Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2426

DKNY Red Delicious by Donna Karan

Oh, whatta hell is this? The Barbie's smell may be.
12th February, 2011 (last edited: 13th February, 2011)

Aromatics Elixir by Clinique

Wonderful, aromatic and sensual chypre which is a renowned name in the great glorious worldwide perfumery history. The combination between green, aromatic and earthy elements with woods, sensual flowers and resins (mostly waxy) is gorgeous and sumptuous. This fragrance is extremely spicy/carnal, holy and mysterious at once. The smell, as well as illustrated in the advertising, conjures a bit the aroma of burning aromatic candles and is full of atmosphere, spirituality and esotericism. Camomile (slightly resinous in this case) is the key element, it's perceivable and plays a role that the lavender uses to accomplish in many fragrances around, it provides a fluidy/spicy, bit traditional feel but in a more feminine way. It is the natural shelter for white flowers, earthy vetiver and rooty stark patchouli in the way it is performed an impenetrable and mysterious blend which is highly aromatic even due to green notes as may be basil and verbena. Musk and amber perform a bit of animalic/woodsy density and flavour in order to polish slightly the general rawness with a syrupy animal insertion while heavy woods as dry saldalwood and oakmoss interact with resins and musk in order to infuse texture and substance to the rooty, sylvester juice. I detect a bit of smoky incense (and I'm almost sure about). This fragrance is able to impress sensuality also to a very mature demure woman, it's erotic and spiritual at once, it expresses a subterranean sinful sensuality hidden behind the outlook composure. The mystic sensuality abides in the complicated bouquet of arcane flowers and in the deeply floral, exotic, slightly "laundry" and sensual ylang ylang trail. The ascetic temperament is expressed by the elevated union between earthy, rooty, floral, resinous obscure elements and by incensey/waxy resins. You must have a lot of additional character and charisma to wear this misty, exotic scent. Great projection expecially with the EDP.
11th February, 2011 (last edited: 09th January, 2014)

Boss Bottled Night by Hugo Boss

A floral/aromatic fougere with a light smell of violet and a confident virile approach. The masculine trait is in a while enhanced by the introducing lavender, by a pleasant birch resin (providing an intimate woodsy/aromatic feel- a bit berry type) and by a following notable cardamom. This first stage is slightly herbal/alcoholic (may be vaguely boozy), sparkling (it seems i detect also bergamot), modern, really virile, peppery and somehow conventional. The jasmine delicacy hardly performs in the spicy water of citrus/lavender and sparkling alcohol. The base is woody (louro amarelo and sandalwood) and musky. The latter performs better after a couple of hours emerging when the virile aroma tames a bit. Fresh, uncompromisingly masculine but ordinary and forgetable, this is the almost all Boss's fragrances story.
11th February, 2011 (last edited: 09th January, 2014)
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Adidas Originals pour Homme by Adidas

Fresh, aromatic and masculine. The final note of vanilla tames a bit with its smoothness the mentholated, alcoholic, slightly earthy temperament. I agree with the previous reviewer, there is a timeless sort of vintage casual note which teleports us in a left back wealthy age. The fragrance is discreet and close to skin.
11th February, 2011 (last edited: 22nd November, 2013)

Joop! Homme by Joop!

When I was 20 used to seriously love this vibrant fragrance for clubbing while nowadays, whether not hating it (since its uniqueness and several positive trails) i'm absolutely not able to conceive wearing it in public. In my opinion this is a "culturally" synthetic and sugary candy aroma even if I agree who with affirms we'd have to appreciate its audacity and the skill of the moonshiny performer. Joop Homme is a monster sillage with an enormous longevity. It's a sort of bright, aromatic, sweet, electric, mentholated, sour black cherry syrup. The key elements are cinnamon, heliotrope, honeysuckle, jasmine, red fruits, patchouli, orange blossom and creamy musk. Vetiver and tonka provide a remote tobacco bitter/sweet rounded undertone while an obscure, synthetic, aromatic note exudes a sort of prickly-sparkling spark in the frosty air of the night. A winner among young ladies and eccentric fellows.
P.S= recently I smelled it around me in the air since it was worn by a friend, it was night time and he had sprayed JH at morning, well the aroma was still there, powerful and bold but it smelled less "sugary/sweaty", less fruity, more restrained, spicy and seriously smoky (not properly tobacco flavoured but spicy/smoky and somewhat ashtray type). Well, it was a little surprise which got me to catch the basic "powerhouse" nature of this excentric and "futuristic" concoction.
10th February, 2011 (last edited: 08th October, 2014)

cK be by Calvin Klein

I really appreciate this discreet fragrance cause is barely aqueous, minty and at once woody, floral and musky all together in a light way, in the form it's just conceived to arouse a sense of cleanliness and dry virile discretion. About this concept i agree with many of the other reviewers. The dosage of the fruits is moderate and what dominates the fragrance is for real a watery and floral (magnolia) white musk which starts very fresh and mentholated in order to settle down a bit  warmer and comforting. I detect a touch of dark spices, the fruity peachy note and the mild touch provided by tonka and opoponax which balances the widespread, ostensibly "acid" tartness coming from flowers, herbs and fruits. Nice scent even if lacking of stout sillage and longevity.
10th February, 2011 (last edited: 09th January, 2014)

Midnight in Paris by Van Cleef & Arpels

What a disappointment! Unisex leaning over the feminine side. Conjures me up many fragrances around mixed together, in part Givenchy PI (at the beginning with several Armani Diamonds' facets), a tad Bulgari Black (a less interesting and anyway diverse one I mean, lacking the rubbery note), slightly Biagiotti Roma (woman) and a tad Very Irresistible (woman) with hints of Ange ou Demon and JPG Classique. V&A Midnight in Paris is an ordinary talky floral (vaguely mentholated-aromatic) concoction, inoffensive, slightly nutty and lacking any trace of mystery (Paris is not the Gothic Prague but preserves a whiff of mystery at night yet). The floral-fruity accord, watered down by hints of tea, is too much pronounced (despite the following presence of just a single flower and not a variegate bouquet) mastering in the general dust. The top notes are citrusy and aromatic with an hint of leather rising up from the back yet. The leathery note is perceivable throughout the scent (being one of the few interesting elements around) and tames a bit the general sweetness with its slightly dissonant aftertaste together with rosemary which imprints a touch of bitter freshness. In the middle the tea note infuses a touch of fresh and watery masculinity (thank God) due to the presence of a single flower, lily of the valley, that hardly strains itself in order to provide romantic melancholia or darkness. The base is nothing than an "inoffensive" sweet powdery dust (with a touch of resinous), due to the presence of incense and benzoin, with aromatic, herbal, slightly bitter undertones thanks to smoky tonka ( as usual in this kind of fragrances) and Styrax. The latter is in my opinion the key element of the final outcome with its nearly mentholated balsamic undertone. Boring and somewhat overly synthetic.
09th February, 2011 (last edited: 10th March, 2017)

Black by Kenneth Cole

It reminds me a lot of other fruity, musky or powdery scents out there as Polo Black, Hot Water etc. For me this is an industrial, fruity, musky, incensey creation full of spices and with a sort of licorice undertone. Nothing special, nothing really dark or seductive. Green notes, spices and ginger provide a mentholated undertone, violet leaves afford a tad of darkness while musk, amber, incense and hints of smoke enrich the semi oriental-dusty trail. The mandarin is very prominent and the black suede (combined with citrus, violet and musk) impresses to the fragrance a velvety, leathery slightly boise temperament. That's the part of the juice i prefer (the final suede). Surely appeling, modern, versatile and boringly pleasant.
09th February, 2011 (last edited: 09th January, 2014)

Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

Talky-sharp, minty, slightly powdery, softly spicy and with a minimal touch of cream and controlled sugar. One of the most refined oriental concoctions out there, a fragrance that, far from screaming brash richness, whispers subtle refinement and business-elegance. This is not an heavyweight of creamy mellifluence, it's instead a well balanced piece of olfactory creativity which I mostly prefer for a business event than for a free night out. I like the edt better than the edp, being the latter less balanced in the execution in order to "more notably" rise up the mellow/soapy/oriental elements. Jaipur Homme, passed away the first citrusy refined blast, performs an initial talky mild stage because of a great usage of the dusty and powdery heliotrope (the very dominant note). Since the beginning the sweetness is moderate and the balance is quite severe. The main rule is a severe balance from the top to the bottom so that the balsams/resins-usage (vanilla and amber) of the heart is basically smooth and light and its weight is tempered by the suavity of a dreamy rose-jasmine and by the moderate addition of nutmeg and cinnamon plus a touch of aromatic mint while the base doesn't mention milky-balmy notes in dominant amount (just a touch of benzoin) being structured by tonka and cloves which provide a bitter-sweet touch with the undertone of tobacco. The outcome is a masterpiece of superb olfactory art.
08th February, 2011 (last edited: 16th June, 2017)

Boucheron pour Homme by Boucheron

This is pure class and refinement, a very sophisticated aromatic-soapy chypre with a delicate (though rich and variegated) floral heart. While the final outcome is smooth and soapy (though yet structured and classy), the citrusy-green accord of the top notes is so pronounced to anchor undisputably the scent at the most conservative olfactory tradition. Really aromatic (coriander, basil, verbena, lime and more which enhance, as combined with balsams, ylang-ylang, florals and musks, an aura of extreme classy radiancy a la Chanel Pour Monsieur). Boucheron Pour Homme is an extremely sophisticated, classy and exotic creation with an heavily floral heart. This is a formal business distinguished semi-oriental, a sort of soapy lemonade with the texture of woods and the sophistication from flowers. I detect salty, waxy and musky elements as well. Many have written about the wonderful, herbal, hesperidic initial accord. Actually the fragrance is marvellous and long lasting, teleporting us in to a left back glorious age full of optimism and planning quality. It combines all the main citrus (bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarine) together with basil, lavender and verbena. The outcome is a spectacular mentholated lemon-orance juice since the top. In the middle phase the citrusy initial blast slightly fades, without disappearing at all in its olfactory citric effects, as directed towards a bouquet of flowers whereof several are rose, iris, geranium and jasmine whose sophistication is enhanced by the mild, woody, floral exotic and slightly soapy ylang-ylang aroma. The base is very complex cause is woody (powdery woods), slightly incensey/resinous in its undertone, ambery, musky and rooty with the tobacco (balmy rounded) undertone provided tonka bean. Along the way I detect in part (just in a part of the scent's substance) a sort of extremely salty/hesperidic aromatic tartness a la Cerruti 1881 (partially counteracted and "embellished" by balsams, resins and musks). Florals and ylang-ylang provide throughout extreme sophistication. The outcome, while traditional in structure, is full of nuances combining the citrus freshness with the refinement of the sophisticated floral notes and the warmth by a rich woody-soapy base. A giant.
08th February, 2011 (last edited: 09th November, 2016)

Tokyo by Kenzo

There is a lot of solitude under the Tokyo skyscrapers. Tokyo is a weird fragrance which i don't dislike despite being far from my usual olfactory taste. I use to appreciate the correct usage of tea note in perfumery and this scent smells to me as an oriental (in its "solitary and ambiental" conception i mean), bit moody and dark tea fragrance, aqueous and spicy. Closing my eyes with the aroma of this scent under my nose i figure in mind my last holidays in tokyo and kyoto, i figure the smell, the taste, the flavour of meals and drinks from the far east. Tea, ginger, mate and spices are the soul of the scent and inhaling its fresh, sparkling lightness I don't know why but tend to think about several japanese light drinks and soya foods. The spicy, woody, hesperidic opening, very light and airy, is flooded by a water of fluidy tea and ginger in order to create, even due to the orange addition, a sort of spicy, fruity, aromatic type of tea based cocktail drink. The color of this cocktail is dark brown. The woods seem to be dry and light. I don't perceive the strong, resinous texture of the wood. The base is woody and spicy and keeps on the masculine fresh sort of brown trait. The masculine trail is rised up by pepper, ginger, cedar and several other spices. There is not a lot of progression from the heart to the base. The heart is the mastering part of the scent (characterizing) after the first blast of citrus and spices. Unfortunately longevity and sillage are faint on me. There is a lot of solitude in this fragrance.
08th February, 2011 (last edited: 09th January, 2014)

Patchouly by Etro

This is a crisp and severe royal incensey patchouli, surely exotic (resinous) and earthy but never velvety and properly syrupy. Several dry elements whirl around the patchouli in order to stress its earthy, dirty, liturgic soul (in a way not so distant from the Vintage Givenchy Gentleman's formula). Tobacco, hesperides, spices, anise and dry woods enhance its austere temperament infusing to it a severe though soft aura. The sweetness is subdued and tamed in comparison with different mellow-sugary, patchouli centered concoctions. The outcome is a refined, soft patchouli, resinous but not rich and mellow (or musky), elements we could have eventually crosschecked in the case a support of dominant amber would have been present in the mix. Vanilla and amber are listed in the dry down (minimally and masterfully blended) but the element that masters the juice is the role played by dusty frankincense, mint, arid tobacco, dry and camphoraceous woods overall performing in order to enhance the "molecular/exotic" and aromatic main trait of the fragrance. Accents of sharp flowers as rose and geranium in the woody middle part provide a touch of floral elegance and soft ethereal-botanical subtleness to the whole creation after a citric-green-dry spicy opening. Very impressive is the longevity.
07th February, 2011 (last edited: 21st January, 2017)

Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

I think this fragrance is neither a bold nor a distinguished one. It's definitely too chemical-synthetic and too type of a bath soap one. What I actually prize about this one is its kind of stormy (splashing) strong projection (even if i find some similarities of it with Lempicka Au Masculine and with Body Kouros which i surely prefer) and its unquestionable appeal with the (expecially young/teen) girls. This is a watery-aromatic, milky-mossy-detergent fougere, intoxicating though synthetic at the beginning in its shampoo of creamy lavender full of minty soapiness and almost edible in its evolution. The undeniable sweetness is watered by lavender and soothed by musk which is blended with vanilla and amber in order to express a reasonably mild (rather than a terribly sweet) accord. The final issue is a pleasant though overly linear musky talco, clean and powdery, which stops its run barely before the boundaries of the gourmand territories and projects a remarkable sillage throughout around. Mentholated lavender, spices, balsams and orange blossoms are the key elements of this favorite of many women all over the world. Tonka beans and may be an hint of tobacco provide a mild-bitter (but rounded) trait to this full of contrasts fragrance. A mentholated and hesperidic first spicy blast (like a sort of "volatile" bath foam) is the relaxing shield for a musky, creamy blend of tobacco and woods. The longevity is notable. Many talk about a clubbing scent, i disagree, nothing naughty in this one, anything dangerous or seductive, nothing kind of "after hours juice", just another amazing after shower.
07th February, 2011 (last edited: 09th January, 2014)
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Lui by Mazzolari

Honeyed firce patchouli. I'm looking forward to receive my first bottle of Lui after having withdrawed a vial, evalued the reviews about this scent and endorsed the juice itself. What can i say? Never been so excited to receive a fragrance, it's all of what i've ever expected a favorite scent of mine has to be: dirty, dangerous, bold, dreadful, dark and funereal. A dream. It's hard to find but the effort is worthy. When I wear it feel a particular feeling I use to perceive with few scents around (accountable with the fingers of one hand). I perceive a sensation of psychological power over the others, as well as they'd be under submission by me, I feel tall, unapologetic and a bit insolent. Don't quote me for that, I love the brash, virile scents and Lui is indeed really testosterone in a bottle at least along the first trait of its evolution. It's distinguished, minimalistic and modern. Such a best friend of stuffs like Aramis by Aramis, Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan (and why not?..Masque Montecristo) Lui is an ambery-patchouli slightly green (obscurely minty/aromatic) masculine concoction but overall is a leathery, animalic fragrance cause the strong mold of leather that Lui exudes smells dirty, musky and animal (I see the Bel Ami's reference despite Lui smells dirtier and stronger on Patchouli and animalic notes). Is like inhaling the smell of a leather coat shined with a patchouli/musk foam and stained with a bit of motor oil. The lethery patchouli is the backbone of the scent. An high quality and moderately resinous, dark smoky amber supports its masculinity without mellowing too much the earthy temperament. I perceive anyway a green, woodsy feel throughout the trip and for hours as well as the drydown is set on the olfactory ground. There is as well a sort of turpetinic undertone supporting the main notes, especially while "sailing" from the top to the core. Cedar, musk, tobacco and may be an hint of civet/castoreum surround the dark amber-patchouli accord with raw animal dirtyness. Vetiver and spices support the rooty feel of patchouli while a wet sandalwood seems to tame a bit its muscularity with a warm touch of resinous texture. I detect an hint of lavender that anchors a bit the juice to the tradition. Somewhere trails of flowers are listed in the blend but frankly i'm not able to detect those. The dark amber is a bit smoky. I agree who with writes Lui seems a less herbal and heavy kind of Parfum d'habit and who with specifies its animal temperament is not that sort of brew and vulcan proper of other scents less dry or too mellow. Lui is not the earthy Etro Patchouli but is not so mellow as other nearly syrupy and erupting kinds of patchouli even though is a somewhat dark and mysterious one. Overall this is a great virile and elegant fragrance easily likelable for a nocturnal (classy/seductive) battle down in to a club or a lounge venue. Longevity and sillage, as said, are almost nuclear.
06th February, 2011 (last edited: 13th March, 2017)

Rocabar by Hermès

Rocabar is a coniferous, slightly powdery, chypre aroma, very green, spicy and almost mentholated at the beginning although finally too sweet and mellow in its type of white-soapy dry down. The top notes produce a sort of mentholated, crisp breeze, balsamic and bracing. The blast is a kind of frozen one due to the combination of the spicy lavender over a woodsy cocktail dominated by juniper berries, green leaves and woodsy needles. The transition towards the central woody notes developes the mentholated, balsamic, aromatic theme with cedar, pine and cypress whereof I smell the green aroma of the needles. I love this fragrance until this point of the development, a phase in which its woodsy temperament is realistic and natural. Actually the final part of the trip introduces the strongly sweet presence of balmy resins and balsams. The smooth cushion embraces the elements of the forest in a sweet, soft embrace may be too daring in the engage of casting an almost creamy base for the bosque. The outcome is a sort of syrupy vanilla cream aromatic and mentholated. I was expecting a nice "early bird" scent while otherwise what i disclosed was a "cold evening out" type of scent.
05th February, 2011 (last edited: 08th January, 2014)

No. 1 for Men by Clive Christian

A powdery, spicy, floral scent with a woody-rooty base and a soapy spicy
temperament. I detect spices, several floral notes (they list lily of the valley), sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, amber and benzoin. Number 1 for Men is a fresh soapy fragrance. About the price what can i add? According with the brand's statement the high price is focused on the packaging and rare quality of ingredients. It's a shame anyway but  according with opinion of some rich people the quality of fragrances is strictly proportional to their price. Boh!
04th February, 2011 (last edited: 17th October, 2014)

Obsession Night for Men by Calvin Klein

I agree, it conjures a bit Tom Ford Black Orchid, a moody, melancholy and less boaster type of juice eventually, and is a diverse scent comparatively with the Classic Obsession, more romantic but a bit oppressing and less distinguished. It's dark and a bit mystic. It features mainly the suade-pear spicy accord which can sometimes "sound" slightly cloying. The fruity beginnig reminds a bit the flavour of cooked spicy pears, a taste coming back from the abysses of my childhood. It's a dry fruity accord which joins itself with the strange heart mastered by black suade exuding a sort of velvety type of violet leaves aroma. The earthy, smooth vanilla centered, woody base surrounds with warmth the fruity-leathery spicy accord. Obsession Night is an interesting and slightly sinister fragrance which projects mystery and a sense of pain in the air.
04th February, 2011 (last edited: 08th January, 2014)

Sandalo by Etro

There is a sort of exoticism in each Etro's scent which never fails to intrigue me and so in this case does Sandalo. This fragrance is a very likeable stuff, it's a woody oriental with an exotic spicy tail (quite close to MPeG Parfum d'Habit under my profane nose), a discreet and delightful fragrance based on amber, patchouli and sandalwood. The scent itself is woody and mellow (by precious resins and fruits) but there is a certain touch of smoky incense or hints of a sort of bitter licorice or burnt caramel kind of presence in the background which i like so much. The introduction is citrusy-floral with orange and rose that exude a delicate and bit exotic initial mild fruity/floral whiff. The middle notes settle on the olfactory ground a woody rooty stable heart. Each element stands at its right place in order to create a perfectly orchestrated general balance. Sandalwood is prominent with its real woody, resinous (in this case) temperament, patchouli provides noble boldness, the cedar a boise and luxurious sour (restrained) touch to balance the oriental following base and the lavender expresses green "laundry" tradition and a touch woodsy freshness. The woody, dry heart which lists a touch of lavender preludes a soapy oriental base which lists dreamy myrrh, amber and musk. I perceive the ambery magic touch and the woodsy temperament by musk. The amber-musk link introduces a sort of woodsy soapiness whereof the green temperament is not deflected by just an hint of myrrh. The combination between amber, myrrh, woodsy and rooty elements reminds to me slightly that one operating in the exotic old Vetiver Guerlain. The sweetness is moderate and is the type of natural one inherent the elements as woods and amber.  This is a very delicious and distinguished scent utterly refined for each occasion. Even if longevity is not the best imaginable i assign to it a full thumps up cause is one of the fragrances i love more in all this magic but dangerous (for my wallet) olfactory universe.
03rd February, 2011 (last edited: 15th January, 2018)

Fendi Uomo by Fendi

Super holy giant straight from the deep 80's. One of the classiest scents ever. Virile, conservative, aristocratic, funereal and "luxurious leatherwears conjuring". The Fendi by Fendi male royal counterpart, many points in common with the great Trussardi Uomo, Balenciaga Pour Homme and Salvador Dali Pour Homme as well (like being an ideal more decadent/aristocratic mix of the overmentioned three creations), a fur-like floral powerhouse with baroque prerogatives and a sheer intellectual aura. I get immediately a blast of hesperides, aldehydes, lavender and cumin. Rich, sinister and palatine. Massive roman regal buildings, elusive high class fur-dressed women, tobacco corners, neo-classic debauchery, leather-sofà, chandeliers, golden framed paintings and dark unmentionable rooms jump ideally on mind as you are spinned around by a "turbine" of multifaceted nuances (floral, hesperidic, leathery, earthy, spicy, woody, oriental, mossy, exotic, fruity). A decidedly sour and astringent "appalling" welcome is the prelude for a powderfully spicy-fruity (pungent and sweet) and richly floral heart before the scent starts sliding towards an obscure, heavy, mossy and leathery-animalic (hyper refined) base. The outcome is a refined yet spicy-herbal, mossy, berrish, liquorous, finally soapy-dark concoction (dominant the spicy-viney vetiver and a velvety soft leather), a sort of warm regal liquor epitome of the 80's, due to be worn just for hyper-formal events. This juice is quite strong, spicy and dirty (musk, patchouli, castoreum and leather together in a stout connection) and I detect furthermore a sort of woody (sandalwood) and dense rooty (vetiver, patchouli) temperament slightly sweetened by amber, sweet spices and a bunch of rich flowers as carnation and cyclamen. Repeat, a veritable forbidding, "kind of mournful", "Palatin/Baroque", decadent and conservative piece of italian luxurious left back perfumery.
03rd February, 2011 (last edited: 04th November, 2017)

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Intense by Issey Miyake

A shadowy, somewhat dark, amber, incensey sort of l'Eau d'issey with the notable spicy prickly edge from cardamom and a less floral presence in the composition. The beginning is spicy and almost off putting, different from its predecessor initial phase cause the pungent temperament from the spices starts rising immediately from the back, turning out in a less airy and cloudy way the "original" aroma (which by now appears veiled and far less radiant). The base is proper to a smooth heavy chypre. The outcome is an hybrid, a sort of moody, spicy and woody aquatic with a metallic starting trait, an incensey dusty soul and with a smoother (but darker) base (grey amber and benzoin).
03rd February, 2011 (last edited: 08th January, 2014)

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake

One of the most successful aquatics for sure even if not my cup of tea...for sure. This citrusy-woody aquatic, in the same vein as Acqua di Gio but woodier, fizzier (partially in a slightly pharmaceutical way, at least at the beginning), sweeter and less dry, basically in my perception is a floral-green "orange-lemonade" with an hint of mellon juice addition. It's airy aroma with a great sillage and this is what i like. I remember a "panoramic dawn" spent in Berlin few years ago with this scent on my wrist. My best friend was sleeping, i was not able to do that and so decided to steal a spray of this scent (L'eau d'Issey) in order to examine its evolution while leaning out of my hotel's window overlooking the city on its point to wake up. L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme is aromatic, fresh, sparkling, intensely floral, "eastern" in its "japanese" translucent "tea-like" conception and synthetic. It infused to me a sense of bliss and serenity. The top notes, a touch fizzy-medicinal and aldehydic, are spicy aromatic with sage, verbena, cypress and yuzu (the eastern touch), a refreshing  kind of oriental citrus which links itself perfectly with a bunch of spices. The heart is all sophisticated flowers, some of them "aqueous", and spices. The dry down is woodsy and mossy with hints of tobacco, vetiver and insertion of amber. This phase, while upholding all the fruity, floral aromatic freshness of the first part of development, provides texture and soapiness to the juice that finally morphs in to a smoother tobacco, musky, sweetly floral outcome. Longevity and sillage are notable.
02nd February, 2011 (last edited: 15th May, 2015)

Wazamba by Parfum d'Empire

Inspired by the african musical ceremonies this exotic scent is a woody, incensey fragrance not hauntingly assertive or properly (classically) churchy but wearable, carnal, exotic, yummy/spicy and almost tasty with its edible elements. It's a blend of woods, incense, cinnamon, coniferous resins, soapy resinous notes (opoponax and labdanum) and fruit. The initial fruity spicy dust conjures me a bit the initial Black Cashmere's spicy storm and as well as it happens with the Donna Karan's one it is not just an incensey fragrance cause here like there an important role is played by captivating fruits, soapy notes and spicy woods. Wazamba is surely a less spicy, more salty-bitter-sweet (smoky) kind of scent and a more resinous one in comparison with BC. The initial blast is compelling and dissonant but soon the diverse elements take their part in the "african" ceremony. It turns me thinking to a sort of incensey-camphoraceus Arabie. Also the latter is a lot resinous, fruity and myrrh based fragrance but it is far more spicy . In the body of the incensey scent is influencing the fir resin-apple syrup accord which provides to it a recognizable dense fruity/musky typical flavour. Sandalwood and cypress wood give texture and warmth while the juxtaposition between the edible labdan-opoponax and the dusty incense  draws the scent far from the churchy territories turning it out it tasty and mellifluous. This is a great solution for the fond lovers of incensey experiments.
02nd February, 2011 (last edited: 08th June, 2014)

Marte 61 by Battistoni

This review is for the Classic Marte Battistoni Roma, now may be discontinued, on the Directory and hard to find.
The Classic Marte is a distinguished, fresh fougere and a valuable solution for formal events and business meetings. Luxurious and slightly baroque though in a virile/aromatic way. The top notes are citrusy and refined with an hint of basil, geranium and artemisia. The first blast is indeed aromatic, astringent and almost mentholated. The heart is floral in a really modulated way (jasmine and carnation) while the base is mastered by rosewood, astringent cedar, vetiver and an hint of tobacco. The rosewood is in opinion the characteristic element of the aroma, a musky/rosey wood flanked by aromatic elements, refined hesperides, hints of pepper, dry tobacco and probably ambergris. The dry down is really gorgeous with its sour, a bit smoky, nearly incensey but still aromatic/musky mark. This is a dry floral scent with a lot of woody texture and a green bitter aromatic soul. The longevity and sillage are great.
02nd February, 2011 (last edited: 08th January, 2014)

Armani Eau pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

The original version was a real gem, a masterwork of balance and refined masculine hesperidic discretion. The new formulations are pale on my skin. Sort of musky-spicy lemonade, if possible. There is some hidden benzoin may be joined to a touch of amber in order to support the smooth/boise final evolution, a natural shelter for the luxurious initial hesperidic valzer. The general luxurious (articulated) soft and fluidy muskiness, as already said, is a bit powdery, mild but never cloying. This is a subtle and fresh (slightly green) masculine chypre, traditional and classy (super conservative and assertive). The top fresh and invigorating notes are all citrus (mostly lime and neroli) and green elements (overall is extremely restrained and balanced), immediatelly washed by a splash of spicy lavender in few minutes, settled the transition towards the heart. Cloves (may be cinnamon) provide a spicy subtle sweet touch since the middle notes and going on to the musky final turn out. The base notes express the woody texture of sandalwood, hints of balsams and the boise oakmos's muskiness enveloping the green/spicy "lemonade". This is a timeless concoction invigorating and clean expecially if worn along the spring/summer southern working days.
01st February, 2011 (last edited: 09th July, 2017)

Xeryus by Givenchy

Stiff (though slightly exotic), moody, classic aromatic fougere. Citrus-lavender, oakmoss, sage, sandalwood, geranium, amber and other notes turn this fragrance out very similar to the sadly disappeared Coveri Pour Homme, which i prefer to this one because of the Givenchy's one final too stressed warmth while the Pour Homme kept on till dry down that touch of green-earthy freshness that makes more wearable a fougere. The mossy warmth as already written, is enhanced by a link between artemisia, woods and moss which pushes up the heat in the dry down pumping off in that phase the coolness provided before by cypress, aromatic notes, fruit and citric lavender. The beginning is all watery citrus, basil, grapefruit and sage and is wonderful because, while forseeing the following depth, exudes woodsy aromatic, herbal, sufficienty cool and mentholated notes before the dark-grey warmth starts to rise up from the background. As well as the woody-spicy-mossy density by cypress and cypriol starts soaring, the aroma keeps becoming massive and enveloping the initial citrus fluidity. These woods are resinous in my opinion and this is the reason of that tarry, nearly gummy trait dominating the final outcome. Some flowers as dry geranium and jasmine ( i detect violets and may be rose) exude moody and obscure botanical refinement in the middle of the development before the fragrance settles in to a warm sandalwood, incense, amber, rubber  base smoothed and encompassed by musks from the forest. There is an hint of vetiver in the base but not so marked. I've heard the new version is a better stuff
because is airier, fresher and subdued in musky density. May be but i would not swear about. The longevity is strong while sillage is medium bodied.
01st February, 2011 (last edited: 30th October, 2014)

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

Another top Classic from Guerlain, which stands in the same clan with scents a la Dior Homme, Valentino Uomo, Chanel Egoiste, D&G The One, Boucheron Jaipur Homme and furthermore. Super chic fragrance. L'Instant is a citrusy, oriental, spicy, slightly balmy languid creation which is a perfect balance between spicy woods, fluidy fresh lavender, hesperides, soft suede, nutty/chocolatey delicious notes and a vanillic-ambery final aristocratic accomodation. There is a "citrus-nuts-anice-lavender-cocoa-suede founded" naïf vaguely art nouveau accord which, expanding its performance from the top to the bottom, appears like the veritable backbone of this whole olfactory experience, a "cultured core" playing a central role introducing itself like the characteristic trait of the perfume itself. The anise-citrus-lavender combo is the first trait whereof the "kinda licoricey" bitterness is quickly sweetened by a spicy jasmine. The "licorice-jasmine founded" link is an accord I use to appreciate a lot, mostly on the feminine concoctions. The woody and watery/green (all at once fresh and warm) heart is the most important and characterizing part of the structure. The licoricey sort of undertone is strengthened by a dry woodsy luxuriant cedar, some woods provide texture and stableness balancing the water-lavender fluidy temperament exalted by the accord of tea-lavender which is the natural shelter for a greedy note of cocoa beans, nutty and chocolatey. This part of the scent performs and structures strongly that nutty-oily anisic creamy semi-gourmand accord which characterizes the fragrance in its deep soul. The musky base introduces a new element of balance "towards" the " liquidity " and impresses a green/musky/woodsy feel, adding finally a subtle nutty/floral trait aroused by hibiscus seads. A touch of vanilla roots down a tad of refined balminess but always in perfect harmony with the general balance and without crossing the boundaries. Expertly blended fragrance which stands out through that highly refined and modern peculiar nutty/washed/green/anisic/ambery (luxurious) trait which is at same time classically intellectual and modernely glamour-chic.
31st January, 2011 (last edited: 08th February, 2018)

Elements by Hugo Boss

Hard to find nowadays this is a very interesting fougere, earthy, fruity, woody and spicy at once. The citruses-plum-terragon-thyme link represents the main feature of the fragrance cause exudes that dirty, fruity, balsamic trait with a bitter, mentholated undertone which flavours the woodsy base " created" by sandalwood, oakmoss and cedar. The mossy-ambery dry down, as connected with spices and a deeply floral heart, conjures me partially scents as Enrico Coveri Pour Homme, Police Dark and Ungaro III (but Elements is more spicy-dusty, fruity and resinous). The dirtiness is produced by a sweet-bitter contrast of elements. The elements are those of mother nature and their aroma is musky, woodsy and conjures me slightly aromatic mild tobacco (i think plum joined with cedar, tangerine and terragon produces this perfume). Nice scent for free days outside in the farm.
31st January, 2011 (last edited: 07th December, 2014)

Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier

In the chaotic and intoxicating initial dust of this woody oriental i smell splinters of vetiver, almond-orange liquor (coming out from an initial bitter-sweet accord of amaretto and neroli) rose, a touch of incense, some spices and amber. These are the key elements of the Dragon which is a complex vetiver for real, a resinous but pungent nutty whisky with rosey and creamy undertones. The beginning is floral liquor very aromatic and already embraced by earthy/rooty tentacles lifting from the vetiver, cedar, olibanum and patchouli rising from the background, the roaring Dragon's kiss. Vetiver is detectable at the end of the game (at least in my opinion) and is the soul of a fragrance which systematically waves its superb rose from the creamy liqueur to the earthy vetiver-pathouli dust. This scent is a play of balances and ambivalences and the confusion (the puzzling mess of booziness and dissonances) in the perception not always (not properly) is a drawback. In the middle of this story the musk hardly manages to counteract the woodsy harshness from a stout cedar while the sophisticated feminine iris and an earthy rose run side by side in order to settle down the unisex trait of the scent. The base of Dragon reflects the game of the opposites and blends the earthy dust from the vetiver-patchouli association with the smoothness aroused by some resins in order to set a shelter for the floral/spicy liqueur. The final outcome is warm and smoother although the animal is not tamed at all. I must say that this scent, pleasant for winter evenings, works also decently in daily time and in the hot summer nights out, it's strange but this was my last impression. Unfortunately, as usual for many Cartier's, longevity and sillage are decidedly weak on me and over this sphere is based the reason of my neutral rating for a fragrance whereof the dry down, evanescent and speedy as a meteor, remains a real gem for all the perfumes lovers.
31st January, 2011 (last edited: 07th January, 2014)

24, Faubourg Eau de Parfum by Hermès

Sophisticated floral waves, orange blossoms, mellow fruits, a touch of camphor, honey, decadence, "hints of potpourri" and woods seem to be magistrally blended in order to issue this mysterious and spectral feminine creation. 24 Faubourg is a real Hermes, sumptuous, classic, silent, deep, elusive and enigmatic. Intense floral notes seem to be present since the top on the side of massive hesperides (bergamot in primis), arcane spices and dried fruits (a prominent note of peach, orange, may be hints of apricot). The heart is orchestrated by spicy orange, roots, herbal elements and florals while the dry down is velvety oriental notes, woods, moss, modulated resins and patchouli. Orange blossoms and a sort of honeyed fluid (probably honey itself), oakmoss (may be labdanum) are detectable characteristics of the fragrance while a realistic patchouli stands out in order to soar higher the earthy enigmatic feel and to counteract the excess of oriental smoothness. This is a real Parisian creation, a distinct half aged woman observing show cases on Boulevard des Italiens or sat on a bronzy bench intent to read a romance under a tree shade in the middle a public garden. An extremely artistic creation rich of class and mature mossy-chypre deep sophistication.
30th January, 2011 (last edited: 14th December, 2015)

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen

When a fragrance, despite being sin in its deep substance, despite festering otherworldly secretions or aphrodisiacal seminal liquid of dragon (at least for the main part of its development) notwithstanding achieves the hardest conceivable effort to enter its olfactory substance inside the human contemporary fashionable parameters, well talking about balances in spite of that accomplished miracle is like breaking the spell, like daring to replace its perdurable, supernatural trait with a material boredom. That critical exercise becomes therefore eventually a vulgar manifestation of olfactory chauvinism in case. Kingdom in the course of its evolution discloses itself as "ultra-dimentional" potion able to teleport me in a medieval steaming contexture, in a world of Holy Inquisition, decadent castles and fortifications by drawbridges endowed. A vague world in grey comes to mind, a world of secret loves consummated in the hidden rooms, a world of damsels and carriages towed by robust horses. Such types of fragrances hardly aim to reach the perfection of balances and long indeed to uphold the dirty, the obscene, to convey around a message of debatable luxuriousness. Kingdom manages certainly to become a contemporary fragrance but is a scent that lives a struggling conflict between obscurantism and modernism and is one of the most feminine ever cause (it is absolutely true) conjures, even if just in its obscure background, the smell of women anatomy, a whiff of acid/mild feminine sweat, the aroma of consummated sex and secretions. While the off-putting whiffs in Allure slide in to disgust and the overly acid, in here on the contrary evolve towards a pheromonical smell of sin. The bitter-sweet smell of passions, the controversial waves open at once the doors to a surprisingly modern glamour trait in a scent ideated for the women of the Kingdom’s court. The vulgar and animalist accord of citrus-neroli-ginger-cumin-pepper (the soul and core of the fragrance i mean) is the gothic, dissonant and decadent characteristic of the juice, is the otherworldly face performed by witches and fairs, is the sabre of scandal. The cumin is prominent, overwhelming, spicy, sultry and dirty, it is circled by the other soldiers in the mission of rising up human secretions, animal molecules and disappeared wild odors in the night of the ages. Rose and jasmine must strain themselves in order to counterpoise the animal, pungent (sweaty) trait with their sensual and "contemporary" vibe. Is like to tame a crazy bull, a furious blooding beast but the flowers couldn't manage to get it in loneliness, they needed a support for sure. The creamy, woody, musky base achieves the strenuous attempt to link and root down the potion to the new world ground, to the contemporary age, in order to step from the imagination up to the real, to give texture and consistence to the sultriness, to support the flowers in the attempt to fence the animal in. The stout sandalwood, supporting flowers and balsams, manages in its task, completes the mission, tames the animal giving stableness to the madness. The outcome is a contemporary pheromonal, dark rose-woody scent which manages to wave from the gothic to glamour, from the animalist trait to modern chic at once realizing all with wonderful sillage and a great longevity. Kingdom, accomplished the transition, will anyway be in our olfactory memory for its hidden core of left back (in the medieval past) atmosphere and not (for sure) because of its final modern (and more ordinary) outlook appearance.
29th January, 2011 (last edited: 28th September, 2014)