Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2404

Replica Soul of the Forest by Martin Margiela

Replica perfectly manages in here to combine a ashy/rubbery kind of spiritual leather aesthetic (with a sort of meditative steaming Buddhist Monastery's atmosphere), with a typically indie North American crude mossiness from the wilderness, a misty bitter herbal botanical alchemic twist and the darker more impenetrable mossy atmosphere from the appalling northern forests. A sort of Ideal combination of Profvmum Arso, Slumberhouse Norne (the soul of the forest), Veejaga Hashish Homme, Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia, Armani Privè Bois d'Encens and Tom Ford Bois Marocain. The dominant smoky vibe is gummy but tending to a sort of impervious rocky aridity. Cistus and patchouli enhances an evident earthiness just vaguely coloured by faint berrish fruity accents. A rubbery, incensey, darkly woodsy, mystic and assertive fragrance.
08th July, 2018

Replica Jazz Club by Martin Margiela

The smooth Replica Jazz Club hardly manages to evoke the licentious american jazz clubs-ambiences because of its kind of yummy too generically linear (un-dirty, un-boozy and seriously un-smokey) woody mellifluence. It is a quite vanillic sweety tobacco's rendition with a touch of Sheridan's and some dry woodiness. Jazz Club is indeed nothing more than a pleasant take on woody vanilla combined with yummy tobacco, neroli (quite present) and rum-cream. I even detect this generic woody (pencil-shavings like) vibe which is nowadays boring and mainstream. For a better alternative on the tasty theme stick to Franck Boclet Tobacco, Xerjoff Join the Club: Kind of Blue or several chep vanille tobaccos out there.
08th July, 2018

Lancetti Homme by Lancetti

Lancetti Lui (Homme) is a refined spicy/green/aromatic fragrance for men, founded on a well calibrated accord of citrus, artemisia, spicy geranium, resins, cedarwood and vetiver. The juice is classic in execution but quite modern and wearable. Aromatic herbs exalt the mediterranean nature of the juice. A minimal addition of soothing vanilla and tulu balsam (well combined with mild spices, resins, lemon and greens) soothens the elements providing a fantastically smooth refined final trail (spicy, citrusy, delicately floral, slightly balmy-resinous and vetiver-laced). Patchouli emerges gradually, well connected to subtle frankincense, vetiver and spices. Classy-virile-restrained-woody (a la Battistoni Marte, just spicier and brighter), fresh and vaguely exotic-resinous (a la Montana Parfum d'Homme). A great fragrance for office-wear but also for a "southern unforgetable spring time mediterranean holiday".
24th June, 2018
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Vanille Noire by Yves Rocher

A well calibrated synth woody vanilla with fruity accents (never overly sultry a la Bottega Verde Vaniglia Nera). Subtle, dry and close to skin.
21st June, 2018

L'Envol by Cartier

A simple, well blended piece of refinement from the venerable house of Cartier. L'Envol is a dry modern honeyed masculine chypre with a neutral, mild (but at same time kind of vaguely salty/incensey), moderately resinous, musky, woody poudree consistency. Clean but shadowy (somewhat in chiaroscuro). Musk (probably dominant) is kind of talky, green, woody, vaguely floral (iris and geranium?), all in one quite sophisticated close to skin concoction. I suppose hints of fresh vetiver and patchouli provide masculine dry balance and aromatic "neutrality" counteracting mild resins and central honey. Guaiac wood as usual smells mild, "perfumed", well rounded. The juice smells finally talky/airy and really subtle in its more complex final musky spark (the more articulated lingering ghostly background).
04th June, 2018

Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens

Tested it back recently. This juice is all about spicy orange blossoms, hesperides and tuberose (a scent which I hardly crave for). Spiciness (mostly dissonant warm cumin and mild piquancy) is evident providing a sort of carnal sultry floral vibe all around. Dry down is drier and floral in a more complex way (kind of soapy and rosey, than with a sophisticated spark of chic floral twist). Sexy.
02nd June, 2018

Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens

Supreme sombre/neutral resinous (almost edible) smoothness, a spicy melange of musky (powdery) iris, labdanum, resins and balminess, a scent initially somewhat humid/earthy/rooty but finally musky and rubbery (galbanum and frankincense) with a spicy leafy/floral undiscernible spark. Iris is dominant (though the floral vibe is more complex), kind of boise, spicy (mostly cloves) "lipstick" and definitely smooth a la V&A Bois d'Iris. Incense and amber provide a quite misty/resinous/powdery/suedish/gummy pop-clubby dark atmosphere. Refined (with its earthy-floral twist) and glamour, definitely avantgarde for the time it was conceived.
01st June, 2018

Zagara by Via Dei Mille

Neroli, bergamot and petitgrain. Simple but effective, the aroma of Sicily, the closiest thing to the iconic Zagara di Sicilia by La Barbera.
31st May, 2018

Mélodie de L'Amour by Parfums Dusita

An indolic - narcotic - musky - vaguely animalic - neo-classic tuberose/jasmine-chord "civilized" by a well calibrated gardenia's support. Supremely floral, musky-dirty, heliotropic and honeyed. I'm somewhat sure that a significant dose of civet is included in the mix. Try to ideally "melt" together the peachy/coconutty tuberose of Bois 1920 Sensual Tuberose and an indolic honeyed jasmine a la Bruno Fazzolari Au Dela', well Dusita Melodie de L'Amour will definitely disclose its main essence. There is for a while more than a tad of the stale (kind of flower pot's "rotten" water like) civet-laced dirty graveyard's water-effect conjuring me partially scents a la Corticchiato's Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin, Dusita Oudh Infini or La Via del Profumo Tawaf plus the support of a "to a tuberose-connected" gardenia a la Onyrico Zephiro. Lily of the valley enhances the general floral intensity along the way. An obsessive sambac jasmine smells slightly dominant (after the initial tuberose's explosion) under my unfaithful nose. Overall the scent is kind of merged in to a sort of intense neo-chypreism a la Bogue Maai (and partially a la Zoologist Civet) and in to a generally classic floral grandeur a la Piguet Fracas. Yes a must try for any tuberose/jasmine-accord's addicted.
23rd May, 2018 (last edited: 24th May, 2018)

Le Sillage Blanc by Parfums Dusita

Well, if you appreciate the great Acampora Sballo Le Sillage Blanc could definitely be a choice of yours. This juice is really really close to the notorious Acampora's one, just being LSB soapier, warmer and simpler on structure (I'd say darker and stronger as well). This juice is damp, musky, earthy, leathery, rosey and neo-classic (a soapy chypre kind of contemporary mossy interpretation). A mossy galbanum's presence is responsible of the general musky dampness, smooth and silvan, perfectly "counterparted" by aromatic herbs, hay-like tobacco, barks and dry leaves. Neroli is a key element (earthy, grassy, humid and woody) as supported by earthy wet patchouli and probably rooty vetiver. I detect the bark-vibe while tobacco and ambrette seed warm the juice up with an intense kind of organic soapy feel. Leather is notable, perfectly supported by rosey soapiness, herbs, roots, earth and muskiness. Yes I perceive a sort of fairy tale like enchanted woody atmosphere conjuring the idea of dark rocky mountains-woods, streams, damp earth, secular trees and massive barks. The scent of the wilderness with a secret classic refinement. Excellent.
16th May, 2018 (last edited: 17th May, 2018)

Narciso Poudrée by Narciso Rodriguez

A yummy/candied (poudree/talky-like) balmy heavenly cloud of musky vanilla and bulgarian rose (with a fresh spacious vetiver-laced floral background), like combining together Narciso Rodriguez for Woman, Dior Addict, Cacharel Loulou, Etro Heliotrope, Amber at Vanille E.Coudray and some Xerjoff Join the Club Collection (Kind of Blue?), overall amalgamated by this landmark NR's synth pop-chic "cosmetical" musk. Jasmine jumps up gradually on the stage. Impossible to resist. Yeeeeesss.
10th May, 2018

La Douceur de Siam by Parfums Dusita

Dusita La Douceur de Siam is one of the best musky rose/violet/ylang-ylang-combos out there. Spicy, soapy, refined, vaguely sultry and extremely floral. If you like scents a la Givenchy Ysatis, Cartier La Panthere or Armani Onde Mystere you will definitely appreciate this carefree and bright floral bouquet. A musky/classy fragrance rich of charme and exoticism, founded on a resinous ambery sandalwood's basis. Ylang-ylang utterly enhances the musky/lipstick/kind of cosmetical widespread refinement finally counteracted by a more realistic and natural earthy/leafy floral vibe. A spacious fragrance with a powerful projection. Spices and ylang-ylang play a central role imo. Along the way rose becomes dominant, gradually more and more musky, spicy and soapy. Extremely sophisticated and feminine accord for a dynamic indipendent kind of woman.
09th May, 2018 (last edited: 10th May, 2018)

Light Blue Italian Zest by Dolce & Gabbana

A pleasant initial blast of soft lemon and undiscernible synth fruits is quickly ruined by the nowadays usual mediocre synth "pencil shavings" cedar (which I tend to be annoyed by). This cedary presence, in a while supported by bright florals and soapy musk, is unfortunately tenacious on my skin. The note of amber (dry ambergris-like) provides a tad virile final twist of restraint counteracting the faint general musky soapiness. Stick better with the original D&G Pour Homme, especially in its old formulations or the new made in France one.
05th May, 2018
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Issara by Parfums Dusita

Parfums Dusita Issara is a surprising tobacco-accord re-introducing the amazing Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Hilde Soliani Bell'Antonio's "dry-tobacco woody theme" although in this case without the toasted coffee's presence and overall basically in to a greener/muskier finally soapier way. The note of tobacco is dominant, mild and seasoned, still spicy, virile, restrained and piquant a la Bell'Antonio (just finally a tad smoother) but more wet, citric and aromatic. All the rest is quite accessorial (despite vetiver, hay, tonka and ambergris play an influencing role) under my grotesque mediterranean nose. Opening is hesperidic, piney, sharply herbal, mossy, woody-liquid (vetiver) and dry-spicy (on a certain extent) a la Terre d'Hermes. In particular hesperides, pepper, cedar and vetiver initially elicit the sharp TdH's vibe though in a less herbal and more brisk-fluidy coniferous way. While musk is like a ghost (sheer in the opening and gradually evanescent along the way) ambergris is finally a key element providing piquancy and restraint. Dry hay is another fundamental pattern imprinting the arid wooden effect (a sort of seasoned mild/woody vibe strictly connected to tobacco). Finally the juice is all about dry woody tobacco and ambergris, just slightly soothed by a minimal touch musk and tonka bean (the latter enhancing the mild almost soapy final wake). An excellent juice for all the lovers of a dry/woody/seasoned idea of tobacco. A comforting virile woody fragrance painting an enchanted "countryside like" botanical and rural sort of impressionistic "Provencal" scenario.
01st May, 2018 (last edited: 26th May, 2018)

Aoud Purple Rose by Montale

Plastic candied/lipstick rosey smell. Anonymous and medicinal, the umpteenth symbol of the Montale's useless "oudish" redundancy.
25th April, 2018

150 Days to Summer by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

150 Days to Summer is basically a super spicy, aromatic and fizzy/gingery accord of grapefruit, hesperides, rose and blackcurrant, finally soothed by tonka and hints of balsams. Rose emerges gradually languid, soapy, barbeshop and citric. Simple in structure this accord is untamed, bitter and kind of agrestic. This smell is like a wild horse hard to tame, a raw unperfect crude natural accord. There is a kind of mentholated vibe throughout (aromatic herbs are actually a significant feature), even cinnamonic, herbal, gingery, vaguely "laundry/neutral" and lemony/orangy. A sparkling juice evoking a sunny day in the middle of the nature.
16th April, 2018

Fleur de Lalita by Parfums Dusita

A quite chic and joyful bouquet. Dusita Fleur de Lalita opens with a blast of soapy spicy/gingery magnolia a la Mark Buxton Devil in Disguise. Magnolia is heady in this phase side by side with rose (definitely musky, neutral, vaguely leafy and super soapy). As joined to jasmine, lily of the valley, rose and tuberose It provides a quite sophisticated (vaguely fizzy, significantly musky and definitely soapy) floral bright accord. A basic classic chord of musk, sandalwood and ylang-ylang exudes a gorgeous classy freshly floral aura (for a grand radiant urban dynamic woman). The general musky soapiness represents the modern side of this "carefree" creation (contemporary but with a classic background - Armani Onde Mystere, Sergio Soldano Proibito etc). Finally rose stands out musky and slightly "stale" on my skin, with its languid "neo-victorian" twist well assembled in a more "current" musky-floral melange. Magnolia is still there with its bold impenetrable (vaguely cold) appeal. A charismatic juice for a self confident woman which loves to stand out in a freshly floral musky way.
PS: finally the intensity of lily of the valley, tuberose and Jasmine comes out spicy and intense (vaguely fruity/berrish) providing a quite pungent sophisticated floral spark in air.
09th April, 2018

Erawan by Parfums Dusita

Dusita Erawan is a subtle blend of elements coming ideally straight "outta" a sprouting up greenish damp countryside's silvan undergrowth. Muskiness, an hay-driven undertone, languid (somewhat balsamic) floral notes and (vaguely lipstick) balminess mingle together in to a quite graceful super-balanced whisper of "Primavera". Hay unfolds a dry/brown woody-cedary feel which is gradually mellowed by vanillic soapiness and floral smooth muskiness. This juice unfolds a sheer sense of cleanliness and an almost "edible" floral muskiness. The smell is delicate while providing a sense of woman-skin moisturized by an idratant/nourishing floral cream. Dry down is pure sospiness like a subtle and discreet sort of Elie Saab Le Parfum. Nothing particularly original but a sophisticated and sensual musky scent for a measured woman.
26th March, 2018

Oudh Infini by Parfums Dusita

My first approach with the Parfums Dusita Maison is consummated directly with its "olfactory frontman" the notorious Oudh Infini. A glorious main accord of "detergent" leafy rose (elusive and perverted), "cosmetical" balsams and musky/resinous civet of unparalleled impact. This fragrance, because of its undeniable furious (almost acid) animalism, is definitely a quite hard to tame sort of wild crazy horse but nevertheless (as for a weird kind of poisonous miracle) it finally manages to express a surprising sort of decadent refinement as the most mannerist baroquely decadent twists in perfumery. Well, one of the most supremely rosey introductions in perfumery and more in general a seriously visceral musky/resinous rose-chypre of the olfactory panorama. Right out of the gate you will be petrified by a draculaesque and medieval pultaceous rose with no frills, with a top hat and a black cloak. In case you appreciate scents a la Perris Montecarlo Rose de Taif, Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh, Acampora Sballo or Paul Emilien L'Esprit Divin well, Oud Infini should be a more "palatine" and carnally aristocratic alternative for the most refined palates. This oudish rosey/woody muskiness conjures me partially the Montale Black Aoud's musky accord but whereas the Montale's one is muskier and "paradoxically" brighter Oudh Infini is darker, dirtier, wilder and more aristocratically structured (It sounds like a further paradox considering the general animalic atmosphere of the juice). A superb oudish soapiness (finally kind of "waxy/lipstick", subtle and sophisticated), smooth musk, creamy sandalwood, spices (possibly saffron and kurkuma), resins and warm civet envelop the Queen rose in a sort of arcane embrace. The oudish presence is kind of smokey, sombre, saturnine, wooden and vaguely rubbery a la By Kilian Pure Oud. I detect a mouldy kind of earthiness as undertone, a sort (at least at the beginning) humid cocktail of wild flowers, orange blossoms, fir resins, hay, roots, earth, camphoraceous muskiness and counteracting arid woodiness, overall conjuring me more the vaguely the more flowery Acampora Sballo's woodsy/damp "chypreism" straight from the humid woods. However, wheres Sballo holds on its bright, fresh, grassy and boise natural (somewhat Victorian) run, Oudh Infini turns soon out nastier and dirtier. Civet (a "flowerpot's kind of dirty stale water-rotten aroma") gradually turns out dirtier, utterly stale and saltier, transforming the juice in to an extraordinary (wonderfully contradictory) blend of warm wild malevolent animalism and royal mannered (somewhat affected) decadence, something classically virile and seriously baroque. Animalism, resinous and culinary spiciness are perfectly balanced and finally soothed by exotic balsams and soapy/waxy resins a la Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia (another fragrance more than vaguely jumping on mind). Dry down is somewhat stale and organic while smelling the juice quite close to skin but still incredibly refined and subtle at distance. A contemporary perfumed rendition of medieval and historical atmospheres this fragrance, though not properly a one of a kind in its genre, is definitely a must try for all the rose-addicted and the perfumistas with a passion for epic poetry, romanticism and gothic ambiences.

22nd March, 2018 (last edited: 23rd March, 2018)

L'Esprit Divin by Paul Emilien

Excellent "rose/saffronish oudh driven" combo based on a classic connection of saffron, dusty mild spices, an earthy musky violet leaves/rose-accord (royal and neo-Victorian a la Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition) and woods a la Dueto Parfums City Oud, Perris Montecarlo Rose de Taif or Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh although this juice is turned out particularly intense by creamy spices, grapefruit, frankincense and by a final warmly virile animalic note (probably an oudish/musky/rosey civet a la Dusita Oud Infini). Since the opening the dominant floral accord smells earthy and leafy for a while on my skin. A messy tornado of further elements (herbal notes, amber, may be myrrh, floral notes and tobacco leaves) enhances the complexity of the olfactory orchestra. The highly resinous/rosey/animalic spiciness (finally more ambery than musky) conjures me decidedly the Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia's regal balmy/soapy Rinascimental exoticism. Spices and tobacco provide structure and solidity. Paul Emilien L'Esprit Divin is one of the rare resinous oudh/rose's structured renditions. An almost tribal and ritual blend of spices and resins which will definitely inebriate your senses.
20th March, 2018 (last edited: 22nd March, 2018)

Shiny Amber by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

Shiny amber is a quite pretty spicy/watery amber-based fragrance introducing itself with a sort of neo-victorian (hesperides, poudree amber and jasmine) "aplomb" which is immediately kind of soapy-hesperidic and vaguely anisic at same time. Resins are counteracted by citrus and light/airy watery spices, overall in a quite light and versatile sort of fluidy combination. The citric presence smells classic, structured and more than vaguely "cologney" (conjuring in part a sort of "Guerlain Aqua Allegoria's royal atmosphere"). Ginger provides the initial kind of airy/aromatic/minty/anisic twist. I detect cardamom enhancing the fluidy light spiciness while a benzoinic ambery base is a perfect kind of talky shelter for a dominant jasmine's presence. Dry down, though never groundbreaking, smells more than dignified, drier, mossier and delicately refined. A vibrant, light and versatile amber's implementation which (though always organic and warm) smells kind of neo-classic but at same time cleaner, simpler, vaguely rubbery, delicately powdery and essential. The overall effect smells as a kind of synthesis and re-interpretation of two traditional olfactory dimensions (cologney/hesperidic/naïf and powdery/talky chypre).
16th March, 2018

New Suede by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

New Suede, with all its georgic (super natural) "paraphernalia", unveils itself by soon as a typical indie-agrestic sort of rooty concoction (hardly blended by an alchemy of real extraits, dense oils, grass, roots and natural ingredients). The juice strikes me immediately because of its realistic bucolic integralism, the indolic crudeness, a citric presence and the evident absence of any suede-trace (and the alleged paradox of the scent's name itself). One of the first considerations jumping indeed on my mind was: this wild rawness is the exact opposite of the typical suedish refined silkiness. I definitely detect by soon tuberose (intense on its connection with citrus), amberish dustiness (fleeting and fading in a while), mossiness, osmanthus, lemon/orange and seasoned woodiness in a general tornado of misty earthiness, grassiness and hesperides. The agrestic power produces a sort of tobacco/oakmoss presence-illusion under my "delusional" nose. It seems to smell an Abdes Salaam Attar Profumo typical perfume (for instance Sharif, Tabac) with tuberose, oakmoss and tobacco, overall finally gentled by floral notes and sweet dustiness. Suede is ghostly (I'd say absent) till the end but the scent smells creative and intriguingly weird. Dry down is pleasantly resinous (still hesperidic, rooty and woodsy but soothed by vanilla and slightly refined by lush osmanthus) but probably it sounds too much wild and unstructured for my full pleasure.
P.S: waiting a tad longer the final wake smells more civilized, softer, vaguely talky (but in to a chyprey/organic, vaguely vintage/animalic way) and delicately floral (never quite suedish) and this end result deserves definitely my little humble thumbs up.
05th March, 2018

Moonlight in Heaven by By Kilian

Yummy tropical cocktail of coconutty rice, floral notes, citrus and mango: a breezy summer beyond the Paradise. Vetiver comes up at distance as woodsy presage of far exotic islands. Not that sort of structure but pure exotic bliss. An heavenly "dimension" more than a "technical" fragrance itself. A summer as long as a dream.
28th February, 2018

Déclaration Parfum by Cartier

A gorgeous classy formula (still here in its landmark figgy-cardamomish-hesperidic-waxy neo classic exotic subtleness) which is in the parfum-version slightly (minimally imo) re-modulated (namely reduced in aqueous/cardamomish/coniferous/spicy freshness and enriched in warmer woody-oriental consistency). Silky, warm, waxy, musky and suedish this Edp is destined to classicism. The freshly exotic vibe is now "restrained" and the juice smells barely drier and silkier (with its super silky musky-waxy-figgy-suedish aura). The spicy-hesperidic-floral exuberant complexity of the Edt is reduced (the aroma itself and evolution are less articulated in the top and the central stages and finally more nuanced in the final musky-waxy trail). The figgy presence (or better the figgy-waxy feel) is in here reinforced in perfect harmony with the increased oriental (woody-balmy) "ancestry". The woody reinforcement (mild, moderate and never "gassy-cedary" as usual in many contemporary woods-oriented perfumes), yet notable is never excessive. I still prefer the hardly perfectible iconic edt but this new warmer more tenacious subtle "fine musky turn" could be a solid alternative for colder seasons and formal night-out outfits. A great fragrance always impeccable and well balanced, a weapon for the modern seducer still loyal to a classic concept of elegance but with a glance to a "cleaner" contemporary type of taste and a more minimalistic and radiant sense of aesthetic.
24th February, 2018 (last edited: 25th February, 2018)

Gentlemen Only Absolute by Givenchy

A light improvement on the original mediocrely metallic Only. Aromatic spicy vanilla and warmer sandalwood. A fresly spicy/hesperidic light creamy sandalwood with a soapy barbeshop neo-classic (ostensibly aldehydic) vibe. Finally sweetish-amberish (still aromatic) and close to a whichever Roccobarocco Extraordinary for Men, CH 212 Sexy Man or Cuba Paris Cuba Gold.
P.S: After a couple of hours this juice smells a tad better, it smells on my skin weirdly "90's" indeed, like a sort of sweeter (dustier) mix of D&G PH old italian formula and Joop Nightflight.
17th February, 2018 (last edited: 03rd March, 2018)

Dark Side of the Goddess by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

Aromatic notes, nutmeg and light resins joined in to a "flat" vegetal accord. Dark Side of the Goddess opens with an "O'driuesque" humid-culinary herbal blast exalting prevalently spicy bay, woodsy resins, herbal notes and myrtle-oil (jump on mind partially Linfedele 1003, Londa 1006, Vis et Honor etc). There is a sort of wet minty-medicinal vibe all around for a while (mostly provided by bay, aromatic plants and myrtle oil). Aromatic ingredients, green dampness, leafy/minty floral patterns and resins are heady on this stage. Well calibrated opoponax and frankincense are immediately detectable, being everything but liturgical, heavy or austere (on the contrary waving out fresh and leafy throughly). Evolution is frankly less laborious than initially expected. Olfactory consistency and "craftamanship" turn immediately out as artisanal and alchemic prerogatives. The final wake is still spicy, vaguely medicinal and delicately floral. Nothing dark or austere under my mediocre nose. A freshly spicy "spring-time oriented" vegetal accord for the lovers of sprouting out spring time nature.
17th February, 2018 (last edited: 18th February, 2018)

In New York by Van Cleef & Arpels

Super generic ozonic-metallic piece of olfactory urban-fougere aqueous boredom, nothing we have not yet copiously smelt 1000 times in life (Lanvin l'Homme, Bond N. 9 Wall Street, Mercedes Benz Man Blue, partially Chanel Bleu, CH 212 Men, Dior Homme Cologne ecc). Nothing new under the sun.
14th February, 2018

Marte Evolution by Battistoni

Cypress, dark rooty patchouli, resins, aromatic earthiness and amberish suede in a bewitching ashy "sombre-urban" accord. Marte Evolution (bottle is a work of art) strikes out as a perfect fragrance under my protectionist nose. Try ideally to combine vintage Cacharel Pour Homme with Clive Christian X for men, adding hints of well calibrated smokey suede and dark synth (peppery) ambergris, well Evolution should adumbrate itself on the horizon as an edgy ghost. Opening is all about fresh fizzy/floral sparkling vetiver. Sage and muguet are heady, together with a starring cypress (bracing, cool, aromatic, herbal). Rosemary? Dry down is gradually drier and drier with this opaque soft ashy-suedish (vaguely incensey and definitely smoky) vibe. A sombre piece of urban perfection.
14th February, 2018

Ghost House by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

A one of a kind, totally weird (in a good sense) one. A phantasmagoric house in the middle of forest, a foggy transilvanian early morning. A fragrance which manages to be cold and warm all in one. A Ghost House represents my first approach with the Anna Zworykina's alchemic experience and I have to say that this scent lives up to its sinister name. A misty, indecipherable, vaguely floral, balsamic aura envelopes by soon my senses in a sort of fuzzy, translucent, transcendent, puzzling vaguely medicinal embrace. This ghostly misty-resinous aroma is balsamic/medicinal, rooty/herbal and ashy/smoky/cedary/vaguely mineral at same time (supposedly this complex effect kind of being mostly provided by choya loban, cassia, cistus and leafy rose). Conceptually I catch elements in common with the Durbano Black Tourmaline's impersonal and abstract mistiness but whereas the latter turns out prevalently mineral and ashy A Ghost House is more properly vegetal, kind of hay-like (abstractly woody) and medicinal (with a sort of muffled kind of leafy-vegetal, hay-like, ostensibly aldehydic and "hyperbaric" vibe a la Andrea Maack). The note of oudh is in here basically rubbery under my profane nose. Frankincense and choya loban are not traditionally incensey but more weirdly vegetal, ashy, rooty, vaguely rubbery/leathery, gasseous and pharmaceutical (partially a la Boadicea the Victorious Complex and Santa Maria Novella Nostagia). Evolution is not laborious, just the juice becoming more and more warm, smoky, abstract, woody-rooty and balsamic along the way. Dry down smells like a watered down (not in a bad acception) sort of Hascish Homme by Veejaga. I recommend testing this fragrance to all those nonconformist and solitary spirits with the deep soul intimately sucked by dark forest's mysterious loneliness.
11th February, 2018 (last edited: 12th February, 2018)

Siberian Musk by Areej le Doré

Grand "neo-georgian" old Hotel-high class neo chypreism. Woodsy muskiness from the high rocky mountain forests. An old school leather-poudree's deja-vu, a decrepit cobbler's "boots polish-smelling" shop. Areej Le Dore Siberian Musk is a multisensorial flashback of my "lusty middle-class's style" childhood (massive leather sofà, austere wooden libraries) , the vintage chypre-age's come back-illusion. Close my eyes and...a little bar of soap, cleanising rose-water, cleaning room detergent-medicinal aroma in the air, retro dark-brown furniture, wood's polish, a french glorious vintage floral chypre fragrance on the bathroom shelf, a black musk-embrace, polished leather boots. Siberian Musk is today a clamorous contemporary link between the old school more straighforward powdery chypreism (Molinard Habanita, Moustace Rochas, Guerlain Djedi, Oleg Cassini, Capucci Punjab) and a new generation neo-vintage waxy/animalic/musky twist a la Bogue Maai, House of Matriarch Bohemian Black, Vero Profumo Onda or Zoologist Civet (and Camel as well), passing across the muskiest Abdul Samad Al Qurashi's. Siberian Musk unfolds a supremely evocative atmosphere of disappeared brilliant precious things. Hesperides, animalic musk and woodsy-resinous coniferous (mostly natural) elements are the olfactory pillars of this aromatic homage to an old school chypre-grandeur. The musky presence is quite intense, yes in your face, medicinal, rubbery (boot-polish like), waxy and mouldy (with a vague mushroom-like humid atmosphere). I'd add hints of dust, aromatic resinous burning effluviums, balsamic candless and a tad of "wood's maceration". This feel is at same time organic (yes visceral as a kind of fecal/stale post-coital muffled warmth) and vaguely floral with a spark of dainty fruity/floral more "processed" sophistication. To be clear: muskiness (musk deer) is extreme, rubbery (boot polish-like), mouldy (vegetal musk, barks, seasoned/smoky woods, dry leaves) and animalic (salty, "private parts-stale sweat miasma-conjuring" and fecal), all the rest is merely accessorial under my profane nose. Galbanum and fir resins provide the general balsamic coniferous rocky mountains-atmosphere. Despite I have to ascertain that Siberian Musk is perfectly blended frankly I don't know how this juice could not be fully fledged "placed" at the highest levels of the animalic scale since the animal musky's vibe (gradually soaring along the way) is extreme and uncompromising, pungent and "compulsive". The boisterous muskiness does not hamper nonetheless the quality of proportions. It even provides (at distance) a sort of well calibrated dandy ancestral (and somewhat cultural) ambience of old dusty books, aristocratic antiquities and burning incenses. The first stage (especially the top) unveils a concert of diverse nuances (mostly floral, citric, waxy/powdery and boise balsamic) while gradyally and along dry down the juice provides a drier more properly "rotten" and straighforward intimate (leathery/musky) feel. Siberian Musk is not an easy fragrance to be appropriately worn but I can't deny It could be confortably "exhibited" by all the lovers of mysticism, cozy mountain huts, dusty libraries or intellectual unmentionable rendez-vous.
06th February, 2018 (last edited: 07th February, 2018)