aldehydic-lacteous-damp", abstract and I'd say "hyperbaric/translucent/suspended in the air/diaphanous" background a la Andrea Maack's Craft or Silk. The illusion about nectars and floral pollens is intense. It seems to detect as well something kind of dry-woody (hay) or "cyber xerox-toner-like" (a la Cdg Odeur 71) as well. An amazing "chiaroscuro" of vaguely medicinal, naphthalenic, earthy, plastic and soapy-cosmetical tones enriches the general harmony. The juice settles finally down on a velvety milky-ambery-musky basic accord (exuding rosey-honeyed-soapy accents in typical english style) nuanced by typically chypre (old-school in perception) honeyed-animalistic-mossy accents. The final outcome is extremely opulent and really hard to describe (lacteous, "nectarinic", vaguely leathery, aromatic, resinous, medicinal, ambery, peppery, liquorous, honeyed, fruity, unique), something re-interpreting in a modern and genial key a conglomeration of classic themes ("earthy/vegetal/boise", "honeyed-chypre/soapy/rosey/victorian" and more modernly dry-floral - vaguely cyber/abstract at the very end). Unisex (not strictly feminine, especially along dry down) imo. Excellent.
22nd April, 2017 (last edited: 24th April, 2017)

Muschio / Moss by L'Erbolario

While I don't crave for Muschio Bianco (nice but too sweet and "bath-foam kind") I appreciate far more this deeper, soapier and darker take on the forest-theme from L'Erbolario. I quite enjoy this juice on skin, it is so soapy, mossy, woody and mysterious to die for. I detect oakmoss, vetiver, woods, bark and dry leaves. Impenetrable smell from the deep forest (but with gleams of dry/aromatic/balmy radiancy) finally leaning towards a classic-chypre main (vaguely barber-shop) theme. Yes, it's among the oldies at L'Erbolario and is surely a keeper. Moss settles down in to a mossy-earthy aroma tempered by ambery/woody powdery facets.
17th April, 2017

Felci / Fern by L'Erbolario

Lot of synth lavender and artemisia "performed" in a soapy-intoxicating way. Felci by L'Erbolario is like a sort of Ted Lapidus Black Soul's inexpensive twin, so close to Bogart Silver Scent (and to a vast array of gassy/aromatic and talky/soapy/ambery new generation "deodorants") as well. Don't be fooled by its name, Felci (fern), since this semi-oriental slightly tonkinian-benzoinic italian concoction smells surely slightly herbal-aromatic but in to a different "soapier" way if compared with a typically dry fern's more realistic aroma a la Penhaligon's English Fern (which is authentically herbal-aromatic and kind of almost rooty-medicinal). You will basically try in this case (Felci) a sort of woody-ambery and soapy-herbal intoxicating aroma "vaguely" waving (intoxicatingly) in the air a la Paco Rabanne One Million or Kouros Silver Scent. Nothing new under the sun.
16th April, 2017

Bat by Zoologist Perfumes

Woahhhhh, God, let me exaggerating with the adjectives,... whatta genial earthy-acid "magically dissonant" (salty-sweet/tart/mellow) serum for "human-bats" of the metropolitan sultry "down town night" (southern tropical "seaside summer nights" jump on mind as well)!!!! I'm realizing to be "on a rave" for this impressive new canadian creative house (a "creative workshop" with a seriously original - "animalic/actually no animal"- concept behind) managing to create the most illusorially animalic fragrances (Bat, Civet, Beaver) actually with no trace of real animal notes. Bat is one of the "naughtiest" scents I've ever tested on skin, pure hardcore "porno-oriented" olfactory eroticism, something at same time arcane (wild, caves' mustiness eliciting) and super modern (glamour). Bat is definitely one the most original "salty-fiery" hair-chested leathers I've had the pleasure to test. Pure genius. Unique, a one of a kind blend of leather, resins, fizzy mineral notes and captivating tropical fruits. An hypnotic fragrance based on a game of unexpected contrasts. In the same league (at least conceptually) as bizarre-irreverent olfactory twists a la Escentric Molecules Kinski, Zoologist Bat possesses an amazing "fizzy-molecular-swarming" salty-mineral (all at once rooty/woody and aromatic) accord of vetiver, salty/woody sandalwood, mineral elements, leafy vegetal patterns, dodgy ozonic patterns, damp earthiness, dry roots and tropical dry (tart-salty "red") or mellow fruits. The main bitter (citric)-sweet acid/salty (humid-camphoraceous) testosteronic accord masters this olfactory masterwork of synth creativity, being however finally counteracted by a sweeter/softer chord of sultry balsams, tropical fruits, visceral resins and sweated musks. The outcome is "arresting" and purely provocative in all its peculiar glory. The camphoraceous presence is "appalling", humid, rocky, mouldy, earthy, vegetal and mossy.
The contrast between rooty/mineral camphor and yummy figgy-tropical resins is simply superb. Vetiver, sandalwood and leather provide an high level of saltiness. Amazing, a sultry dark accord for a "sweated" sinny journey through the most tropical and chaotic rave party ever. Finally a more than vague "smoother" figgy (a la Ferragamo Pour Homme/ Diptyque Philosykos) creamy note (figs, banana, baksams, tonka) pops up on the scene providing a twist of fruity exotic smoothness. Addictive as few scents in this universe with its spark of musky virile fizzy/acid (balsamic) piquancy, Bat makes an "unbuttoned shirt" virile sweated man in a chaotic beach-party ideally jumping on mind. There is this salty-acid mineral rugged presence (a tart fruity grapes/pomegranate-like presence as well) conjuring me incredibly an urban juice which I love, namely the salty (and more than vaguely leathery) Bond N. 9 New York Oud, the juice I know which mostly Bat resembles at. Finally you will enjoy an immensely sexy and provocative metropolitan "clubbing-leather-salty-fragrance" which will manage to lord over all the most straightforward sexy accords of the night clubs' playground. Simply amazing.

P.S: I surely see how "Bat pays tribute to the biological characteristics of the bat—its diet and habitat—as well as the myths and legends surrounding these furry, mysterious creatures of the night". I have to say that anyway this is a surprisingly modern and "urban" leather-juice (at least in my perception) which nails down a new particularly modern concept of "glamour" in to a powerfully exotic, virile and trendy/fashionable way (not properly a caves-conjuring scenario on my mind).
11th April, 2017 (last edited: 13th April, 2017)

Fishbone Man by Fishbone

A warm-spicy classic light elegant fougere. Under my vulgar nose Fishbone for man (especially in the top phase) is simply one of the closest things to vintage Nino Cerruti (which is more floral and structured). An extremely spicy-watery (lot of cinnamon, citrus, aromatics and woodsy cardamomish synth musks) classy take on fluidy-virile lavender (supported by musks, "liquid-peppery" spices, piquant-tasty spices and warm synth ambergris). Spices, florals (geranium as well?) and tart fruits provide a sharp melancholic vibe. The general atmosphere is surely restrained, confident and masculine. I get surely rose, a musky romantic spicy-green rose conjuring me vaguely the (more modern and poetic) rose-rendition in Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noir Pour Homme. I detect that lavender/cardamom/fir resins/conifers-centered familiar accord we pick up back in several old-school fougeres a la Rockford, Henry Cottons, several Penhaligon's or Trussardi Action (I detect several Givenchy Insense's nuances as well). Patchouli utterly darkens the juice providing a bolder-warmer twist. Dry down is warm (with an ostensibly organic warm-salty-man-skin-effect) and decidedly synthetic (synth "confident" ambergris) but still pleasant. Faint duration on my sucking skin.
07th April, 2017

Jungle pour Homme by Kenzo

Iconic pretty exotic musky blend of mellow/tropical fruits, citrus, mild woods, "aromatics", luxuriant spices and balsams. A wild "Amazonian" sweetly musky semi-oriental. I get for a while a vague mohito's initial "fizzy" effect. Vibrant, vivid jump on the "caribbean "jungle's" microcosm. I detect a vague "candied" burnt sugar/ripe fruits-association conjuring me slightly the typical Cacharel Eden's wild-tropical twist. I get as well a vague Feminite du Bois/Fille en Aiguilles's "Lutenesque" spark from the impenetrable forest. Jungle is anyway lighter and more "sultry". Erotic. Excellent for a reggaeton dance in smoky club of L'Havana or for a rave beach summer party of the southern lands. Visceral but decidedly chic/glamour all at once (possessing an urban-chic character ofter opposite to a chaotic "sexy sultriness"). Finally I get a spicy sort of "starry-chic" (almost anisic/minty) candied cool synth undertone. I quite enjoy this kind of visceral juices guys.
05th April, 2017 (last edited: 06th April, 2017)

Blu Mediterraneo Cedro di Taormina by Acqua di Parma

A creamy aromatic breezy beauty with an excellent spicy and freshly (citric) balmy dry down of benzoinic vetiver and perfumed mild woods. Classy a la Must de Cartier Pour Homme in style (though not so "sublime and lofty") with hints of "far lands" exoticism. Tonkinian/cardamomish and airy-(vaguely)anisic. A fragrance for yacht clubs and yuppies. A surprise.
05th April, 2017

FlowerByKenzo Eau de Lumière by Kenzo

An oceanic blast of "purely synthetic" dazzling floral musky soap. Almost edible irresistible super-radiant synth white musk. Bergamot provides structure and a tad of counteracting twist of "tart balance" in the middle of some milky-musky waves. You could appreciate FlowerbyKenzo Eau de Lumiere if you enjoy the (quite similar, just less floral and more soapy-neutral) italian bath foam Nidra Latte. Rose enhances abstract neutral soapiness while jasmine provides radiancy and floral sophistication. "Candy powdery" elements whirl in the foamy air. A super radiant ethereal "easy" potion more the dignified (on the commercial sphere of synth designers) and powerful on "sensual-innocent" musky jasmine. Long dry down is a tad less musky and slightly saltier and more "neutral-citric".
04th April, 2017

Panda (original) by Zoologist Perfumes

Whoahhhhh. What an amazing fragrance is it guys!!!!!! Supremely green fairy bamboo from the "wilderness". Sooo fresh and invigorating. The "wonderponds" fragrance, an inebriating musky-floral-aqueous masterpiece of "vegetal-oriented mental evasion", the dodgy microcosm of woodland creatures as gnomes, elfs, genies, batterflies and the fairies. A jubilation of enchanted streams, hypnotic echoes of drops, silvan untouchable creatures, floating gigantic leaves and quiescent ponds. A peaceful fragrance. Ideally a new generation-Chanel n. 19, Zoologist Panda roots its substance over the core of one of my favorite elements in perfumery (the super chic-languid poetic osmanthus, as supported by watery lillies, oriental blossoms, bamboo, zisu leaves, exotic roots and graceful mimosa), an element (a royal osmanthus) which in this case is vivid, full of vibrant silvan energy in its leafy-vegetal exchanged aura. Flowers are "fluidy", water-drenched and floating on the immobile pond's waters. Osmanthus (and several aqueous languid florals of the enchanted forests) is enclosed in a super peppery-musky "aqueous" silky-fluidy "aura of green tea, zisu, bamboo, citrus, oriental blossoms, musky vetiver and general resinous/suedish silkiness". Green tea is a starry element with its dry-tart citric/green vibe. Woodsy resins, suedish synth elements and exotic (smooth) musk (a powdery vetiver and soapy musk) provide a super smooth aura counteracting the citric/green general "botanic" tartness. The green-floral accord is vaguely medicinal and kind of mystic. The whole balance is fixed over this marvelous game of soft-tart contrasts, overall in the magic round of this general fresh vegetal-oriented poetry. There is something arcane and "childish" (in the sense of childish dreams-conjuring). Atmosphere apart the final outcome is anyway a super classy-chic creation exuding class and fresh sensuality for an indipendent dynamic woman (more than vaguely a la Jul et Mad Terrasse a St Germain). A surprisingly "european in style" north american piece of perfumery, a quite sapient/mature twist on fragrances. One of the best bamboo/tea-based florals I've ever tested on skin along my miserable career and a hugely recommended creation (truly awakening your senses) from the surprising Zoologist's magic workshop. A piece of silvan poetry in perfumery and a real work of art. A winner.
01st April, 2017

Civet by Zoologist Perfumes

I can solemnly assert that Zoologist Civet is a contemporary gem, really, a cult fragrance (by now a modern classic), a pretty gorgeous creation which, while paying tribute to a classic baroque french honeyed-mossy-spicy chypre tradition (civet= Coco Chanel, Guerlain Djedi, Rochas Mystere, Must de Cartier, Estee Lauder Knowing etc), manages at same time to strum the (wilder fruity-spicy) strings of the Indie's
dodgy creative underworld, succeeding in the aim to conjugate (exactly a la House of Matriarch Bohemian Black, a far Civet's cousin) classic and contemporary, baroquely structural and the wild cozy countryside-farm's universe (just to be better intended: ideally the classic Roccobarocco woman or Ungaro Diva interpenetrate their classic substance with the visceral Slumberhouse Sova or Rundholz 03.Apr.1968). A proudly synth note of civet is in here connected to roasted coffee, resinous plummy-figgy spices, tropical flowers and "forest" in order to disclose a bold bloody (salty-plummy) effluvium which is all at once sapiently (with balance) alluring and wildly rural. Opening is quite visceral, a blast of sultry-spicy indescribable emotions (dark, sparkling, multicolored, equatorial, dry-fruity and dirty/sweated). I detect by soon a dark resinous-peppery-woodsy/mossy-liquorous classically chypre background enveloping the brisk sultry elements of the piquant night and overall is supported by a toasted accord of earthy patchouli, burnt dried fruits and roasted coffee. I can pick up dried figs, tropical flowers (kind of orchid, tuberose, ylang-ylang), salty leather, toasted tobacco, liqueur, sugary nuts, impenetrable spices, woods, misty resins and tasty balsams (the culinary-boozy-bloody carnality of this opening "recalls" to me an ideal combination of Les Liquides Imaginaires Belo Rabello and several of the spiciest/more syrupy/honeyed Slumberhouse's creations a la Jeke and Sova). Apart toasted coffee I detect a general (typically Indie in style) burnt-sugar's effect as mastering (resins galore). The core of this juice is represented by this central mysterious connection of toasted coffee and a sort of animalic black (salty-acid) musk (the synth civet's effect). I don't get the civet's typical fecal vibe, while I surely detect (as background and after many hours) an erotic sort of "stale - vaguely acid - pungent sweat of the body recesses-effect" combined with wax and honey (which is typical of vintage animalic chypres). Along the way various balsams seem to go soothing the elements and a muskier-lighter more "polished" chypre (mossy-woody-honeyed) vibe pops up as a stroke of fate. I detect in this phase a vaguely less dark presence of honey, oakmoss, heliotrope and mossy leather. The main effect, despite stable (sapiently orchestrated, alluring, elegant) and proudly classic "in school", is anyway destabilizing, avant-garde and incredibly erotic. Super bold sillage and great longevity on my feral skin. Excellent creation nearby the house of Zoologist.
26th March, 2017

Nightingale by Zoologist Perfumes

Nightingale is my first experience with Zoologist, the magnificent "by flora/fauna-inspired" Indie/naturalistic canadian alchemic niche brand. Their collection is aimed to capture the idiosyncrasies of the animal kingdom, transforming them into scents that are somewhat unusual and original. The main goal is supposed to be the one to connect "by perfumes" the wearer to great delights of the natural world. My first impression testing the juice on skin is immediately kind of wowing me; whatta resinous impact, what a fantastic indolic approach, what a visceral fruity-floral musky assault!! First of all, this is a super spicy-resinous creation (spicy frankincense, oudh, ambergris, fir resins, labdanum etc), as much resinous to conjure me (anyway in to a far more fruity-floral key) scents a la Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia, Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh or several of the most straightforward frankincense-based accords (though in this case frankincense is well calibrated and is just like a brick of a more complex high construction). There is a "nowadays classic" central accord of rose/saffron/oudh but in this case fruity-floral intense elements and rich muskiness provide a new deeper vegetal outcome. The juice expresses a "japanese-in-inspiration" sort spring-time botanic atmosphere (the perfumer Tomoo Inaba is surely inspired by her japanese origin and the "naturalistic past" in deep contact to nature). Nightingale is a fruity-floral chypre (finally honeyed, rosey, waxy, apparently aldehydic, musky) opening with an assault of rosey saffron, plums (japanese plum blossoms) and violet under my profane south-european nose. Violet is temperamental for sure. The rosey vibe is by soon super spicy, creamy and yummy (sort of balmy, almost saffrony-syrupy) and its royal neo-victorian neutral/detergent/botanic/leafy-like vibe is counteracted by a more pungent accord of plums and violet (kind of berrish, juicy and candied). The overall atmosphere is surely musky, hyper musky, silvan and vegetal. A lemony note (on the side of woods) reinforces in the meanwhile the fruity-floral "plummine's intensity" and the general "perfumed botanic intensity" of the opera. The visceral floral syrup (really saffrony-rosey, plummy and resinous), as conjoined to carnal resins and deep musk, provides a quite sensual general effect while patchouli enhances structure and charisma. A fragrance by a great structure, gorgeousness and complexity claiming to capture the Japanese spring's onset with an obsessive dark floral pungency and a general sense of soapy-assertive oriental rapture. Excellent.
25th March, 2017

Quelques Notes d'Amour l'Eau de Toilette by Yves Rocher

Sultry and musky a la Versace Eros Pour Femme, just a tad less fruity, pungent, radiant and musky. While Versace pushes the accelerator over magnolia, freesia, orange blossoms and ozonic molecules Yves Rocher Quelques Notes d'Amour is more properly rosey, light, delicate and balmy-ambery (soapy). Both the creations are "airy", fruity (red fruits from the forest - cassis, raspberry, bilberry etc), salty and exude a sort of sultry-"sweated" synth sensual "sweet-salty" (musky/ambery) presence which is finally warm, pretty feminine and slightly dissonant. A decent easy feminine eau.
23rd March, 2017

Cellini by Fabergé

"In to the fougere's wild". Faberge Cellini for men is a quite refined (but really "strong") freshly aromatic barber-shop classic fougere exuding a fascinating fresh aura a la Aramis Tuscany Man (a lot), Drakkar Noir, Cuba Black men by Cuba Paris or (mostly) Azzaro Pour Homme. I detect this mastering initial soapy-anisic accord of aromatic herbs, fresh lavender and citrus, immediately supported by leather/patchouli (with a quite soapy-suedish leather's effect), by a refined sharp floral core (mostly carnation under my profane nose), overall flowing down towards a mossy-ambery-leathery base (dandy, classy, "tailored", leathery, soapy, aromatic, dry). Anisic lavender, musks, synth ambergris and soapy leather are dominant throughout while the florals are restrained, angular and "accessorial". I detect an undeniable spicy presence (and some misty earthiness) but the juice is mostly an aromatic-soapy (mossy-ambery-leathery) fougere with a radiant spark of gentlemanly dandy class. Supremely masculine. Durable on my bastard skin.
P.S: dry down is darker (vaguely smoky, austere, quite soapy-mossy - but all at once angular - and assertive a la Ysl vintage Rive Gauche).
22nd March, 2017 (last edited: 23rd March, 2017)

Reflection Man by Amouage

One of the most expensive "musky/talky bath-foams" of the market. Not for me. An "highly placed" mix of "market cracks cliche'-formulas". Joop Homme+ Baldessarini Ambre + a whichever musky-herbal-talky "ubiquitous" bath foam + Paco Rabanne One Million + Gaultier Le Male + a bombastic luxurious packaging = Reflection Man. Just a far more expensive, yet slightly more herbal and structured mix of the former juices. Finally Reflection turns out pretty talky, floral-chic and warm. I've read somewhere there is no resemblance with Joop Homme but I detect many points in common with it especially about the first part of the run (angular- herbal/hesperidic- elements, candied heliotrope, spices, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver, ambroxan, tonka, sandalwood etc). Finally the olfactory routes diverge and Reflection Man becomes a musky-talky amalgam significantly distant from the Joop's powerhouse disclosure. A really powerful fragrance. Hints of peppery spices, woody saltiness, synth ambery piquancy, floral patterns and aromatic herbal greenness ransom an otherwise overly boring expensive talky-ambery blend. Save your money guys.

P.S: after many ours I detect several changes, the juice evolves, a "languid" anisic (a la Thierry Mugler's Angel) sort of unisex fruity/floral patchouli comes out and I finally see a pretty chic sort of Chanel Allure's aura (vaguely candied/honeyed/floral-chic/aromatic). I detect in this phase an alluring sambac jasmine supported by neroli, "anisic-starry-candied" sandalwood and patchouli.
19th March, 2017 (last edited: 20th March, 2017)