Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2447

Mito Parfum Extrait by Vero Profumo

A sort of Claude Monet La Grenouillere's olfactory rendition, a languid mossy-floral extrait for "white linen laces" dressed Grand Dames with a neenetheenth century spirit and a cultured soul. One of the most refined musky magnolia's renditions of the whole olfactory universe. Magnolia waves in the air royal, aristocratic, rich of musky/resinous/leafy/hesperidic accents and baroquely colonialist. A touch of peachiness, perfectly laced with tuberose, provides color and intensity. Nature and art meet eachother in this impressionistic waxy-floral-musky masterpiece. A drop of this Vero Profumo's extrait is enough to dream a Provencal day, the drowsy whispers of bugs, a boat ride along the river in a sunny lazy day of a disappeared manneristic age. Poetry in perfumery.
06th January, 2018

AB ± Cashmere by Uèr Mì

Almost a copy of Costume National Scent (Scent more than Scent Intense which is richer), the same glamour "burnt-sugary floral-amber dominant" twist (with osmanthus in replacement of the Scent's Mother Pearl of Hibiscus) plus a tad of soothing vanilla. As in CN Scent/Scent Intense the synthetic ambergris is in here "burnt-sugary", mellow, dark, vaguely "furry" and finally suedish (the suede-vibe is here notable despite a not listed leathery presence). A captivating night-out elusive musky fragrance with a dark misty patchouli, woods (a notable creamy-suedish sandalwood) and an enigmatic dusty suede. A "clubbing kind of creation", chic and "fashionable". Medium rating cause it is pratically the CN Scent's twin. For a dark leather jacket and an urban metrosexual outfit.
05th January, 2018 (last edited: 25th February, 2018)

Riflesso by Trussardi

Finally a more than decent release from the House of Trussardi after long time, a discreet, well balanced, smooth, slightly smokey, suedish, classy-refined fragrance, a sort of lighter Ysl L'Homme Parfum Intense (considered in its dry down) as ideally combined with the classic Burberry for Men. I detect a sort of smokey/cedary (tobacco-oriented and slightly powdery a la Remy Latour Cigar and Burberry) and vaguely floral-earthy spark combined with a soft tonkinian/suedish final dainty vibe. Soft spices are perfectly modulated and combined with hints of delicate smoke (seasoned woods), tonka, musky cedarwood and balsams. Vetiver, lavender, bergamot, apple and musk provide a soft sense of dry discreet freshness while the kind of white (slightly balmy) suede/woods accord conjures me partially scents a la Solo Soprani and L'Erbolario Corteccia. Dry down is veguely floral, mossy-rooty and restrained, unveiling in interesting harmony a contemporary urban trail with a sort of vaguely vintage/exotic touch a la Etro. Riflesso represents definitely a significant jump ahead for Trussardi after several recent depressing releases (and mediocre remakes). Not bad guys.
04th January, 2018
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Quatre Absolu de Nuit pour Homme by Boucheron

This fragrance is based on the previous Boucheron Quatre Pour Homme's concept and structure on which the venerable french house brings a richer (more amberish/dusty), slightly sweeter and darker semi-oriental "therapy". The "original" Quatre Pour Homme is a boring mainstream descendant from a plethora of freshly metallic "neo gentlemanly" experiments, going (with just faint variations) from Lanvin L'Homme to Diesel Only The Brave, passing through Givenchy Gentleman Only, CH 212 Men and Aramis Adventurer. Absolu de Nuit provides a darker/dustier accord of spicy vanilla, sweeter (spicier, cinnamonic) patchouli and dusty ambroxan on the "original" basis. The final outcome is a generic forgettable (sweet/metallic) amberish/tonkinian/salty-sweet experience which (assumed all the specific peculiarities of the following juices) is not so distant from a whichever Jpg Le Beau Male, Davidoff Hot Water, Vince Camuto Pour Homme, Quasar Fire O' Boticario or Prada Luna Rossa. Nothing new under the sun guys.
02nd January, 2018

Black I by AJ Arabia

A volatile "average" soapy-rosey sandalwood. A more than mediocre creation (definitely pleasant but) with not a shred of structure and evolution. This umpteenth "arabian" creation smells delicate and subtle (as the aroma of a bar of soap) on my skin. Super soapy and seriously honeyed but it is not enough. Yes, I detect a sort of Montale's balmy vibe (related to the former house's creamiest, soapiest and spiciest experiments - Mukhallat, Dark Purple, Louban, just to quote several) while I pick up an ostensibly "eastern-arabish" (almost cloudy-volatile) twist a la Guerlain Santal Royal, Heeley Agaewood or Maria Lux Deeply (even if in here the soapiness smells more tangible). Black I is creamy and super cardamomish with a huge dose of soothing cinnamon and saffron lingering on a woody/musky-oriented base. Frankincense is a key reserved "background" element which (combined to musk and sandalwood) determines the general balminess and delicacy. Floral notes (rose, jasmine?), connected to resins and musk, afford a sort of (a la Elie Saab Le Parfum) musky-floral spark (though in this case rooted on a more typically arabic woody-resinous foundation). Any hint of cypress waves under my amateur nose. This juice is unisex but more properly projected towards the glamour femine universe. Dry down is warm, synth in perception and nowadays somewhat generic (Elie Saab Le Parfum, Estee Lauder Modern Muse, JpG Scandal etc, with all the assumed differences). Faint projection and good duration on my decrepit skin.
01st January, 2018 (last edited: 02nd January, 2018)

La Petite Robe Noire Black Perfecto Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

It's not a secret that (at least in part) I don't crave for the most recent course of the Guerlain-style's evolution (Champs Elisees, L'Homme Ideal, several Habit Rouge flankers, Santal Royal, Ambre Eternel, La Petite Robe Noire etc), nonetheless Black Perfecto does not altogether confirm my stable feelings on this new LVMH's parable. Black Perfecto is classically (powdery) chypre, warmly musky and earthy bohemien all in one and unfolds an its own decent articulation. It's like combining a classic powdery-chypre piece of olfactory decadente a la Grossmith Phul Nana or E.Coudray Ambre et Vanille with the darker House of Matriarch Bohemian Black, Chanel Coco Noir and hints of vintage Shalimar. This juice is (on my tender skin) basically a linear black chyprey-poudree rosey/almondy twist, an aromatic powdery cloud darkened down by a synth rush of blackberries, powdery patchouli, smoke and licoricey dark tea. Almondy tonka is prominent (hints of benzoin may have been introduced as well imo). I detect definitely this almondy vibe, a huge dose of sombre powder and a tad of something candied and ephemerally volatile (a la Agarwood Heeley or Maria Lux Deeply). A tad of frankincense? A suedish spark is minimal and fleeting. Patchouli and hints of suede provide a more classic background which is fixing its roots over the historical ancestors' legacy (scents a la Guerlain Jicky, l'Heure Bleue, Petit Guerlain original and Chanel Cuir de Russie). This dark-musky/powdery melange veils down the classic chypre basic ghostly radiancy while projecting a black aura that is at same time sultry, talky-sombre and vintage-bohemian. Hints of well modulated spices close the circle. My medium rating depends on that dry down smells slightly overly musky-warm (vaguely cloying and sultry) on my "juvenile southern silky skin of unsuccessful moonshiny hunter of the seaside". Definitely an improvement on several previous La Petit Robe Noire-experiences and an elusive new creation for a youger contemporary dame with an inner sense of mystery and clandestine palatin charme.
01st January, 2018 (last edited: 02nd January, 2018)

1001 by Nobile 1942

A rush of yellow spices, balms, soft herbs and pepper encompassing the dominant note of ginger. The latter is saffrony, creamy-lemony-greenish and rosey. Rarely I've tested a spicier juice in my whole life of loser perfumista. Spiciness is creamy, peppery, aromatic, rosey and soapy-lemony. With my great surprise vetiver is not in here listed since I detect immediately a burst of fresh gingery/lemony vetiver on skin (may be ginger, combined with dry-metallic tea, provides the fleeting vetiver's illusion). Ginger is in any case the King, a super spicy ginger enveloped by a cloud of Curcuma (the second protagonist), rose-essence and saffron. Rose is never soapy-victorian or leafy-greenish since smells vaguely candied and soapy-creamy. Frankly the excess of spices, combined with lemony ginger, produces a sort of medicinal undertone which is not extremely pleasant for long, at least till when the final 1001's evolution is fully accomplished. An interesting creation by Nobile 1942. Dry down is lighter, darker, more restrained and surely more delicate and subtle, with hints of rosey-musky sophistication and a more prominent herbal influence. In this final stage the aroma is more balanced, classy and masculine (with a far mitigated citric pungency).

01st January, 2018

Blu Mediterraneo Basil / Foglie di Basilico by Acqua di Parma

A quite well appointed take on the note of basil, in here introduced in all its herbal-aromatic-zesty brilliance. Yes a tonic take on basil, bergamot and bitter (minty-aromatic) herbs. I get spices, no flowers. Bergamot (green, fizzy, golden and minty) provides a typical mediterranean vibe, basil is quite herbal and licoricey (exotic in its radiant "projectful" greenness) while spices are well balanced, soothing (taming/mildening the herbal/hesperidic acidity) and somewhat restrained. An optimistic fragrance full of colonial (quite exotic) "brightness". Foglie di Basilico is a good versatile juice (best for a daring fashinating man) for the warmer southern seasons. I suppose Acqua di Parma is by now far better performing on these kinds of neo-classic "blu" experiments rather than on the rest of its more than pretentious line.

31st December, 2017 (last edited: 01st January, 2018)

Agrumi by Farmacia SS. Annunziata

Farmacia SS Annunziata Agrumi is a typical neo-cologney hesperidic concoction with a pleasant balsamic background. Classic and restrained it is an ordinary gentlemanly creation with a dull rush and an impeccable kind of neo-victorian "dimension". This juice could definitely turn out as an appealing one to all those conservative fellows with their eyes turned to the traditional cologney-hesperidic old tradition. Eucalyptus is kind of discreetly balsamic and perfectly complementing the general softly musky-greenish ambience. The aromatic coolness is counteracted by a final kind of soapy-organic powdery/chyprey warmth (this final accord kind of surprisingly leading the aroma from the initially citrusy-cologney stage to a finally musky-animalic chypre territory). The opening is super fizzy and zesty, incredibly lemony and mediterranean; it seems to walk across a lemon grove, to inhale the tart-green aroma of green lemon's shells and leaves while rolling all in the middle of your hands. The scent is quite realistic and vaguely sultry (though quite aromatic and for long more than vaguely minty). Nothing original, or modern-urban despite I pick up a musky-woody-floral sophisticated (and more "fashionable") spark in the air in any case. Dry down is not more zesty, warmer indeed, kind of soapy (veguely amberish-powdery in line with a sort of house-trademark) and more restrained, a close to skin classy aroma for the men loving comforting and citric fragrances (a la 4711 or "Aqua Allegorias") loyal to tradition and measure. Frankly this juice smells on my skin somewhat uninspired and finally linear. Nothing I'd care to recommend.
30th December, 2017

Patchouly Bohème by LM Parfums

Agree with RarePerfume, since Patchouly Boheme is a "huge" take on resinous, herbal, musky and mineral patchouli by LM Parfums. Balsams, leather and (in particular) tobacco ensure the bohemien/dandy/vaguely vintage-touch to this super tenacious musky-suedish patchouli. Opening is angular, mineral, herbal and leafy. I get a quite refined and still herbal/mineral (leathery-herbal-rooty) final wake. An excellent darkly commanding fragrance for the Lords of the scene.
28th December, 2017 (last edited: 02nd January, 2018)

Legend Spirit by Montblanc

Spirit takes the "regular" Legend's structure draging it out in a lighter more than vaguely ozonic (synthetically musky-melony) peppery way. In the JPG Le Beau Male's league under my amateur nose. Lot of cardamom and mild woody-peppery muskiness. A mediocre light uninspired woody-ozonic with hints of amberish-musky synth woody mildness.
26th December, 2017

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme by Gucci

A leather/patchouli's silvan affair. A damp-resinous take on the former uncompromising accord. One of the rare interesting contemporary Gucci's releases in perfumery and definitely a good work from the talented performer Alberto Morillas. Yes, bold, minimalistic and unapologetic, either urban and rustic/outdoorsy juice (great review by Alfarom as usual). Guilty Absolute Pour Homme is a damp/earthy (vaguely gasolinic and barely hesperidic/medicinal) accord of leather, patchouli, wet resins and dry-smoky woods. A sort of lingering woodsy coniferous dampness is along the way counteracted by dry (cedary, somewhat harsh and definitely rooty/earthy) dark woodiness. I detect all around a sort of crude woodsy dampness (yes a la Terre d'Hermes or Rouge Bunny Rouge Tundra) which is slightly tamed by a dominant soothing dry leather's touch. It's like ideally combining all in a single (more linear) solution scents a la Terre d'Hermes (the damp woodsy/liquid earthiness), SoCal Cologne Hollister (the humid, "countryside" leather vibe), Goodsir Bois d'Ascese (smoky woods and burnt resins), Profumum Arso (the leathery-resinous woodsy smoky accord), Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia (the gasolinic leather-chord) and Complex by Boadicea the Victorious (the kind of abstract rubbery-leafy-damp vibe). Cypress provides a general sense of wide/appaling rough mountain (rocky, airy and spacious) a la House of Matriarch Blackbird (which is a basically a different beast connecting coniferous and salty/mineral elements). Frankly I don't get any Fahrenheit's conjuration in the air while I pick up the wet mastic/labdanum-vibe a la Testa Maura Carticasi. A flashback about the Tom Fort's left back Gucci-era? Yes, more than vaguely. On its complex I find Guilty Absolute Pour Homme a solid niche-like (kind of indie/agricole but with a more metropolitan cleaner twist) new designer release due to uplift a lately tarnished house of Gucci's reputation.
21st December, 2017 (last edited: 22nd December, 2017)

Palazzo by Fendi

Palazzo is (was) a refined semi-oriental accord of hesperides,spicy neroli and patchouli, an elegant fragrance surely far from the great Fendi by Fendi's luxurious fur-oriented massive grandeur. Bright, sophisticated and spicy.
18th December, 2017
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Legend Intense by Montblanc

Slightly fruitier/sweeter (as dry down) than the original Legend due to a more stressed pineapple/apple opening. Cardamom, herbs, pineapple and citrus provide the Legend's soul. The central stage is musky-floral while dry down is mastered by synthetic tonka and woods. Vaguely richer and less restrained than the original. A fruity aromatic new generation fougere. Excellent bottle.
16th December, 2017

Legend Night by Montblanc

Slightly disappointed, since I was in my imagination expecting something more original and frankly (conceptually) closer to a better appointed new Azzaro Intense Parfum or something like that. The previous reviewers quite hit the spot since I get amberish/slightly gourmandish overtones on the regular "fizzier" Legend-base (still dominant in its main accord of citrus, greens, fruits, patchouli and tonka). The spicy side is not exclusively represented by cardamom since I detect cloves or nutmeg as well. I quite agree on that Legend Night conjures more than vaguely scents a la Nina Ricci Mamoire d'Homme with lot of elements in common with well known further scents a la Baldessarini Ambre', D&G The One, Amouage Reflection Men, Gaultier Le Beau Male, Ysl Body Kouros, La Nuit de L'Homme, Polo Black and funther. The juice combines the fizzy fruity (somewhat sporty) elements of the "regular Legend" (vaguely floral and tart) with a sweeter side represented by sweet ambroxan, spices and vanilla. Cardamom still provides a scratchy peppery fluidier undertone for long. Dry down is a boring, nowadays mainstream, drier cedary (vaguely pencil shavings) ending. Lovely bottle.
13th December, 2017 (last edited: 13th December, 2018)

Just Rock! pour Lui by Zadig & Voltaire

Turbulent, dusty/incensey and peppery-intoxicating woody-oriental with a woody-ambery-incensey warm sweetish ending, a sort of V&R Spicebomb's far parent with a trendy-chic inebriating development a la One Million, Roccobarocco Extraordinary Man, Ted Lapidus Black Soul or stuffs like those. Sultry. Nuclear performances. Overly sweetish at the end on my skin.
13th December, 2017

Scandal by Jean Paul Gaultier

Honeyed minty-angular patchouli, synthetically glamour-chic, musky,like a sort of ideal Alien/Ange ou Demon/Very Irresistibile/Elie Saab Le Parfum's "fruit of passion" (the sophisticated "kind of frosty/anisic" floral element being in this case the languid gardenia). Urban and trendy.
07th December, 2017 (last edited: 11th December, 2017)

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Noir Ambré by Issey Miyake

A mystic combination of roasted leather and soapy-spicy "fumee'" waxy-honeyed amber a la Miller Harris La Fumee Maroc. A flamboyant honeyed spicy oriental focused on smoky leather (utterly dried down by harsh papyrus and burnt resins/elements from the woods) and old spices. Along the way I get a sort of rubbery touch of creamed myrrh/frankincese. The soon collapsing structure does not live up the relentless flow of time.
04th December, 2017 (last edited: 11th December, 2017)

Pure XS by Paco Rabanne

A more than mediocre super chemical gingery/cardamomish/woody aroma with zero structure and articulation.
04th December, 2017

Extreme Night by Michael Kors

Synth woodiness, rubber and angular frozen peppery spices. A super balsamic rubbery reverie from the extremely metallurgical winter Tokyo-suburbia's techno night.
04th December, 2017

SoCal Cologne by Hollister

Interesting cause one of a kind, I get angular and dry fruity notes, an undiscernible sort of humid edible element from the wood, woody resins, malt, coconut, bark, sweet musk, patchouli and soft suede. Cozy and "country side type". A teenager in leather jacket "at saloon" kind of fragrance. Southern? Yes, may be. Tropical? Naa.
P.S: recently I've tested Iceberg Man which smells in its dry down almost identical to SoCal Cologne on my skin.
03rd December, 2017 (last edited: 11th January, 2018)

Zara Spicy by Zara

A sort of Viktor&Rolf Spicebomb's close relative (a powerful nutmeg/clove/cinnamon-centered dominant accord) with a notable synth pencil shavings lingering woodiness which I don't crave for.
03rd December, 2017

Wow! by Joop!

Nothing special, just a decent conventional synth take on woody dry/earthy (vaguely percil shavings along the way) geranium/violet combo with a final touch of soothing tonkinian vanilla (in order to warm up and balance the angular hesperidic/woody/floral main accord). Joop follows the trend represented by many new generation designer virile (and utterly woody) synth dry woody/floral which are by now a sort of must (and which let me totally indifferent). I agree on that Wow smells similar to Armani Eau de Nuit but also to several Fendi, Gucci (Gucci PH 2) or further designer creations crowding the shops shelves.
02nd December, 2017 (last edited: 04th December, 2017)

Phoenix Fougere by The Rising Phoenix Perfumery

A jasmine/neroli-centered cologney twist in a semi-oriental spicy/resinous heavier vest. A mesmerizing initially zesty neo-classic cologney jasmine's rendition re-interpreting in a contemporary "resinous" key a traditional fresher classic/naif hesperidic-floral formula a la Guerlain Aqua Allegorias, Acqua di Biella n.1, Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale or 4711 (the classic one and Aqua Colonia Mandarin&Cardamom). Lavender, petitgrain, bergamot, rosemay and verbena are reputedly present in the mix. Incredibly close for a while (on my skin) to Askett&English Absolute (which is a lighter kind of cologne) with its enchanting neo-classic accord of jasmine, ylang-ylang, cardamom and orange blossoms, just Phoenix Fougere being denser with its heavier central presence of tonka bean, sticky davana, resins and patchouli. Davana, may be myrrh and tonka provide in particular nutty final substance, darkness and density. I get as well a sort of amberish/resinous vetiver's presence a la Eau Sauvage Parfum, being the latter quite close to the final PF's dry down. I detect a lingering touch of soapiness throughout. A fragrance rich of nuances, classic and contemporary all at once, quite good for office-wear or for a refined (vaguely decadet) gala event in aristocratic locations.
28th November, 2017

Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain

Epitome of the classic Eau de Cologne, the excellence in its genre, hesperidic, aristocratic, exotic, art-deco. No more to add.
28th November, 2017

Credible by Louis Cardin

Seriously cardamom (the standout element imo) has not been listed? And what about juniper berries and cedarwood? It seems to detect huge watery spices, subtle aqueous floral elements (salty/green lotus?), pink berries, fruity red berries, green/musky notes, lemon/bergamot, oakmoss, ylang-ylang, something like rhubarb, may be hints of tonkinian balsams and something like ginger (hints of booziness, possibly gin?). Credible is a lovely (seriously lovely) un-original scent. I appreciate its dandy refined spicy/citrusy/greenish/musky tropical fresh neo-classicism but all I see is a sort of Cartier Declaration-Frapin L'Humaniste's oudish "tropical/fruity" twin (a succeeding formula). This juice could be a modern gentleman's secret (and Arabian Oud Gentleman's secret is another juice jumping conceptually on mind for its refined - vaguely barber-shop - accord of fluidy cardamom, cedarwood, citrus and ylang-ylang). Credible? I don't know but what does it matter? Lemon (a sort of spicy/musky/balmy lemon) is dominant for long. Something pungent, floral, super cardamomish and finally balmy/soapy lemony (a la Allure Homme Edition Blanche) brushes delicately your nose. May be salty vetiver enhances the general exoticism. Dry down is subtle, yacht-club for, yuppie, airy-mediterranean, secretly (remotely) salty-ozonic and eminently refined (a delicate touch of soapy spiciness for a perfect exotic gentleman in white linen and Panama hat). Finally I catch something vaguely earthy as undertone under my "moonshiny" nose. Nothing brand new or innovative but Credible definitely tickles my senses. Thumbs up.
26th November, 2017 (last edited: 27th November, 2017)

Oud Zen by Areej le Doré

This arcane smoky/balsamic sandalwood's rendition (finally slightly civilized and rouded by soft balsams and stout leather) represents my first approach with the infamous Areej le Dore's "rocky" siberian alchemies. A first greasy Oud Zen's fist on my decrepit skin from the southern provinces and I'm immediately connected with the most obscure and extreme Abdul Samad Al Qurashi-oudhs straight outta dark caves, with the Calice Becker By Kilian Pure Oud's boot polish-like cypriol oil/cistus labdanum/smoky woods/saffron/tolu balsams/myrrh-founded animalic connections and definitely with my appalling bottle of pure castoreum-oil from Abdes Salam Attar Profumo. Castoreum (supported by acid civet) is indeed aggressive along this first stage and the animalic strength is in addition "extremized" by hints of (mezcal like) worm-rotted/mould, by secular dust, bonfire woodiness a la Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods or Fireside Intense, boisterous smoked leather a la Omer Ipekci Pekji Cuir6 and by (civet-nuanced) medicinal syrup. I substantially disagree with the excellent and super qualified ClaireV since I don't see any credible wearability in this straightforward combination of agarwood-pure oils, rancid resins, smoked woods and animalics (neither in the final barely tamed phase). I detect saffron which is a perfect dry companion for the authoritarian licoricey/salty/leathery/woody starkness but I catch as well a richer musky/green balsamic vibe (at same time vegetal and animalic a la ASAQ Royal Oud Gazelle or Deer Musk) from the ancient woods of the siberian mountain. A feral potion? Oh yes baby, at least (for three/quarter of its run) on my skin of moonshiny "suburban" pseudo-perfumista and till when a barely perceptible touch of softer balmy presence gets soothing the general "burnt sense of stale prehistoric antiquity". Exotic facets from Papuan Oud? Naaa. A faint floral presence? Probably, in a subtle final way perceptible as spark (minimal) of amberish/floral sophistication. Complexity is not proper to these types of musky/mouldy alchemic experiments to me and frankly (sorry again dear Claire) vintage Habanita (seriously powdery) or Onda Voile d'Extrait (eminently hesperidic) are completely different stuffs imo. The general structure turns out to be lacking. The final wake is lighter but still smokey, mouldy and leathery, an arcane feel which could by no means be introduced as "luxurious".The Oud Zen'wearer is definitely a saturnine fellow out of this standardized time and with a poetic sense of life. I appreciate in any case the hard "opera" of general balancing appointed by the artist creator. A status of mind (projected back to ancient centuries) more than a fully accomplished fragrance imo. 7,5/10.
P. S: the great surprise is that along the final stage, nearly 10 hours over the "application" on skin, the note of civet (a synthetic amberish/musky civet a la Zoologist Civet) unveils all its "suggestions" providing due to its "organic acidity" (and on a certain extent) the illusion of an old school animalic classic massive chypree a la Tabù Dana (or neo classic a la Zoologist Civet) under the vest of a still dominant (but reduced in intensity) musty smokiness and overall represents a great work of civilization appointed by perfumer imo.
22nd November, 2017

Credible Noir by Louis Cardin

A first blast of Credible Noir on skin and it seems to deal with a new Creed Aventus-clone with all its citric/smokey/fruity/coniferous "repertorio". I detect a touch of fruitiness, possibly hints of peneapple, huge bergamot and a tad of grapefruit. Probably the Louis Cardin's list of notes is just partial, aiming to veil the larger (in number of elements) perfume-composition. I detect fir-resin, pink berries and a sort of leafy-earthy-rooty presence (patchouli, herbal notes, jasmine-leaves??) as well. A rosey/piney/peppery-twist keeps "swarming" under the nose while (along the way) a less sharp and gradually smoother spark starts jumping up from the "backstage" in a way conjuring me intensely the Mazzolari Nero's final "outlook" (musk, rose, synth ambergris and vanilla, overall smoother than the current Aventus dry down). Hints of leather (a la Aventus/Royal Vintage) come up along the journey but in a pretty minimal way. The juice is surely fresh, "projectful, "modernly classic" and fancy but by no means seriously groundbreaking. A nice virile concoction (finally rosey/lemony, smokey and amberish) which is anyway far to be "credible", original and innovative. Another lost occasion, sorry.
20th November, 2017 (last edited: 21st November, 2017)

Orchidea by Louis Cardin

Orchidea is another Louis Cardin's attempt to follow the comfortable route of a successful market: combine a tad of the classic Tom Ford Black Orchid's "edible milky/semi-gourmandish/humid orchid" with a twist of the fruitier Black Orchid Voler de Fleur (with a soft whiff of initial hesperidic medicinal) and you will have this powerful spicy floral concoction. Cinnamon, gardenia, orchid and patchouli are olfactory stars. A tad of honeyed chocolate? Super feminine and creamy-spicy with a sensual temperament though not something particularly original. Dry down is softer (creamy-woody) and far more enjoyable than all the rest.
16th November, 2017 (last edited: 17th November, 2017)

Ombra di Tiglio by L'Erbolario

Super laundry-leafy take on a (soapy-victorian) damp rose/geranium-accord. Kind of synth but pleasant. A sort of "neutral-abstract" soapy-barber shoop silvan aroma. Lot kind of detergent cleansing toilette rose-water. Along the way a green tea-like sort of vibe (citrus, sharp floral "aqueous/transparent" notes, musk) a la Bvlgari Pour Homme jumps up providing a more classic cologney twist.
11th November, 2017