Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2447

Patchouly by L'Erbolario

Musky. L'Erbolario Patchouly is definitely a dignified patch-based combosition unfolding a sort of soapy-powdery patchouli-rendition with an evident presence of dusty iris, balmy vanilla and ylang-ylang. Dry floral notes and a tad of earthiness balance the yet presence white "talkiness". Quite recommended to all those people looking for a pleasant wearable patchouli with a spicy-floral-musky radiancy.
11th November, 2017

Gentleman (new) by Givenchy

Totally raped the original formula. Damn violet (at least in my perception), saltiness and synth harsh woodiness, an umpteenth sort of Trussardi Uomo new, Gentleman Only or bla bla bla. A pathetic collapse. A nightmare.
05th November, 2017 (last edited: 06th November, 2017)

Jimmy Choo Man Ice by Jimmy Choo

A translunar uninspired aromatic/vaguely minty collage of Dior Homme Cologne, Givenchy Gentleman Only, Versace Eros, Bvlgari Man Extreme and Guerlain L'Homme Ideal. I get synth "icy/cardamomish" musk, melonal, citron, vetiver, saltiness and benzoinic woodiness.
05th November, 2017
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Mood Indigo / Le Cinéma Olfactif : No. 1 - Mood Indigo by Folie à Plusieurs

An aroma straight outta chemical/pharmaceutical "sterilized" firm. A cedary/incensey neo-futuristic alchemy of new-age perfumery, a languid, diaphanous, liquefied dazzling olfactory spotlight. Mood Indigo smells like something in the middle between an Ulrich Lang's elusive metropolitan creation and an Andrea Maack's aldehydic twist, overall with a sort of woody pencil shavings spark a la Montana Graphite. I get in primis a super liquid "aqueous" frankincense with a sort of metallurgical/hyperbaric/pharmaceutical minimalistic (vaguely floral) vibe. Pepper and aqueous floral notes (lily, freesia, may be gardenia) enhance the dominant chemical twist while I detect a cedary (vaguely pencil shavings), endly drier final effect. I agree on the decidedly generic-synth effect and about the anaemic general "consistency". Extreme woody-incensey minimalism with a touch of "chemist". Nothing special, just for the lovers of this super sharp "cold" restrained genre.
02nd November, 2017

Extravagance D'Amarige by Givenchy

A great green/floral accord with an initial smoky/bitter faint undertone (pink pepper and bitter herbs), a tad of green muskiness and a vaguely hesperidic/baroque appeal. The floral bouquet is rich (violet, iris, orange blossoms and jasmine), almost aristocratic (a la Floris, in a sort of "British" royal way). Dry down is woody and musky with a tad of soapiness. Such a type of fragrances are simply a solid choice in any occasions. Extravagance d'Amarige (on my skin) is bright classic elegance and dynamic charme.
26th October, 2017

Altrove by Acqua dell'Elba

Just tested Essenza di Un'isola Acqua from this italian "house" and I have to say this ranks right up with the 2/3 best aquatics tested by me so far on skin. Perfect balance between "salty" and "creamy/soapy citric" with an amazing green balsamic vibe (and soft breezy floral nuances). Musky, softly musky and salty balmy musky. Really a dreamy and summery scent like a sort of aquatic Must the Cartier Pour Homme's little relative from the southern Mediterranean lands. This juice smells like a never ending bath up in a terrace's pool in front of the sea (the sea iodine under the nose). I smell "minty" myrtle and pine, perfectly complementing salt, citrus, seaweeds and floral/ozonic elements. The aroma of a "bright" june-sunset while waiting the upcoming summer there in the little island (the heart filled with joy and optimism). A juice which tenaciously I recommend to all the ozonics-freaks of this wonderful world.
22nd October, 2017

Tan-Tan by Coquillete Paris

A courageous idea of aromatic failure. Coquillette Paris Tan-Tan is (for long but thankfully not tout court ) another post-modern perfumed "anti-perfume". Dusty, dissonant, strident, leafy, chemical, electrically crazy. Opening (the less creepy part) is by soon intensely floral and prickly-herbal before to become plastically off-putting, sticky and synthetically dusty. The plastic/xerox toner-like smell a la CdG Odeur 71/Odeur 53 is evident, sour-green, acid and vaguely resinous in its floral background. I smell sticky white lymph, coniferous resins, petroleous rubber, dry florals and "a discount kind of leather" (milky/resinous). I detect several incensey/dusty un-liturgical aromatic facets (cold and impersonal) as well, combined with shopper bag-plastic, "liquid woods" (metallic and dry) and rubbed herbs, like smelling on skin a sort of watered down plastic/herbal/floral Durbano Black Tourmaline with figgy/leathery/piney disturbing nuances and with no trace of elegy.
P.S: dry down affords a significant improvement since the juice reduces its rubbery/leafy/dusty facets becoming a more properly leather-floral (almost fur-like) accord with classic woody-leathery-musky-floral elements.
19th October, 2017

Illicit by Jimmy Choo

Positive is my response. Along the first stage it seems to detect a sort of soapier and gentler Thierry Mugler Alien with a dominant (but definitely less "electronic") fresh (vaguely balsamic) sambac jasmine, some creamy orange blossoms and a huge dose of resinous/honeyed white woods. Rose (never earthy or leafy) provides a tad of "cosmetical - pink" delicate soapiness. Amber, musk and honey (a la Elie Saab Le Parfum) grow up gradually with all their dose of fairy elegy. Radiand and well appointed minimalist ambery-floral by Jimmy Choo. Dry down, after several hours is warmer and a tad less interesting.
17th October, 2017

Gentlemen Only Intense by Givenchy

I'd not define it a total scrubber but Only Intense is a somewhat mediocre synth scent combining the angular-metallic-calonic regular Only's vibe with an overdose of sweet spicy tonka, hints of leather and chemical resins. Pepper and incense are overly dosed and too sweet for my pleasure. Pass by.
15th October, 2017

Kenzo World by Kenzo

Minimalistic synth fruity "powdery-candied" amber with a standout breezy/tart peony and a fresh ethereal soapiness. It seems to detect a red-berrish and vaguely gummy/waxy presence probably elicited by ambroxan/jasmine (something finally talky/soapy). I detect a quite tart/leafy ostensibly aquatic vibe. Honestly this juice is a new drop in the ocean of modern perfumery. It finally smells like a soapy detergent.
12th October, 2017

Eau de Rochas by Rochas

A sophisticated monument of "electric" cologne with a dominant brightly citric/herbal/floral minty accord. Neroli, bergamot, basil and rose-jasmine-carnation provide a supremely classic-naïf cologney vibe while an anisic/licoricey/lemony presence discloses a touch of cool "latin" aromatic exoticism. The juice is freshly tart and sparkling, recalling several Guerlain Aqua Allegoria or 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser. Dry down is muskier with an amber/patchouli dominant presence (and quite refined on subtle florals). A classic timeless concept. Stunning bottle from a left back glorious past.
12th October, 2017

Dragonfly by Zoologist Perfumes

A further Zoologist's well crafted olfactory twist. Freehearted and almost oneiric feminine ambery-musky fragrance. A credible synth accord with a radiant brightness. Dragonfly ideally conjugates a typical Andrea Maack's aldehydic combination of papyrus, greens, musky/mineral amber, medicinal lime, white powder and dry flowers with an equally "futuristic" accord of aqueous pond-like florals (lotus, peony, lilac) and synth muskiness a la Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique or Chinatown Bond No. 9. A froozen in time translucent white-green atmosphere. There is all around a dominant medicinal/tart floral muskiness with a sort of mineral/vaguely ozonic spark. Heliotrope and amber slightly tame (along the journey) the dominant lemony/leafy floral tartness but the aroma is all about aldehydes, tart berrish fruits, humid/lymphatic/leafy florals, pharmaceutical lime, secret minerals and aroma chemical green muskiness. Dry down is softer, diaphanous, vaguely talky/poudree and super sophisticated. Ancestral kind of ostensibly vegetal fragrance. The Dragonfly's idea of woman is ethereal and elusive, a "presence" from a sort of muffled and candid/naive untouchable world of innocence, silk and white dreams. Welcome to the ancestral universe of innocence.
10th October, 2017

Floïd by Floïd

A gentlemanly legend.
07th October, 2017 (last edited: 08th October, 2017)
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Emporio Armani City Glam for Him by Giorgio Armani

I don't get all that "furiously reviewed olfactory disaster". City Glam for Him is just generic, a quite fresh-virile accord of herbs, bitter green orange and aqueous spices, ending down towards a finally generic synth connection of woods and "ostensible ambergris". I detect points in common with Emporio Armani He for him (a sort of initial fluidy, slightly oily-resinous and surely piquant trait coexisting with herbs, woods, musk and bitter orange). The herbal vibe is minty and aromatic throughout and it provides (connected to fresh cardamom) this kind of fluidy bitter initial twist. Dry down is warmer, a generic woods/ambroxan-accord a averagely sensual and virile, yet synthetic for sure (conceptually a la Badedas Noir but even Code or Emporio Armani He).
06th October, 2017

Lune Féline by Atelier Des Ors

A daring balmy/resinous (finally drier) amber appointed for us by Atelier Des Ors. A super resinous yummy accord of sweet spices and balsams with an aromatic (vaguely minty) aura, a sort of lingering peppery/incensey twist and a finally sharper/talkier woody "tail". Opening is quite mesmerizing and inebriating. Balsams are almost gourmandish and edible. The aromatic/green vibe is quite exotic and somewhat intellectual. A central accord of styrax, green patterns, frankincense and cardamom is heady and kind of "smokey/tropical". I definitely enjoy the heady chord of amber, cinnamon, frankincense and "aromatics". Balsams hold on seriously captivating and "juicy" till almost the end of the journey (anticipating and heralding the final cedary/dusty white powder). There is an undeniable amberish (slightly tobacco-veined) dominant presence which represents the "feline side of the moon". Fortunately the woody undertone is moderate in strength and well balanced (more than vaguely pencil shavings a la Montana Graphite). I don't get the musk at all. Balsams and dry woods are quite well combined, woods (kind of dry and cedary) balance the resinous vibe while providing a final sharper (kind of poudre, dusty and misty) aromatic atmosphere a la Tauer L'Air du desert Marocain. The fresh green vibe is durable along the development and finally slightly talky. I detect a certain resemblance with radiant resinous ambers a la Diptyque Eau Duelle and So Oud Nur (especially along the top and the central stage). Anyway this juice preserves for itself a tad of more assertive misty "shadow". Lune Feline is not a stand out crack in perfumery (and is not surely a quite articulated and structured masterwork) but we can say it exudes olfactory dignity being a quite intriguing juice for all the lovers of the "animalic amber theme".
06th October, 2017

Credible Oud by Louis Cardin

Louis Cardin Credible Oud bangs us immediately with a credibly destructive fist of synth bammy-creamy-musky oudh, sambac spicy jasmine and "cosmetical" (make up-vibe's conjuring) amberish sandalwood in a way you could swear (at least for a couple of seconds) to be dealing with a sort of boisterous Thierry Mugler oudish Alien on steroids (if possible). The amber-presence is since the beginning musky, angular, floral and vaguely powdery. Opening is seriously hardcore; such kind of gassy/floral intoxicating synth perfumes could severely test the common taste and the average tolerability indeed. Anyway, thankfully I detect in a while a sort of softer fruity-volatile-waxy-airy oudish presence a la Maria Lux Deeply or Heeley Agarwood (benzoinic-amberish spicy and candied rose/oudh, something still powerful but slightly more tolerable). Saffron (more than vaguely chemical and kind of detergent) gradually settles on the ground its spicy/rosey aura with a recall of that typical oudish modern rosey/saffrony recipe a la Dueto Parfums City Oud, Mancera the Oud, Xerjoff More than Words or boring stuffs like those. Dry down is a nowadays mainstream creamy-spicy-resinous accord smelling about soap, rose, tuberose, orange blossoms, vague berrish fruity molecules, talky saffron, powdery woods and something kind of "rosey" candied (a sort of oudish-gassy-powdery-cosmetical assumptive Chanel Gabrielle). Really too much of everything.
02nd October, 2017 (last edited: 03rd October, 2017)

Montana Black Edition by Montana

A darker/drier more assertive sort of Parfum d'Homme. Spicy, dry, rubbery, restrained, peppery, overall with a more than vague traditional powerhouse-twist. Black Edition smells like an orgiastic bacchanal between Nostalgia Santa Maria Novella, Jacomo de Jacomo, Bvlgari Black, vintage Trussardi Uomo and the classic Montana Parfum d'Homme. Superb piece of flanker-fragrance. Recommended.
28th September, 2017 (last edited: 02nd October, 2017)

Sacred by Louis Cardin

Louis Cardin Sacred is all about sweet resins, musk and dusty vanilla. I detect a sort of rosey spiciness (saffron, cinnamon?) as background. Hints of pepper? The aroma is pretty common, faintly (mediocrely) structured but surely inebriating and pleasant. This juice is kind of vaguely powdered, slightly almondy, woody (a dusty "white" kind of woodiness) and definitely cinnamonic. Juices a la Farmacia SS Annunziata Chia, Ortigia Ambra Nera or La Maison de la Vanille La Vanille Noir du Mexique jump vaguely on mind. Dry down is comforting and warm. This scent is excellent to be worn "intimately" for yourself (winter time at home on your coach) but not enough articulated to stand out in the middle of a Gala night at Royal Palace.
26th September, 2017

Cedrat Boise by Mancera

A quite fruity (kind of apparently berrish and surely lemony) sophisticated creamy sandalwood. There is a quite present lemony/grassy aura (the cedrat vibe) which is musky and floral (definitely classic in effect - some old school or classically appointed sandalwood/jasmine-implementations from Estee Lauder or Mark Buxton jump vaguely on mind). The "sandalwood/jasmine/black currant connection" is surely central. I detect the "Cedrat Boise-effect" but the note of sandalwood (a floral sophisticated musky sandalwood) is equally dominant. Feminine.
23rd September, 2017

Aspiration by Louis Cardin

Super spicy, I finally pick up powdery saffron in particular. A classic fleeting herbal/aromatic dry opening (vaguely a la Paco Rabanne Xs or D&G Pour Homme) finally reached by soapy/musky/rosey resinous balsams with a powdery/chypre (brightly "laundry-detergent/toilette cleaner" and slightly talky) undertone. Dry down conjures me vaguely scents a la Dueto City Oud (but in a less resinous and synthetic way). In conclusion I detect a sort of harsher "hay/papyrus/pencil shavings-like" final twist. Not properly an olfactory "Aspiration" for me.
21st September, 2017

Missoni Parfum pour Homme by Missoni

Missoni Parfum Pour Homme starts as a revival (in a contemporary key) of scents a la Byblos Uomo original or Versus Pour Homme by Gianni Versace (glorious modern juices sice the moment of their inception) in order to gradually assume an its own darkly musky sporty evolution based on lemony patchouli, aromatic herbs and synth musk. Ginger, green lemon and lavender provide the sporty/fresh darkly-aromatic twist a la Badedas Noir. Some drier/soapier soothing amberish woodiness a la L'Erbolario Corteccia (probably because of the oak-note) emeges gradually but this scent is all about musky/herbal patchouli and green lime. A pleasant dynamic masculine modern fragrance but nothing more.
P.S: the "deep drydown" is eminently woody (kind of pencil shavings in vibe) and along this stage the scent losts almost entirely the interest on me.
19th September, 2017

Emporio Armani Stronger With You by Giorgio Armani

Conjures me a lot (at least conceptually) scents as Azzaro Pour Homme Intense (new) and Boss The Scent Intense (woods, spices, tonka bean, fruity notes, hints of leather and vanilla). Valentino Uomo (less woody but more "chocolatey") is not so distant. A cedary kind of woody (pencil shavings) undertone is unfortunately the silent star. Nutty, woody, sweet, vaguely liquorous/caramellous and strong. Dry down is highly peppery on my skin. Not properly my cup of tea.
15th September, 2017

Loud Whisper by Louis Cardin

Unfortunately another more than pleasant but un-original LC's creation on my skin.
A sort of "musky/talky bath-foam-like" mix of several "market cracks cliche'-formulas". If you are in to Amouage Reflection Man, Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy Men, Joop Homme Wild, Baldessarini Ambre or in to a whichever musky-talky "all around ubiquitous" bath foam and you even appreciate Paco Rabanne One Million or Gaultier Le Male (also Le Beau Male), well here's Louis Cardin Loud Whisper, the umpteenth member of the infamous clan. Probably the latter is a slightly more balmy/soapy "heavenly" mix of the former juices, finally so light, soapy, delicate and almost oneiric. At the end of the run Loud Whisper turns out pretty soapy/talky, floral-chic and creamy/vanillic. It seems to detect also a whiff of candied heliotrope, spices, jasmine, patchouli, ambroxan, tonka, sandalwood and a few more. Probably I finally detect hints of soft suede (a spark of salty-leathery remote feel) as well and soft woofiness. A captivating juvenile mainstream formula lacking class, structure and elegance imo. Nothing new under the sun guys.
11th September, 2017

Lumination by Louis Cardin

Lumination is a pretty ordinary sporty fragrance from Louis Cardin and another take on aromatic/green/citric (fougere)
saltiness after the pleasant Scentanium (being the latter more oriented towards a sort of minty/metallic woodiness while Lumination is more typically musky/ozonic with a plain sporty twist of final synth "piquant" ambergris). Fresh, clean, ozonic, lemony, metallic, musky. The combination of metallic/ozonic patterns, fresh lavender, hesperidic patchouli and synth (aromachemical) ambery/lemony muskiness conjures me significantly (yet undenied and remarked all their evident peculiarities) scents a la Egoiste Platinum, L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake, Allure Homme Sport or D&G Light Blue. I get some sharp floral notes but this juice is all about ozonics and lemony/aromatic/ambery muskiness. Dry down on skin is darker and more dry/virile with a plain piquant spark. Lumination is definitely a "bright" aromatic/sporty "conventional" juice but is finally nothing but a ramake of previous renowned classics on the same theme (and finally smells somewhat boring and uninspired, my humble rating is barely 5/10).
07th September, 2017 (last edited: 08th September, 2017)

Gabrielle by Chanel

Gabrielle is a delicate brand new Chanel's bouquet with a translucent "neo-Victorian" graciousness. Tuberose is the main element (creamy, soft, orangy, musky) immediately supported by earthy jasmine, sophisticated (soapy-cosmetical) synth ylang-ylang and by a final fairy (but vain and kind of fuzzy) balminess. An initial angular/hesperidic leafiness evolves by soon in to a soft musky-orangy twist of floral and soapy notes. Orange blossoms, ylang-ylang, tuberose, musk, namely a sort of hardly enchanting perfumed "remake". A gracious "baume", slightly dull and with a tad more than mediocre structural magistery. Nothing new under the sun.
02nd September, 2017

Scentanium by Louis Cardin

Interesting first approach with the Louis Cardin's "perfumed" family. Scentanium is a super spicy/salty fresh citrus-based mature aroma rich of charme and freshly-oudish boldness. I suppose a not listed well calibrated touch of musky/spicy oudh could have been included in the blend. The extreme "toiletries like" spiciness conjures me significantly the musky-oudish Arabian Oud Gentleman Secret's exotic radiancy (which I deeply appreciate). The latter shares with (the saltier) Scentanium this sort of spicy-exotic classic twist of "arabic" aromatic virility (conjuring me more than vaguely the image of an utterly distinguished seducing exotic man and ideally capturing the scene of a tall "hypnotic" man in the hall of a luxurious hotel with its broadly projecting wake of "cardamomish/salty" muskiness). I detect markedly an arabic concept of aromatic-exotic masculinity all around but it seems to notice a sort of western yacht club-like sense of aristocratic summery "yuppies-ness" as well. It seems to pick up huge doses of ylang-ylang, citrus, pepper and cardamon on a base of well calibrated oudh, woods and ambery muskiness. Really dreamy, charismatic and "oriental". Supremely masculine with no compromises. I detect hints of ozonics as well, salty patterns (hints of vetiver too?) providing a modern sense of dreamy saltiness (the connection between ozonic saltiness, musky woodiness, peppery spiciness and aromatics conjures me more than vaguely the core of Bottega Verde Nero d'Ambra). A touch of mint enhances this widely sparkling aromatic sense of seductive/daring/exotic/hesperidic freshness all around (a la Egoiste Platinum but with more piquant saltiness) while it seems to detect a touch of florals and secret dry fruits in the mix. Hints of woody-metallic-floral temperament conjure me partially the Montblanc Emblem's woody-salty-aromatic restraint as well. An erotic perfume. An excellent choice for all the lovers of a classic fresh concept of daring virility really sensual, piquant, bold and dry. Surely recommended.
01st September, 2017 (last edited: 02nd September, 2017)

Cool Water Wave by Davidoff

The risk is to die of boredom. This juice is tart as a blade and effective as an Axe-deodorant. Cool Water Wave is a typical straightforward (super peppery) ozonic-marine with a vibrant, tart-metallic and fizzy-spicy temperament. Opening is fresh, powerfully dry and super spicy with a central "ozonic/marine" performance provided by grapefruit, citrus, sweet spices (mostly nutmeg under my profane nose), pepper, ozonics and mineral-"frozen" aroma chemicals. Supremely "ordinary" dynamic-refreshing-salty-synthetic (citronellol, helonial, Iso E Super) accord of fizzy-floral (violet, jasmine??) grapefruit, citrus, pepper, patchouli, marine notes, woodsy musky elements, cedarwood and minty laurel. Sporty, grapefruit-centered, synthetic, fizzy, conventional. Tons of easy-going marine "waters" jump on mind, waving from Paco Rabanne Invictus to Bond I Love New York for Fathers, passing through Nautica Voyage, Azzaro Chrome and Lanvin Pour Homme. We are far from the classic "ambergris-like" (and woody-herbal) original Cool Water's distinguished dry down. The base smells really overly synthetic (and really really pungent/peppery, pungent deodorant like, gasseous and fizzy-tart- vaguely cedary) under my gothic nose of the hills. Frankly boring as a summer camp at lakes with puritan parents.
21st August, 2017 (last edited: 22nd August, 2017)

Live Irrésistible by Givenchy

A nowadays traditional formula (synth resins, peppery saffron, powdery/ambery woods and rose) enriched by "lifely" fruits and plenty of musky (bath foam-like) soapiness. A decent synthetic radiant fruity-floral accord, fizzy and spicy (super spicy), with plenty of tangerine, grapefruit, pineapple, may be apple, patchouli, rose/jasmine (may be hints of osmanthus), musk galaxolide and a sheer "cosmetic" creamy-soapy final vibe. This is a juvenile "carefree" easy-going fragrance for "relentless" young "multicolored" crowds of bacchanalian teenagers. Pink pepper, red berries? I detect a sort of saffrony/rosey/balmy/woody final undertone. Life Irresistible is the type of sparkling fragrace you can surely detect waving powerfully in the air. Patchouli is dominant in the creamier dry down (vaguely a la Dior Addict). Good longevity and bold sillage.
02nd August, 2017 (last edited: 03rd August, 2017)

La Nuit by Paco Rabanne

Certain types of things are like a God's gift, veritable antidotes to collapse of costumes, against an irreversible prolapse of taste and the paralysing boredom, as potions to keep my spirit up. Paco Rabanne La Nuit represents an iconic milestone for a supreme idea of "appalling" animalic/aldehydic/leathery chypreism, the forbidding thin red line ideally conjoining Van Cleef&Arpels First to Gianni Versace, Acampora Sballo to Estee Lauder Knowing, passing through Paloma Picasso, Fleurs de Rocaille, Van Cleef, Paris, Magot, Diva and Roccobarocco. Not a lot more to add over the massive floral/aldehydic/animalic structure. I smell poetry, picking up glistens of wax, peaches, musk, earth, pepper and dry leaves. There is a common "ultra-aristocratic" foundation (provided by aldehydes, civet, hesperides, oakmoss/patchouly, honey, fruity-spicy rose/jasmine and hints of leather) connecting all the former "noble old matron-like" potions, a similar classically chypre archetype of musky/spicy alchemy and lot of mutual memories about disappeared old aunts, massive mink coats, ermine furs, feathered hair, heavy facial makeups and high ceiling-rooms (embellished by massive golden frames pictures, oriental stuffs, bronze-statues and Persian tapestries). La Nuit eau de parfum runs gradually that olfactory metamorphosis waving from a stuffy/aldehydic decadent bewildering amorphous abstraction to a softer hyper sophisticated more "discernible/structured" fruity/floral symphony. Soft sparks of leather fill the air as moths, gleams of viney fruitiness dance as violin-notes in the night. Finally the rosey/musky/spicy/viney/leathery La Nuit's central vibe smells really close to the one we've enjoyed in Azzaro Acteur (which adds more virile restaint and aromatic piquancy to the beautiful olfactory game). Beyond all this manneristic monumental beauty (apparently ephemeral but actually substantial in its cultural "substratum", the bold related characters in fur coats or sideburns and flares, the overseas "exotic" immigrations and the enthusiastic future planning) all that's left is the Black Opium Floral Shock's shock and the horrific plastically anosmic theater of "talent and reality shows" with their indecent allusive exposure and the absurd background of metallic saltiness, stretched t-shirts, sculpted locks of hair and the adumbrative stretchy metrosexual pants. God forgive the inelegant fools.
01st August, 2017 (last edited: 02nd August, 2017)

Azurée by Estée Lauder

Another masterwork from Estée Lauder, one of my favorite glorious perfume-houses. Azuree is a bold floral/aldehydic/musky leather-patchouli prominent (green) accord with an herbal-bitter dry foundation and a sort of waxy (yes, like aromatic burning candles, a la Clinique Aromatics Elixir) soul. The Aramis classic's feminine counterpart (on the side of a more "unisex" Cabochard), finally brighter (muskier) and equally sophisticated (with a retro aldehydic/hesperidic mossy classically chypre architecture). I agree on that, if compared with White Linen, Pleasure or Alliage, Azuree is the most assertively complex and hard to wear of all. The initial aldehydic assault is heartbreaking and more than vagualy "stuffy", with a quickly "rising up" angular/crisp bergamot-patchouli's connection, a "burning candles waxy vibe", a green/herbal angular presence of forest resins/dry woods/musks and a prominent victorian pungent jasmine. Amazing opening under my "neo-victorian" nose with the vivid myth of Windsor Castle's aristocratic ceremonies. Patchouli is by soon bold and kind of "Royal" a la Floris while jasmine is sort of "acid" and spicy (likewise in Aromatics Elixir I vividly notice an old-school deliberately "retro/grandma" kind of mystic/incensey/waxy background). Overall the floral presence follows this "massively retro" glorious decadent style and the aldehydes/bergamot/ylang-ylang's co-work enhances this dominant "fat" and exotic/spicy effect, ideally in the middle between Aramis Classic, Mitsouko, Aromatics Elixir and JHL. A musky ylang-ylang is a key element with its charge of subtle sophisticated "cultured" (Grand Madame's) bold exoticism. I have to say that anyway Azuree exudes a basically fresh and bright leather-vibe (despite its spicy/earthy/floral/aldehydic complexity). The leathery presence (finally refined and surprisingly smooth) jumps up gradually bright and light (and going on along the journey more and more markedly as for Aramis classic, just more florally, graciously and subtle), even in here supported by oakmoss, structural patchouli, musk, a tad of frankincense's austerity and a finally warmer/spicier ambergris-presence. The overall effect is still musky/green, classically "chyprey", dusty and dry (un-sweet, woody). Another glorious pillar of old-style classicism in the same league as Cabochard, Aramis and further giants from a disappeared "manneristic" era. Projection is more than good on my skin, longevity is in the average.
13th July, 2017