Spicy! CLOVES!!! Cinnamon.
I still have personal uncertainties about this one. I think it inoffensive and after an hour it is less edgy. At present, it fits well as a jeans/flannel or dobby shirt/wide plain leather belt/chukka or field shoe scent.
I don't smell it a lot on others but I would not use this as a signature scent.
I've been wearing this as THE scent of choice for over 36 years. I've occaisionally had thoughts that it has changed slightly in that time, but I'm not so sure about that now. It may be me and my body chemistry that has changed instead. I've not found anything that does as well on me as this one. I find it spicy oriental, starting out fresh, spicy complex and then mellowing out slowly over a day or evening to simpler and less spicy, always remaining pleasant. I don't believe it to be purely a middle age/mature male scent. Another reviewer indicated little/no sillage, but my experience is that it has some that is gentle and not overbearing. With me, the sillage tends to pick up a little with skin warmth and humidity, and the modest sillage and slow decrease in complexity seems a perfect accompaniment to a warming romantic encounter. For 36 years, it has always evoked a very positive response from girlfriends/women who remember it vividly and unique to me. They have told me later it has left a very pleasant memorable scent of me on throws and sofa pillows.
On me this starts out strong, leathery with a floral (I think) je ne sais qoi over a background of vanilla/amber and then mellows out over time. There's an early soap hint that disappears very quickly at the beginning. If the soap hint didn't disappear very quickly, I wouldn't like this scent. In my experience, the je ne sais quoi ratchets back and the vanilla/amber is balanced with the leather in about 2-5 hours. On me, the vanilla/amber dominates after 8-12 hours. Overall, a very pleasant experience. The 2-12 hours has a sweetness but not cloying.
I normally have a difficult time finding scents because my skin chemistry is not kind with many of the common or popular ones. Not so with this one.
I think it has a definite sillage at the beginning that calms down in an hour or two. For me, skin warming and skin humidity brings it immediately back to an earlier life in its wear. I think it should be used very sparingly and I put it on about 1/2 to 1hr or more before being with others.
I don't find it as variable or unpredicable as randumbsmellyguy.
For me this is a pleasant, inexpensive informal scent, pleasant affordable and wearable. However, for special occaisions and signature, it's always and forever Equipage (Hermes).