Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2344

Black Afgano by Nasomatto

Claustrophobia in a bottle and images of medieval subterraneous prisons and labyrinths coming to mind. Gothic. Alongside of Salvador Dalì Pour Homme, Black Tourmaline Durbano and the new sepulchral Dark Aoud Montale probably the darkest scent i own. The bats circle in the misty air of the night. An obscure, narcotic, resinous blend of many elements, I figure on mind (but anybody is sure apart from the creator Gualtieri) musk, tobacco, hashish, oudh, coffee, vetiver, patchouli, may be heliotrope, precious woods, incense, leather, smoke and some nocturnal flower as the violet. The hidden floral heart beside woods and patchouli produce, in the obscure, camphoraceous, ancient wake, a spark of modern-chic sophistication. Ancient and modern tend to merge eachother in a futuristic and timeless ( gothic and alluring-chic at once) connection. I'm sure that cistus labdanum and may be cypriol oil could be included in the recipe. A starring role is played by vetiver imo (many mention sandalwood and I agree too) but is still important the role played by coffee, aoud, incense and obviously hashish (this one barely perceivable by the experts on the topic). Highly dangerous, naughty, synthetic for sure (nobody demand to nail down the contrary), I wear this scent in order to cut boldly the crowd as an hypnotic vampire in the smoky appalling night clubs all around the world. Longevity and sillage are stunning and impressive (how could anybody tell the opposite?), the scent is as much viscous that could stain fabrics for real. I agree with Off Scenter about its crudity and its exsperimental, hardcore modernism (which compromise sometimes the balance, the measure, and it is probably like that in here) even though we can't deny that this fragrance is anyway addictive, mysterious, intoxicating, dirty, controversial (for sure) and brooding. Enough for me. Black Afgano does not aim to be Boucheron Pour Homme, to replace Pour Monsieur, its goal is properly opposite. Overall in here seems pushed up beyond the limits but it's undeniable people get crazy about it, women seem submitted by its otherworldly, orgiastic, mellow cruelty. At least around me.
P.S: don't believe the hypes guys, don't be enchanted by a massive marketing campaign for sure but I furthermore add anyway...don't be blindly enchanted by the trendy easy appeal of the "charge free" intellectual denigration, we are everybody able to allocate over different levels Black Afgano and Guerlain Derby.
23rd December, 2010 (last edited: 23rd November, 2016)

Patchouly Noir by Il Profumo

A palatin fragrance perfect to stand out in a gala night at Kremlin or Versailles. An artistic patch's rendition, culturally lofty, baroquely decadent and aristocratically libertine. This is Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir, one of the best elements of my heavy arsenal. I use to layer it with a touch of Habit Rouge in order to create the most sumptuous, baroque and regal fragrance ever coiceived, suitable for cerimonies at Royal Palace. In the same vein as Parfumerie Generale Coze but less spicy, more floral and more "vintage patchouli-centered" (and frankly more "elevated" as fragrance). Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir is sumptuous, exotic and mysteriously decadent as a nobiliary palace, ghostly and labyrinthian. It's a patchouli dominant fragrance whose all the other notes, hints of vanilla, cedar, mint, a touch of frankincense, cocoa and poppy, circulate around the earthy note of patchouli, in order to get it smoother, softer, luxuriant and naif. It's a pretty obscure creation, so bold and charismatic because of the accord between balsamic elements and patchouli, but it's also lush and chic because of the velvety and aristocratic sweetness provided by vanilla, supported by a glamour and oriental hint of poppy. The patchouli's darkness is enhanced by a greedy touch of dark cocoa, quite irresistible and posh. The general balance is sheer. A "neutral" and classy cedarwood is starring on the side of musky patchouli, the note of vanilla is well calibrated and licentious, spicy resins push up the general nobiliar sense of exoticism, the aromatic mint imprints since the beginning an almost mentholated-camphoraceous trail while a voluptuous floral note and a delicious amber/tobacco stress the lingering nocturnal decadence of the juice. Layered with an hint of Black Tourmaline Durbano (or with frankincense's pure oil) it becomes something spiritual and transcendent. Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir is a superb creation that manages to lord over all the other scents of the Royal House's ceremony.
23rd December, 2010 (last edited: 13th May, 2016)

Les Nombres d'Or : Cuir by Mona di Orio

A waterfall of cardamom and peppery/roasted leather, too much for my taste. Sort of furiously smoky, roasted, leathery concoction very dirty and acid at the beginning, may be too much animalic and fierce for my pleasure. As already said, it starts with a spicy-citrusy accord supported by an anise-absinth addition. The accord of anise-absinth is detectable thorough the trip, providing to the scent its balsamic (licorice kind) temperament. The following development procedes with the addition of such a resinous, balsamic leather-castoreum real Niagara waterfall. The latter ends up in to an overly linear and aggressive smoky leather accord considerably balsamic and decidedly acid due the absinth as combined with a resinous support by hints of opoponax. The scents conjures up such a body sweat acidity ideally mixed with a green coniferous deodorant on a man engaged to roast meat on barbecue.
23rd December, 2010 (last edited: 04th January, 2014)
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Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo

Unique and revolutionary, this is a semi-aquatic fragrance, a trait d'union between chypre, aromatic/boise and ozone-marine elements. A really woodsy and mossy aroma from the forest standing near a mountain lake. This link arouses a sort of woody-balsamic-ozone marine scent, something that, although in a different way, i detect in Bvlgari Aqva, i mean the sensation of standing in front of a dark-green mass of water in a shadowy windy day with a coastal forest behind you. The aroma is ozone (iodine) blended with scent of wet woods, seaweeds, roots and plants (vetiver, sandalwood, orris roots, oakmoss etc), resins (balsam of fir, amber), musks, flowers (rose, lily of the valley and others), spices and fruits (lemon, juniper berries and peach), altogether whirled and spinned around by a unique breeze playing the game of the contrasts. This scent is almost dense because of the woods and its smell is not synthetic or kinda bath soap, just aromatic, slightly coniferous and ozonic. Wearing Kenzo Pour Homme i figure myself at once over watching the immense dark appalling ocean by the peak of a mountain.
23rd December, 2010 (last edited: 04th January, 2014)

Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano

Superb arid and severe churchy scent, contemplative, stoney and spiritual, the dead fragrance, as said. An orthodox isolated, sinister, woody cathedral comes to mind as well as a burnt woody shack somewhere abandoned in the desolate steppe. The "campfire-aroma" provides whiffs of burnt woods, rocks, resin of cypress and pine, frankincense, oakmoss, leather, rubber, spices and aoud. It seems to finally catch the aroma of burnt woods (carbonized dry woods) in a rainy day plus whiffs of stout leather and eucalyptol. The opening is cool aromatic, spicy, yet leathery and balsamic. This phase conjures me slightly the green Polo (but most of all Jacomo de Jacomo which is more rubbery, classic herbal in structure but less incensey). In this stage the aroma is somewhat mentholated because of the forest resins and due to a touch of eucalyptol. This first aromatic status turns soon out evolved in to something less urban, decidedly decadent, holy, not easily wearable and surely gothic. Any trace of flowers, vanilla or tasty elements around. The juice is actually balsamic, dark, tarry, dusty, earthy and acrid. I detect some remote touch of bilberry in the dry down lingering as a ghost and carring out a tad of fruity appeal as gift. The aromatic woodsy feel lasts throughout the trip anyway. This is an assertive, sombre and shadowy fragrance, the vision of an high, appalling Transylvanian old castle in a cold, windy and cloudy late afternoon. Sometimes I dare to layer it (just a minimal tad) with another masterpiece, the sumptuous Patchouli Noir by Il Profumo; the combination's outcome is a decadent, otherworldly, aristocratic, holy blend.
02nd December, 2010 (last edited: 25th December, 2015)

Onda Parfum Extrait by Vero Profumo

Exotic, evocative, a bit colonialist and divinely rétro. Onda is a weird wave of pungent and animal fruity passion which starts as a punch of ostensibly disinfectant-like and bitter type of "uriney" aroma in order to become one of the strangest floral-fruity masterpieces of olfactory universe. The dry down conjures me just a bit Messe de Minuit although Onda is less incensey and more articulated, earthy/hesperidic and woody (thanks to vetiver, patchouli and woods in the base). Several olfactory nuances arouse apparently in mind a sort of more acid and less airy The Different Company Sel the Vetiver because of the combination of bourbon vetiver, patchouli, fruits, ylang-ylang and spices. Ylang-ylang and the hesperidic presence are noticeable and provide throughout a sort of soapy/exotic and spicy vibe which is really evocative of far oceanic islands. Anyway Onda is pretty bold and recognizable, exotic and at once slightly baroque and decadent, I would say a tad art nouveau. In the alchemy there is a plenty of earthy woods and roots (a starring vetiver, cedarwood and patchouli), citrus, leather (a key element weirdly combined with hesperidic, urinous animalic and soapy elements), floral notes and spices. Spicy leather, floral notes, mysterious fruits, luxurious hesperides and honey represent the core of the creation. A role of protagonist is indeed played by the accord between passion fruit and honey which, supporter by spices and above all by the "pharmaceutical" ginger, determines that particular pungent, ostensibly soapy/medicinal (but basically natural), "artistic", exotic/baroque aroma characterizing the fragrance itself. It's unisex but leaning over the feminine side. Neaby Royal Pavilion an eccentric white dressed woman (I see Doris Lessing) talks about her african glorious left back memories.
28th November, 2010 (last edited: 21st February, 2015)

Blu pour Homme by Bulgari

As already said this fragrance is one dimensional, a perfect after shower (conjuring) aroma to be possibly worn before going to sleep with a sense of soapy cleanliness on your skin. A refreshing watery gingery spicy opening (plenty of cardamom) morphs soon in to a particular balmy-mossy, slightly aromatic and tobacco veined synthetic aroma which projects itself as a special soapy but at once sparkling/spicy "shower foam" type of perfume. Any trace of texture. Captivating and unique but to me unelegant, apologetic and weak. Young girls love it. Not my cup of tea.
28th November, 2010 (last edited: 04th January, 2014)

Blu Notte by Bulgari

A dark, light, powdery, slightly "rubbery/shower-gel type" aroma which neither disappoints me at all nor soars higher and higher on the path of olfactory masterpieces. Decently articulated by the accord of iris and vodka, this is darkened by the implement of dark chocolate turned out slightly bitter by the effect of the galanga among the top notes. The right dosage of (dark) chocolate prevents it by sliding in the gourmand dangerous territories. To be experienced, sometimes.
28th November, 2010 (last edited: 04th January, 2014)

Heaven by Chopard

A now discontinued sort of bracing aroma of bath soap or sport deodorant with a masculine strong undertone, a perfect after shower useful to stroll refresched around home or along your quarter streets but undue for any sort of date, office work, or special occasion out there. It is surely lacking texture and distinction. Similar to a discontinued manly Byblos scent, Heaven is a kind of juice that reminds the early 90's "gymnastic type" of fragrances. The creation features notes of lavender, musk and tonka surrounded by flowers and woods.
16th November, 2010 (last edited: 04th January, 2014)

Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

An aromatic-mossy-spicy barber-shop classic which, after a watery, green, almost balsamic initial burst, settles down in to a sort of petroleous, mossy/shadowy, tobacco flavoured and slightly soapy type of smell. A wonderful rosemary plays a noticeable role arousing a touch of mediterranean, breeze, salty/mild, coniferous aroma of pines of the coast. Clean, discreet, conservative but for many unappealing, a bit "laundry/soapy/bath-foam" type and out of these infamous times.
16th November, 2010 (last edited: 04th January, 2014)

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens

Ethereal, gothic, crepuscular and contemplative, this is the scent of a nocturnal flight by a magical tapestry or a phantasmagorical broom over the sleeping suburbia, this is a love declaration in a 19th century's parisian dawn, expressed inside a dusty (by decorated wallpaper) loft full of books, tapestries, antiquites and lamps. Serge Noir, as said, is a complex blend of smoked incense, dry woods, camphor and spices as cumin, clove, cinamon, pepper. A touch of not listed, resinous aoud is hidden somewhere in my opinion while the cumin, on the side of mystical incense and amber, performs all its usual "soaring" power. Probably one of my two-three Serge Lutens's absolute favorite. At the end of the ghostly night of faires and witches you'll rescue your beloved and swear to her your eternal love.
03rd August, 2010 (last edited: 13th November, 2014)

Silver Black / Onyx by Azzaro

Fresh spicy fougere that reminds to me a sort of less watery kind of Drakkar Noir, although better equipped and much more solid. Nice scent for spare time out in summer evenings of North-East Europe (a past experience of mine in the Baltic area few years ago). The fruity starting is the prelude to a spicy very aromatic, a bit balsamic, heart (coriander, cardamom, caraway, juniper) which slides in to a woody musky base. Unfortunately not so distinctive and unique, this is not the kind of scent particularly beloved by women.
17th July, 2010 (last edited: 13th March, 2011)

Heliotrope by Etro

Delicate and nostalgic this ethereal fragrance is a dive in to memories of far Christmas holidays left back in your childhood. It's a gourmand scent very evocative, sweet, tasty and nutty in which i detect mainly heliotrope, dust of almond, sort of rice cream flavour, white flowers, vanilla and musk. This scent reminds me the taste of some italian Pandoro, marzipan or other sweet cakes. The first blast is hesperidic, slightly spicy and yet almost secretly incensey and decadent. Going on it becomes very soft and powdery/ambery like a sort of outwordly heavenly juice. As well as already said, perfect scent for a romantic summer night under the moonlight.
13th July, 2010 (last edited: 04th January, 2014)
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Vetiver by Etro

Outstanding dark rooty vetiver. As well as yet said somewhere, this is a sort of brutal, rough, herbal, salty, untamed and very very dry vetiver so far from the airy and mild Guerlain's notorius one. Here it's like you can smell the roots and chew the earth around the vetiver roots. The aroma is resinous at the beginning (as well as the Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver for instance) before the stickiness tames down in to a general woodsy sharpness (never too sharp and still slightly resinous, vaguely incensey). This scent is therefore moderately dense, woody, moldy and aromatic. The harsh temperament is since the beginning pushed up by several resinous and coniferous notes as clary sage, angelica and may be cypress. The vetiver appears, side by side with moss and cedar, in the middle of the development yet. The base notes introduce some spicy dry tobacco which darkens utterly the juice, providing nuances of rare mildness counteracting the general saltiness (and a sort of bitter piquant licorice vibe). May be hints of olibanum swirl effectively around in the mix. A real hardcore "piece" of vetiver and surely one of the absolute best vetivers out there.
12th July, 2010 (last edited: 20th September, 2015)

Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

Superb darkness, black mistery, severe balance. Obscure is the night, sinister that man walking away in the cold Belfast's night. Pour Homme is a saturnine, sinister, poetic juice, epitome of the top virile luxury and unconventional class. The initial angular burst is herbaceous, citrusy and aromatic, including some notes like lavender, basil, juniper and thyme. In this phase the aroma is for a while metallic, pungent, crisp and herbal. The blades roll a few time in the air anyway and the soapiness keeps rising up very soon. The yet softer sophisticated heart of this monumental fragrance is indeed woody-floral with notes of patchouli, vetiver, jasmine, orris and hints of spices. This woody heart following the initial aromatic burst links the aroma with the traditional 70's and 80's masculine powerhouse scents traits. The leathery, soapy, powdery, animalic base is rich of amber, dark olibanum, musk, obscure leather, castoreum and oak moss. This dry down is indeed warmer, soapy/leathery and really mossy. The final development is a discreetly rosey, soapy and velvety suede full of shadows (burnt incense), musks and organic molecules. Pour Homme is an eternal fragrance which will be forever a symbol of austere, moody, restrained, almost gothic elegance (despite its undeniable dry/fresh vibe). I must add, anyway, that this is not a one way concoction, it is not exclusively a formal/assertive one; the nocturnal flowers and the incensey ambery base carry effortlessly it inside the fences of the romantic and melancholy territories and place this fragrance out as a perfect one for a romantic date and a whisper of love under the moonlight.
10th July, 2010 (last edited: 18th April, 2016)

Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche

Controversial scent, I'm anytime puzzled and uncertain in my effort to express a personal consideration about it (and about its "dated or better classic" aqueous huge lavender) and in the strange affair of clearing up my taste. Powerhouse scent, too dated, obnoxious, still modern fragrance o what else? I really don't know, what I like about this scent is the undeniable sensation of nasty, dirty, sexy, musky and postindustrial freshness that emerges when you wear it in a cool late spring afternoon before to pick up your girlfriend for going out together in the downtown or to a club (in black leather clothed and, yes, why not, may be full of grease on your hairs). The opening of DN is very citrusy, by lavender sparkling and aromatic, the lavender of the top notes plays a starring role throughout the following development of the fragrance with its splashing, watery projection. The balsamic elements of the heart and the base, I mean mainly juniper, pine and oakmoss, side by side with lavender and the further herbs, provide this scent with that nasty frozen dimension which dominates the Drakkar Noir's soul. The patchouli of the base pushes up the masculine trait which, even due to several balsamic elements, starts soaring higher and higher with its sparkling/herbal/spicy/leathery projection. Ended off the evolution I clearly smell in the aromatic air hints of musky soapiness, faint sandalwood and a gentle note of jasmine. Dry down (the best part) is virile, musky, spicy and leathery (an aromatic confident fresh leather). I would like there had been added an hint of sandalwood ( better an hint more of sandalwood) to balance the excess of balsamic, soapy/detergent and aromatic "watery/barbershop" elements which project the scent out may be somewhat dated, too much watery and anchored to an old concept of green/sporty/aqueous/soapy masculinity. This is faint my complaint.
09th July, 2010 (last edited: 22nd November, 2015)

Allure Eau de Toilette by Chanel

I have great consideration about Jacques Polge, the creator of masterpieces like Chanel Coromandel, Egoiste and Ungaro lll, notwithstanding I can't avoid to tell that this scent, an experimental link of honeysuckle, vanilla, citruses and fruits, is one of those I can't never cope with. I feel Allure as a repulsive, vile stuff and pronouncing these words is not usual to me (I tend indeed to find out a story, a reason, an emotion behind each fragrance even if i don't particularly appreciate the same). Allure smells dirty, dissonant, pungent and fat, I detect a sort of fuel-twist which decidedly fights with my chemistry, it conjures me those cheap unbalanced "stuffy" scents worn by several old women coming from far eastern lands (pungent, overly floral, powerfully hesperidic/oily, acid). A wrong attempt to catch the train of the olfactory allure. A failure on my skin.
02nd July, 2010 (last edited: 02nd April, 2016)

1881 pour Homme by Cerruti

A citrusy, extremely sharp, green, aqueous, aromatic beginning, pleasantly but strongly herbal/citrusy and almost balsamic, is the prelude to a discreet woody, flowery, ambery base, distinctive and dry, a sort of fresh touch of mediterranean breeze, with its lavender, the bergamot, basil and rosemary. The aroma is influenced by culinary herbs, tart citrus, sharp woods (mostly cedarwood) and "stiff" flowers, possessing a further almost mineral subtle hidden secret. Nice scent for daily time in the hot seasons of southern lands. Pleasant concoction ideal for the office.
30th June, 2010 (last edited: 03rd January, 2014)

Jasmin Noir by Bulgari

Balmy and gentle in a way that conjures me vaguely Secret Obsession CK. The whisper of a cool spring night in the yards of a flowered green farm crowded by mysterious birds and buzzers and overlooked by an old farmhouse standing on the hill. The eyes of the owls shimmer in the dark, the crickets sound noisy. This is Jasmine Noir with its dark bottle and its blend of nocturnal flowers, precious woods, almonds, obscure liquorice and tonka. A drama of delicacy and romanticism. Superb.
29th June, 2010 (last edited: 03rd January, 2014)

Ungaro pour L'Homme III by Ungaro

This is complex, nutty-piquant virile sophistication, one of the latest pillars of classicism. I'm a lover of fragrances and own many many great scents in my collection but few of them are so able to break as well my heart. Ungaro lll is one of my best friends wherever I am and surely one of the greatest fragrances ever created. Tall, dark, romantic and conservative, as said, this masterpiece is a true symphony concert, an aromatic, spicy, green, perfect blend of lavender, aromatic herbs, vodka and citrus (mainly orange) as top notes, nocturnal flowers (princess the rose) in the middle and woods (and spicy ambergris) in the base. The outcome is a sort of nutty, woodsy, boozy, dusty-herbal, poetic, saturnine, intimate creation with a notable presence of spices and nuances of fruits, musks, roots and flowers (important notes are also orange and melancholic lily). Ungaro lll is a romance dramatically royal in each occasion, comforting for women, hypnotic in the course of the first date, encouraging in the universe of business. You'll be followed by a sumptuous, nocturnal, romantic, sophisticated wake, by a whisper full of poetry, lived life and dreams. Wearing Ungaro lll you'll embody a sort of decadent and never ending mature aura which pushes ever and ever you upward, over the top levels in these rugged routes of the wonderful life.
28th June, 2010 (last edited: 14th April, 2016)

Alien by Thierry Mugler

A super genial piece of glamour-chic modern perfumery. Alien is weird, carnal/dissonant, floral/poudre, sweet/acid, in perfect Thierry Mugler's style. An hyper fancy synth sambac jasmine's rendition. Deeply influencing in my opinion the following Esoteric by Alyssa Ashley, this scent is an interplanetary barbarian, a sort of extraterrestrial, metallic, balsamic, synthetic frozen vanilla/floral serum's smell, a space shuttle in which I detect the hand of the sadly departed Laurent Bruyere, the king of chic fragrances, working in here side by side with Dominique Ropion in order to blend this sort of perfumed Swarovski. Many assume this is a modern daily time scent while in my opinion this scent is decidedly a night time fragrance even if not exactly dark and mysterious in substance. This one is essencially a chic and sophisticated evening creation. The first burst is earthy and citric-metallic, a sort of roaring synthetic punch that becomes soon flowery in a sophisticated way. The flower protagonist is the jasmine, properly sambac jasmine, a special quality which is assumed to be a pillar of the chic-aura's effect. As well as Foetidus mentioned, this kind of jasmine has an immediate earthy-rooty undertone which, combined with citrusy notes, determines a sort of " metallurgic-floral " opening. The heart introduces an accord provided by interaction between cashmeran, a woody musky element, and the admittedly synthetic Solar note, a sort of artificial element that I can't catch in its essence but that has assumedly a sort of airy, balsamic and vanillic hispid smell. The base notes are mastered by white amber, a softly woody-musky kind of amber, a sort of airy and sunny kind of woody-powdery aroma. Alien is a very chic and modern experiment which, on a pretty daring woman, could wave out as a dangerous burst of pure sex.
19th May, 2010 (last edited: 16th August, 2016)

Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company

Masterly evocative scent that I even prefer over the glorious Vetiver Guerlain and the strongly earthy vetivers around a la Etro's and Route du Vetiver. In my perception this is a sort of colonial exotic vetiver that epitomizes the colonial universe with its oceanic woody ships, the spices, the epic crossings of the sea, the multicolored quarters, the islands, the elysian parrots, the white clothed traders smoking cigars, the sultry and carnal luxuriant vegetation etc. SDV is in my opinion an exotic, ozone, floral-salty vetiver, slightly citric, fruity and earthy in the top, sliding soon in to a flowery (Iris, geranium?), iodated, spicy bourbon vetiver where the vulgarity of the roots and the spices is tamed by the ylang ylang soapiness. This is the vetiver of a windy sunny day on a oceanic green coast, the iodine smell is sweetly blown on your face. At the beginning of development the fruity citric initial burst reminds to me vaguely the aroma of a mediterranean garden by coloured flowers, citrus and fruits. A touch of patchouli in the dry down enhances the exoticism of the scent and anchors this fragrance to the manly universe due to its combination with bourbon vetiver. I would wear it in a sunny, airy, busy day in Caracas or Panama City. A dreamy scent anyway. The longevity is medium for this scent that is in my opinion one of the best daily time concoctions recently (in the last ten years at least) created.
03rd May, 2010 (last edited: 03rd January, 2014)

Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

Inhaling this one I imagine a forest of pines dominating on a promontory beaten by a stormy splashing ocean in a shadowy, winter late afternoon. The dark/green threatening ocean is dreadful and deep and the waves are high and bursting. This one belongs to the ozone-marine family, probably the most infamous of the genres among the scents addicted. It's not my favourite type of fragrances for sure but i disagree with the tendency to discredit previously (as for an intellectual principle) some olfactory genre or family, since each of those owns the same basic dignity in my opinion. This is a really appreciable fragrance anyway, silent and pure in an almost transcendant way. In particular what strikes me is its" mountainous-marine", slightly prickly trail of cool breeze. I detect the presence of something like a citric-green-piney aroma combined with fruity, floral, aldehydic and peppery elements providing a smell that conjures me a frozen type of breeze from the winter sea beating on a woodsy coast. Aqua dry down turns out in terms of "firs and pines" coniferous-ambery-salty ozone effect. The sophistication of the scent is provided by some sharp flowers in the mix, may be jasmine that enters in the middle, following the fruity initial burst and as prelude to a woody-ambery-balsamic dry down. Aqua belongs to those kinds of aquatics not bad for a cool spring time evening out.
30th April, 2010 (last edited: 03rd January, 2014)

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

Classic and very unique scent, by far better than the following flanckers, cult fragrance among women of the earth. This juice has mastered the 80's and the 90's but still now is on the edge. As well as many times was said Fahrenheit is the scent of green-floral, motor oil-gasoline and violets smell which ends down in to a leathery-woody-ambery resinous accord. What I find marvellous is the inedited (at that time) association of the elements (resinous, rubbery, floral, woody) that infuses its original petroleum flowery averagely dry and fresh substance. I detect in the dry down that minimal touch of tonka bean which seems to impress the typical fresh, nutty, smokey rounded effect. Very powerful (in projection) and distinctive it has a remarkable longevity. Versatile in all the situations, either in the day and night time.
28th April, 2010 (last edited: 03rd January, 2014)

Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

Distinction and style could hardly reach higher peaks. A "patrician" piece of olfactive artistry. We are talking about one of the best business distinguished scents ever created (all at once luxurious and exotic), wearing this one you will surely close the deal. What a masterful creation Heritage Guerlain is, the last Jean Paul's giant, powerful but at same time discreet, decidedly refined and decadent although not exclusively baroque, substantially the elegance of the new millennium in a bottle (while Habit rouge represented an epic and historical archetype of elegance). Heritage is a somewhat forbidding fragrance, I mean in the sense it infuses an aura of extreme spicy seriousness and severity. This scent, as a masterly work of balancements, starts with a top of indolent bergamot, fresh coriander and citrus lavender that anchor the juice to tradition, than a spicy-floral (quite peppery, earthy and rosey) middle is the prelude to a woody, well balanced, vanillic-ambery (vaguely incensey) base with its refined spicy-rooty patchouli backbone in perfect accord with the traditional, peppery fougere opening. Pure classy multifaceted Guerlinade. Really close to Davidoff Zino (rose, vanilla/patchouli, oriental spices, sandalwood) despite I find Heritage higher in aristocratic decadence and possibly more complex. The presence of spices, first of all the pepper, is bold and mastering. Perfecty appointed is in my opinion is the link between lavender (a key note, finally freshly powdery-vanillic), tonka bean, patchouli and a magistrally modulated vanilla which represents the refined soul of a complex scent which includes in subtle touches also a bunch of restrained flowers, and an important presence of woodsy elements like patchouli, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, and furthers. A stable in my collection.
27th April, 2010 (last edited: 05th October, 2016)

Black XS by Paco Rabanne

A fragrance for the wolves of the darkness, the scent of the young gangsters and the metals. In my opinion this is one of the darkest fragrances out there, naughty, gothic in a modern way, the goth of a desolate, gloomy ukrainian club in the middle of a cold winter season while you are roaming in black leather clothed around the dancefloor, in order to catch one of the few relentless, lonely, half drunk girls
stuck at counter. Suicide music, squallid unmodern place, disconsolate souls, smell of onions and spirits around, danger in the air. Despite the captivating youthful packaging this flanker could also be considered due for the adulthood and surely mature (though in a brash synthetic way) and bold (that doesn't mean refined), although unfortunately the praline note is a bit too much "chemical". Black xs is a sour-sweet, spicy, fruity monster sillage. The bitter tone is determined by a smell close to lemon and dry pineapple as flanked by sage, than in the middle enters in scene the protagonist, a sort of dry, cold, simil-strawberry note mixed with dark spices (cinnamon and pepper) which extends its strength sliding in to a patchouli leaves and ebony synthetic amber base. Probably the strawberry juice is hidden in the praline note which links the top with the woody ambery dry down retaining a role of protagonist. What i love of this scent is the cold aura of punk and moody desolation that transmits outside, which in my opinion is not understated by the undeniable tad of projected freshness. A fragrance for me is above all atmosphere and individual sensations, this is often sufficient to reserve a thumps up to something un-natural and unrefined still too far to be considered a real masterpiece.
27th April, 2010 (last edited: 03rd January, 2014)

Fahrenheit 32 by Christian Dior

Another fahrenheit's flanker for us. The rather acceptable initial earthy, angular, aldehydic and densely dusty burst, conjuring a fruity-green cream veined (flavoured) by coconut and almond, slides soon in to a synthetic generic vanilla-amber base that is at same time cloying, aggressive/brash and lacking any trace of distinction. I appreciate the idea of blending vetiver and gourmand elements in a tasty mix but my senses feel that the green-earthy-hesperidic presence is too much evanescent in order to aim performing a masculine really distinguished elegance, yealding on the contrary too easily the scene to a generic gourmand mix neither ethereal nor chic or bold but just agreeable as an edible meal. In my opinion this fragrance is unbearable in summer season, i still remind a warm holiday in Brasil few years ago disturbed by the presence of this scent anyway on my side (a friend of mine was wearing that one in huge amount, providing constantly headache to me). Thank God the the holiday soon ended (I joke obviously).
26th April, 2010 (last edited: 10th April, 2014)

Habit Rouge by Guerlain

Let me to exaggerate with emphasis, please. Habit Rouge: baroque, risorgimental, decadent, contemporary spiritual and temporal, Royal and revolutionary, anyway a fragrance to be intended as an historical and epic romance full of love stories, travels, births and deads, wars and peaces. Each time i wear HR i start to figure on mind the Hermitage's interiors or the Royal Building's halls and i feel immediately surrounded by pictures, draperies, chandeliers, tapestries and by any sort of valuables. Years ago, when my olfactory religion was monotheistic, this scent has stood in solitude on my side for more than twelve years, lording over thousands of mediocre scents out there in the clubs or in the offices and following me with its sophisticated wake indiscriminably in more than forty different countries being those cold or warm, exotic or continental, poor or rich. HR used to be the king in each situation. Nowadays, being me a bit less romantic and more disenchanted, HR stands on my desk side by side with other eloquent masterpieces, ready to snap when necessary for a special occasion. When i smelt for first time HR was at London Heathrow wasting time at duty free and my starting reaction was pure shock, i smelt something so different from the green classic fougere, or from ozone-marine, something so evocative, opulent, so boldly and deliberately retro. I had the urge to purchase it. Passing time i started to understand this fragrance which, demanding respect and reverence, required time to be approached. The HR citrus and resinous opening leads the senses, through a woody-floral middle stage, towards a sumptuous powdery-vanilla-incensed-ambery base with a leathery detectable addition and full of many baroque nuances not proper to this vulgar world. HR is like a slightly smoked orange flavored whisky to be drunk while smoking a cuban cigar in front of fire. The Edt, better the vintage formula more hesperidic, earthy and baroque (i dislike the EDP quitely but love deeply the EDC for daily time use) is the fragrance of the Opera and theaters, is the fragrance of the tight and the tuxedo, the scent of the golden domes and arches. HR's man is the anti macho, but for this not less charismatic and unapologetic, he is intellectually bold, a womanizer gentleman. I will always reserve all my respect to this melancholic creation and to all those uninterested wearers going on along the HR's golden road regardless for the contemporary styles.
23rd April, 2010 (last edited: 23rd April, 2016)

Fahrenheit Absolute by Christian Dior

Fahrenheit Absolute is an unpleasant stuff in my opinion, a flanker lacking the loftiness of its notorious predecessor of which it misses the innovative trail. On the wake of the market's trend oriented to create sort of presumptive dark fragrances they’ve adulterated the revolutionary spirit of the previous item, losing back that gasolinic-petroleum slightly ozonic citric freshness which jumped out as the innovative soul of the original scent. The violet is still there, althought subdued, but the link between aoud, incense and myrrh is too heavy, decidedly cloying, almost oppressing with its suffocated brightness, it destroys the fresh and daring masculinity of the original one, just in order to create an unconceivable hybrid neither white nor black. Why don't to call this fragrance in a different way? I stand by the original one.
07th April, 2010 (last edited: 30th January, 2015)

Encre Noire by Lalique

A purified high quality vetiver in notable amount, imported from far oceanic islands, stands side by side with a cold and sinister continental cypress, both over a base of smoked/steamy musky woods. Any shade about something resinous, tasty or gourmand in this fragrance. This is simply a dry and obscure elegant vetiver hundred of miles far from the sunny, windy-ozonic The Different Company Sel de Vetiver, from all the dozens boisterous resinous/earthy vetivers around (Etro, Route du Vetiver, Athunis Sigilly, Mona di Orio etc etc) and from some historical spiced and tobacco smelling colonial vetivers a la Guerlain's classic one. Encre Noir is a metropolitan stuff, very contemporary, not evocative, as said industrial and nearly metallic. It's very clean and fresh. Appreciable and a bit melancholy. For dynamic, desolate spirits of the hurban hell.
31st March, 2010 (last edited: 02nd January, 2014)