For me this is a shy and rather everyday sister of Coco Mademoiselle; it is smooth, pinky feel in the beginning. The middle notes fade to make way to the loud daffodil - which is playful, cheerful, this is why I like how it makes me feel in cold weather. The drydown is an imprecise mixture that loses the daffodil and fades quickly. Still, the lasting power is somewhere over 4 hours.
I bought it unsniffed and I have been wearing it for three days now, but the first impression that still hovers in my mind is that it is such a disappointment. I expected this to be a true (sweetish, flowery, heavy/heady) oriental (like Coco which I truly love)- and I figure it could only because of the excessive presence of spices( especially the black pepper and myrrh).
The flowers in this are really shy and few, thus the coldness, sharpness and harshness of this perfume.The connection to the name is made via the untouchablity feeling it creates - this is a peculiar perfume to be worn by some (I can fully understand why some reviewers mentioned gothic cathedrals, darkness, solitude). It still challenges me to find its beauty. It is similar to Shalimar, but to the point that both share incense - but in Parfum Sacre (on me at least) it is present throughout all the stages, while in Shalimar the vanilla and flowers make it more warm and round. It is a peculiar perfume in which the rose and jasmine are so well used that one can not tell their obvious presence.
I guess it takes some time to fully understand, appreciate and wear it accordingly in contrast to the many modern sugary concoctions. On my skin (which loves Shalimar, Coco, Absolu, Organza, Mitsouko and other true stars) at all stages it smells coldish, harsh in an abrasive sense. The middle notes make way for a powdery feel, while the drydown is a true oriental, but by this time it is really hard to detect on the skin. If it had a longer life then the true oriental would have had a say in this - and in my opinion here is where it loses some ground to other orientals which I prefer much more. I love NU (from Yves Saint Laurent) - which uses many spices, but even that was a lot warmer and it had more spices, so I do not understand.
I have the 3.3 oz/100ml EDP bottle, but this is not as long-lasting as other EDPs (the bottle reads an 87% concentration) which makes this EDP last only 4 maximum 5 hours on my skin (while Absolu lasts for 8 hours in the same edp concentration). This was a surprise too from Caron.
I will surely reconsider buying other Carons, especially unsniffed, despite the sparkling and praising reviews (I was considering Nuit de Noel, Montaigne, Bellodgia and Pour une Femme), but I will rather invest in something else more feminine and less sharp (as the EDPs of other companies last for 6-9 hours while these last only for 4).
16th September, 2011 (last edited: 30th October, 2011)
Absolu is not really a mirror to its name, but it is a special fragrance that, thank Goodness, walks boldly away from all the over-sweet orientals available now. Instead, this is like rich dark, addictive molasses. It has a bit of sweetness to it, enough to make it warm, feminine, dark, smoky, intense, without being an obviously available (read easy to encounter on others) scent. The rich resinous smell is addictive for me - I love the smell as it says 'I'm not easy to find, I'm not everywhere, I'm not common'. I love to wear it, and seemingly so so the others around me. I bought it expecting something else, the classical vanilla--excessively sweet-drowned oriental fragrance, but am I glad it was not that - it is a tiny bit resinous and bitterish, but this is what makes it stand apart. I do like Kenzo-Jungle Elephant, D&G-The One, Dior-Dune, Chanel-Allure (to mention a few I thought this resembled according to reviews), but I far more love Absolu for its darkness, richness and distinctiveness. I am glad I have it, I enjoy it and I shall but it again and again.
14th August, 2011 (last edited: 21st August, 2011)
My encounter with Moonwind was through its fossil (i.e. an old bottle my mother had in the early eighties). The tall dark blue bottle fascinated me. It had a faint smell and I always wanted to try it myself. I finally managed to find two vintage Cologne bottles on ebay and I now have it. The scent does live up to its name - it is coldish, blueish, windy. It is not a sporty fragrance in my view, but an elegant, class one. I would say it is suitable for summer evenings, long walks in the breezy atmosphere right before sunset. If it were available in edp it would be a splendour, unfortunately only the eau de cologne is available. I thought that being an Avon product it were more easily available, but I was wrong. They should relaunch this fragrance and easily eliminate some boring, candy-florals they market nowadays.