Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2404

Marte 61 by Battistoni

This review is for the Classic Marte Battistoni Roma, now may be discontinued, on the Directory and hard to find.
The Classic Marte is a distinguished, fresh fougere and a valuable solution for formal events and business meetings. Luxurious and slightly baroque though in a virile/aromatic way. The top notes are citrusy and refined with an hint of basil, geranium and artemisia. The first blast is indeed aromatic, astringent and almost mentholated. The heart is floral in a really modulated way (jasmine and carnation) while the base is mastered by rosewood, astringent cedar, vetiver and an hint of tobacco. The rosewood is in opinion the characteristic element of the aroma, a musky/rosey wood flanked by aromatic elements, refined hesperides, hints of pepper, dry tobacco and probably ambergris. The dry down is really gorgeous with its sour, a bit smoky, nearly incensey but still aromatic/musky mark. This is a dry floral scent with a lot of woody texture and a green bitter aromatic soul. The longevity and sillage are great.
02nd February, 2011 (last edited: 08th January, 2014)

Armani Eau pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

The original version was a real gem, a masterwork of balance and refined masculine hesperidic discretion. The new formulations are pale on my skin. Sort of musky-spicy lemonade, if possible. There is some hidden benzoin may be joined to a touch of amber in order to support the smooth/boise final evolution, a natural shelter for the luxurious initial hesperidic valzer. The general luxurious (articulated) soft and fluidy muskiness, as already said, is a bit powdery, mild but never cloying. This is a subtle and fresh (slightly green) masculine chypre, traditional and classy (super conservative and assertive). The top fresh and invigorating notes are all citrus (mostly lime and neroli) and green elements (overall is extremely restrained and balanced), immediatelly washed by a splash of spicy lavender in few minutes, settled the transition towards the heart. Cloves (may be cinnamon) provide a spicy subtle sweet touch since the middle notes and going on to the musky final turn out. The base notes express the woody texture of sandalwood, hints of balsams and the boise oakmos's muskiness enveloping the green/spicy "lemonade". This is a timeless concoction invigorating and clean expecially if worn along the spring/summer southern working days.
01st February, 2011 (last edited: 09th July, 2017)

Xeryus by Givenchy

Stiff (though slightly exotic), moody, classic aromatic fougere. Citrus-lavender, oakmoss, sage, sandalwood, geranium, amber and other notes turn this fragrance out very similar to the sadly disappeared Coveri Pour Homme, which i prefer to this one because of the Givenchy's one final too stressed warmth while the Pour Homme kept on till dry down that touch of green-earthy freshness that makes more wearable a fougere. The mossy warmth as already written, is enhanced by a link between artemisia, woods and moss which pushes up the heat in the dry down pumping off in that phase the coolness provided before by cypress, aromatic notes, fruit and citric lavender. The beginning is all watery citrus, basil, grapefruit and sage and is wonderful because, while forseeing the following depth, exudes woodsy aromatic, herbal, sufficienty cool and mentholated notes before the dark-grey warmth starts to rise up from the background. As well as the woody-spicy-mossy density by cypress and cypriol starts soaring, the aroma keeps becoming massive and enveloping the initial citrus fluidity. These woods are resinous in my opinion and this is the reason of that tarry, nearly gummy trait dominating the final outcome. Some flowers as dry geranium and jasmine ( i detect violets and may be rose) exude moody and obscure botanical refinement in the middle of the development before the fragrance settles in to a warm sandalwood, incense, amber, rubber  base smoothed and encompassed by musks from the forest. There is an hint of vetiver in the base but not so marked. I've heard the new version is a better stuff
because is airier, fresher and subdued in musky density. May be but i would not swear about. The longevity is strong while sillage is medium bodied.
01st February, 2011 (last edited: 30th October, 2014)
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L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

Another top Classic from Guerlain, which stands in the same clan with scents a la Dior Homme, Valentino Uomo, Chanel Egoiste, D&G The One, Boucheron Jaipur Homme and furthermore. Super chic fragrance. L'Instant is a citrusy, oriental, spicy, slightly balmy languid creation which is a perfect balance between spicy woods, fluidy fresh lavender, hesperides, soft suede, nutty/chocolatey delicious notes and a vanillic-ambery final aristocratic accomodation. There is a "citrus-nuts-anice-lavender-cocoa-suede founded" naïf vaguely art nouveau accord which, expanding its performance from the top to the bottom, appears like the veritable backbone of this whole olfactory experience, a "cultured core" playing a central role introducing itself like the characteristic trait of the perfume itself. The anise-citrus-lavender combo is the first trait whereof the "kinda licoricey" bitterness is quickly sweetened by a spicy jasmine. The "licorice-jasmine founded" link is an accord I use to appreciate a lot, mostly on the feminine concoctions. The woody and watery/green (all at once fresh and warm) heart is the most important and characterizing part of the structure. The licoricey sort of undertone is strengthened by a dry woodsy luxuriant cedar, some woods provide texture and stableness balancing the water-lavender fluidy temperament exalted by the accord of tea-lavender which is the natural shelter for a greedy note of cocoa beans, nutty and chocolatey. This part of the scent performs and structures strongly that nutty-oily anisic creamy semi-gourmand accord which characterizes the fragrance in its deep soul. The musky base introduces a new element of balance "towards" the " liquidity " and impresses a green/musky/woodsy feel, adding finally a subtle nutty/floral trait aroused by hibiscus seads. A touch of vanilla roots down a tad of refined balminess but always in perfect harmony with the general balance and without crossing the boundaries. Expertly blended fragrance which stands out through that highly refined and modern peculiar nutty/washed/green/anisic/ambery (luxurious) trait which is at same time classically intellectual and modernely glamour-chic.
31st January, 2011 (last edited: 08th February, 2018)

Elements by Hugo Boss

Hard to find nowadays this is a very interesting fougere, earthy, fruity, woody and spicy at once. The citruses-plum-terragon-thyme link represents the main feature of the fragrance cause exudes that dirty, fruity, balsamic trait with a bitter, mentholated undertone which flavours the woodsy base " created" by sandalwood, oakmoss and cedar. The mossy-ambery dry down, as connected with spices and a deeply floral heart, conjures me partially scents as Enrico Coveri Pour Homme, Police Dark and Ungaro III (but Elements is more spicy-dusty, fruity and resinous). The dirtiness is produced by a sweet-bitter contrast of elements. The elements are those of mother nature and their aroma is musky, woodsy and conjures me slightly aromatic mild tobacco (i think plum joined with cedar, tangerine and terragon produces this perfume). Nice scent for free days outside in the farm.
31st January, 2011 (last edited: 07th December, 2014)

Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier

In the chaotic and intoxicating initial dust of this woody oriental i smell splinters of vetiver, almond-orange liquor (coming out from an initial bitter-sweet accord of amaretto and neroli) rose, a touch of incense, some spices and amber. These are the key elements of the Dragon which is a complex vetiver for real, a resinous but pungent nutty whisky with rosey and creamy undertones. The beginning is floral liquor very aromatic and already embraced by earthy/rooty tentacles lifting from the vetiver, cedar, olibanum and patchouli rising from the background, the roaring Dragon's kiss. Vetiver is detectable at the end of the game (at least in my opinion) and is the soul of a fragrance which systematically waves its superb rose from the creamy liqueur to the earthy vetiver-pathouli dust. This scent is a play of balances and ambivalences and the confusion (the puzzling mess of booziness and dissonances) in the perception not always (not properly) is a drawback. In the middle of this story the musk hardly manages to counteract the woodsy harshness from a stout cedar while the sophisticated feminine iris and an earthy rose run side by side in order to settle down the unisex trait of the scent. The base of Dragon reflects the game of the opposites and blends the earthy dust from the vetiver-patchouli association with the smoothness aroused by some resins in order to set a shelter for the floral/spicy liqueur. The final outcome is warm and smoother although the animal is not tamed at all. I must say that this scent, pleasant for winter evenings, works also decently in daily time and in the hot summer nights out, it's strange but this was my last impression. Unfortunately, as usual for many Cartier's, longevity and sillage are decidedly weak on me and over this sphere is based the reason of my neutral rating for a fragrance whereof the dry down, evanescent and speedy as a meteor, remains a real gem for all the perfumes lovers.
31st January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)

24, Faubourg Eau de Parfum by Hermès

Sophisticated floral waves, orange blossoms, mellow fruits, a touch of camphor, honey, decadence, "hints of potpourri" and woods seem to be magistrally blended in order to issue this mysterious and spectral feminine creation. 24 Faubourg is a real Hermes, sumptuous, classic, silent, deep, elusive and enigmatic. Intense floral notes seem to be present since the top on the side of massive hesperides (bergamot in primis), arcane spices and dried fruits (a prominent note of peach, orange, may be hints of apricot). The heart is orchestrated by spicy orange, roots, herbal elements and florals while the dry down is velvety oriental notes, woods, moss, modulated resins and patchouli. Orange blossoms and a sort of honeyed fluid (probably honey itself), oakmoss (may be labdanum) are detectable characteristics of the fragrance while a realistic patchouli stands out in order to soar higher the earthy enigmatic feel and to counteract the excess of oriental smoothness. This is a real Parisian creation, a distinct half aged woman observing show cases on Boulevard des Italiens or sat on a bronzy bench intent to read a romance under a tree shade in the middle a public garden. An extremely artistic creation rich of class and mature mossy-chypre deep sophistication.
30th January, 2011 (last edited: 14th December, 2015)

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen

When a fragrance, despite being sin in its deep substance, despite festering otherworldly secretions or aphrodisiacal seminal liquid of dragon (at least for the main part of its development) notwithstanding achieves the hardest conceivable effort to enter its olfactory substance inside the human contemporary fashionable parameters, well talking about balances in spite of that accomplished miracle is like breaking the spell, like daring to replace its perdurable, supernatural trait with a material boredom. That critical exercise becomes therefore eventually a vulgar manifestation of olfactory chauvinism in case. Kingdom in the course of its evolution discloses itself as "ultra-dimentional" potion able to teleport me in a medieval steaming contexture, in a world of Holy Inquisition, decadent castles and fortifications by drawbridges endowed. A vague world in grey comes to mind, a world of secret loves consummated in the hidden rooms, a world of damsels and carriages towed by robust horses. Such types of fragrances hardly aim to reach the perfection of balances and long indeed to uphold the dirty, the obscene, to convey around a message of debatable luxuriousness. Kingdom manages certainly to become a contemporary fragrance but is a scent that lives a struggling conflict between obscurantism and modernism and is one of the most feminine ever cause (it is absolutely true) conjures, even if just in its obscure background, the smell of women anatomy, a whiff of acid/mild feminine sweat, the aroma of consummated sex and secretions. While the off-putting whiffs in Allure slide in to disgust and the overly acid, in here on the contrary evolve towards a pheromonical smell of sin. The bitter-sweet smell of passions, the controversial waves open at once the doors to a surprisingly modern glamour trait in a scent ideated for the women of the Kingdom’s court. The vulgar and animalist accord of citrus-neroli-ginger-cumin-pepper (the soul and core of the fragrance i mean) is the gothic, dissonant and decadent characteristic of the juice, is the otherworldly face performed by witches and fairs, is the sabre of scandal. The cumin is prominent, overwhelming, spicy, sultry and dirty, it is circled by the other soldiers in the mission of rising up human secretions, animal molecules and disappeared wild odors in the night of the ages. Rose and jasmine must strain themselves in order to counterpoise the animal, pungent (sweaty) trait with their sensual and "contemporary" vibe. Is like to tame a crazy bull, a furious blooding beast but the flowers couldn't manage to get it in loneliness, they needed a support for sure. The creamy, woody, musky base achieves the strenuous attempt to link and root down the potion to the new world ground, to the contemporary age, in order to step from the imagination up to the real, to give texture and consistence to the sultriness, to support the flowers in the attempt to fence the animal in. The stout sandalwood, supporting flowers and balsams, manages in its task, completes the mission, tames the animal giving stableness to the madness. The outcome is a contemporary pheromonal, dark rose-woody scent which manages to wave from the gothic to glamour, from the animalist trait to modern chic at once realizing all with wonderful sillage and a great longevity. Kingdom, accomplished the transition, will anyway be in our olfactory memory for its hidden core of left back (in the medieval past) atmosphere and not (for sure) because of its final modern (and more ordinary) outlook appearance.
29th January, 2011 (last edited: 28th September, 2014)

Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's

The londiners noblemen used to smell like this one "emerging" out from the Piccadilly Hammam baths.
This is the Victorian Age's scent, a fragrance conjuring the colonialism decades, the colleges and the diffusion of British culture and civilization in the eastern exotic far lands and all over the world.
Hammam Bouquet, alongside the diverse Blenheim Bouquet, Douro Eau de Portugal and English Fern, is the milestone of the Penhaligon's Royal brand. This Victorian complex fragrance manages to be at once powdery and clean, manly and feminine, citrusy and soapy, kind of bath soap but clearly distintive,  traditional but surprisingly current. It's a slightly spicy semi-oriental rose scent. The rose is historical, imperial, indolent and gentle. The opening is citrus mastered and slightly green due to lavender but is not aggressive and harsh since the following musk, a bunch of flowers and woods start to enter in their role in a while. I perceive immediately a dry musk and woods which disclose gradually the floral bouquet. The flowers are "british" (dry and soapy in style), a bit oldfashioned and potpourri with the rose playing the main role and a jasmine engaged to provide a more intense, properly floral and sweet touch. The cedarwood from the heart starts providing texture and consistence to the scent preventing the musky-ambery base to "exaggerate" the soapy trait of the aroma. The sandalwood in the base stresses the stable structure of the scent breaking a bit down (subduing in their soapiness) resins and balsams. The outcome is a green, woody, edible rose scent with some soapy temperament. The bath foam trait is anyway determined by the interaction between musky-amber, cedar, some obscure spices and may be an hint of rounded tobacco. You feel yourself confortable, clean and soapy wearing this fragrance in a dry morning while clothing a tweed. This subtle aroma whispers out mellifluous cleanliness, nostalgia and tradition.
28th January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)

Douro Eau de Portugal / Lords by Penhaligon's

Great. This one lords over many others scents from the same brand in my taste cause is marvellously classy and stiff but in a more modern and wearable way. Douro Eau de Portugal starts with a blast of citrus, lavender and bracing basil but the top is not as severe as in Blenheim Bouquet despite even it is standing in the boundaries of the dry and conservative territories. The heart is discreetly floral with its demure muguet and the neroli flower. The latter, joining its juicy floral radiancy with the mandarine swirling in the top, provides the scent with a more pleasant radiant fruity touch and a less properly tart citrusy vibe while in BB the floral vacancy and the lack of an orange-mandarine tandem smelled too much sour and conservative. The base is heaven with its mossy, creamy sandalwood, so soapy due to the support from labdanum. Overall the fragrance, while slightly sweet and daring, effortlesly still upholds its composure. Constantly aromatic. Pure modern though traditional distinction.
28th January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)

7 de Loewe by Loewe

Notably incensey, dusty and smoky at the beginning. It reminds me a bit the classic Cacharel Pour Homme, it's indeed a more pungent, peppery and spicy kind of fragrance in comparison with the Cacharel's one. Both are spicy but the latter projects a more woody, watery and clean texture while 7 Loewe is earthier, more modern (less hesperides and moss) and dusty due to the lack of lavender. This is a refined, spicy, fresh masculine scent based on few notes among which i detect clearly neroli, lemon, a starring cedar, green apple and incense. A touch of rose provides discreet delicacy while green and earthy notes as musk and vetiver afford a notably woodsy base. It's a dry fragrance through the accord of cedar and green apple while the smoky-peppery-incensey trait arouses the particular temperament of the dusty  waves. Interesting scent for distinction, austere cool subtleness and freshness (at office in the morning).
27th January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)

Cacharel Pour L'Homme by Cacharel

The classic Cacharel Pour Homme conjures me a lot the modern 7 de Loewe which is a slightly spicier ( or may be is better to say earthier) and dusty type of similar stuff. The Cacharel one projects a more woody, mossy and a cleaner texture in comparison with 7 Loewe even if is spicy and a bit dirty along the way . This is a refined spicy, mossy masculine scent based on few notes among which i detect clearly citrus lavender, a bit of neroli, cedar, woods, a dominant nutmeg and vetiver. The beginning in very sour (lemony/orangy), dry and traditional but while the citrusy notes retain their influence throughout the scent, it is the spicy heart that infuses its main influence to the whole fragrance due to a notable amount of nutmeg that overwhelms the flowers as geranium and carnation. The base is woody and musky with an earthy vetiver insertion. The nutmeg is yet detectable in the final outcome which is all spices, woods, musk and citrus. While the longevity is decent the sillage is under tone.
27th January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)

Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon's

Severe, conservative and boldly elusive the Blenheim Bouquet's wearer is an historical character, an algid strategist. It's said this one was the Sir Winston Churchill's signature fragrance, he used to perform the splashing method in order to project the coniferous wake for metres and metres around. The top notes are aromatic freshness at its finest, with their accord composed of barely harvested lime-lemon and fresh lavender, very sour and dry but sparkling throughout the trip. I'd hardly assert could be present some floral note in the middle, while the dry down is woody-musky with its musk ready to intermediate in the juxtaposition between the lemony starting and the smokey coniferous base. A wonderful pine note, the aromatic thyme and a rooty vetiver provide a coniferous, woodsy more concrete dimention after the elusive citrusy and watery beginning. A note of black pepper affords a little prickliness and dustiness to an otherwise overly angular creation and the freshness, due to other obscure mentholated spices, holds on its lonely mission till the end. This is a real woodsy, conservative fragrance lacking about anything floral (but i've a little doubt about), tasty/edible or properly balmy/smooth. There is a little smoke in the blend which envelopes the aromatic woods. This fragrance is surely great even if is too much dry, "british" and austere for my taste and too aristocratelly sour for the current requirements of the "modern life".
27th January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)
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No. 88 by Czech & Speake

In the clan of the darkest/classiest (Geo F. Trumper Eucris, V&A Pour Homme etc) this austere and gigantic woody-floral creation boldly features its severe, purified and perfectly balanced victorian seriousness. N. 88, despite its (anyway sharp) floral presence, is cold and impersonal as a corpse. Excellent fragrance of Lords, gothic and sinister. One of my favorite rose/geranium combo on the side of Domenico Caraceni 1913. Frangipani is a further sharp floral protagonist. Assertive. This is the perfect scent for a funeral since by inhaling its mounful aroma you could figure in mind a funereal, black clothed, algid and composed tall man intent to stare the white dead laid down inside the open coffin, while standing in the mortuary chapel in the middle of the appalling night, with just his face slightly enlightened by the candles' faint glare. In the meanwhile (in the core of the night) his gray shade stands high on the faintly enlightened walls of the room and you wonder if the corpse has much more soul (and life) than the tall, sinister fellow still standing in the room. It's a scent based over an (almost crispy-aqueous) geranium and rose/frangipani accord, the previous one much more stressed and notable. The N. 88's aroma starts with a strong citrusy astringent barber-shop note (may be too much pronounced and angular for the current modern taste) before morphing, through an heavily floral heart, in to an earthy/woody base with sharp (unrooty, purified) vetiver, hints of sharp patchouli and sandalwood. The woods end to warm finally up the concoction balancing the citrusy-watery-leafy blast of the initial development and turning the final aroma to smell about dry flowers and severe bergamot over a sharp woody (barely incensey) base. Unfortunately sillage and longevity are not so good on my sucking skin. About the comparison with Black Aoud I've already written something about while reviewing the Montale's one (less sharp and finally kind of musky-resinous). Both are bold, arrogant and relentless but while N. 88  is cleaner, sharply woody, more evocative, ghotic and funereal, Black Aoud is a lot sexier, more fancy-modern, "versatile" (it seems a paradox), dirty, wild/musky and "ultradimensional". Black Aoud is perfect for a party, N.88 is ideal for an autopsy.
26th January, 2011 (last edited: 30th July, 2017)

Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

Dark as an obscure alley, deep as a thick forest, earthy as the damp country, desolating as a frosty night out for the streets of Moskow suburbia. This dirty-musky, very masculine, modern (glamour/chic in a weird synthetic way) chypre evokes pain and nocturnal solitude to me, conjures up frost and bare quarters in the windy cold night. The danger is in the air, I see somewhere white eyes without a face. This is a fragrance I love cause it's melancholic as many intense moments of our life. My imagination goes to lost loves regreted in loneliness in the course of the appalling night, to struggling farewells for the streets of the eastern lands. The first consideration, few minutes over the first spray, was "a sort of dark Farhenheit!" and the similarities are many due to a violet leaf-patchouli-musk-amber link which is in common between the two concoctions. NR is anyway an heavier, denser and darker scent first of all through the minimalism of its composition and the measure of the dosage (of the notes). It's slightly tarry in its dirtiness but is mostly earthy (and wet concrete type) and is lacking that real liquid petroleum feel proper of the Dior's one. The beginning is citrusy, earthy, strong on violet, synthetically camphoraceous and humid-fruity. This opening is really aggressive and abrasive. I detect an hint of black pepper whirling in the air on this phase. In the second immediate part of the evolution I smell rising a sort of coniferous spicy floral aroma in which detect violet leaf and may be a touch of rose-geranium (probably i'm wrong with this "rosey feel" but this is each time my impression) . While the fruity-citrusy-floral accord holds on and roots down stably its presence exuding a sort of cucumber-mellon aroma, we slide towards a musky, ambery, patchouli dominated dry down, very obscure and bold which embraces and exalts the violet leaf (stronger than in Eau d'Hermes and Grey Flannel) and the fruit till the end of the
trip. In this fase the scent becomes soapy and the strength of musk comes out very notably. The longevity and the sillage are good.
26th January, 2011 (last edited: 12th March, 2015)

DKNY Be Delicious by Donna Karan

Cucumber, synthetic apple, flowers and boredom.
26th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Poême by Lancôme

Mimosa and vanilla are clearly perceivable at first sniff. Poeme is romantic, gentle and almost edible with its milky, silky mellifluence. The ethereal touch is impressed by rose, element (the latter) notable few hours later the first spray. Amber, musk and may be eliothrope give support to the velvety vanilla. I detect a sort of bitter undertone of neroli at the beginning may be provided by a tonka- orange blossom link. The poppy exudes a touch of mystical dust while the final development smells like creamy zabaione blended with vanilla and marmelade of flowers. Unique and poetic.
26th January, 2011 (last edited: 24th December, 2013)

Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

This fragrance is ideal for the busy, dynamic, southern man which is used to roam around streets and venues of the sunny seaside towns with his conversible car, white linen clothed in his daily freshness. Although heavily citric (orange, lemon, bergamot, mandarine), green (sage, mint, lavender, terragon etc.) and floral I must say anyway that this fragrance is not particularly fresh due to its slightly warm and soft-resinous dry down made by woods, musk, well rounded tobacco, tonka and in my opinion by a touch of synthetic ambergris. This dry down's factor could pretend to understate the mediterranean, traditional olfactory trait but it works in this way just apparently. The link of aromatic herbal patterns-neroli-cumarin, lavender and tonka bean plays infact, gradually from the top to the base, an important role in order to provide this scent with a traditional (classic) fresh orange-tobacco trait and the gradually performing blast of citrus, sharp floral patterns and woodsy elements pushes up a strong jet of mediterranean refreshing aromatic air. Several dry spices located in the heart of the juice impress to aroma a touch of boldness, prickliness, virility and exoticism. The sillage is good in my opinion. A nice scent a lot appreciated aroud.
25th January, 2011 (last edited: 24th October, 2015)

Basala / Basara by Shiseido

The way as Basala secretly breaks down, after the citrusy-earthy initial fist and the spicy-dusty bracing chaos, is holy and surely one of most intriguing of the perfumery's universe with its mystic quietude and the holy bliss. It's like the soul of the fragrance would initially wish to strain the smeller and discourage him from going on towards the fields of the sacredness and silence since not ready to catch the secret of the juice's development or not farsighted to forsee it. Basala is a bliss for my soul and is one of the scents I use to wear just for myself. Supremely masculine, a real spicy bomb. A tornado of citrusy-green lavender with rosemary, acrid cedar, bitter artemisia, spices, fir resins, herbs and roots welcomes the visitor in order to intimidate him with the hope he may escape far away. The note of pepper (pink pepper??) is heady and turbulent. This peppery-leathery Shiseido's disappeared chypre is like an old man of the forest who hates to be disturbed and in this fase is still dusty, green and balsamic. A certain time later the evolution starts and, while the citrus lavander holds on its influence throughout the aroma, the herbaceous, spicy dust fades and the scent slides, through a floral-rooty alley, in to a complex ambery-coconutty, woody, piquant, leathery-resinous, musky base. Several hours later the basenotes become softer and milder due some addition of balsams, creamy sandalwood and the insertion of faint milky coconut (still pungent and sticky because of the support coming from caraway, pepper, terragon and resins). This is an eccellent concoction (one of the best ever) with a strong sillage on my skin.
24th January, 2011 (last edited: 09th June, 2017)

Opium pour Homme Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

Mystic ecstasy, mystery, drama, luxury and esoteria in a bottle. The parfum of the night enlightened by billions of stars. An intoxicating piece of worldwide olfactory Sturm Und Drang. This is a denser, darker, more stressed on vanilla and spices (but less peppery/citric/aromatic) Opium Pour Homme's version. Despite the basic differences look at my complete review submitted in the Opium EDT's space. Projectful, exotic, charismatic. Decadent and futuristic at same time. Recommended.
24th January, 2011 (last edited: 28th January, 2016)

Imprinting by Il Profumo

An old school formula revisitation by Il Profvmo, a fresh, elegant, aromatic, citrusy masculine fragrance, sort of Eau Sauvage's restyling, more complex and with a more modern and slightly oriental feel due to the implementation of a white tea note. It's clearly perceivable the usage of lemon-bitter orange and verbena where in Eau Sauvage you could smell a link of lemon and rosemary. The middle part of the development is floral as in the Dior's one and in the final part here we find musk and vetiver while in the other one we have vetiver, oakmoss and musk. The green-earthy base here is turned out soapier and slightly mild by the note of ylang-ylang while in the other one they soften the scent by hints of amber. Anyway both are refreshing, daily, conservative and onedimentional (i mean stiff and un-versatile) fragrances good for a splashing refreshment at morning before to face the hard battle of the "aristocratic" life.
24th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Sergio Tacchini by Sergio Tacchini

A decent sharp, green, sportive fragrance full of dignity which combines, in a full of experience way, citrusy, green, woodsy and soapy elements. The diverse notes are combined in a perfect balance. The beginning is hard to face with a blast of citrus, herbs and lime, than the smell slides towards a woody and soft green base due to sandalwood, musks, styrax and a touch of amber. Refreshing and clean this is silently good for work and for the free time around in the nature. The longevity is surprising. Horrible bottle.
23rd January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)

Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein

This historical spicy-oriental which i appreciate deeply nowadays when is by now far from its initial marketing persecution, is a giant that gained its fame by playing the game of contrasts. Its intriguing, schizophrenic smell waves up and down, left and right from citrus to vanilla, from lavender to amber, from conifers to benzoin. I agree with Foetidus when writes about dualism and coexistence of opposites. Its bitter-sweet, sharp-lascivious, chilly-warm fluctuation is may be the paradigm of passion itself, the obsession of contrasts, the sweetness of deodorants and balsams mixed with the acrid human smell of sweat on sheeting after the sex consumption, the pain of an uncertain, maniacal passion which you think of being scared to convert in love while you pretend to ignore that the monster developing inside of you is harder and more dangerous than the love itself. The play of contrasts starts its work since the beginning (in the top notes and mainly in the heart) while on a base of lavender the strong bitterness by lime and bergamot faces the milder or less sharp trait from mandarine and grapefruit, while the bitter-sweet play of spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and coriander) plunges itself in to the exotic and resinous smoothness of the myrrh. In this middle part of the journey a floral bouquet (rose, jasmine, carnation) is surrounded by a mentholated pine note. The dry down introduces itself as a game of balancements between the earthiness of patchouli and vetiver and the musk/balsams (vanilla and amber) creamy and boise smoothness. Many hours later the outcome is a powdery-spicy-boise-talky kind of smell of pine, cinnamon and rose. I have to stress that the role played by spices (cinnamon in particular) is still eminent after many hours. I use to wear Obsession sparingly in some particular occasions, mainly for romantic dinners in oriental restaurants with an uncertain "prey" of mine as ...., don't quote me for this, a support for aphrodisiac foods.
23rd January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Versus Uomo by Versace

Complex glorious scent that is all initial blast of green elements and citrus, an arsenal of citrus i mean (in particular lime, lemon and mandarin) which plays as tart fruity counter-part to a very resinous (amber, benzoin, vanilla) woody, musky base, passing through an heart (the characteristic romantic floral soul of the scent) mastered by nocturnal flowers and plants (violet, jasmine, rose, orris, palisander, magnolia). Tonka bean and cedar provide their rounded and woody touch to base notes. It's masculine, lemony, fresh and a bit dark with a woody, ambery, musky undertone. Very interesting and unfortunately  discontinued.
23rd January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Chergui by Serge Lutens

Alongside Arabie, Ambre Sultain, Fumerie Turque and others this scent composes the arsenal of syrupy Lutens fragrances, paradigm of luxuriousness and oriental mistery. Unlike the over mentioned, Chergui strikes less my taste cause while being luscious and exotic is not decidedly able to get an insight in the fences of decadent mistery and baroque darkness. It's exotic and tasty (almost yummy) but not dark or mysteriously gothic. Nothing dangerous in here although hardly you can find this trait (the danger) out in the Lutens creations . This is a soft, spicy-green, resinous, tobacco flavoured oriental. Inhaling the aroma i figure in mind the gardens of nobiliar buildings in the peace of a middle quiet afternoon. The nature whispers (rattles and hums) around and the memories of a left over industrious past come back. The bitterness of tobacco leafs and the austere spicy/incense touch balance the sweet mellifluence eliciting from a fruity/floral honeyed amber. The rose provides to the scent an ethereal, slightly decadent touch. I smell cloves (and may be cinnamon or pepper) cause of a green, faintly pungent, aromatic, sweetly exotic barely perceivable undertone in the air. The longevity is remarkable while the sillage is less impressive on my skin.
22nd January, 2011 (last edited: 20th August, 2017)

1 Million by Paco Rabanne

An initially refreshing-citric-industrial and later creamy-spicy-resinous-ambery (synthetic) concoction with a long dusty, stormy and nutty middle fase, a debatable packaging and a good longevity. The stormy heart is a furious dust with a coconut-heliotrope-almond kind of aroma. In my opinion there is pepper in the blend and i find in the "salty-sweet" milky-peppery dust some similarity with Xeryus Rouge and with the less milky and in general far better appointed Shiseido Basala. The top notes are fruity and intoxicating by their accord of blood orange, grapefruit and mint. The fruity blast with a mentholated undertone is longly detectable but the spicy presence of the heart gradually starts  soaring and rising in order to embrace the fruits, to drag and join the spices with some flowers as rose whereof the delicate, slightly ethereal, presence i'm able to spot in the whirling dust. The cinnamon which i love very much enhances the dust and create a wonderful link with rose, delicate and a bit bitter-sweet at once. The chord of citrus, patchouli, pungent cinnamon and balsams (furthermore a touch of coffee?) exhales a sort of dissonant and gummy bitter (almost salty)-sweet kind of resinous vibe. The storm lasts for a long time before the milky, sticky and smooth effect by resins, woods, balsams starts making round the juice. The addition of leather is notable and provides, side by side patchouli, an animalic synthetic and masculine trait. Just an hint of boldness which nevertheless is not enough to get this scent able to espress a certain type of status and charisma. The sillage is good throughout the development.
P.S: Do you like One Million? Try Costume National 21, another (higher) level.
22nd January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

cK one by Calvin Klein

I tend to admire the usage of tea in the olfactory universe This is basically a scent grounded over tea where a fresh dominant tea note drags some fruits and flowers towards a musky and ambery base. A complex blast of citric elements, fruits and nocturnal flowers dominates the top and the middle notes while a tea note links it to a musky, amber drydown. I detect some Paco's trait and a touch of Bvlgari classic Pour Homme based over gree tea. The feminine trait of this unisex marketed fragrance is grounded by floral notes as lily, violet, jasmine and rose even CK One is masculine to me. I apreciate the invigorating effect from tea and the fresh, herbal, musky, nocturnal trait. A bit too fruity for my taste. Quite decent fragrance anyway.
22nd January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

The Van Gogh's Starry Night in a bottle. Olfactory Sturm und Drang. A spectacular dust of stars for romantic love's declarations whispered on wooden bridges of the northern lands. Impressionism in perfumery. Some people claim this is not a particularly complex fragrance but I tenaciously disagree; there is indeed an undeniable aromatic-fougere kind of freshness counteracted by warmer musky, woody and balmy-soapy elements. I enjoy this sparkling, pungent, balsamic (moderately) sweet scent in the coldest nights out under billions of stars, breathing deeply on me the tumultuous, dusty, mystic resinous accord of "stellar" anice, spices, citrus, aromatics and woods. I own the EDP version which is a stronger, spicier, less herbal and deeper version that stresses the oriental notes till the gourmand borderlines. The EDT is a fresh-oriental more grounded on the cool-sparkling notes of ginger, citrus, lavender, galanga and peppery cedar. The EDP is pure magic, luxury and mystery in a juice (despite the Edt is more balanced and refined). This is an oriental scent with a western modern soul and is perfect while overlooking a shimmering skyline in the cold night with your beloved on the side. The blackcurrant (and red berries) enhance the nocturnal characteristic of the fragrance since the beginning of the journey side by side with star anise. The heart is rooty-spicy before the smell slides towards a resinous, oriental base where the milky-silky temperament from vanilla and balsams is indented and stabilized by an insertion of cedar. In the same range as the more refined but probably less romantic and intoxicating Japuir, Heritage, L'Instant PH and Egoiste (and Montana Parfum d'Homme, on a certain extent), Opium Pour Homme is a dramatic, arcane fragrance, sparkling and bursting as the stars in the Jack Kerouac's gigantic, chaotic, chilly nights.

P.S: Opium PH needs time. Today I prefer the Edt on the more simplistic Edp. This fragrance is basically more complex and far more nuanced than how many assume it to be; this juice indeed conjugates a subtle super smooth orientalist mild soul with an aromatic "neo-fougere" fresher (lavender dominant) side a la Houbigant Fougere Royale and a deeper (jumping up at distance, along the way) old-school spicy-rooty vaguely vintage chypre "royal" twist a la Aramis Jhl or to a lesser extent Estee Lauder Cinnabar (a vibe, the latter, which in here is far more tempered, discreet - as a subtle peppery background - and almost occult).
21st January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2018)

Voyage d'Hermès by Hermès

This scent conjures a white, clean, airy olfactory world. Barely close to Costume National Homme (for some nuances) and above all to Salvatore Ferragamo pour Homme, this is a lighter, less earthy and milder Terre d'Hermes (far less classy and complicated). The scent is windy, slightly aqueous, (lemony in the background), light and finally powdery and a bit ethereal. I detect some tea ( a key element ), white flowers, spices, musks, wood, ginger, a touch of vetiver (lemony fluidy vetiver) and amber. The backbone is constituted by a citric-spicy opening, a woody-floral heart and by a resinous-musky base all cruising on a green lake of tea. It's a delicate daily fragrance. Unisex but leaning towards the masculine side.
21st January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Boss Bottled by Hugo Boss

As well as already said you could spend a lot more to have the equal level of scent or even less but it's true just few are able to distinguish this aroma for a standout particular among thousands around. This concoction is like that kind of scents that never fail but never emerge from the crowd and this is the history of Boss fragrances. Boss Bottled is a decent and presentable spicy semi-oriental office fragrance, fresh, masculine, barely "white resinous" and distinctive. The key elements of this scent are a bunch of spices, apple, flowers, olivewood and an hint of smoothness produced by amber or vanilla. The olivewood is notable with its almost oily yellow feel. The scent is moderately sweet and fruity. The link between apple and spices produces a slightly aromatic and green undertone. The longevity is neutral in my opinion. 
21st January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)