Reviews by Darvant

    Darvant's avatar
    Italy Italy

    Showing 391 to 420 of 1750.

    Oolang Infini by Atelier Cologne

    Oolang Infini conjures me soon up in mind the salty/soapy Heaven's virile and dynamic sharp sensuality with that typical organic (somewhat intimate and testosteronic) vibe which was in my opinion the most appreciable side in the "departed" Chopard. Atelier Cologne Oolang Infini is indeed an extremely intimate and profound salty/ozonic tea centered potion with several points in common with the great Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli (which shares with this one the salty/intimate vibe though in Mistral Patchouli the feel is more ambery and almost finally leathery in a rich way while in Oolang Infini the effect is more typically translucent and aqueous). The Oolang Infini's aroma is centered over a basic oriental green tea note (conjuring me a lot the classic Bulgari Pour Homme or the Roger&Gallet The Vert) combined with aqueous flowers, ozonic notes, musk, tobacco flower, jasmine and transparent cedarwood. A touch of leather locks the round nailing down another point in common with its " collegue" Mistral Patchouli (which anyway does not list the noticeable note of soft leather among the others). The cedary dry down elicits a typical "ascetic and meditative" oriental (i mean typically japanese in style) vibe which is extremely sharp and silent even if not excessively castigatory. I still prefer Bulgari Eau Parfumee Au The' Vert, Roger&Gallet The Vert and even more the classic Bulgari Pour Homme as tea based juices. The jasmine is a key element of the aroma as combined with musk, salty citrus and tobacco flower. Not my "cup of tea" but anyway an appreciable aroma for the lovers of the genre. Good longevity on my skin.

    03rd February, 2014


    Mistral Patchouli by Atelier Cologne

    A wonderful windy/salty/incensey patchouli immensely evocative about the oceanic immensities though finally decidedly smooth and somewhat semi-oriental in consistency. I detect by soon some anise (combined with aromatic herbs, sharp floral notes and salty/ozonic patterns) and humid perfumed woods in the ozonic/ambery recipe. The dry down becomes gradually more intense and almost resinous with its incensey presence, losing "via vai" the initial sharper vibe. The intimate warm type of saltiness (lingering throughout) conjures me a lot another juice from the same line, I mean the interesting Oolang Infini which is finally more translucent and aqueous, more properly centered over a basic green tea note conjuring me a lot the classic Bulgari Pour Homme or the Roger&Gallet The' Vert (but also Heaven Chopard in some of its soapy nuances). Along the dry down I detect sweet spices, hints of fruity floral appealing sparks and probably a secret leathery undertone (may be a musk/iris/suede accord soft and warm). The final part of the evolution introduces indeed this musk/iris/incense accord so soft and almost sticky. The dry down (ambery, incensey, musky and with a salty lingering warmth) conjures me the new Eau Sauvage Extreme Intense's final density. Simply stunning, a cologne rehabilitating the infamous ozonic genre by its experimental combination of diverse notes (resinous and semi-oriental counteracting the sharp-ozonic initial ones). Great longevity on my skin.

    03rd February, 2014


    In Black by J del Pozo

    Typical "new generation" glamour creamy potion (somewhat synthetic, floral/cosmetical and velvety) which sounds (smells) at the beginning like a sort of more properly masculine Bvlgari Jasmine Noir's version, I mean something floral and ambery with a dark patchouli, musk and vanilla in the blend. I detect hints of jasmine, tuberose, may be soft iris and violet. There are spices in the mix (probably nutmeg and cinnamon) and possibly hints of ripe fruits (plum, berries??) rounding the soapy/floral aroma. The dry down is even more soapy and balmy but somehow linear, "peaceful" and mild. After a pair of hours the balmy floral aroma (somewhat rosey and with a tuberose type of creaminess) conjures me more than vaguely the less "overshadowed" Secret Obsession by CK wich is less dark and more properly floral/cosmetical (less glamour oriental) in expression. Not bad in the complex (for the lovers of such synthetic androgynous fragrances). Longevity and projection are in the average.
    P.S: the extremely soft musk/iris/vanilla combo is mastering in order to determine the basic smooth consistency over which the fruity/floral accord projects its trendy modernity.

    03rd February, 2014


    Baiana by OPSO

    Baiana by O.P.S.O is such a fantastic, really fantastic surprise. It can be labelled as a sort of new generation Habanita, just I'd say less properly oriental, less complex, with more spicy intoxicating powder and a less developed fruity/floral side. Sometimes thank God the perfumes "retriever" encounters along its run such slightly different scents, some indipendent and evocative stuffs. Baiana is such a type of fragrance, almost unique (at least in the top part), sultry/exotic without to be mellow and balmy. Baiana is substantially a talky fragrance, or better a dry/spicy mélange of dusty/prickly spices, rose, powdery iris, white dusty woods (a talky white starring sandalwood) and well balanced musky/vanilla. Carnal juices a la Kokorico JP Gaultier jump on mind because of a bunch of their nuances. The spices are powerfully exotic since the beginning and over the first spray you can be put upside down by a terrific fist of nutmeg, cinnamon and pink pepper, well combined with cleverly appointed hesperides (structured and balancing till the end) and delicate floral notes. Powdery iris, dusty sandalwood, pink pepper and nutmeg create a perfect link which is the main theme of the olfactory fatigue, en exotic, almost inebriating starry dust so perfectly joined with a sort of woody dustiness providing throughout a woody (sandalwood) undertone to the molecular cloud. A touch of musk combined with resinous carnal amber, balsams and patchouli complete the white potion. There is a minimal but detectable hint of secret classic wetness in the dust throughout (a subtle fluidy angularity provided by citrus, patchouli and probably botanic elements) and a subtle but notable tasty vibe, something half heliotropic and half on the dusty sugar and cocoa side which compels me. We are just a step before the gourmand boundaries (despite the aroma holds on to be dusty/dry) although the final rising woodiness slightly refrains my initial ecstatic enthusiasm. Anyway while the top is literally intoxicating the bottom becomes less terrific but finally more subtle, dark and refined (in this phase the aroma appears less feminine and more balanced towards the masculine side). In this final phase a secret leathery caress keeps colouring the powdery woodiness in my opinion. A beautiful pièce of perfume by an interesting italian niche brand, a fragrance for a joyful, temperamental person of the south of the world, ready to live the life in a challenging way.

    25th January, 2014 (Last Edited: 09th February, 2014)


    White Fire by Tiziana Terenzi

    I'm particularly proud to be one of the first Basenotes reviewers to get a full enthusiastic approach to this wonderful italian niche brand which encloses in its precious gems (extraits of perfumes and mystic Air Therapy candles) a story full of passion for life, for the autenticity of its valours, for the natural elements strenght, the fire in particular (a theme the latter always present in the Tiziana Terenzi various Extrait de Parfum). The fire, with all its hypnotic power and its genuine beauty, is always present in the lives of the creative people behind these artistic creations, connecting effectively their personal stories with all the creation and the intimate soul of their own emotions. White Fire evokes the silence of the snow, its dazzling white turned out even more alive when enjoyed with the warm fire's embrace enveloping your soul. White Fire is simply perfect, superbly balanced, soft, "snowy", sharply comforting and evocative about serene lost (in the far memory) days spent in white mountainous landscapes. The aroma is the one of a clean, comforting and silvery perfume evoking the autenticity of a childish laughter. In my opinion this fragrance performs one of the most beautiful boise jasmine rendition i had the pleasure to face in my personal experience. Jasmine and musk create an olfactory combo absolutely central in the aroma evolution.The chinese jasmine is soon indolic (almost dissonant, barely salty), grassy and "airy", yes something like an icy one (at the beginning) with a sort of milky/soapy hyper feminine and ethereal substance. I suppose hints of not listed orange blossoms are included in the olfactory recipe. The juice is more properly feminine in my humble opinion. A touch of cosmetic soapiness starts to rise up by soon in a sort of Victorian sophisticated general atmosphere conjuring vaguely the Elie Saab's (which is anyway warmer and less natural) musky/soapy rose-jasmine accord. The jasmine is even more such a milky/soapy one also in the central stage, when the realistic lymphatic initial effect barely recedes and a white saldalwood aroma complements a starring indolic-jasmine/musk olfactory backbone (soapy, musky, mild/salty in a finally neutral/soapy way). There is still an airy general atmosphere around the soapy/musky jasmine (the oxygen power enveloping the elements) and the feel is secretly (but minimally) ozonic/iodate in my humble opinion. The aroma is extremely sensual and sophisticated, a sort of airy royal jasmine, slightly art nouveau in style but at same time hyper contemporary and fashionable (slightly mystic and glamour at once). The note of amber is present and is a decidedly refined and almost hyper glamour resinous one. I detect indeed a sort of Alien's musk/sambac-jasmine association but White Fire is less angular/robotic and on the contrary more soapy, carnal, indolic, introvert and authentical than the Ropion/Bruyere's hyper modern creation, it's still icy (i mean airy, in the top) and modern but with a solid root in to a "british style" more classic dreamy tradition. Great duration on my skin while the sillage is not nuclear for sure. The packaging is a rare example of italian neo-baroque art.

    24th January, 2014 (Last Edited: 08th April, 2014)


    Rose Imaginaire by Roger & Gallet

    Lackadaisical well made citric floral. Where is the rose? It is effectively "Imaginaire" since the red berries, citrus and violet/jasmine accord arouses a languid orangy rosey ideal effect almost more realistic than a real "rosey rose". There is a sort of berrish floral dominant vibe around the wearer. The dry down is woody and finally almost soapy (but never overly synthetic) after a citric and fruity/floral first stage. I guess a joyful and temperamental type of woman could succesfully wear this versatile fragrance. Another pleasant aroma from a great inexpensive but even dignified brand .

    24th January, 2014


    Magnetic by Gabriela Sabatini

    Massive, indolic and erotic. Such a fragrance resulting (to many sensitive noses) probably an "overly equipped" and oppressing one while under my humble nose this aroma appears finally carnal and widely intriguing. Lucky to find it stored in a dusty old shop background in south Italy. Magnetic is a musky-oriental Ode to the olfactory note of ylang-ylang or to be more explicative it projects a complex and pungent floral miasm (with an indolic tuberose-lily-jasmine accord joined with a leader and heady ylang-ylang) over a musky/woody oriental base arranged by spicy balsams (a notable cinnamon and cloves presence for sure), oakmoss, musk and probably amber/benzoin. There is a baroque spicy-hesperidic side in the perfume, especially in the top (bergamot, mandarine, orange) which provides to turn the aroma out so articulated, slightly angular, decadent and aristocratic (in particular the intense orangy vibe seems to be joyned with something spicy and plummy, may be hints of apricot or cherries). In the same vein as fragrances a la Diva Ungaro, Magot Etro or may be Roccobarocco by Roccobarocco Magnetic is another olfactory witness of a left back glorious age which on the olfactory sphere was epitomized by "huge" and "dreadful" fragrances full of depth, enigma and articulation. Durable on my skin and with a great projection.

    23rd January, 2014 (Last Edited: 18th September, 2014)


    Edgar by OPSO

    Edgar is a pleasant but too much conventional aromatic new generation fougere in the same vein with scents as Il Profvmo Imprinting, 4711, Askett&English Essential and Eau Sauvage. Fizzy and bracing since the beginning the aroma unveils by soon an herbal/lemony/orangy central accord, a restrained floral spark (an arid violet complementary to cedarwood) and an ambergris/cedarwood virile foundation finally soothed by hints of musk and oakmoss. I detect a dominant bergamot/tangerine accord and probably some petitgrain, mint and verbena aromatic presence. Unfortunately the aroma is rather linear and by soon aromatic, hesperidic and cedary in a stable way. Devoted to tradition.

    23rd January, 2014


    Thé Vert by Roger & Gallet

    Typical green-tea fragrance with an unmistakable tea founded soul which follows after a sour/herbal classic introduction and projects in the air a floral/aqueous atmosphere with a cedary dry down (perfect complement for a traditional citrusy-tea/floral chord). It seems i detect in particular mandarine, yuzu and white flowers in the trail. The herbal (slightly aromatic) presence is plain by soon and its effect is provided not only by the gree tea i suppose (basil?). The cedary dry down elicits a typical "ascetic and meditative" oriental (i mean typically japanese) vibe which is extremely sharp and silent even if not excessively castigatory (since the blend of grapefruit, citrus and intense flowers- in particular lily and cyclamen- provides a lively and optimistic trait). The cedary and tea based (slightly dusty) dry down seems finally to be less angular/aqueous and barely more properly woody and dry. Well made and surprising in longevity on my skin. I still prefer Bulgari Eau Parfumee Au The' Vert and even more the classic Bulgari Pour Homme as tea based juices but if you are on a budget and look for a green-tea floral aroma, well Roger&Gallet The' Vert is your choice.

    19th January, 2014


    Allegradonna by O'Driù

    Allegradonna unveils by soon for us its main theme, namely an heady absinthe/cinnamon combo (by soon orangy, peppery, barely herbal and almost gasseous) which emerges in a couple of minutes from the chaos of a traditional spicy/herbal O'Driu's beginning. I neither "see" the jasmine around in this phase nor "unfortunately" later, neither the jasmine nor effectively the mimosa tea. The main vibe is basically boozy/orangy and somewhat anisic. This spicy/herbal aromatic cinnamon seems to last longly and to retain along the time its almost one-dimensional pungent intensity. The first (probably unique) change i detect half an hour later the first dab is a spicy prickliness faint subsidence and a progressive boise silkier (almost balmy) fluidy advancement. This fluid is effectively slightly resinous and barely balmy. The mossy/herbal wormwood centered spiciness is anyway at all mastering, it projects a sort of pungent, really intense and penetrating vibe till the final expiration and i suppose some hints of cumin enjance the feel. The powerful spicy cinnamon subsides any further element (floral in primis) and the aroma keeps on to be an orangy/anisic linear and simplistic cinnamon till the final breath. Frankly a pleasant but un-sophisticated and un-classy juice which anyway discloses a certain dose of temperamental optimism and dynamism around. Tasty and lingering, could it be enough? Not for sure in my opinion since is like the top does not evolve towards something less boisterous but more subtle and articulated, is like the aroma remains incomplete and almost crude (I would say...wild). Great longevity and more than decent projection.

    17th January, 2014


    Grain de Soleil by Fragonard

    Grain de Soleil is a classic floral oriental in which is easily detectable a traditional languid rose/jasmine accord, where the note of amber is in my opinion just accessorial (just minimally operating its resinous support) and the main accord is represented by a powdery (almost gasseous) incense/vanilla/powdery iris combo at the end overly warm and sweety, almost invading the gourmand genre boundaries. The incense is more dusty/gasseous and sweetish than properly resinous and i find the aroma finally spicy/sugary but not sufficiently structured. I detect in here more similarities with the quoted Hypnotic Poison (or probably Cashmere Chopard and Parah) than properly with the more carnal Ambre Narguille despite Grain the Soleil does not project effectively an almondy/coconutty feel a la H. Poison. Warm and comforting but not elevated and for real sophisticated. To be worn just in the frost of the Saint Petersburg's winter night.

    16th January, 2014


    Oud Imperial by Perris Monte Carlo

    The first blast conjures me immediately the By Kilian Pure Oud's woodsy/rubbery/boozy/leathery vintage articulation (just with less smokiness) and a tad of the by Montale Leather Oud's leathery/resinous combination as indeed I detect by soon a concentrate of exotic spices (cardamom, pepper and saffron are mastering, the latter in particular), complex woodsiness (musks, barks, oakmoss, may be cypriol and berries), woody agarwood resin, fur, hints of animalic patterns and a minimal touch of booziness (probably the effect is aroused by the combination of alcohol, luxurious hesperides, sweet spices and oud). There is soon a marvellous velvety leathery vibe rising up from the background abysses and this is the main olfactory trait of this resinous potion. The aroma becomes even more leathery and aromatic (spicy) along the trip with that typical leather/musk/berries/sweet spices undertone. A touch of benzoin or may be myrrh is finally appointed to soothen the elements i suppose. The final aroma is warm, voluptuous, woody/spicy and boise. This fragrance is moody, slightly moldy/vintage and poetic, an introvert potion for souls in loneliness. A marvellous take on the oud/leather theme for us.

    15th January, 2014


    Omega by Mendittorosa

    Omega strikes soon for its incredibly smooth, resinous and musky/vanillic woodiness. The woody agarwood resin soon projects its feel in the air (and this is soon evident) but any trace of medicinal and astringent aggressive spark is flying around as the woodiness appears soon encompassed by a warm embrace of balsams (mostly vanilla), resins and mossy labdanum in a way an uncompromising spicy sweet softness envelops elements and senses in a sort of chill out bliss. The softness is really spicy and projects by soon a deep fruity/floral aura with a notable spicy (i suppose cinnamon and nutmeg) iris-violet combo in the air. I detect mostly iris and violets over several further floral (may be fruity) elements in a really pleasant floral velvety musky/powder effect (typically iris featured). A sort of Puredistance M without the leather and the woody/animalic final complicacy jumps on mind but Omega is more smooth, vanillic, iris centered, less articulated and more florally intense (the intensity from violet/iris offers a different perception than a softer, more delicate, almost lemony rosey touch). The dry down is enveloping but overly linear in its creamy/spicy dominant vanilla. Longevity and projection are in the average on my skin.

    14th January, 2014 (Last Edited: 16th January, 2014)


    Musk Extrême by Perris Monte Carlo

    This fragrance is basically an extremely muskey and soapy white musk with all its powdery and soapy/orangy ("laundry/neutral") vibe (reinforced by the sharp flowers implementation in association with hesperides and balsams). The aroma is clean and rosey with a plain balmy orangy/lemony temperament and a subtle floral spark rising up at distance. Extremely pleasant and deep (but "polished" and radiant, without any trace of mouldy dirtiness or sticky mossy woodsiness). The note of iris provides and extremely smooth powdery vibe which finally morphs towards a substance somewhat balmy (with a sort of musky bath/shower foam type of aroma) because of the interaction between balsams, musk and hesperides. Really comforting and pleasant but slightly one-dimensional yet not fully textured and classy in my opinion.

    13th January, 2014


    Id by Mendittorosa

    Mendittorosa ID is what you do not expect to find out, namely an amazing unexpected (but familiar) resinous/suede floral-musky fragrance with texture and "solidity". It is indeed a nuanced new generation floral/chypre which can easily vaunt right now the epithet of luxurious classic fragrance. The aroma is soon luxuriant and boozy/floral (in perception) indeed, ideally in the middle between a Mark Buxton's creation (a bit Black Angel jumps on mind), a "combined" incensey/leathery Duchaufour's recipe or may be a leather boise aroma a la Ramon Monegal (Mon Cuir comes to mind despite it is not so floral). It seems in this phase to detect hint of magnolia (not listed). Some nuances conjure me up also something slightly close to an ideal blend between Cuir de Lancome, Aedes de Venustas and Cuir Velours Goodsir. The violet/jasmine nuanced spicy-leathery combo is soon recognizable and deep as well as a sort of amber/resins spicy (sweet spices as cinnamon) olfactory "basement" tending along the time to become musky and softer. The aroma is wet, aromatic (initially almost minty), musky and "fragrant" since the beginning and projects a plain resinous floral vibe. A powdery/leathery stickiness (vaguely lip stick type) from the iris in association with hints of leather (and may be olibanum) keeps to emerge along the time (with a sort of viney undertone proper to some combined- with leather- resins) as soon as a musky boise (notable gummy/mossy labdanum) dry down nails down its substance. The note of oudh is present as a ghost, it's never medicinal but throughout resinous and almost rubbery. There is a touch of ambery dirtiness in the final outcome. A far superior one than Mendittorosa Alfa this is a mysterious concoction i'm sure will be able to carve out a place among the more renowned pillars of the olfactory classicism. Far better (in comparison with Alfa) longevity on my skin.

    P.S: have to say i really appreciate this ambery/resinous, floral and slightly leathery aroma. The dry down (after three or four hours of evolution) becomes dark and leathery and one favorite of mine jumps finally on mind: Costume National Scent Intense (synthetic amber, patchouli, floral notes-jasmine in common, woods, resinous notes, suede), yes the aroma becomes indeed velvety and slightly leathery in a barely woody/smokey way, just i find Scent Intense more synthetically glamour, more smokey/incensey, "carnal" and powerful. ID is more subtle, natural, musky, may be more floral/aromatic and complicated. This fragrance counts a new fan.

    12th January, 2014


    Alfa by Mendittorosa

    Mendittorosa is a new italian niche brand making its debut with an interesting trilogy of "odors" (according with them) which deserve all the fair attention. Alfa is the first of the trilogy and it paints over the olfactory path a really temperamental type of modern woman. This fragrance is basically a sensual floral musk with an earthy/resinous (incensey) temperament. The aroma is uncompromisingly feminine. The note of aoud (an incense/oud) is soon emerging but it is not aggressive or medicinal but potently earthy, herbal and stout as flanked by a soon recognizable fist of milky radiant saffron in a pleasant game of contrasts. The lacteous saffron (faint in its performance) encounters the earthy resin in a sort of floral rendez-vous which projects an extremely opaque, fluidy and woody (in a dry way) floral/musky spark in the air. The background is such a diaphanous one and indeed the oud is not at all dark and massive but turns finally out earthy, floral, sharp and musky in an almost fluidy/watery way. In this final phase the earthy/incensey fluidy temperament appears sheer and shadowy in all its woodiness, carnal muskiness and floral sophistication. I have to say that the floral presence (may be rose-jasmine) appears finally more grassy/musky than properly floral, namely since the beginning I note the sophisticated floral spark but i "see" it earthy/grassy and lymphatic more than properly related to floral leaves. Unfortunately the longevity is absolutely faint on my skin (frankly too much and I hope it depends just by the interaction with my skin), the aroma lasts less than two hours before completely fading in the forgetfulness.

    11th January, 2014


    Ambre Gris by Perris Monte Carlo

    A royal ambergris for us, dry/powdery but full of luxurious nuances from the aristocratic top to the diaphanous dry down. As well as for Essence de Patchouli even in this case the Perris Montecarlo's performes manage to create a solid musky-landanum/rose/geranium/hesperides olfactory "platform" to play as noble central "flexible" structure to project a dominant luxuriant element which in this case is a chypre (cedary) high quality ambergris while in the previous concoction it was a powdery/musky patchouli. Both the fragrances are finally extremely subtle, musky/powdery (almost talky/eliotropic/almondy) and fluctuating by a valzer of "neoclassic" nuances. Ambre Gris starts soon "baroquely" with a ballet of utterly refined floral notes (rose-geranium absolutely evident), a regal bergamot/orange co-operation, a touch of patchouli and musks in order to easily morph in to a delicious powdery/boise amber-vanilla combo able to convey through the ages several talky/rosey and translucent childish memories as well as a white winged horse flying through the paths of memory. Extremely lush dry unisex amber slightly leaning over a sophisticated and romantic feminine "yard". Not a great projection on me but a durable stuff in all its otherworldly volatility.

    10th January, 2014


    Essence de Patchouli by Perris Monte Carlo

    This musky articulated patchouli enchanted me by soon in a couple of minutes, jumping immediately over the top levels of my ideal luxurious patchouli based fragrances dreamy parade (despite this fragrance smells on my skin pratically identical to the previous Alyssa Ashley's Essence de Patchouli). The high quality musk-labdanum-powdery iris olfactory association manages to create a soft shelter encompassing one of the most captivating rosey/boise Patchoili of the contemporary olfactory panorama. The main note morphs down finally smooth, naïf, pure and musky/chypre over a first luxuriant stage in which the royal element appears full of decadent/baroque "cristal" nuances provided by a concert of hesperides (golden bergamot and orange), exotic mild spices, hints of almost mentholated woodsy resins, plus rosewood, probably cedarwood, ethereal rose and aristocratic geranium. I suppose minimal hints of balancing dry aromatic herbs up hold steady a sense of general (musky) mildness preventing the aroma to turn finally out overly rich, warm or heavy (it happens also due the absence of vanilla or animalic notes- just a touch of amber?). The Essence de Patchouli's dry down is slightly talky/eliotropic but still in a structured, mossy and textured/spicy way. The final aroma is an airy dry potion (emanating subtle rosey nuances) actually far from the syrupy, leathery of animalic types of patchouli around and more in line with such dry and musky patchouli out there a la Villoresi or Santa Maria Novella (with vague Heritage EdT's nuances and a tad of the Etro's landmark dry/eliotropic exoticism). Absolutely velvety and silky in its final musky wake ideally conjuring Sultan Palaces and silky fairy roads. Unisex and full bodied in longevity and sillage.

    09th January, 2014 (Last Edited: 30th May, 2014)


    Bois d'Oud by Perris Monte Carlo

    So luxurious, stormy, spicy/fruity and intoxicating in its first explosion but in a while so silky, slightly powdery, delicately rubbery (almost as a golden musky/resinous suede). Bois d'Oud is by soon intriguing under my nose. I detect a sort of secret (Alyssa Ashley's trademark type of) barely "Esoteric", hyper glamour, stellar, "spicy/anisic/talky/aldehydic/fruity-floral/almost minty" main accord in the storm. The latter is provided by a tornado of diverse elements by soon interacting each other in an armonic olfactory orchestra as luxurious hesperides, mellow plummy/orangy fruits, sambac jasmine, exotic sweet spices and powdery iris (the latter in its heady and mastering role). By soon the spicy/fruity drama is encompassed and comforted by a soothing accord of mossy galbanum, smooth balsams, animalic resins and probably rubbery/incensey suede. The influencing iris provides hints of floral powder perfectly integrated with musks, star anise and suede. A touch of olibanum or just powdery iris, woodsy resins and velvety suede? Probably it's the note of agarwood (as linked with iris and star anise) which provides a sort of suede/rubber (vaguely boots polish type of) boise vibe around. The sambac jasmine affords an incredibly glamour "icy" spark in the air, as well as combined with musky amber, anise, talky iris and may be aldehydes. Actually in conclusion a velvety rubbery suede type of vibe emerges from the storm with all its exotic silkiness. A dark patchouli provides structure and stableness for all the general oriental mélange. What the fragrance smells like? Actually some key words to spot the main tamperament could be Cuir Velours, Cuir Ottoman and Alyssa Ashley Esoteric (partially Alyssa Ashley Oud Pour Lui); the juice combines in a unique aroma several facets of the previous scents in a way you can detect a suede/mossy/resinous/powdery/boise base projecting a sophisticated and aldehydic/anisic sambac jasmine/star anise sparkling combo (with a plummy/orangy vibe) in the air.
    PS. In the dry down the vanilla emerges and tames a bit the agarwood spicy "gassiness". The agarwood resin smells slightly synthetic and some people can demur it but i add that this element does not understate the extreme sophistication of the olfactory performance and can't veil in any way the beauty of its glamour modernity.

    08th January, 2014


    Red Jeans by Versace

    Red Jeans is a balanced, classy and well appointed fruity/floral radiant soapy chypre and the horrible packaging (as well as the teen/easy name itself) does not do justice to this olfactory italian beauty. Utterly sexy, elegant and dynamic it starts with a fruity blackcurrant/peach/apricot carnal chord which morphs, through a sexy floral (mostly rosey, almost "neutral") heart, in to a classic musky/mossy/ woody chypre dry down slightly (minimally) honeyed, "laundry", with a "white/yellow" powdery cool radiancy and almost restrained. The rose/ylang-ylang/blackcurrant/honey/musk accord is extremely refined and provides the trademark floral/ fruity distinguished soapiness. Perfectly appointed the level of (measured) sweetness. Sophisticated in to an honeyed soapy way, clean and slightly mysterious.

    07th January, 2014


    Luci Ed Ombre by Masque

    Interesting Meo Fusciuni (Giuseppe Imprezzabile)'s olfactory performance appointed for Masque Milano. I like Masque Luci ed Ombre since, despite its aroma is not for sure a particularly original stuff, the fragrance is well made, textured and classy. I note by soon the tuberose, so clear also without raking the list of notes and you can feel by soon an indolic and almost aqueous floral ambience surrounded and encompassed by a fresh and fluidy frankincense/ginger combo which represents the central theme of the olfactory fatigue. The name "Luci ed Ombre" means lights and shadows and it fairly reproduces the perfumed atmosphere aroused around by this aroma, as you feel indeed immediately something floral and fresh that is anyway somehow immediately surrounded by a mossy/incensey more "veiled" aura that is slightly silent and ascetic. I suppose hints of gardenia are also included in the recipe since I feel (with all the plain differences) a tuberose/jasmine/gardenia typical aura slightly conjuring (in part) scents as Organza and Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia. The oakmoss/olibanum combo, initially more dry and translucent, keeps along the trip to turn out slightly denser and more resinous (as well as the ginger recedes) and in this phase i detect something secretly dirty/indolic in the air, as well as an hidden animalic (or anyway leathery) magic touch encounters the increasingly indolic jasmine/tuberose in order to provide a touch of marvellous dissonance for us. Probably the olibanum elicits this spark as embraced by a really musky oakmoss. Anyway i suppose hints of suede are combined in the recipe since the dry down is typically velvety as well as for a suede caress. The aroma anyway holds on to be averagely dry (or better never overly sticky or mellow) and the dry down becomes at distance nothing than a sophisticated floral chypre of new generation with a woody substance (cedarwood/patchouli) and a touch of resinous and mystery.

    05th January, 2014 (Last Edited: 15th January, 2014)


    Place Vendôme by Boucheron

    The main trait is aroused by a jasmine/orange accord (which is spicy and probably flanked by minimal hints of red berries) standing over an honeyed oriental base (synthetic benzoin, musk and may be vanilla). The aroma is unoriginal, pungent at the beginning and almost cloying at the end (may be slightly one-dimensional too and anyway useless), it plays beyond the classic Boucheron's style as it is more leaning over a mass appealing contemporary fruity/oriental side (slightly pungent, fruity and oppressing as many others of the same category). Many aromas jump on mind with all the plain differences as a tad of Le Petit Robe Noir (which is worse than PV and comes in mind because of its similar oppressing oriental fruity vibe), Elie Saab (more rosey/honeyed/orangy and less spicy fruity and floral) and others as vaguely Lola by Jacobs for instance and 212 Summer by Carolina Herrera. I will go further for sure.

    05th January, 2014


    Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau by Guerlain

    Part of the original Shalimar's and the Parfum Initial's final complexity is here alive and alluring but for a long part of the development the aroma appears more fizzy (due to a really heady grapefruit combined with the classic Guerlain's hesperides), slightly lemony and with a more dynamic (more fluidy) twist. Yes, less powdery and less strong over the powdery/patchouli side while a rose/iris combo is heady, versatile and joyful despite the aroma also includes a notable amount of final vanilla (vanilla more than dirty amber for sure). L'Eau is closer to the original Shalimar than to Parfum Initial and can easily be ranked as a lighter Shalimar's version with more grapefruit/citrus and a softer dry down (in which the notable amount of Shalimar's trademark animalic amber is replaced by an "easier" and less massive vanilla. I appreciate this new flanker but recommend everybody deflecting towards the wonderful Parfum Initial.

    05th January, 2014


    Adidas Team / Team Force by Adidas

    Extremely generic sporty dynamic juice with an aromatic (almost minty) grapefruit/orange prominent beginning, a floral (jasmine) heart and a final woody ambergris dry down. Any trace of tobacco or smokiness, just an ordinary gym (shower-foam) smell nice as after shower deodorant. Not particularly synthetic but frankly utterly useless.

    04th January, 2014


    Fiorisia by Profumi del Forte

    I sincerely appreciate I Profumi del Forte but Fiorisia unfortunately appears by soon (together with Very Estee by E.Lauder, Pleasures, J'Adore, Tommy Girl and dozens others) as a drop in the ocean of the fruity/floral creations with a cedary and musky base. Effectively the beginning is deep, slightly citrusy, aqueous, floral and refreshing in a realistic way as to walk in a dreamy green landscape full of streams, magic ponds, faeries and funny little creatures. In a while the carnation/jasmine/aquatic flowers accord provides an extra dry support to the basic (slightly lemony) fruity crispiness while the woodsy base hardly soothens the elements supporting a new nuances emersion. I still feel sharp florals and musky cedarwood with an intense fruity bitterness (just finally hints of faint soapiness which is anyway subtle and refined). Not bad but frankly a bit far from an idea of appeal.

    02nd January, 2014


    Frescoamaro by Profumi del Forte

    A first touch on my skin and my flashback is for the classic and marvellous Nino Cerruti by Cerruti (but with a more citrus/grass/fruity presence in here and a less floral welcome i suppose). It is just an illusion (i notice by soon) anyway since Nino Cerruti is a far more complex and elevated concoction (and finally the olfactory resemblance is probably much more with 1881 than with NC Classic). Frescoamaro means fresh and bitter at once and effectively i have to say that freshness and sourness ( i would not properly talk about bitterness) are lingering throughout in the blend (which anyway plays also in different ways a longly present game of contrasts). The first approach is indeed deeply indolic and undisputably stressed over the melon/grapefruit/cucumber/citrus side in a way being at once weirdly sharp but paradoxically at once mostly dense on a fruity/vegetal path, almost sour and "fat" at the same time (i write "fat" to mean nearly edible and musky/fleshy) as for a carnal/botanical game of contrasts. The cucumber/aromatic-minty herbs/floral leaves chord provides en incredibly vegetal aura around indeed while the note of gin enhances a "melancholic" and alcoholic (grassy, mossy, fruity/floral and in a while even woody) intensity. The violet presence is easily notable and provides a typical lymphatic floral/grassy/earthy moody sharpness to the whole composition which has turned out in the meanwhile even more "meaty" and juicy. The muskiness (a mossy and coniferous aroma from the forest) in the meanwhile keeps to rise up from the back and to impose itself as a succeeding main theme supporting the final floral rose/osmanthus (almost neutral) wave in the air. This floral evolution is not particularly discernible or luxurious and do not provide a particularly sophisticated floral spark in the air to adorn the linear mossy woodiness. The dry down pushes indeed the button over the woody/mossy/musky side retaining in a linear way the fruity/floral alcoholic wave. What does this dry down smell like? Well, it smells like a sort of alcoholic and humid vegetal galbanum (a galbanum/labdanum mossy aroma) with a moody (finally neutral/soapy) and one dimensional floral feel. A finally "steady" composition from I Profumi del Forte possibly appreciable by the lovers of such type of realistic, ambiental and indolic natural fruity/floral. Finally the aroma turns out neither bitter nor fresh but barely warm, more virile and with a touch of mossy/floral soapiness. Good longevity.

    01st January, 2014 (Last Edited: 06th May, 2014)


    Infusion d'Homme by Prada

    A straight forward soapy fragrance with a lipstick undertone, an initial evanescent citrusy crispiness (mostly orangy) and a final mossy soapy dry down. Shockingly soapy to be a marketed fragrance. It possesses an incensey vibe anything but dusty or liturgical. The olibanum performs just in order to support and enhance the neutral soapiness of the almost milky balsams. The note of iris is mossy but almost entirely "lipstick bodied". A scent must aim to possess structure and texture, sometimes the high quality "raw materials" and the extreme skillfulness in the balance and subtleness pursuit by the master perfumer provides a sort of surprising silkiness and the aroma waves in the air as an heavenly cloud; all of it is not going on in this case as the Infusion d'Homme's aroma is just soapy synthetic despite never in a disturbing way. Your skin just smells "neutral" as after a bath with a musk/iris shampoing pour le corps, nothing else. The bath foam effect is well performed indeed.

    31st December, 2013


    Rem by Réminiscence

    Rem is a pleasant floral/aquatic, well balanced and never cloying. The fragrance was launched in the same year Profvmum Roma was up to produce the boring (and disturbing) Aqua di Sale which is taking the world by storm in the mediocre country of Italy (and not just there). I don't know exactly which of the two scents was introduced before since are really close eachother (despite i prefer far more the Reminiscence'one) and it would be interesting to know if one of the brands took a "touch of inspiration" by the second one (you would be induced to suppose about some industrial espionage). All that fuss and we have this pleasant (barely floral and more subtle) little "un-marketed" creation which smells almost identical to the Profumum's one but at half of the price and with a far more appreciable consistence (try also Fiore dell'Onda by L'Erbolario). Another fragrance so close to Rem is Pioggia Salata by il Profvmo, which smells anyway more realistically marine than Acqua di Sale. Rem is breezy and balmy/marine, salty in a subtle way, elegant and floral. A wonderful fenugreek provides the airy/aromatic effect that in Aqua di Sale the maître parfumeur hardly tried to perform by a substantially "subsided" (by the synthetic balsams) myrtle. The balsams are perfectly dosed. The dry down is musky and pleasantly balmy/salty. The aroma you detect is "chill out", delicately rosey, refined and almost realistic. I like it despite this is not exactly my olfactory field.

    31st December, 2013


    Gincense by Oliver & Co.

    Gincense plays the game of contrasts combining in its recipe several elements hardly associable. It opens (in an utterly compelling way) with a really humid, mineral, slightly camphor veined, partially culinary, herbal/rooty (i feel a sort of rosemary/oregano/orris root/juniper berries feel) and slightly fizzy rush of aromatic herbs, splashing spices (probably ginger, artemisia, may be fennel and laurel together give out this effect) and undistinguished floral leaves. The latter project in the central phase a more herbal/rooty than properly floral effect, together with something slightly medicinal almost disinfectant in perception may be produced by the yet emerging frankincense in its interaction with spices infusion and rising marine notes. The herbal/lymphatic marine vibe is anyway really dominant in the central far less interesting phase. I start indeed to detect a salty vegetal diffused temperament which is probably the main theme of the experimental aroma as flanked by a liquid incensey "dust" which gradually fades and leaves the stage to a salty/marine (oregano "flavoured") faint woodiness (olibanum veined) anything but dense or sacramental. In this phase the aroma is slightly linear and less interesting for sure. A decent experimental marine concoction with a good duration and a medium sillage.

    30th December, 2013 (Last Edited: 08th January, 2014)


    Cuir Velours by Naomi Goodsir

    Cuir Velours strikes me immediately for its visible and perceivable stickiness on the skin. The aroma does not perform a complicated evolution appearing by soon softly leathery, well rounded (never properly boozy alcoholic type) and mossy, with a sort of apricot/iris/leather ostensible balmy effect (with more than vague Cuir Ottoman's brighter nuances). I immediately understand that the apparent "fruity iris" vibe is nothing than an illusory effect (typical) elicited by the spicy olibanum interaction with the note of leather as rounded by a soft sweet tobacco and the effect is incredibly comforting, "spongy" and almost culinary (i mean yummy as taste) for a while. There is a secondary (minimal) woody approach in the air while the booziness is never dominant (neither in the first five minutes of the evolution). The aroma is surely comforting and "tobacco perfumed" but never properly warm since a surprising cleverly modulated "airy" immortelle (as joined with the "musks") provides projection and hints of more typically aromatic woodsiness. I detect a subtle fruity vibe (probably just apparent, may be not) with that apricot type of aroma some talk about. The tobacco/rhum combo is magistrally dosed just in order to civilize (with hints of mild softness never outside the fences) the stout (and usually "problematic") leather/incense couple. All i detect after a bit is a really smooth mossy/musky (galbanum mastered) aroma with a touch of "forest aromatic atmosphere", a silent peachy olibanum and a leathery silkiness (an high quality massive velvety suede feel more than properly strong leather). I detect a vague C for Men Clive Christian olibanum/suede velvety fruitiness but without all that floral/woody spiciness. A great take of the incense-olibanum theme but with a balmy/boise twist. Duration over the average on me. Thumbs up.

    30th December, 2013

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