Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2308

Aspiration by Louis Cardin

Super spicy, I finally pick up powdery saffron in particular. A classic fleeting herbal/aromatic dry opening (vaguely a la Paco Rabanne Xs or D&G Pour Homme) finally reached by soapy/musky/rosey resinous balsams with a powdery/chypre (brightly "laundry-detergent/toilette cleaner" and slightly talky) undertone. Dry down conjures me vaguely scents a la Dueto City Oud (but in a less resinous and synthetic way). In conclusion I detect a sort of harsher "hay/papyrus/pencil shavings-like" final twist. Not properly an olfactory "Aspiration" for me.
21st September, 2017

Missoni Parfum pour Homme by Missoni

Missoni Parfum Pour Homme starts as a revival (in a contemporary key) of scents a la Byblos Uomo original or Versus Pour Homme by Gianni Versace (glorious modern juices sice the moment of their inception) in order to gradually assume an its own darkly musky sporty evolution based on lemony patchouli, aromatic herbs and synth musk. Ginger, green lemon and lavender provide the sporty/fresh darkly-aromatic twist a la Badedas Noir. Some drier/soapier soothing amberish woodiness a la L'Erbolario Corteccia (probably because of the oak-note) emeges gradually but this scent is all about musky/herbal patchouli and green lime. A pleasant dynamic masculine modern fragrance but nothing more.
P.S: the "deep drydown" is eminently woody (kind of pencil shavings in vibe) and along this stage the scent losts almost entirely the interest on me.
19th September, 2017

Emporio Armani Stronger With You by Giorgio Armani

Conjures me a lot (at least conceptually) scents as Azzaro Pour Homme Intense (new) and Boss The Scent Intense (woods, spices, tonka bean, fruity notes, hints of leather and vanilla). Valentino Uomo (less woody but more "chocolatey") is not so distant. A cedary kind of woody (pencil shavings) undertone is unfortunately the silent star. Nutty, woody, sweet, vaguely liquorous/caramellous and strong. Dry down is highly peppery on my skin. Not properly my cup of tea.
15th September, 2017
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Loud Whisper by Louis Cardin

Unfortunately another more than pleasant but un-original LC's creation on my skin.
A sort of "musky/talky bath-foam-like" mix of several "market cracks cliche'-formulas". If you are in to Amouage Reflection Man, Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy Men, Joop Homme Wild, Baldessarini Ambre or in to a whichever musky-talky "all around ubiquitous" bath foam and you even appreciate Paco Rabanne One Million or Gaultier Le Male (also Le Beau Male), well here's Louis Cardin Loud Whisper, the umpteenth member of the infamous clan. Probably the latter is a slightly more balmy/soapy "heavenly" mix of the former juices, finally so light, soapy, delicate and almost oneiric. At the end of the run Loud Whisper turns out pretty soapy/talky, floral-chic and creamy/vanillic. It seems to detect also a whiff of candied heliotrope, spices, jasmine, patchouli, ambroxan, tonka, sandalwood and a few more. Probably I finally detect hints of soft suede (a spark of salty-leathery remote feel) as well and soft woofiness. A captivating juvenile mainstream formula lacking class, structure and elegance imo. Nothing new under the sun guys.
11th September, 2017

Lumination by Louis Cardin

Lumination is a pretty ordinary sporty fragrance from Louis Cardin and another take on aromatic/green/citric (fougere)
saltiness after the pleasant Scentanium (being the latter more oriented towards a sort of minty/metallic woodiness while Lumination is more typically musky/ozonic with a plain sporty twist of final synth "piquant" ambergris). Fresh, clean, ozonic, lemony, metallic, musky. The combination of metallic/ozonic patterns, fresh lavender, hesperidic patchouli and synth (aromachemical) ambery/lemony muskiness conjures me significantly (yet undenied and remarked all their evident peculiarities) scents a la Egoiste Platinum, L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake, Allure Homme Sport or D&G Light Blue. I get some sharp floral notes but this juice is all about ozonics and lemony/aromatic/ambery muskiness. Dry down on skin is darker and more dry/virile with a plain piquant spark. Lumination is definitely a "bright" aromatic/sporty "conventional" juice but is finally nothing but a ramake of previous renowned classics on the same theme (and finally smells somewhat boring and uninspired, my humble rating is barely 5/10).
07th September, 2017 (last edited: 08th September, 2017)

Gabrielle by Chanel

Gabrielle is a delicate brand new Chanel's bouquet with a translucent "neo-Victorian" graciousness. Tuberose is the main element (creamy, soft, orangy, musky) immediately supported by earthy jasmine, sophisticated (soapy-cosmetical) synth ylang-ylang and by a final fairy (but vain and kind of fuzzy) balminess. An initial angular/hesperidic leafiness evolves by soon in to a soft musky-orangy twist of floral and soapy notes. Orange blossoms, ylang-ylang, tuberose, musk, namely a sort of hardly enchanting perfumed "remake". A gracious "baume", slightly dull and with a tad more than mediocre structural magistery. Nothing new under the sun.
02nd September, 2017

Scentanium by Louis Cardin

Interesting first approach with the Louis Cardin's "perfumed" family. Scentanium is a super spicy/salty fresh citrus-based mature aroma rich of charme and freshly-oudish boldness. I suppose a not listed well calibrated touch of musky/spicy oudh could have been included in the blend. The extreme "toiletries like" spiciness conjures me significantly the musky-oudish Arabian Oud Gentleman Secret's exotic radiancy (which I deeply appreciate). The latter shares with (the saltier) Scentanium this sort of spicy-exotic classic twist of "arabic" aromatic virility (conjuring me more than vaguely the image of an utterly distinguished seducing exotic man and ideally capturing the scene of a tall "hypnotic" man in the hall of a luxurious hotel with its broadly projecting wake of "cardamomish/salty" muskiness). I detect markedly an arabic concept of aromatic-exotic masculinity all around but it seems to notice a sort of western yacht club-like sense of aristocratic summery "yuppies-ness" as well. It seems to pick up huge doses of ylang-ylang, citrus, pepper and cardamon on a base of well calibrated oudh, woods and ambery muskiness. Really dreamy, charismatic and "oriental". Supremely masculine with no compromises. I detect hints of ozonics as well, salty patterns (hints of vetiver too?) providing a modern sense of dreamy saltiness (the connection between ozonic saltiness, musky woodiness, peppery spiciness and aromatics conjures me more than vaguely the core of Bottega Verde Nero d'Ambra). A touch of mint enhances this widely sparkling aromatic sense of seductive/daring/exotic/hesperidic freshness all around (a la Egoiste Platinum but with more piquant saltiness) while it seems to detect a touch of florals and secret dry fruits in the mix. Hints of woody-metallic-floral temperament conjure me partially the Montblanc Emblem's woody-salty-aromatic restraint as well. An erotic perfume. An excellent choice for all the lovers of a classic fresh concept of daring virility really sensual, piquant, bold and dry. Surely recommended.
01st September, 2017 (last edited: 02nd September, 2017)

Cool Water Wave by Davidoff

The risk is to die of boredom. This juice is tart as a blade and effective as an Axe-deodorant. Cool Water Wave is a typical straightforward (super peppery) ozonic-marine with a vibrant, tart-metallic and fizzy-spicy temperament. Opening is fresh, powerfully dry and super spicy with a central "ozonic/marine" performance provided by grapefruit, citrus, sweet spices (mostly nutmeg under my profane nose), pepper, ozonics and mineral-"frozen" aroma chemicals. Supremely "ordinary" dynamic-refreshing-salty-synthetic (citronellol, helonial, Iso E Super) accord of fizzy-floral (violet, jasmine??) grapefruit, citrus, pepper, patchouli, marine notes, woodsy musky elements, cedarwood and minty laurel. Sporty, grapefruit-centered, synthetic, fizzy, conventional. Tons of easy-going marine "waters" jump on mind, waving from Paco Rabanne Invictus to Bond I Love New York for Fathers, passing through Nautica Voyage, Azzaro Chrome and Lanvin Pour Homme. We are far from the classic "ambergris-like" (and woody-herbal) original Cool Water's distinguished dry down. The base smells really overly synthetic (and really really pungent/peppery, pungent deodorant like, gasseous and fizzy-tart- vaguely cedary) under my gothic nose of the hills. Frankly boring as a summer camp at lakes with puritan parents.
21st August, 2017 (last edited: 22nd August, 2017)

Live Irrésistible by Givenchy

A nowadays traditional formula (synth resins, peppery saffron, powdery/ambery woods and rose) enriched by "lifely" fruits and plenty of musky (bath foam-like) soapiness. A decent synthetic radiant fruity-floral accord, fizzy and spicy (super spicy), with plenty of tangerine, grapefruit, pineapple, may be apple, patchouli, rose/jasmine (may be hints of osmanthus), musk galaxolide and a sheer "cosmetic" creamy-soapy final vibe. This is a juvenile "carefree" easy-going fragrance for "relentless" young "multicolored" crowds of bacchanalian teenagers. Pink pepper, red berries? I detect a sort of saffrony/rosey/balmy/woody final undertone. Life Irresistible is the type of sparkling fragrace you can surely detect waving powerfully in the air. Patchouli is dominant in the creamier dry down (vaguely a la Dior Addict). Good longevity and bold sillage.
02nd August, 2017 (last edited: 03rd August, 2017)

La Nuit by Paco Rabanne

Certain types of things are like a God's gift, veritable antidotes to collapse of costumes, against an irreversible prolapse of taste and the paralysing boredom, as potions to keep my spirit up. Paco Rabanne La Nuit represents an iconic milestone for a supreme idea of "appalling" animalic/aldehydic/leathery chypreism, the forbidding thin red line ideally conjoining Van Cleef&Arpels First to Gianni Versace, Acampora Sballo to Estee Lauder Knowing, passing through Paloma Picasso, Fleurs de Rocaille, Van Cleef, Paris, Magot, Diva and Roccobarocco. Not a lot more to add over the massive floral/aldehydic/animalic structure. I smell poetry, picking up glistens of wax, peaches, musk, earth, pepper and dry leaves. There is a common "ultra-aristocratic" foundation (provided by aldehydes, civet, hesperides, oakmoss/patchouly, honey, fruity-spicy rose/jasmine and hints of leather) connecting all the former "noble old matron-like" potions, a similar classically chypre archetype of musky/spicy alchemy and lot of mutual memories about disappeared old aunts, massive mink coats, ermine furs, feathered hair, heavy facial makeups and high ceiling-rooms (embellished by massive golden frames pictures, oriental stuffs, bronze-statues and Persian tapestries). La Nuit eau de parfum runs gradually that olfactory metamorphosis waving from a stuffy/aldehydic decadent bewildering amorphous abstraction to a softer hyper sophisticated more "discernible/structured" fruity/floral symphony. Soft sparks of leather fill the air as moths, gleams of viney fruitiness dance as violin-notes in the night. Finally the rosey/musky/spicy/viney/leathery La Nuit's central vibe smells really close to the one we've enjoyed in Azzaro Acteur (which adds more virile restaint and aromatic piquancy to the beautiful olfactory game). Beyond all this manneristic monumental beauty (apparently ephemeral but actually substantial in its cultural "substratum", the bold related characters in fur coats or sideburns and flares, the overseas "exotic" immigrations and the enthusiastic future planning) all that's left is the Black Opium Floral Shock's shock and the horrific plastically anosmic theater of "talent and reality shows" with their indecent allusive exposure and the absurd background of metallic saltiness, stretched t-shirts, sculpted locks of hair and the adumbrative stretchy metrosexual pants. God forgive the inelegant fools.
01st August, 2017 (last edited: 02nd August, 2017)

Azurée by Estée Lauder

Another masterwork from Estée Lauder, one of my favorite glorious perfume-houses. Azuree is a bold floral/aldehydic/musky leather-patchouli prominent (green) accord with an herbal-bitter dry foundation and a sort of waxy (yes, like aromatic burning candles, a la Clinique Aromatics Elixir) soul. The Aramis classic's feminine counterpart (on the side of a more "unisex" Cabochard), finally brighter (muskier) and equally sophisticated (with a retro aldehydic/hesperidic mossy classically chypre architecture). I agree on that, if compared with White Linen, Pleasure or Alliage, Azuree is the most assertively complex and hard to wear of all. The initial aldehydic assault is heartbreaking and more than vagualy "stuffy", with a quickly "rising up" angular/crisp bergamot-patchouli's connection, a "burning candles waxy vibe", a green/herbal angular presence of forest resins/dry woods/musks and a prominent victorian pungent jasmine. Amazing opening under my "neo-victorian" nose with the vivid myth of Windsor Castle's aristocratic ceremonies. Patchouli is by soon bold and kind of "Royal" a la Floris while jasmine is sort of "acid" and spicy (likewise in Aromatics Elixir I vividly notice an old-school deliberately "retro/grandma" kind of mystic/incensey/waxy background). Overall the floral presence follows this "massively retro" glorious decadent style and the aldehydes/bergamot/ylang-ylang's co-work enhances this dominant "fat" and exotic/spicy effect, ideally in the middle between Aramis Classic, Mitsouko, Aromatics Elixir and JHL. A musky ylang-ylang is a key element with its charge of subtle sophisticated "cultured" (Grand Madame's) bold exoticism. I have to say that anyway Azuree exudes a basically fresh and bright leather-vibe (despite its spicy/earthy/floral/aldehydic complexity). The leathery presence (finally refined and surprisingly smooth) jumps up gradually bright and light (and going on along the journey more and more markedly as for Aramis classic, just more florally, graciously and subtle), even in here supported by oakmoss, structural patchouli, musk, a tad of frankincense's austerity and a finally warmer/spicier ambergris-presence. The overall effect is still musky/green, classically "chyprey", dusty and dry (un-sweet, woody). Another glorious pillar of old-style classicism in the same league as Cabochard, Aramis and further giants from a disappeared "manneristic" era. Projection is more than good on my skin, longevity is in the average.
13th July, 2017

gs02 by Biehl Parfumkunstwerke

Modern moonshiny new-age perfumery by Geza Schoen (a new great perfumer's vision of modern masculinity), the enigma of ghostly medicinal leather/amber, a dive in the olfactory minimalistic urban abstraction. Tokyo is there with its extreme metropolitan appalling robotic sense of loneliness. I agree with several of the previous reviewers since GS02 is a quite modern (yes kind of aseptic, robotic, opaque, aldehydic, electronic) piece of "clean-chic" animalic-green fragrance. This juice seems combining a sort of Andrea Maack's kind of hyperbaric post-modern molecular/aldehydic vibe with hints of the Comme des Garcons-like plastic-cardamomish futuristic "fluidity" and a tad of Ulrich Lang's (Nightscape-like) liquid immobile (hesperidic-benzoininc-musky) suedish chic chord. A well blended accord of synth liquid suede, green balsamic/anisic elements (angelica, absinthe), orange, aldehydes, floral/hesperidic aromachemicals and animalic patterns in order to appoint a minimalistic (kind of perfectly purified and clean) piece of metropolitan dark nuance (yes vaguely medicinal, electric, hyperbaric, fluidy). Leather, woods, amber and castoreum provide the intensely suedish/woody (melancholic) and sharply floral (it seems to detect violet leaves and geranium) main vibe which is enriched by a sort of rhubarb-like fizzy/boozy cocktail-twist (tart and vaguely bitter) and by a chic cosmetic creamy effect. Hints of minimal soothing musky vanilla and floral patterns close the abstract ring. Animalic notes and musky leather master the super smooth (and liquid) dry down. I get a tad of (Lang Cuiron/L'Erbolario Corteccia-like) smooth suedish/woodsy accord as absolute protagonist. The combination of soft leather, spice and tobacco conjures me vaguely the Bruce Willis Personal Edition's main accord (in a less virile but more chic and futuristic way). A juice which could be perfect for a night-time dinner in a japanese restaurant on the top of a skyscraper while overlooking the Tokyo's suburbia-panorama or for a Berliner electronic obscure underground party. A bizarre aroma for lovers of super glamour-chic minimalist enigmatic juices a la Costume National Scent, Ulrich Lang Nightscape or Andrea Maack Dark.
09th July, 2017 (last edited: 10th July, 2017)

Black Opium Floral Shock by Yves Saint Laurent

Unlike the original-Black Opium-formula's cloying mess this sunnier version is more wearable and light. A lightly candied fruity-floral synth accord with a dominant warm fruity gardenia, hints of musky amber and a tad of dark-metallic toasted balancing "assertiveness". Dry down is a sort of floral-vanillic amber with hints of plumminess, florals (orchid, gardenia, peony, rose??) and a swift of sultry muskiness. I get lot of similarities with orchid/gardenia-dominant creations a la Flowerbomb Black Sparkle or Tom Ford Black Orchid and Black Orchid Voile de Fleur. Nothing really interesting, pass by.
03rd July, 2017 (last edited: 04th July, 2017)
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Clandestine by Guy Laroche

Clandestine is an iconic piece of fragrance from the venerable french house of Guy Laroche. I approach this creation with huge respect and connected struggling memories about times in which my mum was a dynamic "cultural events-planner/organizer" women full of charme, measure and charisma. She used to organize cultural meetings and gala events in aristocratic locations and amazing bourgeois villes (rich of golden frames-pictures, valuable chandeliers, tapestries and silverwares). The general ambiences were filled by the aroma of super chic perfumes (exaling from "appalling" fur-covered and jeweled 70 years old heavily dressed up matrons) as the soapy floral Clandestine, a light charming fruity/floral/organic chypre in the middle of the milky way running from Caron Bellodgia to Paco Rabanne La Nuit, Rochas Femme, Lanvin Arpege and 1000 Patou. The general classic structure of this "creature" is soapy-musky, benzoinic and fruity-floral. I detect in the air a severely "military/ortodox" classicism a la Caron or Patou. An image of bold elegant charming woman on her 50's jumps ideally on mind with dazzling gleam. I get initially a particularly classic chypre "jasminey-aldehydic" twist (a la Caron Fleurs de Rocaille and vaguely N. 5 Chanel) supported by a more modern fruity-floral radiancy a la Jean Patou 1000 for women. Despite its glorious gorgeousness (classic and animalic) Clandestine appears by soon surprisingly wearable and light. In the opening I detect (for a few time) a touch of "sugary" heliotrope (with its confetto-twist) a la Farnesiana, L'Heure Bleue, Habanita or Tocade (supported by dusty-powdery iris and benzoin) but the effect is fleeting, immediately overwhelmed by opaque rosey soapiness, sharp/leafy florals (carnation), hesperides, soapy ylang-ylang and oakmoss rising from a more "neutral" background. I detect in particular the ylang-ylang's musky-soapy presence which is flanked by tuberose, rose/jasmine and carnation (overall representing the musky backbone of this glorious chypre). Aldehydes, musk, ylang-ylang and hesperides fix a super stiff/old-school soapy-musky structure which is definitely the main olfactory theme, something being furthermore twisted and enriched by a vaguely sugary-plummy-vanillic-tuberosey more "tasty" (benzoinic/fruty/floral), coloured and modern effect. Dry down is all about soapy-musky amber which is nuanced by exotic ylang-ylang, fruity tuberose, classic dry leafy florals and patchouli. Clandestine combines shadowy soapy opacity with a brighter fruity-floral exotic musky spark. I have to underline that the Clandestine's "radiant side" is something still "actual" and wearable. Another pillar of a left back gorgeous classicism which still performs amazingly on the right woman (beautiful, radiant, dynamic, fashinating, cultured and reassuring).
02nd July, 2017 (last edited: 04th July, 2017)

Iris Fauve by Atelier Des Ors

A suedish smooth-waxy-musky iris. The Iris Fauve's opening, like in a flash, conjures me soon powerfully Dior Homme Intense (I get indeed a smooth-silky-suedish darker iris/patchouli-accord plus ambrette, musk, vetiver and woods), just I catch much more subtle complexity, more woody darkness, a deeper spiciness and a tad of more prominent powdered/resinous woodiness (which is always a "risky field"). This is surely a more "affected and intellectual" twist on the "basic infamous formula". I get as well a slightly chocolatey undertone and a liquorous spark conjuring me either vaguely several Valentino Uomo's dominant hallmarks. Iris Fauve smells basically more resinous, more visceral-animalic (with a stout myrrh/cistus-dominant accord) and "mystic" than Dior Homme Intense (whilst DHI is super modern in a glamour/chic way Iris Fauve preserves a tad of more cerebral and vaguely arcane/liturgical dustiness - vaguely a la Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir - made of resins, burnt opoponax and molecular spiciness). I'm able as well to detect a sort of vague tuberose-like candied vibe flanking and enriching this dominant iris-presence. Finally a quite animalic/organic, palatin-noir touch of "burning candles type of" powder envelops our senses in a sort of decadent/palatin glorious lullaby. Whether you find Dior Homme Intense too simplistic (and brightly gourmandish) give a try to this Atelier Des Or's more structured aristocratic alternative.
13th June, 2017 (last edited: 14th June, 2017)

Roses Greedy by Mancera

Tons of blackcurrant (and probably a tad of saffron) for a lascivious, bright, fruity-coconutty, creamy rose (paired by a yummy-salty balmy jasmine). There is a general sophisticated muskiness throughout. Feminine.
04th June, 2017

Aube Rubis by Atelier Des Ors

A stout hard to wear fragrance. Atelier Des Ors Aube Rubis starts like a sort of less leathery "praliney" Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman. This is a scent in which (especially in its opening) the connection of suedish iris, smooth patchouli and acid/salty praline give out the illusion of intensive (kind of juicy-fizzy-bitter-woody) leather while patchouli smells initially smooth, luxurious (kind of ostensibly liquorous and glorious on hesperides) and leathery. The not listed leather (a sort of "ideally fruity-fizzy" Classic Aramis-like leather) is like a synthetic ghost lingering all around throughout while I perceive all ovet that disturbing pencil-shavings effect which is not so distant from the ones we got in Montana Graphite, Balmain Carbone or Gucci Pour Homme I (Aube Rubis could indeed sound as a sort of fruity ideal Gucci Pour Homme I's far relative). Patchouli along the way goes fading, I detect hints of saffron while a disturbing salty-pencil shavings woodiness starts relentlessly emerging. Surely vetiver and praline provide intensive fizzy saltiness while I get as well a sort of vegetal fruity/leafy (almost juicy) intensity provided by a sheer connection of violet, grapefruit and praline. Dry down is quite powerful on pencil-woodiness, simil-leather, kind of ostensibly berrish fruitiness (praline) and edgy violet. Honestly dry down smells somewhat boring, sometimes disturbing and kind of monolithic (in a woody-synthetically fruity way). An obsessive fragrance.

P.S: really, really persistent juice on skin. Actually after many hours of journey the powerful woodiness slightly recedes and the "accomplished" aroma conjures me significantly the old "by a red leather 'jacket' bottle wrapped" Habit Rouge Edp (oudhish/leatherish) formula (just being this Atelier Des Or's fragrance more properly woody - in a "pencil" way- and less deliberately and sweetly vanillic/benzoinic/musky). Montale Audh Musk is another fragrance jumping on mind for several of its hallmarks.
24th May, 2017 (last edited: 25th May, 2017)

Beaver (2016) by Zoologist Perfumes

A super musky take on floral-woodsy resinous leather. Zoologist Beaver (the most recent 2016 "improved" formula) opens quite tart and surely fizzy. Opening is indeed quite floral, pungent (redolent) and apparently leafy-vegetal in a sort of "outdoorish, Dior J'adore-like" botanic explosion of blossoms, leaves, humid musks, grass, arid damp woodiness and " dawn's jade". I have to say that by soon I get on skin a sort of dissonant fecal note from the background (a sort of Czeck&Speak Cuba's simil vibe) tending to quickly disappear (or better to melt its substance in the body of the vegetal valzer). Vanilla starts rising as well from the basenotes but it hardly soothen the general floral-vegetal pungency in this phase. It seems to detect lilac, peony and may be magnolia in this dry phase but honestly I'm not quite able to discern the specific floral synth patterns. I get also woody (cedary) dustiness combined with a sort of plastic-medicinal-aldehydic-"electric" Andrea Maack-like vibe. Probably synth leather and hints of galbanum produce this kind of plastic damp vegetal vibe a la Testa Maura Carticasi. The aroma is still powerfully floral, mossy, woodsy resinous (mastic/fir resins) and sticky and the animalics enhance surely this redolent floral-resinous twist. The juice does not evolve utterly on skin, going on obsessively floral, sticky and vaguely dirty. Civet afford a sort of "stale/putrid flowerpot water-like vibe" while castoreum enhances the dominant stout leather effect on skin. I get also hints of earthiness and rootiness in this phase and till the end. Dry down is seriously leathery. An erotic piece of fragrance, something not for the faint of heart. Not my favorite from this great canadian line but surely a must try for the lovers of this powerfully floral-resinous-leathery-musky accords.
16th May, 2017

Tobacco by Franck Boclet

A fruity synth sweet tobacco powerful on cloves, dry fruits (plums) and vanilla. Quite cozy and warm. Ginger provides freshness in the opening before that a cozy seasoned tobacco starts mastering the scene. Dry down is all about seasoned tobacco and benzoin dry fruits.
14th May, 2017

Dark Rebel by John Varvatos

John Varvados Dark Rebel opens liquorous and intoxicatingly humid (but at same time musky, mineral and suedish a la Nasomatto Pardon), evolves in to a darkly woody common way (in line with a whichever mainstream Armani Eau de Nuit) and settles finally down in to a powerfully peppery-woody mode on my skin in order to further evolve towards an ideal peppery/woody/leathery/musky/"ambroxy" mix of Zolty A Bientot, Bruce Willis Personal Edition, Nasomatto Pardon and Bentley for Man Intense. Leather is surely notable along dry down (after the liquor's fading) together with ambery tobacco and pepper. Nothing bad but surely nothing new under the sun.
11th May, 2017

Quatre by Boucheron

A tart citric-floral mainstream boredom.
07th May, 2017

Cuir Sacré by Atelier Des Ors

Cuir Sacre' represents my first satisfactory approach with Atelier Des Ors. A quite luxurious and lavish piece of fragrance for holy events and ceremonies at Court, an "important fragrance" for classy locations and sumptuous ambiences (baroquely equipped and regal). An idea of high inlaid ceilings, chandeliers, bas-reliefs, draperies, golden massive frames and mystery jumps more than vaguely on mind. The note of leather is initially almost un-catchable in the middle of an almost liquorous/resinous aromatic wet burst. There is a clear spicy presence combined with aromatic elements straight from the forests. Spices provide a luxurious/boozy-like approach which is piquant, incensey and woodsy. Gradually leather emerges more markedly in terms of "silky/velvety single malt's vibe" draining your feelings down an ideal manneristic ambience of debauchery and indolent decadence. The combination of resins and balsams conjures me (in glorious intensity) the one I've previously enjoyed in Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia, an absolute favorite of mine. This is not a precious leather-wears leather (a la Gianfranco Ferre for man) or a soapy/barber-shop chypre classic leather a la Knize Ten or Derby, this is basically a resinous "palatin" spicy-leather with elements of aristocracy, greenness and etiquette (and at same time elements of "single-malt" booziness and exoticism), something (for different reasons) more towards scents a la Frapin Speakeasy, Clive Christian C for men, La Parfumerie Moderne Cuir X or Hermes Equipage. Cypriol provides a green kind of oily soft "mustiness" delicately perfumed (rounded), quite balanced and never excessive in musky intensity. Dry down is a pleasant silky-resinous leather with a woody-cedary background and a fluidy-incensey freshly aromatic aura. Cuir Sacre' is not surely the most structured fragrance I've tested on skin but is certainly a leather-experience I recommend for the lovers of this theme's variation.
06th May, 2017 (last edited: 07th May, 2017)

One Man Show Oud Edition by Jacques Bogart

One of the best synth oudhs out there, yes woody, aromatic, elegant, modern, bold, fresh, musky and charismatic a la Arabian Oud Gentleman Secret or a la freshly aromatic takes on the theme by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi (Amber Jewels or Abdul Samad Blend jump on mind). Over a freshly hesperidic opening (mastered by bergamot, earthy patchouli and super virile and elegant geranium) the juice settles down in to a freshly musky and softly leathery way which is quite classy, vaguely laundry and surely exotic (Acampora Musc jump vaguely on mind with its freshly musky bold, vaguely barber-shop, aura).
04th May, 2017 (last edited: 05th May, 2017)

Bentley Infinite Intense by Bentley

A Virginia Woolf's ideal "To the lighthouse's fragrance". Meditative, silent, nostalgic. At the beginning it seems to deal with the umpteenth Mont Blanc Emblem's clone but fastly along the way Infinite Intense activates a sort of more opaque and mysterious vibe really hard to be described, ozonic and semi-oriental at same time. Over the first sharply tart blast the juice turns soon out floral and silky, quite warm and velvety, something (salty-suedish) really melancholic (ambery-suedish violet?) as a winter afternoon spent admiring the oceanic waves from the lighthouse's hill. There is an aereal salty/suedish freshness combined with an opaque darker warmth which is musky-benzoinic, spicy-ambery (an almost yummy/edible violet-centered blanket) and silky-suedish, overall with a violet's general musky vibe. Violet is not properly damp or angular but prevalently musky and soapy. Dry down is quite romantic and surely virile and "confident". Really not bad.
02nd May, 2017

Sandalwood by Taylor of Old Bond Street

Super classic and common (concoctions from Floris, Penhaligon's or Santa Maria Novella jump more than vaguely on mind). Luxury Sandalwood Cologne is a spicy hesperidic glorious "old-british in tradition" (musky-powdery) sandalwood of the Empire, something in the middle between Guerlain Habit Rouge, Santa Maria Novella Vetiver, Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet, Sandalwood Floris and Aramis JHL. Sandalwood's musky powder is supreme, just supported by a fresh vetiver-lavender's accord, labdanum, citrus, a classic rose-geranium old school chord and spices. I agree with rbaker about the Tam Dao's sort of "feeling" but quite disagree about duration since this juice on my skin is like a meteor. A pity for a quite evanescent duration on skin.
01st May, 2017

Le Gemme : Gyan by Bulgari

A dark resinous masculine fragrance of indescribable beauty. Bvlgari Gyan (from Le Gemme new precious line) is the veritable essence of metropolitan "black" velvety luxuriousness. The subtle fresh cardamomish fruity/floral spiciness, combined with a more traditional patch-centered chypre musky accord, provides a quite classic "under-twist" (a glorious sophisticated-classic background in part a la Aramis JHL, Estee Lauder Youth Dew, Cartier Panthere, Armani Onde Mystere, Gianni Versace, Fendi by Fendi or classics Van Cleef&Arpels) in the body of an extraordinary modern glistening light oriental. The floral presence is soapy-spicy a la Dior Addict but far more dark, humid, piquant and precious. Super lush and glamour, perfect for a gala night in the top down town lounge club. A velvety spicy-floral indonesian patchouli is the main protagonist of this moonlight-dream. One of the most sophisticated perfumes ever tested on skin. A modern masterwork for Bvlgari straight from the Jacques Cavallier's olfactory wisdom.
27th April, 2017 (last edited: 06th June, 2017)

Hummingbird by Zoologist Perfumes

No more words to fully express my genuine appreciation for this canadian house. This semi-oriental "flori-fragrance" is really spectacular guys (especially after many hours, in its long mysterious dry down). Another artist or indipendent perfumer cooperating with the Zoologist's inspired Art Director (and brand-owner) Victor Wong in order to develop the perfume-house's aesthetic message. Shelley Waddington (Zoologist Civet as well) is the perfumer behind the variegate line En Voyage Perfumes which is created, bottled and packaged at Shelley Waddington’s "workshop". This artist transfers temporarily at the Zoologist's "labos" all her experience and specific knowledge about the classic floral-chypre's universe of the glorious past. Hummingbird is another ostensibly vegetal (fruity-floral-botanic) creation of the line and it sounds by soon as a refined fruity-floral work of green-honeyed balance. Rosey abstraction, honey, pollen, leafy humid silvan greenness, nectarinic fruitiness, medicinal soapiness and powdered muskiness wave constantly in the air. I just can say this is a fragrance to die for, a sort of honeyed-green synthetic multinuanced masterpiece. Hyper refinened as an ideally new generation florals-inspired green Chanel N. 19. A green atmosphere represents the ostensibly vegetal background of this powerfully floral olfactory orchestra. Honey (a rosey waxy/aldehydic neo-victorian resinous honey more than vaguely conjuring the great Ysl Kouros as ideally encoutering Mademoisele Coco in to a minty/starry patchouli-veined embrace) is the second element of this honeyed-green "backstage", a sort of waxy-plummy and evidently pears-smelling vibe which is the "dandy" core of this immensely beautiful evocative (arcane memories of a disappeared childhood) juice. Hummingbird is a lofty blend of several of the most transparent and ethereal florals in nature like lilac, peony, mimosa, rose, violet, muguet, honeysuckle and tulip, overall rooted on a sort of honeyed-green "basement" enriched by rooty, spicy, earthy, woody and musky accents. Sandalwood provides a sort of musky-salty honeyed take of intense refinement (soapy, soapy, soapy) while ylang-ylang (joined to medicinal soapiness and misty ambery-milky-honeyed powder) imprints a wave of translucent exoticism straight from the recesses of the misty childhood. I detect in the air a sort of super-modern synth "kind of aldehydic-lacteous-damp", abstract and I'd say "hyperbaric/translucent/suspended in the air/diaphanous" background a la Andrea Maack's Craft or Silk. The illusion about nectars and floral pollens is intense. It seems to detect as well something kind of dry-woody (hay) or "cyber xerox-toner-like" (a la Cdg Odeur 71) as well. An amazing "chiaroscuro" of vaguely medicinal, naphthalenic, earthy, plastic and soapy-cosmetical tones enriches the general harmony. The juice settles finally down on a velvety milky-ambery-musky basic accord (exuding rosey-honeyed-soapy accents in typical english style) nuanced by typically chypre (old-school in perception) honeyed-animalistic-mossy accents. The final outcome is extremely opulent and really hard to describe (lacteous, "nectarinic", vaguely leathery, aromatic, resinous, medicinal, ambery, peppery, liquorous, honeyed, fruity, unique), something re-interpreting in a modern and genial key a conglomeration of classic themes ("earthy/vegetal/boise", "honeyed-chypre/soapy/rosey/victorian" and more modernly dry-floral - vaguely cyber/abstract at the very end). Unisex (not strictly feminine, especially along dry down) imo. Excellent.
22nd April, 2017 (last edited: 24th April, 2017)

Muschio / Moss by L'Erbolario

While I don't crave for Muschio Bianco (nice but too sweet and "bath-foam kind") I appreciate far more this deeper, soapier and darker take on the forest-theme from L'Erbolario. I quite enjoy this juice on skin, it is so soapy, mossy, woody and mysterious to die for. I detect oakmoss, vetiver, woods, bark and dry leaves. Impenetrable smell from the deep forest (but with gleams of dry/aromatic/balmy radiancy) finally leaning towards a classic-chypre main (vaguely barber-shop) theme. Yes, it's among the oldies at L'Erbolario and is surely a keeper. Moss settles down in to a mossy-earthy aroma tempered by ambery/woody powdery facets.
17th April, 2017

Felci / Fern by L'Erbolario

Lot of synth lavender and artemisia "performed" in a soapy-intoxicating way. Felci by L'Erbolario is like a sort of Ted Lapidus Black Soul's inexpensive twin, so close to Bogart Silver Scent (and to a vast array of gassy/aromatic and talky/soapy/ambery new generation "deodorants") as well. Don't be fooled by its name, Felci (fern), since this semi-oriental slightly tonkinian-benzoinic italian concoction smells surely slightly herbal-aromatic but in to a different "soapier" way if compared with a typically dry fern's more realistic aroma a la Penhaligon's English Fern (which is authentically herbal-aromatic and kind of almost rooty-medicinal). You will basically try in this case (Felci) a sort of woody-ambery and soapy-herbal intoxicating aroma "vaguely" waving (intoxicatingly) in the air a la Paco Rabanne One Million or Kouros Silver Scent. Nothing new under the sun.
16th April, 2017

Bat by Zoologist Perfumes

Woahhhhh, God, let me exaggerating with the adjectives,... whatta genial earthy-acid "magically dissonant" (salty-sweet/tart/mellow) serum for "human-bats" of the metropolitan sultry "down town night" (southern tropical "seaside summer nights" jump on mind as well)!!!! I'm realizing to be "on a rave" for this impressive new canadian creative house (a "creative workshop" with a seriously original - "animalic/actually no animal"- concept behind) managing to create the most illusorially animalic fragrances (Bat, Civet, Beaver) actually with no trace of real animal notes. Bat is one of the "naughtiest" scents I've ever tested on skin, pure hardcore "porno-oriented" olfactory eroticism, something at same time arcane (wild, caves' mustiness eliciting) and super modern (glamour). Bat is definitely one the most original "salty-fiery" hair-chested leathers I've had the pleasure to test. Pure genius. Unique, a one of a kind blend of leather, resins, fizzy mineral notes and captivating tropical fruits. An hypnotic fragrance based on a game of unexpected contrasts. In the same league (at least conceptually) as bizarre-irreverent olfactory twists a la Escentric Molecules Kinski, Zoologist Bat possesses an amazing "fizzy-molecular-swarming" salty-mineral (all at once rooty/woody and aromatic) accord of vetiver, salty/woody sandalwood, mineral elements, leafy vegetal patterns, dodgy ozonic patterns, damp earthiness, dry roots and tropical dry (tart-salty "red") or mellow fruits. The main bitter (citric)-sweet acid/salty (humid-camphoraceous) testosteronic accord masters this olfactory masterwork of synth creativity, being however finally counteracted by a sweeter/softer chord of sultry balsams, tropical fruits, visceral resins and sweated musks. The outcome is "arresting" and purely provocative in all its peculiar glory. The camphoraceous presence is "appalling", humid, rocky, mouldy, earthy, vegetal and mossy.
The contrast between rooty/mineral camphor and yummy figgy-tropical resins is simply superb. Vetiver, sandalwood and leather provide an high level of saltiness. Amazing, a sultry dark accord for a "sweated" sinny journey through the most tropical and chaotic rave party ever. Finally a more than vague "smoother" figgy (a la Ferragamo Pour Homme/ Diptyque Philosykos) creamy note (figs, banana, baksams, tonka) pops up on the scene providing a twist of fruity exotic smoothness. Addictive as few scents in this universe with its spark of musky virile fizzy/acid (balsamic) piquancy, Bat makes an "unbuttoned shirt" virile sweated man in a chaotic beach-party ideally jumping on mind. There is this salty-acid mineral rugged presence (a tart fruity grapes/pomegranate-like presence as well) conjuring me incredibly an urban juice which I love, namely the salty (and more than vaguely leathery) Bond N. 9 New York Oud, the juice I know which mostly Bat resembles at. Finally you will enjoy an immensely sexy and provocative metropolitan "clubbing-leather-salty-fragrance" which will manage to lord over all the most straightforward sexy accords of the night clubs' playground. Simply amazing.

P.S: I surely see how "Bat pays tribute to the biological characteristics of the bat—its diet and habitat—as well as the myths and legends surrounding these furry, mysterious creatures of the night". I have to say that anyway this is a surprisingly modern and "urban" leather-juice (at least in my perception) which nails down a new particularly modern concept of "glamour" in to a powerfully exotic, virile and trendy/fashionable way (not properly a caves-conjuring scenario on my mind).
11th April, 2017 (last edited: 13th April, 2017)