A dark resinous masculine fragrance of indescribable beauty. Bvlgari Gyan (from Le Gemme new precious line) is the veritable essence of metropolitan luxuriousness. The subtle fresh cardamomish fruity/floral spiciness, combined with a more traditional patch-centered chypre accord, provides a quite classic "under-twist" (a glorious background a la Youth Dew, Armani Onde Mystere, Gianni Versace, Fendi by Fendi or classic Patou) in the body of an extraordinary modern glistening light oriental. The floral presence is soapy-spicy a la Dior Addict but far more dark, humid, piquant and precious. Super lush and glamour, perfect for a gala night in the top down town lounge club. A velvety spicy-floral indonesian patchouli is the main protagonist of this moonlight-dream. One of the most sophisticated perfumes ever tested on skin. A modern masterwork for Bvlgari straight from the Jacques Cavallier's olfactory wisdom.
No more words to fully express my genuine appreciation for this canadian house. This semi-oriental "flori-fragrance" is really spectacular guys (especially after many hours, in its long mysterious dry down). Another artist or indipendent perfumer cooperating with the Zoologist's inspired Art Director (and brand-owner) Victor Wong in order to develop the perfume-house's aesthetic message. Shelley Waddington (Zoologist Civet as well) is the perfumer behind the variegate line En Voyage Perfumes which is created, bottled and packaged at Shelley Waddington’s "workshop". This artist transfers temporarily at the Zoologist's "labos" all her experience and specific knowledge about the classic floral-chypre's universe of the glorious past. Hummingbird is another ostensibly vegetal (fruity-floral-botanic) creation of the line and it sounds by soon as a refined fruity-floral work of green-honeyed balance. Rosey abstraction, honey, pollen, leafy humid silvan greenness, nectarinic fruitiness, medicinal soapiness and powdered muskiness wave constantly in the air. I just can say this is a fragrance to die for, a sort of honeyed-green synthetic multinuanced masterpiece. Hyper refinened as an ideally new generation florals-inspired green Chanel N. 19. A green atmosphere represents the ostensibly vegetal background of this powerfully floral olfactory orchestra. Honey (a rosey waxy/aldehydic neo-victorian resinous honey more than vaguely conjuring the great Ysl Kouros as ideally encoutering Mademoisele Coco in to a minty/starry patchouli-veined embrace) is the second element of this honeyed-green "backstage", a sort of waxy-plummy and evidently pears-smelling vibe which is the "dandy" core of this immensely beautiful evocative (arcane memories of a disappeared childhood) juice. Hummingbird is a lofty blend of several of the most transparent and ethereal florals in nature like lilac, peony, mimosa, rose, violet, muguet, honeysuckle and tulip, overall rooted on a sort of honeyed-green "basement" enriched by rooty, spicy, earthy, woody and musky accents. Sandalwood provides a sort of musky-salty honeyed take of intense refinement (soapy, soapy, soapy) while ylang-ylang (joined to medicinal soapiness and misty ambery-milky-honeyed powder) imprints a wave of translucent exoticism straight from the recesses of the misty childhood. I detect in the air a sort of super-modern synth "kind of aldehydic-lacteous-damp", abstract and I'd say "hyperbaric/translucent/suspended in the air/diaphanous" background a la Andrea Maack's Craft or Silk. The illusion about nectars and floral pollens is intense. It seems to detect as well something kind of dry-woody (hay) or "cyber xerox-toner-like" (a la Cdg Odeur 71) as well. An amazing "chiaroscuro" of vaguely medicinal, naphthalenic, earthy, plastic and soapy-cosmetical tones enriches the general harmony. The juice settles finally down on a velvety milky-ambery-musky basic accord (exuding rosey-honeyed-soapy accents in typical english style) nuanced by typically chypre (old-school in perception) honeyed-animalistic-mossy accents. The final outcome is extremely opulent and really hard to describe (lacteous, "nectarinic", vaguely leathery, aromatic, resinous, medicinal, ambery, peppery, liquorous, honeyed, fruity, unique), something re-interpreting in a modern and genial key a conglomeration of classic themes ("earthy/vegetal/boise", "honeyed-chypre/soapy/rosey/victorian" and more modernly dry-floral - vaguely cyber/abstract at the very end). Unisex (not strictly feminine, especially along dry down) imo. Excellent.
22nd April, 2017 (last edited: 24th April, 2017)
While I don't crave for Muschio Bianco (nice but too sweet and "bath-foam kind") I appreciate far more this deeper, soapier and darker take on the forest-theme from L'Erbolario. I quite enjoy this juice on skin, it is so soapy, mossy, woody and mysterious to die for. I detect oakmoss, vetiver, woods, bark and dry leaves. Impenetrable smell from the deep forest (but with gleams of dry/aromatic/balmy radiancy) finally leaning towards a classic-chypre main (vaguely barber-shop) theme. Yes, it's among the oldies at L'Erbolario and is surely a keeper. Moss settles down in to a mossy-earthy aroma tempered by ambery/woody powdery facets.
Lot of synth lavender and artemisia "performed" in a soapy-intoxicating way. Felci by L'Erbolario is like a sort of Ted Lapidus Black Soul's inexpensive twin, so close to Bogart Silver Scent (and to a vast array of gassy/aromatic and talky/soapy/ambery new generation "deodorants") as well. Don't be fooled by its name, Felci (fern), since this semi-oriental slightly tonkinian-benzoinic italian concoction smells surely slightly herbal-aromatic but in to a different "soapier" way if compared with a typically dry fern's more realistic aroma a la Penhaligon's English Fern (which is authentically herbal-aromatic and kind of almost rooty-medicinal). You will basically try in this case (Felci) a sort of woody-ambery and soapy-herbal intoxicating aroma "vaguely" waving (intoxicatingly) in the air a la Paco Rabanne One Million or Kouros Silver Scent. Nothing new under the sun.
Woahhhhh, God, let me exaggerating with the adjectives,... whatta genial earthy-acid "magically dissonant" (salty-sweet/tart/mellow) serum for "human-bats" of the metropolitan sultry "down town night" (southern tropical "seaside summer nights" jump on mind as well)!!!! I'm realizing to be "on a rave" for this impressive new canadian creative house (a "creative workshop" with a seriously original - "animalic/actually no animal"- concept behind) managing to create the most illusorially animalic fragrances (Bat, Civet, Beaver) actually with no trace of real animal notes. Bat is one of the "naughtiest" scents I've ever tested on skin, pure hardcore "porno-oriented" olfactory eroticism, something at same time arcane (wild, caves' mustiness eliciting) and super modern (glamour). Bat is definitely one the most original "salty-fiery" hair-chested leathers I've had the pleasure to test. Pure genius. Unique, a one of a kind blend of leather, resins, fizzy mineral notes and captivating tropical fruits. An hypnotic fragrance based on a game of unexpected contrasts. In the same league (at least conceptually) as bizarre-irreverent olfactory twists a la Escentric Molecules Kinski, Zoologist Bat possesses an amazing "fizzy-molecular-swarming" salty-mineral (all at once rooty/woody and aromatic) accord of vetiver, salty/woody sandalwood, mineral elements, leafy vegetal patterns, dodgy ozonic patterns, damp earthiness, dry roots and tropical dry (tart-salty "red") or mellow fruits. The main bitter (citric)-sweet acid/salty (humid-camphoraceous) testosteronic accord masters this olfactory masterwork of synth creativity, being however finally counteracted by a sweeter/softer chord of sultry balsams, tropical fruits, visceral resins and sweated musks. The outcome is "arresting" and purely provocative in all its peculiar glory. The camphoraceous presence is "appalling", humid, rocky, mouldy, earthy, vegetal and mossy.
The contrast between rooty/mineral camphor and yummy figgy-tropical resins is simply superb. Vetiver, sandalwood and leather provide an high level of saltiness. Amazing, a sultry dark accord for a "sweated" sinny journey through the most tropical and chaotic rave party ever. Finally a more than vague "smoother" figgy (a la Ferragamo Pour Homme/ Diptyque Philosykos) creamy note (figs, banana, baksams, tonka) pops up on the scene providing a twist of fruity exotic smoothness. Addictive as few scents in this universe with its spark of musky virile fizzy/acid (balsamic) piquancy, Bat makes an "unbuttoned shirt" virile sweated man in a chaotic beach-party ideally jumping on mind. There is this salty-acid mineral rugged presence (a tart fruity grapes/pomegranate-like presence as well) conjuring me incredibly an urban juice which I love, namely the salty (and more than vaguely leathery) Bond N. 9 New York Oud, the juice I know which mostly Bat resembles at. Finally you will enjoy an immensely sexy and provocative metropolitan "clubbing-leather-salty-fragrance" which will manage to lord over all the most straightforward sexy accords of the night clubs' playground. Simply amazing.
P.S: I surely see how "Bat pays tribute to the biological characteristics of the bat—its diet and habitat—as well as the myths and legends surrounding these furry, mysterious creatures of the night". I have to say that anyway this is a surprisingly modern and "urban" leather-juice (at least in my perception) which nails down a new particularly modern concept of "glamour" in to a powerfully exotic, virile and trendy/fashionable way (not properly a caves-conjuring scenario on my mind).
11th April, 2017 (last edited: 13th April, 2017)
A warm-spicy classic light elegant fougere. Under my vulgar nose Fishbone for man (especially in the top phase) is simply one of the closest things to vintage Nino Cerruti (which is more floral and structured). An extremely spicy-watery (lot of cinnamon, citrus, aromatics and woodsy cardamomish synth musks) classy take on fluidy-virile lavender (supported by musks, "liquid-peppery" spices, piquant-tasty spices and warm synth ambergris). Spices, florals (geranium as well?) and tart fruits provide a sharp melancholic vibe. The general atmosphere is surely restrained, confident and masculine. I get surely rose, a musky romantic spicy-green rose conjuring me vaguely the (more modern and poetic) rose-rendition in Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noir Pour Homme. I detect that lavender/cardamom/fir resins/conifers-centered familiar accord we pick up back in several old-school fougeres a la Rockford, Henry Cottons, several Penhaligon's or Trussardi Action (I detect several Givenchy Insense's nuances as well). Patchouli utterly darkens the juice providing a bolder-warmer twist. Dry down is warm (with an ostensibly organic warm-salty-man-skin-effect) and decidedly synthetic (synth "confident" ambergris) but still pleasant. Faint duration on my sucking skin.
Iconic pretty exotic musky blend of mellow/tropical fruits, citrus, mild woods, "aromatics", luxuriant spices and balsams. A wild "Amazonian" sweetly musky semi-oriental. I get for a while a vague mohito's initial "fizzy" effect. Vibrant, vivid jump on the "caribbean "jungle's" microcosm. I detect a vague "candied" burnt sugar/ripe fruits-association conjuring me slightly the typical Cacharel Eden's wild-tropical twist. I get as well a vague Feminite du Bois/Fille en Aiguilles's "Lutenesque" spark from the impenetrable forest. Jungle is anyway lighter and more "sultry". Erotic. Excellent for a reggaeton dance in smoky club of L'Havana or for a rave beach summer party of the southern lands. Visceral but decidedly chic/glamour all at once (possessing an urban-chic character ofter opposite to a chaotic "sexy sultriness"). Finally I get a spicy sort of "starry-chic" (almost anisic/minty) candied cool synth undertone. I quite enjoy this kind of visceral juices guys.
05th April, 2017 (last edited: 06th April, 2017)
A creamy aromatic breezy beauty with an excellent spicy and freshly (citric) balmy dry down of benzoinic vetiver and perfumed mild woods. Classy a la Must de Cartier Pour Homme in style (though not so "sublime and lofty") with hints of "far lands" exoticism. Tonkinian/cardamomish and airy-(vaguely)anisic. A fragrance for yacht clubs and yuppies. A surprise.
An oceanic blast of "purely synthetic" dazzling floral musky soap. Almost edible irresistible super-radiant synth white musk. Bergamot provides structure and a tad of counteracting twist of "tart balance" in the middle of some milky-musky waves. You could appreciate FlowerbyKenzo Eau de Lumiere if you enjoy the (quite similar, just less floral and more soapy-neutral) italian bath foam Nidra Latte. Rose enhances abstract neutral soapiness while jasmine provides radiancy and floral sophistication. "Candy powdery" elements whirl in the foamy air. A super radiant ethereal "easy" potion more the dignified (on the commercial sphere of synth designers) and powerful on "sensual-innocent" musky jasmine. Long dry down is a tad less musky and slightly saltier and more "neutral-citric".
Whoahhhhh. What an amazing fragrance is it guys!!!!!! Supremely green fairy bamboo from the "wilderness". Sooo fresh and invigorating. The "wonderponds" fragrance, an inebriating musky-floral-aqueous masterpiece of "vegetal-oriented mental evasion", the dodgy microcosm of woodland creatures as gnomes, elfs, genies, batterflies and the fairies. A jubilation of enchanted streams, hypnotic echoes of drops, silvan untouchable creatures, floating gigantic leaves and quiescent ponds. A peaceful fragrance. Ideally a new generation-Chanel n. 19, Zoologist Panda roots its substance over the core of one of my favorite elements in perfumery (the super chic-languid poetic osmanthus, as supported by watery lillies, oriental blossoms, bamboo, zisu leaves, exotic roots and graceful mimosa), an element (a royal osmanthus) which in this case is vivid, full of vibrant silvan energy in its leafy-vegetal exchanged aura. Flowers are "fluidy", water-drenched and floating on the immobile pond's waters. Osmanthus (and several aqueous languid florals of the enchanted forests) is enclosed in a super peppery-musky "aqueous" silky-fluidy "aura of green tea, zisu, bamboo, citrus, oriental blossoms, musky vetiver and general resinous/suedish silkiness". Green tea is a starry element with its dry-tart citric/green vibe. Woodsy resins, suedish synth elements and exotic (smooth) musk (a powdery vetiver and soapy musk) provide a super smooth aura counteracting the citric/green general "botanic" tartness. The green-floral accord is vaguely medicinal and kind of mystic. The whole balance is fixed over this marvelous game of soft-tart contrasts, overall in the magic round of this general fresh vegetal-oriented poetry. There is something arcane and "childish" (in the sense of childish dreams-conjuring). Atmosphere apart the final outcome is anyway a super classy-chic creation exuding class and fresh sensuality for an indipendent dynamic woman (more than vaguely a la Jul et Mad Terrasse a St Germain). A surprisingly "european in style" north american piece of perfumery, a quite sapient/mature twist on fragrances. One of the best bamboo/tea-based florals I've ever tested on skin along my miserable career and a hugely recommended creation (truly awakening your senses) from the surprising Zoologist's magic workshop. A piece of silvan poetry in perfumery and a real work of art. A winner.
I can solemnly assert that Zoologist Civet is a contemporary gem, really, a cult fragrance (by now a modern classic), a pretty gorgeous creation which, while paying tribute to a classic baroque french honeyed-mossy-spicy chypre tradition (civet= Coco Chanel, Guerlain Djedi, Rochas Mystere, Must de Cartier, Estee Lauder Knowing etc), manages at same time to strum the (wilder fruity-spicy) strings of the Indie's
dodgy creative underworld, succeeding in the aim to conjugate (exactly a la House of Matriarch Bohemian Black, a far Civet's cousin) classic and contemporary, baroquely structural and the wild cozy countryside-farm's universe (just to be better intended: ideally the classic Roccobarocco woman or Ungaro Diva interpenetrate their classic substance with the visceral Slumberhouse Sova or Rundholz 03.Apr.1968). A proudly synth note of civet is in here connected to roasted coffee, resinous plummy-figgy spices, tropical flowers and "forest" in order to disclose a bold bloody (salty-plummy) effluvium which is all at once sapiently (with balance) alluring and wildly rural. Opening is quite visceral, a blast of sultry-spicy indescribable emotions (dark, sparkling, multicolored, equatorial, dry-fruity and dirty/sweated). I detect by soon a dark resinous-peppery-woodsy/mossy-liquorous classically chypre background enveloping the brisk sultry elements of the piquant night and overall is supported by a toasted accord of earthy patchouli, burnt dried fruits and roasted coffee. I can pick up dried figs, tropical flowers (kind of orchid, tuberose, ylang-ylang), salty leather, toasted tobacco, liqueur, sugary nuts, impenetrable spices, woods, misty resins and tasty balsams (the culinary-boozy-bloody carnality of this opening "recalls" to me an ideal combination of Les Liquides Imaginaires Belo Rabello and several of the spiciest/more syrupy/honeyed Slumberhouse's creations a la Jeke and Sova). Apart toasted coffee I detect a general (typically Indie in style) burnt-sugar's effect as mastering (resins galore). The core of this juice is represented by this central mysterious connection of toasted coffee and a sort of animalic black (salty-acid) musk (the synth civet's effect). I don't get the civet's typical fecal vibe, while I surely detect (as background and after many hours) an erotic sort of "stale - vaguely acid - pungent sweat of the body recesses-effect" combined with wax and honey (which is typical of vintage animalic chypres). Along the way various balsams seem to go soothing the elements and a muskier-lighter more "polished" chypre (mossy-woody-honeyed) vibe pops up as a stroke of fate. I detect in this phase a vaguely less dark presence of honey, oakmoss, heliotrope and mossy leather. The main effect, despite stable (sapiently orchestrated, alluring, elegant) and proudly classic "in school", is anyway destabilizing, avant-garde and incredibly erotic. Super bold sillage and great longevity on my feral skin. Excellent creation nearby the house of Zoologist.
Nightingale is my first experience with Zoologist, the magnificent "by flora/fauna-inspired" Indie/naturalistic canadian alchemic niche brand. Their collection is aimed to capture the idiosyncrasies of the animal kingdom, transforming them into scents that are somewhat unusual and original. The main goal is supposed to be the one to connect "by perfumes" the wearer to great delights of the natural world. My first impression testing the juice on skin is immediately kind of wowing me; whatta resinous impact, what a fantastic indolic approach, what a visceral fruity-floral musky assault!! First of all, this is a super spicy-resinous creation (spicy frankincense, oudh, ambergris, fir resins, labdanum etc), as much resinous to conjure me (anyway in to a far more fruity-floral key) scents a la Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia, Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh or several of the most straightforward frankincense-based accords (though in this case frankincense is well calibrated and is just like a brick of a more complex high construction). There is a "nowadays classic" central accord of rose/saffron/oudh but in this case fruity-floral intense elements and rich muskiness provide a new deeper vegetal outcome. The juice expresses a "japanese-in-inspiration" sort spring-time botanic atmosphere (the perfumer Tomoo Inaba is surely inspired by her japanese origin and the "naturalistic past" in deep contact to nature). Nightingale is a fruity-floral chypre (finally honeyed, rosey, waxy, apparently aldehydic, musky) opening with an assault of rosey saffron, plums (japanese plum blossoms) and violet under my profane south-european nose. Violet is temperamental for sure. The rosey vibe is by soon super spicy, creamy and yummy (sort of balmy, almost saffrony-syrupy) and its royal neo-victorian neutral/detergent/botanic/leafy-like vibe is counteracted by a more pungent accord of plums and violet (kind of berrish, juicy and candied). The overall atmosphere is surely musky, hyper musky, silvan and vegetal. A lemony note (on the side of woods) reinforces in the meanwhile the fruity-floral "plummine's intensity" and the general "perfumed botanic intensity" of the opera. The visceral floral syrup (really saffrony-rosey, plummy and resinous), as conjoined to carnal resins and deep musk, provides a quite sensual general effect while patchouli enhances structure and charisma. A fragrance by a great structure, gorgeousness and complexity claiming to capture the Japanese spring's onset with an obsessive dark floral pungency and a general sense of soapy-assertive oriental rapture. Excellent.
Sultry and musky a la Versace Eros Pour Femme, just a tad less fruity, pungent, radiant and musky. While Versace pushes the accelerator over magnolia, freesia, orange blossoms and ozonic molecules Yves Rocher Quelques Notes d'Amour is more properly rosey, light, delicate and balmy-ambery (soapy). Both the creations are "airy", fruity (red fruits from the forest - cassis, raspberry, bilberry etc), salty and exude a sort of sultry-"sweated" synth sensual "sweet-salty" (musky/ambery) presence which is finally warm, pretty feminine and slightly dissonant. A decent easy feminine eau.
"In to the fougere's wild". Faberge Cellini for men is a quite refined (but really "strong") freshly aromatic barber-shop classic fougere exuding a fascinating fresh aura a la Aramis Tuscany Man (a lot), Drakkar Noir, Cuba Black men by Cuba Paris or (mostly) Azzaro Pour Homme. I detect this mastering initial soapy-anisic accord of aromatic herbs, fresh lavender and citrus, immediately supported by leather/patchouli (with a quite soapy-suedish leather's effect), by a refined sharp floral core (mostly carnation under my profane nose), overall flowing down towards a mossy-ambery-leathery base (dandy, classy, "tailored", leathery, soapy, aromatic, dry). Anisic lavender, musks, synth ambergris and soapy leather are dominant throughout while the florals are restrained, angular and "accessorial". I detect an undeniable spicy presence (and some misty earthiness) but the juice is mostly an aromatic-soapy (mossy-ambery-leathery) fougere with a radiant spark of gentlemanly dandy class. Supremely masculine. Durable on my bastard skin.
P.S: dry down is darker (vaguely smoky, austere, quite soapy-mossy - but all at once angular - and assertive a la Ysl vintage Rive Gauche).
22nd March, 2017 (last edited: 23rd March, 2017)
One of the most expensive "musky/talky bath-foams" of the market. Not for me. An "highly placed" mix of "market cracks cliche'-formulas". Joop Homme+ Baldessarini Ambre + a whichever musky-herbal-talky "ubiquitous" bath foam + Paco Rabanne One Million + Gaultier Le Male + a bombastic luxurious packaging = Reflection Man. Just a far more expensive, yet slightly more herbal and structured mix of the former juices. Finally Reflection turns out pretty talky, floral-chic and warm. I've read somewhere there is no resemblance with Joop Homme but I detect many points in common with it especially about the first part of the run (angular- herbal/hesperidic- elements, candied heliotrope, spices, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver, ambroxan, tonka, sandalwood etc). Finally the olfactory routes diverge and Reflection Man becomes a musky-talky amalgam significantly distant from the Joop's powerhouse disclosure. A really powerful fragrance. Hints of peppery spices, woody saltiness, synth ambery piquancy, floral patterns and aromatic herbal greenness ransom an otherwise overly boring expensive talky-ambery blend. Save your money guys.
P.S: after many ours I detect several changes, the juice evolves, a "languid" anisic (a la Thierry Mugler's Angel) sort of unisex fruity/floral patchouli comes out and I finally see a pretty chic sort of Chanel Allure's aura (vaguely candied/honeyed/floral-chic/aromatic). I detect in this phase an alluring sambac jasmine supported by neroli, "anisic-starry-candied" sandalwood and patchouli.
19th March, 2017 (last edited: 20th March, 2017)
L'Erbolario Ginepro Nero: in the same league as Terre d'Hermes (GN is less earthy-incensey and more humid), Montale Red Vetyver (more vetiver-oriented and powdery) and Rouge Bunny Rouge Tundra (which is more misty and indecifrable) Ginepro Nero explores the "deep forest's muskiness-theme". Juniper berries, vetiver, fir resins and earthy patchouli overall merged in to an enchanted mossy-damp atmosphere of the northern lands' wild woods. Earthy, hesperidic, humid, musky, peppery, woody-salty, cedary and boise, this L'Erbolario's creation is a quite dignified (finally urban, dry, virile and casual) alternative to far more expensive market-tigers. Thumbs up.
Not a lot to add to the previous great rbaker's description. One of my absolute favorite from La via del Profumo, the aroma of Topkapi Palace, a really gorgeous exotic/oriental take on the spicy/musky rose-theme, a quite magnificent (super delicate) refined accord of Rose Damascene, subtle spicy notes, resinous musks and warm/dreamy animalic amber (powdery and balmy) in typical arabic style. The muskiness is soft, spicy, heliotropic, soapy-poudre, elegant, delightful. Resins, rose-essence and spicy balsams structure the rosey work of super airy-fairy "Attar" refinement. A fragrance for Sultans and Ottoman Imperators, a juice for enigmatic turkish women, a waxy-floral-spicy potion exuding an epic and oriental ambience of Mosques, Minarets and mosaics of the Padishah's salons.
Passion D'Homme Rodier (a super kind homage-vial from my friend David) is a dodgy sweet/woody semi-gourmand accord which (as soon as layered on my skin) starts to stimulate immediately several edges of my schizophrenic olfactory memory since it seems to me like smelling as a weird ideal combination of scents as Baldessarini Ambre' (sweeter and probably more powerful), Givenchy Insense (in its more obscure, assertive, liquid aura), Acqua di Biella Ca' Luna (in its earthy-sugary spiciness) and (vaguely) Lolita Lempika Au Masculine (which is anyway far more bombastic in its synthetic salty-sugary muskiness). Scents as A*Men or Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille are too much intense to be taken as references imo. I have to say that also scents as R by Revillon, Davidoff Hot Water, Creed Original Santal, Vince Camuto Pour Homme, Gaultier Le Beau Male or Prada Luna Rossa jump random on mind for several of their hallmarks. Basically Passion d'Homme is a captivating casual, sporty, juvenile and versatile formula evolving from its initial freshly floral fluidy/gymnic (90's mainstream) opening to a final musky-vaguely leathery-sugary/spicy dry down, passing across a central (to me somewhat unpleasant) amberish/spicy semi-oriental stage. I detect the combination of salty-musky elements (quite sporty and "gymnic) with a basic dusty-amberish (galaxolide/ambroxan-centered) warmer dry down (passing through an aromatic floral-earthy-herbal-peppery stage). Hints of synth tobacco and booziness are detectable by my miserable nose of province. Not my genre for sure but surely an interesting juice to be "captured" by younger more fashionable urban/style-follower crowds.
A simple but at same time multi-nuanced combination which manages to be (despite its minimalism) aristocratic in its variegate articulation and powerfully nostalgic like the music of a french carillon. Quite great aromatic-floral opening immediately rich of evocative power and full of diverse nuances of floral-pollen, jasmine-nectar, soapiness, toasted coffee, Sambuca, pistachio-creams, taste of creamy liqueurs and boozy artisanal pastries. Despite being Amber-Jasmine a floral accord the floral element (yet present) is like a ghost merging its substance in the whole "riverbed" of a generally oriental amberish ambience of handmade liquors, sweet confectionery, honey, waxy-heliotropic soaps, rojal jelly and almonds. This genuine Dubrana's accord conjugates indeed a syrupy (almost candied) redolent jasmine's presence (which is obsessive as a lost affection) with a sort of anisic-heliotropic-waxy decadent amberish vibe. The note of amber is in here "multi-veined", complex, organic, yummy, pastries-taste's nuanced, honeyed and luxurious. This floral amber embraces my skin with a childhood's sweet memory of innocent dreams, happy ceremonies and veritable carefree joy, while elevating higher and higher our senses. There is a sort of victorian soapy atmosphere throughout and a conjured "lost back in a far past" memory of warm Christmas-holidays, rich banquets and happy moments of full dreamy childish life. Average duration of moderate sillage on my skin.
L'Orpheline by Serge Lutens starts promisingly with a fantastic humid-earthy accord of damp patchouli, dry-piquant spices, earthy-rooty vetiver and resins (synth amber and Iso E driven incense) a la Armani Prive' Bois d'Encens. There is by soon all around a galaxolide's musky synth presence. This opening is, for a couple of minutes amazing (and vaguely realistic in several of its nuances) with a dreamy dark-boise wet atmosphere rich of musks, roots, mineral molecules, sticky forest's resins, forest-leaves and mouldiness. I detect in this phase a "dodgy" creamy-resinous vibe (vaguely licoricey and cocoa-nuanced), hints of orris roots (not listed), a tad of powdery iris and something salty (probably aroused by frankincense and not listed vetiver) yet intimate (properly masculine and kind of simil-organic). Unfortunately in a few time a more than vaguely disturbing synthetic woody feel (a sort of dry, slightly pencil-shavings in vibe, cedary feel so mainstream nowadays) takes the scene partially compromising the rich woodsy musky initial aura. Dry down is muskier but still synthetically woody. Anyway I still detect an intimate salty spiciness and mineral resins which I find sexy and bold. On the complex my final humble rating is "medium" cause I really can't stand (though moderate as in this case) this dry cerary vibe nowadays "ubiquitous" in the fragrances' universe.
A magnificent take on a real agarwood resin (a la Abdul Samad Al Qurashi) with all its "aged" array of "stuffy" nuances (musky, mossy, resinous, animalic, dirty, rubbery, honeyed, leathery, woody, fur-like, mouldy, steamy, camphoraceous). The rubbery/animalic (like castor sacs' aroma exuding) feel conjures me more than vaguely the By Kilian Pure Oud's boot polish-effect but while the latter creation is smokier Amber Oud is more mouldy/musky (and castoreum/truffles-like smelling). Hardly evolving juice, rising complex-multifaceted by nature di per se. Really close to Castoreum from the same house, with its wild-leather/fur's mossy feel (and its vague aroma of mexical Mezcal yet buck/reindeer's fur) while I detect as well a "black musk-typical" honeyed impenetrable dirtiness. A "veritable" raw material barely "caressed" and modulated by Dubrana in order to better "embellish" (and mitigate) its full range of "multiveined" prerogatives. La Via del Profumo Amber Oud is profound and arcane (but never oppressive and surprisingly wearable). I don't know whether ambergris is included in the potion (and surely some ambery nuances are in here detectable) but the most prominent feel I pick up is probably musky, yes a black musk's darkly honeyed presence quite oily, animalic (a sheer castoreum's oil seems to wave under my disreputable nose) and fungous-truffly. Moderate projection and good longevity on my skin.
02nd March, 2017 (last edited: 03rd March, 2017)
If you are generally in the mood of cozy (oriental/ semi-oriental) creations a la Arabian Oud Kalemat, Il Profvmo Chocolat, several Serge Luten's spicy appointments, La via del Profumo Amber Chocolate or Milano Caffè (which exude anyway a basically diverse kind of coziness), or if you even appreciate the brighter (creamier) heliotropic-vanillic Farmacia SS Annunziata Cara or Kiori by Kiori, well you will surely enjoy the warmly animalic Cuoio dei Dolci's sultry tobacco. Actually, I borrow the word "cozy" since the vanilla-ylang-ylang's remarkable presence (as usual on my synapses) provides me with this sort of "far lands exotic" twist but at same time since a superb castoreum's presence elicits in here this wide sense of carnal (kind of salty-yummy, dusty sweet, luxurious and liquorous) aromatic warmth. Sort of anisic is the sudden approach with this semi-gourmand intimate scent, a sort of "across the board" coniferous aromatic aura surrounding all the straight to follow unveiled elements. Cuoio dei Dolci actually opens its run with an adamant assault of castoreum, dried orange, dry almond, cocoa beans, spices (may be hints of nutmeg or clove) and coniferous resins under my grotesque nose. Sugary, boozy (kind of cognac's presence evoking), warmly yummy, "wooden nuanced" Christmas holidays conjuring. Castoreum is immediately notable in a sort of fresh-aromatic (somewhat minty-piney), surely mouldy and just barely honeyed way (I mean somewhat sugary, almondy-heliotropic and "sweet liquorous pastries/Christmas cakes/icing sugar/dried orange/sweetmeat/white-sugary molasses-ideally conjuring"). An evocative approach due to exhume the most arcane of your childhood memories. Anyway this sort of almondy-aromatic-vaguely talky castoreum is the main initial presence on my skin with its salty-sugary (talky-resinous and vaguely "truffley") provision. Tonka, vanilla, may be cypress and ylang-ylang are clearly quite notable in this exotic phase while gradually tobacco jumps up with its pipe vanillic (and at same time salty-humidor-acid-"agricole") feel. Honestly is hard to retain along dry down "the cocoa beans-presence's perception" which is indeed throughout heady in (more straightforward on cocoa beans-temperament) scents as Amber Chocolate or Milano Caffè (which is far spicier) while the yet notable tobacco is anyway surely more heady in diverse La Via del Profumo's creations as Don Corleone or Tabac. Castoreum (especially along the first minutes) and a sort coniferous almondy/heliotropic presence are the most relevant presences on my skin throughout. I don't detect any buttery or particularly intense ambery feel which somebody claims to pick up from this blend. Repeat, the honeyed feel is moderate and never thick. Dry down is more than vaguely woody (seasoned mild woods) and musky under my "deceitful" nose from the far southern lands. "About the leather" actually Cuoio dei Dolci could not be properly defined a leather-dominant accord (the juice does not claim to be a straightforward leather-manifesto a la Aramis classic) but frankly you could notice a subtle (gradually emerging) leather's final presence along the dry down and the "leathery feel" jumping up from the dominant castoreum. To conclude..., ealued on its whole array of nuances Cuoio dei Dolci is surely a fully satisfactory "natural in approach" intellectual fragrance with a sheer sense of literary manneristic decadence, "golden age cheerful bacchanalia" and bourgeois inexorable debauchery. Moderate sillage (or better, somewhat faint sillage) and longevity on my skin (just my personal alchemy on this perfume while I enjoy a greater longevity and projection with scents as Don Corleone, Mecca Balsam or Muschio di Quercia).
Basically a sophisticated and chic nocturnal sambac jasmine. Supremely feminine and glamour a la Thierry Mugler Alien, carnal a la Tom Ford Black Orchid (the jasmine-tuberose "nectarinic" final accord gives out a sort of musky orchid-illusion). Mqueen runs the way of super glamour-chic radiant florals. The juice starts almost dry and fruity (yes vaguely a la Dior J'adore - grapefruit, citrus, neroli etc). You can immediately notice the huge fluidy-peppery-aromatic-vegetal (vaguely - or better- ostensibly salty-ozonic) presence a la Jul et Mad Aqua Sextius (initially almost aqueous, minty and extremely "streamy") and the sheer floral radiancy (you could almost swear to detect a sort of lily/lotus/white peony-dominant musky diaphanous presence a la Estee Lauder Modern Muse or Van Cleef & Arpels Muguet Blanc) before to assist to a masterful jasmine/tuberose's starring spring-time blooming up. Ylang-ylang is another absolutely dominant note, providing that super chic synth-cosmetical-balmy/soapy/neutral exotic spark. Surely synth vetiver exalts the piquant saltiness counteracting a floral "juiciness". Along the way jasmine enhances its whispering nocturnal caress bestowing this delicate nocturnal vibe upon the olfactory fatigue. Dry down is mostly a musky soapy accord of ylang-yland, milky jasmine and balmy-vanillic tuberose. Effectively I detect a remarkable resemblance to Madonna Truth or Dare which is finally cramier. I detect as well a tad of the Bvlgari Jasmine Noir's silent darkness and romance. The final "twist" is surely elegant and sensual (well appointed in its complex) though definitely not unique.
Valentino Vendetta (a fragrance nowadays almost impossible to be retraced around) has been at the time a gorgeous floral-chypre perfumed witness of the Maison Valentino haute couture's grandeur. In the same league as rich regal giants like V&A Van Cleef, Roccobarocco or Ungaro Diva it opens "problematically" with an aggressive welcome of bergamot, aldehydes, pungent herbal notes, green aromatics and "molecular edgy spices" in order to disclose gradually a final complex soapier-muskier mélange of rich fruits (plums, peaches?), sweet spices, kaleidoscopic floral facets, exotic elements (ylang-ylang, vetiver), woods and oriental-resinous-boise ingredients (amber, moss, labdanum, resins). Almost impossible to describe the aroma. Fruits, amber, orchid and tuberose are dominant in the body of this artistic piece of complex grand perfumery. Dry-herbal notes and sharp woods counteract (by hints of "neutrality") the fruity-floral mild spicy richness. Resins, musks, honey, ripe fruits and balsams are well calibrated and never abused. Dry down is super classy, lofty and forbidding (anyway never too massive and quite balanced - yes somewhat graceful). An highly classy fur-dressed (covered by jewels) Grand Madame at Opera Theatre comes ideally on mind in her gorgeous long organza-dress and the solemn gait.
09th February, 2017 (last edited: 10th February, 2017)
Galop d'Hermes is a super straightforward freshly soapy saffrony rose, radiant and bright. Saffron, heady in the top, goes gradually fading. I detect some muskiness but frankly any leather on my skin (while it seems to catch balmy resins, undistinguished mellow fruitiness, tonka bean and cardamom). The general radiancy is sexy and bold (almost carnal in its edible airy yumminess). I appreciate the Herme's way to treat an usually "struggling" theme as "the rose" which in this case appears "unusually" versatile, honeyed-waxy-cosmetic in vibe (a la Cera di Cupra Rosa) and "semi-orientally appealing". This juice could sound as a sort of rosey Voyage d'Herme's feminine counterpart (due the common sense of powdery/soapy/freshly spicy exotic dreaminess). An optimistic and exotic take on musky rose for woman.
P.S: finally I detect also a sort of honeyed-vanillic-resinous sambac jasmine's presence (combined with rose) which is vaguely in the same league as the one we enjoy in Alien Essence Absolue (which encloses also orris). I detect also an "Elie Saab Le Parfum-conjuring" synthetic basic muskiness. This final trait is creamy, honeyed and musky (overall in to a balanced way), something quite warmer and super-sensual.
06th February, 2017 (last edited: 07th February, 2017)
Wow. Far beyond Marc Jacobs Bang (as general quality) and surely at same Villoresi Piper Nigrum's level (being anywhere the latter a basically diverse and more complex type of juice - less woody and more spicy-resinous), this CdG's black pepper-dominant accord is one of the best renditions of this supremely arid dark "old spice theme". An aqueous-fresh (Wonderwood-conjuring) cedarwood is equally dominant in its abstract dry woody saltiness while black pepper is super-realistic, exotic and elegantly rendered. A simple freshly virile and classy fragrance from the impeccable Comme des Garcons. Thumbs up.
A simple sparkling resinous cologney Cartier's appointment with a dominant accord of rosemary, neroli, aromatic greens and hesperidic lavender (a la 4711 EKW) and a more sticky mossy dry down (mastered by mastic, oakmoss and may be galbanum). Absinth and aromatics provide a sort of balsamic-minty background. Throughout the atmosphere is kind of "enchanted", musky, vegetal and botanic. L'Heure Vertueuse is really green and silvan but frankly unworthy the huge price.
Another disappeared piece of classic italian perfumery. Python is a classic in style semi-gourmand chypre combining the old school rich spicy-floral-mossy "chypreism" (Ungaro Diva, Gianni Versace, Van Cleef, Krizia Donna, Roccobarocco) with the more modern lighter-soapier-muskier fruity/floral/vanillic approach that we enjoy in scents as Guerlain Samsara or vintage Laura Biagiotti Venezia (I detect many "spicy-fruity-floral" similarities between Python and the two former overmentioned juices - variegate floral presence, peaches/plums, amber/vanilla, ylang-ylang, musk, sandalwood- just Trussardi Python finally sliding towards a more vanillic-benzoinic dry down). The Python's semi-gourmand dry down is more properly vanillic but "endowed" by an obscure mossier presence missing in the woodier-muskier Samsara/Venezia's lighter dry down. A pleasant romantic elusive creation.
One of the few decent takes on this "poor" fashionable ambroxan/galaxolide-dominant genre, an Acqua di Biella Ca' Luna/Prada Luna Rossa/Police The Sinner for men/Diesel Only the Brave's far cousin (musks and lavender recall in here slightly Le Male along the top side of the affair as well) but with a decidedly less sweetish and musky vibe, a remarkable woody presence and a quite restrained/ambergris-driven/nutty (almost salty and vaguely leathery) virile undertone (black pepper, cloves/nutmeg and ginger provide warm spicy piquancy and I feel on skin the classic Aramis's hesperidich-earthy secret background). There is salty woodiness, an aromatic general vibe and a plain piquant spiciness. Dry down is restrained, vaguely leathery and warm. Aramis Voyager is surely not a great fragrance but I can't deny it could project many qualities and a good dose of sexiness if layered on the right skin.
Oud & Rose is my first approach with the Cartier's Les Heures Voyageuses luxury line. This juice is an impalpable caress. An aereal, pure, molecular (a la Agarwoud Heeley or Maria Lux Deeply) suedish rose-oud combo, thankfully far from the usual gassy-saffrony obnóxious approaches to which many "niche" brands (on the same) theme have accustomed us lately. Here we are on another subtle and celestial level. A refined soft "rosey" celestial oud-rose accord supported by musk, sweet baldams, "assertive" resins, perfumed woods, light spices and fresh undiscerned elements. A dreamy super expensive juice for a cloudy unapproachable experience.