Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2322

Altrove by Acqua dell'Elba

Just tested Essenza di Un'isola Acqua from this italian "house" and I have to say this ranks right up with the 2/3 best aquatics tested by me so far on skin. Perfect balance between "salty" and "creamy/soapy citric" with an amazing green balsamic vibe (and soft breezy floral nuances). Musky, softly musky and salty balmy musky. Really a dreamy and summery scent like a sort of aquatic Must the Cartier Pour Homme's little relative from the southern Mediterranean lands. This juice smells like a never ending bath up in a terrace's pool in front of the sea (the sea iodine under the nose). I smell "minty" myrtle and pine, perfectly complementing salt, citrus, seaweeds and floral/ozonic elements. The aroma of a "bright" june-sunset while waiting the upcoming summer there in the little island (the heart filled with joy and optimism). A juice which tenaciously I recommend to all the ozonics-freaks of this wonderful world.
22nd October, 2017

Tan-Tan by Coquillete Paris

A courageous idea of aromatic failure. Coquillette Paris Tan-Tan is (for long but thankfully not tout court ) another post-modern perfumed "anti-perfume". Dusty, dissonant, strident, leafy, chemical, electrically crazy. Opening (the less creepy part) is by soon intensely floral and prickly-herbal before to become plastically off-putting, sticky and synthetically dusty. The plastic/xerox toner-like smell a la CdG Odeur 71/Odeur 53 is evident, sour-green, acid and vaguely resinous in its floral background. I smell sticky white lymph, coniferous resins, petroleous rubber, dry florals and "a discount kind of leather" (milky/resinous). I detect several incensey/dusty un-liturgical aromatic facets (cold and impersonal) as well, combined with shopper bag-plastic, "liquid woods" (metallic and dry) and rubbed herbs, like smelling on skin a sort of watered down plastic/herbal/floral Durbano Black Tourmaline with figgy/leathery/piney disturbing nuances and with no trace of elegy.
P.S: dry down affords a significant improvement since the juice reduces its rubbery/leafy/dusty facets becoming a more properly leather-floral (almost fur-like) accord with classic woody-leathery-musky-floral elements.
19th October, 2017

Illicit by Jimmy Choo

Positive is my response. Along the first stage it seems to detect a sort of soapier and gentler Thierry Mugler Alien with a dominant (but definitely less "electronic") fresh (vaguely balsamic) sambac jasmine, some creamy orange blossoms and a huge dose of resinous/honeyed white woods. Rose (never earthy or leafy) provides a tad of "cosmetical - pink" delicate soapiness. Amber, musk and honey (a la Elie Saab Le Parfum) grow up gradually with all their dose of fairy elegy. Radiand and well appointed minimalist ambery-floral by Jimmy Choo. Dry down, after several hours is warmer and a tad less interesting.
17th October, 2017
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Gentlemen Only Intense by Givenchy

I'd not define it a total scrubber but Only Intense is a somewhat mediocre synth scent combining the angular-metallic-calonic regular Only's vibe with an overdose of sweet spicy tonka, hints of leather and chemical resins. Pepper and incense are overly dosed and too sweet for my pleasure. Pass by.
15th October, 2017

Kenzo World by Kenzo

Minimalistic synth fruity "powdery-candied" amber with a standout breezy/tart peony and a fresh ethereal soapiness. It seems to detect a red-berrish and vaguely gummy/waxy presence probably elicited by ambroxan/jasmine (something finally talky/soapy). I detect a quite tart/leafy ostensibly aquatic vibe. Honestly this juice is a new drop in the ocean of modern perfumery. It finally smells like a soapy detergent.
12th October, 2017

Eau de Rochas by Rochas

A sophisticated monument of "electric" cologne with a dominant brightly citric/herbal/floral minty accord. Neroli, bergamot, basil and rose-jasmine-carnation provide a supremely classic-naïf cologney vibe while an anisic/licoricey/lemony presence discloses a touch of cool "latin" aromatic exoticism. The juice is freshly tart and sparkling, recalling several Guerlain Aqua Allegoria or 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser. Dry down is muskier with an amber/patchouli dominant presence (and quite refined on subtle florals). A classic timeless concept. Stunning bottle from a left back glorious past.
12th October, 2017

Dragonfly by Zoologist Perfumes

A further Zoologist's well crafted olfactory twist. Freehearted and almost oneiric feminine ambery-musky fragrance. A credible synth accord with a radiant brightness. Dragonfly ideally conjugates a typical Andrea Maack's aldehydic combination of papyrus, greens, musky/mineral amber, medicinal lime, white powder and dry flowers with an equally "futuristic" accord of aqueous pond-like florals (lotus, peony, lilac) and synth muskiness a la Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique or Chinatown Bond No. 9. A froozen in time translucent white-green atmosphere. There is all around a dominant medicinal/tart floral muskiness with a sort of mineral/vaguely ozonic spark. Heliotrope and amber slightly tame (along the journey) the dominant lemony/leafy floral tartness but the aroma is all about aldehydes, tart berrish fruits, humid/lymphatic/leafy florals, pharmaceutical lime, secret minerals and aroma chemical green muskiness. Dry down is softer, diaphanous, vaguely talky/poudree and super sophisticated. Ancestral kind of ostensibly vegetal fragrance. The Dragonfly's idea of woman is ethereal and elusive, a "presence" from a sort of muffled and candid/naive untouchable world of innocence, silk and white dreams. Welcome to the ancestral universe of innocence.
10th October, 2017

Floïd by Floïd

A gentlemanly legend.
07th October, 2017 (last edited: 08th October, 2017)

Emporio Armani City Glam for Him by Giorgio Armani

I don't get all that "furiously reviewed olfactory disaster". City Glam for Him is just generic, a quite fresh-virile accord of herbs, bitter green orange and aqueous spices, ending down towards a finally generic synth connection of woods and "ostensible ambergris". I detect points in common with Emporio Armani He for him (a sort of initial fluidy, slightly oily-resinous and surely piquant trait coexisting with herbs, woods, musk and bitter orange). The herbal vibe is minty and aromatic throughout and it provides (connected to fresh cardamom) this kind of fluidy bitter initial twist. Dry down is warmer, a generic woods/ambroxan-accord a averagely sensual and virile, yet synthetic for sure (conceptually a la Badedas Noir but even Code or Emporio Armani He).
06th October, 2017

Lune Féline by Atelier Des Ors

A daring balmy/resinous (finally drier) amber appointed for us by Atelier Des Ors. A super resinous yummy accord of sweet spices and balsams with an aromatic (vaguely minty) aura, a sort of lingering peppery/incensey twist and a finally sharper/talkier woody "tail". Opening is quite mesmerizing and inebriating. Balsams are almost gourmandish and edible. The aromatic/green vibe is quite exotic and somewhat intellectual. A central accord of styrax, green patterns, frankincense and cardamom is heady and kind of "smokey/tropical". I definitely enjoy the heady chord of amber, cinnamon, frankincense and "aromatics". Balsams hold on seriously captivating and "juicy" till almost the end of the journey (anticipating and heralding the final cedary/dusty white powder). There is an undeniable amberish (slightly tobacco-veined) dominant presence which represents the "feline side of the moon". Fortunately the woody undertone is moderate in strength and well balanced (more than vaguely pencil shavings a la Montana Graphite). I don't get the musk at all. Balsams and dry woods are quite well combined, woods (kind of dry and cedary) balance the resinous vibe while providing a final sharper (kind of poudre, dusty and misty) aromatic atmosphere a la Tauer L'Air du desert Marocain. The fresh green vibe is durable along the development and finally slightly talky. I detect a certain resemblance with radiant resinous ambers a la Diptyque Eau Duelle and So Oud Nur (especially along the top and the central stage). Anyway this juice preserves for itself a tad of more assertive misty "shadow". Lune Feline is not a stand out crack in perfumery (and is not surely a quite articulated and structured masterwork) but we can say it exudes olfactory dignity being a quite intriguing juice for all the lovers of the "animalic amber theme".
06th October, 2017

Credible Oud by Louis Cardin

Louis Cardin Credible Oud bangs us immediately with a credibly destructive fist of synth bammy-creamy-musky oudh, sambac spicy jasmine and "cosmetical" (make up-vibe's conjuring) amberish sandalwood in a way you could swear (at least for a couple of seconds) to be dealing with a sort of boisterous Thierry Mugler oudish Alien on steroids (if possible). The amber-presence is since the beginning musky, angular, floral and vaguely powdery. Opening is seriously hardcore; such kind of gassy/floral intoxicating synth perfumes could severely test the common taste and the average tolerability indeed. Anyway, thankfully I detect in a while a sort of softer fruity-volatile-waxy-airy oudish presence a la Maria Lux Deeply or Heeley Agarwood (benzoinic-amberish spicy and candied rose/oudh, something still powerful but slightly more tolerable). Saffron (more than vaguely chemical and kind of detergent) gradually settles on the ground its spicy/rosey aura with a recall of that typical oudish modern rosey/saffrony recipe a la Dueto Parfums City Oud, Mancera the Oud, Xerjoff More than Words or boring stuffs like those. Dry down is a nowadays mainstream creamy-spicy-resinous accord smelling about soap, rose, tuberose, orange blossoms, vague berrish fruity molecules, talky saffron, powdery woods and something kind of "rosey" candied (a sort of oudish-gassy-powdery-cosmetical assumptive Chanel Gabrielle). Really too much of everything.
02nd October, 2017 (last edited: 03rd October, 2017)

Montana Black Edition by Montana

A darker/drier more assertive sort of Parfum d'Homme. Spicy, dry, rubbery, restrained, peppery, overall with a more than vague traditional powerhouse-twist. Black Edition smells like an orgiastic bacchanal between Nostalgia Santa Maria Novella, Jacomo de Jacomo, Bvlgari Black, vintage Trussardi Uomo and the classic Montana Parfum d'Homme. Superb piece of flanker-fragrance. Recommended.
28th September, 2017 (last edited: 02nd October, 2017)

Sacred by Louis Cardin

Louis Cardin Sacred is all about sweet resins, musk and dusty vanilla. I detect a sort of rosey spiciness (saffron, cinnamon?) as background. Hints of pepper? The aroma is pretty common, faintly (mediocrely) structured but surely inebriating and pleasant. This juice is kind of vaguely powdered, slightly almondy, woody (a dusty "white" kind of woodiness) and definitely cinnamonic. Juices a la Farmacia SS Annunziata Chia, Ortigia Ambra Nera or La Maison de la Vanille La Vanille Noir du Mexique jump vaguely on mind. Dry down is comforting and warm. This scent is excellent to be worn "intimately" for yourself (winter time at home on your coach) but not enough articulated to stand out in the middle of a Gala night at Royal Palace.
26th September, 2017
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Cedrat Boise by Mancera

A quite fruity (kind of apparently berrish and surely lemony) sophisticated creamy sandalwood. There is a quite present lemony/grassy aura (the cedrat vibe) which is musky and floral (definitely classic in effect - some old school or classically appointed sandalwood/jasmine-implementations from Estee Lauder or Mark Buxton jump vaguely on mind). The "sandalwood/jasmine/black currant connection" is surely central. I detect the "Cedrat Boise-effect" but the note of sandalwood (a floral sophisticated musky sandalwood) is equally dominant. Feminine.
23rd September, 2017

Aspiration by Louis Cardin

Super spicy, I finally pick up powdery saffron in particular. A classic fleeting herbal/aromatic dry opening (vaguely a la Paco Rabanne Xs or D&G Pour Homme) finally reached by soapy/musky/rosey resinous balsams with a powdery/chypre (brightly "laundry-detergent/toilette cleaner" and slightly talky) undertone. Dry down conjures me vaguely scents a la Dueto City Oud (but in a less resinous and synthetic way). In conclusion I detect a sort of harsher "hay/papyrus/pencil shavings-like" final twist. Not properly an olfactory "Aspiration" for me.
21st September, 2017

Missoni Parfum pour Homme by Missoni

Missoni Parfum Pour Homme starts as a revival (in a contemporary key) of scents a la Byblos Uomo original or Versus Pour Homme by Gianni Versace (glorious modern juices sice the moment of their inception) in order to gradually assume an its own darkly musky sporty evolution based on lemony patchouli, aromatic herbs and synth musk. Ginger, green lemon and lavender provide the sporty/fresh darkly-aromatic twist a la Badedas Noir. Some drier/soapier soothing amberish woodiness a la L'Erbolario Corteccia (probably because of the oak-note) emeges gradually but this scent is all about musky/herbal patchouli and green lime. A pleasant dynamic masculine modern fragrance but nothing more.
P.S: the "deep drydown" is eminently woody (kind of pencil shavings in vibe) and along this stage the scent losts almost entirely the interest on me.
19th September, 2017

Emporio Armani Stronger With You by Giorgio Armani

Conjures me a lot (at least conceptually) scents as Azzaro Pour Homme Intense (new) and Boss The Scent Intense (woods, spices, tonka bean, fruity notes, hints of leather and vanilla). Valentino Uomo (less woody but more "chocolatey") is not so distant. A cedary kind of woody (pencil shavings) undertone is unfortunately the silent star. Nutty, woody, sweet, vaguely liquorous/caramellous and strong. Dry down is highly peppery on my skin. Not properly my cup of tea.
15th September, 2017

Loud Whisper by Louis Cardin

Unfortunately another more than pleasant but un-original LC's creation on my skin.
A sort of "musky/talky bath-foam-like" mix of several "market cracks cliche'-formulas". If you are in to Amouage Reflection Man, Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy Men, Joop Homme Wild, Baldessarini Ambre or in to a whichever musky-talky "all around ubiquitous" bath foam and you even appreciate Paco Rabanne One Million or Gaultier Le Male (also Le Beau Male), well here's Louis Cardin Loud Whisper, the umpteenth member of the infamous clan. Probably the latter is a slightly more balmy/soapy "heavenly" mix of the former juices, finally so light, soapy, delicate and almost oneiric. At the end of the run Loud Whisper turns out pretty soapy/talky, floral-chic and creamy/vanillic. It seems to detect also a whiff of candied heliotrope, spices, jasmine, patchouli, ambroxan, tonka, sandalwood and a few more. Probably I finally detect hints of soft suede (a spark of salty-leathery remote feel) as well and soft woofiness. A captivating juvenile mainstream formula lacking class, structure and elegance imo. Nothing new under the sun guys.
11th September, 2017

Lumination by Louis Cardin

Lumination is a pretty ordinary sporty fragrance from Louis Cardin and another take on aromatic/green/citric (fougere)
saltiness after the pleasant Scentanium (being the latter more oriented towards a sort of minty/metallic woodiness while Lumination is more typically musky/ozonic with a plain sporty twist of final synth "piquant" ambergris). Fresh, clean, ozonic, lemony, metallic, musky. The combination of metallic/ozonic patterns, fresh lavender, hesperidic patchouli and synth (aromachemical) ambery/lemony muskiness conjures me significantly (yet undenied and remarked all their evident peculiarities) scents a la Egoiste Platinum, L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake, Allure Homme Sport or D&G Light Blue. I get some sharp floral notes but this juice is all about ozonics and lemony/aromatic/ambery muskiness. Dry down on skin is darker and more dry/virile with a plain piquant spark. Lumination is definitely a "bright" aromatic/sporty "conventional" juice but is finally nothing but a ramake of previous renowned classics on the same theme (and finally smells somewhat boring and uninspired, my humble rating is barely 5/10).
07th September, 2017 (last edited: 08th September, 2017)

Gabrielle by Chanel

Gabrielle is a delicate brand new Chanel's bouquet with a translucent "neo-Victorian" graciousness. Tuberose is the main element (creamy, soft, orangy, musky) immediately supported by earthy jasmine, sophisticated (soapy-cosmetical) synth ylang-ylang and by a final fairy (but vain and kind of fuzzy) balminess. An initial angular/hesperidic leafiness evolves by soon in to a soft musky-orangy twist of floral and soapy notes. Orange blossoms, ylang-ylang, tuberose, musk, namely a sort of hardly enchanting perfumed "remake". A gracious "baume", slightly dull and with a tad more than mediocre structural magistery. Nothing new under the sun.
02nd September, 2017

Scentanium by Louis Cardin

Interesting first approach with the Louis Cardin's "perfumed" family. Scentanium is a super spicy/salty fresh citrus-based mature aroma rich of charme and freshly-oudish boldness. I suppose a not listed well calibrated touch of musky/spicy oudh could have been included in the blend. The extreme "toiletries like" spiciness conjures me significantly the musky-oudish Arabian Oud Gentleman Secret's exotic radiancy (which I deeply appreciate). The latter shares with (the saltier) Scentanium this sort of spicy-exotic classic twist of "arabic" aromatic virility (conjuring me more than vaguely the image of an utterly distinguished seducing exotic man and ideally capturing the scene of a tall "hypnotic" man in the hall of a luxurious hotel with its broadly projecting wake of "cardamomish/salty" muskiness). I detect markedly an arabic concept of aromatic-exotic masculinity all around but it seems to notice a sort of western yacht club-like sense of aristocratic summery "yuppies-ness" as well. It seems to pick up huge doses of ylang-ylang, citrus, pepper and cardamon on a base of well calibrated oudh, woods and ambery muskiness. Really dreamy, charismatic and "oriental". Supremely masculine with no compromises. I detect hints of ozonics as well, salty patterns (hints of vetiver too?) providing a modern sense of dreamy saltiness (the connection between ozonic saltiness, musky woodiness, peppery spiciness and aromatics conjures me more than vaguely the core of Bottega Verde Nero d'Ambra). A touch of mint enhances this widely sparkling aromatic sense of seductive/daring/exotic/hesperidic freshness all around (a la Egoiste Platinum but with more piquant saltiness) while it seems to detect a touch of florals and secret dry fruits in the mix. Hints of woody-metallic-floral temperament conjure me partially the Montblanc Emblem's woody-salty-aromatic restraint as well. An erotic perfume. An excellent choice for all the lovers of a classic fresh concept of daring virility really sensual, piquant, bold and dry. Surely recommended.
01st September, 2017 (last edited: 02nd September, 2017)

Cool Water Wave by Davidoff

The risk is to die of boredom. This juice is tart as a blade and effective as an Axe-deodorant. Cool Water Wave is a typical straightforward (super peppery) ozonic-marine with a vibrant, tart-metallic and fizzy-spicy temperament. Opening is fresh, powerfully dry and super spicy with a central "ozonic/marine" performance provided by grapefruit, citrus, sweet spices (mostly nutmeg under my profane nose), pepper, ozonics and mineral-"frozen" aroma chemicals. Supremely "ordinary" dynamic-refreshing-salty-synthetic (citronellol, helonial, Iso E Super) accord of fizzy-floral (violet, jasmine??) grapefruit, citrus, pepper, patchouli, marine notes, woodsy musky elements, cedarwood and minty laurel. Sporty, grapefruit-centered, synthetic, fizzy, conventional. Tons of easy-going marine "waters" jump on mind, waving from Paco Rabanne Invictus to Bond I Love New York for Fathers, passing through Nautica Voyage, Azzaro Chrome and Lanvin Pour Homme. We are far from the classic "ambergris-like" (and woody-herbal) original Cool Water's distinguished dry down. The base smells really overly synthetic (and really really pungent/peppery, pungent deodorant like, gasseous and fizzy-tart- vaguely cedary) under my gothic nose of the hills. Frankly boring as a summer camp at lakes with puritan parents.
21st August, 2017 (last edited: 22nd August, 2017)

Live Irrésistible by Givenchy

A nowadays traditional formula (synth resins, peppery saffron, powdery/ambery woods and rose) enriched by "lifely" fruits and plenty of musky (bath foam-like) soapiness. A decent synthetic radiant fruity-floral accord, fizzy and spicy (super spicy), with plenty of tangerine, grapefruit, pineapple, may be apple, patchouli, rose/jasmine (may be hints of osmanthus), musk galaxolide and a sheer "cosmetic" creamy-soapy final vibe. This is a juvenile "carefree" easy-going fragrance for "relentless" young "multicolored" crowds of bacchanalian teenagers. Pink pepper, red berries? I detect a sort of saffrony/rosey/balmy/woody final undertone. Life Irresistible is the type of sparkling fragrace you can surely detect waving powerfully in the air. Patchouli is dominant in the creamier dry down (vaguely a la Dior Addict). Good longevity and bold sillage.
02nd August, 2017 (last edited: 03rd August, 2017)

La Nuit by Paco Rabanne

Certain types of things are like a God's gift, veritable antidotes to collapse of costumes, against an irreversible prolapse of taste and the paralysing boredom, as potions to keep my spirit up. Paco Rabanne La Nuit represents an iconic milestone for a supreme idea of "appalling" animalic/aldehydic/leathery chypreism, the forbidding thin red line ideally conjoining Van Cleef&Arpels First to Gianni Versace, Acampora Sballo to Estee Lauder Knowing, passing through Paloma Picasso, Fleurs de Rocaille, Van Cleef, Paris, Magot, Diva and Roccobarocco. Not a lot more to add over the massive floral/aldehydic/animalic structure. I smell poetry, picking up glistens of wax, peaches, musk, earth, pepper and dry leaves. There is a common "ultra-aristocratic" foundation (provided by aldehydes, civet, hesperides, oakmoss/patchouly, honey, fruity-spicy rose/jasmine and hints of leather) connecting all the former "noble old matron-like" potions, a similar classically chypre archetype of musky/spicy alchemy and lot of mutual memories about disappeared old aunts, massive mink coats, ermine furs, feathered hair, heavy facial makeups and high ceiling-rooms (embellished by massive golden frames pictures, oriental stuffs, bronze-statues and Persian tapestries). La Nuit eau de parfum runs gradually that olfactory metamorphosis waving from a stuffy/aldehydic decadent bewildering amorphous abstraction to a softer hyper sophisticated more "discernible/structured" fruity/floral symphony. Soft sparks of leather fill the air as moths, gleams of viney fruitiness dance as violin-notes in the night. Finally the rosey/musky/spicy/viney/leathery La Nuit's central vibe smells really close to the one we've enjoyed in Azzaro Acteur (which adds more virile restaint and aromatic piquancy to the beautiful olfactory game). Beyond all this manneristic monumental beauty (apparently ephemeral but actually substantial in its cultural "substratum", the bold related characters in fur coats or sideburns and flares, the overseas "exotic" immigrations and the enthusiastic future planning) all that's left is the Black Opium Floral Shock's shock and the horrific plastically anosmic theater of "talent and reality shows" with their indecent allusive exposure and the absurd background of metallic saltiness, stretched t-shirts, sculpted locks of hair and the adumbrative stretchy metrosexual pants. God forgive the inelegant fools.
01st August, 2017 (last edited: 02nd August, 2017)

Azurée by Estée Lauder

Another masterwork from Estée Lauder, one of my favorite glorious perfume-houses. Azuree is a bold floral/aldehydic/musky leather-patchouli prominent (green) accord with an herbal-bitter dry foundation and a sort of waxy (yes, like aromatic burning candles, a la Clinique Aromatics Elixir) soul. The Aramis classic's feminine counterpart (on the side of a more "unisex" Cabochard), finally brighter (muskier) and equally sophisticated (with a retro aldehydic/hesperidic mossy classically chypre architecture). I agree on that, if compared with White Linen, Pleasure or Alliage, Azuree is the most assertively complex and hard to wear of all. The initial aldehydic assault is heartbreaking and more than vagualy "stuffy", with a quickly "rising up" angular/crisp bergamot-patchouli's connection, a "burning candles waxy vibe", a green/herbal angular presence of forest resins/dry woods/musks and a prominent victorian pungent jasmine. Amazing opening under my "neo-victorian" nose with the vivid myth of Windsor Castle's aristocratic ceremonies. Patchouli is by soon bold and kind of "Royal" a la Floris while jasmine is sort of "acid" and spicy (likewise in Aromatics Elixir I vividly notice an old-school deliberately "retro/grandma" kind of mystic/incensey/waxy background). Overall the floral presence follows this "massively retro" glorious decadent style and the aldehydes/bergamot/ylang-ylang's co-work enhances this dominant "fat" and exotic/spicy effect, ideally in the middle between Aramis Classic, Mitsouko, Aromatics Elixir and JHL. A musky ylang-ylang is a key element with its charge of subtle sophisticated "cultured" (Grand Madame's) bold exoticism. I have to say that anyway Azuree exudes a basically fresh and bright leather-vibe (despite its spicy/earthy/floral/aldehydic complexity). The leathery presence (finally refined and surprisingly smooth) jumps up gradually bright and light (and going on along the journey more and more markedly as for Aramis classic, just more florally, graciously and subtle), even in here supported by oakmoss, structural patchouli, musk, a tad of frankincense's austerity and a finally warmer/spicier ambergris-presence. The overall effect is still musky/green, classically "chyprey", dusty and dry (un-sweet, woody). Another glorious pillar of old-style classicism in the same league as Cabochard, Aramis and further giants from a disappeared "manneristic" era. Projection is more than good on my skin, longevity is in the average.
13th July, 2017

gs02 by Biehl Parfumkunstwerke

Modern moonshiny new-age perfumery by Geza Schoen (a new great perfumer's vision of modern masculinity), the enigma of ghostly medicinal leather/amber, a dive in the olfactory minimalistic urban abstraction. Tokyo is there with its extreme metropolitan appalling robotic sense of loneliness. I agree with several of the previous reviewers since GS02 is a quite modern (yes kind of aseptic, robotic, opaque, aldehydic, electronic) piece of "clean-chic" animalic-green fragrance. This juice seems combining a sort of Andrea Maack's kind of hyperbaric post-modern molecular/aldehydic vibe with hints of the Comme des Garcons-like plastic-cardamomish futuristic "fluidity" and a tad of Ulrich Lang's (Nightscape-like) liquid immobile (hesperidic-benzoininc-musky) suedish chic chord. A well blended accord of synth liquid suede, green balsamic/anisic elements (angelica, absinthe), orange, aldehydes, floral/hesperidic aromachemicals and animalic patterns in order to appoint a minimalistic (kind of perfectly purified and clean) piece of metropolitan dark nuance (yes vaguely medicinal, electric, hyperbaric, fluidy). Leather, woods, amber and castoreum provide the intensely suedish/woody (melancholic) and sharply floral (it seems to detect violet leaves and geranium) main vibe which is enriched by a sort of rhubarb-like fizzy/boozy cocktail-twist (tart and vaguely bitter) and by a chic cosmetic creamy effect. Hints of minimal soothing musky vanilla and floral patterns close the abstract ring. Animalic notes and musky leather master the super smooth (and liquid) dry down. I get a tad of (Lang Cuiron/L'Erbolario Corteccia-like) smooth suedish/woodsy accord as absolute protagonist. The combination of soft leather, spice and tobacco conjures me vaguely the Bruce Willis Personal Edition's main accord (in a less virile but more chic and futuristic way). A juice which could be perfect for a night-time dinner in a japanese restaurant on the top of a skyscraper while overlooking the Tokyo's suburbia-panorama or for a Berliner electronic obscure underground party. A bizarre aroma for lovers of super glamour-chic minimalist enigmatic juices a la Costume National Scent, Ulrich Lang Nightscape or Andrea Maack Dark.
09th July, 2017 (last edited: 10th July, 2017)

Black Opium Floral Shock by Yves Saint Laurent

Unlike the original-Black Opium-formula's cloying mess this sunnier version is more wearable and light. A lightly candied fruity-floral synth accord with a dominant warm fruity gardenia, hints of musky amber and a tad of dark-metallic toasted balancing "assertiveness". Dry down is a sort of floral-vanillic amber with hints of plumminess, florals (orchid, gardenia, peony, rose??) and a swift of sultry muskiness. I get lot of similarities with orchid/gardenia-dominant creations a la Flowerbomb Black Sparkle or Tom Ford Black Orchid and Black Orchid Voile de Fleur. Nothing really interesting, pass by.
03rd July, 2017 (last edited: 04th July, 2017)

Clandestine by Guy Laroche

Clandestine is an iconic piece of fragrance from the venerable french house of Guy Laroche. I approach this creation with huge respect and connected struggling memories about times in which my mum was a dynamic "cultural events-planner/organizer" women full of charme, measure and charisma. She used to organize cultural meetings and gala events in aristocratic locations and amazing bourgeois villes (rich of golden frames-pictures, valuable chandeliers, tapestries and silverwares). The general ambiences were filled by the aroma of super chic perfumes (exaling from "appalling" fur-covered and jeweled 70 years old heavily dressed up matrons) as the soapy floral Clandestine, a light charming fruity/floral/organic chypre in the middle of the milky way running from Caron Bellodgia to Paco Rabanne La Nuit, Rochas Femme, Lanvin Arpege and 1000 Patou. The general classic structure of this "creature" is soapy-musky, benzoinic and fruity-floral. I detect in the air a severely "military/ortodox" classicism a la Caron or Patou. An image of bold elegant charming woman on her 50's jumps ideally on mind with dazzling gleam. I get initially a particularly classic chypre "jasminey-aldehydic" twist (a la Caron Fleurs de Rocaille and vaguely N. 5 Chanel) supported by a more modern fruity-floral radiancy a la Jean Patou 1000 for women. Despite its glorious gorgeousness (classic and animalic) Clandestine appears by soon surprisingly wearable and light. In the opening I detect (for a few time) a touch of "sugary" heliotrope (with its confetto-twist) a la Farnesiana, L'Heure Bleue, Habanita or Tocade (supported by dusty-powdery iris and benzoin) but the effect is fleeting, immediately overwhelmed by opaque rosey soapiness, sharp/leafy florals (carnation), hesperides, soapy ylang-ylang and oakmoss rising from a more "neutral" background. I detect in particular the ylang-ylang's musky-soapy presence which is flanked by tuberose, rose/jasmine and carnation (overall representing the musky backbone of this glorious chypre). Aldehydes, musk, ylang-ylang and hesperides fix a super stiff/old-school soapy-musky structure which is definitely the main olfactory theme, something being furthermore twisted and enriched by a vaguely sugary-plummy-vanillic-tuberosey more "tasty" (benzoinic/fruty/floral), coloured and modern effect. Dry down is all about soapy-musky amber which is nuanced by exotic ylang-ylang, fruity tuberose, classic dry leafy florals and patchouli. Clandestine combines shadowy soapy opacity with a brighter fruity-floral exotic musky spark. I have to underline that the Clandestine's "radiant side" is something still "actual" and wearable. Another pillar of a left back gorgeous classicism which still performs amazingly on the right woman (beautiful, radiant, dynamic, fashinating, cultured and reassuring).
02nd July, 2017 (last edited: 04th July, 2017)

Iris Fauve by Atelier Des Ors

A suedish smooth-waxy-musky iris. The Iris Fauve's opening, like in a flash, conjures me soon powerfully Dior Homme Intense (I get indeed a smooth-silky-suedish darker iris/patchouli-accord plus ambrette, musk, vetiver and woods), just I catch much more subtle complexity, more woody darkness, a deeper spiciness and a tad of more prominent powdered/resinous woodiness (which is always a "risky field"). This is surely a more "affected and intellectual" twist on the "basic infamous formula". I get as well a slightly chocolatey undertone and a liquorous spark conjuring me either vaguely several Valentino Uomo's dominant hallmarks. Iris Fauve smells basically more resinous, more visceral-animalic (with a stout myrrh/cistus-dominant accord) and "mystic" than Dior Homme Intense (whilst DHI is super modern in a glamour/chic way Iris Fauve preserves a tad of more cerebral and vaguely arcane/liturgical dustiness - vaguely a la Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir - made of resins, burnt opoponax and molecular spiciness). I'm able as well to detect a sort of vague tuberose-like candied vibe flanking and enriching this dominant iris-presence. Finally a quite animalic/organic, palatin-noir touch of "burning candles type of" powder envelops our senses in a sort of decadent/palatin glorious lullaby. Whether you find Dior Homme Intense too simplistic (and brightly gourmandish) give a try to this Atelier Des Or's more structured aristocratic alternative.
13th June, 2017 (last edited: 14th June, 2017)

Roses Greedy by Mancera

Tons of blackcurrant (and probably a tad of saffron) for a lascivious, bright, fruity-coconutty, creamy rose (paired by a yummy-salty balmy jasmine). There is a general sophisticated muskiness throughout. Feminine.
04th June, 2017