Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2172

In Pursuit of Magic by Diane Pernet

My first approach with the Diane Pernet's creations is more than favorable (Shaded and Wanted are great concoctions) although In Pursuit of Magic does not fully confirm my first enthusiastic impressions. First of all this scent is something quite different than what by me expected before an accurate test on skin. I was indeed waiting to try something darkly velvety, silky-rubbery or spiritual-enigmatic while I actually catch on my skin a synthetic (yet accurately rendered) olfactory reprodution of a thick citrus grove's redolent green atmosphere. You get by soon on skin a straightforward citric turmoil, quite tart, fizzy, grassy, earthy, floral, apothecarian and bitter-sparkling. I was expecting the new Donna Karan Black Cashmere (or may be something a la Armani Prive' Bois d'Encens) while I enjoy on my skin the new Frapin Paradis Perdu (in this stage several Xerjoff a la Modoc, or Atelier Cologne a la Bois Blonde/Trefle Pur, may be Bond N.9 a la Little Italy or Byredo a la Mr. Marvelous jump vaguely on mind as well in their opening top phases for several of their characteristics). The note of mandarine is heady as supported immediately by bitter grass, woods, petitgrain, bergamot, orange flower and tangerine, green leaves, bitter green citrus shells and by a vague cedary vibe. Probably vetiver is included in the blend together with cedarwood or rosewood. Initially super-medicinal this juice smells almost realistic (at second impact, if you don't dig too much down the floor being overly exigent). Inhaling this scent it seems you are lost in to an ideally prehistoric silvan universe rich of secular immense appalling trees, bizarre creatures, sedimented omnipresent dark-green moss, brilliant streams and conical sun rays perforating the air through the (disguising the sky) huge trees as being cutting oceanic abyssess. Fizziness (green/leafy citric fizziness) is reigning throughout while I don't get a significant evolution on skin but just a general process of restraintment towards a darker (still hesperidic) pungent woodiness (seemingly rosewood) slightly spicy-piquant, tonkinian and rooty. I detect hints of fir resins, untamed wild weeds (yes freshly cut marjuana-conjuring) and may be galbanum. This stage is slight smoky; smokiness seems growing up gradually but without overwhelming the citric-woody elements or compromising the grassiness. This final phase is too "wild" for my full pleasure, probably overly "enviromental", bitter-herbal and lacking a real level of sophisticated elegance, subtle complexity or originality. All in all I'm not hoocked by this type of scents and Diane Pernet In Pursuit of Magic is nothing extraordinary or enlightening my senses. Usually this kind of juices finally unfold a vanillic or artificially leathery long tail but gratefully it does not happen in this case. Finally (over the 3th/4th hour of development) the juice becomes even darker and apparently fruity-boise with hints of something ostensibly conjuring a blackberries' presence. A pleasant darkly silvan (slightly resinous) citric aroma and nothing more under my severely injured nose.
21st June, 2016 (last edited: 23rd June, 2016)

Burberry London by Burberry

Burberry London is decently mediocre. Rose welcomes us with a tad of hesperidic earthiness but in a while the main notes (jasmine-peony under my nose) jump on the stage quite angular, leafy, tart-medicinal, vaguely lemony and pungent (supported by dry synth patch, green honeysuckle and musk). Really nothing special (yet nothing horrific) but something finally waving presencefully in the air around the wearer (fresh, tart, cologney-rosey and vaguely acid). There is indeed a rosey-honeyed (but not in to an oriental classic sense) vaguely acid-cologney feel (slightly fat/old-school/stuffy chypre in style) which is substantially the main fearure of the scent. This scent is extremely floral (powerful on jasmine), finally gracious, slightly "british artisanal soaps-shop in style" and ideally conjuring the redolent smell of floral pistil's pollen.
19th June, 2016

Gigember e Estragone by Dr. Vranjes

Simply an almost entirely natural bright-leafy-humid-earthy combination of grassy-vegetal rootiness, piquant spices and mintiness. This is basically an herbal/aromatic/anisic cologne (it means hesperides as well). Artemisia-Estragon is the main Dr Vranjes Gigember e Estragone's element (producing a sort of simil fenugreek's effect) on the side of mint and lemony ginger. Pepper is notable along the first ten minutes. A fresh-dazzling botanic atmosphere more than a fragrance, something vaguely naif and surely more than a tad "culinary" and rural (but at same time subtle and refined as an old school eau de cologne). You can get indeed a sort of silvan "sottobosco" end a vague cologney vibe. The aroma of an early spring morning in the middle of a british silvan landscape. It seems to deal with something in the middle between several creations (vegetal and arcanely childly) from Meo Fusciuni (2# Nota di Viaggio) and a neo art-deco new Oriza L. Legrand's minty-anisic concoction (the more structured and finally substantial Chypre Mousse New). Surely not my cup of tea but a must try for the lovers of genre.
18th June, 2016
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Ambra e Iris by Dr. Vranjes

I'm significantly impressed by the gorgeous royal beauty of this Dr Vranjes Ambra & Iris. Opening is simply stunning, one of the best patch-dominant openings ever experienced in my miserable carreer. Well, if you are looking for the most intellectual and aristocratic of amber-patchouly dominant creations you could have surely in here your holy pillar, your supreme alluring elixir. I'm not exaggerating guys, this accord is pure heaven. This fragrance waves even "beyond" the decadent debauchery of my beloved (more vanillic-resinous) Patchouli Noir by Il Profvmo, being in any case located on a similar "nobiliar decadent/baroque field" (something ideally conjuring baroque ambiences full of draperies, chandeliers, bas-relieves, tapestries, precious cutlery, sumptuous stairs, purple rooms, occult lasciviousness and mistery, overall inside high medieval palaces surroundend by great courts framed by torches in the winter night). Literature, ceremonies at Royal Court, libertinism and baroquism aromatically transude from this veritable gorgeous piece of natural perfection. A perfect balance of elements, extreme quality of "ingredients" and the combination of several among the most precious elements in perfumery elevate this juice at top levels of the olfactory scale. There is all around a sort of "Caron-like" powdery-earthy mintiness a la Bellodgia by soon since the opening (conjuring me in particular Il Profvmo's patchouli but also several others resinous scents as Nobile 1942 Patchouli to quote one). There is anyway in here an almost dominant amber-iris centered inebriating dry (vaguely musky) powder which is aromatic, sharp, poudre/talky, soapy-rosey, victorian in style, vaguely barber-shop and waxy (with faint earthy-herbal accents). The spititual opoponax's quality (probably supported by molecular secret hints of further smoky resins and may be frankincense) is here, kind of alluring, substantial and mystic but it does not manage to hamper the general dry-talky main substance of the aroma (a la MPeG Ambre Precieux, House of Matriarch Ambre Vie or even more "elevated" niche ambers hidden somewhere in the recesses of worldwide artisanal perfumery). There is all around an "organic/warm skin odour conjuring" quality and most of all an arcane "antique soaps-waxy candels shop like" aroma of wax, honeyed resins, bath soaps, lotions, bath-salts, frankincense, ointments and balsams. Perfection. Smoky myrrh elicits a sort of incensey feel or possibly hints of frankincese are included in the amalgam. Subtle specific facets of scents a la Creed Angelique Encense, Grossmith Phul-Nana, Guerlain Bois d'Armenie, E.Coudray Amber et Vanille, Heliotrope Etro or Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche jump helter skelter and chaotically on mind along the way. Gradually patchouli fades and an immacolate talky-soapy sensorial universe encompasses all the whispers, feelings, senses and dreams of our leaves. Dry down (less dry and more vanillic) is a perfect romantic-victorian melange of patch, resins, ethereal iris florentina and hints of almondy-eliotropic vanilla (in this stage the juice is extremely close to Kiori by Kiori). A new passion of mine.
15th June, 2016 (last edited: 16th June, 2016)

Rosa Cassis by Dr. Vranjes

Hyper aristocratic orangy jasmine for us. Dr. Vranjes Rosa Cassis unfolds one of the most realistic and indolic floral opening ever tested on skin, something yet experienced (with such a level of powerful impact) just by testing several Bruno Fazzolari's temperamental florals and few other scents in perfumery. The first approach is extremely graceful, ethereal, dreamy and vaguely decandent as a painting ideally reproducing a Charles Dicken's scenario (Great Expectations in particular jumps on mind with its sinister-decadent ambience). Rose and jasmine (the latter more than rose) are heady along this stage, like a nectar powerfully honeyed and kind of syrupy in a neo Victorian way. There is neroli in the air (an evident orangy classic presence) and a general cologney languid-graceful-poetic background more than vaguely conjuring me scents a la Askett&English Absolute (really close each other Absolute and Rosa Cassis especially going on along development and coming here up "on surface" soothing elements, blackcurrant and may be ylang-ylang). Cassis starts by soon "co-working" with florals in order to darken the amalgam by providing a "fleshy" fruity blackcurrant-veined substance (balancing the initial leafy-hesperidic crispiness and complementing the "nectarous" floral intensity). Dry down is even more subtle and refined, the olfactory "transfiguration" of a Doris Lessing's colonial ambience (refined, affected, lofty, intellectual and dramatic). An excellent take on this nobiliar floral theme by a veritable artisanal little italian "alchemic-apothecary workshop".
14th June, 2016

Wanted by Diane Pernet

Diane Pernet Wanted is a refined spicy take on leather with a compelling spicy-fizzy-aromatic opening. This top welcome is a humid blast of splashing spices (kind of sparkling and vaguely liquorous a la Laboratorio Olfattivo Daimiris) and woody-piney suede yet rising from the background. Spiciness is initially stout, liquorous and steamy in a way you can be surprised by a sort of boozy elixir (it seems such the exotic spiciness you can get in several special seasoned rums). It seems to detect mostly saffron and clove as backbone of a spicy substance. Despite the "liquid-spicy" approach (a la Abdes Salaam Attar Cuoio Tartaro) leather is by soon supremely smooth and kind of almost "culinary" (kind of tasty, edible, savory and visceral), with a tad of lingering woodiness. Muskiness is undoubtedly here and is something enveloping the elements in a sort of definitely soothing embrace (it seems the spongy smoothness you can catch as well in several musky iris-leather connections a la La Parfumerie Moderne Cuir X). I have to say to detect an arcane "rubbery-ash tray-like" twist, something like a sort of tempered warm/tire-like effect a la Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia, a kind of rising austere "ashy smokiness" surrounding the elements and saturating the leather. All the elements are in perfect symphony in order to provide the smoothest and warmest of the effects, something apparently impossible with such "temperamental ingredients". The juice gradually evolves towards something ethereal and spiritual, like an austere orthodox sanctuary lost in the depths of russian steppe. Dry down is quite intimate, warm, kind of organic and super refined, a blissful piece of aromatic perfection (in which leather seems evanescent, vaguely mineral and sort of "soapy-molecular") jumping by soon on the stages of the best leather-based creations approached by my perverted "omnivorous" nose.
10th June, 2016 (last edited: 11th June, 2016)

Arrogance pour Femme by Arrogance

Arrogance Pour Femme is one of the best fragrances of perfumery if evalued in its price/quality ratio. A creamy-musky jasmine's rendition with a sort of victorian soapy-rosey-honeyed floral balmy substance (I detect a sort of jasmine-cream, a balm of floral nectar, something kind of honeyed, yummy-vanillic and rosey). A gracious and diaphane (really radiant, poudre and vaguely soapy) musky-vanillic aroma with a stout ylang-ylang, a main rose-jasmine accord (jasmine more than rose), a further floral talky powder, hints of fruity-hesperidic accents (kind of apricots), a subtle spiciness (mild and almost yummy), a touch of woodiness, a spark of mintiness and lot of chyprey amberish sensuality (surely a well calibrated civet is present in the formula). I have to say that a moderate aldehydic presence enhances the initial radiancy while a link of orange, tuberose and ylang-ylang exudes a sort of soapy-peachy sophisticated (and musky) undertone. Classic but not in a traditional heavy-chypre way (indeed more modern and musky-vanillic than particularly honeyed of mossy). If you appreciate (for several of their characteristics) scents a la Estee Lauder White Linen, Amber et Vanille E. Coudray or Grossmith Phul-Nana (or several talky Caron's pearls a la Bellodgia) you could surely appreciate this stuff. The final outcume is soft class and delicious floral cleanliness with hints of ambery-animalic warmth, overall for € 10 or a tad more. Excellent, guys.
09th June, 2016

Acqua Classica by Borsari

Acqua Classica Borsari is the epitome of the historical "eau de cologne", a crisp-hesperidic (huge bergamot and neroli) supremely lemony opening, a grassy (enhancing gradually its strenght) presence in a while jumping up (supported by well calibrated sharp floral twists, in particular geranium and jasmine) and a final piece of woody-musky refined (somewhat astringent) dry down. Leather? Not on my skin. Just a natural cologney smelling giving "la" and inspiration to a huge following amount of yet modern naif neo-classics.
09th June, 2016

Shaded by Diane Pernet

Shaded is my first intense approach with the Diane Pernet Collection and I have to say I'm more than positively impressed, guys. One of the few really interesting creations I've tested on skin in the last six months, a perfect combinations of diverse accords (burnt sugary-incensey close to skin, woody-salty-iodate-dusty at distance). This is a daring courageous woody experiment and one of the most intrigant frankincense's rendition in perfumery, a sleight of hand based on the juxtaposition between resinous (woody/burnt sugary) and salty-iodate. First of all I appreciate the introducing DP's concept, something surely ideal and iconographic in inspiration (probably the Diane's "dark side of the moon") but never dissociated from the specific demands of marketing and communications (the Pernet's more speculative side) since this project does not aim to resolve itself in to something anachronistic and hypocritically spiritual but it "is inquisitive and open at all levels", it is in to a nutshell genuinely speculative and material before than iconoclast and visual. By the way, after reading the listed notes I was expecting something by soon lighter, saltier, dustier, crispier while the previous characteristics are (partially) proper of the following stages of evolution since opening is something more compelling, mystic and intense (but I can yet say less original than the final evolution). I detect by soon dark woods and resins but it's like the woody presence is merged with something superbly spicy (kind of almost indie, "Lutensesque" and "Slumberhousesque" in style), syrupy, viney-liquorous, smoky, burnt sugary and plummy. It is hardly deniable in this phase (at least on my skin) a similarity with a complicated scent as Rundholz 03.April. 1968 (and vaguely or partially with Tom Ford Sahara Noir or Lutens Fille en Aiguilles). This phase is quite irresistible and kind of edible (or better drinkable like a sort of italian "Vin Santo" or in general "Passito"). Spiciness is intense, salty-sugary, viney and figgy. I detect as well a vague sort of "pipe tobacco-facet" well rounded and toasted. In this stage resins are heady, so smokey and sugary but a remarkable trait is surely a sort of counteracting salty-piquant accord afforded by vetiver as combined with marine patterns and sharp dustiness. Saltiness increases more and more its influence along the way and (while resins tend to gradually recede) the woodiness (kind of cedary and stark) keeps holding on its power till the end (never utterly sharp but still resinous-burnt sugary and supported by a warm musky, almost animalic, embrace). This is a saturnine and misty juice, no question, according with a description ideally something smelling like a sort of lovers' encounter in the caressing nocturnal oceanic mist. Dry down is amazing, something salty-ambery/peppery/incensey (a sort of warm and organic frankincense/ambergris-like embrace exudes sparks of subtle, vaguely ammoniacal, iodate, piquant and sophisticated sensuality in the air). Shaded is a peculiar and erotic salty rendition of the superb vetiver-frankincense connection, one of the most intriguing in perfumery.
08th June, 2016 (last edited: 09th June, 2016)

FlowerbyKenzo by Kenzo

FlowerbyKenzo is condense of florals, fresh musk, resins and almondy vanilla. Joyful, radiant and spacious on my skin. Absolutely not cloying, I'd say exactly the antithesis of whichever form of olfactive sultry oppressiveness. While bulgarian rose (initially crisp and earthy) is heady in the fresh opening (a yet vanillic fresh and humid opening) violet and lily of the valley come out along the freshly powdery almondy dry down. Rose is yet present along the bottom, finally soapy and musky. The "denser" (more resinous) part is the central one, opening is crisp, rooty-herbal (yet sweet vanillic) and freshly floral while dry down is musky-powdery with a tinge of creamy resinous. This is not a masterwork but surely I catch on my skin a more than pleasant semi-oriental with a spark of floral-chypre classic sophistication (anyway supported by a modern musky touch of girlish glamour-chic). I detect a sort of sexy girlish floral acidity which is evocative of that hellish "young woman's sweat mixed with creamy armpits' deodorant". Appalling bottle.
06th June, 2016

Patrichs by Louise-Philippe

Tested today on skin this old synth piney classic fougere (really popular back along the 80's). The sharp side of floral melancholy. Kind of barber-shop aromatic boise accord. A dry, hyper dry and herbal accord of airy-grassy lavender, lymphatic-earthy floral notes and rooty patchouli, overall surrounded by a sort of grassy-musky and woodsy aura. Vague points in common with Battistoni Marte Arte. On my skin Patrichs is all about leafy-earthy geranium, pine needles, lavender and patchouli, there is a touch of ozonic and hints of cedarwood. Leather is just a sort of arcane undertone down the bottom. This juice is quite close to skin and finally really discreet and kind of "intimate and whispering".
04th June, 2016 (last edited: 05th June, 2016)

Cuba Jungle Tiger by Cuba Paris

Just to clear up my probably debatable (or probably not) idea, Cuba Jungle Tiger is a spicier, drier, earthier sort of more diluted/fluidy (less oriental) Thierry Mugler Angel as ideally combined with the La Martina Cuero's sporty bombastic patchouli (kind of deprived from the leather's touch) and with a tad of the shower foam Badedas Noir's final aromatic-herbal soapiness. Nothing less, nothing more in my filthy opinion. Faint duration on my sucking skin.
04th June, 2016

Deer Musk by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

Surely not a structured fragrance but a molecular musky-resinous (sexually balsamic) "multiveined" odour with a brutal erotic attractivenes. Vegetal/organic/ambery dark musc, profound, beastly and impenetrable. Ambergris is visceral and tinged by arcane floral sparks. Vegetal musks, honey, roots, may be mushrooms, ambergris, dark woods and beasty secretions are mixed in a bursting alchemy. The moan of deers' sex in to the jaws of a dark-green appalling high forests.
02nd June, 2016
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Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert by Bulgari

The way in which a great ghostly scent could be appointed in order to influence without being noticed, the way to be "huge" in the shade, to stimulate senses without to be knowingly caught and thought by the people around. An Ellena's lesson of sheer "new balance" by a re-visited classic type of recipe. Extremely transparent, expertly balanced and initially crisp piece of floral-hesperidic minimalism ending its run with a breezy tinge of cardamomish tea. The juice is all about crispy hesperidic (lemony) and grassy-honeyed jasmine but cardamom and tea tend gradually to merge their substance magnificently in order to create that sort of "fresh-liquid spicy fluidity" typical of many tea-veined concoctions all around. Yes, the juice smells naturalistically and "realistically" and is quite easy to wear. I see a trait d'union with the classic Pour Homme which anyway smells on my skin more complex in hesperidic articulation, subtle in floral waves, tea-centered, cedary, modern and piquant-virile (crisp synth liquid ambergris, guaiac wood and black pepper) while Eau Parfume au The' Vert being smelling more cologney, victorian and naïf. Dry down is so soft, gentle, subtle and vaguely waxy, yes someting kind of peaceful and reflexive. In conclusion I passionately recommend this juice to all the fonds of this specific genre which will have the opportunity to enjoy an extremely refined, "fragrant" and glorious piece of "neo-victorian" classicism with a contemporary breezy-exotic twist.
01st June, 2016 (last edited: 02nd June, 2016)

Désarmant by La Parfumerie Moderne

What an inebriating classy fresh creation is it!!! Muskiness, radiant-bright floral grassiness and resinous soapiness are in here (by a modern cleaner approach) provided with the top level of neo-classic grandeur. La Parfumerie Moderne Desarmant strikes me immediately with its flashback of something classically musky-chypre and aristocratically floral. Yes, a jump back at time of my youth with its huge background of floral-chypre conjurations waving helter skelter on my nostalgic mind. I detect in here elements reporting in my mind scents a la Ysl Paris (the effervescent general green-floral sense of hyper class and the musky/aldehydic/honeyed soapiness balancing the initial angularity of bitter leaves and grass), the more recent Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition (a similar structure, a marked ylang-ylang's presence, a similar musky-rosey-powdery dominance anyway finally mastered by an iris/violet royal presence) or Giorgio Armani Onde Mystere (rose, ylang-ylang, musk, laundriness, resins). There is anyway probably something far more familiar in the air which I'm not unfortunately able in this moment to connect to this Corticchiato's piece of hyper refined vegetal-musky floral. Lilac, osmanthus and rose are heady and royal in here, providing a general sense of freshly-musky floral courtisan refinement. Rose (probably connected to hints of benzoin and frankincense) provides a tad of fresh subtle soapiness while the muskiness is waving all around, supported by vegetal grassy patterns and well modulated resins. Gradually a sort of dry-fresh darker ambery/honeyed powder starts taking the stage with a role of co-protagonist (even supported by this magnificent fresh floral bouquet basically mastered by the supreme elegance of trio rose/lilac/osmanthus). There is a general sense of musky-incensey-rosey (soapy) "neutrality" which I've yet detected in Onde Mystere and in several fresh musky floral parisian accords of the past. This musky-floral neutrality is supported by a dominant ylang-ylang (really notable in here) sapiently flanked (by the alchemic work of an insuperable connoisseur of classic perfumery like Corticchiato) to musky resins and florals in order to project all around a supreme level of neo-classic sophistication. Ylang-ylang (supported by exotic spices) enhances this widespread sense of soapy-cosmetical dreamy subtleness. I appreciate the specific realistic projection of each single note (to me easily noticeable as individual part of a perfectly orchestrated soapy-musky-floral composition). Yes, each single note seems clear in its peculiarity but as part of an harmonious amalgam. I detect in here as well the Corticchiato's landmark musky association of rose and osmanthus we've admired in Osmanthus Interdite but while in that accord the "fluidy" freshness seemed mostly provided by a green-tea's presence in here you can detect mostly this fresh accord of musk, lymphatic-leafy floral presences and resins. The final issue is simply gorgeous, devoted to tradition (classic, measured, lofty and luxurious) but at same time surprisingly modern, radiant and joyful. Highly recommended.
30th May, 2016 (last edited: 31st May, 2016)

GrigioPerla Hedò White by La Perla

La Perla Grigioperla Hedo' White is a pale gingery-tonkinian synth accord "good at chess and no slouch at bridge, either". While the "classic" (just a tad less mediocre) Grigioperla Hedo' is a sultry (I'd say somewhat cloying) synth amberish/tonkinian patchouli this White brighter version pushes the accelerator on the longer (lasting till the base) citric/gingery/cardamomish introducing accord pretending in here to prolong throughout the Hedo's initial twist of freshness (finally in the "original" Hedo' absorbed by a sweetish chemical powdery-musky and ambroxan-dominant sultriness). What can I add? Ginger, grapefruit and cardamom unfold a sort of watery-aromatic kind of lemony dominant feel (just minimally supported by a soothing benzoinic muskiness). This is a mediocre and more than generic designer fragrance with any trace of originality or sophistication (and how much I regret the classics Grigioperla and La Perla), with a dominant cedary-lemony freshness, a subdued patchouli (compared with the "first" Grigioperla Hedo') and a final pale muskiness. Not a bad juice di per se' but something kind of "lost with no hope to survive in the relentless ocean of the market".
29th May, 2016 (last edited: 30th May, 2016)

Arabico by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

Farmacia SS Annunziata Arabico is a stunning revelation on my sucking skin. First of all I need to say that there is something fresh-warm, spicy, virile, kind of organic-pheromonal, piquant, resinous and cozy that typifies this (otherwise apparently common) woody-hesperidic accord (I detect something conceptually similar, or partially similar, in scents a la 7 de Loewe or Creed Aventus); this special twist is something "earthy-sartorial", dusty-peppery and freshly urban but at same time classically spicy and exotic, a spark of class and italian spicy-rooty-peppery sophistication. This little fire is constantly paired by a quite freshly aromatic presence (fresh lavender and vetiver) which is not only citric and vaguely barber-shop (or classically fougere) but at same time fluidy-incensey (a watery frankincense's rendition), herbal, spacious and vaguely tropical. Patchouly (growing up progressively) and musk (so sophisticated and soapy) are heady, immediately followed by lime, pepper/cardamom, exotic spices and "splashing" frankincense. Complex (almost cacophonous) spiciness and silky soapiness run side by side. Woods are here but it is the combination of spices, patch, hints of "intimate" dry smoke (a la Creed Aventus) and resins to make this juice great, modern, sensual and extremely elegant. Lemony cardamom is a remarkable constant and I wonder if minimal hints of fresh and dry tobacco are included in the blend. The Arabico's kind of man is "modernly classic" (italian contemporary high tailoring), traveller, perfectly trimmed, freshly smelling and self-confident. This one could be a quite bold and sensual piece of perfume for the "seaside southern resorts-seducer", a juice which could appeal the typical Creed Aventus-lover but at same time all the lovers of highly spicy fresh and exotic fragrances a la Frapin L'Humaniste or Cartier Declaration (Arabico makes me thinking at a sort of warmer and more erotic Declaration on my skin). Yes, I agree about the ordinarily synthetic perception (Iso E in particular, with a sort of sporty shower-gel kind of undertone) but this juice is surely far more since its multifaceted articulation on skin (with its plenty of spicy, resinous, earthy, hesperidic, floral and woody nuances) gives glory to the whole daring experiment (a classic, basically "yet runned", formula newly revisited in a special modern elegant way). A pity for the just moderate projecion which slightly tames the potencially higher boldness of an (anyway) undeniably daring juice.
27th May, 2016

Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

MPeG Racine opens beautifully with an old-school accord of citrus (mostly lime), neroli, mint, musk and probably rooty vetiver. Well made, bracing and with a classically naïf "cologney" gentlemanly vibe. Lemon is intense, vaguely medicinal and almost fizzy but I get at same time (as equally heady) a sort of bitter earthiness quite opaque, woody-camphoraceous and assertive. It seems to detect as well far echoes of dry hay or toasted tobacco. Hesperides, a touch of rootiness and the general muskiness conjure me vaguely the initial feel I used to pick up in the vintage Guerlain Vetiver eau de cologne formula back in the early 90's. Vetiver is constantly waving around under my nose but it is not a quite visceral-earthy vetiver, on the contrary it is mostly airy, freshly crisp and citric. Dry down, still unfolding this main citric vetiver's presence, is equally focused on a smoother and darker presence of woods, oakmoss and probably hints of benzoin/tonka bean. The juice is anything but original but could be a more than dignified solution for all the lovers of such retro gentlemanly pieces of nostalgic classicism. Really faint duration and projection on my skin.
25th May, 2016

Jaïpur pour Homme Fraîcheur by Boucheron

Boucheron Jaipur Fraicheur is a great piece of dry-aromatic juice pour homme, equally exotic but basically less talky-heliotropic than its great "main brother" Jaipur Pour Homme (still a giant among the giants in my humble wish-catalog). Spices are still here but significantly subdued while opening is fresher (fraicheur) and more sparkling with its wet accord of bergamot and probably grapefruit lansting longer (unlike in the "original" version) along the following development. I detect a central stage mastered by orange-patchouli-cinnamon/nutmeg and green-spicy florals while dry down Is woodier (woody-powdery by cashmere wood) and decidedly less amberish (less talky/heliotropic) than in its more ethereal predecessor. Immortelle provides a sort of fresh-aromatic, vaguely minty-honeyed, spicy-floral, "agrodolce", curry-like twist with exotic facets. A quite well appointed woody-floral perfect for the mediterranean spring-summer time.
22nd May, 2016

Mr. Burberry by Burberry

Irrelevant? Yes. Horrible? Not. A generic woody-aromatic liquid with a revisited mainstream formula yet runned by tons of perfumers in a plenty of forgetable juices of the past (many Zegna, Givenchy, Lanvin, Tommy Hilfiger easily submerged by a speedy forgetfulness etc). Mr Burberry starts freshly aromatic (with this nowadays taking the world by storm fresh-liquid cardamom), typically citric (a classic accord of citrus, grapefruit, metallic notes and hints of flowers- jasmine?), going on developing a sweetly spicy core (nutmeg, cinnamon?) in order to end down towards a yet more boring sharp woodiness (dominant) partially counteracted by hints of mild balsams. Finally it conjures me a lot Givenchy Gentleman Only (sharper, saltier and equally boring) and CK Contradiction Men (but scents as V&A Tsar, Ungaro III, Heaven Chopard, Bond N.9 Wall Street, Paco Rabanne Invictus, Chanel Bleu and many many others come on my mind for several of their nuances). By a whisker "barely mediocre" (a successfull 4,75/10 from me). Nothing new under the sun and nothing more to add guys.

P.S: good longevity, the "long tail" dry down unfolds a sort of simil amberish (simil ambergris) spicy/peppery/rooty piquancy (warm and ostensibly testosteronic) which I appreciate a lot for its warmth and virility. There is far, far worse of it around in the mainstream perfumery.
21st May, 2016 (last edited: 23rd May, 2016)

Noise by Ephemera by Unsound

Looking at Noise all the "smoky-scents' amateurs and fetish lods" can have finally their dirty-herbal simulacrum. Noise is indeed a greenish-steamy moonshiny experiment for Ephemera by Unsound which is (probably more than Drone) expression of the Geza Schoen's articulated and saturnine personality. I'm not enough informed about this "complex creative fellow" which seems condensing (in olfactive facets) in perfumery all his skills and visual pulsions about electronic music, ethnic culture and avant-garde urban artistic movements. We know that each Geza's olfactory experiment for Unsound (engaged in its Ephemera project) is the result of a creative process of translating sounds into scent notes (with this artistic installation taking place in a New Yorker Audio Visual Arts gallery located in East Village). Noise is by soon boisterously smoky-herbal, peppery and incensey in a way conjuring me soon more than vaguely Naomi Goodsir Bois d'Ascese as ideally combined with something more properly aldehydic-minimalistic and salty-herbal (yes, partially Escentric Molecules Kinski jumps on mind with its ozonic-dirty side but also several experiments from Humiecki&Graef and Comme des Garcons, as well as bitter-herbal arid twists a la Parfum d'Empire Corsica Furiosa, Rouge Bunny Rouge Tundra, Tauer Lonestar Memories, Les Nombres d'Or Cuir, Profvmum Roma Arso or Testa Maura Carticasi). The whole effect is anyway kind of experimental (and playing the game of contrasts) in a sort of new dimension conjugating the "almost indie and smoky-herbal assertive sticky perfume-wilderness" (the naturalistic side of the moon) with a sort of new post-industrial metropolitain pop olfactive art (urban, by street art inspired, minimalistic-apothecarian, salty-mineral and postmodern). Finally I get this arid-bonfire and kind of vaguely rooty-rocky side which seems in tune with the most daring experiments from houses a la Nu_be or Pekji. It seems to detect in here most of all burnt frankincense, ozonic/metallic/aldehydic molecules, black pepper for sure, hay, earthy notes, mastic, bitter herbs (bitter-resinous-peppery crudeness), leather and smooth-dense darkly green cistus-labdanum. I get different types of smokiness, namely burnt turpentine-plastic-Diavolina (kerosene-paraffin +woody/papery dust), supreme pine's smoky resin, carbonized woods and smokey frankincense, overall combined with grass, woodsy aromatic needles, musks, roots, earth, sort of enamel varnish and polish. Evolution is not laborious but I was expecting it yet by inhaling the top note's first sniff. I find the Noise's aroma quite irresistible and finally "smoothly smoky-creamy herbal"; labdanum provides quite smooth muskiness and pepper (initially pungent) seems kind of diluted in a pleasant silvan (musky-vegetal) amalgam. I get the leather as usual in the overmentioned smoky/herbal concoction's category, a smooth/burnt/piney final leather-trace not so distant from the one I get in Les Nombres d'Or Cuir or Profvmum Arso. Dry down is surprisingly soft, smoothly woody and wearable (after an initially harsh, tart, sticky, profoundly burnt and pungent stage) and I love the way in which all the turbulent elements take their quiet place in a finally tamed (and vaguely freshly/aromatic, aqueous vetiver-conjuring and damp-breezy) amalgam (kind of burnt mastic-dominant, peppery, freshly salty and faintly leathery). Florals? May be just hints of the amazing magnolia which I've admired more markedly in Drone (but in here the florals are subdued as well as the anyway yet present apothecarian vibe). Another peculiar juice from Geza Schoen; it could be appealing to many (looking for something chaotically different and vaguely esoteric) or turn out such like "over the top" (too salty smoky or sticky) but surely Noise will never appear to anybody irrelevant, mainstream or nonsense.
21st May, 2016

Drone by Ephemera by Unsound

Drone is my first approach with the talented alchemic work appointed by the "peculiar" perfumer Geza Schoen (Anat Fritz Tzora, several Escentric Molecules, Clive Christian X for Men, etc) for Ephemera by Unsound. Another futuristic exploration of the multifaceted alchemical universe. Another example of minimalistic post-modern refinement. Inhaling the top notes on skin you are immediately teleported in to a sort of sterile (aldehydic/apothecarian), balsamic, futuristic white ambience, an aseptic-hyperbaric, DDT liquid/repellent-smelling and robotic laboratory (muffled out of time and space), anyway in to something conjugating the most minimalistic Comme des Garcon's experimental icons with the most insolent Escentric Molecule's creative "non-fragrances" and the most aldehydic Andrea Maack's floral experiments (Dark, Silk and Craft, to quote several). Drone is first of all medicinal liquid aldehydic-floral cold "airiness" and is not easy to pick up more appropriate words from my misere english background. Drone is aerial and robotic. This smell is all about medicinal potions, boiling ampoules and tart-lemony floral processed serum-pollen. Floral notes are not listed but I'm sure to detect something as magnolia, freesia, osmanthus or peony, overall waving in to a sort of cold-chemical/aldehydic impersonal molecular chaos. I think to perceive fir resins and something like elemi resin as well (probably is just an illusion as in the famous song). It seems to detect the Andrea Maack Silk's accord of apothecarian floral patterns, aldehydes, lime tree and mineral amber while several magnolia-based accords jump more than vaguely on my moonshiny mind as well (L'Erbolario Magnolia but in to a more "pharmaceutical" and aeronautics-like way). As well as in to the finally frankincense-driven Andrea Maack Craft (cold metal, ice, aldehydes, finally oriented in to a dusty-incensey experience) in here we pick up (anyway without any incesey vibe) this accord of airy notes, aldehydes and aromatic forest's elements which provide a quite mineral-icy ambience kind of "frozen in time". Drone ends down with a more traditional connection of woods (vetiver in here conjures me vaguely the KenzoAir's icy-anisic vetiver) and cold amber which leads finally the aroma in to a more dry-spicy, warmly organic and vegetal territory quite virile and attractive (still manteining anyway its trademark "floral-disinfectant", tart, earthy, vaguely mineral and neutral-pharmaceutical appeal). A fragrance for the lovers of this "aseptic" genre and frankly one of the best in this infamous category.
18th May, 2016 (last edited: 20th May, 2016)

Elements Aqua by Hugo Boss

Forgive me for the plenty of olfactive random quotations but this is the risk when you deal with a super "average" sporty creation. In the same vein as scents a la Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau Male, Pierre Cardin Pour Homme, Lolita Lempicka Au Masculine but also partially Laura Biagiotti Blu di Roma Uomo/Essenza di Roma Uomo, D&G Light Blue, Arabian Oud Gentleman Secret and Prada Luna Rossa this freshly-aromatic-marine accord unfolds an its own particular temperament (provided by a notable ylang-ylang imo) making it to carve its space out further the one mastered by the overmentioned juices (unfortunately it does not prevent it to be another soapy-marine boring little perfume in the ocean of designer mediocrity). I'm surprised to not see the cardamom among the listed notes since this is the feel I pick up immediately on the side of saltiness, pineapple, aromatic-musky lavender, a touch of green crispiness and soapy vanilla. Nothing to share of course with the far superior Boss Elements, probably one of the few "Boss" succeeding attempts together with Boss Bottled (first version), Number One and few others. This is basically an average synth "eau de toilette vitalisante", a new age freshly-salty aromatic fougere rich of aromatic green patterns, exotic fruit (pineapple surely notable), ylang-ylang, coumarine, fluidy spiciness (gingery cardamom I suppose) and final soapy-vanillic-leathery soapiness (kind of bath foam o shower gel). A sort of suedish-orangy and ylang-ylang veined vibe masters the dry down. This is a sporty fragrance for people loving scents a la Chopard Heaven for men or Joop Nightflight (a far, far more appreciable drier olfactory attempt). Along the down the general effect slightly improves under my nose since vanilla is well calibrated and I detect a sharper burnt-licoricey-woody spark which I finally find more virile and elegant (a sun ray cutting the general boredom). A mediocre "after shower" due to prolong (exclusively at home on the coach) the effect of the after-work evening shower.
16th May, 2016 (last edited: 17th May, 2016)

La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme

La Vie Est Belle Lancome smells, in its final wake, like a synth powdery combination of dusty iris, red berries, powdery balsams and praline. Opening is immediately fruity (pear and orange enjoyable in a more specifically spicy-balmy and smothly powdery way). Smelling the wake from a certain distance it seems to catch the aroma of a sort of ideal Dior Homme Intense's fruitiest flanker but after a more focused test you can detect a more propery feminine trait, a fruitier approach and this standout note of praline (nutty, orangy-berrish and powdery) mastering the dry down (in its connection with synth red fruitiness). I detect a certain soapy/floral/suede-oriented muskiness typically sweetish and feminine (sensual) in perfect tune with a sort of ideal (apparent or real?) "Lancomenade" (synthetically berrish and musky suede-oriented) which I frankly don't crave for and that I pick up as well in scents as Hypnose Homme to quote one from the same brand. There is in particular a synth (kind of oppressive, darkly berrish, tart and plastic) vibe which I detect in several feminine Paco Rabanne's (as Black Excess for her) or in various dark accords a la Renato Balestra Diamante Nero (but in a softer, less patchouli-veined and less gloomy way). In its complex the juice is acceptable (while lingering in the more powerfully synth range) but nothing providing a real sense of class, articulation or mystery to a woman with the goal of impressing the onlookers with a personal olfactory status.
15th May, 2016

Roccobarocco Extraordinary for Men by Roccobarocco

Roccobarocco Extraordinary Men is a nowadays "ordinary" freshly intoxicating (cool/warm) mix of synthetic elements (hesperides, spices, resinous elements and patchouli). Sweet, freshly creamy, earthy and spicy. This juice waves in the same league with scents as Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy Men, Paco Rabanne One Million (a better example), Ted Lapidus Black Soul, Cuba Paris Cuba Gold or stuffs like those. Cinnamon and nutmeg in notable amount are chaotically combined with white resins, sweet vanilla, powdery patchouli and citric grapefruit (a touch of sweet tobacco as well ?). Luxurious? Real luxury demands velvety complexity (and this one is not the specific case). Well, I'd say yummy, semi-gourmand, sticky and somewhat inebriating. Frankly a too much synthetic and monolithic juice for my full pleasure.
11th May, 2016 (last edited: 12th May, 2016)

Punjab by Roberto Capucci

A masterwork of pure nostalgic bliss, a gentlemanly universe in a disappeared bottle, objective heaven under my fugitive nose in tuxedo. I don't resign myself to a vulgar olfactive decline. Where are your ensigns of classy refinement? A spray on my skin and I see the royal streets of the "early 900's" Vienna, learned and aristocratic in its ontological loftiness. Probably I'm by now tired to pick up plenty of bombastic words from my old moonshiny top hat so I will be almost short in prose. Punjab is pure masculine chypre poetry and one of the greatest olfactory representatives of a disappeared golden age so distant from the hodiernal common olfactory chemical banality.
Actually, if you seriously appreciate aldehydic/powdery/mossy/waxy/sharply floral classic pillars a la Oleg Cassini Men, Visconti di Modroni Tabacco d'Harar, vintage Arrogance Pour Homme, original Denim, Geo F. Trumper Eucris, Aramis Devin, Monsieur Rochas, Helmut Lang Cologne, Moustache Rochas, Captain de Molyneux, Hermes Equipage, Balenciaga Portos and "aromatic stuffs" like those, well you can't go wrong with Punjab. This old Capucci's smells like a radiant, piney, herbal-hesperidic, aromatic/barber-shop and retro mélange of animalic/honeyed amber, wax, sharp floral notes, musks, roots, resins from the deep mountain's forests, aromatic hesperides, castoreum, aldehydes and woods, overall encompassed by an almost liturgical and moldy spicy-incensey blanket. Geranium and carnation master the scene as well as encompassed by a glaring/dazzling vintage "northern light" rich of aldehydes, balsamic resins, barber-shop aromatics, stiff patchouli, moss, leather, powdery woods and wax. A carnation/geranium bomb, a balsamic-waxy-aldehydic juice, a softly leathery-honeyed dry down. Overall the trip is a virile/animalic experience full of tradition, severity, culture, manneristic ambiences and perfect balance. A left back disappeared universe piercing in depth this old nostalgic heart of mine.

P.S: the obscurely mossy-leathery and ambery (but still soapy-airy at same time) Punjab's dry down is quite close to the final wake of a following (posterior in inception) fragrance which I quite love, namely that discontinued Enrico Coveri Pour Homme whereof creation has been possibly influenced by this earlier great piece of classicism from Capucci. Gucci Nobile is another juice jumping on mind as well for several of its characteristics.
10th May, 2016 (last edited: 11th May, 2016)

Eau de Néroli Doré by Hermès

Boring mediocrity. I'm not a fan of "art deco eau de cologne style" creations (symbol of a disappeared gentlemanly "golden" era) but if cologne must be I surely demand (for my pleasure) redolent-natural aromatic/bracing combinations, exactly what this Hermes nostalgic juice hardly could smell like on whichever kind of skin. Try Askett&English Askett Absolute and test effectively on skin what a "serious" neroli/orange blossoms spicy accord means. Eau de Neroli Dore is a typical "eau de cologne in style" neo-vintage concoction (created by Jean Claude Ellena), a juice which strikes us for soporific dullness and excess of synthetic. A powerful rush of neroli, a bitter green indiscernible addition and a faint "allegedly golden" spritz of saffron, nothing else (no citrus, aromatic herbs, floral notes, woods or musks). I'm not as slater as several reviewers around the net but I don't see any reason to recommend this anonymous fragrance to my best friend (in the meanwhile I profite of this space to tell him: Franco, you need immediately a makeover, hurry up please). Faint (almost diaphane) duration on my "criminal" skin.
08th May, 2016

Infusion Noire by Hervé Gambs

Arrogantly spicy Herve Gambs Infusion Noire smells on my skin like an ideal mix between Tom Ford Noir, Jacques Zolty by Jacques Zolty and Nasomatto Pardon but overall in a way more oriented towards a sort of cosmetical frankincense kind of finally waxy-chypre and cedary. It lasts unfortunately just a flash on my skin. Lavender, may be cypress, aromatic herbs, star anise and pepper unfold a sort of mineral-herbal-camphoraceous-earthy-rooty (vaguely minty) background counteracted by a more "substantial" (massive and mild) resinous-spicy presence much more "twisted" on the darkly oriental side of the moon. The notes are listed in here just in part since dry down is much denser than it could "sounds like" by taking a look to the declared notes. Woods, forest resins, frankincense, tonka, nutmeg and may be hints of synth ambergris/oakmoss manage to settle down a richer base quite spicy and neo-chypre/semi-oriental in style. Interesting scent but basically "nothing new under the sun".
08th May, 2016

Uomo Intense by Valentino

Valentino Uomo earlier (original) version follows the Dior Homme Intense/L'Instant de Guerlain Extreme's semi-gourmand trend (in particular the LIDGE's nutty, chocolatey, freshly cedary twist, but also the Dior Homme Intense's chocolatey/leathery "shadow"). This Intense "black leather/iris oriented" version basically plays in to a darker, less nutty-chocolatey, more powdery and leathery-velvety "soapy-cosmetical" way. Iris joins the black leather in to a velvety-chic, pop-synthetic and enigmatic way. Yes, the nutty cappuccino's vibe is subdued (almost technically replaced) while the wake is stouter/intenser and more leather-oriented. Leather is effectively more central and catalyzing while I detect a more properly woody/herbal lingering background. The juice is kind of languid and "glamour" along the Dior Homme Parfum/Givenchy Very Irresistible for men's previously delineated "milky way". Finally I prefer this drier and silkier flanker despite I'm not crazy for this kind of Valentino's trend-following "project".
07th May, 2016

Tuberose by L'Erbolario

An excellent but sadly discontinued floral bouquet from L'Erbolario with a rich and vibrant tuberose's dominant presence, overall surrounded by a general musky-fruity chic aura. Really sensual, feminine and inebriant scent. It seems to detect hints of neroli, rose (providing a touch of delicacy), ylang-ylang and a sort of peachy kind of well calibrated fruitiness as well. The comparison with Versace Blonde and Piguet Fracas is somewhat excessive but L'Erbolario Tuberose is surely a mature and solid take on the sensual floral theme. A pity it's out of market at moment.
05th May, 2016