Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant


Carven Homme (original) by Carven

Pure balance and kaleidoscopic airy sophistication. A light but surprisingly "presenceful" fragrance, a masterfully crafted combination of musks, wooods, leather/tobacco and "lymphatic" floral notes. Carven Homme is indeed an excellent green-woody aromatic composition really multifaceted and rich of nuances. There is a silky herbal-woody-floral substance which ideally connects this fragrance to Gucci Envy for Men (Humiecki&Graef Askew in part) and even more (under my nose) to further creations as the classic Nino Cerruti, Romeo Gigli Sud Est, Trussardi Action Uomo (just in part) and Canali Men.
The Envy Men's reference is frankly quite moderate to me since, apart the common spicy-herbal opening, Envy Men deflects soon towards a more marked resinous-vanillic, constantly anisic and gingery patchouli (finally quite spicy-musky and vanillic) while Carven Homme holds of its extremely balanced, sharp and woody accord of aromatic/green and woody notes, finally embellished by a soapy-floral and musky wake, with its twist of fresh balmy tobacco, velvety soft leather and soapy-floral facets. Envy Men is finally glamour-lush, mastered by this fluidy accord of anise/cardamom and anisic-spicy-vanillic while Carven Homme is still a sharp woody floral with a light leather presence and a fresh lavender-tobacco touch that finally deflects towards a balanced level of exotic floral soapiness (coming straight from the tobacco's freshly balmy rendition). Anyway woods (patchouli as well), herbal/aromatic elements, tobacco and floral notes (geranium in particular, may be violet and cyclamen too) are in here dominant over whatever resinous or balmy-vanillic ingredient.
This fragrance is really excellent guys. There is an aura of freshly exotic distinction around the wearer and the aroma smells about soapy-spicy leather/tobacco, fresh lavender, cedarwood, herbal muskiness and sharp floral twists (I point out to catch almost exclusively geranium). Frankly I detect zero points of connection with Jaipur Homme, apart may be a vague touch of fresh cinnamonic powder. This fragrance is surprisingly versatile and easy to wear and provides an aura of great discreet distinction (and subtle sophistication) around the wearer (a dynamic and casual-elegant type of lifely man). Lavender (coriander as well) is a key note providing around a sharply cool and airy vibe, a perfect background for tobacco and leather. Extreme quality of ingredients which perform in a light, "fragrant" and freshly realistic way. The combination of musk, vanilla, silky (leathery) tobacco and floral notes "nails down" a status of extreme sophistication which plays a sort of modern-chic spark (an undertone) enriching a woody-herbal main accord. Highly recommended, expecially for all those living in sultry type of climates and love smelling always musky and clean in a perfectly balanced way.
04th August, 2015

Notes by Robert Piguet

Despite its evident lack of originality this modern fragrance is surely daring and well appointed, perfect for a charming "clothed in white-linen suit" south-american business man, constantly rolling around for restaurants, meeting places, Grand Hotels and lounge bars. Robert Piguet Notes is a minty and balmy-floral chypre (with a classic fougere approach) which, re-interpreting a quite successful aromatic formula, actually sounds as an indeal olfactory encounter between scents a la Faconnable by Faconnable, Ted Lapidus Black Soul, Krizia Spazio Uomo, Ungaro III and Jacques Bogart Silver Scent (partially Bogart Pour Homme as well). Synthetic soapiness is quite under control (finally kind of talky, woody powdery and minty violet-veined), sweetness is at fair level (actually balanced by a kind of organic and simil-leathery "saltiness") and the spiciness is velvety, finally somewhat piquant and well calibrated. "Stuffs" like mint, musks, coriander, clary sage and lavender (the latter not listed) represent an aromatic and slightly (classically) barber-shop introduction ready to merge its fresh substance with a more soapy, floral, musky and exotic ambery (ambroxan)-tonkinian backbone. Bergamot/lavender, tonka, oakmoss and geranium provide an immediately classic (classically fougere) angular approach which turns out by soon in a minty-balmy intoxicating way characterized by neroli, exotic spices, "colonial" vetiver and balmy tonka. Vetiver is extremely classy, "minty-tropical" and alluring. The note of mint is daring, fascinating and "spacious" with all its own aromatic and intriguing spiciness conjuring me Krizia Spazio (and vaguely the classic Carlo Corinto and Carlo Corinto Silver) especially before that a soapy-tonkinian dry down starts embracing the elements in to a comforting musky embrace. Frankly I love the way in which Notes preserves its average sharpness despite its intriguing light balminess (substantially in a middle way between talkiness, powder and soapiness). A medium rating just for its lack of uniqueness despite on my skin this fragrance is the best interpretation of the aforementioned yet classic formula. Moderate sillage, good longevity.

P.S: Dry down is pretty good, really spicy, resinous-aromatic, kind of more "restrained", luxurious and virile (in a sort of amberish and "dirty-sweated" way). I detect a sort of rubbery/salty/ambery/nutty vibe surrounded by piquant spices, clary sage and kind of birch tar (or aromatic spices in general).

P.S 2: I disagree about the assumed short evolution of this fragrance and the deep dry down is finally on my skin really close to the Ungaro III's base notes, being it so nutty-tonkinian, mossy, woody-rosey, spicy-rooty, "by vetiver-influenced" and mossy-amberish. Ungaro III and Piguet Notes (which is anyway initially different, more minty-aromatic and spicy) share indeed a lot of notes as oakmoss, clary sage, vetiver, geranium, rosewood, amber, coriander, mild spices, aromatic patterns, neroli, bergamot, etc etc.
02nd August, 2015 (last edited: 03rd August, 2015)

Paradis Perdu by Frapin

Frapin Paradise Perdu strikes me immedialtely for its initially elicited flashback evocative about the vintage Guerlain Vetiver. The extraordinary note of vetiver appears indeed by soon (but just for a few minutes) heady, spicy, "kind of tobacco veined", smooth and exotic before that a really rural-citric-cedary-agrestic (but still spicy-fluidy) power a la Terre d'Hermes takes the stage with its baggage of tartness, leafiness and earthiness. Vetiver is still central but appearing now richer, more musky-floral, woody and green. The greenness is extremely aromatic and clearly influenced by a remarkably temperamental basil's presence. Basil is in here central as citrus and vetiver. Hay reinforces the cedary feel while I suppose the presence of spinaches "nails down" the general earthiness (dark and mossy). I find this stage simply amazing and full of effectively realistic nuances of a sort of ideal georgic (almost fairy-silvan) hidden universe full of ancient trees, immaculate fresh streams, dark caves, musks and green meadows. The stroke of genius is represented by the note of vine which enhances the natural viney-metallic feel of vetiver. The aroma insists aromatic, vetiver-centered, sour (central mandarine and lime) and progressively more oily-resinous and spicy. If you are in the woodsy-agrestic-boise aromas you can't miss this little gem. Despite its rural nature this fragrance is really dignified and structured, somewhat elegant and sober. One of the wildest (earthy, virile, almost organic) but at same time finally (paradoxically) civilized (musky-mossy) vetivers around. A quite virile and distinguished fragrance really daring and perfect for all the seasons. Pure olfactory nostalgia for a disappeared natural dimension. Excellent masterwork by Amelie Bourgeois for Frapin.
29th July, 2015
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Santal Royal by Guerlain

A modern classic. Nostalgia about the great velvety french/italian chypre. Guerlain Santal Royal is an amazing resinous-fruity/floral sandalwood's rendition straight from this glorious french maison still preserving nowadays its "Grandeur" despite the new "financial" management. A modern sandalwood's rendition really far from the classic straightforward woody "saltals" around. Santal Royal strikes soon for its balmy-musky (almost lipstick)- floral contemporary sophistication running a really delicious woody rendition which is anyway at once "soaked" of classicism. Is like the hyper modern floral-musky-resinous recipes from Francis Kurkdjian or Laurent Bruyere meet the more traditional chypre french/italian school. In here woodiness is never gassy or plastic-cedary but more properly darkly resinous, rosey, specifically balmy and softly leathery. Rose is heady by soon and provides a classic twist of victorian western diaphane classicism paired to a mystic coexistent oriental (leathery-resinous) wake extremely balmy-floral and vaguely fruity (simil-berrish). Jasmine grows up gradually and royal. There is a wonderful balanced contrast between oriental mystery (from candied delicious oudh, never bitter or medicinal) and the luminous floral notes of rose and jasmine (as joined by light spices and secret fruity patterns). I detect something lacteous, waxy and musky-plummy-floral in the resinous mix, a touch of amber and incense, overall in a combination vaguely conjuring me the resinous Armani Onde Mystere's musky-rosey accord (the latter anyway lighter, earthier and more fluidy). It seems to catch in the air (as olfactory undertone) a minimal touch of earthiness, hints of hesperides, ghostly aldehydes, a touch of "barber-shop" and a final tad of classically rendered oakmoss (I get indeed vague elements in common with classic masterworks from V&A, Fendi, Estee Lauder or Versace while even modern chypre renditions as Tom Ford Arabian Wood jump vaguely on mind for several of their modernly classic hallmarks). The note of oudh, yet synthetic, is fantastically rendered (always creamy-musky and spicy). The orange-cinnamon accord (intense, kind of berrish and penetrating) reinforces the almost edible widespread fruitiness and the general voluptuousness of the creation. Leather rises up gradually and softly (it seems soft and silky-velvety leather-suede more than classically stout or animalic leather), graciously complementing balmy sandalwood and exalting floral notes and subtle plummines (peaches, plums, apricots??). The deliciously balmy dry down is pure orangy-plummy resinous bliss. Velvety mystic deliciousness from Guerlain.

P.S: at the very end of the run the Santal Royal's agarwood starts to be kind of "volatile and molecular", something rare, rosey, spicy and light a la Heeley Agarwood or Maria Lux Deeply (but in a less gourmandish way), still with this intense orangy-peachy fruitiness which is anyway never fleshy but basically dry and airy.

P.S 2: finally sandalwood turns out more evident and ordinary but still soft, fruity and vaguely leathery.
27th July, 2015 (last edited: 28th July, 2015)

Dark Fresh by Desigual

Desigual Dark Fresh combines, in to a really spicy-resinous salty/mild accord, a quite sparkling and citric opening (by soon enriched by herbal notes, seaweeds and musk) with a basic dark accord of synthetic oakmoss, woods from the forest and ambergris. The resinous spiciness, as combined with woods, provides a kind of cedary-ozonic dissonant undertone (something weirdly salty and balmy-woody). Going on down the way a balmy woodiness and a vaguely acid-lemony marine feel solidify their "mainstream" connection lasting till the end of the trip. Seaweeds and saltiness take anyway gradually the stage as absolute protagonists as enriched by a typically cedary temperament. Anyway overall is enveloped by a rich blanket of mild spiciness (even more balmy and mild in conflict with saltiness) in to a sort of bombastic accord a la L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Oceanic Expedition as ideally combined with the finally balmy-spicy-leathery La Nuit d'Issey (without the crispy-piquant-aromatic vibe and without the leathery accord which anyway is slightly present in here yet). A maistream new creation (basically neither dark nor fresh) in line with the contemporary trend.
26th July, 2015 (last edited: 27th July, 2015)

I'm Trendy by Sweet Years

I'm Trendy Sweet Years for Men, with its "heavy metal street flighters" flacon, smells surprisingly aromatic and piquant. It combines the Faconnable by Faconnable's minty aromatic approach with a more mainstream and virile (rosey) accord of amberish-tonkinian leather/patchouli a la One Million or stuffs like that. I get also a sort of CK Euphoria-Lancetti IL-Spazio di Krizia's spicy-cool semi-oriental aura and vague metallic-aquatic-fresh pattens a la Lolita Lempicka Au Masculine. Really spicy, I suppose cloves, cinnamon and a touch of cardamom providing fluidity. Leather finally is dominant as combined with sweet spicy-aromatic elements and a calonic-metallic (vaguely citric-aquatic) undertone. In conclusion, nothing new, a typically synthetic juvenile appealing stuff but something averagely pleasant under my nose.
23rd July, 2015

Acqua di Giò Profumo by Giorgio Armani

Aqua di Gio' Profumo combines a perfectly balanced and conceptually "eastern" aquatic accord (actually more a la L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme and Bvlgari Aqva Pour Homme than to a la classic Acqua di Gio) with a kind of "silent/muffled/mystic" sort of smoky dustiness (a la Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme) really aromatic, grey, woodsy, hyper refined and sharp. I detect a profoundly sharp and more than vaguely fumed accord of dust (black pepper, a touch of dried simil frankincense??), cypress, dry woods and earthy floral notes which is fully "fancy", modern and charming. An idea of minimal and sober fresh elegance of the new Millennium. Geranium, rosemary and marine notes are heady and perfectly combined. Despite its infamous genre we can't deny this is a temendously classy and modern creation.
23rd July, 2015

Pierre Cardin pour Homme by Pierre Cardin

Pierre Cardin Pour Homme starts freshly aromatic, cedary and vaguely calonic (salty fruity and with a sort of grapefruit/mellon-like feel) in order to morph down a classic soapy accord of tonka and cedarwood. This fragrance combines all the contemporary mainstream vibes (salty-ozonic, cedary, ambery-tonkinian) but in a really balanced though synthetic way. Actually sillage is almost "unreported" while longevity is more than good. Really discreet fragrance. Somewhat anonymous.
22nd July, 2015

Sheikh Abdul Samad Al Qurashi Blend by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

Sheikh Abdul Samad Al Qurashi Blend is actually an austere "kind of ritual" moldy aroma more than properly an "accomplished" structural veritable fragrance. Is important to nail down this truth, we cannot get round this fact in its substance, a potion (yet marvellously natural) not always steps on the status of articulated fragrance. You should appreciate this type of potion if completely focused over the seasoned-aged affair. This is an almost unwearable fragrance, a stuff decidedly esoteric in its smoked animalic ancestral substance. Unfortunately I don't get a satisfactory level of "artisanal" structure, no floral molecules and an almost absent evolution. On the contrary the general aroma is stout, profound, doping and almost hypnotic, a scent of bonfire and dark seasoned woods. Not enough to root down a real masterwork of perfumery, in any case. The combination of aged (hyper natural) agarwood oil, black musk, leather and wild ambergris (despite well balanced) exhales an ancestral fume overly gloomy, stable, dirty and smoky. I get the "smoked-fur" effect on my skin, obscure woodiness, dark (pleasantly smoother along the way) resins, warm saltiness and almost no more. Ambergris is the element of real interest with its salty-spicy-aromatic warmth. I get the stale aroma of antique leather and mustiness coming from an old wooden store hidden somewhere down a basement or a cellar. Finally I ideally visualize on my visionary mind just prehistoric caves, burning fires, primordial men minimally covered by bear's furs and dry animalic leather. I've heard the wolves howling there in the obscure forest, a dark moon is the phantasm of my agony.
P.S: gradually, along the dry down, the smell becomes more and more rubbery (gummy-leathery), like a sort of darker and smokier Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia.
21st July, 2015

Pohadka by YS Uzac

YS Uzac Pohadka opens freshly grassy in a way more than vaguely conjuring several Oriza L. Legrand's synthetically botanic performances. The note of immoretelle is heady in the top, with all its charge of aromatic earthiness and anisic grassiness. The first blast is indeed slightly medicinal, ostensibly (fluidy) cardamomish, leafy and aldehydic, not without a sort of "harsh hay/tobacco-veined" vaguely citric (and since now slightly leathery) undertone. The listed note of tobacco is indeed hyper dry and licorice veined but it gradually evolves in a more linear, soapy and fluidy way (spicy, airy, barely laundry, leathery and slightly exotic). Anyway in its complex the aroma is stiff and green (finally not more grassy but freshly musky-soapy) but still veined by this dry tobacco's feel (the latter still alive despite a touch of white balminess and a faint sophisticated floral spark). Along the base notes leather emerges combined with a "woods-tobacco" agreement and with the musky soapiness but the general accord is frankly flat and somewhat uninspired. The final muskiness is galaxolide-centered, chemical, "green tea-like driven" and un-realistic. The aroma goes fading quickly on my skin. Longevity and projection are almost "ghostly". Negligible, not my cup of tea.
20th July, 2015

Tudor by Coquillete Paris

Coquillette Paris Tudor opens with an angular accord of earthy geranium, orange blossoms and intense lily of the valley (leafy and profoundly floral) in order to gradually lose its vegetal crispiness and finally slide towards a rosey twist of musky vanilla and balmy sandalwood, really exotic (tonka) and languid. Several scents of the past jump more than vaguely on mind (overall musky and balmy-rosey), starting from the glorious Jean Paul Gaultier Classique (I'd add also Lancome Poeme because of its fairy balmy-floral romantic vibe) and going on with more recent releases a la Elie Saab Parfum (honeyed musky rose and orange blossoms). I detect a typical accord of tonka and orange blossoms (a la Gaultier Fleur du Male) in which the element of tonka (combined with creamy woods, musk, orange blossoms and rose) elicits a more than vague sort of balmy tobacco's effect. The general atmosphere is diaphane, fairy, slightly silvan and magic and I catch a sort of Francis Kurkdjian's kind of landmark all around. Actually Tudor is not overly synthetic on my skin and I find it more than decent (in the vanilline/ambroxan/galaxolide-centered range) despite I can't deny its lack of originality and the final conventional musky-rosey vein. The final aroma is delicate and vaguely lipstick-like but with a floral sophisticated twist really glamour and contemporary.
19th July, 2015

V by Avery

Avery V, namely another variation of the "fruity-balmy woodiness"'s theme (not so distant from R or especially E from the same brand). While E (with its plummy-balmy-leatherish accord) is more leaning towards the Fahrenheit 32/One Million's side (powdery-creamy pattens, leather, balmy fruitiness, woods) V smells less balmy-powdery and sharper (despite yet fruity, airy and vaguely dusty-benzoinic). Grapefruit and peaches (joined to orange or mandarine I suppose) provide a sharper (more bitter-fizzy) feel while dry down smells more powdery-eliotropic-fruity (with a tart sort of fruity vibe) than kind of creamy plummy-berrish (as we experienced with E). Anyway V is another Avery's juice not properly in my tunes despite I can't say it smells unpleasant or obnoxious. Coriander provides a touch of "spaciousness" (like in a sort of fruitier ideal Bvlgari Man Extreme) while all the aroma is about peachy-spicy woodiness with pale floral accents. A fancy kind of concoction really versatile, virile and temperamental. A tad sultry-brash and surely projectful and unapologetic, this fragrance could admittedly turn out really appealing to crowd. Just not for me.
16th July, 2015

Y by Avery

Y is another unconvincing aromatic piece from the Avery collection. Unfortunately it seems people behind this emerging brand is straining themself in the aim to follow and reproduce the "mainstream", to re-propose (apparently or partially in disguise) the main current olfactory cliché out there. Sometimes they manage to create something vaguely interesting (think for instance at the piquant-aromatic aquatic experiment appointed by Avery R) while sometimes we can basically experience just a pale new sort of Fahrenheit 32 or One Million (think at Avery E for instance). Y introduces a "yet runned" (and really really woody-resinous) main accord of rose, saffron, aromatic patterns and resins-oudh which seems to be a new status for dozens of new perfumed experiments out there (for instance Dueto Parfums City Oud, several Mancera's, scents a la One Million or far superior accords a la Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh). Anyway in here the woodiness is particularly deep, really cedary (pencil shaving like) and intense with a sort of pungent metallic vibe provided by coffee beans and the lily of the valley/geranium's co-work (with their sharply intense floral-botanic effect). It seems (just apparently I suppose) finally to get a sort of almost calonic undertone and the powerful woodiness is freshly aromatic (vaguely gassy) with several Bulgari Man Extreme-like's facets (just to give an idea despite the Bvlgari's one smells finally more light, aromatic and articulated. I would quote as well L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Oceanic Expedition for its intensely synthetic acid woodiness). Unfortunately I don't get a great evolution, the aroma seems linear, pungent-woody-metallic-melancholic, vaguely ambery (woody-resinous) and mainstream. Actually I'm tending more and more to dislike these sort of synthetic gassy-pungent woody accords so this fragrance can't be for sure my cup of tea, anyway even if this is your genre I recommend you to test Y before buying it or anyway to stick to more satisfactory takes on the same theme.
15th July, 2015
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Cuba Orange by Cuba Paris

A sort of ideal blend of Paloma Picasso Minotaure, YSL L'Homme Parfum Intense, Cigar Remy Latour and Dunhill Red Desire. Clean, dry and soapy. A barely creamy synthetic blend of woods, spices, tobacco and orange blossoms. Decently appointed and affordable. Smells delicate, balanced and close to skin. Dry down is spicy, exotic and virile. I detect a final touch of patchouli. Never overly sweet and this is a great quality. Cuba Orange is nice choice if you are on a law budget while you are looking for a really appealing juice for the women around.
14th July, 2015

Acqua di More by L'Erbolario

L'Erbolario Acqua di More is a fresh musky accord of red berries and fruits from the forest smelling deep, green and juicy. More than decently orchestrated and with a "fairy tale" sort of "enchanted aura" (which I detect far more in here than in more quoted takes on the same boise theme as for instance The Vagabond Prince Enchanted Forest). It opens humid, citric and almost fizzy while gradually starts fading in to a more restrained and musky/mossy stuff with earthy, green, leafy and vaguely floral accents. The synthetic level in under control. The general aroma is exquisite (if you appreciate red/black berries and intense fruitiness in general) and really fruity-vegetal. It seems to detect sandalwood along dry down. Great duration and good projection. This fragrance is really close to L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc which is anyway more structured in its complex. Acqua di more does not possess a complex structure and a laborious evolution but is more than pleasant and well balanced. Not bad.
13th July, 2015

Lautunno by O'Driù

O' Driu' Lautunno is an olfactory tribute to Santo Versace by Angelo Orazio Pregoni and is supposedly appointed with the aim to evoke several aromatic "facets" from the Versace's (and mine at once) wild homeland, the "boisterous" Calabria, a fashinating land rich of deep contrasts. Yellow/brown (with green glares) is the colour of the juice. Lautunno's opening is wonderfully compelling, slightly resinous, slightly organic, salty-sweet and humid, really humid. It seems to detect an accord of "liquid spices" (cloves, cinnamon, a touch of ginger??), fruity tea and wet tobacco leaves as supported by aromatic herbs (vaguely medicinal), citrus (orange, mandarine??), "saltiness" and a tad of woodsy smokiness joined to booziness. Great, really great and at once by soon wearable. Echoes from several Pregoni's creations a la Peety and Laurhum jump more than vaguely on (my) mind. Lautunno (L'autunno= the fall season) is in here conjured in its complexity of spicy culinary aromas and herbal brewages. I detect a touch of bitter licorice's vibe joined with something vaguely liquorous (than herbal, sort of italian vermout/amaro's far nuance), bitter shells, a touch of edible balsams, ozonic-marine molecules and woods. Overall seems salty/sweet, spicy (vaguely piquant), kind of culinary and spicy-liquorous with a spark of floral nuances. Could be possible that the humid spiciness gives me an ostensible impression of booziness. I'm surprised about the way this partially culinary accord morphs gradually down towards something more refined, dry (yes slightly toasted), "accomplished" (according with more mature olfactory parameters) and structural. I don't know if the saltiness is properly something provided by a (eventually minimal in intensity) marine accord but it seems to grow up gradually on my skin in perfect harmony with aromatic woodsiness and sweet-spicy (finally smoother) elements. Really great, honestly a wonderful creation, just hope of having been able to catch at least a part of the secret congeries of not listed elements (of course overall I quote is something I suppose to catch on my skin, so it could be just an illusorial impression). A really refined fragrance, a scent at same time wild and baroquely lascivious on my skin. More than stout duration on my skin.
P.S: after 4-5 hours the scent morphs down towards really classic territories. A scent, a giant of classicism, jumps in a while on my mind and it is the great Gianfranco Ferre For Man, since the deep dry down smells on my skin mossy, spicy-earthy, kind of smooth vetiver-veined, woody, warmly organic (castoreum?) and kind leather-nuanced.
12th July, 2015

E by Avery

Well, E by Avery is a really "projectful" fragrance. This is indeed the kind of powerfully temperamental perfume for people which wish to herald "in advance" their upcoming presence by a strongly penetrating fruity/sweet synthetic accord. A few keywords in order to figure on your mind the aroma of this perfume: Fahrenheit 32, Paco Rabanne One Million and Gaultier Fleur du Male, with all the differences between these yet quoted fragrances and despite E performs an its own peculiar temperament (less creamy and more liquid-citric). I get a plain rich "red/dark" spicy fruitiness almost juicy in the opening and by soon veined by this sort of gassy/aromatic sweetly spicy woodiness. I detect a central accord set by berrish plummines, powdery-resinous (vaguely vanillic) iris and a basic sort of "white" leatherish/simil tobacco "connection", overall anyway "crossed" by a liquid-fresh (typically fougere) herbal-citric freshness with kind of salty/metallic mecules (a combination more than vaguely conjuring the Kiton Black's sweet-salty-herbal main accord. I detect a touch of ozone too). The leather is just a final synthetic vein never stout, mastering or realistic. I get further floral notes (freesia in particular) and a notable presence of aromatic herbs (kind of slightly earthy) and grapefruit/citrus (fresh, bold and sparkling). This "fresh" vibrant presence seems to finally prevail over woodiness, balsams and leather. E seems to be the type of fragrance (sweet, penetrating, sparkling, strong, virile, smart) usually worn by this fancy "greasy hairs" athletic brash boys from the outskirts ready to hook the "chicks" around for trendy venues of the city in the week end. Not my cup of tea anyway.
10th July, 2015

R by Avery

R is my first approach with the brand of Avery and in spite of its infamous genre (an aromatic woody concoction with its detectable, though not dominant, marine accord) I have to point out that the scent is well appointed though not properly original. First of all the marine presence is never overwhelming despite I can't define it as properly accessorial. Overall the aroma is set over this piquant-fizzy (mandarine, oregano and pepper) and aromatic (a plain fir resin's presence) accord of fresh woody elements (a cool synthetic and citric cedarwood a la Bvlgari Man Extreme combined with intenser sandalwood) and ozonic-ambery (virile and angular) patterns in a way performing a freshly floral juice rich of spicy-pungent nuances. Peppermint, aromatic culinary herbs and oregano in particular grant a sort of dry piquancy well combined with floral and aromatic "presences" in order to exude a variegate and multifaceted spicy-fruitiness. Unfortunately I detect the nowadays mainstream synthetic "gassy-woodiness" which I tend to dislike and that is (under my nose) subsiding a more pleasant muskiness (which I'd have enjoyed as performing in a more temperamental way). Despite not listed I detect a floral presence (neroli?) which is tendent towards an orangy gracious vibe. Anyway I appreciate the "shyness" of the marine accord compared to a dominant sort of spicy-molecular (kind of dusty, a touch of frankincense??) chord of lavender (or aromatic greens more in general), oregano, ambergris and cypress (I suppose) not so distant from a similar accord I detect (but in that case deprived from the marine accord) in scents a la Jacques Zolty and Amouage Interlude Man. Along dry down the power of mandarine tends to slightly recede (together with the ozonic vibe) and the aroma is all about this peppery-dusty accord of virile synthetic ambergris, oregano and drier woodiness (sharp roots, a touch of dry tobacco??). I recommend this juice to all those men which, yet appreciating a touch of ozonic, dislike those senseless boring mainstream metallic "summer waters".
10th July, 2015

Baby Angels : Happy Baby by House of Matriarch

The more I test the Christi Meshell's creations appointed for House of Matriarch the more I become an addicted passionate of this dodgy indie-like genuine american perfume factory. Natural ingredients, balance and creativity are a religious must of the house. I don't know a lot about the Happy Baby's ingredients despite I'm quite sure to detect for instance powdery woods, amber, vetiver, resins, floral notes and aromatic spices to spot a bunch; the point is how much these ingredients (hyper natural, visceral, penetrating) smell good and involving for spirit and senses. I don't have news about the concept behind Happy Baby but I suppose (at least it plays in this way in my imagination) this fragrance is aimed to reproduce the powdery-talky (and at same time organic) aroma of the freshly moisturized and cleaned baby skin. The aroma is comforting and evocative, warm and sensual. It seems that a pheromonical attracting power exudes a piquant sensuality which exhales from my skin and elevates gradually the soul. Basically Happy Baby is an high quality dry amber-woods accord extremely carnal and with accents of vetiver, balsams, something vaguely almondy and spicy-floral. Animalic resins enhance the organic kind of ancestral vibe but in the meanwhile floral notes and spices provide a subtle and sophisticated undertone more than vaguely glamour-chic. Resins are anyway not properly dark or "flamboyant" but translucent and whitely arcane a la M. P. et Gantier Ambre Precieux or Montale Blue Amber. I get a touch of "liquor-medicinal" and hints of hesperides. Dry down is like the aroma of intensely clean skin previously moisturized by a wonderful balmy bath foam.
08th July, 2015 (last edited: 10th July, 2015)

Ferrari Essence Musk by Ferrari

Ok, Ferrari Essence Musk is a mainstream fruity ozonic concoction with a first salty-fruity-minty stage close to dozens aquatics out there but the sharper dry down is mastered by this spicy and manly amber presence (supported by cool musky cedarwood) really piquant, bold and simil-organic. Extremely virile ozonic aroma absolutely not over chemical in perception. Watermelon, citrus and lavender are heady together with musk and synthetic spicy ambergris. Good performances in general. I get alikeness with many juices out there as for instance L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Oceanic Expedition or Bond N. 9 I love NY for Fathers (but in general with dozens of sporty Lacoste, Tacchini, Bvlgari, Armani, Adidas or stuffs like those) but Essence Musk is really one of the best in its genre (finally warmer, musky-spicy and refined). I detect a really "smart/fancy/greasy" aura around the wearer. In conclusion, a more than decent musky ozonic creation, cute bottle, not my cup of tea unfortunately.
07th July, 2015 (last edited: 08th July, 2015)

Sumatera by Coquillete Paris

Have you ever tried the "typically american" cinnamon-based "piquant" chewing-gums? Well, actually Coquiette Paris Sumatera smells quite close to it, especially in its first stage (despite stage is not the appropriate word). I detect a huge presence of aromatic-resinous (somewhat minty) cinnamon, molecular piquant pepper, a vague patchouli and a final nondescript soothing musky-vanillic aromachemical oriented accord. This fragrance is candied and senseless in my humble opinion. No refinement, no structure, actually a pale "body" scent for young cheerful guys. Actually I detect more musky vanilla than patchouli and frankly I'm quite unable to catch floral notes (repeat, any trace of refinement or floral subtleness under my nose). Overall seems flat and cloudy, as surrounded by this senseless minty piquancy. Sumatera possesses a sort of childish fairy "gummy" aura which could be appealing for young teen agers at a costume party, nothing more apart that. Not for me.
07th July, 2015

Periplo by L'Erbolario

Periplo (together with scents as Corteccia, Magnolia or Vetiver de la Reunion, to quote just a little bunch) is another example of averagely synthetic "decent quality" craftsmanship at the fair cost from the italian brand L'Erbolario. A fantastically cheap aromatic accord of hesperides (mandarine and bergamot more than others), smoky herbal pattens, jasmine and woods (sandalwood in particular), overall surrounded by a mossy-herbal, smoky and citric aura. Periplo puts in a corner tons of far more expensive similar fragrances around and performs quite greatly in balance and distincion. This fragrance is a diaphane example of how is not indispensable spending lots of money to smell refined. I don't catch the "aquatic" elements in here (despite a touch of saltiness exuded by woods imo) while all is woodsy (woody-mossy), vegetal and citric, with a final tad of soothing balsams and (not listed) leather (at least under my nose). Really herbal and intensely woody-hesperidic in its central stage, subsequently soapy-woody-musky along dry down. The Periplo's woody accord conjures me vaguely (with all the necessary proportions in terms of quality and structure) the exquisite Etro Sandalo (especially due to a common smokey/bitter/dusty undertone) but the great Etro's one smells less hesperidic, drier and more spicy-incensey on my skin. Furthermore, scent a la Geo F. Trumper Sandalwood, Versace Versus Uomo or V&A TSAR come vaguely on mind for several of their characteristics. Anyway, a great scent if you are on a budget.
P.S: You will surely appreciate Periplo in case you like scents as Cartier Declaration, Cacharel Pour Homme, 7 de Loewe, Boss Elements.
06th July, 2015

Moramanga by Coquillete Paris

Coquillette Paris Moramanga starts by soon as a fizzy-rubbery floral fist in your face, extremely intense and balsamic. I detect a main "central" accord of ylang-ylang and tuberose which (especially in its connection with musk, jasmine, spices, orange blossoms and resins) conjures me powerfully the classic Blu by Bruno Acampora, an historical take on tuberose/jasmine accord (the first of the two notes as central, the second accessorial, either supported by a spicy-exotic ylang-ylang). I actually detect an unquestionable resemblance between Moramanga and Blu; both are intense, musky and (especially at the beginning) fizzy-medicinal, just in here I detect a deepler jasmine's presence while Blu pushed the accelerator over (the in here anyway as well working) tuberose-ylang-ylang's connection. Both the scents smell resinous (somewhat rubbery and juicy) but, while Blu is basically musky (enriched by high quality Acampora's musk) Moramanga smells particularly carnal, sticky and balmy (encompassed by balsams and resins). Both the fragrances share anyway a "secret" sort of almondy-fizzy intensity with candied, floral, fruity and medicinal facets (and with a typical "syrupy tuberose influence"). I detect in here a remarkable opoponax presence providing substance and "massive" depth. In conclusion, if you are on the really visceral and syrupy types of floral accords (waving around a central syrupy tuberose/jasmine combo) give a chance to this fragrance. Despite not my cup of tea this juice deserves a try, especially if you are interested on the main theme. Despite not properly onedimensional, this scent is finally not enough structured for my full pleasure. Really impressive projection and great lasting power.
05th July, 2015

Sulmona by Coquillete Paris

One of the best almond's renditions I've enjoyed in my humble experience. Coquillette Paris Sulmona is a simple but decently appointed and surprisingly "polyedral/structured" spicy accord of almond sugary-milky juice (by soon soapy, weirdly syrupy and smooth in to an almost edible way), soft balsams, orange blossoms and (I suppose) ylang-ylang. This fragrance has a spicy sugary/exotic and vaguely boozy temperament conjuring me partially scents a la O.P.S.O Dalila (which is equally structured, less properly almondy but equally sultry-dusty and exotic) and fragrances a la Maria Candida Gentile Noir Tropical (equally exotic but more gorgeous, hesperidic and rum-centered). Vanilla is in here quite irresistible and really silky. Is like to drink an helthful infusion of soja milk and almond juice, is like to get a sticky nectar but at same time I enjoy the structure provided by hesperides, spices and aromatic notes. I appreciate this vanilla's application since it appears magistrally appointed in order to never smell annoying, affected, too much sugary or overwelming. In Sulmona all is balanced and really velvety, just a touch of balminess and this central really "tropical" accord of almond, I suppose musk, animalic patterns (civet?), aldehydes and something properly exotic (an accord of spices and ylang-ylang? Nutmeg in particular?). I get the aldehydes or something close in effect since there is a dusty-aromatic aura (I suppose supported by green-balsamic patterns a la juniper berries or stuffs like that) while I'm almost sure to detect on skin a dirty-dissonant (vaguely rotten-metallic) element couteracting the balanced sugary vibe (in a sort of perfectly aligned trio, sugary, balmy and animalic). Anyway the main hallmark of this gracious fragrance is this lacteous and vaguely yeast-conjuring perfect almond-extrait's rendition (vaguely laundry in effects). A good semi-oriental experiment from this brand and an almond's Ode which I recommend for the "almond addicted".
04th July, 2015

Captain Molyneux by Molyneux

Finally I re-test today on skin this fragrance after many years and a soapy/barber-shop mossy-chypre-fougere universe starts again disclosing its massive inlayed doors (mossy, laundry, powdery, minty-aromatic, honeyed, rooty, aldehydic, metallic) under my nose, an olfactory-temporal "space" studded by perfumed pièces of history as several Geo F. Trumper or Penhaligon's, further scents a la Cabochard de Grès, Arrogance Pour Homme, Monsieur Rochas, Azuree Pure Estee Lauder, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Oscar de La Renta Pour Lui, YSL vintage Kouros, Balenciaga Portos, Dunhill For Man, Robert Piguet Bandit, Patou Pour Homme, Bogart by Jaques Bogart, Original Denim for Men etc, etc. Captain de Molyneux is a powerfully anisic-aromatic and mossy-aldehydic chypre accord, restrained and uncompromisingly virile. I detect a minimal touch of soapy-visceral substance (civet, honey, ambergris??) but Captain is not basically an animalic mossy-chypre while more properly an herbal barber-shop accord with a cedary-mossy core and soapy-waxy nuances. The aldehydic presence is in here really temperamental despite not properly "boosted" till those "vintage Kouros levels". Anise and lavender (supported by spacious-airy-irony aldehydes) release a deeply aromatic mentholated vibe since the beginning while dry woods, roots, oakmoss and may be arid tobacco exude a sort of bitter/herbal "licorice-kind" undertone counteracting a dominant (mild) soapy "minty milk". Don't be fooled from the "milk" word (related to a minimal touch of soothing balsam in the original recipe) anyway, the soapiness is basically sharp, dusty-woody and powdery (with just a minimal hint of soothing elements). Captain de Molyneux is all about the 80's barber-shops "molecules", a pièce of gentleman classicism and a supreme lavender accord with an hesperidic presence, a general sense of muskiness and restrained metallic floral notes. Dry down is bold, old-shool, yet measured and discreet. There is a general sense of fresh-airy and clean-musky soapiness around the wearer, a fresh soft accord anyway restrained by this rooty/licorice-type of effect providing sensual forbidding erotic masculinity. Despite not properly original or revolutionary (and despite today less opulent in its current version), this fragrance is nowadays incontestably a left over great fougere/chypre classic combination with a glorious story to hand down.
04th July, 2015

Vétiver by Annick Goutal

I've been eager to test on skin this infamous vetiver for years since several vetiver lovers used to prize it as a fizzy-salty "eau de cologne" type of structured cedary-"marine" vetiver. Effectively Annick Goutal Vetiver is a really visceral kind of warmly organic vetiver (earthy, green and piquant) with a classic "cologny" structure and distinguished "intimate" elegance. Yes, an excellent salty vetiver, really iodate. The "stressed" saltiness, on the side of an airy-exotic "spaciousness" and a restrained classic approach, contribute to bind this vetiver to another favorite of mine, namely the great The Different Company Sel de Vetiver (which is, if possible, a tad more stressed over the salty-ozonic side) while a spicy/lightly incensey/tobacco-tonka veined accord connects this scent to the vintage Guerlain Vetiver's exoticism (the latter finally more soothed, resinous and far less salty). The Goutal Vetiver's dry down is immensely sensual and virile, ideal for a sultry southern summer time out.
03rd July, 2015 (last edited: 04th July, 2015)

Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d'Empire

Parfum d'Empire Osmanthus Interdite opens with an utterly crisp and vegetal accord of musk, green tea, citrus and earthy osmanthus. The first approach is bitter-herbal, fizzy (vaguely medicinal), somewhat lemony (bergamot?) and gradually floral. This phase is bitter-pungent and intensely penetrating. Jasmine starts gradually to merge its substance with rose and hyper lush osmanthus in order to appoint an uncompromisingly sophisticated botanic floral accord (leafy and lymphatic). Progressively the aroma morphs towards a (just a tad) denser, more soothed and "solid" amalgam (is like to catch pollen and floral essence) despite the basic outcome keeps on being kind of grassy and musky. You will be actually encompassed by a musky floral pungent embrace extremely sensual and almost organic (kind of pheromonical and intimate). I get the comparison with the equivalent osmathus-centered concoction from The Different Company which is anyway more grey-mossy-laundry and finally less grassy-crisp in substance. Anyway both exude that sort of tea-mimosa kind of "fluidity" which seems a facet of a huger ideal "kaleidoscope of the olfactory sharpness". A great take on my favorite floral note (osmanthus) and an extremely sophisticated concoction for a deeply sensual kind of woman (elegant, impeccable, voluptuous, forbidding). Hands down, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. Perfect for spring/summer.
02nd July, 2015

Herat by Coquillete Paris

Well, Herat is my first approach with Coquillette Paris and I have to say that the scent is pleasant despite not properly original. I've read somewhere about an assumed resemblance with Nasomatto Black Afgano and I humbly nail down in here that could agree just partially with this olfactory association. There is for sure a common foundation of synthetic notes (as woods, vetiver in particular, amber, tobacco, frankincense, hashish, jasmine etc which contributes to "push up" an aromatic connection and a similar aroma itself). This shared foundation leads somebody to point out the previous comparison but I have to firmly outline that structure, sillage and density almost utterly diverge imo (I mean the consistency of the general combination of notes, their body, the general intensity, sillage itself). First of all Herat is a feminine floral semi-oriental (I respectfully disagree who with asserts it is a masculine creation) while Black Afgano is a perfectly unisex rubbery-sulphureous oriental and where the latter is highly resinous and dense Herat is kind of aqueous and light (fluidy floral and delicately soapy). Vetiver is piping up by soon in here, immedialtely supported by a "huge" ylang-ylang (aqueous, spicy and exotic) and wet woods while a gradually emerging frankincense seems scarcely resinous and basically humid (almost translucent). The floral notes are gracious and particularly feminine in approach while the hashish's presence seems closer to the similar one yet enjoyed in Il Profumo Cannabis than to one tested in the misty Black Afgano (in which the note of cannabis is not fluidy/floral and wet but rubbery and sticky). A gingery and fluidy spicy presence seems to connect this juice (on the level of sillage and consistency) to scents a la Mark Buxton Devil in Disguise or Black Angel, Acampora Nero (especially for a musky simil dimension) or Meo Fusciuni Notturno. Woods, musk and floral notes (jasmine, violets, lily of the valley??) seem to be the mail elements (a red berry's presence as well ??) of this finally sensual experiment which seems conceptually closer for instance to scents a la Biagiotti Venezia/Venezia Pastello or Guerlain Samsara than to stouter accords a la Fortis or Black Afgano. A nice musky-piquant floral scent with a woody and powerfully spicy intensity, a liquid-resins presence and a smooth vetiver accord. To be tryed.
02nd July, 2015

Vaniglia del Madagascar by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

Farmacia SS Annunziata Vaniglia del Madagascar is an unusual take on the vanillic theme which is in this case connected to a (nowadays mainstream) musky-ozonic-aromatic marine (lemony and simil ozonic) accord yet performed by Hyle from the same brand and particularly runned by scents a la Profumum Roma Acqua di Sale, Reminiscence Sea-Rem, Laboratorio Olfattivo Salina or Il Profvmo Pioggia Salata. In here the performer seems to combine a light aqueous vanilla with a salty-airy floral muskiness. The vanillic presence is here (liquid, lemony and spicy) but the core of this fragrance is musky-ozonic (at least kind of ostensibly mineral-ozonic), silky-soapy, salty-sugary, floral and aromatic. The out come is a light muskiness somewhat fluidy and vaguely salty-airy. A wearable "non vanillic" vanilla, really balanced and organic.
01st July, 2015

No. 5 Eau Première by Chanel

Simply a well re-orchestrated version of the great original with a reduced aldehydic/animalic presence, an equally woody-poudree-rosey exotic dry down but with this alluring long lasting soul full of bright-shimmering sharp floral sophistication (jasmine more than rose in this phase and "apparently" peony), a more angular-watery citric presence (sharp, vaguely bitter and sensual) and a fresher general aura (aromatic and spicy). Anyway, Eau Premiere preserves that "trademark" N. 5' s poudree-hesperidic-chypre (still rosey-soapy) chic aura which turned its predecessor out in to such a legendary way. Thumbs up.
30th June, 2015