Another super chic Ex Nihilo's piece of modern perfume-art, a scent waving throughout in the middle between traditional classic elegance and contemporary minimalistic glamour, angular (kind of simil-indolic) floral brightness and visceral dark-oriental synthetic carnality. Actually in my humble experience Ex Nihilo is dancing on the top levels of that contemporary neo-classic synth perfumery with a new modern-chic coeval inclination. Floral freshly radiant brightness and dark/oriental smooth-velvety enigma coexist in this provocative formula. The name itself (Sweet Morphine) clearly embodies and unfolds this inherent ambivalence (the romantic and translucent "rosey-dreamy" on the side of the more obscure "erotic"). Especially in the top you can experience a juxtaposition between floral angularity (typical of such florals like lilac or peony) and superb woody-floral oriental silkiness (kind of porous and spongy due to an addictive melange of musk, smooth iris absolute, soft vetiver, a tad of suede, woods and yummy well calibrated vanilla). A destabilizing floral conundrum. On this "mature" stage you can catch vague connections with smooth iris-veined dry downs like the ones we get in scents as Laboratorio Olfattivo Daimiris, Dior Cuir Cannage, Heeley Iris de Nuit or Parfumerie Generale Cuir d'Iris (each one of the previous taken for several of their characteristics). Initial bergamot, musks and woods imprint classic chypre structure rooting down (as usual for Ex Nihilo) an olfactory "basement" for a following modern-chic evolution. Iris, complemented by a mesmerizing smooth vetiver (like in the middle of a Dioresque combo), provides enigma and "pathos" to the whole floral composition, turning finally the floral radiancy out in terms of elusive silky mistiness and warm woody-floral carnality. Finally I catch on skin hints of vetiver's saltiness, really evident along the dry down. Dry down ( combining classic and contemporary in a pretty new interpretation) is the top of neo-classic silky sensuality, a dark waving floral-smooth mantle making a special woman to stand out among dozens and dozens. Class, wisdom in perfumery and super glamour modern interpretion.
26th July, 2016 (last edited: 28th July, 2016)
Basically the same synth creamy-earthy-powdery (initially intoxicating) mélange of neroli, cinnamon, patchouli, spicy-amber and rose but in here there is a spicy-leathery darker and vaguely more "assertive" (woody-floral-leathery) side of the moon (jumping finally on the stage in the "long tail dry down"). Probably piquant spices (cardamom in particular), dark woods and a moody leather-iris accord provide this fragrance with a (less "brash" but) probably classier and more mature final vibe (kind of slightly moody, barely fluidy-aromatic and saturnine). The minty-creamy-angular initial "splash" is barely subdued. A quite good fragrance (in the synthetic glamour-chic contemporary range), seriously guys. Lot of pepper and misty spices, hints of earthiness and leather for a more mature "clients' target". Dry down is slightly woodier, more leathery and restrained. A bold and sexy (frankly not intenser on my skin) One Million's "reformulation" from Paco Rabanne. Recommended over the "basic version". Abysmal "boor" bottle.
24th July, 2016 (last edited: 25th July, 2016)
Yes, I (partially) detect the Royal Oud's reference; this fragrance is ideally like an infant coming out from a Creed Royal Oud/Ted Lapidus Black Soul's love story. Nothing new under the sun.
Ex Nihilo Jasmine Fauve is all about "pulsating" neutral-soapy french mannerism (as a new generation "polished" drier Ysatis), an extremely sophisticated take on a synthetic floral-musky-leathery airy accord. The floral accord is soapy-chic, vaguely robotic and anything but dirty or indolic. Jasmine and tuberose support the mastering lily of the valley (angular and edgy) in a quite vibrant humid floral Can-can. A self-confident super unreachable parisian lady on her 30's jumps ideally on mind with her paralyzing hypnotic smile and the molecular aroma of moisturizing soaps, florals and pheromonal sweat. A narcotic organic poison to die for. Leather is properly like a sort of languid soapy suedish twist (actually I get more musk and soapy ambroxan than suede) while the floral bouquet is variegated, changeful and vibrant (lily of the valley more than jasmine and tuberose under my psychotic nose). Lily is kind of aqueous, angular and breezy like a typical peony's vibe straight from a transparent pond of that enchanted forest. Tuberose comes up along the way and it's so well calibrated and restrained that I end up to love in it a spark that I tend to dislike elsewhere in perfumery when it sprouts out in to something creamy and visceral. The atmosphere is surely peppery, fluidy and kind of orangy. This juice unfolds (in a cleaner/lighter more modern way) that typically classic parisian floral-musky-chypre vibe that we catch as well in several further creations from the same brand (Fleur Narcotique, Love Shot to quote two) and that epitomizes a huge repertoire of french classy grandeur. There is something musky-aqueous-cosmetic in its appeal waving in the air in a so soapy, balmy hyper floral way. I catch as well a glamour-chic touch of "alien" vibe a la Thierry Mugler in the dry down (being anyway this yet modern Ex Nihilo's more firmly anchored in to a classic french "olfactory legacy"). At the end of the trip this bright and "on steroids" valzer of tuberose, lily, probably peony and jasmine merges its substance in to a destabilizing soapy-suedish hellish/animalic milky way of prickly ambroxan and ostensibly organic sweaty molecules in order drive you crazy down a languid orgasmic groovy alley. A perturbing musky-soapy-neutral olfactive sloping groud which will spin your senses all around till peace of mind.
An earthy floral-green accord focused on a basic tea-like note supporting a massive floral bouquet and a dark-mossy greenness. The juice is rich but relatively light and easy to wear. I detect something kind of secretly fruity (simil red berrish) in the background (but may be it's the violet-blackcurrant combination to provide this illusion) while ylang-ylang provides that sophisticated sensuous feminine spark which is typical of many old floral-chypre of the glorious past. Yes, I agree with Foetidus, this scent is interesting despite not properly intriguing. The floral-tea (jasmine-tea in particular) main accord unfolds a vibe remotely connectable to the one mastering Costume National Scent but while the latter has a modern minimal ambery structure Tribu' by Benetton is inspired by classicism and old-school mossy-chypre (in here fruitiness, patchouli's earthiness, a massive floral presence and the basic woodiness conjure me vaguely the main combination of elements I've encountered in the fruitier Cacharel Eden). Really a lovely classic mossy-floral, unfortunately discontinued.
As a Crabtree&Evelyn's worshipper I have to say I'm slightly disappointed by this relatively new "pseudo-vegetal" eau de cologne. Old Windsor Eau de Cologne is more than pleasant (especially in the top) but frankly overly vague, unrealistic and undetermined. Opening is traditionally cologney and apparently green since I get mostly neroli, bergamot, lavender and verbena (in tunes with many 4711, Guerlain, Acqua di Parma classic, Hermes and God knows what else), overall enveloped by a sort of musky-green slightly bitter (in undertone) cloud. Aromatic, decidedly green and kind of botanic as a wonderful enchanted green hidden microcosm. I appreciate the general greenness which anyway lacks substantially a real vibrant energy, complexity, realistic substance and a solid "strenght of sensorial involvement". Going on down for the aromatic way I get a sort of soapy (almost creamy) lighter and lighter musky woodiness with hints of saltiness (which I'm unable- because of the general scent's vagueness on my skin- to know whether is afforted by a vetiver's type of woodiness or by a vague ozonic addition- or either). Dry down is ghostly on my skin since the "attached to skin" juice fades definitely in not more than fifty minutes. A really elegant bottle for a barely mediocre anonymous performance.
13th July, 2016 (last edited: 14th July, 2016)
Finally I stumble on this supposedly (but I can't say effectively) unique piece of Unum's alchemic experiment (actually to deal with raw materials in order to appoint an original oriental-fougere -namely one of the most hardly achievable genre- is nowadays indeed always an hard, really hard, challenge). If Lavs was the classical rendition of the house's spiritual (material and conceptual) background (and Opus 1144 an homage to a neo-classic and neo-gothic alchemical resinous concept of esoteric oriental) Ennui Noir is the real Unum's jump in modern perfumery (materialistic, profane and mondane), a new metropolitan-glamour Unum's test of (semi-synthetic) modernity. Lavs is a sepulchral place of silence and cogitation while Ennui Noir is a "new-yorker clubbing night tour", a piece of ephemeral trendy contemporary olfactory sophistication. This is a charming chic-smooth fragrance, guys, something I'd define alluring (in to a modernely synthetic patinated vest, so distant from the vibrant and somewhat "indie-wild" consistency of a part of hardcore naturalistic niche). Well, I'm quite impressed with the modern-chic subtle refinement of this speculative creation. Dealing with this experimental italian niche workshop-maison (I see now) we can indeed wave spaciously from the conservative liturgic tradition (Lavs) to a glamour-chic urban new-age creation, passing through a neo-classic goth/oriental adventure..let's say for instance... a la Maria Candida Gentile (Opus 1144). Yes, I think that scents a la Dior Homme Intense, Eau Sauvage Extreme & Parfum (these two in particular), D&G The One for Men, Michael Kors for Men or Valentino Uomo (successfully hanging out along the market's milky way) could have been (each of them for several of its peculiarities, conceptually or effectively) a secret source of inspiration for "Sorcinelli and the gang", people surely merged in to sacramental but even more humanly sensitive to the power of market (as well as to luxury of fashion and the clinking of coins). Yes,...market..., this is not blasphemy, market could also mean for instance stroke of genius (as for Dior Homme Parfum or Lidge), so Unum Ennui Noir could imo seriously wave around the current market as a new classy-chic "hyper modern lounge metro-beast". This juice is actually minimal, silky, fashion, hand-made tailoring's elegance inspiring and kind of hight urban class's conjuring. Ennui Noir could aromatically seal your success in the most "trendy-posh" London's club, this is sure. Opening is wet and by soon silky by soft suede. Lavender is perfectly blended with suede, silky patchouly, fresh-exotic vetiver and something musky-vanillic-ostensibly chocolatey in order to "afford" a delicious example of velvety classy silkiness (smooth and musky-gourmandish). It seems as well to detect a cool leather-tobacco's accord a la Personal Edition Bruce Willis while dry eliotrope genially enriches the blend with its almost talky sense of starry-sugary-ambery fern-like's dust. The magnificent lavender-patchouli-woods-vanilla-spicy suede accord conjures me the similar one I've previously admired in scents a la Geo F. Trumper Sandalwood Cologne (more floral and classic but contemporary at same time). Having said that, I'm delighted by the somewhat (if not unique) special substance (approach and smell) of this modern fragrance which finally performs a touch of dry-sugary-amberish spark (really minimal) perfectly connected to semi-gourmand suede, aromatic patterns and silky woods. Yes, I see a remote reference to Caron Pour Un Homme which is anyway more focused on a classic (and frankly more starry) lavender in its languid connection to "liquid greenness", warm muskiness and soft vanilla. Ennui Noir is synthetically modern (synth is necessary for such super glamour type of scents) but the synthetic element is in here conjugated in to a symphonic blend of quality ingredients and italian "wisdom about minimalistic class and sense of balance". Dry down is so smooth (musky-resinous woodiness, "spongy" vetiver), so pleasantly rooted over a game of fresh (vetiver-lavender)-warm (vanilla- cedary cocoa) contrasts to be in tunes with the most classy-chic ambience you could dare to spend a night inside. I'm seriously thinking to purchase this delicious juice in order to preciously embellish my "go for the night out" collection of sensual perfumed weapons.
08th July, 2016 (last edited: 10th July, 2016)
One of the most sugary blast of helter skelter waving yummy aromas ever tried. Candied, powdery, almondy and eliotropic. Star anise introduces the aroma with its piquant-cool aromatics, the note of jasmine smells artificially like something honeyed like pollen, ylang-ylang provided an exotic-chic spark while dry down is all about vanilla and candied resins. Closer to a body deodorant than to an accomplished fragrance Le Zuccherose Black Sugar collapses in structure along the way by sliding down towards a flat sugary/vanillic dust. The "black side of the moon" is represented by something (nondescript) smelling vaguely nutty and roasted. This Bottega Verde's juice seems actually like a "fragrant" rendition of a southern town folk festival.
Ex Nihilo Rose Hubris starts apparently (by ostensibly appearing in this way for a couple of minutes) as a mainstream rose-oud light/woody combo (apparently with a light creamy-woody-saffrony undertone) a la Dueto Parfums City Oud but actually unfolds in a few minutes its real nature of aqueous fruity-musky-resinous sophisticated "parisian in style" accord with a rosey-berrish nature, a simil liquid-incensey substance and a neo-chypre mossy-sultry background a la Cartier La Panthere with its ketonic-sultry (kind of acid-floral) muskiness. Its like detecting hints of not listed ylang-ylang perfectly connected to light fruitiness, rose and chic muskiness. I detect a translucent aqueous musky-chic parisian aura quite sophisticated, graceful and extremely feminine. This femininity is airy, daring, fresh and sensual as a dreamy tenacious young urban self-confident woman of this new millennium. Fruitiness (kind of red-berrish) and rose (as connected to muskiness) provide a really "kind of salty-acid and sweated-sultry" erotic appeal. Muskiness is in here a serious reminiscence about a scent which I love, namely that glorious Armani Onde Mystere which with Rose Hubris shares a central and fruity rose/musk dominant accord in either the cases mysterious, fluidy-resinous and kind of "sweated-organic". Patchouli provides structure, classic "loftiness" and balance while labdanum is in here well calibrated and never overly dense. Dry down is even more mature and hyper elegant but still surprisingly light, airy and spacious. Another Ex Nihilo example of re-interpretation (in a modern way) of a classic elegant theme from the french classic tradition.
04th July, 2016 (last edited: 05th July, 2016)
Seduction in Black is for a while crisp, bitter-sweet and mastered by this accord of dark fruits/bergamot (providing bitterness, darkness and angularity), blackcurrant (notable) and synth musky-amber. I detect cedary woodiness and surely cardamom which imprints a freshly musky, fluidy and piquant modern twist. There is a vague Armani Code-Gucci Guilty Homme-Polo Black-Police Dark Men-Montblanc Emblem's sort of vibe (each of them jumping vaguely on mind for a bunch of diverse nuances) but this Bandera's juice unfolds an its own peculiar individuality. The final amber is spicy, kind of bitter-almondy and woody-musky. Cardamom and crisp-angular patterns provide bold freshness, blackberries provide bitter-fruity darkness while nutmeg, ambroxan, blackcurrant and musk enhance a denser enigmatic vibe. This juice is a synth freshly seductive scent with a final twist of warm ambery mystery (and a sort of soapy-herbal "sporty" undertone). Best for night time casual use.
30th June, 2016 (last edited: 29th June, 2016)
Vanilla and tuberose are heady, you can get it by soon; vanilla is resinous and rich while vetiver provides an initial tad of fresh angularity (supported in it by crisp floral patterns and a twist of citrus). Along the way Bottega Verde Vaniglia e Mirra turns out drier and spicier (unisex but finally more oriented on the feminine side of spectrum imo). Sweetish but never over the levels of tolerance. Patchouli darkens finally the resinous amalgam (opoponax provides as well a sort of simil incensey vaguely smoky undertone). A solution for the lovers of this kind of unpretentious synth candied-yummy aromatic scents with hints of glamour-chic. Good longevity on my skin.
The worst of Dr Vranje's line so far. Effectively this peppery/minty/synthetic inconsistent vetiver's rendition is quite disappointing and frankly more than mediocre (surely not in line with the rest of collection from this little house). All I detect is a generally "collapsed" structure, a warm sultry ambroxan's presence, hints of vague woodiness and a touch of muskiness (frankly is out of me catching any vetiver in here). Fluidiness (or better, peppery absence of substance) is supreme, I catch cardamom, than is like detecting a fluidy synth amberish woodsy-resin (which is replaced in here by a nondescript resinous-peppery presence). Ambroxan provides a sort of chemical sultry/detergent warmth a la Armani Si or stuffs like that. Vetiver Poivre lacks finally personality, criterion, longevity/sillage, structure and even a minimal whiff of natural approach. Dry down is a pale undiscernible aromatic-hot chemical soapiness. Pass by.
My first approach with the Diane Pernet's creations is more than favorable (Shaded and Wanted are great concoctions) although In Pursuit of Magic does not fully confirm my first enthusiastic impressions. First of all this scent is something quite different than what by me expected before an accurate test on skin. I was indeed waiting to try something darkly velvety, silky-rubbery or spiritual-enigmatic while I actually catch on my skin a synthetic (yet accurately rendered) olfactory reprodution of a thick citrus grove's redolent green atmosphere. You get by soon on skin a straightforward citric turmoil, quite tart, fizzy, grassy, earthy, floral, apothecarian and bitter-sparkling. I was expecting the new Donna Karan Black Cashmere (or may be something a la Armani Prive' Bois d'Encens) while I enjoy on my skin the new Frapin Paradis Perdu (in this stage several Xerjoff a la Modoc, or Atelier Cologne a la Bois Blonde/Trefle Pur, may be Bond N.9 a la Little Italy or Byredo a la Mr. Marvelous jump vaguely on mind as well in their opening top phases for several of their characteristics). The note of mandarine is heady as supported immediately by bitter grass, woods, petitgrain, bergamot, orange flower and tangerine, green leaves, bitter green citrus shells and by a vague cedary vibe. Probably vetiver is included in the blend together with cedarwood or rosewood. Initially super-medicinal this juice smells almost realistic (at second impact, if you don't dig too much down the floor being overly exigent). Inhaling this scent it seems you are lost in to an ideally prehistoric silvan universe rich of secular immense appalling trees, bizarre creatures, sedimented omnipresent dark-green moss, brilliant streams and conical sun rays perforating the air through the (disguising the sky) huge trees as being cutting oceanic abyssess. Fizziness (green/leafy citric fizziness) is reigning throughout while I don't get a significant evolution on skin but just a general process of restraintment towards a darker (still hesperidic) pungent woodiness (seemingly rosewood) slightly spicy-piquant, tonkinian and rooty. I detect hints of fir resins, untamed wild weeds (yes freshly cut marjuana-conjuring) and may be galbanum. This stage is slight smoky; smokiness seems growing up gradually but without overwhelming the citric-woody elements or compromising the grassiness. This final phase is too "wild" for my full pleasure, probably overly "enviromental", bitter-herbal and lacking a real level of sophisticated elegance, subtle complexity or originality. All in all I'm not hoocked by this type of scents and Diane Pernet In Pursuit of Magic is nothing extraordinary or enlightening my senses. Usually this kind of juices finally unfold a vanillic or artificially leathery long tail but gratefully it does not happen in this case. Finally (over the 3th/4th hour of development) the juice becomes even darker and apparently fruity-boise with hints of something ostensibly conjuring a blackberries' presence. A pleasant darkly silvan (slightly resinous) citric aroma and nothing more under my severely injured nose.
21st June, 2016 (last edited: 23rd June, 2016)
Burberry London is decently mediocre. Rose welcomes us with a tad of hesperidic earthiness but in a while the main notes (jasmine-peony under my nose) jump on the stage quite angular, leafy, tart-medicinal, vaguely lemony and pungent (supported by dry synth patch, green honeysuckle and musk). Really nothing special (yet nothing horrific) but something finally waving presencefully in the air around the wearer (fresh, tart, cologney-rosey and vaguely acid). There is indeed a rosey-honeyed (but not in to an oriental classic sense) vaguely acid-cologney feel (slightly fat/old-school/stuffy chypre in style) which is substantially the main fearure of the scent. This scent is extremely floral (powerful on jasmine), finally gracious, slightly "british artisanal soaps-shop in style" and ideally conjuring the redolent smell of floral pistil's pollen.
Simply an almost entirely natural bright-leafy-humid-earthy combination of grassy-vegetal rootiness, piquant spices and mintiness. This is basically an herbal/aromatic/anisic cologne (it means hesperides as well). Artemisia-Estragon is the main Dr Vranjes Gigember e Estragone's element (producing a sort of simil fenugreek's effect) on the side of mint and lemony ginger. Pepper is notable along the first ten minutes. A fresh-dazzling botanic atmosphere more than a fragrance, something vaguely naif and surely more than a tad "culinary" and rural (but at same time subtle and refined as an old school eau de cologne). You can get indeed a sort of silvan "sottobosco" end a vague cologney vibe. The aroma of an early spring morning in the middle of a british silvan landscape. It seems to deal with something in the middle between several creations (vegetal and arcanely childly) from Meo Fusciuni (2# Nota di Viaggio) and a neo art-deco new Oriza L. Legrand's minty-anisic concoction (the more structured and finally substantial Chypre Mousse New). Surely not my cup of tea but a must try for the lovers of genre.
I'm significantly impressed by the gorgeous royal beauty of this Dr Vranjes Ambra & Iris. Opening is simply stunning, one of the best patch-dominant openings ever experienced in my miserable carreer. Well, if you are looking for the most intellectual and aristocratic of amber-patchouly dominant creations you could have surely in here your holy pillar, your supreme alluring elixir. I'm not exaggerating guys, this accord is pure heaven. This fragrance waves even "beyond" the decadent debauchery of my beloved (more vanillic-resinous) Patchouli Noir by Il Profvmo, being in any case located on a similar "nobiliar decadent/baroque field" (something ideally conjuring baroque ambiences full of draperies, chandeliers, bas-relieves, tapestries, precious cutlery, sumptuous stairs, purple rooms, occult lasciviousness and mistery, overall inside high medieval palaces surroundend by great courts framed by torches in the winter night). Literature, ceremonies at Royal Court, libertinism and baroquism aromatically transude from this veritable gorgeous piece of natural perfection. A perfect balance of elements, extreme quality of "ingredients" and the combination of several among the most precious elements in perfumery elevate this juice at top levels of the olfactory scale. There is all around a sort of "Caron-like" powdery-earthy mintiness a la Bellodgia by soon since the opening (conjuring me in particular Il Profvmo's patchouli but also several others resinous scents as Nobile 1942 Patchouli to quote one). There is anyway in here an almost dominant amber-iris centered inebriating dry (vaguely musky) powder which is aromatic, sharp, poudre/talky, soapy-rosey, victorian in style, vaguely barber-shop and waxy (with faint earthy-herbal accents). The spititual opoponax's quality (probably supported by molecular secret hints of further smoky resins and may be frankincense) is here, kind of alluring, substantial and mystic but it does not manage to hamper the general dry-talky main substance of the aroma (a la MPeG Ambre Precieux, House of Matriarch Ambre Vie or even more "elevated" niche ambers hidden somewhere in the recesses of worldwide artisanal perfumery). There is all around an "organic/warm skin odour conjuring" quality and most of all an arcane "antique soaps-waxy candels shop like" aroma of wax, honeyed resins, bath soaps, lotions, bath-salts, frankincense, ointments and balsams. Perfection. Smoky myrrh elicits a sort of incensey feel or possibly hints of frankincese are included in the amalgam. Subtle specific facets of scents a la Creed Angelique Encense, Grossmith Phul-Nana, Guerlain Bois d'Armenie, E.Coudray Amber et Vanille, Heliotrope Etro or Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche jump helter skelter and chaotically on mind along the way. Gradually patchouli fades and an immacolate talky-soapy sensorial universe encompasses all the whispers, feelings, senses and dreams of our leaves. Dry down (less dry and more vanillic) is a perfect romantic-victorian melange of patch, resins, ethereal iris florentina and hints of almondy-eliotropic vanilla (in this stage the juice is extremely close to Kiori by Kiori). A new passion of mine.
15th June, 2016 (last edited: 16th June, 2016)
Hyper aristocratic orangy jasmine for us. Dr. Vranjes Rosa Cassis unfolds one of the most realistic and indolic floral opening ever tested on skin, something yet experienced (with such a level of powerful impact) just by testing several Bruno Fazzolari's temperamental florals and few other scents in perfumery. The first approach is extremely graceful, ethereal, dreamy and vaguely decandent as a painting ideally reproducing a Charles Dicken's scenario (Great Expectations in particular jumps on mind with its sinister-decadent ambience). Rose and jasmine (the latter more than rose) are heady along this stage, like a nectar powerfully honeyed and kind of syrupy in a neo Victorian way. There is neroli in the air (an evident orangy classic presence) and a general cologney languid-graceful-poetic background more than vaguely conjuring me scents a la Askett&English Absolute (really close each other Absolute and Rosa Cassis especially going on along development and coming here up "on surface" soothing elements, blackcurrant and may be ylang-ylang). Cassis starts by soon "co-working" with florals in order to darken the amalgam by providing a "fleshy" fruity blackcurrant-veined substance (balancing the initial leafy-hesperidic crispiness and complementing the "nectarous" floral intensity). Dry down is even more subtle and refined, the olfactory "transfiguration" of a Doris Lessing's colonial ambience (refined, affected, lofty, intellectual and dramatic). An excellent take on this nobiliar floral theme by a veritable artisanal little italian "alchemic-apothecary workshop".
Diane Pernet Wanted is a refined spicy take on leather with a compelling spicy-fizzy-aromatic opening. This top welcome is a humid blast of splashing spices (kind of sparkling and vaguely liquorous a la Laboratorio Olfattivo Daimiris) and woody-piney suede yet rising from the background. Spiciness is initially stout, liquorous and steamy in a way you can be surprised by a sort of boozy elixir (it seems such the exotic spiciness you can get in several special seasoned rums). It seems to detect mostly saffron and clove as backbone of a spicy substance. Despite the "liquid-spicy" approach (a la Abdes Salaam Attar Cuoio Tartaro) leather is by soon supremely smooth and kind of almost "culinary" (kind of tasty, edible, savory and visceral), with a tad of lingering woodiness. Muskiness is undoubtedly here and is something enveloping the elements in a sort of definitely soothing embrace (it seems the spongy smoothness you can catch as well in several musky iris-leather connections a la La Parfumerie Moderne Cuir X). I have to say to detect an arcane "rubbery-ash tray-like" twist, something like a sort of tempered warm/tire-like effect a la Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia, a kind of rising austere "ashy smokiness" surrounding the elements and saturating the leather. All the elements are in perfect symphony in order to provide the smoothest and warmest of the effects, something apparently impossible with such "temperamental ingredients". The juice gradually evolves towards something ethereal and spiritual, like an austere orthodox sanctuary lost in the depths of russian steppe. Dry down is quite intimate, warm, kind of organic and super refined, a blissful piece of aromatic perfection (in which leather seems evanescent, vaguely mineral and sort of "soapy-molecular") jumping by soon on the stages of the best leather-based creations approached by my perverted "omnivorous" nose.
10th June, 2016 (last edited: 11th June, 2016)
Arrogance Pour Femme is one of the best fragrances of perfumery if evalued in its price/quality ratio. A creamy-musky jasmine's rendition with a sort of victorian soapy-rosey-honeyed floral balmy substance (I detect a sort of jasmine-cream, a balm of floral nectar, something kind of honeyed, yummy-vanillic and rosey). A gracious and diaphane (really radiant, poudre and vaguely soapy) musky-vanillic aroma with a stout ylang-ylang, a main rose-jasmine accord (jasmine more than rose), a further floral talky powder, hints of fruity-hesperidic accents (kind of apricots), a subtle spiciness (mild and almost yummy), a touch of woodiness, a spark of mintiness and lot of chyprey amberish sensuality (surely a well calibrated civet is present in the formula). I have to say that a moderate aldehydic presence enhances the initial radiancy while a link of orange, tuberose and ylang-ylang exudes a sort of soapy-peachy sophisticated (and musky) undertone. Classic but not in a traditional heavy-chypre way (indeed more modern and musky-vanillic than particularly honeyed of mossy). If you appreciate (for several of their characteristics) scents a la Estee Lauder White Linen, Amber et Vanille E. Coudray or Grossmith Phul-Nana (or several talky Caron's pearls a la Bellodgia) you could surely appreciate this stuff. The final outcume is soft class and delicious floral cleanliness with hints of ambery-animalic warmth, overall for € 10 or a tad more. Excellent, guys.
Acqua Classica Borsari is the epitome of the historical "eau de cologne", a crisp-hesperidic (huge bergamot and neroli) supremely lemony opening, a grassy (enhancing gradually its strenght) presence in a while jumping up (supported by well calibrated sharp floral twists, in particular geranium and jasmine) and a final piece of woody-musky refined (somewhat astringent) dry down. Leather? Not on my skin. Just a natural cologney smelling giving "la" and inspiration to a huge following amount of yet modern naif neo-classics.
Shaded is my first intense approach with the Diane Pernet Collection and I have to say I'm more than positively impressed, guys. One of the few really interesting creations I've tested on skin in the last six months, a perfect combinations of diverse accords (burnt sugary-incensey close to skin, woody-salty-iodate-dusty at distance). This is a daring courageous woody experiment and one of the most intrigant frankincense's rendition in perfumery, a sleight of hand based on the juxtaposition between resinous (woody/burnt sugary) and salty-iodate. First of all I appreciate the introducing DP's concept, something surely ideal and iconographic in inspiration (probably the Diane's "dark side of the moon") but never dissociated from the specific demands of marketing and communications (the Pernet's more speculative side) since this project does not aim to resolve itself in to something anachronistic and hypocritically spiritual but it "is inquisitive and open at all levels", it is in to a nutshell genuinely speculative and material before than iconoclast and visual. By the way, after reading the listed notes I was expecting something by soon lighter, saltier, dustier, crispier while the previous characteristics are (partially) proper of the following stages of evolution since opening is something more compelling, mystic and intense (but I can yet say less original than the final evolution). I detect by soon dark woods and resins but it's like the woody presence is merged with something superbly spicy (kind of almost indie, "Lutensesque" and "Slumberhousesque" in style), syrupy, viney-liquorous, smoky, burnt sugary and plummy. It is hardly deniable in this phase (at least on my skin) a similarity with a complicated scent as Rundholz 03.April. 1968 (and vaguely or partially with Tom Ford Sahara Noir or Lutens Fille en Aiguilles). This phase is quite irresistible and kind of edible (or better drinkable like a sort of italian "Vin Santo" or in general "Passito"). Spiciness is intense, salty-sugary, viney and figgy. I detect as well a vague sort of "pipe tobacco-facet" well rounded and toasted. In this stage resins are heady, so smokey and sugary but a remarkable trait is surely a sort of counteracting salty-piquant accord afforded by vetiver as combined with marine patterns and sharp dustiness. Saltiness increases more and more its influence along the way and (while resins tend to gradually recede) the woodiness (kind of cedary and stark) keeps holding on its power till the end (never utterly sharp but still resinous-burnt sugary and supported by a warm musky, almost animalic, embrace). This is a saturnine and misty juice, no question, according with a description ideally something smelling like a sort of lovers' encounter in the caressing nocturnal oceanic mist. Dry down is amazing, something salty-ambery/peppery/incensey (a sort of warm and organic frankincense/ambergris-like embrace exudes sparks of subtle, vaguely ammoniacal, iodate, piquant and sophisticated sensuality in the air). Shaded is a peculiar and erotic salty rendition of the superb vetiver-frankincense connection, one of the most intriguing in perfumery.
08th June, 2016 (last edited: 09th June, 2016)
FlowerbyKenzo is condense of florals, fresh musk, resins and almondy vanilla. Joyful, radiant and spacious on my skin. Absolutely not cloying, I'd say exactly the antithesis of whichever form of olfactive sultry oppressiveness. While bulgarian rose (initially crisp and earthy) is heady in the fresh opening (a yet vanillic fresh and humid opening) violet and lily of the valley come out along the freshly powdery almondy dry down. Rose is yet present along the bottom, finally soapy and musky. The "denser" (more resinous) part is the central one, opening is crisp, rooty-herbal (yet sweet vanillic) and freshly floral while dry down is musky-powdery with a tinge of creamy resinous. This is not a masterwork but surely I catch on my skin a more than pleasant semi-oriental with a spark of floral-chypre classic sophistication (anyway supported by a modern musky touch of girlish glamour-chic). I detect a sort of sexy girlish floral acidity which is evocative of that hellish "young woman's sweat mixed with creamy armpits' deodorant". Appalling bottle.
Tested today on skin this old synth piney classic fougere (really popular back along the 80's). The sharp side of floral melancholy. Kind of barber-shop aromatic boise accord. A dry, hyper dry and herbal accord of airy-grassy lavender, lymphatic-earthy floral notes and rooty patchouli, overall surrounded by a sort of grassy-musky and woodsy aura. Vague points in common with Battistoni Marte Arte. On my skin Patrichs is all about leafy-earthy geranium, pine needles, lavender and patchouli, there is a touch of ozonic and hints of cedarwood. Leather is just a sort of arcane undertone down the bottom. This juice is quite close to skin and finally really discreet and kind of "intimate and whispering".
04th June, 2016 (last edited: 05th June, 2016)
Just to clear up my probably debatable (or probably not) idea, Cuba Jungle Tiger is a spicier, drier, earthier sort of more diluted/fluidy (less oriental) Thierry Mugler Angel as ideally combined with the La Martina Cuero's sporty bombastic patchouli (kind of deprived from the leather's touch) and with a tad of the shower foam Badedas Noir's final aromatic-herbal soapiness. Nothing less, nothing more in my filthy opinion. Faint duration on my sucking skin.
Surely not a structured fragrance but a molecular musky-resinous (sexually balsamic) "multiveined" odour with a brutal erotic attractivenes. Vegetal/organic/ambery dark musc, profound, beastly and impenetrable. Ambergris is visceral and tinged by arcane floral sparks. Vegetal musks, honey, roots, may be mushrooms, ambergris, dark woods and beasty secretions are mixed in a bursting alchemy. The moan of deers' sex in to the jaws of a dark-green appalling high forests.
The way in which a great ghostly scent could be appointed in order to influence without being noticed, the way to be "huge" in the shade, to stimulate senses without to be knowingly caught and thought by the people around. An Ellena's lesson of sheer "new balance" by a re-visited classic type of recipe. Extremely transparent, expertly balanced and initially crisp piece of floral-hesperidic minimalism ending its run with a breezy tinge of cardamomish tea. The juice is all about crispy hesperidic (lemony) and grassy-honeyed jasmine but cardamom and tea tend gradually to merge their substance magnificently in order to create that sort of "fresh-liquid spicy fluidity" typical of many tea-veined concoctions all around. Yes, the juice smells naturalistically and "realistically" and is quite easy to wear. I see a trait d'union with the classic Pour Homme which anyway smells on my skin more complex in hesperidic articulation, subtle in floral waves, tea-centered, cedary, modern and piquant-virile (crisp synth liquid ambergris, guaiac wood and black pepper) while Eau Parfume au The' Vert being smelling more cologney, victorian and naïf. Dry down is so soft, gentle, subtle and vaguely waxy, yes someting kind of peaceful and reflexive. In conclusion I passionately recommend this juice to all the fonds of this specific genre which will have the opportunity to enjoy an extremely refined, "fragrant" and glorious piece of "neo-victorian" classicism with a contemporary breezy-exotic twist.
01st June, 2016 (last edited: 02nd June, 2016)
What an inebriating classy fresh creation is it!!! Muskiness, radiant-bright floral grassiness and resinous soapiness are in here (by a modern cleaner approach) provided with the top level of neo-classic grandeur. La Parfumerie Moderne Desarmant strikes me immediately with its flashback of something classically musky-chypre and aristocratically floral. Yes, a jump back at time of my youth with its huge background of floral-chypre conjurations waving helter skelter on my nostalgic mind. I detect in here elements reporting in my mind scents a la Ysl Paris (the effervescent general green-floral sense of hyper class and the musky/aldehydic/honeyed soapiness balancing the initial angularity of bitter leaves and grass), the more recent Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition (a similar structure, a marked ylang-ylang's presence, a similar musky-rosey-powdery dominance anyway finally mastered by an iris/violet royal presence) or Giorgio Armani Onde Mystere (rose, ylang-ylang, musk, laundriness, resins). There is anyway probably something far more familiar in the air which I'm not unfortunately able in this moment to connect to this Corticchiato's piece of hyper refined vegetal-musky floral. Lilac, osmanthus and rose are heady and royal in here, providing a general sense of freshly-musky floral courtisan refinement. Rose (probably connected to hints of benzoin and frankincense) provides a tad of fresh subtle soapiness while the muskiness is waving all around, supported by vegetal grassy patterns and well modulated resins. Gradually a sort of dry-fresh darker ambery/honeyed powder starts taking the stage with a role of co-protagonist (even supported by this magnificent fresh floral bouquet basically mastered by the supreme elegance of trio rose/lilac/osmanthus). There is a general sense of musky-incensey-rosey (soapy) "neutrality" which I've yet detected in Onde Mystere and in several fresh musky floral parisian accords of the past. This musky-floral neutrality is supported by a dominant ylang-ylang (really notable in here) sapiently flanked (by the alchemic work of an insuperable connoisseur of classic perfumery like Corticchiato) to musky resins and florals in order to project all around a supreme level of neo-classic sophistication. Ylang-ylang (supported by exotic spices) enhances this widespread sense of soapy-cosmetical dreamy subtleness. I appreciate the specific realistic projection of each single note (to me easily noticeable as individual part of a perfectly orchestrated soapy-musky-floral composition). Yes, each single note seems clear in its peculiarity but as part of an harmonious amalgam. I detect in here as well the Corticchiato's landmark musky association of rose and osmanthus we've admired in Osmanthus Interdite but while in that accord the "fluidy" freshness seemed mostly provided by a green-tea's presence in here you can detect mostly this fresh accord of musk, lymphatic-leafy floral presences and resins. The final issue is simply gorgeous, devoted to tradition (classic, measured, lofty and luxurious) but at same time surprisingly modern, radiant and joyful. Highly recommended.
30th May, 2016 (last edited: 31st May, 2016)
La Perla Grigioperla Hedo' White is a pale gingery-tonkinian synth accord "good at chess and no slouch at bridge, either". While the "classic" (just a tad less mediocre) Grigioperla Hedo' is a sultry (I'd say somewhat cloying) synth amberish/tonkinian patchouli this White brighter version pushes the accelerator on the longer (lasting till the base) citric/gingery/cardamomish introducing accord pretending in here to prolong throughout the Hedo's initial twist of freshness (finally in the "original" Hedo' absorbed by a sweetish chemical powdery-musky and ambroxan-dominant sultriness). What can I add? Ginger, grapefruit and cardamom unfold a sort of watery-aromatic kind of lemony dominant feel (just minimally supported by a soothing benzoinic muskiness). This is a mediocre and more than generic designer fragrance with any trace of originality or sophistication (and how much I regret the classics Grigioperla and La Perla), with a dominant cedary-lemony freshness, a subdued patchouli (compared with the "first" Grigioperla Hedo') and a final pale muskiness. Not a bad juice di per se' but something kind of "lost with no hope to survive in the relentless ocean of the market".
29th May, 2016 (last edited: 30th May, 2016)
Farmacia SS Annunziata Arabico is a stunning revelation on my sucking skin. First of all I need to say that there is something fresh-warm, spicy, virile, kind of organic-pheromonal, piquant, resinous and cozy that typifies this (otherwise apparently common) woody-hesperidic accord (I detect something conceptually similar, or partially similar, in scents a la 7 de Loewe or Creed Aventus); this special twist is something "earthy-sartorial", dusty-peppery and freshly urban but at same time classically spicy and exotic, a spark of class and italian spicy-rooty-peppery sophistication. This little fire is constantly paired by a quite freshly aromatic presence (fresh lavender and vetiver) which is not only citric and vaguely barber-shop (or classically fougere) but at same time fluidy-incensey (a watery frankincense's rendition), herbal, spacious and vaguely tropical. Patchouly (growing up progressively) and musk (so sophisticated and soapy) are heady, immediately followed by lime, pepper/cardamom, exotic spices and "splashing" frankincense. Complex (almost cacophonous) spiciness and silky soapiness run side by side. Woods are here but it is the combination of spices, patch, hints of "intimate" dry smoke (a la Creed Aventus) and resins to make this juice great, modern, sensual and extremely elegant. Lemony cardamom is a remarkable constant and I wonder if minimal hints of fresh and dry tobacco are included in the blend. The Arabico's kind of man is "modernly classic" (italian contemporary high tailoring), traveller, perfectly trimmed, freshly smelling and self-confident. This one could be a quite bold and sensual piece of perfume for the "seaside southern resorts-seducer", a juice which could appeal the typical Creed Aventus-lover but at same time all the lovers of highly spicy fresh and exotic fragrances a la Frapin L'Humaniste or Cartier Declaration (Arabico makes me thinking at a sort of warmer and more erotic Declaration on my skin). Yes, I agree about the ordinarily synthetic perception (Iso E in particular, with a sort of sporty shower-gel kind of undertone) but this juice is surely far more since its multifaceted articulation on skin (with its plenty of spicy, resinous, earthy, hesperidic, floral and woody nuances) gives glory to the whole daring experiment (a classic, basically "yet runned", formula newly revisited in a special modern elegant way). A pity for the just moderate projecion which slightly tames the potencially higher boldness of an (anyway) undeniably daring juice.
MPeG Racine opens beautifully with an old-school accord of citrus (mostly lime), neroli, mint, musk and probably rooty vetiver. Well made, bracing and with a classically naïf "cologney" gentlemanly vibe. Lemon is intense, vaguely medicinal and almost fizzy but I get at same time (as equally heady) a sort of bitter earthiness quite opaque, woody-camphoraceous and assertive. It seems to detect as well far echoes of dry hay or toasted tobacco. Hesperides, a touch of rootiness and the general muskiness conjure me vaguely the initial feel I used to pick up in the vintage Guerlain Vetiver eau de cologne formula back in the early 90's. Vetiver is constantly waving around under my nose but it is not a quite visceral-earthy vetiver, on the contrary it is mostly airy, freshly crisp and citric. Dry down, still unfolding this main citric vetiver's presence, is equally focused on a smoother and darker presence of woods, oakmoss and probably hints of benzoin/tonka bean. The juice is anything but original but could be a more than dignified solution for all the lovers of such retro gentlemanly pieces of nostalgic classicism. Really faint duration and projection on my skin.