Reviews by Darvant

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    Darvant
    Italy Italy

    Showing 391 to 420 of 1573.
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    Acqua Essenziale by Salvatore Ferragamo

    Really close (especially at the beginning) to the classic and decently appointed Lanvin Pour Homme (citrusy, metallic, slightly ozonic, woody, orangy, minty and vaguely dusty) and yes, to the better blended, more natural and bracing Bleu Chanel. This modern ozonic/fougere is anyway more orientated towards a synthetic musky/marine nature and lacks the distinctive violet leaves presence (in here replaced by a sharp lavender/geranium) we notice in the Lanvin one. The combination of musk, grapefruit, citrus and chemical ozonic ingredients produces a really common and uninspired vibe. Really really boring and useless.

    14 May, 2013 (Last Edited: 28 May, 2014)

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    Jungle L'Éléphant by Kenzo


    I appreciate a lot this modern spicy-oriental concoction with a "retro deja vu" power. Jungle L'Elephante is effectively a wild and exotic combination of diverse elements with a dark spicy side, a mellow/fruity (intense and almost animalic) type of "backward" and classic elegance, a solid patchouli backbone, an exotic (i crave for the ylang/ylang) combination of spices (caraway, cardamom and notable cloves are not a joke) and a final almost incensey sombre side. Really courageous, a bit Cacharel Eden (but better appointed) and a bit Diva Ungaro with nuances of Arquiste Anima Dulcis (cocoa apart) and Noir Patchouli Histoires de Parfums (spices/patchouli/vanilla, but in a less fruity/spicy way). The extremely spicy/fruity final (oriental) olfactory "melting pot" is articulated and bitter/sweet with its slightly potpourry mash-up of citrus, patchouli, mellow fruits, cloves, licorice and other spices, more than vaguely conjuring spicy juices a la Cinnabar. The note of mango, in its combination with the elements (in particular cumin, eliotrope and the key bitter/sweet note of licorice) is kind of deliciously stuffy and almost plummy (or better apricot type) element in the final perception. I smell a secret smokey side in the background with its bitter/sweet, almost culinary and "burnt sugary" vibe, all aroused by the interaction between spices, licorice, oriental elements and probably a touch of tobacco. Effectively the ambery/vanillic dry down is a bit tamed in comparison with the boisterous wild opening, is oriental in a "salty"/mild fruity/stuffy way. Such types of fragrances reinforce in me the belief that we don't need necessarily to spend a lot of money or to run along the niche side in order to wear glorious scents. Elegant, bold and mysterious are the words to describe the women loving this spicy/exotic powerful beast.

    10th May, 2013

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    Le Beau Male by Jean Paul Gaultier


    Along the first stage of development the combination between fresh lavender, minty absinth, citrus and wet musk (yet rising the latter from the background) arouses at me for sure the classic Le Male landmark vibe but in a short while the aroma starts to slide towards a sort of salty/musky (a bit animalic and synthetic) territory that is more common, less intoxicating and sharper than the original. The pungent and vaguely angular following saltiness, dominant till the end, is a synthetic and at once sugary (salty/sugary, fresh/warm) combination of orange blossoms, lavender and musk with marine accents, lemon/orange and hints of amber. This final part is effectively sensual, extremely orangy, aromatic, musky and masculine with a touch of dusty and woody (powdery woods) virility (ambergris?) anyway overwhelmed and ruined by an orrible chemical/medicinal, bitter/sweet soapy vibe. I'm sorry Jean Paul.

    09 May, 2013

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    Eau de Cartier Essence d’Orange by Cartier

    A standout note, as well as often usual for Cartier, is by soon the cedarwood (sheer and transparent under my humble nose) in its balanced combination with a notable bergamot (at the beginning more detectable than the orange) and bitter orange. The beginning is the best part of the olfactory fatigue, the only one i entirely appreciate. Yes, the smell becomes soon rather sweet and tendent to the smoothness, probably because of the interaction between some secret fruity notes further than citrus (fruity elements undiscernable by me) and soothing/balmy ingredients. I detect the elegance of patchouli in its interaction with the dominant cedarwood and a sheer combination of citrus (not just orange) and some sharp floral notes (vaguely balancing the balminess with a touch of evanescent botanic tartness). The aroma is finally too mellow and sweet (yes, candied), to be a scent evalued fully elegant and gratifying by the lovers of the discreet and distinguished cedary/citric concoctions. I prefer Eau d'Orange Verte or Askett&English Absolute (for instance) looking for fragrances running (in a more than vaguely different way) along the same yard.

    Ps. After a couple of hours the smell tends to turn out drier and i detect a spark of masculine and sophisticated ambergris in the air.

    08 May, 2013

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    Armani Code Ultimate by Giorgio Armani


    Woods, salt and cream (overwhelming the olive oil Code's trademark element) for a synthetic boredom. No progression, any development, just cedarwood and salty/oily vanilla.

    04 May, 2013

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    Cannabis by Il Profumo

    Nice aldehydic (just a touch of aldehydes i suppose) floral-oriental with an heady undiscerned floral bouquet (Osmanthus, Tuberose??), a structuring ambery background (by soon noticeable in the top by its smooth soapiness) and a typical touch of cannabis oil you can perceive at distance in its unique sort of simil rubbery vibe. At the beginning the ambery soapiness is uncompromising and precedes the floral burst. The note of amber nails down the mail characteristic of the juice, something that at the beginning conjures up a bit an ideal blend of Lou Lou Cacharel and Chanel N. 5. That before another standout trait of the scent (i mean a sort of gummy/resinous floral effect) comes out. The cannabis oil is well calibrated, cleverly appointed in dosage and never cloying (despite an inner claustrophobic/stale temperament is in its nature) while the intense floral bouquet produces a sophisticated feminine vibe around, conjuring a more than vaguely decadent/potpourri Old Century's atmosphere. There is a touch of fruitiness (a simil apricot type of smell) in the middle of the resinous/ambery floral atmosphere. Any sort of narcotic rhapsody but after 4-5 hours you can finally be able to detect more clearly the joint in its sticky/smokey undertone in the middle of the fruity/floral and ambery (vaguely boozy) sweetness. A must try by the lovers of amber.

    01st May, 2013 (Last Edited: 22 December, 2013)

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    Eros by Versace

    The combination of the warm-fresh notes is abstractedly interesting and courageous but it should have been requested an uncompromisingly natural substance of the elements which are indeed finally at all synthetic and cloying. The effect is similar to the one i undergo inhaling Neroli Portofino, namely a soapy, chemical, thirsty and finally dull mess rather than something fresh, natural, daring, defined and sparkling. Anyway, Eros is the Versace's recent attempt to create a modern fougere with an oriental twist (a risky yard). The aroma smells soon lemony and minty but in a general "tendent to warmth" atmosphere elicited by the dense combination of vanilla, tonka and ambroxian unfolding the oriental soul of the aroma. The combination of mint, geranium and finally oakmoss imprints a fougere dimention which is anyway overwhelmed and ruined by an excess of oriental notes than finally congest the smell and turn it out in a less interesting and elegant form. The initial combination between mint oil, citrus and sour green apple (also in the association with smokey tonka) produces a typical sour and vaguely bitter (tobacco) vibe which interacts with the sweetness of the oriental elements. The cedary final touch is noticeable for sure. A must try for the lovers of these new particular mixtures but not for me for sure.

    30th April, 2013 (Last Edited: 21st July, 2014)

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    Oud Immortel by Byredo

    Oud Immortel conjures me some Accord Oud's aromatic facets but under a sharper and less leathery/gassy vest. The combination between incense, resinous oud, spices and patchouli represents the backbone of the olfactory fatigue, which over some fruity ingredients and smooth boise notes unfold their effects in order to round the final aroma. I detect a touch of boots polish foam effect, some synthetic woody elements and a sort of resinous/gassy oud-olibanum accord surrounded by citrus and may be bilberries (or probably is just the olibanum resin that projects that type of fruitiness in my perception). Frankly i don't smell precisely a tobacco presence but just a sort of seasoned type of aromatic/perfumed mildness soothed by secret elements (myrrh, benzoin??) and probably by minimal hints of suede. At the end of the trip i detect a more plain woody/ spicy presence and in this phase the spicier (probably more resinous) and brighter Al Oudh comes to mind. Finally what? Frankly a synthetic and "sulphureous" woodiness and nothing else. Another disappointing Byredo which does not strike at all my humble olfactory taste.
    Ps. After a bunch of hours a more pleasant incensey vibe keeps rising in the air, balancing the excess of synthetic woodiness, just a faint improvement due to push my rating up towards a neutral level.

    30th April, 2013 (Last Edited: 01st May, 2013)

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    Encens Chembur by Byredo

    Really don't know what to think about this juice as i hardly detect it on my skin after a while. Yes, it's lingering around (even if you think it isn't) and gentle but too shy and dull for the lovers of the bursting (mystic and liturgical) incenses as i am. The beginning is the weirdest part of the olfactory appointment as you can clearly detect a gingery fruity presence slightly angular, culinary and cool (a strange lemony, floral, sweetly spicy and aromatic touch) while in a few time (as soon as the angular fruity/floral vibe recedes) a common resinous and woodsy incensey (frankincense and resinous olibanum) vibe keeps working out with a faint sticky temperament and a mossy background. Pleasant but anyway i always dream my Norma Kamali Incense.

    30th April, 2013

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    Gucci Guilty Intense Pour Homme by Gucci


    A gummy combination of lavender and patchouli enveloped by a resinous ambery/woody cape and with a strong orangy tone. In the same vein with La nuit de l'Homme under my nose and probably better appointed (and more intense with its developed ambery touch) than the original Guilty formula. A sticky modern kind of fougere with an initial citrus/lavender wet presence, some green/rooty elements, a bombastic resinous orangy/woody presence and a dark patchouli backbone. Best for night time use. Boring and nowadays generic.

    25 April, 2013

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    Black Extreme by Ted Lapidus

    Yes, in the One Million's (but also 212 Sexy Man and many, many others) clan. It's a bit close to the original formula (with its initial bombastic milky/soapy stars dust characterized by a minty undertone) plus a notable violet leaves presence. An initial molecular (and for a while citric) white aromatic shampoo evolves towards a sweet and soapy boise blend of prickly spices, violets plus balsamic, orangy and soapy tonka. Virile, synthetic, powerful and brash. The violet presence, associated with tonka, hints of saffron and a touch of amber, turns finally out powdery and talky, with a drier consistence than at the beginning. Probably appeing to the younger crowds. Elegant and nice for clubbing.

    25 April, 2013

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    Sulky by Luciano Soprani


    Fresh and sharp fougere (with the support from amounts of lavender, aromatic herbs, moss, musk, tonka) absolutely dominated by the deep and juicy synthetic fruity top notes, in particular by green apples, pineaple and black currant. Some floral notes wallow in the blend subsided by the stout fruitiness. The dry down is more virile with its touch of ambergris but the fruity support is still powerful and heady till the end. Faint lasting power on my skin. Frankly too much fruity and synthetic for my taste. Not for me.

    23 April, 2013

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    Pure Black by Ettore Bugatti


    This juice smells immediately citric (a bit angular), humid and grassy before to evolve towards something spicy, musky/powdery and finally silky (a sort of orangy/creamy suede with woody/spicy/musky accents). It smells a tad about the new Veni Histoires de Parfums and a bit close to the Prada Amber Pour Homme Intense's dry down. The combination of musky tonka, orange, sandalwood, sweet spices and patchouli is plain under my nose. The woodiness is prominent for long but is surrounded by a dark shampoo splashed around by a musky tonka, some cloves, synthetic fruits and obscure patchouli. The leather (more fruity suede than properly leather) comes out at distance (just clothed as a sort of olfactory smoothness and not properly projecting a detectable leathery substance) and represents, together with moss, patchouli and herbs, the dark side of the work. Personally i find this aroma inoffensive, averagely pleasant and finally a bit boring. Nothing groudbreaking or innovative but nothing particularly despicable.

    23 April, 2013

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    Supercilium by O'Driù

    This fragrance represents a particular Pregoni's approach to the olfactory theme of the vetiver which finally appears highly lemony, woody and softenend by a bunch of sweet and spicy mysterious soothing elements. The beginning is almost traditional (anyway by far less compelling than many O'Driu' introductions, yes for instance i smell a less boisterous kind of Ladamo's beginning without the burnt licorice effect or a less anisic/fruity/spicy Laltrove 1001 type of first impression) and crossing the trademark O'Driu's blend of aromatic herbs and prickly spices. In particular i detect in the air a sort of pungent, vaguely incensey/smoky and almost minty (averagely sweet) herbal mix. Effectively the spicy/herbal presence in a second phase keeps to recede a bit while a sort of lemony (due to a dominant lemongrass) vetiver takes the stage with its charge of well calibrated "tart/grassy salinity". The lemongrass tends to overwhelm (anyway, to master over) the vetiver's action and on this sphere i would not classify Supercilium as a classic and plain take on the main theme, especially when in the final part of the development a sort of spicy and smooth sandalwood starts to "embellish" the dry down supported by a minimal touch of silky balsams (benzoin?, citric amber? a la Avantgarde Fetish Perfume). The final outcome keeps on to be lemony and woody with an averagely bodied spicy (sweet cinnamon or cloves?) mildness. Not my favorite from the this prestigious brand but a great alternative for the lovers of the "creative vetivers". Another great creation from the talented perfumer Angelo Orazio Pregoni.

    21st April, 2013 (Last Edited: 28 May, 2014)

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    Fashion Woman by Roccobarocco


    A first explosion of almondy and almost boozy blackcurrant is the prelude to a rich central floral bouquet that holds on in the time its sophisticated and indolic operation, standing for long over a sheer musky base. Some soothing elements as the ambrette soften the base, leading the juice till the boundaries of the oriental territories. Along the first part of the development i feel a lot the peony, the waterlily and the violet, in a blend that is for a while humid and averagely fresh before to reach a more balmy, synthetic and sophisticated status. Finally the lily of the valley and the cyclamen take the stage with a role of protagonists while i keep on detecting a smooth fruitiness in the background (a classic blackcurrant/amber combo). Neither bad nor anyway groudbreaking for sure.

    19 April, 2013

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    Accord Oud by Byredo


    More leathery and fruity (with an heady spicy patchouli prominent olfactory backbone) than "oud-ish" in a classic woody/medicinal way. A touch of oud provides a more resinous vibe in phase of dry down and of course a (though minimal) woody/oudish recognizable temperament. The berry-sh leathery (gassy/rubbery type of) accord conjures me more something like a mash up between C For Men Clive Christian, Colonia Intensa Oud Concentree Acqua di Parma, Tuscan Leather and Leather Oud Dior (rubbery- boots polish foam type-spicy and fruity oud-leather-patchouli combo) than properly a classy ordinary leather accord. I feel the initial rubbery/boozy blast and the addition of rum (sweetly boozy and spicy) is there to ticke your senses in a general prickly and aromatic atmosphere. The role of saffron, in its link with the aromatic sage and birth (absolutely notable at my senses), is refreshing and almost intoxicating at the beginning while it becomes almost gassy in the effect as well as the leather/blackberries/musk soft combination is accomplished. The initial approach is promissing before the juice starts to develop towards something more conventional and onedimentional, a sort of rubbery/leathery accord smelling somehow synthetic over its smooth musky/fruity base. Yes, a nowadays conventional experiment (uninspired but i have not enough reasons to thumbs it down) which anyway projects well and possesses a notable lasting power.

    13 April, 2013

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    La Nuit de L'Homme Le Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

    Le Parfum is not conceptually a classic Edp, i mean a version enhanced in intensity on some elements, i detect indeed more properly a slightly re-orchestrated version surprisingly less syrupy than the original Edt, better calibrated and with a sharper, cooler and more detectable aromatic/herbal and watery/citric presence. Is like the brand decided to repair at the original version's olfactory mistakes (i would write better "olfactory horrors"). The anisic lavender imprints a touch of "well trimmed" watery coolness for a while as well as the ordinary version would ideally let a bit the stage free to the new Frozen Cologne flanker (in some of its more sparkling traits). Probably the balance among the elements is better appointed, the spiciness subdued, the patchouli/labdanum is darker and more mysterious, the cedary vetiver is more classic, realistic and "important". The fruity presente anyway is still unfortunately too much prominent for my humble taste (though i detect for instance a less prominent orangy vibe, at least less sweet and sticky).
    All i see is a more developed and sharp green/citric/aromatic presence (at least for a trait), an equal level of dustiness (more or less), a less gummy/synthetic vibe, a sharp/almost incensey prickliness in the base (which is less sweet, more smoky and spicy/woody/peppery mysterious ambergris type) and a more developend longevity (just it, not the projection, anyway, not in particular, at least on my skin). Probably a better selected quality of ingredients (subdued the synthetic presence? Probably yes.) turns it out as a faintly better appointed and more wearable experiment though still far from my usual targets in terms of olfactory mystery, natural substance and seductive qualities. I find some resemblance with Jonh Varvatos and Canali Black Diamond.

    11th April, 2013 (Last Edited: 17 July, 2014)

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    Filles des Iles Golden Floral / Floral Solaire by Filles des Iles

    An indolic, yummy, creamy and tropical blend of gardenia/tuberose, ripe fruits, citrus and musk. Pleasant and youthful (yes ideal for summer in spite of its creaminess) but too much ripe, buttery and strongly floral for my taste. Uncompromisingly feminine.

    11th April, 2013 (Last Edited: 22 December, 2013)

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    Loewe para Hombre by Loewe

    Iconic classic aromatic fougere that effectively reminds me more than vaguely Tuscany Uomo but in a more complex, articulated and less clean way. Hightly aromatic throughout, herbal, restrained and finally almost obscure with a bewilderment of roots, resins, woods, learther and oakmoss. The beginning is mastered by a bunch of citrus, some aromatic herbs (many, rosemary, lavender, mint, clary sage and others..) and sharp flowers as geranium and carnation while the following development tends towards a complex dry down which is leathery/mossy, smoky and vaguely animalic. The leather (together with lavender, geranium and carnation) in my opinion stands out becoming a distinctive element of the complex alchemy. A great juice, for sure nowadays a witness of a left over age of taste and "restrained" class.

    10th April, 2013 (Last Edited: 11th April, 2013)

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    Rochas Man by Rochas


    The sadly discontinued Rochas Man has been an "olfactory sensation" for years, a really argumentative fragrance (for some people a genial experiment for others an hazarded failure) and surely one of the better received (by the market) Maurice Roucel's creations together with Helmut Lang Cologne and Musc Ravageur. This fragrance plays for sure a game of contrasts, being at once herbal/aromatic and gourmandish, sweet and salty/( vaguely ozonic type), initially fresh and finally enveloping in a warmer (but never cloying or soffocating) way. The beginning is intoxicating in a fresh, citrusy and aromatic way, a burst of lavender (the element that urged many to reclaim the presumptive A* Men inspiration to Rochas Man), bergamot and herbs. As soon as (in a short while) the soothing elements (balmy, moderately sweet and smooth) keep to rise up from the base (with a weird rubbery/"caffeinated"/musky kind of vibe balancing the ambery vanillic sweetness), a sort of central salty/peppery touch juxtaposes its substance in the general artistic struggle of opposites. The dry down (with its sweet/opaque sort of smell conjuring to some the cappuccino aroma) is musky and balmy and suave, kind of milky/boise with undertones of "untoasted" dark coffee, saltiness, musk, tenacious lavender and may be dry fruits or berries. The ambery final presence is prickly and masculine with its sort of dusty/incensey penetrating virility. An unconventional and pioneering oriental that, despite does not embody my ideal olfactory solution, stands out for its versatile and appealing power.

    09 April, 2013

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    Ambraliquida by L'Erbolario


    Penetrating, initially cool, really spicy (sort of almost "ammoniacal/cinnamonical type")and aromatic blend of woodsy resins, honey, amber, musk and cinnamon (?). I detect a lot of (sort of) fir resins and musk in the blend while the vanilla is just adumbrated. The powdery vibe is produced due the interaction of powdery/dusty woods (cedarwood?), amber, prickly spices, honey and probably styrax. A surprise, far better of many more celebrated amber concoctions around but for an incredibly cheap price. The dry down is really talky (but with that typical pungent/animalic, dissonant, organic and bit acid spark exuding from the honeyed amber) and averagely dry (as soon as the resinous vibe keeps to restrain towards the sharpness). This scent deserves a respectful consideration for its excellent value-for-money.

    07 April, 2013

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    Santal Majuscule by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Santal Majuscule is an interesting though not particularly appealing fragrance to me. The aroma turns structurally out as a plain woody concoction (because of its main "pencil shaving" longly dominant smooth, "figgy type" -never overly creamy- vibe) but in a way that elicits some more versatile and (usually) appealing feels along the trip, namely an initial liquorous (amaretto kind of) aqueous vibe and a final honeyed (tonka-cocoa) substance that pushes endly out in the air the rosey second olfactory traint of this decently crafted perfumed fatigue. I share all the rogalal's considerations about the reference to the more complex (with its talky and barely tropical iris, violet and leather accord) Le Labo Santal 33 (including those about the wisp of the smoky frankincense, unfortunately in my opinion too ephemeral to leave a mark and included the "darker" aspect that frankly i catch in the shadowy, more chocolatey but less tropical/subtle temperament- in comparison with the Santal 33 character i mean). The sandalwood/rosewood centered dry down smells in my opinion more as a moderately creamy and almost chocolatey woody aroma than as a woodsy/rosey one, despite the rosey feel comes out at distance on the skin without becoming anyway heady (as well as it happens for the tobacco/honeyed/woody feel) in my opinion. Anyway the tobacco/honeyed/woody feel is never too dense or syrupy as i detect throughout a fluidy, almost humid and slightly grassy touch which balances the honeyed cocoa and preserves as dominant (though soothed) the woody vibe. The outcome is pleasant but too onedimentional and linear for my full pleasure, the structure is not enough articulated and complex, the sophistication is almost lacking. Just a juice for the lovers of the genre. I nail down a faint average rating.
    Ps. I have to notice in the background (after many hours) a sort of virile temperament possibly produced by a secret touch of ambergris. Really good longevity.

    06 April, 2013 (Last Edited: 07 April, 2013)

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    Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's

    The beginning is promising on my skin despite i tend to appreciate far more some completely different type of fragrances. I'm soon surprised by an extremely sharp, subtle, translucent and sophisticated citrus/dry spices (pepper) accord that is yet incensey and soaked by rosey and woody nuances. This aqueous beginning possesses a typical Penhaligon's stiff vibe, spicy, dusty, conservative and astringent, something projecting an extremely sharp and almost ozonic fruitiness in the air. What does it happen in a while? On my skin keeps operating for a really short span just a really faint, definitely close to the skin and vague incensey/spicy feel (a la 7 de Loewe but a bit smoother and sweeter) with woody (dominant cedarwood)/rosey accents. The aroma disappears at all in a couple of hours on me. My skin is therefore able to project just a faint woodiness which is sweetly spicy (due the interaction by cloves and cinnamon), incensey and faintly floral. A well crafted concoction for the lovers of the "olfactory translucency" but a too much evanescent experiment for my full pleasure (apart that i would deflect towards the stouter and more mysterious 7 de Loewe at half of the price).

    04 April, 2013 (Last Edited: 13 June, 2014)

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    Muschio Bianco / White Moss by Acca Kappa

    In my opinion simply divine. What a stunning unisex musk, so airy, daring, clean, exotic, optimistic! I see in front of my eyes a white suited (by a white fashionable and elegant linen suit) daring italian man in South America full of energy, projects and charm (yes, on a convertible car). Muschio Bianco smells all about cleanliness, candidness and transparency, yes laundry and daring, with the lavender, probably a touch of chamomille (or mimosa), the berries and the aromatic spices from the wood over a bed of soapy white musk and woodsy moss. There is a touch of virile ambergris in the dry down which i love, imprinting a final touch of more restrained warmth. A wonderful fragrance for warm climates and life in the sunny cities of the south.

    04 April, 2013

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    L'Eau d'Ambre by L'Artisan Parfumeur


    The light aqueous/botanic (and with botanic i mean slightly grassy/floral and lymphatic) first impact is the prelude to a really simplistic, comforting and graceful ambery aroma. The latter teleports me in those days of the year that in the south Italy herald the upcoming summer, days when i use to face the life with optimism at morning well "showered" by a soapy and neutral soft ambery bath foam. I detect a really affordable amber almost utterly deprived of the usual animalic ambery mould and with a balmy final evolution. I detect the patchouli for sure while the floral presence is undertermined and just watery/grassy in my feel. I agree this scent could be good to be combined as olfactory base for other concoctions. The dry down does not contain powdery woods, moss, musk or honey, just a soft, unpretentious and soapy/balmy amber with a minimal density and a touch of residual fluidity.

    03 April, 2013

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    Macassar by Rochas

    Well, many of us, i mean many Basenoters, people from Fragrantica and in genenal each enthusiastic about classic perfumes of the left back old age tend to be overly fond of this kind of fragrances (sometimes we are also a bit too emphatic cause nostalgic about discontinued scents), i mean about stuffs so evocative, virile and naturally appointed with traditional practices and natural ingredients. Macassar is a classic, no doubts about, a sadly discontinued traditional and uncompromisingly masculine woody concoction with a green (vaguely minty) and sharply floral initial stage, a really impressive tobacco presence (a feel far more stressed than the yet present leathery vibe) and a woody (cedary kind) comforting dry down. I don't find it particularly strong or testosteronical in spite of its plain virile temperament. For a long while the aroma is herbal, really anisic, boise', musky/aromatic (cool by ginger, aromatic spices, resins, laurel and various herbs) and slightly citrusy and i detect a really sharp floral presence coming from the astringent geranium. The latter is really notable under my nose. In this phase i detect a sort of Monsieur Givenchy's type of vibe (with all the differences) , especially if we test the Macassar After Shave. In a short while a sort of really smokey (i refer to the seasoned tobacco and the spices) and more than vaguely leathery/ woody vibe takes the stage with a role of protagonist, closing the door in face to the former green/anisic/boise/floral stage. In this phase the juice become less sparkling (the anisic ginger is a far memory) and more sharp, "toasted", roasted and seasoned in its woodiness. The legend turns at this point out with all its evocative power about glorious ages, temperamental men and "misured" taste. I agree about this conservative fragrance being not utterly sophisticated or classy but can't refrain me by rating it with a determined thumbs up in order to reward its history, the naturality and its charge of memories.

    01st April, 2013 (Last Edited: 21st July, 2014)

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    Blue Amber by Montale

    What can we say about Montale Blue Amber? It's just a straightforward "uncompromising" amber for the lovers of this note, a simple interpretation of the main theme, where the note of amber is organic, aromatic/minty, vaguely almondy, slightly resinous but talky at once (basically talky and dry anyway), than exotic, luxurious and with an usual touch (just a touch) of royal decadance. Some Ambre et Vanille E.Coudray and Hermessence Ambre Narguile' 's facets jump to mind, tickling the olfactory memory. The hesperides are well modulated but enough present to enhance (at least in the first stage) a touch of aristocratic decadance, the note of patchouli in never heady or dark (as on the contrary happens for instance in Scent Intense), the consistence is never too dense as for instance in the case of Mona di Orio Amber, the floral elements and the powdery woods are basically absent, the note of vanilla is almost accessorial and a woodsy presence of musk, aromatic spices and vetiver is appointed in order to nail down a green/blue "kinda fluorescent" cool vibe. I love the pure, airy, penetrating, powdery animalic vibe of this fragrance, a juice conjuring at me the odour coming from a clean, talky and dry baby skin. The dry down is simply to die for. One of the best sheer amber at a more than decent price.

    01st April, 2013 (Last Edited: 22 December, 2013)

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    L'Antimatière by LesNez


    Yes, no doubts about, this fragrance is genius although it doesn't project a so tenacious longevity on my skin. L'Antimatiere is one of the weirdest fragrances ever tested by me and (i absolutely agree with the Foetidus's definition) an abstract concoction tossing at once out metallic/soapy, fresh/warm, modern/vintage, bright/mysterious nuances. It reminds me those weird clean (and nowhere to be discerned) aromas you can detect around inside some hotel rooms, a smell of toilette, detergents, soaps, powder, artisanal soap tablets, "fragrant towels and bedclothes" and woody fornitures. The beginning is soon compelling with its boozy/alcoholic blast a bit empty but immediately seasoned, spicy and ambery (i start by soon to catch the ambergris), evolving in a while (a really short while, as for a sleight of hand) towards a more complex, well rounded, soapy/musky and intimate aroma, something perfuming about, yes, cleaned skin, floral ambiental deodorants, laundry, wall paper, naphthalene, modern fornitures, soapy/neutral bath foams and room cleaner. The "intimate soapy effect" is produced by the interaction between musk and secret animalic elements, may be honey, may be wax, may be something just God knows about and the ambergris is finally present with its dry but "intimate" vibe so carnal and warm. This aroma is really unusual cause (this is absolutely true) it seems to odour but not to be properly perfumed as an ordinary fragrance, it reminds me more than vaguely the aroma produced, after the contact with the arm-pit skin, by the neutral odour-neutralising foams, this is more a skin aroma than a perfume. Fragrances a bit jumping to mind for some of their aspects? Well, a bit Iperborea Villoresi, a touch of Phul-Nana Grossmith, Cuir the Russie by Piver, Comme des Garcons 2Man, Equipage Hermes, Amouage Gold Man and (don get me wrong) also some Petroleum's nuances. An highly experimental but outstanding fragrance introducing in the universe of perfumery an almost unique "unmatereal" olfactory concept of unscented fragrance becoming a whole one with our chemistry.

    01st April, 2013

    rating


    Belle d'Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

    What i smell under my nose? Well, at the beginning an haunting tea note or may be camomille (that i detect throughout), a touch of honey, citrus, some botanic/grassy accents and gardenia. The influence by lily and jasmine comes out at distance and not in a sort of accessorial way (especially the lily) but with dominant and sheer intensity while the soapiness is well balanced and just vaguely soothing. Nothing particular spicy or mysterious, namely an utterly different olfactory fatigue in comparison with its infamous old parent, the great Opium. The dry down is woody in a sort of light, vaguely aqueous, peppery and floral way with a sensual secret (sort of sweaty) feminine touch that is probably the best part of this modern and unpretentious concoction. I don't find the juice utterly sweet, expecially due to its sour lily surrounded by light woods and aqueous elements while the synthetic vibe is never out of control. I just say not bad and go on guys.
    P.s: After a couple of hours the smell becomes smoother and a soft jasmine comes out with vague conjurations about the smoother and darker Jasmine Noir Bvlgari.

    30th March, 2013 (Last Edited: 28 May, 2014)

    rating


    Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly Hills


    Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly Hills, namely another pillar still successful in the classic perfumery, a radiant and immensely temperamental honeyed tuberose with soapy and waxy accents, white floral elements and a powerful spicy orange. The orange flower/ylang-ylang/tuberose accord is heady, exotic and protagonist while dominant is even the animalic mossy evolution enriched by vanilla and white mild woods. The bergamot/patchouli olfactory agreement, combined with oakmoss, honey and woods, projects a really classic floral chypre structure which isn't anyway utterly opaque as in the best and more conservative classic tradition but turns out really creamy/orangy, spicy, playful and intense in a more contemporary way. Probably a bit too much acute and creamy/orangy for my full pleasure but still a winner among the classy and indipendent women of the world.

    30th March, 2013

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