Perfume Reviews

Reviews by WildThingy

Total Reviews: 32

Monsieur de Givenchy by Givenchy

(Vintage) An affable cologne for men. Citric yet mild in the start it develops some transparent rosy aspects in the middle part. The dry down is woodsy and soft too.

For me it resembles the more contemporary Sartorial of Pehaligon's. Less complex than that it transports the general idea perfectly.A well made dandy-ish fragrance. Dandy it is in being distinctively formal, unpretentious, practical yet classy. No fuss, just right.
15th February, 2012

Green Water by Jacques Fath

A great refreshing green/musky scent. Not too rich, just right. It doesn't pretend to be a bold luxury product, it is, comparable to a light grassy Chablis. The drydown is soft and remains multifaceted.
01st February, 2012

S-Perfume Jet Scent Remix 2.0 by S-Perfume

This idea isn't that new. Jovan had Musk For Man and the like ages before. While the Jovan appears to be a bit edgy today, the S-perfume is smooth, easy going. No offenses to be expected, a very tame perfume, which by my experience wouldn't be noticed from a distance.
01st February, 2012
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100% Love by S-Perfume

The first 3..5 wearings are the most interesting ones. Eventually I got used to the rancid smell that draw interest in the first place. Like cheese or smelly feet. Now as I'm more trained to separate 'notes' I don't experience this effect any more. The fragrance got its place in the archive.
Chocolate and rose and woods and incense in a dry blend that decidedly is pleasing, if not sexy. I would love to smell it on a woman. It's youthful, joyful. Once I smell it unexpectedly I will be slap happy.
01st February, 2012

Skarb by Humiecki & Graef

Thumbs up - because it is not significantly worse than others. Currently the cost of ownership is with all due respect impossible.

To my laymans nose the perfumer has discovered the aroma chemical 'helional'. By accident I have a vial of that at my home. It is described as being new mown hay, ozone, fresh, melon, herbaceous, watery, floral. Luca Turin smells a sucked silverspoon.
In short this chemical has a very special, wide spread odorous signature, centered somehow to the smell of early summer in Western Europe.

I agree with Alfarom, that there is a vibe similar to a component in Byredo M/Mink.And I'm pretty sure this is the helional. Once I used it in a too high dose while experimenting and developed a nausea against it.

Helional is very tenacious, and so Skarbs backbone of stands still. All the various aspects of the chemical are to my taste masterfully blended with other, maybe even natural ingredients. There is incense, chamomille, herbs and all. Only that - by these ingredients - different aspects of the helional are once covered, others emphazised depending on the alterations in relative concentrations with time (because the chemicals evaporate slowly with different rates). I really do get the picture of a fragrance which is described as being an analogue to a star to replace of the classic top to base shift.

I'm afraid this sounds more revolutionary than it is. Many perfumes are centered on sole aroma chemicals these days. At least to me the technical quality of Skarb seems to be outstanding, but not necessary stellar (pun intended).

The overall 'feel' of this scent reminds me of Polish gherkins. In Poland these are related to familarity, 'home' if not to rephrase the ad copy of H&G. The taste of this kind of pickles is dairy sour from lactonic fermentation, herbaceous from dill and bay leaves, woody from mostard seed, watery and melon-y from the cucumber itself. I think, if the abstraction the ad copy speaks of, to create a scent true to a certain feeling, true to a mans emotion, the reminder to mothers ghurkins is a tremendous joke.

thumbs up for technical skill, same for the idea, but two caveats:

- the helional gets more and more naked while the fragrance dries down, rendering it pretty much one dimensional after several hours or so

- the price is not justified
14th January, 2012

Insensé Ultramarine by Givenchy

Thumbs down particularly for the dry down. It manages to thrill for hours like mint. Only stronger. On me it has an eye watering effect.

The top is pretty much chemical. I assume by direct comparison to the raw material that Ultramarines galbanum is rendered by the use of Givaudans Pharaone. To some degree I enjoy chemical smells a lot. I appreciate how the perfumer covers the aggressive off notes of Pharaone and on the other side stretches the pineapple peel / tobacco aspect. This effort results in a wide panoramic olfactory sensation. Of course is doesn't resemble galbanum as it is known from Balmains Vent Vert for instance. The synthetic/chemical origin of the reminder to galbanum is obvious and it depends on Your taste if You like such. I do!

The middle notes chime in after about 10 minutes. For further 20 minutes some floral aspects reveal themselves under the Pharaone. The aldehydes are kept weak, the floral bloom is indicated by hydroxicitronellal, as known from linden blossom, lilly of the valley and other.

The basic structure of this Ultramarine is build up from various generic 'male' chemicals. Iso E Super, calone, vetiveryl acetate in huge doses.

If it had not the unbearable aggressive 'fresh' dry down, one could enjoy the weird Pharaone top note from time to time. But given the long lasting spoiler I recommend to carefully sample it before a purchase. It has nothing to do with the famous Insense.

12th January, 2012

L'Anonyme ou OP-1475-A by A Lab on Fire

The referring perfume L’Anonyme starts with a soft but interesting musky citrus/aldehyde-accord, very much like an easy, low end laundry detergent would do. Within a short while, maybe about 5 minutes the geranium chimes in. The scent feels even more faint, transparent due to that, despite this strong, quite familiar, yet singular flourish note. The clean musky, aldehydic accord has all gone then. An hour later the woody base takes over. It matches the geranium perfectly and for a while the two impressions switch back and forth. The rare whiffs of remaining geranium provide a pleasant reminder to soap (geraniol as a component of artificial rose). The base reminds me of L’Artisans Timbuktu. Tangy, woody, a bit sweet – my association is licorice, but not the well known black sap, but the raw wood itself. In the very end after about 5 hours a whiff of bone dry clean musk comes along. During its development the fragrance remains clearly perceptable to me, the wearer. But it nevers seems to be loud, just right. Sillage and or projection have not been tested. Results vary anyway, so try it by Your own.

Unisex, all buttons hit, perfectly executed. Less sweet than Timbuktu. Unique otherwise by the favorable addition of that lovely geranium. Another comparison could be Bond #9 – New York Oud. Too much rose, to loud, yet bland.

For me L’Anonyme is a worthwhile scent to have. It is cheap to own. Alas, besides the good quality I’m not fond of this style of a woody drydown. Timbuktu tended towards unpleasant for me. This one is by far more bearable. I'll use it occasionally, or better let use.

25th May, 2011

APOM pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

A bit boring. To me it feels like a combination of a calone/vetiveryl driven 'aquatic' fresh idea in the middle notes and a 'balsamic' base. The top relies on the contrast and seems luxurious, refined and all. Alas, to my nose it decomposed after an hour, while the aquatic thing radiates too much to be pleasent. Technically it may be a more than just o/k frag - at least for the first 40minutes. But it doesn't live up the price, the promised exclusivity and hence the generated expectations. Generic bourgeouis - won't come back to it. Like to enjoy ELdOs Nombril Immense instead for a sixth of the price.
07th May, 2011

Caldey Island Lavender by Caldey Abbey Perfumes

Again - high expectations, lowered thumbs. The musk of mine (2010, full bottle) is way to strong. The Lavender is gone within about 30 minutes when the musk takes over. As reported by Luca Turin the musk is exaltolide. Its odor strength varies from individual to individual and too with every person by time. That has been scientifically approved.

I personally don't like exaltolide. It is strong, dirty and long lasting. Frequent reapplications of CL as to refresh the lavender part will eventually lead to a guy who thinks of himself in "blue heaven". His surrounding may think of a muskrat instead. On the other hand, a dirty lavender - if You like to feel as a monk from time to time - why not?

24th April, 2011

Vetiver by Etro

This one is humble but very good. First I bought it while searching for that "green" in vetiver. It disapointed, I sold it for cheap. Then after "fresh" vetivers disapointed me much more, reminding me of dismal places, not so well serviced mens rooms. The backslash of ordinary, overused "fresh".

Etros Vetiver is different. It goes for mildly tickling rooty, smokey, earthy. It feels plain, decent and further by its obvious quality projects refined understatement. The drydown remains multifaceted and with vetiver this is a darn good thing. When even the well balanced Givenchy Vetyver might become a bit bold in its nuttyness, the Etro still feels light and comfortable. It could be a sibling if Vetiver Extreme by Malle, but it is the elder brother, quiet and effective. Alas, it is costly.

The former Eau De Cologne is much preferred over the EDT concentration. The latter is too long lasting and sports some irritating citric fresh top notes.
11th April, 2011

Love In White by Creed

I know the power of prejudice. I tried LIW once. It is easy to bash a thing that has been considered an archetypical failure in Turin/Sachez Guide. Love In White completely lived up to the expectations.

My personal first impression was: O/k, is is not so bad! Maybe it has to develop on skin. The second was: uups!

Dense as marble, and as odorless as that. Maybe I suffered from fatigue. Does it really smell good? I will not come back to it.

edit: Alas, I have to come back to it. I read the advertising. LIW is praised for being used by two "first ladies", the Empire State Building was enlightend all in white to welcome Love In White to the world in 2005. This effort to make it a top notch choice is seconded by a price tag that may seem offending - 140 bucks for a humble amount of 1oz EDP is something. As if that were not enough the ad explains, that Love In White refers to Mr. Creeds love in sailing - white sails, You know. Mr Creed is an autocratic "master perfumer", and so LIW has to be a masterpiece. But - still people have a choice. According to Luca Turin, I really would prefer to keep the dirt after sleeping two weeks in the woods, if the alernative would be a shampoo scented by LIW. And that only for the style of it ...
26th March, 2011 (last edited: 12th April, 2011)

Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur

O/k, thumbs down is a crass verdict. It reflects the expectations. These were high due to former reviews, at least Luca Turins.

My feeling is that the composition isn't well balanced. The fresh, close to icey woody part is quite unique. But the fragrances heart appears to be too sweet. The parallel of fresh/woody and honey sweet doesn't appeal to me. I think this one lives up to contemporary fashion, and that it does more than just well.

How does it compare to Etat Libre d'Orange Nombril Immense, which is said to be a blatant copy of Timbuktu (again, Turin)? I like NI better, and that by some margin. NI is more relaxing, smooth, and on my level of olfactory intelligence better balanced and refined. NI blows the same vibe with less of overt suspense, lacking that icey thing.
26th March, 2011 (last edited: 04th April, 2011)

Boss Orange Man by Hugo Boss

I simply don't like these alike fragrances that are so common these days. It is the same as Blue Of Chanel, but orange. I think nobody should need such.

The "notes" won't tell You that the vibe, the feel of this is as generic as can be. The infamos fresh plus something. Impossible for a perfume addict to own.
26th March, 2011
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Insensé by Givenchy

Such a flirty, warm, manly scent. Merges perfectly with my natural body odor. I backed up twice.
26th March, 2011

Jovan Musk for Men by Jovan

Not at all complicated. The top is a bit sharp, as it should be with a cologne. After the first seconds is mellows down to a fresh, slightly adstringent fruity smell without any sweetness. The heart lingers for hours between that fruit and a very dry musk, eventually dries down to wood and musk. Ever it is soft and humble, no offenses. Even in the heat of strong bodyly engagement it remains a shy dry compagnion.

If it wasn't that cheap and some parts of it were a tad more complex - it would be totally different. I'm indifferent whether or not this simplicity is some kind of art. I like it more the more often I use it! One of the best casuals I know, ideal for tennis, Chandler Burr!
25th March, 2011

1969 Parfum de Révolte by Histoires de Parfums

Like it! But - the top notes do not match the heart- and basenotes to well. There's some kind of disharmony. The freshness feels - just for a second - synthetic. Then at a sudden the smell broadens into a sensual vibe of lush components in chorus. Patchouli, white chocolate, coffee, may be cardboard, the fragrance is true to its "notes". To my nose it sweetens during drydown, and as every scent has to, simplifies. Not so far as that could distract the pleasure of it. Alas, that's not so common.

<edit> After a row of enthusiastic wearings...</edit>

btw: I don't feel to impressed by the offending (?) name. A revolt that made it into perfume must for sure have been quite "teeny" (as far as my dictionary holds). If You are after a realistic smell of that revolt - don't wash ... it won't kill You.

<edit>Even when serverly overapplied ...</edit>

last edit: just try, a great finding
24th March, 2011 (last edited: 14th May, 2011)

New York Oud by Bond No. 9

Double thumbs down. This is not Oud, but a concoction of things one might consider approriate for a "luxury" soap: rose, rose, rose, aldehydes etc. No wood, no complexity (to my nose), no drydown but just an other soapy scent in a row of soapy scents. I've been there, 9 Bond Street, Manhattan, New York City, NY. Besides their about 20+ perfumes they sell tea in the same shop - that's an experience.
14th March, 2011

Fat Electrician by Etat Libre d'Orange

Best vetiver to me. It avoids the one dimensional marine note typical to vetiver in the drydown. In that is is as good as Givenchys Vetyver. But the latter puts to much nuts, milky aldehydes etc in, shifting it to the bold side. The ELdO seems to be light handed, the oppoponax tickles the nose just right. The Fat Electrician rearranges known components of perfumery and achieves a - to me - new effect. I would like it less sweet, though.
06th March, 2011

Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d'Orange

A bit kinky, some jasmine, some tar, some tobacco. It is pleasing and disturbing the same time. Never smelled it on a smoker, that would be fun! On the long run, say over hours the scent lacks development. But, the overall impression remains that it is some peculiar, well done piece of perfumery. I really would like to smell it more often on women, just for the fun of it.
06th March, 2011

Nombril Immense by Etat Libre d'Orange

A nice clean parchouli, a bit on the sweet side as so many ELdOs. It persists until the next morning when applied in the evening. What remains is some kind of camphorous freshness which, in contrast to the former tad of sweetness is a welcome hello to a stranger. I would not try to analyse the scent further, it is soft, smooth calming down the senses but still aromatic enough to remain in a gently blurred focus of interest.

I personally like this alternative to spicey or leathery vanillas, including Dzing!, Bulgari Black a lot. What on their side always seemed to be a disturbance of the real thing, the vanilla, here in NI, comprsing an unearthy patchouli it is the natural balance between soft and angular. It connects perfectly to the smell of Your own skin. Again a fragrance from ELdO is true to it's name.
06th March, 2011

Black Afgano by Nasomatto

I tried it once while searching something substantial. The comparison was Lubin-Idole, Creed-(??Tobacco??), Caron-Yatagan, Caron-3rd Man. The Yatagan was to dry to my nose. To much of sharp smokey woods. The Idole realized that certain smooth feel in the first place. While pleasant in the first moment the further development, better to say, the missing development became boring. Nothing for the nose to discover.

The Black Afgano replicated that smooth velvety smell. It is more a feel than a smell actually. Then I decided on the spot that I had enough of it. I analyzed its components and not at least a possible resemblance to dope. There is some patchouly, some woodsy anything maybe. Any potential complication - that would for sure have been appreciated - was sucked down by that before mentioned velvet. Imagine wearing velvet trousers but with the soft side inward. First the feel is soft and luxurious. But after a very short while it smothers, irritating the feel of one selves skin. What happens on the long run would depend on a persons attitude. It will either make the wearer rebellious or apathetic.

I'm rebellious. So it's a big thumbs down. Besides having really nothing to do with the smell of dope. The presentation in the exaggerated bottles adds to the olfactory impression. It is exclusive price wise, not by taste.
18th January, 2011

Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange

You should read the scoop. It is not meant to shock with the smell of (decomposing) semen or blood. It is not meant to smell of those substances nor does it smell as them.

Consider Guerlians Jicky/Mitsouko/Shalimar. All three are connected to an individual love story. Of course each smell doesn't evoke any particular story at all. But, the associated romantics - which has been the most erotic statement allowed back then - push sells somehow. Secretion Magnifiques derides such associations by a hyperbole. The scoop speaks of what is considered erotic today: sex! Not by replicating the smells of sexual activities but more abstract it is made to replicate the mouthwatering suspense: will IT happen NOW? As a sexual active person I know what is meant by this ...

Besides of its insofar quite intelligent outfit it smells good. After an overly fresh start reminiscent of toilet cleaner branded "ocean breeze" it calms down to wet grass speckled with white apples. Some of them rotting - it's a Frech perfume, for sure. The dry down shows some woody, milky but slightly astringent notes like raw chestnut.

As far as people don't know they like it! I wore it on an inner European flight of 4 hours without any complaint. My tester I had with me broke and spilled down the knapsack. No offense at all! Alas, the smell made my GF tremendously hungry for some days, manly chocolate. Go figure, it has something to it. To bash it for its scoop and name neglects an interesting perfume, like judging books by their covers.
17th January, 2011

Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange

As far as a perfume can be rated at all, this should be a thumbs up. The center stage is safraleine, an aromachemical of a certain smell between rubber, plastic and is in consequence reminiscent of suede. For short TOF is a leather scent using safraleine. It is tamed by soapy aldehydes, may be orris too while still being the star of the show.

From my experience the safraleine is a bit to much in the first place, but one may get used to it. Later on after several wearings the subtleties of TOF reveal themselves. Then TOF is just an other leather oriented male scent. At least it is a matter of taste whether or not someone likes TOF. It is as special as Knize Ten or Cuir De Russe. It comprises a new molecule to evoke leather. It combines it overtly with synthetic flowers - the aldehydes. I really do prefer it over KT, but not much. If I would not have KT already TOF would be it.
09th January, 2011

Encens & Bubblegum by Etat Libre d'Orange

Like it! The raspy aldehydes combine well with the sweet incense. It is an unusual strong fragrance to me. Nearly unbearable for a male.
It can be worn with dark and neutral cloths, as to contrast the scents vivid expression. But it is a matter of taste.

An other issue could be the long lasting somewhat boring dry down. Alas, the fragrance is true to its name in that it might become as boring as an old chewing gum (fruity kind) or a catholic mess. It would have been a more homey pet with a less sweat tail. Nontheless, something new I'm fond of.
11th October, 2010

Voyage d'Hermès by Hermès

Sorry, induces headache immediatly. It is way to "fresh,transparent", maybe laden with "woody amber" to much. I can't stand it. The start is quite promising, as with the Jardin series. But it shares with all that fresh cold screetchy drydow that is just disgusting. Compare good old Mitsouko against it, and You'll see that olfactory impression is a matter of heart. While the latter is pleasent, comforting and the same time engaging, Voyage screems something I won't understand even if I could despite the noise. Horrable drydown with short lived top notes. Why?

18th August, 2010

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

Compared to classic stuff as Jicky this is plain crap. Orange peel on top, Vetiver plus screechy woody amber. Just a not to complicated starting accord and then after an hour or so endlessly fresh nondescript screem. Hideous all around.
18th August, 2010

Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermès

The top is quite interesting, light, mysterious. After half an hour the "woody amber" comes in and cries it's heart out endlessly. A new direction that I don't appreciate. Words fail me.
18th August, 2010

Métal by Paco Rabanne

Great stuff in comparison to contemporary concoctions. I tend to second the Turin/Sanchez description. The start envelopes some white flowers - muguet including homeopathic doses of hydroxycitronellal. Interesting on its own, a very brief introduction to time in perfumery.
Then a hissy, nearly scentless but even the more present green comes up. It is accompanied by a warm but light woody aroma that fits to a female body as smooth as skin.

Wearing the fragrance partly on cloths, example given sprayed under the shirt would highlightens the hissy green to much for my taste.
16th August, 2010

Missoni (2006 version) by Missoni

Chocolate is flowers - the idea is plausible to my olfactory apparatus from the first whiff. Only that the one is by far more nutritious than the other. To prevent from that the fragrance is bone dry. The drydone envelopes some minty aspects. That compares to Patchouli Patch of L'Artisan Parfumeur, which in the same way lightens up towards the base.

All in all the Missoni is an "intelligent" perfume. Something new at least (to me). But, alas, I don't get that caleidoscopic sensations which made Luca Turin stock this up to have it by hand for his lifetime.

For my very personal taste the overall feel of it is a bit to light. I argue I would have appreciated some sweetness. On the other hand that wouldn't help against a repelling screechy effect just behind my forehead. The same with Feu D'Issey. Is it a "woody amber"? Both, Feu D'Issey and the eponymous Missoni gave Turin a kind of super effect of ever changing scents, the one caleidoscopic, the other radiating its various sensations with the speed of light.

I couldn't get used to this unpleasent facet with both by now. So, give it a try, but try it first.
07th August, 2010

Patchouli Patch by L'Artisan Parfumeur

As to avoid crude marketing poetics, this scent is about dry, herbal. The basenotes show some gentle sweetness, but top to middle woody, herbacious accords dominate the overall impression. Bitterness is in sight, but still out of reach, but not too far. As has been mentioned before the drydown as a paradox shows to be the most lubricated, easy going, slightly fresh part.

This fragrance complements Etat Libre D'Orange's Nombril Immense and Eloge Du Traitre. It leans towards sensuality as the former, but could be taken as earnest - with a wink of the eye too - as the latter. But reverse. Austerity relaxes into plush sensuality That makes the more sense when grown-up dating comes into mind ... schedule wise.

PP avoids the heavy patchouli pattern, it avoids to develop into a to sweet oriental direction, it is dense, dry and feels complete. For me personally it fits the gap between the both abovementioned ELDOs perfectly. I wouldn't have bought it without the two beside. To appreciate it's qualities it could take several full wearings. That calls for a bigger sample, to buy unsniffed isn't recommended. To special, really!
04th August, 2010