Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2384

Imprinting by Il Profumo

An old school formula revisitation by Il Profvmo, a fresh, elegant, aromatic, citrusy masculine fragrance, sort of Eau Sauvage's restyling, more complex and with a more modern and slightly oriental feel due to the implementation of a white tea note. It's clearly perceivable the usage of lemon-bitter orange and verbena where in Eau Sauvage you could smell a link of lemon and rosemary. The middle part of the development is floral as in the Dior's one and in the final part here we find musk and vetiver while in the other one we have vetiver, oakmoss and musk. The green-earthy base here is turned out soapier and slightly mild by the note of ylang-ylang while in the other one they soften the scent by hints of amber. Anyway both are refreshing, daily, conservative and onedimentional (i mean stiff and un-versatile) fragrances good for a splashing refreshment at morning before to face the hard battle of the "aristocratic" life.
24th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Sergio Tacchini by Sergio Tacchini

A decent sharp, green, sportive fragrance full of dignity which combines, in a full of experience way, citrusy, green, woodsy and soapy elements. The diverse notes are combined in a perfect balance. The beginning is hard to face with a blast of citrus, herbs and lime, than the smell slides towards a woody and soft green base due to sandalwood, musks, styrax and a touch of amber. Refreshing and clean this is silently good for work and for the free time around in the nature. The longevity is surprising. Horrible bottle.
23rd January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)

Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein

This historical spicy-oriental which i appreciate deeply nowadays when is by now far from its initial marketing persecution, is a giant that gained its fame by playing the game of contrasts. Its intriguing, schizophrenic smell waves up and down, left and right from citrus to vanilla, from lavender to amber, from conifers to benzoin. I agree with Foetidus when writes about dualism and coexistence of opposites. Its bitter-sweet, sharp-lascivious, chilly-warm fluctuation is may be the paradigm of passion itself, the obsession of contrasts, the sweetness of deodorants and balsams mixed with the acrid human smell of sweat on sheeting after the sex consumption, the pain of an uncertain, maniacal passion which you think of being scared to convert in love while you pretend to ignore that the monster developing inside of you is harder and more dangerous than the love itself. The play of contrasts starts its work since the beginning (in the top notes and mainly in the heart) while on a base of lavender the strong bitterness by lime and bergamot faces the milder or less sharp trait from mandarine and grapefruit, while the bitter-sweet play of spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and coriander) plunges itself in to the exotic and resinous smoothness of the myrrh. In this middle part of the journey a floral bouquet (rose, jasmine, carnation) is surrounded by a mentholated pine note. The dry down introduces itself as a game of balancements between the earthiness of patchouli and vetiver and the musk/balsams (vanilla and amber) creamy and boise smoothness. Many hours later the outcome is a powdery-spicy-boise-talky kind of smell of pine, cinnamon and rose. I have to stress that the role played by spices (cinnamon in particular) is still eminent after many hours. I use to wear Obsession sparingly in some particular occasions, mainly for romantic dinners in oriental restaurants with an uncertain "prey" of mine as ...., don't quote me for this, a support for aphrodisiac foods.
23rd January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)
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Versus Uomo by Versace

Complex glorious scent that is all initial blast of green elements and citrus, an arsenal of citrus i mean (in particular lime, lemon and mandarin) which plays as tart fruity counter-part to a very resinous (amber, benzoin, vanilla) woody, musky base, passing through an heart (the characteristic romantic floral soul of the scent) mastered by nocturnal flowers and plants (violet, jasmine, rose, orris, palisander, magnolia). Tonka bean and cedar provide their rounded and woody touch to base notes. It's masculine, lemony, fresh and a bit dark with a woody, ambery, musky undertone. Very interesting and unfortunately  discontinued.
23rd January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Chergui by Serge Lutens

Alongside Arabie, Ambre Sultain, Fumerie Turque and others this scent composes the arsenal of syrupy Lutens fragrances, paradigm of luxuriousness and oriental mistery. Unlike the over mentioned, Chergui strikes less my taste cause while being luscious and exotic is not decidedly able to get an insight in the fences of decadent mistery and baroque darkness. It's exotic and tasty (almost yummy) but not dark or mysteriously gothic. Nothing dangerous in here although hardly you can find this trait (the danger) out in the Lutens creations . This is a soft, spicy-green, resinous, tobacco flavoured oriental. Inhaling the aroma i figure in mind the gardens of nobiliar buildings in the peace of a middle quiet afternoon. The nature whispers (rattles and hums) around and the memories of a left over industrious past come back. The bitterness of tobacco leafs and the austere spicy/incense touch balance the sweet mellifluence eliciting from a fruity/floral honeyed amber. The rose provides to the scent an ethereal, slightly decadent touch. I smell cloves (and may be cinnamon or pepper) cause of a green, faintly pungent, aromatic, sweetly exotic barely perceivable undertone in the air. The longevity is remarkable while the sillage is less impressive on my skin.
22nd January, 2011 (last edited: 20th August, 2017)

1 Million by Paco Rabanne

An initially refreshing-citric-industrial and later creamy-spicy-resinous-ambery (synthetic) concoction with a long dusty, stormy and nutty middle fase, a debatable packaging and a good longevity. The stormy heart is a furious dust with a coconut-heliotrope-almond kind of aroma. In my opinion there is pepper in the blend and i find in the "salty-sweet" milky-peppery dust some similarity with Xeryus Rouge and with the less milky and in general far better appointed Shiseido Basala. The top notes are fruity and intoxicating by their accord of blood orange, grapefruit and mint. The fruity blast with a mentholated undertone is longly detectable but the spicy presence of the heart gradually starts  soaring and rising in order to embrace the fruits, to drag and join the spices with some flowers as rose whereof the delicate, slightly ethereal, presence i'm able to spot in the whirling dust. The cinnamon which i love very much enhances the dust and create a wonderful link with rose, delicate and a bit bitter-sweet at once. The chord of citrus, patchouli, pungent cinnamon and balsams (furthermore a touch of coffee?) exhales a sort of dissonant and gummy bitter (almost salty)-sweet kind of resinous vibe. The storm lasts for a long time before the milky, sticky and smooth effect by resins, woods, balsams starts making round the juice. The addition of leather is notable and provides, side by side patchouli, an animalic synthetic and masculine trait. Just an hint of boldness which nevertheless is not enough to get this scent able to espress a certain type of status and charisma. The sillage is good throughout the development.
P.S: Do you like One Million? Try Costume National 21, another (higher) level.
22nd January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

cK one by Calvin Klein

I tend to admire the usage of tea in the olfactory universe This is basically a scent grounded over tea where a fresh dominant tea note drags some fruits and flowers towards a musky and ambery base. A complex blast of citric elements, fruits and nocturnal flowers dominates the top and the middle notes while a tea note links it to a musky, amber drydown. I detect some Paco's trait and a touch of Bvlgari classic Pour Homme based over gree tea. The feminine trait of this unisex marketed fragrance is grounded by floral notes as lily, violet, jasmine and rose even CK One is masculine to me. I apreciate the invigorating effect from tea and the fresh, herbal, musky, nocturnal trait. A bit too fruity for my taste. Quite decent fragrance anyway.
22nd January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

The Van Gogh's Starry Night in a bottle. Olfactory Sturm und Drang. A spectacular dust of stars for romantic love's declarations whispered on wooden bridges of the northern lands. Impressionism in perfumery. Some people claim this is not a particularly complex fragrance but I tenaciously disagree; there is indeed an undeniable aromatic-fougere kind of freshness counteracted by warmer musky, woody and balmy-soapy elements. I enjoy this sparkling, pungent, balsamic (moderately) sweet scent in the coldest nights out under billions of stars, breathing deeply on me the tumultuous, dusty, mystic resinous accord of "stellar" anice, spices, citrus, aromatics and woods. I own the EDP version which is a stronger, spicier, less herbal and deeper version that stresses the oriental notes till the gourmand borderlines. The EDT is a fresh-oriental more grounded on the cool-sparkling notes of ginger, citrus, lavender, galanga and peppery cedar. The EDP is pure magic, luxury and mystery in a juice (despite the Edt is more balanced and refined). This is an oriental scent with a western modern soul and is perfect while overlooking a shimmering skyline in the cold night with your beloved on the side. The blackcurrant (and red berries) enhance the nocturnal characteristic of the fragrance since the beginning of the journey side by side with star anise. The heart is rooty-spicy before the smell slides towards a resinous, oriental base where the milky-silky temperament from vanilla and balsams is indented and stabilized by an insertion of cedar. In the same range as the more refined but probably less romantic and intoxicating Japuir, Heritage, L'Instant PH and Egoiste (and Montana Parfum d'Homme, on a certain extent), Opium Pour Homme is a dramatic, arcane fragrance, sparkling and bursting as the stars in the Jack Kerouac's gigantic, chaotic, chilly nights.

P.S: Opium PH needs time. Today I prefer the Edt on the more simplistic Edp. This fragrance is basically more complex and far more nuanced than how many assume it to be; this juice indeed conjugates a subtle super smooth orientalist mild soul with an aromatic "neo-fougere" fresher (lavender dominant) side a la Houbigant Fougere Royale and a deeper (jumping up at distance, along the way) old-school spicy-rooty vaguely vintage chypre "royal" twist a la Aramis Jhl or to a lesser extent Estee Lauder Cinnabar (a vibe, the latter, which in here is far more tempered, discreet - as a subtle peppery background - and almost occult).
21st January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2018)

Voyage d'Hermès by Hermès

This scent conjures a white, clean, airy olfactory world. Barely close to Costume National Homme (for some nuances) and above all to Salvatore Ferragamo pour Homme, this is a lighter, less earthy and milder Terre d'Hermes (far less classy and complicated). The scent is windy, slightly aqueous, (lemony in the background), light and finally powdery and a bit ethereal. I detect some tea ( a key element ), white flowers, spices, musks, wood, ginger, a touch of vetiver (lemony fluidy vetiver) and amber. The backbone is constituted by a citric-spicy opening, a woody-floral heart and by a resinous-musky base all cruising on a green lake of tea. It's a delicate daily fragrance. Unisex but leaning towards the masculine side.
21st January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Boss Bottled by Hugo Boss

As well as already said you could spend a lot more to have the equal level of scent or even less but it's true just few are able to distinguish this aroma for a standout particular among thousands around. This concoction is like that kind of scents that never fail but never emerge from the crowd and this is the history of Boss fragrances. Boss Bottled is a decent and presentable spicy semi-oriental office fragrance, fresh, masculine, barely "white resinous" and distinctive. The key elements of this scent are a bunch of spices, apple, flowers, olivewood and an hint of smoothness produced by amber or vanilla. The olivewood is notable with its almost oily yellow feel. The scent is moderately sweet and fruity. The link between apple and spices produces a slightly aromatic and green undertone. The longevity is neutral in my opinion. 
21st January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

The Dreamer by Versace

The Versace Couture's attempt of performing a dreamy, ethereal and romantic juice. The outcome is neutral cause, while being the fragrance evocative, quite unique and tasty ( although Iwould not talk about a gourmand juice), it pains some synthetic traits, the excess of sweetness, the lack of full distinction and a sort of anti-ethereal simil-laundry aromatic effect of hammam bath soap. The latter vibe mentioned, I mean the bath soap trait, is nevertheless at same time important cause its slight bitter effect (may be an effect from tobacco, cedar and tonka bean) tames in a good way the general sweetness. Many wearers find this fragrance off-limits at morning and I agree with them but who is looking for a daily confortable scent does certainly not stick to Versace The Dreamer. The opening is almost off- putting with its blast of grassy (sage and juniper) citrus, synthetic soap and lavender in notable amount. Twenty minutes later the crispy starting opens the door to an heart which combines the sweetness of balsams-flowers (as powdery iris, lily and rose) with the "sweet/bitter spiciness" from tobacco. The base is mellow and still laundry-watery (still the citrus lavender and fluidy soap effect combined at once with resins, vanilla, amber, tonka), introducing a new addition of spicy woodiness by cedar and terragon. Cedar, tonka and tobacco, whereof the link provides the scent with a soapy, slightly bitter, bath soap effect , create a contrast with floral and tasty elements in order to understate and "dissipate" a tad their sweetness. In the same vein as fragrances a la Remy Latour Cigar this Versace's scent is basically manly and not unisex in my opinion, longevity and sillage are notable on my skin.
20th January, 2011 (last edited: 04th December, 2016)

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

Strange and complex fragrance (waving from the aromatic fougere genre to vintage animalic chypre family) with powerful sillage, tall and dreadful with its metallic, serious, icy, spicy, aldehydic temperament. Surely in the background of Kouros (as source of inspiration) wave several vintage aldehydic-animalic chypre a la Oleg Cassini for Men, Aramis Denim, Monsieur and Moustache Rochas, Balenciaga Portos, Bogart by Bogart, Maurer & Wirtz Tabac Original or Captain Molyneux but Kouros adds to a traditional gentlemanly "stuck" formula a stroke of freshly incensey, robotic, spacious-exotic and postmodern stroke of genius which turns this juice finally out as a timeless piece of iconic virility still nowadays. This scent starts airy, aromatic, angular, super-aldehydic (aldehydic-chypre in style) and metallic, than develops and projects its substance in a dusty incensey-honeyed-floral way in order to settle finally down woody, restrained, ambery-animalic, earthy and slightly resinous in its dry down. An aromatic, mentholated  geyser immediatelly splashes up with a blast of spices, citrus, aldehydes, laurel and artemisia, may be sage. The heart is still spicy by cloves (a key element) but a bunch of flowers sweeten, colour, enrich and pull down the otherwise overly metallurgical and icy initial feel. Dry down is bold, through an earthy-woody (vetiver and patchouli) and obviously incensey tone. Frankincense (spacious and exotic) plays a role of king in the formula and its link with aldehydic-balsamic elements keeps arousing the metholated antartic trait but finally provides, set the dry down, a touch of resinousity to an otherwise too abrasive and edgy as a blade initial accord. A whisper of amber, honey, woods and musk add finally a tad of woody-chypre texture and honeyed feel to the all whole creation. A civet note (salty-uriney and warm since the top) provides a touch of organic leather in the olfactory undertone. In conclusion I have to admit the genius of this creation but simply I can't feel confortable with its industrial, ostensibly chemical and overly frozen main feel. Conceptually I do not find out passion in this concoction. A neutral rating (just based on my personal feeling) is in conclusion the right position of mine relatively of its evaluation.
20th January, 2011 (last edited: 11th July, 2016)

Body Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

I have a strange relationship with this intoxicating fragrance. While is undeniable it features some of my most appreciated notes, i mean incense, benzoin, cedarwood and eucalyptus, i'm not able to give it a right dimension in my collection and in my current rotation. On one hand i don't identify it as a formal or business fragrance cause it lacks the right amount of distinction in my opinion, on the other hand it's not a favorite "hunting fragrance" of mine, a dark weapon for night out cause it is too sweetly powdery, because is lacking of dirtiness, naughtiness, in my opinion mistery and sufficient level of darkness. I don't identify it as a scent for special events cause it has not enough boldness and class and i can't place it just as a casual scent for free time around cause anyway i consider it too devilisly good and eccentric to reserve to that a marginal role nevertheless. I must add that it's too much rich to be ranked as an after sport or gym scent as somebody aim to assert. Just for the upmentioned reasons i limit myself in order to assign a neutral rating to the scent which i forget to have over when sometimes I wear it around. Cleared this up i must admit this is a fragrance which i love to wear for myself in loneliness or spending time with my girfriend or at home after the shower on the sofà in front of tv ( it happens not more than five evenings for each full year). Body kouros is a balsamic, incensey, oriental fragrance with a woody and powdery texture. It has a faint undertone of anice-licorice and is considerably airy thanks to camphor woods, mace and eucalyptus . Women go crazy for that cause i think is irresistible and very sexy the incensed, balsamic, resinous accord. The benzoin and woods of the base tame the otherwise overly unbodied dusty, airy temperament of the beginning in order to impress to scent a mellow and woody (more solid)
texture while keeping up the incensey feel. The longevity is good while sillage is a bit weak starting from
the central part of the development.
20th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)
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Chocolat by Il Profumo

A "tamed" piece of gourmand (a semi-gourmand) outcoming in its concert of trails (ideally) as a gentler (anything but "boaster" and more refined) sort of "anything but urban" A* Men with much more chocolate in the blend, hints of rose, without coffee/honey and with a less creamy edge. A* Men is futuristic there where Chocolat is stuck in its saturnine/baroque past. Dark and decadent. This fragrance features also vanilla, spices, ripe fruits and some woods. I detect a note of patchouli which is a slightly aristocratic and luxurious/baroque one and not a brash/bombastic hyper glamour Patch a la Mugler. It's important the role played by spices and hesperides which provide to scent a slightly angular, sweetly prickly, barely exotic and refined vibe. The longevity and sillage are half bodied. Not bad.
19th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th October, 2016)

Vetiver by Guerlain

Rich tobacco, tonka bean, vetiver, spices, warm simil-organic balsams in a sultry exotic timeless mélange. Once, while spending my holidays in Amsterdam, I've met a french boy with the passion for fragrances. He told me about his Dad's maniacal passion for a great exotic classic, the notorious Vetiver by Guerlain and about a sort of unparalleled fresh, clean, "trans-oceanic" aura elicited all around by this fragrance, a polite-daring-charming masculine feel due to its tobacco note (combined with exotic spices, secret animalic patterns and sweet balmy resins). Few times later I watched a wonderful advertising printed on a magazine (the sail-boat floating on a green sea- better a see made about trees, bushes, grass and greens) and I decided to give this scent a try. Few scents, I admit, exude a pair sense of freshness and "Far oceanic lands" cleanliness and it's true this fragrance is still exotic and classy even if the new formulation understates its greatness. Many are complaining with the new formulation and I agree in part with them (anyway the Vetiver's formulations are nowadays a lot and we'd have to distinguish all of them). The current formulation is too much linear, less hesperidic and complex in my opinion, taking away that touch of boldness and crisp luxurious initial temperament that the old formula kept on and that is somewhat necessary in my opinion in this kind of gently mild, green fragrances. Guerlain Vetiver is a mild, slightly airy, gentle vetiver, so far from the untamed rough ones like Route du Vetiver and my lovely Etro's one. You hardly can perceive the earthy temperament here and after the initial citric spicy blast the fragrance slides soon in to a sort of smooth, slightly resinous, mild/salty, mellow, musky/tobacco/balmy aroma, may be for many too much "smooth" and gentle. Perhaps today I prefer the earthy vetivers even if i love the airy Sel de Vetiver, surely not rude and a lot breezy-salty, indeed. Anyway this scent remains a great one and the key of its fragrance is represented by a link between neroli, vetiver, tobacco, may be civet and a touch of myrrh. Tonka bean provides a nutty, fluidy-seasoned-spicy-exotic feel to dry down and the spices engage to push up (side by side with tobacco) the exotic masculine general feel. Unfortunately longevity and sillage are just moderate on my skin. Always a pleasure to take a shower by the bath foam all over
Shampooing Pour Le Corps Guerlain and to copiously spray this fragrance on yourself at morning.
19th January, 2011 (last edited: 11th October, 2015)

Dunhill for Men by Dunhill

The classic Dunhill for man reminds to me the smell of scents i used to inhale in my childhood while entering in bathrooms somewhere inside the houses of my parents' friends and curiously approaching the bottles standing near mirrors and washbasins. It performs the smell of the elegant and classy man as by me perceived at time. It's a classic and sophisticated cologne thanks to the strong initial accord of citrus-lavender (luxurious for sure) and with its tonka bean at base. The olfactory development performs at the beginning in a citrusy and freshly aromatic way, furthermore it becomes sharply floral, woody and leathery. The latter is a key element as combined with sharp/restrained floral leaves and hesperides. The aroma is discreet and clean, a bit vintage because of its citrus-lavender strong link but still wearable nowadays as a timeless classic. The generous presence of flowers in the heart is able to tame the otherwise overly impressive conservative and sour edge of the top and the dry down The base is infact severe and classic due to a link between cedarwood, vetiver, leather and tonka. Anyway the elements are expertly blended and balanced. A timeless classic although a bit old school and not versatile for the current standards.
19th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels

I own a 125 ml of the original formulation in the old green bottle. Heaven at morning. Few fragrances (in comparison with it) give me a similar pleasure in wearing at morning before to go out. TSAR appears immediately fresh and invigorating, than soapy, slightly mild and woodsy. The fragrance conjures me a bit Romeo Gigli By Romeo Gigli (the two fragrances share many elements as greens, patchouli, floral notes, spices, neroli, balsams, sandalwood, hesperides, lavender etc) but is a smokier (i mean tobacco rounded), more herbal and less honeyed-spicy-animalic one. It reminds me also a bit YSL Jazz but in a greener and more complex way. TSAR is an aromatic fougere particularly floral and spicy (so masculine with hints of ambergris, smoke, fir resins and castoreum). It's not as austere as V&A Pour Homme and is very sexy and virile. It's a bracing, green, mossy scent, classy and conservative although not vintage or retro. The top and the heart of the scent, previous an initial aromatic, green (artemisia, rosemary etc), spicy and citrus blast (orange the most prominent), are essentially fruity-floral with their neroli, lily of the valley, jasmine and carnation. The pepper has a prominent presence in the heart and throughout the scent anyway, enhancing the masculine feel. A touch of cumin introduces a whiff of dissonance and soaring masculine acidity. The base is soapy, woody, animalic and mossy. Yes, there is a sense of smokiness (more spicy toasted tobacco than smoke itself) around, expecially lingering in the dry down while i don't detect leather (may be just a sort of final suede joined with woodsy resins and minimal hints of animalic patterns) although mantioned in the base notes. Once a pretty girl, a friend of mine, sniffing a scent on me, told that my fragrance was like the carnal aroma of warm manly chest and armpits under the blankets at dawn (after love), well i was wearing the great TSAR in that occasion.
18th January, 2011 (last edited: 16th July, 2014)

Sculpture Homme by Nikos

The cedar is the king of this "thirsty" and soapy/warm scent even when the dry down is smoothly "casted" by vanilla and ambrette musky oil arousing a particular smell in remembrance of left back summery holidays in the greek islands. Cedar, citrus and tonka bean provide an initially angular, metallic, a bit tobacco veined and citric watery (may be due to lavender) touch to a fragrance otherwise (finally) warm, creamy, velvety, "oily" and frankly a bit cloying. Orange blossoms are also notable (in the silky slightly musky and tobacco coloured trail) providing a fruity taste to scent. The longevity and  the sillage are full bodied.
18th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Montana pour Homme by Montana

Soapy, powdery, discreet woodsy chypre in which blend i detect above all (in the top) bitter orange, lemon and aromatic herbs than (going on) cedarwood, resins, floral notes and musk. The opening is very citric (and the artemisia surely pushes up the sour astringent/aromatic initial temperament of the scent) but the almost fierce opening lasts fortunately few minutes. The fragrance indeed soon fades in to a musky, for a while powdery, almost opaque (anyway discreetly mild) lemony-mossy smell so balmy, slightly exotic and refined. The addition of amber enhances the soapy, (musky/animalic), resinous temperament of the dry down. Very good longevity on my skin.
Ps: i have to admit this is a wonderful scent, the beginning is a bit hard to approach but the musky (carnal and almost edible boise) dry down, with its incredibly balanced and sophisticated iris/geranium spark plus patchouli and amber, is simply to die for, elegant, smooth, exotic and charming.
18th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

A leathery, woody, dry juice full of nostalgia, to me at least.
This scent conjures me the early 90's with their bonfires on the beach, the crazy parties, the general well-being, the trips by motorbikes, the mega discos and the dreamy music. At that time i was a free spirit and one of my fragrances was Jazz. While i still appreciate this particular fragrance which stimulates my nostalgia i prefer to set it as a stable stone of memories choosing different aromas for my current life out. The juice reminds me slightly TSAR V&A which is greener and more complex in my opinion. The top and the middle notes are all sour elements (citrus and green notes), flowers (as a general favorite of mine like geranium) and spices. The base notes of this scent are woody, leathery, ambery and mossy. The last two elements, amber and musks I mean, soften the otherwise overly dry and sharp perfume infusing a smooth and soapy touch. A central role in the aroma is played by flowers (clearly detectable as central "union" between the citric opening and the woody, leathery, ambery base) and by leather which I detect after a couple of hours with its smooth, sensual, animal feel. Sillage in Jazz is impressive, you perceive its presence for metres around.
18th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Trussardi Uomo (original) by Trussardi

A saturnine giant, moody and poetic. A great take on earthy-spicy luxurious leather. Glorious powerhouse partially reduced in darkness and richness nowadays as Foetidus clearly underlined. It's still an eccellent blend of dry spices, dry-toasted tobacco, aromatics, woodsy notes, frankincense and leather despite with my last try by vial I was a bit disappointed about its olfactory power. Anyway Trussardi Uomo is still a great and load fragrance, one of the real leather heavyweights out there and one of the greatest "powerhouse-fragrances" ever. When I inhale it perceive the typical "leatherwears" undertone and feel a very elegant and uncompromisingly masculine touch. The beginning is harsh, brash, barber-shop, aromatic, aldehydic and still intoxicating by lavender, basil, citrus, sage and by a touch of myrtle to colour with a boise vibe the wild/sour explotion. I love the top notes which appear almost carnal and surely balsamic. The top notes very soon morph towards an "intimate" heart all spices, moss, tobacco and leather. Several sharp flowers ( jasmine, geranium and may be rose) operate with myrtle in order to get the fragrance more mild and gentle. The base is composed by heavy woods and austere frankincense. What can I add? While I'm really delighted by smelling on myself this fragrance I admitt it's one of the most "problematic" powerhouse to wear, it's still great as business formal fragrance but for today standards is too severe, conservative and not versatile, undue for a special night out or an easy evening for the streets of downtown. Very austere is the role played by the note of earthy/spicy (dry spices) incense. I'll keep it as a specific business formal scent. On this kind of goal this juice is highly performing. They will appear submissed in front of my forbidding assertiveness for sure.
17th January, 2011 (last edited: 02nd December, 2016)

Nuda by Il Profumo

I submit here my review about Pioggia Salata by Il Profvmo cause i'm not able to find the right page or may be it was not set yet. Sorry.
This is a balsamic, floral-salty and finally soapy ozone-marine scent. We can talk about a sort of " mountaineous-marine " fragrance. The salt is everywhere, from the top to the base, the salt is the backbone of the fragrance itself and it's surrounded by many elements (soapy and boise). The top notes are salty-ozonic due to seaweeds and the salty undertone by Flor de Sal whereof smell reminds the typical violet aroma. The heart is a bouquet enriched by diverse flowers ( among those hybiscus and musky rose) surrounded all around by salt (marine and mountaineous salt). The base is all powdery woods, marine flowers, a touch of soap and above all aromatic-talky eucalyptus flower. The eucalyptus feel is prominent since the first spray, since the beginning you perceive a mentholated, marine, salty smell. This is an unisex fragrance in my opinion and the longevity is medium.
17th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Bang by Marc Jacobs

All i detect is a peppery, clamorous boisterous introducing "bang" absolutely dusty, harsh and prickly, than a following averagely dry (slightly aqueous for a while) dry down mastered by woody notes and vetiver in particular. The latter plays a succeeding role in a way i notice it expresses similarities with Terre d' Hermes, Kenzoair and a bit Encre noir (but in a more synthetic way). An hint of patchouli and musk provide a masculine trait while aromatic resins as combined with benzoin imprint to dry down a sort of creamier soapier (actually more rounded) touch. Settled the dry down we have a more appealing, tamed (in spiciness), smooth vetiver with a durable dusty undertone. Not bad.
16th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Hot Water by Davidoff

Another fresh/warm, spicy oriental, disappointing and mainstream. The structure is usual and common, a fresh herbaceous aromatic/spicy opening (basil, absynth, pimento and patchouli) and a resinous oriental woody base (styrax, benzoin). The fragrance itself conjures me a dozen of further scents out there ( Slightly One Million, La nuit de l'homme, Hugo Boss In Motion etc ) and in my opinion is pale, undistinguished, synthetic and boring. The starring role is played by styrax-benzoin tropical, flowery, creamy accord. I perceive a too much fruity/spicy taste, may be because of the fruity tropical styrax aroma. Let's go on.
16th January, 2011 (last edited: 06th January, 2014)

Ice*Men by Thierry Mugler

A blast of mentholated, frozen, woodsy elements all combined with a waterfall of nutmeg, got precious by a bold star patchouli insertion, by an hint of musk and a whisper of gourmand notes (a touch of vanilla and coffee). This is Ice* Men, a game of contrasts olfactory player. The mentholated, woodsy, aromatic effect probably is determined by a link between lavender, cedar, mint and patchouli leaves, all turned out spicy/dusty by a massive nutmeg rain. This is not an aquatic scent in my opinion despite a touch of (frozen) lingering ozonic breeze, this is a borderline aromatic fougere, slightly edible and really "splashing" and balsamic/camphoraceous. The longevity and the sillage are strong. A synthetic (brash and glamour) solution along the hot summer nights for all the "cuccadores aspiring latin lovers" engaged to hunt overheated ladies nearby the crazy resorts of the coast.
15th January, 2011 (last edited: 05th January, 2014)

212 Sexy Men by Carolina Herrera

A fresh oriental, a risky genre of fragrances, hard to break up from, uneasy to be familiar with. I find 212 generic, cloying, too powdery and too kind of polite young teenager. I neither find it particularly sexy and cotroversial nor naughty-dangerous or dirty. It's like to savour a tasty forgettable candy. A green, citrusy slightly aromatic opening leaves place to a floral, spicy heart in order to lead the aroma towards an ambery, oriental, woody base. The guaiac wood is prominent, many talk about odour of human sweat, i agree with them but consider it a positive trait on a fragrance (Scent Intense comes to my mind for instance). The concern is that i find this scent having too many olfactory similarities with juices around (even if 212 doesn't develop as well as the following scents that typical bath foam effect) as well as Le Male, The Dreamer, 1 Million, Lempika au Masculine, Body Kouros (which I appreciate), Bulgari Black and others. The concept is similar: spicy, aromatic, balsamic, camphoraceous or coniferous top elements (mint, eucalyptol, lavender, cedar, pine, cypress, sometimes incense) over a woodsy, resinous, oriental (vanilla, benzoin, resins, woods, amber) base. Yes, these scents are captivating at the beginning but some of them perform just as powerful after showers or antidote for the depression if you decide to stay at home delighted on your couch. These are too wet-powdery, overly creamy and almost edible, too close to a Talco smell. Not my cup of tea for a night out for sure. 
15th January, 2011 (last edited: 05th January, 2014)

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro

A legend, one of the greatest fougère ever, my departed Dad’s eternal fragrance, sharp, herbal/sour/anisic but at same time exotic (a la Aramis Havana), bold, dandy and charismatic. A fragrance all in one elegant/formal/classic and audacious/alpha male/sensual. Yes, confident as a loyal husband and blatant as the brassest, most unreliable of the womanizers. Azzaro Pour Homme is timeless and projects a sort of fresh and insolent kind of extinguished glorious sensuality. Masculine and daring with a wonderful "brass" sillage. The top notes are herbaceous, spicy and aromatic due to basil, anise, lavender, petitgrain, citrus and sage. A blast of spicy-herbal freshness. Geranium takes part at ceremony in order to tame the aromatic drought and refine up that liquorice-watery-cardamomish accord which many talk about. The initial rough spicy blast, losing soon the turbo but not the balsamic aroma, slides soon in to a woody, virile, coniferous accord projected by herbs, citrus and woods as vetiver, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, cardamom and juniper berries. The base is woodsy, elegant and invigorating by musk and ambergris, tonka, oakmoss and a touch of leather. Yes, timeless and still actual. Aramis Tuscany is a more formal/nostalgic version of this one (frankly I don't see all this connection to Ysl Rive Gauche). Even nowadays you can easily notice this unique scent fluctuating all around the world in the air (in South America or in Moskow as well); turning on your back and looking over your shoulder you’ll probably notice a sweetly smiling fascinating "man of the two worlds" and I guess you could figure in your mind the Caracas's white buildings and the high majestic walls of the Kremlin as being painted in his confident eyes.
14th January, 2011 (last edited: 24th January, 2017)

A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

A bombastically creamy/syrupy but at once temporarily icy-lamellar patchouli. Honey at the beginning. Love or hate it? The evaluation is neutral for me. I can't say to hate this scent at all and i can almost appreciate the boldness of its patchouli and its metal accord of mint and lavender. The problem is that this fragrance is too sweet and tasty to play its chards in terms of classic masterpiece. Too high is the risk many could perceive it as a cloying or off putting stuff. The sillage is impressive. A*Men exhibits the internship code for the clan of notorious synthetically yummy and bombastically gourmand scents around. It exudes an artificially mentholated and balsamic kind of darkness .This types of scents were and are still very fashionable among teenagers raving on discos and parties, are outrageous and bully but they miss the genuine and natural sophistication of the classics. A*Men is basically patchouli surrounded and mellowed by honey, coffee, chocolate  and watery artificial mint in my opinion. Citric elements, wood, lavender, tonka bean, patchouli and musk anchor A*Men to the manly olfactory universe preventing that to fly towards the gluttonous world of the delicacies by its abominable "breakfast type of" accord. The longevity and the sillage are powerful. To be worn exclusively on minus ten degrees fahrenheit, night time or possibly while going to a trendy and cool club accompanied by a 20 years old funny boaster teen girl.
13th January, 2011 (last edited: 27th March, 2014)

Zegna Colonia by Ermenegildo Zegna

Generic, simple and watery. It starts as a citric, slightly flowery, woodsy, lime based scent and slides in to a warmer but still sunny and airy clean juice, casual and easy. A touch of benzoin and spices give a whiff of texture and motion to a stuck woody base. The sillage is pale. A drop in the olfactory ocean.
13th January, 2011 (last edited: 13th March, 2011)

Duro by Nasomatto

Duro is a leathery woody (powerfully woody) juice, spicy and slightly smoky (peaty) which rides the stereotype of an unapologetic brash masculinity. Duro conteins no flowers or fruits or "fru-fru" balsams in its composition and is ideated as a scent that manages to enhance all the manifestations of masculine strength. High secular trees, campfires and resins jumps on mind. Duro is an aoud based scent, a bit balsamic, musky and rooty/earthy. Many facets conjure me more than vaguely the Montale Aoud Musk's combination of elements and (on a certain extent) MPeG Parfum d'Habit could be considered a refined Duro's far cousin. I detect (as well as mentioned) the cherry/maraschino presence on the top before the aroma starts to become drier and drier along the way. The longevity is notable though it doesn't reach the Black Afgano's peaks. It’s a potent stuff with an earthy, crisp temperament. I guess there are seasoned woods, a touch of vetiver, cuoio (stout leather), aoud, frankincense (minimal) or galbanum and spices (may be black pepper) in the composition. I'll recommend it to my friend Peppe, the macho man for excellence, clothed (wrapped) by leather, rough and boaster with the girls, tanned (almost brown) in February but often and often ready to cry in loneliness against the walls, guys, ahahahah. :-)
12th January, 2011 (last edited: 16th January, 2018)