I believe this one to be reformulated, possibly in late 2010. The sweetness is much more in the front. The top/heart that used to balance the base just right, is now less green and less interesting. I am cautious towards vanilla, and it has now passed the threshold of being a sweetened, but nicely balanced fragrance and ended up being too sweet for me.
Probably it sells better now though.. Shame.
My problem is, I'm not a fan of heavy hitting sweet stuff. Especially when coupled with musks. Also Kurkdjian and I don't have a good history. It also happens that I really like the dirty stuff and complex musks. So this was a fragrance I approached without knowing what to expect.
Well, I liked what I smelled. A lot. While it's not highly dirty or animalic by my standards, it is an excellent fragrance with a very natural quality to it. Not cloying, but not in the least transparent. With its fuzzy texture, it feels like polar fleece. Warm, fuzzy, but not terribly heavy.
Honey, smoky amber with lots of labdanum, cedar and SANDALWOOD. I'm surprised nobody mentions this, but the sandalwood in absolue pour le soir is amazing. Perhaps this is a case of synergy, like in the case of montale's oud cuir d'arabie, where the rest of the ingredients make a synthetic come off much more like the real thing. At any rate, this is how I like my sandalwood. Creamy, scratchy, spiced and mainly as support.
It is also one of those rare (in my experience) fragrances that change a lot depending on the skin.
It reminds me of Miel de Bois and MKK mostly with a whiff of L'artisan's Al oudh. Is there cumin in this as well? Don't know yet. Very impressed. FBW.
My impression is the combination of aiona's and alfarom's reviews. This is a very nice fragrance but as far as I'm concerned what it does best is showcasing how good the fragrances of the past are, even now.
I'd pick montana parfum d'homme over this. With the price difference it's an even easier decision, but it's a nice fragrance nevertheless.
I'm surprised there are not more reviews of this one. Fans of sweet and modern stuff should be all over this. It has some parallels with body kouros and le male, but has a character of its own. It's not too complex a character, but nevertheless. It also happens to be a sweetened fragrance that is appropriate for a warm climate. The citrus and camphor provides balance, and choice of cardamom as a spice cools it even further. A sherbet-like vibe overall.
I actually enjoyed it for a while, despite being very cautious with vanilla especially when coupled with tonka. You could do much worse, lover of sweet aura with a limited wallet. I approve.
I don't write reviews much, but I felt the need to write something on this one.
I too, do not think skarb deserves getting of on the wrong foot. Somewhat shrill bitters like lovage and fennel do not find their way into fragrances much, and I like that sort. It is a bittersweet fragrance to my nose, heavier on the bitter side. The sweetness is not of the vanilla/syrup/cotton candy type.
Odysseusm's review is freakishly close to my opinion about the fragrance. I too like it. I also like the nose-singeing opening. So fresh it burns.
For various reasons, it reminds me of papyrus de ciane and tirrenico.
An excellent, classic fougere. Smells very natural, and comforting to me. No bells and whistles. Just a great, elegant and timeless fern.
Another 80's masculine with lots of ingredients. This is probably as dense as you can make a fragrance with "fresh" in mind, and I bet that was the case here. The opening makes your nose sizzle after it hits your face smack in the middle with a bar of aromatic and aldehydic soap.
It becomes considerably lighter and refined afterwards, with smoky, piney, herbal and floral notes hovering over the base which is somehow able to show its face beneath all the layers. It feels somewhat chilled as well.
I find the drydown dark and comfy, and not that high in volume.
All in all, Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui, is complex and pleasing in all stages and environments (maybe except in cold weather) to my nose. Great fragrance.
Philosykos is a very positive very happy fragrance. It reminds me more of white nectarines and white grapes. Crates of fruits which were picked just yesterday, complete with the smell of crates themselves. In the village market, with wasps going wild over the ripe fruits.
About the coconut thing, I think all fig/coconut smells resemble each other to some point, as most of the molecules in fig and coconut accords are the same.
Very pretty. Giacobetti does simple in such a way that it takes you places.
04th June, 2011 (last edited: 21st February, 2012)
If nothing oud cuir d'arabie is an olfactory experience, which I think every fragrance lover should try. It is probably a tricky one to like because of its heavy emphasis on certain notes, and I'm surprised to find neutral ratings.
I think of Oud Cuir D'arabie as a journey of leather, from the animal to the supple worn leather.
Curiously the first moments of the fragrance is the most animalic part. An oily fatty smelll together with half digested grass marks the slaughtering the original owner of the leather. Then the scent progresses to curing process. Then it becomes a brand new leather product, which gets broken down and worn as it fades. Honestly!
I also get the most realistic oud note I've seen in Montale fragrances from this one. Probably due to the combination of notes. After several full wearings I can say that there is saffron/safraleine in the leather accord even though it's not in the notes.
For me it's easily 50ml bottle worthy, but only because I love it and I don't care too much if it will suit an occasion to wear in. If you care too much if a scent will be appropriate, it may find less use for you. At any rate put this high in your to sample list.
31st May, 2011 (last edited: 15th July, 2011)
It begins very sweet and cloying, and frankly loses me right there and then. I like sweetness only when I think it's balanced.
Naturally there is bias, as I wouldn't mind over the top spices, resin or green fragrances that would choke other people. Sweetness is what makes me call for some citrus, bitterness, smoke or something contrasting.
This is in essence a gourmand musk, which sounds like a terrible idea to me. This combination also cost me Caron's 3me homme, which employs gourmand musk in its composition. I'm sure I'm in the minority here, but to my nose it is also very cloying and it almost physically blocks my nostrils.
Subjectivity is what matters here, so a thumbs down from me without regret.
This is almost physically painful. Just terrible.
To add to the confusion, I'll say that barbier des isles smells like a more cheerful yatagan to me. I don't think it's sweet at all. It's airy, dry and invigorating. I find no oud here, and my impression of this is very similar to Ody's.
It's a good scent, and I approve. Get while you can, I think it's discontinued.
03rd May, 2011 (last edited: 23rd May, 2011)
Yatagan isn't that scary! Its fame I'm afraid, prevents people who dislike powerhouses from sampling it, and may disappoint one who expect this to be a powerhouse. Apart from how it smells, there is nothing unique, or over the top about it. You could easily do ten sprays of this, and it won't be a problem for people who actually like the smell.
Yatagan is all about the artemisia for me. It reminds me of lichen covered chopped branches we used to burn in our fireplace. Astringent, bitter, woody, dry and aromatic. It smells amazing.
There may be a problem with it though. I think Yatagan demands charisma, and amplifies it tenfold. It may sound like a bad ad copy, but it is for a person who knows what they want. There can be no hesitation. There is nothing cute or charming about the aura yatagan paints. Like the sword itself, it may just sit there doing nothing except being awesome, but when unsheathed, you know heads would roll before it slides back in.
Sure anyone can wear anything they like but I suspect yatagan may clash with you if you are a in a gentle and impressionable state of mind.
30th April, 2011 (last edited: 09th June, 2011)
Smells like some 10 bucks/tola attars, with a little salt added in, with massive projection.
Add the premium pricing on top and you've got yourselves a thumbs down.
Simple and good quality with great marriage of notes for my taste.
Just an updated fougere with barely any sweetness, with the addition of spices.
The opening is somewhat odd, with a wet feel that projects wide. Lavender is very nice and natural smelling with a bit of green and sweetness in it. The whole scent dries out quickly and in two hours lavender barely lingers and it becomes a spicy mellow skin scent. It doesn't become arid, and somehow the spices come off refreshing. It goes sweeter as it dries down, but it's just a faint balsamic wood and tonka, thank god.
It's masculine all right, but definitely usable by the ladies.
I love barbershop type of fragrances, and RG is one of the most successful of the style. It's a cold fougere as I classify them myself, whereas say Azzaro is a warm one.
I should like this a lot, and I respect it for what it is but the raw egg note, which only diamondflame mentions here makes it impossible for me to like it, or inspect it a bit more.
Even if I was wearing fragrances just to project an image or to smell "good" to other people, I still couldn't bear smelling it. It has to be a thumbs down from me. I would never use this.
I rarely scrub and I scrubbed this off.
A sweet synthetic blob.
I think I threw up in my mouth a little.
I see Shamu has described it quite well.
It's dry, bright, airy, clean and masculine.
Consider this a workhorse rather than a show horse.
Good choice for an office / car scent to help you in your time of need, or as a casual wear scent. Probably not one you'd miss and reach for sitting in your home though.
Reminds me of Bleue d'issey, which strikes similar chords, but smells better, lives longer, and is not as linear.
For the price you could do much worse.
This is simply the best citrus masculine I've ever smelled. It's quite a concoction but it smells so simple and effortless. It moves between green, pale yellow and amber, peppered with specks of dots, slowly blooming. When you look for them it's relatively easy to discern the notes. Meaning it's not a blob, but impeccably balanced.
It opens with a green, leafy vetiver mixed with petitgrain and citrus juice and moves towards all directions. The spice mist and green vetiver holds the line from top to bottom, and forms the theme, as other notes come forth and back during the life of Uomo, which is not that short for this type of fragrance.
Fragrances it makes me think of are cartier declaration, cerruti 1881 and l'occitane vetyver for various reasons.
Top notch. 10/10
Monsieur de Givenchy is a pointless and redundant fragrance, only worthy of a single sampling. A touch of civet, a touch of verbena, a touch of moss some lemon. Beyond conservative, it's a complete lack of excitement, merely a whiff of lemon jiff that's gone in minutes.
Bracing and herbal aramis devin, sharp and handsome chanel pour monsieur, translucent and musky eau sauvage are all better choices. Then there are orange verte, eau du badian, citrus verbena, 1881, eau du sud and really countless other more recent options better in at least one regard. It's not even an improvement over 4711, which sells for peanuts.
Let it die.
This is not a feminine scent, in fact it's more masculine than many scents marketed to man nowadays. It begins with astringent and dry mature fig leaves, and the milky sap. It ends in vanilla and sweet woody base. The heart is what's the most interesting to me in this scent probably made to be a simple soliflore.
What I get is a scent that takes me to places. A scent I used to smell a lot when I was a kid. After swimming and splashing around in the river, I used to sunbathe on a small rock by the river pool, surrounded by all sorts of shrubs and herbs. Moist dirt, bitter and sweet smell of shrubbery and the faint smell of the tree leaves. Mulberry in particular. It's weird, and I wonder what makes that.
So, it's an earthy, sticky, slightly astringent slightly sweet scent inspired by figs that comes off to me as a shrubbery bouquet by the riverside. I love it.
Redundant, gutless, boring, unworthy of the bottle it's in.
I guess it could be for "young guys" Jaime mentions.
Not for this one.
Much better names could be given to ocean rain. I'd name it fleur de fougere fraicheur cuir, which may not be very creative, but gives an idea about the scent.
The first time I wore it, I got a dank moist fougere, with green very sheer flowers mixed in. Later on I got the leather, which has become my favorite note in the scent, and now I find it in the fragrance immediately.
There is substantial indole in it and I guess hedione as well. This results in a very high contrast, ghost jasmine to my nose. It's sheer but skanky. The leather is between a tan suede, and a live cattle. Animalic, smooth and beautiful. There is also some pee in it, which I guess is civet. The rest is lush foliage, rotten watercolor flowers and fruits. It may not sound appealing but to me it is.
To me, it's a summer in deep country, with woods, flowers, wool/tweed overalls and livestock.
The notes are, jasmine, leather, green notes, citrus, citric & indolic rose, forest. Calone is not emphasized and it rather provides a lifting breeze, and a fruitiness that goes great with the floral part.
09th February, 2011 (last edited: 04th July, 2011)
The bottle color and shape is appropriate. This is a bomb-astic green aromatic soap. Comparison with mugler cologne makes sense. This can be considered an earlier version of it. Except with class, gravitas and complexity. While mugler is sparse, this is loaded, but doesn't feel dense at all.
An outdoor bathroom made of pine timber, running water, white soap, a brisk spring breeze. It's not groundbreaking, but it doesn't have to be. Solid.
09th February, 2011 (last edited: 19th April, 2011)
An updated version of loewe's esencia. Worse in every aspect except the top, which is way more friendly and snappy. The notes are sparser, not nearly as complicated and it doesn't really last. Maybe this is more relevant today? I don't know but I'd pick esencia over this any day. Still, not bad.
I haven't tried Creed's Erolfa, about which I hear lots of good things and amongst all the aquatics I have tried to date, Kenzo PH is untouchable. It is an excellent blend with the sum much greater than its parts. It reminds me of japanese sumi-e paintings. It can be appreciated by people on different levels. It's strong, bold and it follows a clear objective. Layers of tones work towards a perfect combination.
The nature of the scent doesn't change directions that much but rather it comes and goes in actual waves, all slightly different from each other. The glass bottle pictured here is very elegant and fits perfectly to the scent. Probably the only aquatic that works very well on mature guys on a winter night. A great and underrated classic.
Perfect classic barbershop fragrance.
It's not in the notes but there is also a gentle tobacco going on with the scent.
There are already great reviews of it, I'm only a statistic here.
27th April, 2010 (last edited: 03rd June, 2011)
I don't really get the Obsession obsession.
The most interesting thing about it is the amber, and honestly, it's spot on the cheapest amber we had in the attar/herbalist I used to work in as a kid.
Redundant and cloying. Not good enough.
I used two bottles, amounting to 150 ml of this years ago.
I remember it having a very nice refreshing and interesting opening.
I used to carry a small atomizer with me to reapply it, to smell it again, and eventually my clothes would smell for days, but not in a good way. So, there is longevity, but not where it counts for me.
I haven't really tried it again for a long time, maybe now it really does go forever.