Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2404

Legend Intense by Montblanc

Slightly fruitier/sweeter (as dry down) than the original Legend due to a more stressed pineapple/apple opening. Cardamom, herbs, pineapple and citrus provide the Legend's soul. The central stage is musky-floral while dry down is mastered by synthetic tonka and woods. Vaguely richer and less restrained than the original. A fruity aromatic new generation fougere. Excellent bottle.
16th December, 2017

Legend Night by Montblanc

Slightly disappointed, since I was in my imagination expecting something more original and frankly (conceptually) closer to a better appointed new Azzaro Intense Parfum or something like that. The previous reviewers quite hit the spot since I get amberish/slightly gourmandish overtones on the regular "fizzier" Legend-base (still dominant in its main accord of citrus, greens, fruits, patchouli and tonka). The spicy side is not exclusively represented by cardamom since I detect cloves or nutmeg as well. I quite agree on that Legend Night conjures more than vaguely scents a la Nina Ricci Mamoire d'Homme with lot of elements in common with well known further scents a la Baldessarini Ambre', Amouage Reflection Men, Gaultier Le Beau Male, Ysl Body Kouros, La Nuit de L'Homme, Polo Black and funther. The juice combines the fizzy fruity (somewhat sporty) elements of the "regular Legend" (vaguely floral and tart) with a sweeter side represented by sweet ambroxan, spices and vanilla. Cardamom still provides a scratchy peppery fluidier undertone for long. Dry down is a boring, nowadays mainstream, drier cedary (vaguely pencil shavings) ending. Lovely bottle.
13th December, 2017 (last edited: 14th December, 2017)

Just Rock! pour Lui by Zadig & Voltaire

Turbulent, dusty/incensey and peppery-intoxicating woody-oriental with a woody-ambery-incensey warm sweetish ending, a sort of V&R Spicebomb's far parent with a trendy-chic inebriating development a la One Million, Roccobarocco Extraordinary Man, Ted Lapidus Black Soul or stuffs like those. Sultry. Nuclear performances. Overly sweetish at the end on my skin.
13th December, 2017
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Scandal by Jean Paul Gaultier

Honeyed minty-angular patchouli, synthetically glamour-chic, musky,like a sort of ideal Alien/Ange ou Demon/Very Irresistibile/Elie Saab Le Parfum's "fruit of passion" (the sophisticated "kind of frosty/anisic" floral element being in this case the languid gardenia). Urban and trendy.
07th December, 2017 (last edited: 11th December, 2017)

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Noir Ambré by Issey Miyake

A mystic combination of roasted leather and soapy-spicy "fumee'" waxy-honeyed amber a la Miller Harris La Fumee Maroc. A flamboyant honeyed spicy oriental focused on smoky leather (utterly dried down by harsh papyrus and burnt resins/elements from the woods) and old spices. Along the way I get a sort of rubbery touch of creamed myrrh/frankincese. The soon collapsing structure does not live up the relentless flow of time.
04th December, 2017 (last edited: 11th December, 2017)

Pure XS by Paco Rabanne

A more than mediocre super chemical gingery/cardamomish/woody aroma with zero structure and articulation.
04th December, 2017

Extreme Night by Michael Kors

Synth woodiness, rubber and angular frozen peppery spices. A super balsamic rubbery reverie from the extremely metallurgical winter Tokyo-suburbia's techno night.
04th December, 2017

SoCal Cologne by Hollister

Interesting cause one of a kind, I get angular and dry fruity notes, an undiscernible sort of humid edible element from the wood, woody resins, malt, coconut, bark, sweet musk, patchouli and soft suede. Cozy and "country side type". A teenager in leather jacket "at saloon" kind of fragrance. Southern? Yes, may be. Tropical? Naa.
P.S: recently I've tested Iceberg Man which smells in its dry down almost identical to SoCal Cologne on my skin.
03rd December, 2017 (last edited: 11th January, 2018)

Zara Spicy by Zara

A sort of Viktor&Rolf Spicebomb's close relative (a powerful nutmeg/clove/cinnamon-centered dominant accord) with a notable synth pencil shavings lingering woodiness which I don't crave for.
03rd December, 2017

Wow! by Joop!

Nothing special, just a decent conventional synth take on woody dry/earthy (vaguely percil shavings along the way) geranium/violet combo with a final touch of soothing tonkinian vanilla (in order to warm up and balance the angular hesperidic/woody/floral main accord). Joop follows the trend represented by many new generation designer virile (and utterly woody) synth dry woody/floral which are by now a sort of must (and which let me totally indifferent). I agree on that Wow smells similar to Armani Eau de Nuit but also to several Fendi, Gucci (Gucci PH 2) or further designer creations crowding the shops shelves.
02nd December, 2017 (last edited: 04th December, 2017)

Phoenix Fougere by The Rising Phoenix Perfumery

A jasmine/neroli-centered cologney twist in a semi-oriental spicy/resinous heavier vest. A mesmerizing initially zesty neo-classic cologney jasmine's rendition re-interpreting in a contemporary "resinous" key a traditional fresher classic/naif hesperidic-floral formula a la Guerlain Aqua Allegorias, Acqua di Biella n.1, Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale or 4711 (the classic one and Aqua Colonia Mandarin&Cardamom). Lavender, petitgrain, bergamot, rosemay and verbena are reputedly present in the mix. Incredibly close for a while (on my skin) to Askett&English Absolute (which is a lighter kind of cologne) with its enchanting neo-classic accord of jasmine, ylang-ylang, cardamom and orange blossoms, just Phoenix Fougere being denser with its heavier central presence of tonka bean, sticky davana, resins and patchouli. Davana, may be myrrh and tonka provide in particular nutty final substance, darkness and density. I get as well a sort of amberish/resinous vetiver's presence a la Eau Sauvage Parfum, being the latter quite close to the final PF's dry down. I detect a lingering touch of soapiness throughout. A fragrance rich of nuances, classic and contemporary all at once, quite good for office-wear or for a refined (vaguely decadet) gala event in aristocratic locations.
28th November, 2017

Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain

Epitome of the classic Eau de Cologne, the excellence in its genre, hesperidic, aristocratic, exotic, art-deco. No more to add.
28th November, 2017

Credible by Louis Cardin

Seriously cardamom (the standout element imo) has not been listed? And what about juniper berries and cedarwood? It seems to detect huge watery spices, subtle aqueous floral elements (salty/green lotus?), pink berries, fruity red berries, green/musky notes, lemon/bergamot, oakmoss, ylang-ylang, something like rhubarb, may be hints of tonkinian balsams and something like ginger (hints of booziness, possibly gin?). Credible is a lovely (seriously lovely) un-original scent. I appreciate its dandy refined spicy/citrusy/greenish/musky tropical fresh neo-classicism but all I see is a sort of Cartier Declaration-Frapin L'Humaniste's oudish "tropical/fruity" twin (a succeeding formula). This juice could be a modern gentleman's secret (and Arabian Oud Gentleman's secret is another juice jumping conceptually on mind for its refined - vaguely barber-shop - accord of fluidy cardamom, cedarwood, citrus and ylang-ylang). Credible? I don't know but what does it matter? Lemon (a sort of spicy/musky/balmy lemon) is dominant for long. Something pungent, floral, super cardamomish and finally balmy/soapy lemony (a la Allure Homme Edition Blanche) brushes delicately your nose. May be salty vetiver enhances the general exoticism. Dry down is subtle, yacht-club for, yuppie, airy-mediterranean, secretly (remotely) salty-ozonic and eminently refined (a delicate touch of soapy spiciness for a perfect exotic gentleman in white linen and Panama hat). Finally I catch something vaguely earthy as undertone under my "moonshiny" nose. Nothing brand new or innovative but Credible definitely tickles my senses. Thumbs up.
26th November, 2017 (last edited: 27th November, 2017)
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Oud Zen by Areej le Doré

This arcane smoky/balsamic sandalwood's rendition (finally slightly civilized and rouded by soft balsams and stout leather) represents my first approach with the infamous Areej le Dore's "rocky" siberian alchemies. A first greasy Oud Zen's fist on my decrepit skin from the southern provinces and I'm immediately connected with the most obscure and extreme Abdul Samad Al Qurashi-oudhs straight outta dark caves, with the Calice Becker By Kilian Pure Oud's boot polish-like cypriol oil/cistus labdanum/smoky woods/saffron/tolu balsams/myrrh-founded animalic connections and definitely with my appalling bottle of pure castoreum-oil from Abdes Salam Attar Profumo. Castoreum (supported by acid civet) is indeed aggressive along this first stage and the animalic strength is in addition "extremized" by hints of (mezcal like) worm-rotted/mould, by secular dust, bonfire woodiness a la Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods or Fireside Intense, boisterous smoked leather a la Omer Ipekci Pekji Cuir6 and by (civet-nuanced) medicinal syrup. I substantially disagree with the excellent and super qualified ClaireV since I don't see any credible wearability in this straightforward combination of agarwood-pure oils, rancid resins, smoked woods and animalics (neither in the final barely tamed phase). I detect saffron which is a perfect dry companion for the authoritarian licoricey/salty/leathery/woody starkness but I catch as well a richer musky/green balsamic vibe (at same time vegetal and animalic a la ASAQ Royal Oud Gazelle or Deer Musk) from the ancient woods of the siberian mountain. A feral potion? Oh yes baby, at least (for three/quarter of its run) on my skin of moonshiny "suburban" pseudo-perfumista and till when a barely perceptible touch of softer balmy presence gets soothing the general "burnt sense of stale prehistoric antiquity". Exotic facets from Papuan Oud? Naaa. A faint floral presence? Probably, in a subtle final way perceptible as spark (minimal) of amberish/floral sophistication. Complexity is not proper to these types of musky/mouldy alchemic experiments to me and frankly (sorry again dear Claire) vintage Habanita (seriously powdery) or Onda Voile d'Extrait (eminently hesperidic) are completely different stuffs imo. The general structure turns out to be lacking. The final wake is lighter but still smokey, mouldy and leathery, an arcane feel which could by no means be introduced as "luxurious".The Oud Zen'wearer is definitely a saturnine fellow out of this standardized time and with a poetic sense of life. I appreciate in any case the hard "opera" of general balancing appointed by the artist creator. A status of mind (projected back to ancient centuries) more than a fully accomplished fragrance imo. 7,5/10.
P. S: the great surprise is that along the final stage, nearly 10 hours over the "application" on skin, the note of civet (a synthetic amberish/musky civet a la Zoologist Civet) unveils all its "suggestions" providing due to its "organic acidity" (and on a certain extent) the illusion of an old school animalic classic massive chypree a la Tabù Dana (or neo classic a la Zoologist Civet) under the vest of a still dominant (but reduced in intensity) musty smokiness and overall represents a great work of civilization appointed by perfumer imo.
22nd November, 2017

Credible Noir by Louis Cardin

A first blast of Credible Noir on skin and it seems to deal with a new Creed Aventus-clone with all its citric/smokey/fruity/coniferous "repertorio". I detect a touch of fruitiness, possibly hints of peneapple, huge bergamot and a tad of grapefruit. Probably the Louis Cardin's list of notes is just partial, aiming to veil the larger (in number of elements) perfume-composition. I detect fir-resin, pink berries and a sort of leafy-earthy-rooty presence (patchouli, herbal notes, jasmine-leaves??) as well. A rosey/piney/peppery-twist keeps "swarming" under the nose while (along the way) a less sharp and gradually smoother spark starts jumping up from the "backstage" in a way conjuring me intensely the Mazzolari Nero's final "outlook" (musk, rose, synth ambergris and vanilla, overall smoother than the current Aventus dry down). Hints of leather (a la Aventus/Royal Vintage) come up along the journey but in a pretty minimal way. The juice is surely fresh, "projectful, "modernly classic" and fancy but by no means seriously groundbreaking. A nice virile concoction (finally rosey/lemony, smokey and amberish) which is anyway far to be "credible", original and innovative. Another lost occasion, sorry.
20th November, 2017 (last edited: 21st November, 2017)

Orchidea by Louis Cardin

Orchidea is another Louis Cardin's attempt to follow the comfortable route of a successful market: combine a tad of the classic Tom Ford Black Orchid's "edible milky/semi-gourmandish/humid orchid" with a twist of the fruitier Black Orchid Voler de Fleur (with a soft whiff of initial hesperidic medicinal) and you will have this powerful spicy floral concoction. Cinnamon, gardenia, orchid and patchouli are olfactory stars. A tad of honeyed chocolate? Super feminine and creamy-spicy with a sensual temperament though not something particularly original. Dry down is softer (creamy-woody) and far more enjoyable than all the rest.
16th November, 2017 (last edited: 17th November, 2017)

Ombra di Tiglio by L'Erbolario

Super laundry-leafy take on a (soapy-victorian) damp rose/geranium-accord. Kind of synth but pleasant. A sort of "neutral-abstract" soapy-barber shoop silvan aroma. Lot kind of detergent cleansing toilette rose-water. Along the way a green tea-like sort of vibe (citrus, sharp floral "aqueous/transparent" notes, musk) a la Bvlgari Pour Homme jumps up providing a more classic cologney twist.
11th November, 2017

Patchouly by L'Erbolario

Musky. L'Erbolario Patchouly is definitely a dignified patch-based combosition unfolding a sort of soapy-powdery patchouli-rendition with an evident presence of dusty iris, balmy vanilla and ylang-ylang. Dry floral notes and a tad of earthiness balance the yet presence white "talkiness". Quite recommended to all those people looking for a pleasant wearable patchouli with a spicy-floral-musky radiancy.
11th November, 2017

Givenchy Gentleman (new) by Givenchy

Totally raped the original formula. Damn violet (at least in my perception), saltiness and synth harsh woodiness, an umpteenth sort of Trussardi Uomo new, Gentleman Only or bla bla bla. A pathetic collapse. A nightmare.
05th November, 2017 (last edited: 06th November, 2017)

Jimmy Choo Man Ice by Jimmy Choo

A translunar uninspired aromatic/vaguely minty collage of Dior Homme Cologne, Givenchy Gentleman Only, Versace Eros, Bvlgari Man Extreme and Guerlain L'Homme Ideal. I get synth "icy/cardamomish" musk, melonal, citron, vetiver, saltiness and benzoinic woodiness.
05th November, 2017

Mood Indigo / Le Cinéma Olfactif : No. 1 - Mood Indigo by Folie à Plusieurs

An aroma straight outta chemical/pharmaceutical "sterilized" firm. A cedary/incensey neo-futuristic alchemy of new-age perfumery, a languid, diaphanous, liquefied dazzling olfactory spotlight. Mood Indigo smells like something in the middle between an Ulrich Lang's elusive metropolitan creation and an Andrea Maack's aldehydic twist, overall with a sort of woody pencil shavings spark a la Montana Graphite. I get in primis a super liquid "aqueous" frankincense with a sort of metallurgical/hyperbaric/pharmaceutical minimalistic (vaguely floral) vibe. Pepper and aqueous floral notes (lily, freesia, may be gardenia) enhance the dominant chemical twist while I detect a cedary (vaguely pencil shavings), endly drier final effect. I agree on the decidedly generic-synth effect and about the anaemic general "consistency". Extreme woody-incensey minimalism with a touch of "chemist". Nothing special, just for the lovers of this super sharp "cold" restrained genre.
02nd November, 2017

Extravagance D'Amarige by Givenchy

A great green/floral accord with an initial smoky/bitter faint undertone (pink pepper and bitter herbs), a tad of green muskiness and a vaguely hesperidic/baroque appeal. The floral bouquet is rich (violet, iris, orange blossoms and jasmine), almost aristocratic (a la Floris, in a sort of "British" royal way). Dry down is woody and musky with a tad of soapiness. Such a type of fragrances are simply a solid choice in any occasions. Extravagance d'Amarige (on my skin) is bright classic elegance and dynamic charme.
26th October, 2017

Altrove by Acqua dell'Elba

Just tested Essenza di Un'isola Acqua from this italian "house" and I have to say this ranks right up with the 2/3 best aquatics tested by me so far on skin. Perfect balance between "salty" and "creamy/soapy citric" with an amazing green balsamic vibe (and soft breezy floral nuances). Musky, softly musky and salty balmy musky. Really a dreamy and summery scent like a sort of aquatic Must the Cartier Pour Homme's little relative from the southern Mediterranean lands. This juice smells like a never ending bath up in a terrace's pool in front of the sea (the sea iodine under the nose). I smell "minty" myrtle and pine, perfectly complementing salt, citrus, seaweeds and floral/ozonic elements. The aroma of a "bright" june-sunset while waiting the upcoming summer there in the little island (the heart filled with joy and optimism). A juice which tenaciously I recommend to all the ozonics-freaks of this wonderful world.
22nd October, 2017

Tan-Tan by Coquillete Paris

A courageous idea of aromatic failure. Coquillette Paris Tan-Tan is (for long but thankfully not tout court ) another post-modern perfumed "anti-perfume". Dusty, dissonant, strident, leafy, chemical, electrically crazy. Opening (the less creepy part) is by soon intensely floral and prickly-herbal before to become plastically off-putting, sticky and synthetically dusty. The plastic/xerox toner-like smell a la CdG Odeur 71/Odeur 53 is evident, sour-green, acid and vaguely resinous in its floral background. I smell sticky white lymph, coniferous resins, petroleous rubber, dry florals and "a discount kind of leather" (milky/resinous). I detect several incensey/dusty un-liturgical aromatic facets (cold and impersonal) as well, combined with shopper bag-plastic, "liquid woods" (metallic and dry) and rubbed herbs, like smelling on skin a sort of watered down plastic/herbal/floral Durbano Black Tourmaline with figgy/leathery/piney disturbing nuances and with no trace of elegy.
P.S: dry down affords a significant improvement since the juice reduces its rubbery/leafy/dusty facets becoming a more properly leather-floral (almost fur-like) accord with classic woody-leathery-musky-floral elements.
19th October, 2017

Illicit by Jimmy Choo

Positive is my response. Along the first stage it seems to detect a sort of soapier and gentler Thierry Mugler Alien with a dominant (but definitely less "electronic") fresh (vaguely balsamic) sambac jasmine, some creamy orange blossoms and a huge dose of resinous/honeyed white woods. Rose (never earthy or leafy) provides a tad of "cosmetical - pink" delicate soapiness. Amber, musk and honey (a la Elie Saab Le Parfum) grow up gradually with all their dose of fairy elegy. Radiand and well appointed minimalist ambery-floral by Jimmy Choo. Dry down, after several hours is warmer and a tad less interesting.
17th October, 2017

Gentlemen Only Intense by Givenchy

I'd not define it a total scrubber but Only Intense is a somewhat mediocre synth scent combining the angular-metallic-calonic regular Only's vibe with an overdose of sweet spicy tonka, hints of leather and chemical resins. Pepper and incense are overly dosed and too sweet for my pleasure. Pass by.
15th October, 2017

Kenzo World by Kenzo

Minimalistic synth fruity "powdery-candied" amber with a standout breezy/tart peony and a fresh ethereal soapiness. It seems to detect a red-berrish and vaguely gummy/waxy presence probably elicited by ambroxan/jasmine (something finally talky/soapy). I detect a quite tart/leafy ostensibly aquatic vibe. Honestly this juice is a new drop in the ocean of modern perfumery. It finally smells like a soapy detergent.
12th October, 2017

Eau de Rochas by Rochas

A sophisticated monument of "electric" cologne with a dominant brightly citric/herbal/floral minty accord. Neroli, bergamot, basil and rose-jasmine-carnation provide a supremely classic-naïf cologney vibe while an anisic/licoricey/lemony presence discloses a touch of cool "latin" aromatic exoticism. The juice is freshly tart and sparkling, recalling several Guerlain Aqua Allegoria or 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser. Dry down is muskier with an amber/patchouli dominant presence (and quite refined on subtle florals). A classic timeless concept. Stunning bottle from a left back glorious past.
12th October, 2017

Dragonfly by Zoologist Perfumes

A further Zoologist's well crafted olfactory twist. Freehearted and almost oneiric feminine ambery-musky fragrance. A credible synth accord with a radiant brightness. Dragonfly ideally conjugates a typical Andrea Maack's aldehydic combination of papyrus, greens, musky/mineral amber, medicinal lime, white powder and dry flowers with an equally "futuristic" accord of aqueous pond-like florals (lotus, peony, lilac) and synth muskiness a la Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique or Chinatown Bond No. 9. A froozen in time translucent white-green atmosphere. There is all around a dominant medicinal/tart floral muskiness with a sort of mineral/vaguely ozonic spark. Heliotrope and amber slightly tame (along the journey) the dominant lemony/leafy floral tartness but the aroma is all about aldehydes, tart berrish fruits, humid/lymphatic/leafy florals, pharmaceutical lime, secret minerals and aroma chemical green muskiness. Dry down is softer, diaphanous, vaguely talky/poudree and super sophisticated. Ancestral kind of ostensibly vegetal fragrance. The Dragonfly's idea of woman is ethereal and elusive, a "presence" from a sort of muffled and candid/naive untouchable world of innocence, silk and white dreams. Welcome to the ancestral universe of innocence.
10th October, 2017

Floïd by Floïd

A gentlemanly legend.
07th October, 2017 (last edited: 08th October, 2017)