Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2444

Shiny Amber by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

Shiny amber is a quite pretty spicy/watery amber-based fragrance introducing itself with a sort of neo-victorian (hesperides, poudree amber and jasmine) "aplomb" which is immediately kind of soapy-hesperidic and vaguely anisic at same time. Resins are counteracted by citrus and light/airy watery spices, overall in a quite light and versatile sort of fluidy combination. The citric presence smells classic, structured and more than vaguely "cologney" (conjuring in part a sort of "Guerlain Aqua Allegoria's royal atmosphere"). Ginger provides the initial kind of airy/aromatic/minty/anisic twist. I detect cardamom enhancing the fluidy light spiciness while a benzoinic ambery base is a perfect kind of talky shelter for a dominant jasmine's presence. Dry down, though never groundbreaking, smells more than dignified, drier, mossier and delicately refined. A vibrant, light and versatile amber's implementation which (though always organic and warm) smells kind of neo-classic but at same time cleaner, simpler, vaguely rubbery, delicately powdery and essential. The overall effect smells as a kind of synthesis and re-interpretation of two traditional olfactory dimensions (cologney/hesperidic/naïf and powdery/talky chypre).
16th March, 2018

New Suede by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

New Suede, with all its georgic (super natural) "paraphernalia", unveils itself by soon as a typical indie-agrestic sort of rooty concoction (hardly blended by an alchemy of real extraits, dense oils, grass, roots and natural ingredients). The juice strikes me immediately because of its realistic bucolic integralism, the indolic crudeness, a citric presence and the evident absence of any suede-trace (and the alleged paradox of the scent's name itself). One of the first considerations jumping indeed on my mind was: this wild rawness is the exact opposite of the typical suedish refined silkiness. I definitely detect by soon tuberose (intense on its connection with citrus), amberish dustiness (fleeting and fading in a while), mossiness, osmanthus, lemon/orange and seasoned woodiness in a general tornado of misty earthiness, grassiness and hesperides. The agrestic power produces a sort of tobacco/oakmoss presence-illusion under my "delusional" nose. It seems to smell an Abdes Salaam Attar Profumo typical perfume (for instance Sharif, Tabac) with tuberose, oakmoss and tobacco, overall finally gentled by floral notes and sweet dustiness. Suede is ghostly (I'd say absent) till the end but the scent smells creative and intriguingly weird. Dry down is pleasantly resinous (still hesperidic, rooty and woodsy but soothed by vanilla and slightly refined by lush osmanthus) but probably it sounds too much wild and unstructured for my full pleasure.
P.S: waiting a tad longer the final wake smells more civilized, softer, vaguely talky (but in to a chyprey/organic, vaguely vintage/animalic way) and delicately floral (never quite suedish) and this end result deserves definitely my little humble thumbs up.
05th March, 2018

Moonlight in Heaven by By Kilian

Yummy tropical cocktail of coconutty rice, floral notes, citrus and mango: a breezy summer beyond the Paradise. Vetiver comes up at distance as woodsy presage of far exotic islands. Not that sort of structure but pure exotic bliss. An heavenly "dimension" more than a "technical" fragrance itself. A summer as long as a dream.
28th February, 2018
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Déclaration Parfum by Cartier

A gorgeous classy formula (still here in its landmark figgy-cardamomish-hesperidic-waxy neo classic exotic subtleness) which is in the parfum-version slightly (minimally imo) re-modulated (namely reduced in aqueous/cardamomish/coniferous/spicy freshness and enriched in warmer woody-oriental consistency). Silky, warm, waxy, musky and suedish this Edp is destined to classicism. The freshly exotic vibe is now "restrained" and the juice smells barely drier and silkier (with its super silky musky-waxy-figgy-suedish aura). The spicy-hesperidic-floral exuberant complexity of the Edt is reduced (the aroma itself and evolution are less articulated in the top and the central stages and finally more nuanced in the final musky-waxy trail). The figgy presence (or better the figgy-waxy feel) is in here reinforced in perfect harmony with the increased oriental (woody-balmy) "ancestry". The woody reinforcement (mild, moderate and never "gassy-cedary" as usual in many contemporary woods-oriented perfumes), yet notable is never excessive. I still prefer the hardly perfectible iconic edt but this new warmer more tenacious subtle "fine musky turn" could be a solid alternative for colder seasons and formal night-out outfits. A great fragrance always impeccable and well balanced, a weapon for the modern seducer still loyal to a classic concept of elegance but with a glance to a "cleaner" contemporary type of taste and a more minimalistic and radiant sense of aesthetic.
24th February, 2018 (last edited: 25th February, 2018)

Gentlemen Only Absolute by Givenchy

A light improvement on the original mediocrely metallic Only. Aromatic spicy vanilla and warmer sandalwood. A fresly spicy/hesperidic light creamy sandalwood with a soapy barbeshop neo-classic (ostensibly aldehydic) vibe. Finally sweetish-amberish (still aromatic) and close to a whichever Roccobarocco Extraordinary for Men, CH 212 Sexy Man or Cuba Paris Cuba Gold.
P.S: After a couple of hours this juice smells a tad better, it smells on my skin weirdly "90's" indeed, like a sort of sweeter (dustier) mix of D&G PH old italian formula and Joop Nightflight.
17th February, 2018 (last edited: 03rd March, 2018)

Dark Side of the Goddess by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

Aromatic notes, nutmeg and light resins joined in to a "flat" vegetal accord. Dark Side of the Goddess opens with an "O'driuesque" humid-culinary herbal blast exalting prevalently spicy bay, woodsy resins, herbal notes and myrtle-oil (jump on mind partially Linfedele 1003, Londa 1006, Vis et Honor etc). There is a sort of wet minty-medicinal vibe all around for a while (mostly provided by bay, aromatic plants and myrtle oil). Aromatic ingredients, green dampness, leafy/minty floral patterns and resins are heady on this stage. Well calibrated opoponax and frankincense are immediately detectable, being everything but liturgical, heavy or austere (on the contrary waving out fresh and leafy throughly). Evolution is frankly less laborious than initially expected. Olfactory consistency and "craftamanship" turn immediately out as artisanal and alchemic prerogatives. The final wake is still spicy, vaguely medicinal and delicately floral. Nothing dark or austere under my mediocre nose. A freshly spicy "spring-time oriented" vegetal accord for the lovers of sprouting out spring time nature.
17th February, 2018 (last edited: 18th February, 2018)

In New York by Van Cleef & Arpels

Super generic ozonic-metallic piece of olfactory urban-fougere aqueous boredom, nothing we have not yet copiously smelt 1000 times in life (Lanvin l'Homme, Bond N. 9 Wall Street, Mercedes Benz Man Blue, partially Chanel Bleu, CH 212 Men, Dior Homme Cologne ecc). Nothing new under the sun.
14th February, 2018

Marte Evolution by Battistoni

Cypress, dark rooty patchouli, resins, aromatic earthiness and amberish suede in a bewitching ashy "sombre-urban" accord. Marte Evolution (bottle is a work of art) strikes out as a perfect fragrance under my protectionist nose. Try ideally to combine vintage Cacharel Pour Homme with Clive Christian X for men, adding hints of well calibrated smokey suede and dark synth (peppery) ambergris, well Evolution should adumbrate itself on the horizon as an edgy ghost. Opening is all about fresh fizzy/floral sparkling vetiver. Sage and muguet are heady, together with a starring cypress (bracing, cool, aromatic, herbal). Rosemary? Dry down is gradually drier and drier with this opaque soft ashy-suedish (vaguely incensey and definitely smoky) vibe. A sombre piece of urban perfection.
14th February, 2018

Ghost House by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

A one of a kind, totally weird (in a good sense) one. A phantasmagoric house in the middle of forest, a foggy transilvanian early morning. A fragrance which manages to be cold and warm all in one. A Ghost House represents my first approach with the Anna Zworykina's alchemic experience and I have to say that this scent lives up to its sinister name. A misty, indecipherable, vaguely floral, balsamic aura envelopes by soon my senses in a sort of fuzzy, translucent, transcendent, puzzling vaguely medicinal embrace. This ghostly misty-resinous aroma is balsamic/medicinal, rooty/herbal and ashy/smoky/cedary/vaguely mineral at same time (supposedly this complex effect kind of being mostly provided by choya loban, cassia, cistus and leafy rose). Conceptually I catch elements in common with the Durbano Black Tourmaline's impersonal and abstract mistiness but whereas the latter turns out prevalently mineral and ashy A Ghost House is more properly vegetal, kind of hay-like (abstractly woody) and medicinal (with a sort of muffled kind of leafy-vegetal, hay-like, ostensibly aldehydic and "hyperbaric" vibe a la Andrea Maack). The note of oudh is in here basically rubbery under my profane nose. Frankincense and choya loban are not traditionally incensey but more weirdly vegetal, ashy, rooty, vaguely rubbery/leathery, gasseous and pharmaceutical (partially a la Boadicea the Victorious Complex and Santa Maria Novella Nostagia). Evolution is not laborious, just the juice becoming more and more warm, smoky, abstract, woody-rooty and balsamic along the way. Dry down smells like a watered down (not in a bad acception) sort of Hascish Homme by Veejaga. I recommend testing this fragrance to all those nonconformist and solitary spirits with the deep soul intimately sucked by dark forest's mysterious loneliness.
11th February, 2018 (last edited: 12th February, 2018)

Siberian Musk by Areej le Doré

Grand "neo-georgian" old Hotel-high class neo chypreism. Woodsy muskiness from the high rocky mountain forests. An old school leather-poudree's deja-vu, a decrepit cobbler's "boots polish-smelling" shop. Areej Le Dore Siberian Musk is a multisensorial flashback of my "lusty middle-class's style" childhood (massive leather sofà, austere wooden libraries) , the vintage chypre-age's come back-illusion. Close my eyes and...a little bar of soap, cleanising rose-water, cleaning room detergent-medicinal aroma in the air, retro dark-brown furniture, wood's polish, a french glorious vintage floral chypre fragrance on the bathroom shelf, a black musk-embrace, polished leather boots. Siberian Musk is today a clamorous contemporary link between the old school more straighforward powdery chypreism (Molinard Habanita, Moustace Rochas, Guerlain Djedi, Oleg Cassini, Capucci Punjab) and a new generation neo-vintage waxy/animalic/musky twist a la Bogue Maai, House of Matriarch Bohemian Black, Vero Profumo Onda or Zoologist Civet (and Camel as well), passing across the muskiest Abdul Samad Al Qurashi's. Siberian Musk unfolds a supremely evocative atmosphere of disappeared brilliant precious things. Hesperides, animalic musk and woodsy-resinous coniferous (mostly natural) elements are the olfactory pillars of this aromatic homage to an old school chypre-grandeur. The musky presence is quite intense, yes in your face, medicinal, rubbery (boot-polish like), waxy and mouldy (with a vague mushroom-like humid atmosphere). I'd add hints of dust, aromatic resinous burning effluviums, balsamic candless and a tad of "wood's maceration". This feel is at same time organic (yes visceral as a kind of fecal/stale post-coital muffled warmth) and vaguely floral with a spark of dainty fruity/floral more "processed" sophistication. To be clear: muskiness (musk deer) is extreme, rubbery (boot polish-like), mouldy (vegetal musk, barks, seasoned/smoky woods, dry leaves) and animalic (salty, "private parts-stale sweat miasma-conjuring" and fecal), all the rest is merely accessorial under my profane nose. Galbanum and fir resins provide the general balsamic coniferous rocky mountains-atmosphere. Despite I have to ascertain that Siberian Musk is perfectly blended frankly I don't know how this juice could not be fully fledged "placed" at the highest levels of the animalic scale since the animal musky's vibe (gradually soaring along the way) is extreme and uncompromising, pungent and "compulsive". The boisterous muskiness does not hamper nonetheless the quality of proportions. It even provides (at distance) a sort of well calibrated dandy ancestral (and somewhat cultural) ambience of old dusty books, aristocratic antiquities and burning incenses. The first stage (especially the top) unveils a concert of diverse nuances (mostly floral, citric, waxy/powdery and boise balsamic) while gradyally and along dry down the juice provides a drier more properly "rotten" and straighforward intimate (leathery/musky) feel. Siberian Musk is not an easy fragrance to be appropriately worn but I can't deny It could be confortably "exhibited" by all the lovers of mysticism, cozy mountain huts, dusty libraries or intellectual unmentionable rendez-vous.
06th February, 2018 (last edited: 07th February, 2018)

Black V by AJ Arabia

AJ Arabia Black V (nothing seriously black with this sunny-peachy creation) is another creamy/resinous tuberose-rendition. Peach, orangy tuberose and cinnamon are definitely dominant, the oudh's rendition is kind of "volatile" a la Agarwood Heeley or Maria Lux Deeply, there is a peachy delicate soapiness exaling from my skin, something quite spicy and balmy. Almost zero evolution, the aroma (initially humid and fruity) just tends to turn gradually out a tad drier and soapier (the resinous/wet feel tends to progressively calm down towards a slightly drier consistency). Dry down is creamy/vanillic and honeyed, just a step before the gourmandish-boundaries (caramel utterly enhances the "creamy-yummy" general vibe). Unisex. A super captivating kind of "edible" juice. Poor structure, excellent duration, good projection. Nothing seriously compelling under the sun.
03rd February, 2018

Papavero Soave / Sweet Poppy by L'Erbolario

Plummy-liquorous accord of vanilla and patchouli surrounded by a valzer of floral notes and delicate herbal patterns. Overall is somewhat amberish, peachy, floral and vaguely anisic/heliotropic. Jasmine, neroli, lilac and dusty poppy stand out. A pleasant floral spring-time joyful little fragrance from L'Erbolario.
01st February, 2018

Best by Lomani

Yes a musky gem, an obscure dry blend of fresh herbal notes, green lime, roots, oakmoss, fern and coniferous resins with a final woody/ambery warmer dry down. Super virile, bracing, saturnine and melancholic. In the same league as Borsalino by Borsalino and Enrico Coveri Pour Homme but more leaned towards the aromatic/fougere side of the moon (with Azzaro's like kind of accents). Immensely invigorating at morning with its dry/earthy/musky/gingery feel. Another great classic for straighforward nostalgic moody fellows as me.
27th January, 2018 (last edited: 18th October, 2018)
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Classic Collection : Black Musk by Monotheme

This Monotheme's one is all about fresh/fluidy spices, smooth patchouli, barks and woods. A sort of watered down Ysl M7 with no soul, evanescent structure and fleeting duration. Super synthetic and finally disturbing. Any muskiness under my amateur nose (just chemical cardamomish woodiness).
27th January, 2018 (last edited: 28th January, 2018)

Acqua di Portofino Donna by Acqua di Portofino

Acqua di Portofino Donna is a radiant multifaceted fruity-floral creation oozing out a joyful and optimistic sense of life. A carefree and full of "brightness" kind of woman appears with all her dose of energy, juvenile sensuality and willfulness. There is a languid, balmy and almost edible (juicy and creamy) smooth soapy floral twist in its aroma. This kind of almost edible vibe is enhanced by olive-oil's presence, a common thread for Acqua di Portofino. Magnolia is dominant and provides its unique kind of grassy/floral refinement while lemon and ginger (may be even cardamom) imprint a fresh, vaguely fizzy/sparkling, energy. I detect a kind of peachy fruity presence which is kind of ghostly and hardly discernible. A summery and dazzling type of creation eliciting the image of a dreamy, gaudy and relaxed mediterranean summer.
22nd January, 2018

Notte by Acqua di Portofino

90's in style but 80's in soul (the deep dry down) and with a vague marine twist. Notte Eau de toilette Intense is my first approach with the refined italian niche perfume-House Acqua di Portofino, a promising exclusive brand counting among its ranks an experienced high perfumer the caliber of the great Maurizio Cerizza (Roccobarocco, Cale Fragranze d'Autore with the amazing creations Preludio d'Oriente and Mistero, Onyrico, Panama 1924, Profumi di Pantelleria with the supremely weird and boisterous Maestrale, just to quote several). Well, this fragrance is really amazing guys, I'm impressed. Despite not properly being my ideal kind of perfume-style Notte Intense has fully caught up my pleasure and attention. The great quality of this fragrance is the Cerizza's skillful ability to conjugate mediterranean "seaside kind of nostalgic" poetry and super-virile traditional italian olfactory masculineness, overall in a quite impeccable creation that inspires at same time either the idea of a "reserved" (almost shy and surely refined) mediterranean dreamer (inclined to loneliness and nostalgia, with love for the poetry and the sea enlightened at night) and the image of a reassuring virile well tailored protective man, strong, broad minded, mondane, unapologetic and full of charm (with appreciation for the impeccable italian style, a la Caraceni 1913). Notte Intense is indeed at same time a fragrance with a poetic Mediterranean meditative (kind of introspective) dry musky-floral temperament and with a quite warmer spicy/herbal/woody/leafy virile vibrant (gentlemanly and mondane a la V&A Tsar) appeal. Another quality of this fragrance is that it combines a typical classic woody-herbal (aromatic fougere) tradition (a la Borsalino by Borsalino) with a more recent 90's woody-floral (slightly marine) "melancholic" execution a la Guy Laroche Horizon or Joop Nightflight. This is the scent of an endless italian summer night populated by ghosts and fairies, islands and swinging boats, couples in love and unrequited loves, far memories and secret pains, bonfires and struggling songs played by guitar on the shore next to the sea. This is a fragrance that whispers all the secrets of an italian seaside summer night, the coast's promenade illuminated by the Portofino's shimmering lights, something really close (even if far spicier/earthier and more complex) in style to romantic summery scents a la Joop Nightflight (like ideally encountering in a game of "amorosi sensi" scents a la Bleu de Chanel Edp, Lanvin L'Homme, Bond N. 9 Wall Street, Guy Laroche Horizon, Henry Cotton's in Blu, Chopard Heaven, Byblos Uomo and Cool Water Davidoff) but far more refined, complex, virile and mysterious. I detect the marine accord (well calibrated and connected to hesperides, which I'd define aqueous and not throughly ozonic-marine) but I even pick up a kind of fougere herbal tone, a soapy spiciness, a really piquant/ambery/woody more restrained masculine dry down (with powerhouse nuances and conjurations in style). There is a floral soft poetic twist in the air (aqueous and moody) while I get a pungent (almost animalic) salty-organic vibe conjuring the warmth of a mature man-skin's "pheromonial" aroma under the bed sheets. What else? A deep and encompassing (even aromatic) earthy-herbal-vaguely smokey hidden soul (olive wood, butterbush and further aromatics) conjuring me vaguely scents a la Borsalino Chapeau, Clive Christian X for men and Pomellato Uomo. The olive oil-presence introduces a soothing soapy refined element which (connected to warm musk) counteracts the hidden grassy/leafy rootiness while the "aqueous floral presence" fills the wide residual olfactory space. Dry down is really bold and virile since olive wood, musk and ambergris provide an extremely charismatic and commanding spicy/earthy, organic and musky-rough restrained trail. I recommend to purchase this great fragrance to all those dreaming gentlemanly free-spirits with good taste, mediterranean sense of class and refinement, love for the sea, the yachting marinas, the little ship's stores, for the starry italian summer-night (with its boats, fires, the seaside little family -run restaurants, the moonlight reflected on the sea-water) and with the supreme belief that life must be fully enjoyed by travelling, exploring new lands, tasting excellent foods&wines and following love relentlessly till the end all over the world.
21st January, 2018 (last edited: 24th August, 2018)

Muschio Bianco / White Moss by L'Erbolario

A white, lactonic, kind of waxy-nectarinic musk with a bright angular hesperidic opening and a soapy dry down. Smooth and pleasant, with a subtle floral wave. An easy-going body lotion for young sensual high school teenagers.
20th January, 2018

Larmes du Désert by Atelier Des Ors

What a mesmerizing woody-resinous composition my Lords!!! I agree with the always excellent Buzzlepuff since I notice a great game of proportions and balancements, despite "handling" resins in perfumery is never particularly easy. Resins and spices are in here sapiently calibrated while the dominant woods smell dry, smoky, peppery, seasoned, secular. This misty and moody Atelier Des Or's woody/incensey fragrance (especially if taken in its top and central stages than in its starker dry down, more than Sahara Noir or L' Air di Desert Marocain) conjures me up the medieval Etro Messe de Minuit first formulation with its sacramental secular rituality, with its atmosphere of damp-moldy secret basements, burning torches, tight alleys of the medieval town and religious ceremonies. While Messe the Minuit appears more properly resinous, spicy and "burning" with its holy liturgical cremation of resins (frankincense and opoponax), Larmes du Desert is (initially more balsamic, than finally) more woody, arid, smoky and subtle (basically more austere and balanced with its silent perfect secular burnt abstraction). One of the woodiest scents I've tested on skin in which the straighforward woodiness smells finally almost (ostensibly) salty. This French House is one of the most experienced and qualified Maison in the woods/resins-appointments out there. Another eccellent fragrance from Atelier Des Ors.
16th January, 2018

Narciso Sublime / Sublime Narcissus by L'Erbolario

Narciso Sublime is a creamy melange of fruity and floral notes, hard to be described. Kind of balmy-floral, peachy, radiant and mellow. Freesia provides bright "joyful" freshness while orange and peaches, joined with amber and milky honey, grant a quite white-mellow fruity/creamy twist. Dynamic and vibrant sunny ambery-floral creation for a brilliant temperament.
14th January, 2018

Nazareno Gabrielli pour Homme by Nazareno Gabrielli

Nazareno Gabrielli (a super-cheap perfume that sometimes in Italy you could even retrieve and purchase in to a market discount) is a quite pleasant woody/aromatic fragrance founded over a game of contrasts between woody tobacco on one side and floral/aromatic/citric notes on the other side. Mimosa deserves a prominent position in the parade of elements and contributes to variegate the yet articulated aroma with its sunny, delicate, vaguely spicy and "pollen-nuanced" scent. Mint and lavender are responsible of the general aromatic undertone and are counteracted by a dominant resinous orangy vaguely toasted tobacco. Really a mediterranean accord, a juice strong on the tobacco-presence and definitely close to the D&G Pour Homme's earlier (made in Italy by Euroitalia) formula (just finally more woody and tobacco-oriented). Dry down is fresh, restrained, quite virile and classy. You don't need necessarily to invest a lot of money to wear a more than decent fragrance.
13th January, 2018

Fiore dell’Onda by L'Erbolario

An ethereal and nostalgic balmy seaweeds-founded floral creation. Fiore dell'Onda is a soapy floral/ozonic L'Erbolario's creation which is pratically identical (but far less expensive) to the "fashionable" Profumum Roma Acqua di Sale. Aqueous "fairy tale like" floral notes (lilac, may be lotus and violet) are tenderly soothed by a dainty wave of balmy ozonic notes and soft musky vanilla. Unisex, beloved by women. A compliment getter musky-ozonic romantic accord (void of structure and evolution) which nonetheless is not my cup of tea.
11th January, 2018

Mûre Sauvage / Blackberry by Yves Rocher

Blackberries, musk and hints of lavender. A pale synth version of the classic Mure et Musc by L'Artisan Parfumeur.
10th January, 2018

Mûre et Musc by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A nowadays classic piece of musky fragrance conjuring me a lot a friend which used to wear this accord many years ago. A romantic yet elusive balanced combination of lemon, soft greens, blackberries and musc. Unlike the "Extreme" version I detect an herbal/hesperidic aromatic twist making the aroma fresh and versatile. A solid particular musky fougere longly emulated by diverse following unsuccessful "olfactory attempts".
10th January, 2018

Vanille Bourbon / Bourbon Vanilla by Yves Rocher

A warm bewitching buttery bourbon vanilla which also smells about seasoned woods, burnt myrrh, spicy patchouli, karité butter and honeyed caramel. Enveloping and quite exotic. No florals. To me Yves Rocher Vanille Bourbon smells quite close to Vanille Noire du Mexique by La Maison de la Vanille (less the rosey presence).
10th January, 2018

Black Oud by LM Parfums

Spectral and saturnine this furiously dark and melancholic "metropolitan" concoction is another potion for nocturnal "suburbian" wanderers, bloodthirsty werewolves, beastly metal rockers with gothic pervertions and hooded wizards with Black Magic's skills. Definitely one of the Batman's pretty favorite fragrances and a drier (more calibrated) sort of Nasomatto Black Afgano-"remake" (actually something in the middle way between Black Afgano and Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis). Well, whoever has tried on skin Black Afgano could easily declair that LM Parfums Black Oud is definitely an almost identical, just slightly "polished-cleaner" (which does not mean more simplistic) twin. Really hard to note any difference "at distance" unless you are in the clan of perverted perfumistas as me being here to delight my (and may be yours) "profane olfactory Inquisition". In this case I can tell you that I note a slightly lighter (less dense, less syrupy/rubbery and coffee-deprived) texture, a more intricate spiciness and a vaguely mossier (more aromatically spicy-musky) undertone. Black Afgano smells (to me) smokier, more incensey-rubbery and earthier while Black Oud smells mossier, spicier and muskier. Civet, cumin and nutmeg (in their messy juxtapositions) enhance a woody, intensely visceral, melancholic, salty-mild "litany" which finally waves delicate in the darkness. I don't know about hashish (is or isn't in here present?) but I get as well a rubbery presence (cistus, galbanum), a spicy frankincense, a dark mossy amber while I don't catch an equally rich Nasomatto's smokey "resinousity". Woods are drier and more "liquid" though the animalic presence provides in here as well a quite warmer viscerality and the final dryness (never sliding towards any Montale Dark Aoud's woody starkness) is mitigated by a well calibrated creamy final soapiness (vanilla). Frankly the spongy/soft vetiver's presence (notable in Black Afgano) is in here veiled by musks and further elements. There is another subtle difference, the woodiness (sandalwood in particular) is in here less "gassy" and finally more soapy/creamy, surely more wearable and confortable. Overall assumed, I perceive a more balanced and wearable kind of scent, with a secret musky intimate soul and a soapy/balmy spirit. Try It before purchasing (especially if you are not familiar with rave parties and exorcisms), a blind buy could slam you down in a dark alley of appalling unmentionable things.
08th January, 2018 (last edited: 09th January, 2018)

Sensual Orchid by LM Parfums

A soapy/almondy accord of heliotropic jasmine (the real star), balmy-cosmetic orchid, musky ylang-ylang and soapy musky peony, the kind of fragrance which could smell appealing to all the Tom Ford Black Orchid's supporters but Sensual Orchid is far far better. Where soapiness becomes celestial.
08th January, 2018

Camel by Zoologist Perfumes

Another winner straight outta Zoologist's secret alchemic rooms. Camel, on the side of the previous Civet, is another neo-classic fruity/animalic chypre (animalic in effects cause appointed with declaredly synthetic ingredients) founding its roots (I'd say its background) over a glorious olfactive tradition of golden gems and rich super-classy "melanges" from venerable "maison" as Fendi, Chanel, Lanvin, Estee Lauder, Patou or La Perla. Camel is a luxuriant spicy-oriental gem with a Golden arabesque inner hypnotism like in a tale of "Thousand and One night" (conjuring the idea of red-brown dunes, shimmering constellations, desert Touareg, touring camels, Imperial Sultan-Palaces full of minarets, harem, courts, golden gates, bronze armors and glittering diamonds). Camel is a musky/resinous and fruity/floral melange. Try for a second to ideally combine the impeccable chypre classicism of scents a la Roccobarocco, Estee Lauder Youth Dew, Lanvin Arpege or Fendi by Fendi with a modern orientalism of creations appointed by Lutens, Neela Vermeire or Arabian Oud. The creator (in this case nearby Zoologist) Christian Carbonnel is a talented performer of "richly golden oudish/resinous neo-classic contemporary fragrances" (for instance for Masque, Sospiro and several "arabian" new houses as Suhad Perfumes) well qualified in the combination of classicism and modern orientalist oudish aesthetic. Camel is neo-classic but "modernely" delicious. The resinous (musky-fruity-floral-waxy-vanillic-spicy) presence conjures me a lot a similar vibe lurking in several creations from Cerchi Nell'Acqua (Usmar Venezia), Paul Emilien (L'Esprit Divin), House of Matriarch (Bohemian Black) or Neela Vermeire (Ashoka, Trayee) but also several Serge Lutens (Arabie, La Myrrhe, Feminite du Bois, Bois et Fruits etc) , Annick Goutal (Mon Parfum Chéri Par Camille) or Cale' (Mistero or Preludio d'Oriente) jump vaguely on mind. There is anyway as well a subtle (and well measured) musky-fruity-floral lingering spark under my nose, a sophisticated well orchestrated twist connecting my synapses with a great tradition represented by Guerlain (vaguely Samsara which is far drier), Fendi, Roccobarocco or Van Cleef& Arpels. Camel is super rich, resinous, spicy-plummy (spicy apricot, plum, peaches?) and musky-rosey (with a dominant musky-incensey accord of rose, dried fruits, spicy resins, ostensibly animalic accents and honeyed-amber). It possesses a luxurious mystic rosey soul enriched by burnt liquorous sugar, honeyed spices, dry fruits, waxy woods and olibanum. I detect definitely a remarkable presence of smooth vetiver and creamy sandalwood along dry down, overall supported by fruity musk, myrrh, incense and agarwood. The overall effect is quite exotic and royal, a poetic wave from the desert teleporting the wearer back to a disappeared dimension of Caliphs, lavish decorations, hidden treasures and "arabesque sunsets". Dry down is finally far more restrained, piquant, dirty, rooty/ambery and hermetic (I'd say unisex in vibe, with a "closer" sillage). Without fear of contradiction I can affirm that Zoologist Camel can proudly stand side by side with the most "Imperial" and luxuriant creations of the entire worldwide perfumery's history (classic, neo-classic and "arabic"), placing "again" Zoologist among the most convincing houses of the modern olfactory scene. Period.
07th January, 2018 (last edited: 08th January, 2018)

Mito Parfum Extrait by Vero Profumo

A sort of Claude Monet La Grenouillere's olfactory rendition, a languid mossy-floral extrait for "white linen laces" dressed Grand Dames with a neenetheenth century spirit and a cultured soul. One of the most refined musky magnolia's renditions of the whole olfactory universe. Magnolia waves in the air royal, aristocratic, rich of musky/resinous/leafy/hesperidic accents and baroquely colonialist. A touch of peachiness, perfectly laced with tuberose, provides color and intensity. Nature and art meet eachother in this impressionistic waxy-floral-musky masterpiece. A drop of this Vero Profumo's extrait is enough to dream a Provencal day, the drowsy whispers of bugs, a boat ride along the river in a sunny lazy day of a disappeared manneristic age. Poetry in perfumery.
06th January, 2018

AB ± Cashmere by Uèr Mì

Almost a copy of Costume National Scent (Scent more than Scent Intense which is richer), the same glamour "burnt-sugary floral-amber dominant" twist (with osmanthus in replacement of the Scent's Mother Pearl of Hibiscus) plus a tad of soothing vanilla. As in CN Scent/Scent Intense the synthetic ambergris is in here "burnt-sugary", mellow, dark, vaguely "furry" and finally suedish (the suede-vibe is here notable despite a not listed leathery presence). A captivating night-out elusive musky fragrance with a dark misty patchouli, woods (a notable creamy-suedish sandalwood) and an enigmatic dusty suede. A "clubbing kind of creation", chic and "fashionable". Medium rating cause it is pratically the CN Scent's twin. For a dark leather jacket and an urban metrosexual outfit.
05th January, 2018 (last edited: 25th February, 2018)

Riflesso by Trussardi

Finally a more than decent release from the House of Trussardi after long time, a discreet, well balanced, smooth, slightly smokey, suedish, classy-refined fragrance, a sort of lighter Ysl L'Homme Parfum Intense (considered in its dry down) as ideally combined with the classic Burberry for Men. I detect a sort of smokey/cedary (tobacco-oriented and slightly powdery a la Remy Latour Cigar and Burberry) and vaguely floral-earthy spark combined with a soft tonkinian/suedish final dainty vibe. Soft spices are perfectly modulated and combined with hints of delicate smoke (seasoned woods), tonka, musky cedarwood and balsams. Vetiver, lavender, bergamot, apple and musk provide a soft sense of dry discreet freshness while the kind of white (slightly balmy) suede/woods accord conjures me partially scents a la Solo Soprani and L'Erbolario Corteccia. Dry down is veguely floral, mossy-rooty and restrained, unveiling in interesting harmony a contemporary urban trail with a sort of vaguely vintage/exotic touch a la Etro. Riflesso represents definitely a significant jump ahead for Trussardi after several recent depressing releases (and mediocre remakes). Not bad guys.
04th January, 2018