Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2461

Eau de Sisley 1 by Sisley

Graceful summery blend of citrus, florals and musk. Lemon, jasmine, musk and cool juniper are prominent under my nose. Opening is lemony and kind of fizzy-medicinal (but never disturbing). The tea-note emerges gradually and provides that typical soothing botanical herbal/floral infusion-twist which completes the musky blend. Jasmine is probably the absolute star of the bright "white/yellow" olfactory performance. Dry down is kind of dry and more on the dandy virile side. Elegant and sparkling.
20th March, 2019

Eau de Sisley 3 by Sisley

Basically a fresh musky/fruity blend of ginger and vetiver. The fruity presence is kind of fizzy, acid, medicinal and intensely lemony-berrish. Ginger pervades all the elements, vetiver is prominent (especially in the top) and a final touch of soapiness soothens the elements. I get a synth sultry twist and a vague hint of soapiness. Finally a languid floral presence emerges but the whole final effect is flat and dull. Nothing shanky but franky I don't see the point.
17th March, 2019

Miracle Blossom by Lancôme

Pink-berrish mineral musk and lot of summery joy. Roses bloom up gradually like rays of sunshine at dawn.
13th March, 2019
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L'Interdit (2018 version) by Givenchy

An elegant floral semi-gourmand. Yes, L'Interdict's opening is kind of candied and vaguely reminiscent of old school immaculate ethereal scents a la Lancome Poeme, Chopard Cashmere, Gaultier Classique, Dior Dune, Beverly Hills Giorgio and Cacharel LouLou (in a lighter way). The connection between balmy tuberose, creamy sambac jasmine and "victorian" orange blossoms is easily discernible. Patchouli is the olfactory connective element providing structure and maturity. The note of sambac jasmine is heady and creamy, conjuring me immediately several original Mugler Alien's more resinous/vanillic flankers as Alien Essence Absolue. I detect some muskiness a la Narciso Rodriguez or Elie Saab as well. Tuberose is there but slightly accessorial to a dominant creamy jasmine which is wrapped by a warm and luscious vanille/patchouli-dominant mantle (even enriched by hints of amber, sandalwood and resins). A really sophisticated fragrance, kind of clean, sensual, bright and sublimely chic.
10th March, 2019

Red Tobacco by Mancera

A well appointed "opaque" tobacco-centered concoction based on a good connection of spices (powerfully saffronish), woods, rubbery/pencil shavings/resinous notes (vaguely a la L'Artisan All Oudh) and the dominant tobacco. Finally the main note (initially veined by fruity/floral nuances) is kind of woody, smoky, dusty incensey and opaquely "rubbery" (with hints of soft balsams). Virile and strong fragrance (with a spicy mild kind of poudree presence in the mix). A solid tobacco accord from Mancera.
09th March, 2019

Just Cavalli for Him (new) by Roberto Cavalli

Effective easy going fancy Cavalli virile connection of wet aromatic pimento, pencil shavings woods and leather, overall welded by ghostly hints of synth (vaguely dusty) amber. Not bad but not for me.
07th March, 2019

Jil Sander No. 4 by Jil Sander

A classically appointed animalic mossy/chypre really rich and glorious, with a dominant luxuriant accord of fruity notes (apparently apricot and plums), creamy patchouli, musky ylang-ylang and spicy/eliotropic tuberose under my profane nose. The evolution slides away multifaceted and gorgeous. Finally the complex structure tends partially to cast off on my skin (though without completely collapsing). A fragrance conjuring me (in a less complex form) gorgeous pillars of olfactory classicism a la Coco Chanel, Dior Poison, Roccobarocco, Diva Ungaro, Knowing and more.
06th March, 2019

The Game by Davidoff

A sparkling fizzy easy/going fancy woody-aromatic fragrance middle way between Cerruti 1881 and the classic Cool Water (in its herbal/floral part). Modern, virile, dry and dynamic.
05th March, 2019

Boss Bottled Unlimited by Hugo Boss

Decent accord of aromatic pineapple, watery woods and labdanum. Mint in the opening is broading and cool (with secret ghosty kind of ozonic patterns). Fresh and virile but un-inspired stuff from the "all-average Boss". A decent boredom.
05th March, 2019

Dark Rebel Rider by John Varvatos

A pretty dark masculine leather/floral which opens aromatic and kind of orangy in order to gradually perform a sort of elusive rubbery/balmy darkness middle way between the original Dark Rebel's vanillic smokey leather and the Tom Ford Tobacco Oud's mystic/noir ambience. I definitely detect the Rodrigo Flores-Roux's landmark spicy incensey darkly cosmetical vibe supremely performing in Donna Karan Black Cashmere. Really spicy/incensey (kind of misty and vaguely liturgical for a certain while) and with a final plain smooth chocolatey patchouli pairing in "presence" smooth rubbery leather and sweet floral elements. I detect hints of cedary dusty-peppery woodiness a la Bottega Veneta PH eau de parfum along the way. Performance is more than decent on my skin.
03rd March, 2019

Luna Rossa Black by Prada

Yes, spicy musky aromatic vanilla plus hints of fruits and dark woods. Woodiness is intense and provides a tad of structure to an otherwise overly soapy (bath foam-like a la Gaultier Le Male) concoction. The aroma is pleasant, cool, "cloudy", dynamic but frankly somewhat flat, easy going and generic. A fragrance being frank overly talky-soapy to hit the top-stage of the night time out (or clubbing) naughty olfactory beasts.
01st March, 2019

Bottega Veneta by Bottega Veneta

This uncompromisingly feminine concoction from Bottega Veneta revolves around a quite evident accord of smooth mossy leather and super spicy lily of the valley. The latter, as connected to jasmine and probably rose, is heady and musky, really sophisticated and smooth. Leather is mostly a suedish musky floral sensual feminine leather. I detect definitely piquant spices, hints of frankincense, benzoin, rose and a warm musky sensual patchouli. A classic Armani fragrance like Onde Mystere jumps on mind as well as the more modern and sensual Cuir Amethyste (warmer, more rosey and vanillic). Another fragrance jumping on mind is the spicy floral Giulietta Capuleti Soul Drops (really close in style to Bottega Veneta). A fragrance constructed on a gorgeous classic style but with a musky cleaner modern twist. Dry down is sultrier and warmer. A well made mature bold appointment.
26th February, 2019

Eau Sauvage Extrême by Christian Dior

A quite restrained woody dark barber-shop fragrance a la V&A Pour Homme or Battistoni Marte, based on herbal-aromatic patterns, dry "fluidy" cadarwood and virile cistus (the latter quite intense and warmly masculine). A "signature kind of" fragrance with no frills for classic conservative gentlemen loving tradition and dry woody/herbal perfumes. A veritable must from Christian Dior.
24th February, 2019
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L'Homme Idéal L'Intense by Guerlain

A spicy boredom, neither evolution, nor complexity, a huge dose of tonka makes all "sultrier" but I don't see the point. Dry down is a pale sweetish (spicy) synth pencil shavings woodiness on my skin. It lasts a flash. Sorry.
24th February, 2019

Givenchy pour Homme Blue Label by Givenchy

A easy going fragrance for summer, peppery and aquatic. The "fresh aqueous olibanum's touch" is the key presence of the olfactory appointment. A nice choice for the lovers of genre.
22nd February, 2019

Cuir de R'Eve by David Jourquin

One of the best modern takes on "vintage" leather/patchouli out there, a fragrance in which soapy/powdery elements, resins, berries and suede are accessorial to a final neo chypre olfactory orchestra. In a very first stage you get a super resinous berrish take on leather (in this phase modern and exotic). The berrish presence is indeed quite spicy, sultry and sticky, especially in the Cuir De R'Eve's top phase. Iris and leather unfold a well known stout combo (kind of smooth and rubbery) while spicy resins and flowers express for a while a kind of tropical (vaguely almondy, due to eliotrope) twist, namely the David Jourquin's "far lands kind" of exotic landmark, more evident and central in Cuir Caraibes and Cuir Solaire. Along the way an apparently shy element (in the first stage) starts sitting on the higher horse while hanging finally out as an absolute (retro aura inducing) protagonist under my vulgar nose (namely king patchouli, a key element finally shining in all its neo vintage/chypre, woody/earthy and suedish splendor). This final part is excellent and incredibly well crafted, a sleight of hand of magistral high neo-vintage perfumery. A initially modern exotic aura turns finally out in to a classic vintage atmosphere.
Scents a la Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli (patch, leather, berries,spices) or Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman (patch, iris, woods, suede) come vaguely on mind for their masterful vintage chypre ambience's rendition. A pity for the poor longevity (on my skin). One of the very best pieces of this quite interesting maison.
20th February, 2019

Gentleman Eau de Parfum by Givenchy

Aromatic synth moody iris/patch-combo on the edge of a subliminal claustrophobia. A saturnine urban perfume for lovelorn womanizers. The main floral note is in here at same time freshly prickly and finally warmly smooth (with its darkly vanillic mantle). A winter darkly velvety smouldering vanillic patchouli for fancy suburbian "dark leather fellows". I detect points of "ghostly connections" with the sultrier phantasmagoric By Kilian Black Phantom (which is less urban and more oriented towards occultism and black magic). I perceive a sort of "scented candles - burning resins" secret vibe as well (even balanced by counteracting fresh spices and aromatic lavender). Nice chic scent for a frosty sinister night out there (although the fundamental central dry spicy lavender is there anchoring the aroma to a more balanced daily versatile dimension). A modern alluring take on the "cosmetical" popular theme (Dior Homme Intense, Valentino Uomo Intense and further) with a sort of rock metal post-industrial metropolitan aura.
19th February, 2019 (last edited: 20th February, 2019)

Bottega Veneta pour Homme Parfum by Bottega Profumiera

A spicier (almost a la V&R SpiceBomb) version of the original Bottega Veneta Pour Homme edt. I find this parfum more focused on tonka, leather and piquant/dusty spices (nutmeg, cardamom, probably black pepper), woodsy resinous elements are subdued, synth cedary woodiness is more moderate (or better rendered) while smoky leather is quite enhanced. A virile concoction, charismatic and mysterious. The creation opens with highly concentrated woody and spicy notes of cedar leaves and rich cardamom, enhanced and strengthened at the heart by red and black pepper plus fir balsam. The combination of prickly sweet spices, tonka, dry woods and leather conjures me barely (the fruity, almondy and affected) Armani Code Profumo but BV PH Parfum is finally a more assertive, woodsy and mysterious creation which I prefer. A step beyond the other version in projection (just a tad more than moderate in any case) and longevity (more than decent). A bolder formula which I frankly prefer on the original somewhat fluidy/plastic (at least on my skin) edt appointment.
13th February, 2019 (last edited: 14th February, 2019)

Alien Man by Thierry Mugler

Frankly I'm slightly disappointed by this brand new male Mugler's creation quite unable to live up to the woman-Alien's fame and its bombastic uncompromising sensuality. Tested this one twice on skin and to bè honest I don't really see the point. Mugler Alien Man opens weirdly with a fleeting synth watery amberish tonkinian accord plus a huge dose of yet up emerging cashmeran wood (overall averagely sweet, cinnamonic, dry and cedary a la Montblanc Legend Night) combined with top herbal, anisic (anise, dill), leafy floral (grassy bitter geranium) and aromatic elements balancing the synth ambery/spicy mildness and barely anchoring by soon the juice to a more classic aromatic/fougere tradition. Bitter herbs, hints of suedish leather and kind of pencil shavings smoked woods (a la Montblanc Legend) characterize the woody/leathery/herbal (darker and drier) dry down. Tonka, musk, geranium, lavender, aromatic herbs and dry woods "recall" the fruitier Montblanc Legend's woody-aromatic aura under my profane nose. Whereas Legend is fruitier and more sparkling (citric) in its top and central stage Alien Man is more focused on smoked woods, peppery spices and mild tonka. Leather, bitter herbs, a tad of rubber and smoked/pencil shavings woods provide a quite dry/woody final mark. Finally the persistence is really short on my skin.
10th February, 2019

Atman Xaman by Lorenzo Villoresi

A blaze of dry and mellow spices, seasoned woods, soapy/resinous tobacco, wild herbs and genuine leather for a refined olfactory tribute to the Tuscany's atmosphere of rural chic farmhouses and cozy wood fires of the ancient country cottages on the hills. Musk and smoke compact the crazy elements (prickly spices, hesperides, roots and herbs) of the boisterous dry initial drama (vaguely a la L'Artisan Al Oudh) while a delicious ambery patchouli pairs balmy tobacco in a sort of final more pacified heavenly soapiness (sensual and enveloping). Precious resins provide a final remote wave of antiquity, a whiff of solid roots and childhood-memories of the coutryside's fall seasons. Over the initial Atman Xaman's super spicy (vaguely indie, slightly liquorous, "Slumberhousesque" and burnt sugary) opening (middle way between a spicy/agricole crude Slumberhouse's accord, a boozy/spicy more urban alchemy a la Idole de Lubin and a drier more "accomplished" dusty/spicy/woody twist a la Parfumerie Generale Coze 02 or L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh) tobacco, cistus and amber/patchouli start to become prominent under my amateur mediterranean nose while leather is more evident in a central stage. Woods are everywhere (discreet and barely aged on the side of dry herbs and arcane roots). Resinous elements finally master over the drier ones for a final wisely oriental musky/tobacco-accord. A perfume smelling about agrestic left back traditions, genuine recipes, old roots, dusty books and stout souls of province, a musky smell of coziness and true ancient rituals from the master italian Perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi.
28th January, 2019 (last edited: 31st January, 2019)

Cuir Solaire by David Jourquin

David Jourquin Cuir Solaire is a perfumed Ode to Andalusian dreamy summer to bè intended as a blaze of southern formidable passions. This flamboyant peculiar creation (a kind of spicy/boozy leather-jasmine with fruity and soapy marine patterns) is inspired by an ideal spanish hot woman sensual and temperamental (with her intense life full of sensual dances, equestrian passions and dreamy travels along the southern coasts). The juice is at same time "massive" and airy like in a bizarre game of contrasts combining rich spices, oriental patterns and leather-woods on one darker side and airy/orangy/marine elements on the opposite brighter aspect. An obsessive and charmy/cosmetical sambac jasmine (perfectly connected to a creamy/eliotropic/vaguely talky marine mélange) is the floral link that joins the wild cards . The marine presence is definitely close to the one yet proposed along time by several previous olfactory experiences like Profumum Roma Acqua di Sale, Il Profvmo Pioggia Salata, L'Erbolario Fiore dell'Onda and Reminiscence Rem and Rem L'acqua (I mean it is creamy, floral, ethereal, soapy salty, almost "edible" and never overly citric or metallic) but in here the alchemy (anything but just floral/marine) is far richer and more voluotuous due to syrupy spices, leather, seasoned woods and carnal vaguely liquorous presences which make this fragrance super sultry, erotic and exotic (and we know that exoticism is a David Jourquin's trade mark). A visceral succeeding sunny take on the infamous marine theme. Recommended.
27th January, 2019

Spezie by Lorenzo Villoresi

Lorenzo Villoresi is a genius of italian perfumery, a Maestro of balance and perfection. Spezie is perfect measure and olfactory resinous/aromatic bliss. Actually if you are in to herbal/spicy/aromatic resins (and partially in to liquid spicy frankincenses) this juice could be a must for you. You could love Spezie if you are in to barber-shop "fluidy" frankincenses as well. Spezie is a lovely green and soapy-resinous clove/cinnamon/cumin's symposium. The latter smells kind of waxy/incensey, rosey, vaguely liturgical, "by kurkuma-veined", balmy and aromatic. Tomato leaves, aromatic garden's herbs and sage provide a powerfully "cool" green feel. The scent which more than others conjures me Villoresi Spezie is Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia which is a more resinous but less spicy/aromatic kind of experience. Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre and partially Sideris with their spicy/resinous exuberance are fragrances partially jumping on mind as well. There is also a classic "toiletries/room cleaner barber-shop" kind of aromatic waxy undertone all around. Peppery? Herbal? Mmm, yes but not exclusively. Soapy/aromatic? Liquid/resinous? Right, yes, this is what this fragrance smells more properly like under my borderline nose of province. Spezie, in a nutshell, is definitely rich of aromatic herbs and spices but overall is a soapy, smooth, cool and resinous mélange. Spices and herbs are just central parts of a more articulate smoother affair in which smoldering balsams and aromatic-soapy resins are mastering (and where spices flavour up and colour the resinous "basis"). It seems (ostensibly) like some ferns take part to ceremony. Dry down is a vaguely talky/rosey piece of spicy/aromatic powder. A spark of neutral floral sophistication emerges gradually from the soap. A tad of frankincense (combined with myrrh and labdanum) a la Etro Mess de Minuit? It seems to catch partially that feel. Soapiness is finally warm and erotic. A unisex piece of waxy sensuality.
08th January, 2019 (last edited: 12th January, 2019)

Cuir Caraïbes by David Jourquin

David Jourquin Cuir Caraibes evidently conjures the Caribbean dreamy atmosphere (experienced back in the time by its creator there between Guadeloupe, Cuba and Saint Barth) and is one of the veritable exotic juices I've tested on skin in which juicy tropical fruitiness, windy/airy greenness and sophisticated ambery luxuriousness merge together in a finally warm irresistible embrace (paradoxically fresh/warm, wild/refined, sweet/salty). A fantastic fruity/gingery leather with an unmistakable exotic evocative power. The spirit of Caribe emerges immediately with the first vibrant intoxicating wet/aromatic "splash" on skin (rich of fresh ginger, piquant cardamom, citrus and exotic fruits). Leather is immediately there from the back but it's a fruity fresh spacious summery leather (it seems to perceive a fresh wind on your face, a breezy blast rich of mango, kiwi, spices, light floral notes, salty molecules, citrus and freshly cut grass). The presence of fluidy cardamom seems evident and it smells watery, boozy (a tad of white rhum?) and sparkling. The fruity vibe is rich of exoticism with its banana/kiwi-like vibe while vetiver and possibly ylang-ylang provide a typical breezy dreamy far lands-evoking twist. Gradually woods emerge but a realistic sense of smooth milky (figgy-like) fruitiness masters the suedish scene (a sort of banana/fig smoothie-undertone). Dry down is a cottony grazing of soft suede and soapy figgy amber quite fruity, erotic and irresistible.
06th January, 2019

Black Pepper & Sandalwood by Acca Kappa

The fragrance's style (vaguely victorian, artistic and colonial) conjures me partially the Floris/Crabtree & Evelyn/Etro's ones but the general refinement and articulation are not so marked. This juice is all about sandalwood and pungent spices (black pepper, saffron and ginger in particular) and a few more. Development is dull and short on time while a weird sense of wet crudeness (probably provided by ginger, cumin or kurkuma and which I dislike) permeates the elements. Rose? Not under my profane nose. Dry down is lot focused on nutmeg and cinnamon. The plenty of piquant spices provides a sort of arabesque undertone. A luxurious palatin decadent concept, a fragrance for Carnival-parties and nocturnal baroquesque rendez vous.
28th December, 2018

Cuir Tabac by David Jourquin

Cuir Tabac, my first emotional approach with the David Jourquin-olfactory experience, is a quite serious affair, an intellectual juice for the modern edonist (bold and daring, a contemporary gentleman with a nineteenth-century romantic/adventurous spirit), a laborious twist of realistic patchouli (quite rooty, woodsy and earthy), dry cigar tobacco (fragrant and vivid), boozy/resinous (vaguely liquorous and incensey) spices, soothing balmy suede and aromatic urban soapy lavender (the fougere hidden vaguely barber-shop final whiff, paradoxically the modern city side of the darkly historical olden affair). In a nutshell not a stuff for lovers of simplistic easily approachable airy "waters". I'd split the story in two separate parts: the superb dramatic "fluffy" agrestic opening (almost "agricole" in its flamboyant fragrant naturalistic crudeness) and the perfectly refined timeless aromatic/suedish dry down. In the middle a kaleidoscopic mesmerising transition not easy to be discerned. Sticky and vaguely mystic this huge creation opens in a complicated intoxicating/smokey way which is something ideally connecting the most obscure Slumberhouse's like Sova or Kote with voluptuous greedy/intellectual leathers a la Hdp 1740 Marquis de Sade, impenetrable urban "conceptual" viney juices a la Rundholz 03.Apr.1968 and dark bohemian revelations a la Zoologist Civet, House of Matriarch Bohemian Black and Masque Tango. Anyway, probably the creations conjuring me mostly this obscure introduction are the iconic Italian fragrance Visconti di Modrone Tabacco d'Harar (misty, virile, strong on botanic earthiness/leafiness/rootiness and historical) and the wonderful resinous/incensey patchouli Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir (decadent and lascivious but never so rooty/earthy). Veejaga Hashish Homme is another juice jumping vaguely on mind for its articulated rooty soul. The Cuir Tabac's opening is substantially more than compelling with its viney licoricey "burnt sugar/earthy-rooty notes/smoke/immortelle-like" good punch in the teeth. I detect dusty resins and honeyed spices in the "stuffy" mélange but a bucolic realistic tobacco leaf's presence is heady and characteristic. Along the way the fury of elements starts to calm down and the georgic temperament of the aroma gradually fades in order to leave the stage to a more "wearable" and light aromatic leather/tobacco-centered foundation. The sweetly liquorous/woody spark is still there (lighter) with its vintage/stuffy appeal but the final trail is all about virile aromatic tobacco with leathery accents, a tad of woody powder and a lighter/fresher soapy aromatic vibe (the contemporary side of the moon). Thick precious woods-made fornitures, gentlemen clubs, cigars, whisky, soft music, massive frames endowed-pictures and soft leather sofà jump ideally on mind. A must have for all the tobacco-addicted with a classy and literary sense of life.
25th December, 2018 (last edited: 26th December, 2018)

NO ± Suede by Uèr Mì

A quite stout leather-juice really warm, gently resinous, woody, vaguely talky/ambery/aromatic (at the end of the journey) and sensual. A beast with a romantic dusty soul. A powdery/aromatic (though not properly balsamic) take on spicy leather (yes aromatic safraleine) which, if not properly modern, natural or innovative, smells somewhat vivid and owns all the credentials to compete with several renowned leathers though not properly managing to lord over many of them. Uer mi No Suede starts with a intoxicating blast of simil spicy tobacco vaguely a la Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Bell'Antonio (an apparent feeling quite peppery, saffrony, ostensibly boozy, liquid/incensey and mild), aqueous leather (a la Cuir de Lancome) and quite "sticky" frankincense. The aroma changes in a few seconds on my skin. The spicy tobacco's apparent feel evolves in to something woody, mild and powdery a la Le Labo Patchouli 24. Guaiac wood (joined to subtle well rounding fruity notes and florals) is by soon a key element able to civilize the initially piquant leather with a balancing mildly woody touch (quite perfect, ambery, fruity and spicy floral). Several undiscernible floral patterns pop immediately up kind of fleeting (in a short while somewhat evanescent but "still in the air"), taking briefly part to the stormy ceremony. In a couple of minutes a boisterous leather-vibe takes completely the scene as the absolute protagonist, waving in the air in to a virile, rubbery and resinous (almost gasolinic) way a la Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia (which "sounds" less properly leathery, less mild, less complex but definitely more rubbery, misty and smoky). The more the juice evolves the more it turns out kind of warm, powdery-ambery and refined (yes in a more modern subtle-chic way). Probably the addition of "animalics" enhances the general powdery warmth (which is not literally a hot feel but something encompassing the senses with a kind of talky-suedish-resinous-animalic twist). Virile and multifaceted (florals, woody notes, fruity patterns, spices, suede, rubber, resins) ambery creation, though nothing properly avant-gard of particularly daring. A more than decent job in any case.
23rd December, 2018 (last edited: 24th December, 2018)

Aromatics in Black by Clinique

Tested it just on the paper unfortunately. Anyway, if you are nostalgic of classic "White/Musky/Aldehyidic" scents a la Cacharel LouLou, Anais Anais, Biagiotti Roma, vintage D&G Pour Femme, Parah or Dior Addict, Aromatics In Black could bè a more simplistic and actual choice on the theme. Somewhat nothing in common with the giant of its colossal "burning" ancestor (the immortal Aromatics Elixir). Osmanthus, may be freesia, sambac jasmine and cool talky muskiness provide a languid essence rich of "robotic" metropolitan elusiveness. Despite the resinous benzoinic structure and the dark oriental intriguing soul, Aromatics in Black possesses a touch of the talky chyprey diaphane radiancy of left back powdery beasts a la E. Coudray Amber et Vanille or Grossmith Phul-Nana. More over, In Black is anyway a contemporary olfactory twist and you can catch a minty-frosty (vaguely anisic, cool, intoxicating and slightly lipstick) modern vibration connecting this juice to modern glamour-chic renouned creations a la Alien, Ange ou Demon, Very Irresistibile or stuff like those. Urban and wintery this is a juice for a modern dark lady of the "pop/funky" shimmering megalopololi's night out.
16th December, 2018 (last edited: 17th December, 2018)

Terre d'Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver by Hermès

Same old story, overly woody, synth and "pencil shavings" under my profane nose, an overly strong woody/gassy/peppery twist over the original Terre d'Herme's perfect formula. Along its short evolution Eau Intense Vetiver seems to wave between a whichever woody dry Montale, CdG Wonderwood (dry wet woodiness), modern pencil shavings stuffs (a la Carbone de Balmain, CdG Black, Gucci Pour Homme I, Autoportrait by Olfactive Studio etc), the original well calibrated formula and overly woody synth generic current woody/peppery/leathery aromas a la Fan di Fendi Pour Homme, several Armani or tons of stuffs in the same league. Do you want a real crack on the rough woody agrestic theme? I definitely recommend the superb Etro Vetiver. Not for me.
16th December, 2018 (last edited: 17th December, 2018)

Paradis Lointains by Olibere Parfums

Olibere Paradis Lointains is a weird tropical mélange. This fragrance is fruity-spicy (lot of pepper), floral, resinous and musky, there is some saltiness working alongside a sort of sultry general exotic aura vaguely transcendent, oddly moody, translucent and elusive. Spicy/incensey tuberose, ozonic elements, musk, undiscerned (kind of tart and "red") fruity notes, ylang-ylang, leafy gardenia and waxy patterns are heady under my vulgar nose. Pepper, citrus, gardenia, sour fruity notes and ozonics elicit the main obsessive restrained leafy-acid theme of the olfactory fatigue. I definitely detect the Bertrand Duchaufour's spicy resinous (vaguely incensey or anyway "dusty-peppery") landmark twist. Tuberose is neither "carnal" nor creamy/sweet (or redolent) but kind of elusive, acid, tart and adumbrated. The fruity element is sour, intense, berrish and slightly fizzy, it joins the resinous notes in a general musky/piquant/acid atmosphere which is slightly minty, rubbery, (vaguely) plastic/xerox toner-like and aldehyidic like in to an indeal marriage between something "hyperbaric" and medicinal a la Andrea Maack Silk/Sharp and the post-modernism of CdG Odeur 71/Odeur 53. Not for me, the "suspended abstractism" of this juice is kind of impersonal, stuck and rare for my personal stereotype of golden multifaceted vibrant aroma.



01st December, 2018 (last edited: 02nd December, 2018)

Capriccio (original) by Gandini 1896

Old school spicy feminine chypre a la Morris Gocce di Napoleon. Lot of aldehydes and hesperides.
21st November, 2018